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The Coil Sprung (Land-Rover) Owner List Daily Digest
Send Submissions uk-lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net
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From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 10:12:10 -0500
Subject: Re: New to RRO list!!
In a message dated 96-03-12 22:31:53 EST, you write:
> I would also like to know if I can purchase a keyless entry clicker from
>Land-Rover, as the one for my RR is missing!!!
Can you imagine what the LRO list would've done with THIS one!!
John.
94 Defender 90 style
(David, this is a joke regarding a recent list uproar, it probably doesn't
make sense to you yet...)
------------------------------
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 96 10:20:25 EST
From: rdl@NomuraNY.COM (Rob Legerio)
Subject: Re: D-90 Hood release trick.
I've seen alot of postings relating to the D90 hood release. My late 94 D90
came with the hood release already on the driver side. I've seen some D90s
with it on the psngr side and some that had it relocated to the driver side
durring AC installation. From what I gather, almost everybody with the long
cable (drivers side) setup has had trouble. Mine failed at the handle assembly.
The cable housing slid passed the point where it was crimped inside the
metal tube of the assembly. Instead of taking it back to the dealer
to just get the same thing put in again (is this what they do?), I fixed it
myself and made some changes that seem to have worked out well.
Basicaly, I replaced the OEM cable housing with a high quality bicycle cable
housing. The housing has a teflon liner tube. The OEM housing also has a liner
but the cable doesn't slide as easily in it. On the ends of the housing I put
stainless steel end caps and then aluminum ferrules that are used on top of
bicycle brake levers. On the handle side, the ferrule butts up against the
end of the handle tube, so it's no longer crimped inside it. I also slipped a
heavy spring over the metal tube. It fits tight and extends past the end of the
tube a little way over the housing. It holds the ferrule centered on the end of
the tube and keeps the housing from kinking there. On the latch end, I machined
the ferrule so it fit into the cable stop.
I shot some Teflon Tri-Flow down the housing untill it ran out the other end
before final assembly. When I put it all back, I made sure all the bends were
as smooth as possible and that the cable was tied down is as many locations
as possible to keep it stiff. It's worked great ever since.
Just thought I'd share a home grown fix,
Rob
94 D90
P.S. - The housing I used was Stroh Crystal cable housing. You purchase it
by the foot. The liner comes separately as well as the end caps and
ferrules. I bought it some years back while building a bike for my
sister. Lucky for me, I bought a big roll and had a long length left
over. The place I got it from only sells pre-packaged cable setups
now, so the lengths would be too short. Somebody must still sell it
by the foot. A trip to your local bike should help to locate a current
source.
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 96 10:47:21 EST
From: rdl@NomuraNY.COM (Rob Legerio)
Subject: Re: Monitoring the 3.9L
> Call VDO in Winchester, VA and ask for a catalog. It has the
> available senders listed, along with all their guages.
> Don't have a phone number, but the area code is 703.
VDO/YAZAKI Co. (703) 665-0100 VA, USA
(705) 722-6400 Ontario, Canada
For good stuff made here call - Autometer (815) 895-8141
Rob
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Subject: Electric fan Defender A/C
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 07:47:56 -0800 (PST)
From: "Michael R Fredette" <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
By the way, have any of you Defender/Air cond owners ever seen your electric
fan actually go on? I have been on the LA freeways, after work at 95F at
6pm, AC on full, and the darn thing never came on. It didn't need to as the
regular cooling system did fine, always at the halfway mark on my guage.
John, Madison, WI D90 1994
********************************************************************************
John,
It sounds like you have an open circuit somewhere in your A/C wiring
because the fan on the evaporator is supposed to be on any time the A/C
is switched on. It's not activatated by a thermostat at all, just the
ole on/off switch of the A/C, if it's on, the electric fan up front should
also be on. Hope this helps.
Rgds
Mike Fredette
Portland, Or. D90
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Subject: Re: 90 TD Fuel tank
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 07:45:37 -0800 (PST)
From: "Michael R Fredette" <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
You are only able to go ~ 300 miles between fill ups in your D90 Td? And
before fitting the Kenlowe electric fan your range was ~ 260 miles? What size
is your fuel tank?
I think its capacity is about 55 litres.
As I understand, the US 90 has a fuel tank mounted at the back between the
chassis rails. This may well be bigger than the side tank in a standard vehicle.
-------------------------------------
Tom Stevenson gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
-------------------------------------
Tom,
We do indeed have a larger tank, 15.3 US Gal, mounted between the frame
rails. However, with that big thirsty V8 up front, if you're not seriously
looking for a fillup at 200 miles, 215 at the most, you'll be taking a walk
in the not too distant future. I ended up buying a set of series frame
outriggers and a series tank and adding that to the right side, giving me
another 12.5 Gals and 140 more miles in range. Much more satisfactory.
Rgds
Mike Fredette
Portland, Or.
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From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 10:52:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Electric Fan - Defender
In a message dated 96-03-12 23:35:07 EST, PurnellJE@aol.com writes:
>By the way, have any of you Defender/Air cond owners ever seen your electric
>fan actually go on? I have been on the LA freeways, after work at 95F at
>6pm, AC on full, and the darn thing never came on. It didn't need to as the
>regular cooling system did fine, always at the halfway mark on my guage.
