The Coil Sprung (Land-Rover) Owner List Daily Digest

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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 10:36:40 -0500
From: rbarnes4@utk.edu (Ronald F. Barnes)
Subject: Brake Bleed - ABS

I have a 95 Disco that ready for it's 15K maintenance and plan to 
replace the brake fluid. Is special test equipment required to 
bleed the ABS brakes?  I know other manufacture required test 
equipment to set the valves in the ABS system to be able to 
bleed the brakes.

Ron Barnes

------------------------------

Date:  Sun, 10 Mar 1996 11:11:00 -0500 
From: "christian (c.j.) szpilfogel" <chrisz@bnr.ca>
Subject:  RE: D90 Defrost 

For windshields fogging up it is because there is moisture in the air that
is being blown against a cold wind screen. A heated windshield might be the
final solution but try one of the following first:
  a) ensure snow is clear of the intake vents before you turn on the
     heater
  b) Trying turning on the AC until you have heated the windshield enough
     for it to sustain itself. The AC will not blow cold air in the heater
     position and it will be dry.

Cheers,
  -Christian
   '72 SIII 88"
   '95 Discovery

------------------------------

Christian Szpilfogel
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
chrisz@bnr.ca   Work: (613) 763-5713   FAX:  (613) 765-4855           
---------------------------------------------------------------
My Opinions are my own and you may borrow them, if you wish, 
but I want them back when you're done.

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 12:04:45 -0500
Subject: Re: D90 Defrost 

In a message dated 96-03-10 11:26:21 EST, chrisz@bnr.ca (christian (c.j.)
szpilfogel) writes:

> b) Trying turning on the AC until you have heated the windshield enough
>     for it to sustain itself. The AC will not blow cold air in the heater
>     position and it will be dry.

Though the science behind this idea is sound, the application of it in the
Defender is difficult because the AC ducts blow their air away from the
windshield, the AC is a compleetly separate mechanism, and you can't direct
it up there.  I have tried this method, but haven't noticed it to work.  Just
too much cabin volume for the ac to create dryer air at the boundary layer of
the windshield, add to that the moist defrost air blowing directly on it.
 And or course the warm moist breath of the occupants just add to the
problem.

It really is a problem in rainy weather, the inside just mists up like the
tropics.  

John, 94 D90.

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 12:05:44 -0500
Subject: Re: RR- '89 NAS fault code display

In a message dated 96-03-09 22:33:50 EST, you write:

>Can't seem to find mine.
>Thanks guys.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>'89 NAS RR
>It does go off road!!

Maybe it fell off with all that bumping offroad?

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 15:11:55 -0500
Subject: Re: RR- '89 NAS (lack of a) fault code display

>Am I blind, technically illiterate or simply not there?  Do all '89 NAS
>Rangies have a fault code display (box?)?  Can't seem to find mine.

The '87-'88 NAS RR's had a Lucas 13CU EFI computer, in '89 they got the newer
14CU computer.  The fault code display did not appear until the 14CUX
computer on '90 models.

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Marit_=26_Bj=F8rnung?= <bjjen13b@telepost.no>
Subject: RR EFI fault code display unit
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 22:03:03 +-100

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I am not sure if I have seen all meassages about this subject, but I was =
not aware of any such unit, apart from the dealer workshop unit. Do they =
exist here in Europe? If so, could someone help me with the part number =
if they can be retrofitted. (yes, I have a 14CUX unit without any =
display unit, exept for the EFI warning lamp.)

Bjornung Jensen
Norway
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 13:20:18 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: D90 Defrost 

On Sun, 10 Mar 1996 PurnellJE@aol.com wrote:
> And or course the warm moist breath of the occupants just add to the
> problem.
> It really is a problem in rainy weather, the inside just mists up like the
> tropics.  

Too bad the windshields on the '94 and '95 NAS D90s can't *fold down* 
like the old Series LRs! ;-)

David

'94 D90 in the "tropic of Seattle"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 16:46:55 -0500
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Defroster Performance

Back in early winter as part of the fix to my fouled plug problem, I
replaced the RN recommended Bosch W7DC spark plugs with factory manual
recommended Champion RN12YC.

This hotter plug resulted in the temperture gauge climbing higher resulting
in a little extra heat output.

My gauge has gone as high as 1/3 up the white scale toward the red.

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover
Newport New Hampshire
603-863-7883

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 18:15:55 -0500
From: Andrew Dobrowolski <andrewd@netside.com>
Subject: Hydraulic lifters

I have an 88 RR which has about 130000 miles on it.  The hydraulic 
lifters are beginning to get noisy especially after a bout of cold 
weather.  I am planning to replace the lifters and have heard that RR 
3.5l camshafts wear easily.  I am wondering if it is worthwhile 
replacing the camshaft and chain etc. at the same time?

