The Coil Sprung (Land-Rover) Owner List Daily Digest

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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 15:01:12 UT
From: "Matthew Loxton" <mloxton@msn.com>
Subject: tirfor come-along

Eric write...<snip> ..but you feed the cable through it so the cable 
never spools on a drum.<snip>

How does this goodie grip the cable? If it is a toothed affair then its going 
the ravish the cable in no time. I have seen big wire pullers being used like 
this and they chew up the cable very quickly.

Cheers
Matthew
ZA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 10:57:57 EST
From: rdl@NomuraNY.COM (Rob Legerio)
Subject: Re: Come alongs

----- Begin Included Message -----
To have enough pulling power, many use what is called a 'Tirfor' winch.  It is 
hand operated like a come along but you feed the cable through it so the cable 
never spools on a drum.  This has several advantages:  first, it has a greater 
pulling distance (as long as the cable), second, it allows you to pull the wire 
through to take up the slack (always a pain with a come along), third, it is 
completely portable so you can pull at whater point/angle desired, fourth, it is 
possible to pull much more than with a come along.  I don't know if there is a 
saftey cut-out but it would seem that with muscle power you would be able to 
guage when its getting near an unsafe load and find another way to recover.  
Most cable breakages happen with unsafe (read dirty, chafed, improperly routed) 
practices when winching.

I've never seen one in the US...does anyone know where to find one?
----- End Included Message -----

I've used something like this too.  Unlike the 'Tirfor' winch Eric describes,
the thing I used worked with chains and did not have a handle like a come
along.  It looked like a giant half open pulley like you see in a block
and tackel setup. It contained many gear-like wheels in a heavy steel case.
The chains pulled through it had huge links. If I remember correctly, the
gears turned in alternate directions going across the unit with continuous
reduction going across. To operate it, you would put a short (~10ft) endless
piece of chain on one of the gears on the fast moving side. This is the chain
you would pull on. You would thread the chain attached to your vehicle over
an opposite turning, slower, gear selected based on desired reduction. Like a
come along, it would not slip back. The whole setup weighted a ton but, I think
could pull a Patton tank out of a tar pit.  I was using it one time to pull an
old army jeep out of some deep mud when the bolt holding the hook on the end of
the chain sheared. I was being lazy and had attached the chain to the jeep
stupidly. Lucky for me the chain was so heavy, it did not whip like a cable
can. It kind of bunched up and landed just short of where I was standing.
Very scary. I think my uncle (who owned this gizmo) said something about this
thing being used on ships.  My uncle has long since passed so, no more info
is available from him. Eric's description of the 'Tirfor' sparked my memory
of the device. I will ask one of my cousins if they remember it or know what
became of it.

Rob

------------------------------

Date: 05 Mar 96 11:08:34 EST
From: <Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: Re[2]: Diesel vs Petrol vs JT4

     
     Mike Rooth  et al wrote:
>> :-) I'm thinking of installing a couple of Rolls Royce RB162 lift
>> engines in our SIII, It will get us out of many awkward situations!!!! 
><   Of course an easier way to get air lift is to use an air jack! 
Keeping the Sky Hooks in reserve,of course.
     
I've got it! the ultimate use the  PTO on a LR. steal a couple of rotors 
from a helicopter, connect to the PTO, get her going and bingo, instant Land 
Rover autogyro!
Why buy a chinook helicopter when you can do it yourself? :)
Chris Browne

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 11:27:35 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: D90 Stuff on the Newbie list

Hi all,

1) - Had an intermittent bucking problem with my 95 D90. Felt like fuel 
delivery problem. No engine check lights, and no codes on the ECU. Checked 
all of my electric's and found some loose connectors at the coil. 
Recrimped and all has been fine sense. Suggest all other owners check 
connectors at the coil, distributor, Etc. for loose connections. Also the 
infamous "inertia fuel cutoff" in my 95 D90 has been relocated from the 
fuse panel to inside the engine bay just above the air intake. There is no 
selectable switch ala 94 D90's but instead a spring loaded rubber encased 
plunger at the top. No wonder I couldn't find it!

2) - Mounted my Jackall 8000 behind the front seats. I took the mounting 
brackets and mounted them to the angled front panels of the wheel boxes. 
The jack sits snugly between the seats and support bar, is lockable, and 
still easy to get to.

3) - Installing rear inward facing bench seats. Getting RN mounting kit 
for NAS D90's. Located seats as close to the rear speakers as possible. 
This leaves just enough room for an ammo box on top of each wheel box next 
to the support brace for hand tools, chains, shackles, Etc. Biggest 
complaint about the seats is that they are not deep enough to really get 
all of your rear end on. So I fabricated a 3" extension that allows the 
seat cushions to come forward another 3". This makes the seats a lot more 
comfortable and doesn't interfere with folding them up. Also mounting two 
lap belts per side! (Safety police notification)! Ha!

4) - Mounted Max Axe tool to the inside of one of the wheel boxes. Fits 
perfect just under the overhang of the bench seat. Used RN mounting kit. 
Axe is secure and locked. Mounting small flat shovel under the other bench 
seat.

5) - Also now carrying small chain saw. Secure in plastic carrying case 
and locked to support bar behind seats. Has come in very handy more than 
once!

Next will be fog/driving lights, and jerry can holder attached to spare 
tire carrier as soon as I can figure out how I want to make it.

P.S. All of you other D90 owners better stop all this talk of spring! It's 
snowing here in MA #$%^&*!!!!!

Cheers, and happy Roverin'!
Barnett
95 D90   

------------------------------

Date: 05 Mar 96 12:15:56 EST
From: <Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: D90 & Misc. ?'s

     
     1: surrey top-very smart - no good in the rain as the rain gets sucked 
     back into the car unless you drive at the right speed
     2: speakers are covered just like the head unit of the stereo-get the 
     dealer to replace
     3: rust claim under the anti rust policy
     4: many convertible rr were built by aftermarket coachbuilders in the 
     Uk, especially in the early years of RR. Many went to the middle east. 
     100 and stretched 110 RR were frequent victims of this treatment I 
     want to say that one company was called vantagefield, based in the Uk. 
     They also developed a very smart looking Discovery. all convertibles 
     that I ever saw were two door cars
      
        Re WC- he said "And you Madam are ugly, but I will be sober in the      
         morning"
  chris browne

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 13:06:25 -0500
Subject: Range Rover Power door locks

>I called, and they sell the tailgate hatch complete, so I can't get a lock 
>that way.  Kevin, next time you have to replace yours <grin>, tell me more 
>about the German inscriptions, maybe there's a compatible M-B part.