I just had a great idea for those D90 owners wanting to go to electric fans,
and already have AC. Since your AC unit puts one smaller electric fan
inthere already, all we need to do is buy another small one and hook them
both up to the same control circuit/thermostat. If there isn't enough room
on the front, we could put another on the back, as it is OK to have a
Push/Pull arrangement, accourding to the fan manufacturers. Wow, this would
make going electric very inexpensive on the 90s.
Comments?
John. (ps : sending it to both lists for wider circulation.)
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Date: 13 Mar 96 11:41:01 EST
From: Tom Snurka <76550.2503@compuserve.com>
Subject: RE: Electric Fan Disco
Mark writes:
>>I intend on getting a Kenlowe for my NAS 3.9 RR. They fit, cost approx. $200
from the UK. <<
Does it come fully kitted out or are there further bits and pieces to buy as the
project progresses? I'm particularly interested in the remains of the fan
clutch, or rather, what happens after the clutch is removed. Second, does the
fan come with proper mounting brackets or, as in the case of a retrofit to an
elderly Bimmer I did, does it require that brackets be manufactured? Third, who
are you sourcing it from? Yeah, I'm sorry for so many questions but I've been
burned multiple times by those three trips to the parts house that always seem
necessary for any project. The first to buy what you thought you needed, the
second to buy what you really needed, and the third to replace what you broke
after trips 1 and 2. Thanks, Tom
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 09:40:13 -0800
From: Christopher Boese <cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us>
Subject: Re: Steering Guards and Oil changes
Robert A. Virzi wrote:
> Diff guards go fo US$150.
Yipes! I was at the rather pretentious Land Rover Centre at Mission Viejo
before Christmas and they were selling Safari Guard diff guards for $89.
BTW, I was greeted this morning with the news that my cell phone number
had been hacked and stuck in another phone, which was then taken to Texas
and used to make over 900 minutes of calls in the last couple of weeks. I
won't have to pay for any of it, except in terms of wasted time. Still, I
thought I'd warn everyone with cell phones to get fraud protection right
away, especially if you're in the LA area.
A bit ironic, given what I do for a living.
--
Christopher Boese
County of San Bernardino, California
Information Services, Information Systems Security Office
'95 beluga black Discovery V8i
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 12:46:30 -0500
From: Michael & Krista Kirk <michaelk@infi.net>
Subject: Re: Electric fan Defender A/C
Mike
I believe the fans also come on when there is a high heat problem with
the engine. I found this out while changing my coolant and got an air
bubble traped in the block for some reason. The fans came on and when I
looked at the temp gauge it was almost in the red. A quick blip on the
throttle eliminated the bubble and the temp dropped and the fans shut
off automatically.
Michael
--
=============================================================
Michael & Krista Kirk => "michaelk@infi.net"
92 RR
Norfolk, Virginia
=============================================================
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 09:50:17 -0800
From: Bruce.Curtis@sun.com (Bruce Curtis)
Subject: Dealer Loaners and regular service
Just took my '95 Disco into San Jose Land Rover and they asked if i
wanted to be dropped off or wanted a rental car at their expense. As
i live about 30 minutes away and work 45 minutes away i took them up
on the rental offer. When asked they said that it's standard practice.
I seem to remember a thread about the cost of various regular service
intervals and it being very high in some cases? Well, the cost of the
7.5k mile service is $45US at SJLR, seems very reasonable to me.
Later, Bruce.
'95 Disco
--
Bruce W. Curtis brutus@Eng.Sun.COM
SunSoft, Internet Engineering http://www.badrc.org/~brutus
2550 Garcia Ave, MS MPK17-202 (415)786-5147
Mountain View, CA 94043-1100 FAX:(415)786-5896
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 09:59:05 -0800
From: Bruce.Curtis@sun.com (Bruce Curtis)
Subject: Dealer Loaners and regular service
Just took my '95 Disco into San Jose Land Rover and they asked if i
wanted to be dropped off or wanted a rental car at their expense. As
i live about 30 minutes away and work 45 minutes away i took them up
on the rental offer. When asked they said that it's standard practice.
I seem to remember a thread about the cost of various regular service
intervals and it being very high in some cases? Well, the cost of the
7.5k mile service is $45US at SJLR, seems very reasonable to me.
Later, Bruce.
'95 Disco
--
Bruce W. Curtis brutus@Eng.Sun.COM
SunSoft, Internet Engineering http://www.badrc.org/~brutus
2550 Garcia Ave, MS MPK17-202 (415)786-5147
Mountain View, CA 94043-1100 FAX:(415)786-5896
------------------------------
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 11:02:34 -0600
From: insoo@ceramatec.com (Insoo Bay)
Subject: steering protector
Hi all!
I know the steering components in Disco are very vulnerable. I had
replaced the track tube, steering damper, and cross tube after the famous
Moab Rim Trail last Thanksgiving holidays (btw. I strongly believe only
vehicles that can accomplish the trail without ANY modification are Land
Rover. That trail was rated 4+.).
I don't know how the steering guard would be installed and protect,
howerver, the steep price ($850) can not be justified for me. In my
opinion, the most vulnerable part is damper, which can cost as low as $30
and installation is as easy as pie. Next vulnerable par is cross tube,
which will cost ~$30 . It is very easy to replace also. The track tube
replacement is not difficult job either, but it will cost over ~$100.
