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The Coil Sprung (Land-Rover) Owner List Daily Digest
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------------------------------
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Date: 11 Mar 96 10:40:14 EST
From: <Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: Strange Rover accessory spotted in ME
Was in Brunswick ME on Friday (lovely drive up on in Thursday in the
snow) and spotted a white ME reg RR complete with Snow plough
attachement in the stop and save parking lot.
Anyone know anything about this?
Chris B
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From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 08:17:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Dealer loaners all the time?
For any warranty work which takes a day or more we get a free
loaner.
On Mar 8, 7:25pm, PurnellJE@aol.com wrote:
> Subject: Dealer loaners all the time?
snipola
>-- End of excerpt from PurnellJE@aol.com
--
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838
------------------------------
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From: lenagham@inetmail.bachman.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 11:45:37 EST
Subject: Re: D90 Defrost
Early last year there were a number of messages posted about RR
windscreens fogging up. The early NAS RRs had a heating ventilation
system that sounds somewhat similar to the D90 - i.e the A/C is not
integrated with heating system. There is a solenoid on the RR that
controls whether or not the heating system is working is recirc vs
fresh input, if this solenoid does not function properly then people
were having "fogging" problems as the system was stuck in recirc mode.
The A/C in these RRs only worked in Recirc mode.
I dug through my records and resurected the following message I posted
on the subject. Someone had asked what would happen if they tied the
flap open so the system always worked in fresh air mode - thus
avoiding their fogging problem.
The A/C on the early US spec RR's was kind of an add-on and wasn't
integrated with the heater system as you would normally expect.
I think what will happen, as a result of tying open the fresh air flap
(this is to get round the malfunctioning solenoid problem), is as
follows:
Outside air will be coming into the vehicle through the
heater/demister vents at all times. When the heater control is in any
position other than A/C the fan control works the heater fan and
forces the outside air (heated or not depending on temp setting
control) through the heater/demister vents. If the fan is switched off
you still get air flow (ram effect) but it is not very good. When you
put the control to A/C you will still have this ram effect air flow
through the heater/demister since you have tied up the flap which is
normally closed when you activate the A/C.
So what is the A/C doing? The fan switch is now operating the 2 A/C
fans under the dash. The A/C is still drawing air from inside the car
through the fans to the evaporator (where it is dehumidified and
cooled) and out through the vents. So the net effect will probably be
that the A/C is being fed a mixture of external air and internal air.
I think this is analagous to a standard a/c system set to normal
operation. The result will be that the A/C is less efficient. Car
systems normally instruct you to put the A/C on in MAX or RECIRC mode
until the car is cooled down then revert to normal mode, you miss out
on the MAX mode because you've disconnected the recirc flap.
I think the owners manual for the RR used to say that after the
vehicle cools down to move the temp selector slightly towards warm.
This was supposed to have the effect of having some of the air in the
car drawn through the heater box and warmed slightly, remember it
would still be dehumidified, thus when it was drawn into the A/C
system it would help keep the evaporator from freezing. This never
seems to have worked for me as on long journeys the evaporator always
freezes up and water droplets get blown through the vents. I have to
switch off the A/C to let it defrost!
Hope this helps.
Regards
Mike Lenaghan
87 Range Rover
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 11:50:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Quarterly AW? (was: Joining LROA, was: AW)
On Sun, 10 Mar 1996, Michael Carradine wrote:
> Oh geeeez, I figured maybe someone would take this literally! :)
Of course you know that I would... :-) If you wish, not only
can I expound on AW's publication record, but that of ROAV, BSROA,
Solihull Society, LRC (Victoria, Aus) while I am at it (OVLR of
course too... <grin>). As I have long said, the most important
thing for any newsletter is that it appears in the members mailbox
on time. If it doesn't...
> Admittedly the current issue is WAY late, caused in part by the
> changeover to a new administration. But bear with us, we hope to catch
> up with another issue soon and then establish strict publication dates.