I have one of the actuators in front of me right now (I saved one in the hope
that someone can tell me how to fix it someday.  I destroyed one of them
while trying to take it apart and fix it).  The actuator says "Kiekert" and
"W.-Germany" it has a "1" on one side and a "2" on the other side.  The box
is a Land Rover Genuine Parts box and it says "1xPRC 3916 ACTUATOR DOOR PASS
MADE IN GERMANY 70 Ef 4 188245 20602"

If the junk yard will not sell just the actuators, the best bet is to look
for someone who is parting out a Range Rover.  (If anyone knows of a Range
Rover that is being parted out, please post to the list.  I am looking for a
few parts also.)  You might also want to call a smaller junk yard, I found a
junk yard here in the bay area that would sell lust an actuator, (they wanted
$60, so I bought a new one mail order for $79)  Many small junk yards will
sell very small items.

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 13:07:34 -0500
Subject: Gray Market Cars

>>     1: Gray Market cars are generally worth up to 1/3 less than "legit" 
>>     cars. Make sure that all the documentation is complete and the car is 
>>     as legal as possible. Take the 87 legit car price and subtract $ 
>>     accordingly

>I don't remember if the original poster lived in California, but, if it
>really IS  a gray market car... forget it.  Even WITH all the proper paper
>work you can expect a hassle every 2 years when you go to smog it.

I wouldn't go as far as John and say "forget it" to a gray market car.  I
have lived in California my entire life and I have seen the smog laws get
stricter and stricter.  I have owned two gray market cars in the past (both
BMW's a 323i and a 635csi) I would not buy another gray market car unless I
wanted that car and I couldn't get a U.S. model that was anything like it or
it was a deal to good to pass up. (let me know if anyone finds a nice 2 door
Range Rover for $2K).  I will say "forget it" if the gray market car is not
registered with all the proper DOT and EPA paper work.  Even if everything is
in order a Gray Market car will be a PIA every time it has to be smogged.
 Gray market cars also provide many other challenges when working on them
because it is hard to know what was done to the engine to get it to pass the
EPA tests.  If you know a lot about a car, are a DIYer, and have the free
time to deal with driving to referee stations and fighting with the DMV, a
gray market car maybe for you.  Remember that they are hard to sell and you
may sell it for much less than you think you can get.  One last thing, call
your insurance company, gray market cars are often hard to insure.

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 13:08:42 -0500
From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi)
Subject: Tirfor winches in the US?

Eric and Dayrl wrote about Tirfor winches in today's rro-digest.  These
sound like exactly what I want!  I've had a hard time locating any suitable
come-a-longs.  Walmart (US chain) has a few very wimpy ones, and Northern
Hydraulic has a beefy one, but only 12' of cable.

If anyone knows of a US supplier, or an overseas one who is willing to deal
with the US, please drop me a note.  Thanks.
-Bob

  rvirzi@gte.com             Think Globally. ===
  +1(617)466-2881                            === Act Locally!

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 12:15:47 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: winch FAQ

  rvirzi@gte.com wrote:
 
> Tom-
snip
> You're putting together a file on winches.  I was hoping you'd be including
> hand powered setups (come-a-longs) in that effort as well.  So far I've
snip

I will, especially after seeing the recent interest in hand winches 
and their ilk.
I've been saving the recent postings and I have a fair amount of 
experience with them having done heavy construction and logging.
But I'm always open to more info.

For those interested in buying one, I'd look at construction supply 
houses. The ones you see in discount houses and hardware stores are 
usually not worth the effort of getting them, not to mention the 
money.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 13:15:57 -0500
Subject: mail format

sorry to be subscribing then unsubscribing, then resubscribing (kind of a
series way of fixing things?), but I was getting this on a per-posting basis.
Hopefully what I did will get it to me as a once per day, digest form. I
don't know if I can handle all the mail (download time) if it comes in
individually.

Oh, well, since I'm here already...
I contacted Andy Blackley, and asked him what I'll ask here-
Does anyone have a diagram that would show the vacuum piping for the carbs (
high compression, advance/retard distributor) on a '84 RR? Andy will probably
be able to help, but I thought I'd see who knows what here. We just got the
vehicle a week and a half ago, and there are obviously some 'bits and
fixings' missing. I wish to time/tune it ASAP, but feel I won't be
accomplishing much if it's not complete as intended. Other than that and some
electrical deficiencies (non-function of guages, lights, etc.) and some need
of inner sill replacement, it is a very nice vehicle, and quite a change from
a series vehicle! We acquired it and then drove it home 1093 miles, no
problems, other than electrical. It was very difficult to find though. It
seems that most owners are not too eager to give them up. But, as they say,
perserverance furthers...  The worst part of it is that it is my wife's new
vehicle!!! It does have a nice ride to it, I must say...
thanx,
Jim '60 P5 (628000165)
       '68 P6 SC Auto
       '68 P6 TC
       '60, '61, '64, '64, '68, '71    LR's, 88"
       '84 RR  (HC)
                 (and one lonely volvo P1800)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 11:02:02 -0700 (MST)
From: Tebbin Salvesen <tsalves@slcpl.slcpl.lib.ut.us>
Subject: Re: Coming up For Air!/RR questions

re:door rubbing my 87 does the very same thing on the drivers door at the
front. I have not had any prob. with this so i just consider it a
convienent way to polish the aluminum strip.
How hard was the bushing set to install did you do it yourself? I want to
do this as well as install sway bars this summer. (I already have the
bilsteins, they work well with only 1 failure so far!)
I to am an escapee from the lro!
T.S.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 11:06:46 -0700 (MST)
From: Tebbin Salvesen <tsalves@slcpl.slcpl.lib.ut.us>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Diesel vs Petrol vs JT4