Is there anyone who has done a similar job and has any tips or advice?

Andrew

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 08:19:12 +0800
From: Oscar <omont@mnl.sequel.net>
Subject: Re: RR- '89 NAS (lack of a) fault code display

>Am I blind, technically illiterate or simply not there?  Do all '89 NAS
>Rangies have a fault code display (box?)?  Can't seem to find mine.

The '87-'88 NAS RR's had a Lucas 13CU EFI computer, in '89 they got the newer
14CU computer.  The fault code display did not appear until the 14CUX
computer on '90 models.

Kevin Kelly

=======================

Ah, not blind....not there....

Can one be installed.  It would make life easier especially in a country
where there's no dealer or service or parts.

Thanks again.

Oscar
omont@mnl.sequel.net
'89 NAS RR
It does go off road!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 17:51:49 -0700
From: "Lee Zeltzer" <lzeltzer@isdnet.com>
Subject: Headlight switch on D90

Last night I tried to turn on my headlights and discovered a floppy 
switch and no lights. Before I visit my not so local dealer, I was 
wondering if anyone else has had the flimsy plastic arm break and how it 
was handled.
Thanks.
-- 
Lee Zeltzer, Senior Consultant
Innovative System Design
100 N. Stone Ave. #605
Tucson, AZ 85701
lzeltzer@isdnet.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 15:35:47 -1000
From: "ROGER HALL: HNL M.E. GROUP" <ROGER_H@verifone.com>
Subject: electric seat motor problem

Oscar and anyone else with rr electric seat maintenance experience,

I have an '89 as well with a passenger seat that won't move front-to-back.  The 
dealer told me the problem was with the switch, but when I checked it, the
motor appeared to be trying to move the seat but couldn't.  there is a box
under the seat towards the front with a number of sleeved cables attached to it
that look like speedometer cables.  I'm not sure what it the cables are for,
but it appears to be transferring power mechanically to gearing that perform
specific seat movement functions.  

Now I can't see how this is the case, because the torque needed to move a seat
must be well beyond what these cables can handle.  But what I do see is one of
the cables twitching when I engage the front-to-back switch.  

Do you know what's going on or how I could diagnose the problem?  I'd
appreciate any feedback you could provide. 

Roger
'89RR
roger_h@verifone.com

From:	IN%"omont@mnl.sequel.net"  "Oscar"  8-MAR-1996 20:59:38.88
To:	IN%"rro@land-rover.team.net"
CC:	
Subj:	RR-servicing elec. seat controls

Just worked on the inoperative electric seat controls and learned something...

The switch has many ball bearings that  pop out during reassembly.  To ease
your  reassembly pains, use heavy grease (or similar) on top of the springs
that the bearings sit on.  Do the same on the slots the sliders sit on.

 

Oscar
omont@mnl.sequel.net
'89 NAS RR
It does go off road!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 15:50:05 -1000
From: "ROGER HALL: HNL M.E. GROUP" <ROGER_H@verifone.com>
Subject: RR electric seat motors

Oscar and anyone else with rr electric seat maintenance experience,

I have an '89 as well with a passenger seat that won't move front-to-back.  The 
dealer told me the problem was with the switch, but when I checked it, the
motor appeared to be trying to move the seat but couldn't.  there is a box
under the seat towards the front with a number of sleeved cables attached to it
that look like speedometer cables.  I'm not sure what it the cables are for,
but it appears to be transferring power mechanically to gearing that perform
specific seat movement functions.  

Now I can't see how this is the case, because the torque needed to move a seat
must be well beyond what these cables can handle.  But what I do see is one of
the cables twitching when I engage the front-to-back switch.  

Do you know what's going on or how I could diagnose the problem?  I'd
appreciate any feedback you could provide. 

Roger
'89RR
roger_h@verifone.com

From:	IN%"omont@mnl.sequel.net"  "Oscar"  8-MAR-1996 20:59:38.88
To:	IN%"rro@land-rover.team.net"
CC:	
Subj:	RR-servicing elec. seat controls

Just worked on the inoperative electric seat controls and learned something...

The switch has many ball bearings that  pop out during reassembly.  To ease
your  reassembly pains, use heavy grease (or similar) on top of the springs
that the bearings sit on.  Do the same on the slots the sliders sit on.

