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Date: Thu, 07 Nov 1996 20:05:25 -0800
From: jmans@igubu.saix.net (Beta-user Johannes Mans)
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Rangie carb trouble]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Matthew Loxton wrote:
> Help!
> This weekend we *fixed* my '87 Rangie and while it used to have a flat spot on heavy acceleration. We found that the driver side carb metering
needle had been
> Now that the carbs are balanced, timing is spot on, advance working, the flat spot covers almost *any* form of acceleration. From pull-away up
> This weekend we *fixed* my '87 Rangie and while it used to have a flat spot on heavy acceleration. We found that the driver side carb metering
to ~15-20 Km/h i
> If acceleration is applied sloooooowly, everything is sort of ok and 120Km/h can be reached, but still, if I hit the pedal, it immediately
loses power.
> I have about run out of ideas, any thoughts anybody?
> Matthew Loxton
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> Green Pumpkin Rangie, sick sick sick
> matthewl@dinet.co.za
Hi Matthew
Just a couple ideas in general.
I had a similar problem on a golf a couple of years back. It turned out
to be a vacuum leak in the inlet manifold. As you accelerate ,you suck in
to much air, turning your mixture lean hence you lose power. Check all
pipes and hoses connected to your manifold and carburettor. Also check
your vacuum advance on your distributor since if it does not function
your timing goes out as your revs increase.
I recently adjusted my SII stromberg with a CO meter.All readings were
perfect ,but I could not pull away. It turned out that the mixture was
far to lean even though the readings indicated otherwise. I made a simple
jig to lift Needle from the dashpot chamber and adjusted the carb again.
Same principle as adjusting a Mini SU carb.Revs increase - mixture
rich,Revs decrease - mixture lean, Revs static or slight increase
followed by decrease- mixture fine. My SII is runnung Purr-fectly now.
Remember that CO meters are sometimes designed for vehicles fitted with
catalytic converters and thus the CO before and after the converter is
different. Thus measuring CO on a car without catalytic converters can
give the wrong readings.
Good luck
Johannes Mans
Pretoria
mans@siemens.co.za / jmans@igubu.saix.net
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 10:07:12 +1100
From: amanda@zeta.org.au (Amanda Carkagis)
Subject: 101FC Club and Register
Can anyone help me with the postal and E-mail address of the 101 Forward
Control Club and Register in the UK?
I have recently become the (eventually impoverished) owner of one of these
magnificent beasts and would like a few contacts either here or overseas.
Regards,
Phil Carkagis.
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From: Andrew Holman <akdh@ihug.co.nz>
Subject: RE: 101FC Club and Register
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 12:45:31 +1300
----------
From: Amanda Carkagis[SMTP:amanda@zeta.org.au]
Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 1996 12:30 PM
Subject: 101FC Club and Register
Can anyone help me with the postal and E-mail address of the 101 Forward
Control Club and Register in the UK?
I have recently become the (eventually impoverished) owner of one of these
magnificent beasts and would like a few contacts either here or overseas.
Regards,
Phil Carkagis.
>From LRO issue october 96:
101 Forward Control Club and Register
Helena Wright
Acorn Cottage
Resting Oak Hill
Cooksbridge
Lewes
East Sussex BN8 4PS
TEL 01273 400264
Forward Control Register IIA and IIB
C B Heron
28 Front Street
Daisy Hill
Sacriston
Co Durham DH7 6BL
TEL 0191 371 2527
Regards Andrew Holman
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From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Should I use engine flush in 3.5 V8 ?
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 96 14:49:00 EST
I am not sure that I'd use a flushing oil. I'll take advice on that one.
Re oil change, yes the manual says to change the oil then the filter. I
don't have the manual with me but I think it was more a problem of leaving
the filter off for toolong.
If you lose the pump prime, you will need to remove the pump and fill it
with vaseline. I fill the filter 3/4 full before screwing it on.
Ron
----------
From: Doug McPherson
Subject: Should I use engine flush in 3.5 V8 ?
Date: Monday, 9 December 1996 12:32PM
Hi all,
I need to change the engine oil on my recently acquired 110 V8.
Its running the oil I bought it with, so its of unknown age and change
frequency.
I've seen products like Wynn's Engine Flush, which you add to the engine
before draining theold oil.
Its supposed to remove 'gunk'.
I can see this as a good & bad thing, good for removing stuff, but bad for
sending it all over the engine and maybe blocking oilways.
Anyone have any thoughts ?
Doug.
PS: I've heard that when changing oil on the V8, you should drain and
refill
the block, THEN change the oil filter, so that the pump doesn't need
priming. Is this right ???
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From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Should I use engine flush in 3.5 V8 ?
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 14:51:27 +1030 (CDT)
Ron writes:
> Re oil change, yes the manual says to change the oil then the filter. I
> don't have the manual with me but I think it was more a problem of leaving
> the filter off for too long.
Different manuals say different things :-(, the early rangie manual uses
bold lettering to warn you not to leave the filter off too long and to
make sure that the filter is full of oil when it is fitted.
> If you lose the pump prime, you will need to remove the pump and fill it
> with vaseline.
There is another quicker but messier way. If you remove the pressure
limiting valve you can squirt lots of oil into the pump, a far bit will
run down your arms and into your hair, but there will be enough get into
the pump to re-prime it. It gets less messy with practice.....
cheers
Daryl (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)
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END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST
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