On 5 Mar 1996 Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com wrote:
as a pilot I have only one thing to say GOOD LUCK! can I have the parts
after the crash? >      
>      Mike Rooth  et al wrote:
> >> :-) I'm thinking of installing a couple of Rolls Royce RB162 lift
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Why buy a chinook helicopter when you can do it yourself? :)
> Chris Browne

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 12:37:13 -0600
From: "John B. Friedman" <johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu>
Subject: 92 RR for sale in Urbana, Illinois

There is a 92 standard RR dark green, black? RR for sale in  
Urbana,Illinois at Shelby Motors on University Ave. It is priced at  
2699. It has tail light guards but nothing else on it that I could  
see. Clean looking,  But they have had it nearly 2 months I think and  
might dicker.John Friedman 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 11:16:21 -0800 (PST)
From: brian rainbolt <brainbol@fix.net>
Subject: central locking

I just read part of this thread so I do not know the whole story, but if it
is door lock actuators you need you can go to any car stereo/alarm place and
get generic ones that can easily be fit for about $25.00 and they work very
well. I have had to do two this way and have had very good luck.

Brian Rainbolt
89RR SLO, CA.

------------------------------

Date: 05 Mar 96 14:22:57 EST
From: Tom Snurka <76550.2503@compuserve.com>
Subject: Disco Power

Disco power or lack therof.
<<You do certainly lose power with the fuel-injected V8 at altitude. My 
Discovery is distinctly wheezier at 5700 feet where I live than at 1800 
feet where I work. You just give yourself more time to "accelerate" on 
the mountain roads.>>

Have you tried the old racers trick of advancing the ignition slightly?  The
initial ignition timing on the '94 Disco's are not adjusted by the ECU and
therefore can be manipulated independently.  I live just outside of the "Mile
High City" and almost sold the beast until I was reminded of the trick from my
days as a young motorhead.  At 5280 ft. above sea level I have successfully
advanced the ignition to 10 degrees BTDC and have noticed no pre-ignition
problems even with mid grade (87 RON) gasoline.  For safeties sake I typically
run at 9 degrees BTDC.  To verify that there are no problems with the
modification I have monitored the plugs closely every 2K miles and have seen no
differences there or in operating temperatures.  Gas mileage improved slightly.
I'm now no longer embarrassed at the stoplight grand prix.  In fact, I'm told by
a mech at the dealership in Aspen that they offer this modification and another
simple mod to the auto tranny as a matter of course.  I would suggest that you
should be able to bump your ignition forward at least a couple degrees at your
present altitude and should see no adverse effects.  When you come VISIT us in
Colorful Colorado, bump it forward another couple degrees and have some fun!  No
wheezin'!

Should you be equipped with a auto gearbox, let me know.  I've got a minor mod
that makes the box shift slightly later allowing use of the better torque range.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 14:28:07 EST
From: rdl@NomuraNY.COM (Rob Legerio)
Subject: Re: Hand winches

Avenir Company, Industrial products sells a hand winch I've seen
in Four Wheeler. It's made of steel, has 40 ft. of 5/16 industrial
steel cable, and is rated at 4000lbs dead lift (quoted from add).
It's a come-along style winch with a spool. $199.95 + 6.75 S/H.
Looks heavy duty in the add.

1-800-626-0095 for orders.
(614) 763-3048 for inquiries.

Rob

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 19:55:05 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: GPS

All, 

Can anyone recommend a hand held GPS unit. I have looked at the NAVTECH 
catalogue and it's between the Garmin 45 or the Magellan Meridian XL . 

Anyone offer any help, if you have one of these units, what do you like / 
dislike about them. I want to use mine in the car for offroading, walking and 
also for putting input into a windows based tool for import into ACT.  

Thanks,

Mark   

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 12:06:52 -0800
From: Christopher Boese <cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us>
Subject: Re: Disco Power

Tom Snurka wrote:

> Disco power or lack therof.
> Have you tried the old racers trick of advancing the ignition slightly? 

That's a promising tip. Thanks. No, I haven't tried that yet, only 
because I assumed that on my '95, the ECU would do it for me. I ought to 
think about it, keeping in mind that I do much of my driving down below 
at a couple of thousand feet.

> Should you be equipped with a auto gearbox, let me know.  I've got a minor mod
> that makes the box shift slightly later allowing use of the better torque range.

I remember a thread last year on this. No one ever explained how it had 
been done, though. I'd be *really* interested in how this works. It seems 
quite a few transmissions these days have that sport/economy/winter mode 
switch, which Solihull thinks isn't necessary. Perhaps it's because just 
seeing the word "sport" inside a Land Rover would inspire too much 
derisive laughter. Well, it would on that other list, anyway. 8-)

-- 
Christopher Boese
County of San Bernardino, California
Information Services, Information Systems Security Office
'95 beluga black Discovery V8i

------------------------------

From: "Tom Walsh" <tomw@netcom.com>
Date:          Mon, 4 Mar 1996 12:22:48 +0000
Subject:       Re: Disco Power

What is the Autobox Mod you are talking about ?

Tomw

> From:          Tom Snurka <76550.2503@compuserve.com>
> Subject:       Disco Power

> Disco power or lack therof.
> <<You do certainly lose power with the fuel-injected V8 at altitude. My 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 28 lines)]
> Should you be equipped with a auto gearbox, let me know.  I've got a minor mod
> that makes the box shift slightly later allowing use of the better torque range.
---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*
                       Fluent Networks
             "Intelligent Networking Solutions"
Tom Walsh
tomw@netcom.com soon to be tomw@fluentnet.com
95 LR Disco "The Green Monster"
#include <std_disclaim.h>
*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 15:28:44 EST
From: rdl@NomuraNY.COM (Rob Legerio)
Subject: Re: Hand winches

Whoops! I typed the price wrong on the Avenir hand winch.

It's $119.95 not $199.95.