 

Oscar
omont@mnl.sequel.net
'89 NAS RR
It does go off road!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 16:05:59 -1000
From: "ROGER HALL: HNL M.E. GROUP" <ROGER_H@verifone.com>
Subject: RR electric seat problem

Oscar and anyone else with rr electric seat maintenance experience,

I have an '89 as well with a passenger seat that won't move front-to-back.  The 
dealer told me the problem was with the switch, but when I checked it, the
motor appeared to be trying to move the seat but couldn't.  there is a box
under the seat towards the front with a number of sleeved cables attached to it
that look like speedometer cables.  I'm not sure what it the cables are for,
but it appears to be transferring power mechanically to gearing that perform
specific seat movement functions.  

Now I can't see how this is the case, because the torque needed to move a seat
must be well beyond what these cables can handle.  There must be individual
motors for each function.  But what I do see is one of the cables twitching
when I engage the front-to-back switch.  

Do you know what's going on or how I could diagnose the problem?  I'd
appreciate any feedback you could provide. 

Roger
'89RR
roger_h@verifone.com

From:	IN%"omont@mnl.sequel.net"  "Oscar"  8-MAR-1996 20:59:38.88
To:	IN%"rro@land-rover.team.net"
CC:	
Subj:	RR-servicing elec. seat controls

Just worked on the inoperative electric seat controls and learned something...

The switch has many ball bearings that  pop out during reassembly.  To ease
your  reassembly pains, use heavy grease (or similar) on top of the springs
that the bearings sit on.  Do the same on the slots the sliders sit on.

 

Oscar
omont@mnl.sequel.net
'89 NAS RR
It does go off road!!

--RAA01823.826508420/mail1.best.com--

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------------------------------

From: "Tom Walsh" <tomw@netcom.com>
Date:          Sat, 9 Mar 1996 18:36:02 +0000
Subject:       re:Rear jack/fuel carrier GREEN MONSTER

I've been getting a lot of requests to post some pics, and describe 
some of the mods I've done.

I am planning on soon getting some pics scanned in and kinda writing 
up what I've done ( hey I'm lazy :)

I will try to drum up before and after shots of OME lift and Trac 
edges ( don't think I can do that for everything though )

It would be nice if I could get them on Ben's and Dixon's Rover Webb 
Page ( Ben, Where are you ? )

In short:

The gas tanks ( I can mount up to two ( one on top of each other ) )
are mounted on the Land Rover roof ladder ( with the aid of a normal 
gas can holder attached to the ladder, and several very sturdy rachet 
type straps, I put plastic hose on a few rungs of the ladder to help 
everything mate nice'n cushion'y. I have gone off-road frequently and 
so far its held up real nicely ( I had concerns at first, but I've 
had the setup for almost a year now, I ussually leave one tank on 
around town and on most quickie trips ).

The high lift had been inside in the back secured in a way that was 
thrashing my rear interior ever so slightly ( but continously ).

I finally got to thinking ( whats burning :) I got two of the 
standard high lift jack mounts and if you look at the rear bumper from 
the side in a cross sectional kinda way, it is shape like a "U" on 
its side ( with the open part facing into the disco rear end ( 
actually its not a real "U" but close enough for discusion ) mount 
the two high lift hangers by drilling the appropriate holes on the 
bottom of the bumper ( on "_" <- that part of the side ways "U" ) )

You gotta study it a bit, but when you do you'll see it right away, 
this "_" bottom part of the "U" is actually at a slight angle, this 
is good, because it still allows you to use the trailer hitch! be 
careful to not do anything stupid like put it in the way of the 
opening door :) ( also the only place you can put em is about six 
inches away ( equidistant ) from the receiver hitch gizmo, else you 
have no clearence clarence to get your fingys in and turn the bolts! 
) The position has another added benifit ( which I am 
patenting :) it works great as an anti tailgating device :) I'd 
sooner let em bend the $35 dollar high lift jack mounts, or a $55 High 
lift jack then have to pry em off my trailer hitch receptacle :) or 
whack into my "flimsy-not" 14 gauge steel frame " :)

Here is some real bad ascii art which by definition of murhpys law 
will get screwed up and make it look like you mount it on the radio 
antenna or a lug nut of the tire or something :)

Bumper
   v
  --
    ]/o
  --/
      ^
     Jack

> Tom,
> Your Disco sounds great!  to see someone pushing the envelope with a 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
> ARB dual air lockers
> sway bars removed
---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*
                       Fluent Networks
             "Intelligent Networking Solutions"
Tom Walsh
tomw@netcom.com soon to be tomw@fluentnet.com
95 LR Disco "The Green Monster"
#include <std_disclaim.h>
*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 20:19:30 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Quarterly AW? (was: Joining LROA, was: AW)

At 02:47 PM 3/10/96 -0500, Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> wrote:

:: The Aluminum Workhorse (AW) is the quarterly magazine and voice of the
:: Land Rover Owners' Association (LROA), going strong with 650+ members
:: in North America.  Contact Bob Bernard at <bobnsueb@maxinet.com> for
:: further membership info.
:
:	I seem to recall the last quarterly issue was dated Spring 1995,
:	at least that slid past my eyes.  I hear that there may have been
:	a Summer issue that came out in November 1995.  Even better, 
:	I hear that the Fall 1995 Issue may be mailed out in the near
:       future. Comments on quarterly?