My choice, therefore, would replace them as needed. Unless you don't damage
the track tube, wheel alignmnet should still not altered. I would even
carry the extra cross tube and damper for field replacement. I, howerver,
would consider the purchase the any guard if I were able to find affordable
source.
Just my opinion.
Happy rovering.
ps I desparately wave. (with very rare response)
Insoo
95 Red 5spd Disco (Mistress)
Salt Lake City, Utah, USA
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 10:08:21 -0800
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: Tire rotation
> Does anybody rotate their Michelins? If so, when? Do you rotate
I do, although it seems I once read "do not rotate" somewhere in the manual.
I believe the main caveat about rotating is that you never want to reverse
the direction of spin of radials. Thus, you would swap left rear with left
front, and right rear with right front. I don't think there's any good way
to include the spare in this pattern.
In my experience the caveat is real. I had a set of radials on my Range
Rover that I rotated in the standard X pattern, and 1000 miles later the
tires were scalloped and undriveable.
-Matt
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Subject: Re: Electric fan Defender A/C
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 10:01:54 -0800 (PST)
From: "Michael R Fredette" <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Mike
I believe the fans also come on when there is a high heat problem with
the engine. I found this out while changing my coolant and got an air
bubble traped in the block for some reason. The fans came on and when I
looked at the temp gauge it was almost in the red. A quick blip on the
throttle eliminated the bubble and the temp dropped and the fans shut
off automatically.
Michael
--
=============================================================
Michael & Krista Kirk => "michaelk@infi.net"
92 RR
Norfolk, Virginia
=============================================================
You are correct, partially. You are refering to a Range Rover,
which was equipped with A/C at the factory, and does have a
thermostat to turn on the electric fan when temps get high. This
is to help during the stop and go traffic situation, when there
is no ram air flowing for lack of forward speed, and no water pump
fan air being pulled through because of low engine RPMs. The elecric fan
kicks on to make things better....but it will also be on constantly
whenever the A/C is on as well.
The Defender 90, by contrast, was not equipped with A/C at
the factory. It's a dealer installed option, the early 94's being
given a cobbed together unit made by Diavila in the UK that has had
a fair share of problems. The new units are made here in the US by
Wynns, and are far superior in capacity and reliability. But, neither
unit has the high temp thermocouple that the Range Rover does for stop
and go traffic. The electric fan only comes on when the A/C is turned
on. I'm not sure but I believe I recall hearing that the 90 has a larger
capacity radiator core than the Range Rover for greater cooling efficiency,
but I'll have to double check that.
Rgds
Mike Fredette
Portland, Or.
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Date: 13 Mar 96 13:09:11 EST
From: Tom Snurka <76550.2503@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Gauges and the 3.9L Disco
I wrote:
> The gauge of choice would be VDO but, the problem is senders. Is there any
> information out there on senders and preferred location of gauge installation.
snip
Tom Rowe wrote:
>>Call VDO in Winchester, VA and ask for a catalog. It has the
available senders listed, along with all their guages.
Don't have a phone number, but the area code is 703.<<
Called the gauge whiz Claus at VDO (540)665-0100 and spent an interesting five
minutes trying to figure this out.
First of all it sounds as if the oil temp should best be taken through the drain
plug and we agreed that the plug is certainly big enough to drill and tap
through should it be larger than M26X1.5 (their largest sender). I'm just not
real crazy about punching a hole through the oil pan and so drilling and tapping
the plug appeals to me. First question is, what is the thread size of the drain
plug? Timing is everything and I just changed my oil so, I'm not pulling mine
out to measure it. Second question, what is the temp range that best suits this
application? My initial impression is that 0-300F is appropriate but am open to
suggestions.
Second, the oil pressure sender. What is the thread size of the existing sensor
and what resistance is built into the existing system for the idiot light?
Second, is 0-80psi a proper range for this application?
One of these days I'm going to have to buy a manual for this beast.
------------------------------
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 10:08:42 -0800
From: Bruce.Curtis@Eng (Bruce Curtis)
Subject: Dealer Loaners and regular service
Just took my '95 Disco into San Jose Land Rover and they asked if i
wanted to be dropped off or wanted a rental car at their expense. As
i live about 30 minutes away and work 45 minutes away i took them up
on the rental offer. When asked they said that it's standard practice.
I seem to remember a thread about the cost of various regular service
intervals and it being very high in some cases? Well, the cost of the
7.5k mile service is $45US at SJLR, seems very reasonable to me.
Later, Bruce.
'95 Disco
--
Bruce W. Curtis brutus@Eng.Sun.COM
SunSoft, Internet Engineering http://www.badrc.org/~brutus
2550 Garcia Ave, MS MPK17-202 (415)786-5147
Mountain View, CA 94043-1100 FAX:(415)786-5896
------------------------------
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 10:12:49 -0800 (PST)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Electric fan Defender A/C
On the elecrtric fan thread, I can add in my 2 cents worth based on what
happens on the Range Rover which is probably the same as the Discovery
and similar to the Defender. On the RR there re 2 electric fans in front
of the radiator as well as the viscous engine driven fan behind. The
electric fans come on when:
1. The a/c is on
2. The engine temp rises above some point determined by the ECU
3. Under some circumstances it stays on after the engine is switched off
-- eg when it's fearfully hot.