Sorry,
Rob

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 14:10:57 -0700
From: "Lee Zeltzer" <lzeltzer@isdnet.com>
Subject: GPS selection

Mark Talbot wrote:
> All,
> Can anyone recommend a hand held GPS unit. I have looked at the NAVTECH
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> Thanks,
> Mark

 I have had experience with the Garmin 45, it is a nice compact unit. 
Since I
get lost driving home I never go off road without it. If you plan to use 
it
in your truck you will need a cable extension for the antenna. I have 
never
even thought about connecting the Garmin to ACT and I am not sure what 
data
you would move back and forth.

Good luck and don't get lost!
--
Lee Zeltzer, Senior Consultant
Innovative System Design
100 N. Stone Ave. Suite 605
Tucson AZ 85701
(520)791-3323 X 21
http://www.isdnet.com

------------------------------

From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 16:27:22 +0100
Subject: Brano hand winches

I see another brand of hand winch, the Brano. Anyone have any 
experience with these? The smaller one, 1.5 tonne, comes 20 meters 
of 8 millimeter wire rope. The larger is 2.5 tonne with 20m of 11mm 
wire rope.

--
Gerald
Massachusetts, U.S.
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: Disco Power
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 14:32:25 MST

Christopher Boese wrote:
: Tom Snurka wrote:
: : Disco power or lack therof.
: : Have you tried the old racers trick of advancing the ignition slightly? 
: That's a promising tip. Thanks. No, I haven't tried that yet, only 
: because I assumed that on my '95, the ECU would do it for me. I ought to 
: think about it, keeping in mind that I do much of my driving down below 
: at a couple of thousand feet.

In the April '96 issue of Four Wheeler, in the D90 long term report,
they talk about how they increased the 3.9L V8's pep by advancing the
timing.  I think they bumped it to 12 degrees, though I'll have to
re-read the article to verify.  And those guys live in LA, near sea
level, so 8-10 degrees sounds like a number you could dial in and not
have to mess with if you change elevations.  Then, put in a K&N air
filter and some glass-packs and you'll have one "peppy" LR!

BTW - I've always run 91 octane (Premium grade here at 6035 feet)
because the manual says you should (and I always do what I'm told...)
Are you telling me that's not really necessary, that it'll run just fine
w/o knocking or loss of power on 87 or 85 octane?  Even climbing up
10,000 ft passes?  That would sure save some $$$!

Now, if someone could tell me how to change the shift points on the
5-speed... :-)

--
Jeffrey J. Gauvin

------------------------------

From: PremierLe@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 16:41:31 -0500
Subject: Defender 90 vs Jeep CJ

I am very interested in purchasing a Defender 90 for use in Montana. Can any
current owners tell me how they stack up to Jeep CJ or Wrangler for rock
crawling, hill climbing, and snow. Previous Jeep owners comments are
especially important. Do 90's need raised or larger tires like CJ do?

Has Defender 90's done the Rubicon Trail? How do they compaire to the CJ on
the trail?

Thanks
Darrell

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 14:35:42 -0700
From: Paul Orland <paulor@chs.com>
Subject: Disco questions...

Now that we can talk in peace (in comparison to LRO), I have a few questions:

1. Anyone have a solution for temporary disabling of ABS?

2. I have always run premium fuel. Any experience with lower octanes?

3. I want to get a Brush guard/Bull bar. I've heard the LR Genuine is kind of 
    wimpy. Seen the ARB complete bumper replacement and doesn't look
    all that attractive and seems a slight bit overkill. Seen "Simbar"
advertized
    in England. Any input on bars or suppliers?

 4. Is their a digest form of RRO? My attempts to subsribe digest have failed!

- Paul.

------------------------------

Date: 05 Mar 96 17:07:04 EST
From: Tom Snurka <76550.2503@compuserve.com>
Subject: Disco Power

I knew I'd stir up a hornet's nest here.

First, ignition timing.  I have not tested this below 2,000 ft. MSL.  At that
altitude I was able to advance the ignition 3 degrees to 8 degrees BTDC (from
stock 5 degrees BTDC) with no pre-ignition.  I was only able to test this with
91 RON ( LRNA recommended) gasoline.  At about 5-7K ft MSL I have advanced the
idle ignition timing  to 9-10 degrees BTDC with no apparent problems.  This was
done with 87 RON gasoline.  Again no pre-ignition.  Acceleration (and
drivability) is noticeably improved.  The only potential drawback is the lack of
pre-ignition sensor on the Disco.  However, I have monitored all the appropriate
indicators, e.g., operating temp, plug condition, and have seen no potential
problems to date whatsoever.  If the gas prices continue to climb I shall test
this configuration with 85 RON fuel and will report soonest.

Next, sluggish auto tranny performance.  I had the same problem with my 94.  It
seemed to shift just prior to getting into the proper torque band.  Slow and
frustrating, eh? Especially if the old lady in the "big lips" Explorer full of
groceries just blew yer doors in at the last stop light.  If you want to get
some passing lane pick up or just better performance from the auto transmission
(read: later shift points), simply adjust the automatic trans kickdown cable.
On the 94 Disco,  the kickdown cable is parallel to and below the throttle
cable.  Check to see if you have the right one by tracing the cable to the
transmission.  The throttle cable has a threaded round black adjustment to take
out slack in the throttle cable.  The kickdown cable located nearby and is
simply adjusted by loosening two 13mm nuts on either side of the throttle
bracket.  Adjust until you see about 3/8" between the end of the outer cable and
a metal crimp on the inner cable.  Experiment with the size of gap until you get
the tranny to operate in the manner you like.  Remember that the 1-2 upshift
will be slightly harsher (almost unnoticeable) during part throttle
acceleration.  Obviously, this mod is altitude independent!

I did these modifications approximately 8 months ago and have been very
impressed with the results.  In fact, I was sorely tempted to sell the beast
until I made the mods.  Now, you can^Rt get it out of my dead, cold hands.  Now,
if I could just figure out how to control the body roll . . .

