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1 Noel Puzey [noelp@bom.go57Hot starting 110 V8's
2 "Beckett, Ron" [rbeckett44RE: Problem hot starting 110 V8
3 Peter Stupans [pstupans@20Warped dash and gearbox woes
4 Peter Stupans [pstupans@18Adelaide repairs
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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 1996 08:35:54 +0800
From: Noel Puzey <noelp@bom.gov.au>
Subject: Hot starting 110 V8's

Doug,

Not an unusual problem in having difficulties starting when hot on LPG on
any vehicle really, but common on Rangies. Some of this is to do with the
way the gas carburettor works. Somewhere on the vehicle (usually on the side
of the engine bay) you will find a gas converter that takes the liquid LPG
and expands it to a (much more flammable) gas. It is usually a circular disk
made of alloy and looks a bit like a land mine! What happens is that the
liquid line from the tank feeding in to the converter and the converter
itself gets too hot after the engine is run and then switched off, with most
of the heat coming obviously from the exhaust manifold. This is why 6
cylinder vehicles usually have the converter  on the opposite side to try
and keep it cool. The converter then does not work properly (I don't
understand this bit as if it gets too hot the liquid should be gas anyway)
and so the engine will not start until sufficient gas is pumped through to
get liquid LPG back to the converter. Hence cranking forever when hot.

Suggested fixes are to insulate the line/converter with either shielding eg
stainless sheet or some form of insulation, or relocate the converter to a
cooler position. Try leaving the bonnet open after a run sometime at home
and see if this makes it easier to start - if so then heat is the problem.

Switching to petrol when it doesn't start still takes a few cranks - firstly
most of us are too impatient to wait for the electric fuel pump to fill the
bowls (takes quite a few secs) and then you are putting fuel into a mix of

the improperly mixed gas to clear ie more cranks.

Perhaps the best way around the problem is to switch to fuel before coming
to rest, start on fuel when hot and change to gas later.

I would also strongly recommend the use of a upper cylinder lubricant
kit/tank when running on gas. Hardened seats or not. The kit usually
consists of a plastic tank and a vacuum feed (easily regulated and attached
to the SU's) and costs about $40 including a litre of lubricant that lasts
about a year. Have seen cylinder heads from taxis with/without lubricant and
the ones without are completely stuffed where there is no discernable wear
on ones with.

Feels good filling up at 35c per litre doesn't it!!

Noel Puzey

Noel Puzey

Metdork

Bureau of Meteorology Perth Western Australia

ph 61 (0)9 2632255 Work
   61 (0)9 3682361 Home
   61 (0)9 2632261 Fax

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From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Problem hot starting 110 V8
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 96 00:02:00 EST

Doug wrote on Monday, 23 December 1996 10:00PM

>my 110 V8 doesn't like starting when hot, especially on gas.

>Starts OK cold, but doesn't even seem to fire when cranking when hot. I
>have to switch to petrol, then start it. It still needs a few cranks !

Sorry I can't help on that one, Doug.  I had the opposite problem - hard 
starting on cold but fixed with new plugs and points.

>And finally, anyone buying a second hand 4 spd 110/Rangie, drain your
>gearbox/ tcase oil as soon as you get it. Some nerk has probably put Hypoid
>in it ! I know they did with mine. The shift is much nicer with clean 20w50
>than murky EP80 too.

I'll check my '83 4-speed, it is heavy but I don't know if it is normal. 
 Certainly, in comparison to a friends Defender, it is very heavy.  It gets 
easier when it warms up.  It would be nice to have a light change.

>Hopefully the EP hasn't been there too long and
>knackered the shims ,blocking the oil ways with the residue. This is
>apparently what happens.
Is there a fix or does the box have to come apart?  Does fresh oil flush the 
oilways?
Earlier this year I saw a reference in a newsletter for minicars 
(Messerschmidts etc) a comment that EP oils destroy some gearbox parts.  I 
wish I could remember the text.

What do you use in the transfer case, 80/90EP or engine oil?  The RR manual 
specifies engine oil for early cars.  For the L230T, they show auto fluid, 
engine oil and 80/90EP are all ok.

Ron Beckett
'83 RR 3.5L manual
'87 RR 4.8L auto
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660   -  for pictures see
http://oasis.bellevue.k12.wa.us/craig/hillman/hunter.html
'67 Hillman Gazelle

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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 1996 14:25:37 +1100 (EST)
From: Peter Stupans <pstupans@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Warped dash and gearbox woes

Well, I got to Adelaide from Sydney without problems (other than a 12 inch
crack in the windscreen from an 18 wheeler chucking rocks). The gearbox is
still hanging in there without any recurrence of the lock up/crunch in first.
I got on to the dealer about the warped, delaminating dash and they will
still replace it even though the Disco is now out of warranty. Yipee. Thank
to respondents reporting that this is a common thing, which Rover and the
dealer are used to handling. Seems like this is true.
As far as the box goes, the dealer said that they would road test it to see
if it happens. If it didn't happen all the way over 1400km, I severely doubt
that it wil happen for the dealer going around the block. I've got to
convince him it's still there. Different diagnoses have ranged from possible
driveshaft spline wear to tranfer case lock causing wind up. None of them cheap.

Peter Stupans
1995 V8 5 speed Disco "Patsy"

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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 1996 16:37:12 +1100 (EST)
From: Peter Stupans <pstupans@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Adelaide repairs

Does anyone know of an Adelaide based repair workshop that is familiar with
Discovery? I'd just like to know if Walkerville Prestige is the only shop in
town.

Peter Stupans
P Stupans
PO Box 580
Glebe 2037
Australia

pstupans@ozemail.com.au
tel:	+61 2 9887 2359
fax:	+61 2 9417 5066

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