I guess from what you folks are saying the Defender has one electric fan
for the a/c; maybe you could add the second one beside it in a similar
configuration to the RR using standard parts. You could bypass the ECU
and trigger the fans from one of the temp sensors with a suitable circuit.
However, I don't think the smaller fans have the capacity of one big fan,
but don't know for sure. Mine certainly all come on a lot when I'm out in
the desert, so I wouldn't like to disconnect the main fan and rely only
on the small electric ones. On the other hand the RR is a slightly
heavier vehicle and needs more cooling.
Cheers
John Brabyn
89RR
On Wed, 13 Mar 1996, Michael & Krista Kirk wrote:
> Mike
> I believe the fans also come on when there is a high heat problem with
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
> Norfolk, Virginia
> =============================================================
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Date: 13 Mar 96 13:16:05 EST
From: <Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Tire rotation
Dave:
I don't rotate the tires because they apparently wear out at a uniform
rate. I am told that you can expect 45-50k out of these tires, which
surprised me but the source was and is trustworthy.
If you do, unless you have switched the spare for an alloy, you'll
find out that the spare is a steel disco wheel, so you'll have to swap
the tire onto an alloy wheel.
Others will also tell you that the different diameter of the
unworn spare will create constant slippage and therefore
premature wear in the diff as it compensates for a part worn tire
on one side and a new on the other.
Does this make sense to any engineers out there?
Chris Browne
95 disco "Baron"
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 96 13:35:29 EST
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: Re: Gauges and v8 oil prime.
I picked up a set of used Porsche VDO gauges for $20, incl.
an oil sender.
As far as BOP-derived oiling problem, shouldn't a remote mounted
filter setup cure it? I am planning to install a pre-oiler myself.
I've seen electric units for $400+, but I never understood why a simple
electric fuel pump won't do. The latest pre-oiler from Mallory is
exactly that - their hi-vol pump plus a timer control module.
Jan
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 10:33:03 -0800 (PST)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: steering protector
I think a steering protector would be great, but I agree with Insoo Bay's
opinion about the cost-effectiveness. They also reduce clearance I assume?
My track rod and steering damper (the lowest dangling parts) are
permanently bent upwards from four wheeling, giving me increased
clearance and reduced vulnerability to further damage!!!
Cheers
John Brabyn
On Wed, 13 Mar 1996, Insoo Bay wrote:
> Hi all!
> I know the steering components in Disco are very vulnerable. I had
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 32 lines)]
> 95 Red 5spd Disco (Mistress)
> Salt Lake City, Utah, USA
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 10:35:53 -0800
From: Christopher Boese <cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us>
Subject: Re: Dealer Loaners and regular service
Bruce Curtis wrote:
> I seem to remember a thread about the cost of various regular service
> intervals and it being very high in some cases? Well, the cost of the
> 7.5k mile service is $45US at SJLR, seems very reasonable to me.
You'll find this is the price at dealers participating in LRNA's
Business-Builder (or something) program. One dealer quoted me $185 for
the same service that was $45 at another one who had gotten with the
program, so to speak. I had my 7500 service done by Bauer RR in Anaheim,
California, and brought in my own Mobil 1. They actually took the cost of
the oil off that $45, so I paid even less, though other dealers may not
be willing to give such a discount.
--
Christopher Boese
County of San Bernardino, California
Information Services, Information Systems Security Office
'95 beluga black Discovery V8i
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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 12:56:21 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Oil Gauges and the 3.9L Disco
Tom Snurka wrote:
snip
> through should it be larger than M26X1.5 (their largest sender). I'm just not
> real crazy about punching a hole through the oil pan and so drilling and tapping
> the plug appeals to me. First question is, what is the thread size of the drain
-
Where's the drain plug? If it's on the side, I wouldn't do it. It
would be a bummer to have the sensor knocked off.
On my Perkins I drilled and tapped a new hole on the back of the oil
pan, out of harms way. The Perkins has a thick Aluminum pan so this
is possible. On your typical sheet metal pan I'd drill a hole and
braze a fitting on. Do it in the back and then you can just forget
about it. Not have to undo it every 3,000 miles.
The drain plug fittings are brazed on, so it should be no problem.
My four cents worth.
Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu
Four wheel drive allows you to get
stuck in places even more inaccessible.
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From: lenagham@inetmail.bachman.com
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 96 14:31:26 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Electric fan Defender A/C
John Brabyn is correct on the electric fan setup for the Range Rover except that
earlier RRs, certainly the 87 not sure about the 88, were not set up to have the
fan run after the engine was switched off.
The sensor that triggers the electric fans to come on is screwed into the
thermostat housing. Perhaps this housing and sensor would be a direct fit for
the D90s.
Incidentally the RR has 3 seperate sensors related to coolant temp.
1. To send signal to the ECU
2. For the temp gauge.
3. For the electric fans.
Regards
Mike Lenaghan
> Subject: Re: Electric fan Defender A/C
> Author: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org> at inetmail
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
> 3. Under some circumstances it stays on after the engine is switched off
> -- eg when it's fearfully hot.
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 14:01:55 -0500
From: Shaun Carrigan <shaunc@infi.net>
Subject: Re: Steering Guards and Oil changes
This oil change thread has got me concerned. My standard procedure is to
drain the sump, then replace the plug, then swap out the filter, then
fill with oil. I haven't generally filled the filter with oil.