> No one will be shortchanged in their membership subscriptions, which if
> need be will be extended.
ALROC...
Rgds,
------------------------------
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From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 12:36:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Headlight switch on D90
In a message dated 96-03-11 08:10:40 EST, you write:
>Are you sure the switch is broken, and not just loose in the column?
>Very easy to check if you haven't already done so.
Thanks Barnett. I'm gonna check that on mine too, as mine is getting loose.
John.
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From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 12:35:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Headlight switch on D90
In a message dated 96-03-10 20:03:38 EST, you write:
>Last night I tried to turn on my headlights and discovered a floppy
>switch and no lights. Before I visit my not so local dealer, I was
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>--
>Lee Zeltzer, Senior Consultant
Mine feels like it is heading that way also, I read somewhere else that
someone had theirs burn out on them, but mine feels like it's breaking...
John, 94 D90
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 14:57:35 -0500
From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi)
Subject: Disco Spoiler mods and Qs.
I finally got around to removing the front air dam on my '95 Disco
(Hercules). Pretty simple to do, just remove 7 or so bolts from up under
the front bumper, a few screws attaching the dam to the bumper end caps,
and off she came. This left the bumper end caps hanging a bit low, so a
quick pass with a hacksaw and file removed the bits and smoothed it out.
This material was amazingly easy to cut, by the way. Total time for the
mods - about 20 minutes. I think it looks pretty good, and it is a big
improvement in approach angle. I have ramps, so driving the front up on
them made access pretty easy, despite the cold weather. (Thanks to Mark
Ritter for the modification!)
A couple of questions. One of my bumper end caps is loose. These are held
on by two screws, one in front and one buried under an L-shaped bracket on
the side. Has anyone got any ideas on how to get to the one that's buried?
Has anyone bought or seen the steering protectors offered in the UK for
discos (for example by Performance). They are 5mm aluminum waffle plate.
I'm planning on ordering, but I'd sure like to hear from someone that has
them, to speak to fit and ease of installation. Right now, my front is
looking might vulnerable without all that plastic armoring! ;-)
-Bob Virzi
rvirzi@gte.com Think Globally. ===
+1(617)466-2881 === Act Locally!
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Date: 11 Mar 96 15:09:59 EST
From: <Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: Re[3]: I need an opinion on piston rings
Re AJR's ring problem
Dave wrote
Pour some gas or oil in each cylinder and see how long it takes to leak
through.
Alan: Please don't do this in a confined space or with any open flames
etc. I don't want to part out you or your land rover!
Chris B
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 15:17:34 -0500
From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi)
Subject: Disco Oil Changes
I don't think it is reasonable to go 7500 miles on the same oil, plus I
like to putter on the truck, so I changed the oil and filter in my '95
disco this weekend. In the manual, if I read it right, the correct
procedure is:
1. Drain old oil
2. Replace plug and refill
3. Remove old oil filter
4. replace with partially filled new filter
5. Start engine.
I followed this procedure and I wasn't happy with the results. First, when
changing the filter, the drizzle of oil never quite stopped, and I wasn't
convinced new oil wasn't siphoning out. And the OIL light seemed to stay
on longer with this procedure that the more standard one of drain oil,
remove filter, button up and top off. Finally, it only took 6 qts to
refill, whereas I remember more like 7 using my standard method. (I know,
I know, its my own fault for reading the manual.)
So why does the manual suggest the more complicated method? Is it worth
following? Does anyone believe that the dealers follow this method?
-Bob
rvirzi@gte.com Think Globally. ===
+1(617)466-2881 === Act Locally!
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 15:55:53 EST
From: rdl@NomuraNY.COM (Rob Legerio)
Subject: Re: Disco Oil Changes
Bob,
I find it wierd too but, the D90 manual says that if you
don't do it the recommended way, you may end up having to re-prime
the oil pump.