 Oh geeeez, I figured maybe someone would take this literally! :)

 Admittedly the current issue is WAY late, caused in part by the
 changeover to a new administration.  But bear with us, we hope to catch
 up with another issue soon and then establish strict publication dates.
 No one will be shortchanged in their membership subscriptions, which if
 need be will be extended.

 On a constructive, participatory note...  The Aluminum Workhorse needs
 support in submission of member articles and photographs, especially
 from all the usually quiet people in the East Coast --Canada, and north,
 mid and south USA.  Most any topic of interest to LROA members is
 welcome.  If you have an idea which will be an epic saga or treatise,
 please notify the Editor ahead of time.  For now send your stuff to
 John Hess (the Pres.!), 1615 Colusa Ave., Davis, CA 95616 USA.

 PS-- We want to hear from RR, Disco, and Defender owners too ;)

 Cheers,

-Michael Carradine
 VP pro tem, LROA

                         ______
 Michael Carradine       [__[__\==                    Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900            [________]               Land-Rover Roughmobile
 cs@crl.com  __________.._(o)__.(o)____...o^^^  '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88")
 _______________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page:   http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 08:26:59 UT
From: "Matthew Loxton" <mloxton@msn.com>
Subject: lens water

Andrew wrote...<snip.> I was told by someone that it's normal that the tail 
lenses on my D90  
have some water in them.<snip>..

This, in fact, is a standard feature of the "City" model as opposed to the 
"County". The Solihull design team correctly identified the need for 
water-cooled brake lights for use in city environments where the brake light 
is on for extended periods. It can be ordered from most LR outlets, as can the 
top-up kit consisting of (a)One litre of Lens-Water, (b)Utensils, pouring, 
(c.) grease, dielectric.

Matthew
ZA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 06:46:24 UT
From: "Matthew Loxton" <mloxton@msn.com>
Subject: drive train

My 82 Rangie (obviously) has the old *clunk-thunk* drive train, has anyone any 

ideas on the feasibility of replacing it with the silent Morse-chain drive? 

Cheers
Matthew ZA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 7:39:05 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:JE 4.5

Oscar,
The 94 D90 with the Dakar 4.5L that I drove at RN was Mike Hopwoods. When 
I asked him why he swapped engines he told me better off and on road 
performance. A win  situation he felt. Driving left me with the following 
impressions;

Off road the truck had lots of low end torque. The 4.5L also had a very 
wide, flat power band. On road there was plenty of response when you 
touched the gas. The sound of the engine was lower more like a big 
American V8, and was very smooth at idle, a nice purring sound.

I noticed the difference most at the end of the day when I switched to my 
95 D90 for the ride back to the hotel.

Honestly for me anyhow the original engine does everything I need. I think 
I would consider the 4.5L Dakar only if I had some sort of major engine 
trouble and was swapping anyhow. Seeing as you already have one though...

I hope this helps. If you have any other questions feel free!

Barnett 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 8:00:35 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Headlight switch on D90

Lee,

Are you sure the switch is broken, and not just loose in the column?

Very easy to check if you haven't already done so.

Remove the top and bottom plastic covers around the steering column. The 
switch, if I remember correctly is held in place by only one screw? or 
maybe just sits between the plastic tabs? Make sure the switch is seated 
properly.

Check the wires and make sure one hasn't come loose with the switch 
flopping around. I have the same switch installed on the opposite side of 
the column for the air lockers. I remember the switch being a pretty 
sturdy piece?

Good luck
Barnett

------------------------------

From: "Ruffer, Richard" <rufferr@moodys.com>
Subject: D90 Defrost
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 10:01:00 EST

Barnett -

I saw the heated windshield in a Rovers North catalog, which a number of 
folks have already mentioned.

I also have a line on heated side mirrors for a D90 or 110.  I saw them in 
an ad in the back of Land Rover Owner International.  "A self adhesive 
element attached to the back of the mirror that warms the
glass.  Kit includes elements, wire, switch, instructions."
24.50 British Pounds
Plowman Trading Co.
phone (in U.K.): 01904-768230

Regards,
Rich Ruffer
Morristown, NJ
94 D90 in Blue (how many blue ones are there?  I've never seen another on 
the road)

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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Lloyd's			http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/

If Major Domo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

  -B