How would I know if my oil pump had lost its prime. I should point out I
have the familiar flickering oil light syndrome and I have gotten so I
don't pay attention to it anymore.
Shaun Carrigan
88 RR
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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 14:34:32 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Oil changes
Shaun Carrigan asks:
snip
> How would I know if my oil pump had lost its prime. I should point out I
> have the familiar flickering oil light syndrome and I have gotten so I
> don't pay attention to it anymore.
If your oil light won't stay out this may not help, but when I change
my oil, I disconnect the dist lead and crank it until the oil
lightgoes out. That fills the galleries with oil before starting.
Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu
Four wheel drive allows you to get
stuck in places even more inaccessible.
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From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: RE: oil changes/electric fans.
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 12:56:50 -0800
>Do you normally wire an electric fan with a cut off switch? For example
>wading in deep water you could switch off the fan so you don't spray
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>engine?
>That would seem to be a benefit especially with NAS spec. gas engines?
I saw a setup where the electric fan was switched off by a float switch:
i.e. when the water got to the radiator, the float swich would disable
the fan. I would think this switch would be in series with the
thermostat.
-- Bob W.
>Do you normally wire an electric fan with a cut off switch? For example
=00
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 96 16:04:17 EST
From: rdl@NomuraNY.COM (Rob Legerio)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Electric fan Defender A/C
> The electric fans come on when:
> 1. The a/c is on
> 2. The engine temp rises above some point determined by the ECU
> 3. Under some circumstances it stays on after the engine is switched off
I believe you are correct, but I'm not sure about #3. But, I tell
ya what... I've got the Texas made Wynn unit in my D90 as well
as the instruction manual that came with it. I obtained a copy
from the dealer so that my service manual would be complete.
In the back it has a complete diagram of the system. I'll take
a peek tonight when I get home and post what I find. We can always
call Wynn for more info too.
Rob
94 D90
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 16:05:13 -0500
From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi)
Subject: Re: Steering Guards and Oil changes
Shaun sez-
This oil change thread has got me concerned. My standard procedure is to
drain the sump, then replace the plug, then swap out the filter, then
fill with oil. I haven't generally filled the filter with oil.
How would I know if my oil pump had lost its prime. I should point out I
have the familiar flickering oil light syndrome and I have gotten so I
don't pay attention to it anymore.
Yow! On the one hand, your procedure sounds fine. You didn't have the
filter off at the same time that you had the drain plug out. From what
people have been telling me, that prevents the siphon. And aren't these
Lucas senders almost always the problem?
On the other hand, a flickering oil light would get my attention. I could
see where it would be worth checking the oil pressure at a shop (I assume
you're truck doesn't have a gauge) or replacing the sender.
Third alternative - cut the wire so the light stops flickering. ;-)
-Bob
rvirzi@gte.com Think Globally. ===
+1(617)466-2881 === Act Locally!
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 96 16:14:06 -0500
From: XINCLXrro@learnlink.emory.edu (rro Conference @ learnlink.emory.edu)
Subject: Defender 90 Registry
The Southern Land Rover Society's web page will be sponsoring a registry of
all NAS D90's. I might also add D110's to the list. I would appreciate it if
any D90 owners submit the number of their vehicle, and any/all of the
following:
Owner(s) name(s)
Vehicle's name
Optional equipment
E-Mail address
Color
Place of original purchase
Owner #
Current location (city,state)
Photograph of vehicle
Please respond via private E-mail to avoid cluttering the list unnecessarily.
I'll post the URL as soon as the starting pages are done (perhaps a week or
so). Please note that this is NOT a commercial venture, nor is it an attempt
to create a mailing list of names. The information will NOT be sold and you
may give as little or as much information as you see fit.
I recently purchased LRNA10 and I've been curious as to where everyone else
is, so this is the way. Please get anyone non-net folks you know with D90's
to hand you some info and I'll list them as well.
AdThanks!vance
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Subject: D90 Aux tank install (long)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 14:13:17 -0800 (PST)
From: "Michael R Fredette" <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>
Barnett and a couple others have asked the following
*************************************************************************
Mike,
PLEASE!!!!! tell me all about the Aux gas tank you installed. Have been
trying to do the same sense the second fill up with my 95 D90.
What brand? Where you installed it? Skid plate? How you switch tanks? Is
your fuel gauge still accurate? How complicated is the install? Etc.
As far as I'm concerned the small gas tank is the ONLY Achilles heel with
the Defender.
Thanks in advance,
Barnett
***************************************************************************
Ok, here goes, this is going to take you a while to read. I first picked up
a Series tank from good ole Lawrence at British Pacific, he had some nice
reproduction tanks for $145 on sale last newsletter, maybe he still has some.
You also need to buy the frame outriggers for a series truck, right hand side,
look in the Rovers North catalog, dont remember what they cost but they were
pretty cheap. You will also need the fuel pickup tube assy, and you'll have
to fabricate a block off for the sending unit hole, as we don't use a sender
for this installation. The hardest parts to get are the filler neck assy that
is cut into the side of the body, again off of a Series truck, no longer a production
part but ask RN, they may have a used one for sale. Alternatively, you could have a
setup similar to the stock one bent up out of tin and rivit that in place
instead of the Series truck style. You also need all the bolts, nuts, gaskets
etc. to mount the tank to the outriggers, and the fuel pickup, filler/vent lines to the
tank. You also need (long list eh?) to buy a Facet electric fuel pump, about $20
at most auto parts stores, and fuel line, vent line (same stuff), and some barb
fittings, tee fittings and hose clamps, a rocker switch and wire. Starting to get
ugly isn't it? Well I never said it was an easy task.