Rob
94 D90
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From: "Tom Walsh" <tomw@netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 13:02:11 +0000
Subject: Re: Disco Spoiler mods and Qs.
> I finally got around to removing the front air dam on my '95 Disco
I did this about 6 months ago after putting an ARB on. I actaully
remounted the air damn and left it in place until it became a plow in
a mud pit I was going through ( it doesn't work well as a plow! )
Needless to say its off ( I think I found most of the air damn pieces in the
mud ! ( its a 95 so its less substantial than the 96's with the light
in them ) )
I have bee recently researching the armor options.
Brittish pacific is expecting a shipment of front steering and diff
protectors in within a month as is rovers north. I called and faxed
southdown 4x4 products in england last week to inquire about theres
but they didn't answer the phone or respond to my fax? I am going to
call safari gaurd today.
> Has anyone bought or seen the steering protectors offered in the UK for
> discos (for example by Performance). They are 5mm aluminum waffle plate.
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> looking might vulnerable without all that plastic armoring! ;-)
> -Bob Virzi
---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*
Fluent Networks
"Intelligent Networking Solutions"
Tom Walsh
tomw@netcom.com soon to be tomw@fluentnet.com
95 LR Disco "The Green Monster"
#include <std_disclaim.h>
*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*
------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 13:35:06 -0700
From: Paul Orland <paulor@chs.com>
Subject: Re: Pedestrains Bull Bars
At 09:01 AM 3/9/96 -0700, Tebbin Salvesen wrote:
>seems to me that 3 TONS is 3 TONS plastic and aluminum don't come in to
>play it is mass that is at issue!
Most physics classes will teach the difference between elastic and
non-elastic collisions and the energy dissipated by each. Crumpling of
aluminium and plastic dissipates energy that might otherwise be used to
crumple your bones. Deflecting of impact will also make a huge difference!
- Paul.
------------------------------
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From: HalatGRM@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 16:40:53 -0500
Subject: Fwd: Car and Driver
In a message dated 96-03-08 16:23:33 EST, morison@alumni.caltech.edu writes:
>Subj: Re: Car and Driver
>Date: 96-03-08 16:23:33 EST
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 33 lines)]
> Janine
> (& Rod... I have turned my husband into a LR enthusiast)
---------------------
Forwarded message:
From: morison@alumni.caltech.edu
To: HalatGRM@aol.com
Date: 96-03-08 16:23:33 EST
> Car and Driver for April came yesterday with a sport utility comparison.
>Date: 96-03-08 16:23:33 EST
The
> results:
>
> 1st place: Toyota 4runner
> (snip...)
> 6: Land Rover Discovery SD
> (more snipping)
Remeber to read this as CAR and DRIVER, not OFF ROAD and ADVENTURER!
Geez, these on-road vehicles which have never seen dirt tests are getting
rather silly at best.
I read lots of African Travel books and the only two vehicle they mention
are Land Rovers (all types, old and new) and Toyota Land *Cruisers*.
These tests are just plain silly. If you want to see real comparisons
I suggest you read the Australian magazine: Overlander. That magazine
does real testing of 4 wheel drives that makes logical sense.
BTW- I caught 60 minutes with an interview of Richard Leaky and he
was shown driving a Disco in Kenya.
Janine
(& Rod... I have turned my husband into a LR enthusiast)
------------------------------
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From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: RE: Car and Driver, etc
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 14:02:21 -0800
I thought it interesting that neither Four Wheeler nor Petersen's 4WD
included the Discovery in thier tests, rather they chose the RR 4.0SE.
Was this just so the JGC wouldn't have any REAL competition and have a
chance at winning?!?!? (hmmm, do I smell a conspiricy? :-) It must be
difficult trying to please all those American SUV advertisers. Just
remember that the 2 favorite "long-term test" vehicles for Four Wheeler
are the D-90 and the Disco!
