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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 11:55:43 +1000
From: m.belik@uws.edu.au (Miroslav Belik)
Subject: A question about the Windscreen
Hi all
I sent this same post to the general LRO list but got no replies. Maybe you
guys can help me.
After taking my LR onto some rough roads the windsreen has somehow come
loose and constantly shakes. IS there a way to fix this problem on a series 3.
I have another question. Some of you may remember that I asked for a lot of
advice on how to take out and put in a gear box. Well I thought that I have
had done everything correctly. Now, every now and then the release bearning
makes noise. I changed the bearing and greased it well. Anyone know why this
has happened? Can something be done without taking the GB out again and can
this problem cause any type of damage to the clutch --- or to anything else
for that matter.
Thanks in advance
Mirek
SIII Stage 1 1982 3.9D
PS Daryl do you have a picture of your stage 1 on the net somewhere. I would
like to have a look to see what one in a good state looks like. Mine is
getting there but very very slowly
Miroslav Belik Email: M.Belik@UWS.EDU.AU
UWS, Macarthur Phone: 018-028-708 or 61 2 823 9445
P.O. Box 555 FAX: 61 46 203025
Campbelltown, 2560
NSW
Australia.
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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 15:15:09 +1300
From: Chris Clifton <chris.clifton@cca.co.nz>
Subject: Importing from Australia to NZ
Anyone have any experience of importing those oh-so-much-cheaper
Australian vehicles to Godzone?
I don't mind paying a good dealer/exporter to do the job properly, but I
guess I'd better find out about import duties too.
--
Chris Clifton Voice +644 586 7863
Clifton & Clifton Associates Mobile 025 452 142
PO Box 31-364 Fax +644 586 1620
Lower Hutt email chris.clifton@cca.co.nz
New Zealand
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From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: A question about the Windscreen
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 13:36:11 +1030 (CDT)
Miroslav writes:
> After taking my LR onto some rough roads the windsreen has somehow come
> loose and constantly shakes. IS there a way to fix this problem on a series 3.
Welcome to the station wagon club... (at a guess any way) or at least
the 109 club
I'm assuming that you mean the glass so..
The "traditional" fix, (crude but effective) is to remove the screen and
refit it with copious amounts of *neutral cure* silicone
a similar approach applies to the whole assy. Like I say it probably
isnt the proper way but it works
> makes noise. I changed the bearing and greased it well. Anyone know why this
> has happened? Can something be done without taking the GB out again and can
> this problem cause any type of damage to the clutch --- or to anything else
> for that matter.
Dont know the cause mine does it occasionally too, usually first thing
in the morning. cant do much except drop the box and replace the thrust
bearing. At a guess the only real problem is for the bearing, it is
possible to wear the back of the pressure plate spring fingers if the
thrust bearing goes completely but the noise would drive you mad before
> PS Daryl do you have a picture of your stage 1 on the net somewhere. I would
> like to have a look to see what one in a good state looks like. Mine is
Ha ha Ha choke ROFL, shirley you must be joking... good, I wish...
Oh Ok I confess we polished the front guards in 1988, still havent
finished the rest of the job, and we did scrub the mould off of the roof
two years ago...
Nothing on the net of mine but lloyd alison has a piccy of his on his
site at Monash as has eric zipkin (US).
There are a couple of mine in LRW september 95 ISTR Front cover with
"Dust Devils" and the back end of a very muddy stage 1, also a front 1/4
shot in LRO this year (i forget which month) article on the blinman
jamboree, head line something about the "outback".
cheers and thanks for asking, kinda made my day
--
Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 16:13:53 +1100
From: haystack@netspace.net.au (Doug McPherson)
Subject: Reusable air filters
Hi all,
I've just pulled the air filter out of the 110, and discovered its not a
throw away paper one as I was expecting, but a yellow and green foam one.
I understand these are washable and re-oilable. What to wash it in and
re-oil it with ? Anyone know what brand the yellow and green ones are ?
What's the general consensus on these filters ? Better than the paper ones
? How long should they last ? How to tell when the 'use-by' date has been
reached?
Any comments appreciated,
Doug.