Ok, the object of the game here is not to design a duplicate fuel system with sender
tranfer valve, etc. These are EFI vehicles and there is a very big (read EXPENSIVE)
fuel pump buried inside your main tank that we don't want to duplicate. All this
system does is, you fill both tanks for a 27 gallon total, then, when your main
15 gal is almost empty, you flip a switch on the dash and transfer the fuel from
the new aux tank into the main, using it's sender, for much less headache than a
total duplication system for a fuel injected engine, and much less money.
Now, the tank mounts to the outside of the frame, under the passenger seat. I can
just see your brows knitting and you're thinking,"But wait, my ECU and jack and tools
are mounted under there." Yes, and for the 94 D90 folks you only have to find
a new spot for tools and jack, but you 95 folks will have to relocate the ECU. My
suggestion would be to the inside of the cubby box, towards the front by the radio.
You, in any event, lose the storage under the passenger seat. Don't cry though, the
Series folk have been living this way since day one. Have a welder attach the outriggers
to the frame, mount the tank, I would mount the transfer pump on the back face of the rear
outrigger, and plumb the whole mess. Run your fuel and vent lines back along the top of
the frame, cable tie them to the ones already there running forward to the engine.
Tee into the vent line and the fill line. That's about it. Pretty involved. The hardest
part is taking a deep breath and then cutting into the body for the filler neck
assy. Tough to chop into that nice paint without wincing. Make SURE you totally prime
and paint the frame where the welding took place for corrosion protection.
Rgds
Mike Fredette
Portland, Or.
94 D90
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 96 14:30:56 PST
From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: Re: steering protector
>I think a steering protector would be great, but I agree with Insoo Bay's
>opinion about the cost-effectiveness. They also reduce clearance I assume?
I've got a skid plate on my D90 that basically protects the damper and track
bar from horizontal hits.
(Good picture of it on my D90 at
http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/RoverWeb/trips/MojaveRd/images/MojaveRd.Safari_Guard.jpg
Ben Smith took and named the picture. It is not really a Safari Gard ad no
matter how much it may look like one. I'm just a customer who hasn't removed
the window sticker yet.)
It would still be possible to come down vertically
on to those components but that would be very unlikely. My tie-rods have
been slieved to increase their strength. The stock bar is put inside a
2nd bar with the same inside diameter as the diameter of the stock bar.
Another option, if you find a fabricator, is cro-moly replacement parts
for the track and tie rods. Anyway, neither decreases approach angle or
compromises ground clearance.
The nice thing about skid plate is that you can run into stuff and slide up
and over them. Only the diff/axles are lower. I have a guard for the
front of the diff and every thing else that low is pretty bullet proof.
Greg at Safari Gard says he has an additional guard for the tie rod. Won't
see it until Sat. when I pick my truck up. Apparently it is a C shaped
rod that runs from behind the diff where the stock "guard" is to the
sway bar mounts on the left side. I'm thinking I'm into overkill
as far as protection here but it is bolt on, I'll remove it if I don't like
it. Getting a new bumper and rear skidplate on this Safari Gard trip. Just
got really tired of bouncing off and hanging up on the receiver hitch.
Having 45+ degrees of approach angle and 30ish degress of departure angle
just made no sense. (I don't tow.) Also is a prototype which I don't
see until Sat.
Hoping it turns out......
>John Brabyn
>On Wed, 13 Mar 1996, Insoo Bay wrote:
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>> Hi all!
>> I know the steering components in Disco are very vulnerable. I had
Sorry, I missed the first part of the thread. Whose steering guard is
$850? I don't think I'm near that for just the steeing guard stuff.
>> which will cost ~$30 . It is very easy to replace also. The track tube
>> replacement is not difficult job either, but it will cost over ~$100.
I hate the thought of being towed out. Admittedly not likely if only a
tie rod is bent. Have seen and heard of a couple holed front differentials.
Not a fun field repair. Pull carrier, pound out dent, patch hole, replace
carrier, fill diff. Probably ruin a trip......
>> Insoo
>> 95 Red 5spd Disco (Mistress)
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>> 95 Red 5spd Disco (Mistress)
>> Salt Lake City, Utah, USA
-Rick
'94 D90
Richard Larson
LSI Logic Corporation
(408) 433-7149
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Date: 13 Mar 96 17:31:21 EST
From: <Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: Re[2]: WAIT A MINUTE
Tom Rowe asks:
Since the SIIa Lightweight is almost identical to a civilian SIIa and it seems
to be legal to import body panels,
couldn't you just buy all the body panels for a Lightweight and put
them on your regular IIa? Instant (sort of) Lightweight and all the
DOT and EPA stuff stays the same.
or you could go in the other direction as an LRO article a few years
ago showed a lightweight cut in half and widened to fit a shortened
RR chassis!
Regards
Chris Browne
95 disco
I think it was called a "FAT BOY".
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 16:29:23 -0600
From: insoo@ceramatec.com (Insoo Bay)
Subject: Re: steering protector
John Brabyn wrote:
>My track rod and steering damper (the lowest dangling parts) are
>permanently bent upwards from four wheeling, giving me increased
>clearance and reduced vulnerability to further damage!!!