Wouldn't it be interesting to take some of the C&D "best autos" to
Hollister SRVA for a review? Imagine a Dodge Caravan trying to follow a
Disco on an off-road course! Catch me if you can! Seems as fitting as
using best auto criteria for an off-road vehicle. :-)
_____
/|__|_\__(| Bob Watson
| | | \ a-robw@microsoft.com
|---|___|___\____ Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA
| _|=3D |=3D |o_ }\
[|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}| '95 Beluga Black Discovery
\_/ \_/ N7UMU
=00
------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 21:45:33 GMT
From: Gerald Tan <gtan@bbchw.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Hydraulic Lifters
The camshaft and lifters should be renewed together, if a Rover V8 isn't looked
after with frequent oil changes, then the camshaft is prone to wear.
Also change the timing chain while you are at it. Take front timing chain cover
off, remove radiator, and you will be able to pull the camshaft out. You will
also need to remove carbs/EFi to get to the valley where the lifters are. Squirt
clean oil into the lifters before fitting.
Gerald
--
-------------------------------------------------
| Gerald Tan EMail gtan@bbchw.demon.co.uk |
| My own opinions, not those of my employer! |
-------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 16:15:03 -0700 (MST)
From: Tebbin Salvesen <tsalves@slcpl.slcpl.lib.ut.us>
Subject: Re: Pedestrains Bull Bars
On Mon, 11 Mar 1996, Paul Orland wrote:
POINT MISSED!!!!
> At 09:01 AM 3/9/96 -0700, Tebbin Salvesen wrote:
> >seems to me that 3 TONS is 3 TONS plastic and aluminum don't come in to
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> crumple your bones. Deflecting of impact will also make a huge difference!
> - Paul.
------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 20:50:28 EST
From: rdl@NomuraNY.COM (Rob Legerio)
Subject: Re: D90 Poor Defroster
> I suggest you use your 39.00 for the radiator muff to take your loved one,
> the person who must endure the passenger seat for all those hours so you can
> have your thrill of D90-ing, and take them out for a nice dinner with wine,
> and bring a flower too.
But it was my loved one who gave me (or rather my 90) a RN radiator muff
last Xmas. BTW, John described my expierences with the muff exactly.
I think it may work better on non-AC vehicles where it will make more
of a difference in front of the radiator. What would probably make a
big diff in warm up time would be an electric fan setup such as
the Kenlow. Has anyone out there gone to one of these setups ? It's
supposed to save on gas too.
Rob
94 D90
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From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Disco Oil Changes
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 14:35:46 +1030 (CDT)
Robert A. Virzi writes about oil changing the rover V8:
> So why does the manual suggest the more complicated method? Is it worth
> following?
The answer to the second question, is another question. How much do you
like pulling the oil-pump to bits to re-prime it ?
The Rover V8 has the unfortunate capability of draining the oil-pump
completely on changes, the gear pump wont pick up the fresh oil once it
is completely drained, at least not with normal cranking.
It is *Very* important to swap the oil filter with a pre-filled one quite
quickly, or you risk draining the pump, the idea of filling the sump
before changing the filter is to reduce the amount of oil which drains
back down the pickup.
While I dont pre-fill the sump i do pre-fill the filter and fit it as
soon as the outflow slows, I dont let the pump fully drain. (well I did
once :-(
If the pump does fully drain the factory method of repriming is to open
it up and pack it with white petroleum grease..... There are easier
ways, some messier than others :-)
I'll save these for another discussion
cheers
--
Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)
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From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 00:03:04 -0500
Subject: BMW 4x4?
There has been a lot of talk of BMW NA rebadging a Disco or other Land Rovers
to sell in the U.S. (like Honda is doing in Japan).
The March BMW club magazine came in the mail today and had an interview with
Bernard Pischetsrieder the chairman of BMW AG in Germany. When he was asked
if BMW would produce a sport utility vehicle he responded "Land Rover
produces a full range of sport utility vehicles, the Land Rover Defender, the
Land Rover Discovery and Range Rovers. No need to wait for others to finally
develop or rebadge an existing vehicle. Within our own family of brands are
the authentic sport utilities and they are available today."