------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 20:50:00 +1100
From: "Ian.J.Lock" <ilock@m150.aone.net.au>
Subject: Gearbox Question
Hi all,
Can anyone explain why, in my series 2a, that when in third gear &
going downhill (usually with foot off off the throttle) that it jumps out of
gear back into neutral. Holding the gearchange lever provides insufficient
pressure to hold it in gear,when this occurs. No problems whatsoever when
going uphill.
Regards
Ian
Series 2a 109 tray, with Holden 186, & toyota diffs & hubs & several water
leaks in the cab that seem to resist all attempts to rectify.
------------------------------
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From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Gearbox Question
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 08:44:12 +1030 (CDT)
> Can anyone explain why, in my series 2a, that when in third gear &
> going downhill (usually with foot off off the throttle) that it jumps out of
> gear back into neutral. Holding the gearchange lever provides insufficient
> pressure to hold it in gear,when this occurs. No problems whatsoever when
> going uphill.
Ian this is typical of a broken/burnt/worn bush in the gearbox. sorry its
pre coffee and I cant recall its exact description, but there is a largish
bronze bush in the third gear assy somewhere, (two possible variants a two
piece and a 1 piece, make sure you get the correct one when you replace it
:-(). By the time the symptoms you describe come along they are all two
or more piece, often well burnt into the gear with colateral (sp) damage
to the shaft (well mine was bright blue anyway)
The proper thing to do is replace the bush ,(basically a gearbox rebuild
will suffice). it is of course possible to rig up a wire hook to hold
the lever in third, not that I'd know anything about this of course...
sorry to be the bearer of bad news
--
Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)
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From: bigbear@hutch.com.au
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 12:47:17 +1000
Subject: [Fwd: Gearbox Question]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Ian,
I've had the same problem in my S2A, but in 4th gear. After trying the
obvious and renewing the ball bearings and springs used to lock the
selector shafts in place, and failing to fix, I pulled the gearbox down.
There are small leaf springs in the synchromesh cone that were broken.
This allowed the main shaft to flop around in 4th gear (Direct) with
result of it popping out on downhill overrun. It was a two hand job to
hold it in too!
I never had it throw out of 3rd but basically, any play in main or lay
shaft could cause your problem.
Regards,
Michael McKinnon
--------------23172EF8235C
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Hi all,
Can anyone explain why, in my series 2a, that when in third gear &
going downhill (usually with foot off off the throttle) that it jumps out of
gear back into neutral. Holding the gearchange lever provides insufficient
pressure to hold it in gear,when this occurs. No problems whatsoever when
going uphill.
Regards
Ian
Series 2a 109 tray, with Holden 186, & toyota diffs & hubs & several water
leaks in the cab that seem to resist all attempts to rectify.
--------------23172EF8235C--
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From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Reusable air filters
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 96 17:54:00 EST
Hmm, depends on the brand. On the Finer Filter instructions, FF they
specifically state to clean them in mineral turpentine NOT other solvents
like petrol or kerosene. I had some in my RR that had started to break up.
I saw the FF guy at the Sydney 4WD show and he replaced them on the spot.
Excellent customer service. A few days later he called me and told me that
the damage was caused by cleaning in kero or petrol (I bought the car a few
weeks before). I asked for an invoice so I could pay for the filters but
they said the replacements we on the house.
Like I said - great customer service.
Ron (usual disclaimers)
'83 RR (for sale)
'87 RR
----------
From: haystack@netspace.net.au
Subject: Reusable air filters
Date: Tuesday, 3 December 1996 3:13PM
Hi all,
I've just pulled the air filter out of the 110, and discovered its not a
throw away paper one as I was expecting, but a yellow and green foam one.
I understand these are washable and re-oilable. What to wash it in and
re-oil it with ? Anyone know what brand the yellow and green ones are ?
What's the general consensus on these filters ? Better than the paper ones
? How long should they last ? How to tell when the 'use-by' date has been
reached?
Any comments appreciated,
Doug.