John,
How are the front wheels aligned with the bent track rod? Is there any
tricks? If not, I think to get wheel aligned is more cost effective than
replacing the prematurely worn tires -specially if you have terrific OEM
michelins (and better handling on the road).
cheers.
Insoo
95 Red 5spd Disco (Mistress)
Salt Lake City, Utah, USA
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 15:57:50 -0700
From: Paul Orland <paulor@chs.com>
Subject: Oil change SIMPLIFY?
Let me make sure I have this right (regarding disco V8i oil pump prime).
As long as you do not have the oil drain plug out and the filter removed
simultaneously, there is no danger of losing the prime?
I had no idea that potential prime loss of the oil pump is a problem. Sounds
like a pretty poor design! Has anone heard of any other (non-Rover) engines
that have this "feature"?
- Paul 94 NAS Disco V8i
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 15:57:51 -0700
From: Paul Orland <paulor@chs.com>
Subject: Re: Disco stuff
At 02:03 PM 3/6/96 -0800, Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
>This question of ABS offroad is interesting. I remember when I
>bought my 95 disco, I distinctly remember being told/reading that
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>the difference between off and on road situations. It may have
>something to do with speed and possibly a locked diff/low.
Finally got around to testing my 94 Disco. It will not lock the tires under
braking, even on dirt, regardless of tranfser case high/low or
locked/unlocked. I have gotten more used to it, however.
- Paul 94 NAS Disco V8i
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From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com>
Subject: D90 Aux tank install (long)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 96 16:34:52 MST
Mike Fredette describes D90 aux fuel tank installation:
> Now, the tank mounts to the outside of the frame, under the passenger
> seat. I can just see your brows knitting and you're thinking,"But
> wait, my ECU and jack and tools are mounted under there."
...as is my ARB compressor.
Either:
1) I need to take another look under my D90, or
2) I misunderstood what you're trying to describe, or
3) You left out an important step in the installation instructions:
"Remove floor and rear (and inside?) panel of storage area."
I don't know about yours, but my underseat storage area is a fully
enclosed box too small to mount a 12 gallon tank. And besides, with a
floor already there, why would you need to mount it via outriggers?
Please elaborate!
I supppose you've researched this pretty thoroughly, but is that really
the only place to mount it? Won't the extra weight make the vehicle
list a bit to that side? Plus, I'd worry about it in case of side
impact, but I guess I wouldn't have to mount the optional igniter...
--
Jeff Gauvin
'94 D90
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 17:45:22 -0600
From: ahyoon@students.wisc.edu (Arnold Yoon)
Subject: Dealer Loaners
John:
If you go to Carousel Motors in Golden Valley, Minnesota
(Minneapolis)....they have a fleet of 35 or so loaner
vehicles.........They're Audi 80s..........But there's a good and a
bad....The good is that they are free if you bough the Rover there (which
you didn't) and $33.00/day if you did not......hmmmmmmm.........
For service there:
Floyd Skjerping
LR Service Specialist
Carousel Automobiles
8989 Wayzata Boulevard
612 544-9591
Arnold Yoon
University of Wisconsin - Madison
E-Mail: ahyoon@students.wisc.edu
Voice: (608) 259-9936
Land Rover 4 Ever!
1995 Land Rover Discovery
"Four Wheel Drive Exemplified"
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 17:45:26 -0600
From: ahyoon@students.wisc.edu (Arnold Yoon)
Subject: Service experience
Just a quick set of comments about our Disco's service on tuesday, at
Carousel Automobiles.....They were excellent about everything......The plan
was to do a synthetic fluid changeover in the engine and drivetrain, which
went flawlessly.......the Disco is not running Mobil 1! (may it live
forever).......The service folks were very thorough, even about
non-requested service.......checked for loose manifold bolts....tightened a
radiator hose clamp (little leak)........Very well done........did the
steering bushing fix, too.......all in under three hours......
Arnold Yoon
University of Wisconsin - Madison
E-Mail: ahyoon@students.wisc.edu
Voice: (608) 259-9936
Land Rover 4 Ever!
1995 Land Rover Discovery
"Four Wheel Drive Exemplified"
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From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: RE: Disco stuff
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 15:53:47 -0800
The "Discovery Off-Road" video mentions that the ABS working on dirt
roads as a "feature", allowing you to avoid obstacles if you have to
apply the brakes on a dirt road. They don't mention the disadvantages in
the tape (the manual, however, provides more cautions).
-- Bob W.
>----------
>From: Paul Orland[SMTP:paulor@chs.com]
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)]
>locked/unlocked. I have gotten more used to it, however.
>- Paul 94 NAS Disco V8i
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 16:14:59 -0800 (PST)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: steering protector
On Wed, 13 Mar 1996, Insoo Bay wrote:
> How are the front wheels aligned with the bent track rod? Is there any
> tricks? If not, I think to get wheel aligned is more cost effective than
> replacing the prematurely worn tires -specially if you have terrific OEM
> michelins (and better handling on the road).
Actually my front wheels may not be perfectly aligned judging from the
wear on them -- I am about to replace the tires. I have spotted a
Michelin XMS244 in captivity and plan to grab it, so along with another I
already have I can go one more round on the OEM tire style before either
switching to the new style or choosing something else. I plan to get an
alignment when I get the new front tires on -- I doubt if there will be a
problem but I'll keep you posted!