------------------------------

From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 14:43:41 -0800
Subject: Re: Disco Power

On Mar 5,  2:32pm, Jeff Gauvin wrote:
> Subject: RE: Disco Power
> Christopher Boese wrote:
> : Tom Snurka wrote:
> : : Disco power or lack therof.
> : : Have you tried the old racers trick of advancing the ignition
slightly?
> : That's a promising tip. Thanks. No, I haven't tried that yet,
only
> : because I assumed that on my '95, the ECU would do it for me. I
ought to
> : think about it, keeping in mind that I do much of my driving
down below
> : at a couple of thousand feet.
> In the April '96 issue of Four Wheeler, in the D90 long term
> : Tom Snurka wrote:
report,
> they talk about how they increased the 3.9L V8's pep by advancing
the
> timing.  I think they bumped it to 12 degrees, though I'll have
to
> re-read the article to verify.  And those guys live in LA, near
sea
> level, so 8-10 degrees sounds like a number you could dial in and
not
> have to mess with if you change elevations.  Then, put in a K&N
air
> filter and some glass-packs and you'll have one "peppy" LR!
> BTW - I've always run 91 octane (Premium grade here at 6035 feet)
> because the manual says you should (and I always do what I'm
> : : Disco power or lack therof.
told...)
> Are you telling me that's not really necessary, that it'll run
just fine
> w/o knocking or loss of power on 87 or 85 octane?  Even climbing
up
> 10,000 ft passes?  That would sure save some $$$!

Yep,

The owner's manual states that premium, 91, should be used. They
don't indicate why, but others have indicated that as long as there
is no pinging, then moving down a grade or two is not a problem. I
would expect, not being an expert, that advancing the spark may not
work as well with lower octane gas. I've known several owners to
use mid-grade although I am not sure of any using regular.

FWIW...

> Now, if someone could tell me how to change the shift points on
> BTW - I've always run 91 octane (Premium grade here at 6035 feet)
the
> 5-speed... :-)
> --
> Jeffrey J. Gauvin
>-- End of excerpt from Jeff Gauvin
> : : Have you tried the old racers trick of advancing the ignition

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

------------------------------

From: "Paskalakis, George" <PASKALG@pcnet1.ascs.aro.allied.com>
Subject: "Leaky" Land Rovers
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 96 18:02:00 PST

I have a 95 Disco that is "drinking" more than 1 quart oil every 1000   
miles.
Has any one else noticed this problem?  Is it a problem?
I have checked for leaks but there is nothing on my driveway.

George  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 16:14:20 PST
From: dtownsen@steinway.edaca.ingr.com (Dave Townsend)
Subject: Re: "Leaky" Land Rovers

George et All,

I have a similar problem with my 91 Range Rover,
and I'd be interested if other people can comment.

I do not seem to burning oil, there is a little leakage
around the top gaskets, but does not seem to be enough
to account for such a loss & no leaky spots on the driveway
either.

I figured this was the way of British cars ( don't flame me,
I'm British too !!!), I can afford the occasional $1 for a spare
quart every now and then...any one with similar stories!

Dave Townsend

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 19:54:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Gray Market Cars

thanks Kevin,  an excellent sum up.
JOhn.

------------------------------

From: PremierLe@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 20:16:51 -0500
Subject: Defender 90 vs Jeep CJ

I am very interested in purchasing a Defender 90 for use in Montana. Can any
current owners tell me how they stack up to Jeep CJ or Wrangler for rock
crawling, hill climbing, and snow. Previous Jeep owners comments are
especially important. Do 90's need raised or larger tires like CJ do?

Has Defender 90's done the Rubicon Trail? How do they compaire to the CJ on
the trail?

Thanks
Darrell

------------------------------

From: "Tom Walsh" <tomw@netcom.com>
Date:          Mon, 4 Mar 1996 17:23:02 +0000
Subject:       Re: Disco Power

> Date:          05 Mar 96 17:07:04 EST
> From:          Tom Snurka <76550.2503@compuserve.com>
> To:            RRO Net <rro@playground.sun.com>
> Subject:       Disco Power
Big snip of stuff to try this weekend!

>  Now,
> if I could just figure out how to control the body roll . . .
> To:            RRO Net <rro@playground.sun.com>
> Subject:       Disco Power

My shocks were shot at 23K miles, I replaced them with Old Man Emu ( 
and a set of Heavy Duty Springs ) This gave me the lift I wanted, So 
I could put Trac Edge tires on.

If you get just the shocks I would assume you would get the same 
handling / stiffness I saw. No moe body roll!

Check out bilstiens shocks also! ( You may or may not want different 
springs ) but the shocks are a must.

Tomw

(PS: I put these different components on about a week apart each, so 
I know it should work for you )
---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*
                       Fluent Networks
             "Intelligent Networking Solutions"
Tom Walsh
tomw@netcom.com soon to be tomw@fluentnet.com
95 LR Disco "The Green Monster"
#include <std_disclaim.h>
*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 20:48:24 -0500
Subject: Re: GPS

>Can anyone recommend a hand held GPS unit. I have looked at the NAVTECH 
>catalogue and it's between the Garmin 45 or the Magellan Meridian XL . 

I'm very satisfied with the Magellan Meridan XL. We use it both on our
sailboat and in vehicles. It has really surprised me with its performance
sitting on the dash while in narrow valleys. I have but haven't used the 6
foot remote antenna cable and mount. By moving the antenna outside the
vehicle performance should be even better, but I haven't had the need yet.
One minor point for anyone thinking about a GPS. The output is in
Longitude/Latitude or an alternate major map coordinate system. Hence to find
out where you are you need to use topo maps or others with
longitude/latitude, etc, and a means such as dividers for establishing
locations on the map.

David Cockey
Rochester, MI

------------------------------

Date:  5 Mar 96 21:07 EST
From: lito@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Lito Lucena)
Subject: re: Disco questions...

hi paul,

the digest for rro is:  cso-digest (coil spring owners)

when you get around to installing your piaa's, can
you let me know the nitty gritty of getting the wiring
through the firewall and installing the switch??

tia,

lito
lito@oasys.dt.navy.mil

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 19:39:39 -0700 (MST)
From: Tebbin Salvesen <tsalves@slcpl.slcpl.lib.ut.us>
Subject: Re: Disco Power

re: timing adj. for altitude I own an 87 RR and live at 4500 ft. I have
done this and my 87 runs with the 3.9's easily! I have done several other
minor engine mods but this is a cheap easy way for altitude power!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 22:42:47 -0600
From: ahyoon@students.wisc.edu (Arnold Yoon)
Subject: Re: Defender 90 vs Jeep CJ

>I am very interested in purchasing a Defender 90 for use in Montana. Can any
>current owners tell me how they stack up to Jeep CJ or Wrangler for rock
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Thanks
>Darrell

Darrell:

I don't want to be too blunt...........In stock form, the D90 will
completely and absolutely destroy every single factory Jeep on the
planet.....Period.  That goes for all Rovers..  Why?  The following
factors:

- Approach/departure angles
- Wheel travel
- Ground clearance
- low center of gravity

D90's do not need any larger tires or suspension lifts..........I am
certain that the D90 has done the RC....Rovers have gone places that other
could not even think about going........Continental Divide....