The rumor is BMW may change its mind if the new Mercedes AAV (due in '97) is
a hot seller and/or if the percentage of SUV's sold in the U.S. continues to
rise. Last year 42% of all passenger vehicles sold in the U.S. (49% of the
big 3 sales) were SUV's, minivan's, and light trucks. The good news for us
is that there are rumors that BMW/Land Rover is planning to increase the
number of Land Rover dealerships nationwide.
Kevin Kelly
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 10:39:06 GMT
From: "T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Kenlowe Electric Fans
> of a difference in front of the radiator. What would probably make a
> big diff in warm up time would be an electric fan setup such as
> the Kenlow. Has anyone out there gone to one of these setups ? It's
> supposed to save on gas too.
I fitted a twin-fan Kenlowe kit to my 90 TD a couple of weeks ago after the
viscous fan coupling finally self-destructed.
The engine certainly warms up more quickly than before, and the heater gets
hotter. Engine noise is also reduced, and it seems to rev more freely,
although I can't say I've detected an increase in performance. Fuel
consumption is improved though; I can normally go 300 miles between
fill-ups, whereas before I fitted the fans the interval was about 260. I
wish I'd done it sooner!
-------------------------------------
Tom Stevenson gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station
Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel 01475 530581
Fax 01475 530601
-------------------------------------
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From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 06:18:01 +0100
Subject: Wading plugs for Discos
Are there any places that you need to fit wading plugs on a
Discovery? The varying answers I have so far are:
On Tdi the timing belt has a wading plug.
Manual transmissions have one on the clutch housing.
Automatic transmissions have one on the torque convertor that needs
to be closed when going through mud.
I'm open to more answers. My concern is with my NAS V8 automatic.
--
Gerald
Massachusetts, U.S.
g@ix.netcom.com
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 96 7:11:44 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Disco Oil Changes
>Bob Virzi askes what gives with the owners manual directions on oil
changes?
Bob,
I change my oil and filter every 5000 miles. I use Mobil 1 Synthetic and I
feel the extra 2000 miles is not a problem. I agree 7500 miles seems a bit
long between oil changes.
Anyhow;
1) -Remove oil filler cap and oil pan plug, drain oil and look out for the
flood! Replace plug with new copper washer that comes with new filter.
2) -Remove filter let drain, fill new filter about 1/2 full with new oil
and lube rubber gasket. Refit filter.
3) -Refill engine with new oil, (Approx. 6 quarts).
4) -Start and run engine for a few minutes.
5) -Shut off engine and wait for oil to drain back into sump. Check level
and top off. Total refill with new filter is about (6.75 to 7 quarts).
Thats the way I change my oil. The dealer tells me they do the same. As
for the ass backwards directions in the owners manual...Hey IT'S A LAND
ROVER!
Rember; because "It's a Land Rover" you will be down about a quart of oil
for every 3000 miles. (Even if it doesn't leak!)
Cheers,
Barnett
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 96 7:53:08 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: oil changes/electric fans.
Hi all,
I was not aware of the possibility of draining the oil pump. Have I just
been lucky so far because I always fill my new filter with oil? I could
swear the dealer told me the way I was changing my oil was o.k.?
About electric fans; I see only good things about more heat and better
mileage in a Defender!
A few questions though;
Do you normally wire an electric fan with a cut off switch? For example
wading in deep water you could switch off the fan so you don't spray the
engine?
That would seem to be a benefit especially with NAS spec. gas engines?
I would like to make my Defender as "water proof" as possible. Any ideas
out there? Can you seal up the ECU in some sort of water tight box or does
it need to dissipate heat? Has anyone figured out a way to fit a snorkel
kit to a NAS spec. gas V8 Defender?
Just wondering
Barnett
------------------------------
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END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST
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