------------------------------
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 17:54:01 +1100 (EST)
From: Peter Stupans <pstupans@ozemail.com.au>
I use a blue/green and black foam "Finer filter" in my Disco. It is
suposably more effective than paper in dust and breathes freer too. It is
cleaned by washing in turps, then soapy water, dried, then retreated in
"finer filter oil" an incredibly sticky treacly oil that filters and holds
the dust.
The yellow and green foam one might be a "Unifilter", also a foam filter
treated similarly I think. Check out from a Unifilter outlet the cleaning
procedure and proper treatment oil for it.
They should last as long as they don't fall apart. Just keep re oiling
regularly.
Doug Writes:
Hi all,
I've just pulled the air filter out of the 110, and discovered its not a
throw away paper one as I was expecting, but a yellow and green foam one.
I understand these are washable and re-oilable. What to wash it in and
re-oil it with ? Anyone know what brand the yellow and green ones are ?
What's the general consensus on these filters ? Better than the paper ones
? How long should they last ? How to tell when the 'use-by' date has been
reached?
Any comments appreciated,
Doug.
P Stupans
PO Box 580
Glebe 2037
Australia
pstupans@ozemail.com.au
tel: +61 (0)2 9887 2359
fax: +61 (0)2 9417 5066
------------------------------
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From: Matthew Loxton <matthewl@dinet.co.za>
Subject: Rangie carb trouble
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 08:38:06 +-200
Help!
This weekend we *fixed* my '87 Rangie and while it used to have a flat =
spot on heavy acceleration. We found that the driver side carb metering =
needle had been fiddled with and had retreated into its brass housing by =
5mm or so. This was repaired while we wait for replacement needle. It =
seems that the carbs had been set up so that the passenger side carb was =
actually doing most of the work.
Now that the carbs are balanced, timing is spot on, advance working, the =
flat spot covers almost *any* form of acceleration. From pull-away up to =
~15-20 Km/h it pulls fine, from 20km/h power disappears and any demand =
for acceleration makes power vanish in a fluttery sort of way.
If acceleration is applied sloooooowly, everything is sort of ok and =
120Km/h can be reached, but still, if I hit the pedal, it immediately =
loses power.
I have about run out of ideas, any thoughts anybody?
Matthew Loxton
Yellow Peril S-III going fine
Green Pumpkin Rangie, sick sick sick
matthewl@dinet.co.za
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From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Rangie carb trouble
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 09:27:08 +1030 (CDT)
According to Matthew Loxton:
> Now that the carbs are balanced, timing is spot on, advance working, the =
> flat spot covers almost *any* form of acceleration. From pull-away up to =
> 120Km/h can be reached, but still, if I hit the pedal, it immediately =
> loses power.
1st thought, is the dashpot oil of appropriate viscosity, I've found that
engine oil is fine under most circumstances, but heavier stuff 40/70
seems to provide better accell. (of course I could be imagining it). no
dashpot oil leads to very sluggish performance :-)
2nd thought. are all of the breather and vent ports clear and
appropriately vented, a blocked float chamber vent will make CD's very unhappy
Oh I've just realised I'm thinking CD'd I guess most also applies to SU's
Best of luck
--
Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 10:28:42 +1100
From: amanda@zeta.org.au (Amanda Carkagis)
Subject: Re: Gearbox Question
>Hi all,
> Can anyone explain why, in my series 2a, that when in third gear &
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>pressure to hold it in gear,when this occurs. No problems whatsoever when
>going uphill.
Ian , if my memory serves me correctly the reason(s) for this are often
caused by a weak detent spring/ worn selector forks/ worn gears. My Series
III came with a SIIA diesel and SIIA gearbox. It suffered the same problem
and I eventually fixed it by changing the engine and gearbox as both of them
were well and truly past their use-by date.
It is a problem that you may be able to live with around town, but if you
use the vehicle off road it can be very dangerous when relying on engine
braking on steep declines.
Regards Phil Carkagis (amanda@zeta.org.au)
------------------------------
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From: Damien Hoban <d.hoban@yellowpages.com.au>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 13:52:04 +1100
au-lro unsubscribe
------------------------------
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END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST
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Output: lines 496 [content 259 forwarded 15 (cut 2) whitespace 148]
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