In fact, the first Camel Trophy was run with Jeeps.......they simply
couldn't handle the abuse........Ever since and forever, the CT will be run
with LRs......

Buy the Defender......don't expect the stereotypical japanese-like
reliability.....expect the most capable non-compromise vehicle on the
planet....the Hummer can do more (on the spec sheets) but can't go half the
places that the D can go.....unless you really want to run everything
over..(larger than life)...end of story.....

if you have any further questions, please ask...or call me at the number below

Arnold Yoon
University of Wisconsin - Madison
E-Mail: ahyoon@students.wisc.edu
Voice: (608) 259-9936

Land Rover 4 Ever!
1995 Land Rover Discovery
"Four Wheel Drive Exemplified"

 

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 20:43:47 -0800
Subject: Re: Defender 90 vs Jeep CJ

On Tue, 5 Mar 1996, PremierLe@aol.com wrote:
>I am very interested in purchasing a Defender 90 for use in Montana. Can any
>current owners tell me how they stack up to Jeep CJ or Wrangler for rock
>crawling, hill climbing, and snow. Previous Jeep owners comments are
>especially important. Do 90's need raised or larger tires like CJ do?

The axle articulation on a D90 (or any coil sprung Land Rover) makes it far 
superior to any of the Jeep ilk.  For real extreme stuff any vehicle could use 
some more ground clearance such as with larger tires.  You will find, however, 
that stock, the D90 will reach that point much later than with anything 
else...if you ever reach that point.

>Has Defender 90's done the Rubicon Trail? How do they compaire to the CJ on
>the trail?  

Don't know about that....anyone want to lend me one to try?  Unfortunately, I 
don't have one...I've only driven my friends'...enough to whet my appetite 
greatly.

Good luck!
Eric

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 23:48:09 -0500 (EST)
From: rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy IV)
Subject: Re: GPS

>To:"Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
>From:rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy IV)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 31 lines)]
>the search string in their catalog, you'll see a listing of all the units
>they sell.  I think the Garmin-45 was $299(maybe lower).
>Hope this info. helps!  John Cassidy   Bangor, Maine

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Defender 90 vs Jeep CJ
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 15:45:14 +1030 (CDT)

Darrell asks:
> Has Defender 90's done the Rubicon Trail? How do they compaire to the CJ on
> the trail?

Being from downunder I dont know much about the rubicon trail, but I do 
recall reading an article by some guy who took a *stock* rangie over it 
several years ago (white 2dr ISTR, should see if i can find the article)

Anyway the gist of the story was that his stock rangie could go almost 
anywhere the tricked up Jeeps did, just a little more slowly (and 
comfortably :-) over the really rough bits.

If an older 100" wb rangie can do it a new D90 should romp it in.

cheers 

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Date: 06 Mar 96 00:32:10 EST
From: Jim Roth <74245.1226@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re:Disco Power/V8 oil filters

Timing:

I have been meaning to bump up my timing for a while now. I live at 7500ft.
I've done it to my other vehicles (except the diesel, of course) with good
results.  I looked at the marks on the front pulley but I don't see any values
for each mark.  What does each mark represent? I can't find anything in the
manual. It is currently set at "2 marks" BTDC.

Oil filters:

I am also a recent escapee from the LRO, pardon please if this has been posted
here already.  As we all know, LRNA is very proud of its oil filters.  I got
tired of the bite and called Allied SIgnal (FRAM) at 1-800-231-FRAM and found
out that their PH16 oil filter has just been approved by LR for V8's that use
the ERR3340 spin on filter. I compared the two and the PH16 is slightly smaller
physically.  Otherwise, on the insides I gotta take FRAM's word. .  All this is
fortunate for me since I have another vehicle which uses the same filter.  The
bite is also $2.46 at Wal-Mart or $2.99 at Pep Boys.  You should check for
yourselves at the 800 number and post if you hear anything different than I did.

'94 Disco
'88 Alfa Romeo 3.0
'81 MB300tdt
'71 IH Travelall 4x4 (sold!)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 22:50:33 -0800 (PST)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: Defender 90 vs Jeep CJ

On Tue, 5 Mar 1996, Arnold Yoon wrote:

> >Has Defender 90's done the Rubicon Trail? How do they compaire to the CJ on
> >the trail?

> Darrell:

> D90's do not need any larger tires or suspension lifts..........I am
> certain that the D90 has done the RC....Rovers have gone places that other
> could not even think about going........Continental Divide....

Darrell and Arnold,

There was a nice article in the Spring 1995 Aluminum Workhorse about a
couple of Tdi D90s from Alberta that came down to do the Rubicon, and had
a great time showing the modified j**pers how a virtually stock vehicle 
should do it.  They did have underbody armour and aftermarket winches, and 
one had ARB Lockers.  No problem, and they drove back to Alberta.  Most 
of the j**ps were so modified and unsuitable for highway driving that 
they were transported to Georgetown on trucks and trailers 

Rgds,

Walt          * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 
              * Walter C. Swain         | wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us       *
              * Davis Community Network | 1988 Range Rover              * 
              * Davis, California       | 1967 109 Series IIA Safari SW *
              * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Mar 96 07:25:05 UT
From: "Matthew Loxton" <mloxton@msn.com>
Subject: Hummer

Arnold wrote:
<snip>......the Hummer can do more (on the spec sheets) but can't go half the
places that the D can go.....unless you really want to run everything
over..(larger than life).<snip>

While in the Okavongo I noticed this problem. Africa seems to be made for the 
LR which is ever so slightly narrower than most 4x4's. The two problems which 
become very evident are:
1. the tracks fit LR wheel span, and anything wider drives with one wheel in 
the track and on wheel out. This is more hazardous than it sounds, because the 
chances of plowing sand and turning sideways are increased greatly. 
Sideways=roll.
2. On many occasions the tracks pass between trees, sometimes with a couple of 
inches to spare on either side. Beasts like Hummers will have to create their 
own tracks, and this can sometimes imply lengthy detours and other hazards. 
(cutting down the offending tree has been unfashionable since the ox-wagon)

regards
Matthew	SIII
ZA			82 Range-Rover

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 07:16:22 GMT
From: Gerald Tan <gtan@bbchw.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Disco Power

In your message dated Tuesday 5, March 1996 you wrote :
 
> I did these modifications approximately 8 months ago and have been very
> impressed with the results.  In fact, I was sorely tempted to sell the beast
> until I made the mods.  Now, you can^Rt get it out of my dead, cold hands.  

Is this the four-speed ZF gearbox you are referring to? In which case, it'snot 
so much changing the shift points in the box that you have described, but 
changing the shift point on the throttle travel! Gives the car a "spritely" 
feel! I tend to leave the gearstick in "3" for town driving, or hustling along 
country lanes, and only knock it into "D" over 50-55 mph.

> Now,
> if I could just figure out how to control the body roll . . .

Fit Polyeurathene bushes? 

Gerald
-- 
-------------------------------------------------
| Gerald Tan    EMail gtan@bbchw.demon.co.uk    |
| My own opinions, not those of my employer!    |
-------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Mar 1996 08:52:33 +0000 (GMT)
From: hugh.davies@rnb.com (Hugh J.E. Davies)
Subject: Re: Disco questions...

> 3. I want to get a Brush guard/Bull bar. I've heard the LR Genuine is kind of 
>     wimpy.

What? I have a LR bar on my RR and it's a fairly substantial piece of kit. I've
pushed dumpsters around the farmyard with it without problems...

>  4. Is their a digest form of RRO? My attempts to subsribe digest have failed!

Apparently not. Wish there was, tho'.

Hugh.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Mar 1996 08:57:38 +0000 (GMT)
From: hugh.davies@rnb.com (Hugh J.E. Davies)
Subject: Re: Defender 90 vs Jeep CJ

> Being from downunder I dont know much about the rubicon trail, but I do 
> recall reading an article by some guy who took a *stock* rangie over it 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> anywhere the tricked up Jeeps did, just a little more slowly (and 
> comfortably :-) over the really rough bits.

This is the same article I recall. The bits I remember include him rescuing
a couple of Jeeps, and the astonishment of the Jeep owners that he had got
up the trail. I believe he did it in the company of a 110, but not having one
I don't remember that bit.

Hu.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Walsh" <tomw@netcom.com>
Date:          Tue, 5 Mar 1996 00:59:32 +0000
Subject:       Re: Defender 90 vs Jeep CJ

> On Tue, 5 Mar 1996, PremierLe@aol.com wrote:
> >I am very interested in purchasing a Defender 90 for use in Montana. Can any
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
> don't have one...I've only driven my friends'...enough to whet my appetite 
> greatly.

In a recent Rovers North flyer there is a picture of a D90 crawling 
up a big boulder. The caption said something to the efect That the 
D90 made up to cadilac hill conquering the Rubicon trail!

Tomw
---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*
                       Fluent Networks
             "Intelligent Networking Solutions"
Tom Walsh
tomw@netcom.com soon to be tomw@fluentnet.com
95 LR Disco "The Green Monster"
#include <std_disclaim.h>
*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*

------------------------------

From: "Tom Walsh" <tomw@netcom.com>
Date:          Tue, 5 Mar 1996 01:03:57 +0000
Subject:       re: Disco questions...

> hi paul,
> the digest for rro is:  cso-digest (coil spring owners)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> you let me know the nitty gritty of getting the wiring
> through the firewall and installing the switch??

I have PIA 90's I routed the wire through what I think was the 
steering linkage whole ( It was a year ago, but there is definately a 
few areas with rubber boots you can stick a wire through. I used the 
whole to the left of the steering wheel on the dash to mount the 
3 way toggle switch. The wiring is a breeze as compared to some 
Hella's I have on the vehicle! The wire is a tad short but it will 
fit when put in just right.

Tomw
---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*
                       Fluent Networks
             "Intelligent Networking Solutions"
Tom Walsh
tomw@netcom.com soon to be tomw@fluentnet.com
95 LR Disco "The Green Monster"
#include <std_disclaim.h>
*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 07:37:53 -0500
Subject: Mail format, RR vacuum diag.

sorry to be subscribing then unsubscribing, then resubscribing (kind of a
series way of fixing things?), but I was getting this on a per-posting basis.
Hopefully what I did will get it to me as a once per day, digest form. I
don't know if I can handle all the mail (download time) if it comes in
individually.

Oh, well, since I'm here already...
I contacted Andy Blackley, and asked him what I'll ask here-
Does anyone have a diagram that would show the vacuum piping for the carbs (
high compression, advance/retard distributor) on a '84 RR? Andy will probably
be able to help, but I thought I'd see who knows what here. We just got the
vehicle a week and a half ago, and there are obviously some 'bits and
fixings' missing. I wish to time/tune it ASAP, but feel I won't be
accomplishing much if it's not complete as intended. Other than that and some
electrical deficiencies (non-function of guages, lights, etc.) and some need
of inner sill replacement, it is a very nice vehicle, and quite a change from
a series vehicle! We acquired it and then drove it home 1093 miles, no
problems, other than electrical. It was very difficult to find though. It
seems that most owners are not too eager to give them up. But, as they say,
perserverance furthers...  The worst part of it is that it is my wife's new
vehicle!!! It does have a nice ride to it, I must say...
thanx,
Jim '60 P5 (628000165)
       '68 P6 SC Auto
       '68 P6 TC
       '60, '61, '64, '64, '68, '71    LR's, 88"
       '84 RR  (HC)
                 (and one lonely volvo P1800)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Mar 96 7:40:00 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Defender 90 vs Jeep CJ

Darrell,

I bought my 1995 Defender 90 last May. All I can tell you is if you look 
closely at what everyone does to modify a J##P. Stronger transmission, 
stronger transfer case, stronger axles, lower gears, V8, 4 wheel disk 
brakes, Larger tires, etc, etc.

Now think of what all of that costs, and think of how much of that if any 
you will ever get back?

Now look at the Defender specs "out of the box" with a warranty to boot!
V8 aluminum engine, Strong 14 gauge box frame, aluminum body, full time 
4WD with lockable center diff, Strong transmission and (transfer case with 
gearing low enough that you do not need silly low gear ratios in the axle 
diff's where the teeth will constantly break), 4 wheel disk brakes with a 
backup system, coil suspension!, real roll cage that goes thru the body 
and bolts directly to the frame, 265/75R16 BFG M/T tires (32"), Axle 
breathers vented up to the engine compartment, and more.

I have been rock crawling, mudding, you name it. The truck is awesome and 
a decent highway ride to boot. I was going to buy a J##P and build it up, 
but after I saw the Defender there was no comparison.

Land Rovers are also known to last a lifetime if you take care of them. 
LR's are built right from the factory for the roughest usage possible.

Everyone I know of that owns a J##P has had to "extensively" build it up 
to make it really trail worthy. The problem with this is something is 
always breaking. When you modify something to make it stronger it seems 
that (something else usually breaks further down the line)!

Land Rover's have been used exclusively for every Camel Trophy except the 
first when they used J##P's. The J##P'S couldn't take the abuse!

I suggest you drive them both. You should be able to see and feel the 
differences. The J##P felt like a toy to me after driving the D90.

I have added a winch, and air lockers. On really "rough" trail rides the 
Defender crawls effortlessly over obstacles that other vehicles have had 
to power and muscle over, due to lack of low end torque or suspension 
travel limitations. (They had lockers too).

My advice to you is get the Defender, learn it, do a lot of off-roading 
with it (that is what it was designed to do), and live happily ever after 
with a big smile on your face! I have.

Just my two cents worth
Good luck
Barnett
Childress
95 D90 
 

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 07:53:09 -0500
Subject: Re: RR diagrams?

I checked my manual - no diagram. On my RR the vac. line for advance is
connnected to the top of the left carb (driver side), while the retard vac
line is connected at the bottom of the same carb. Both connections are near
the flange to the intake manifold. There are also breather connections, which
are larger diameter, and loc. on the top also, but on the air cleaner side of
the carbs. Non-vac. connections include a balance line between the float
chambers and the fuel lines, both use square tees. I've made a diagram. If
you fax me at work (216) 449-0883, I'll fax it to you. Do you have elec.
ignition or points? I had some prob.s w/ points that made the RR run v. poor
- you must use genuine parts, and ensure that the adv./ retard arm is
attached to the points at the bottom.

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 08:19:00 -0500

age dated 96-03-06 00:47:46 EST, 74245.1226@compuserve.com (Jim
Roth) writes:

>I compared the two and the PH16 is slightly smaller
>physically.  Otherwise, on the insides I gotta take FRAM's word. .  All this
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>The
>bite is also $2.46 at Wal-Mart or $2.99 at Pep Boys

Jim, do you see what the difference is between the PH16 and the PH8A??  I
have used a NAPA filter, and now have a fram PH8A .   Is there really an anti
drain back valve in the PH16? 

 Steve from britpac had this to say a while back:
>>>While the PH8A will fit (although longer and wider), it has no anti
drainback
valve. We used to recommend that filter with our spin-on adapter for the
2.25, but now we use the Fram PH5443. BTW, if you put the Genuine and Fram
filters side by side, you will be able to determine who packages them for
Rover. We sell the Fram PH5443 for $5.34: and while you can't buy them on
sale at K Mart for 2/$5.00 like the PH8A, they're still pretty cheap for a
filter designed for the application.

Steve/BRITPAC>>>

A local parts house couldn't get me a PH5443, so it was either gonna be the
LR dealer for genuine, or call britpac back.  Maybe they'll be able to get a
PH16.

John. D90

------------------------------

Date: 06 Mar 96 08:52:55 EST
From: Jim Roth <74245.1226@compuserve.com>
Subject: V8 Oil Filters

on 6 Marc, JE Purnell wrote:

>Jim, do you see what the difference is between the PH16 and the PH8A??  I
>have used a NAPA filter, and now have a fram PH8A .   Is there really an anti
>drain back valve in the PH16? 

According to the big FRAM interchange/application book (you can ususally find
this at the parts counter) it does have an anti-drain back valve.  The back of
this book also has a lot of interesting info about oil filters and oiling
systems in general.  It also gives specs on every filter they make. I guess that
if LR has OK'd the PH16, the specs shown in the book must be pretty close to the
"Genuine". The folks at the 800 number seemed pretty saavy. The word must have
been out for a little while since he gave me the info with a second's
hesitation. He told me he had fielded tons of questions RE: this subj during the
past week, so he knew it by heart.  Still and all, if you have concerns, you
should call them and ask your specific question.   Rover on...

------------------------------

Date: 06 Mar 96 09:04:35 EST
From: <Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: Re[2]: Disco Power

     Tom 

     
I replaced them with Old Man Emu ( I could put Trac Edge tires on.
     
     Just so I can file it away in my data bank, which size tires, how much 
     lift how's the ride compare to stock?
     chris browne
     

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 53 lines 2087 [forwarded 231 whitespace 473]
 Output: lines 1622 [content 985  forwarded 133 (cut  98) whitespace 437]

Additional Information:

In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved
(by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Useful commands for this are 'index uk-lro-digest' which returns a list of
files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc.

Range Rover World Wide Web Sites start at 
Range Rover Register:	http://www.apricot.co.uk/rel3/directory/rrr/index.html
RoverWeb:	http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/RoverWeb/
Other:		http://www.OpenMarket.com/personal/caloccia/lr/pages.html
Lloyd's		http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/

If Major Domo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

  -B