Cheers
John Brabyn
89RR with bent track rod for improved clearance
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 16:18:46 -0800 (PST)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: RR Aux tank
Regarding the thread on D90 aux fuel tanks, has anyone tried the side
rear mounted aux tank available for Range Rovers? I forget who makes it
but Atlantic British was selling them. When I called to ask about them
they said there was no skid plate, so I didn't pursue it further.
Cheers
John Brabyn
89RR
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From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Oil Gauges and the 3.9L Disco
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 13:11:54 +1030 (CDT)
Tom Snurka asks about oil temp guages:
Most of the two door rangies here in OZ had an oil temp guage fitted from
the factory. the sender was in the oil-pump housing. My stage 1 even had
a sender unit in the housing filling the hole, but no guage, of course the
sender didnt work when I got the correct smiths guage did it....
I had an adapter made to take the standard 1/8-27 (28?) VDO 50-150 C sender.
typically the oil temp hovers around 120C occasionally higher.
the mechanical oil pressure guage tells me that I'm getting ~ 300 Kpa oil
pressure at 3600rpm,120C running penrite HPR-30. runs around 100Kpa at
idle with HPR-30 (25w-60)
I'd have a close look at the oil pump housing to see if you can add the
sender there.
cheers
--
Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)
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Subject: Re: New to RRO list!!
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 96 19:14:24 -0000
From: Hugo Madden <madhugo@best.com>
>> I would also like to know if I can purchase a keyless entry clicker from
>>Land-Rover, as the one for my RR is missing!!!
>Can you imagine what the LRO list would've done with THIS one!!
Yes, TeriAnn'd probably have recommended a 25lb hammer.
_______
//_/_|__\___
\_ - ___ - _d
(o) (o)
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From: DavidP30@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 23:04:42 -0500
Subject: Re: New to RRO list!!
>> I would also like to know if I can purchase a keyless entry clicker from
>>Land-Rover, as the one for my RR is missing!!!
>Can you imagine what the LRO list would've done with THIS one!!
Yes, TeriAnn'd probably have recommended a 25lb hammer.
_______
//_/_|__\___
\_ - ___ - _d
(o) (o)
****************************************************
Please...................... Let Me in on the Joke!!!!!!!
David.
93RR LWB The Best 4x4xFar
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 23:26:06 -0500
From: Michael & Krista Kirk <michaelk@infi.net>
Subject: Re: Oil change SIMPLIFY?
Paul Orland wrote:
> Let me make sure I have this right (regarding disco V8i oil pump prime).
> As long as you do not have the oil drain plug out and the filter removed
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> that have this "feature"?
> - Paul 94 NAS Disco V8i
I too, find this hard to believe. Can Land Rover's be the only mass production
vehicle that does not have a self priming oil pump? I changed my oil and filter
the old fashion way. Take both off and replace the plug and then the filter.
Primarily because I did not know it was a potential problem. But I have never
had a "loss of prime" and had to manually prime the oil pump. It always takes a
little bit longer for the oil to circulate after changing the oil, but that is
normal.
I checked my workshop manual (RR #SRR652 USWM) and the procedure outlined is:
drain the sump, refit the plug, remove the oil filter, replace with a new one
and fill oil to the correct level. It never says anything about priming or
expresses concern over priming.
Looking at the picture in the workshop manual. It looks just like every other
oil pump. And yes they must be primed on the first start of the engine. But
that's it.
Am I missing something or are we enamored that our vehicles must be different
because it is a LR. (I believe it was a GM engine to start with).
Michael
--
=============================================================
Michael & Krista Kirk => "michaelk@infi.net"
92 RR (Canton/Mecca depth filter and Mobil 1 changed ever 6-7500 miles)
Norfolk, Virginia
=============================================================
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From: CrankIt@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 23:35:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Gauges and v8 oil prime.
In a message dated 96-03-13 16:13:18 EST, jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben) writes:
>As far as BOP-derived oiling problem, shouldn't a remote mounted
>filter setup cure it? I am planning to install a pre-oiler myself.
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>exactly that - their hi-vol pump plus a timer control module.
>Jan
Pre-oiler should work but all of the remote mounting mfg. told me they
wouldn't warrant my D-90 due to the possiblity of the loss of prime to the
pump.....go figure.
Gene
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From: CrankIt@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 23:41:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil change SIMPLIFY?
In a message dated 96-03-13 18:48:58 EST, paulor@chs.com (Paul Orland)
writes:
>Let me make sure I have this right (regarding disco V8i oil pump prime).
>As long as you do not have the oil drain plug out and the filter removed
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>like a pretty poor design! Has anone heard of any other (non-Rover) engines
>that have this "feature"?
If I understand the mechanics this is a potential problem for any externally
mounted oil pump. I'm just repeating what a customer support technician at
TransDapt told me when I ask about a remote mounting setup for my D-90.
Gene
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From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 00:23:55 -0500
Subject: Land Rovers at BMW Dealerships?/D90 Article
In the March 11th issue of Automotive News (a trade magazine) they had an
interview with Wolfgang Reitzle BMWAG's Chief of R&D. He said that BMW is
looking to increase sales of Land Rovers and is looking in to selling them at
some BMW dealerships.
The April issue of Four Wheeler had a 2 page update on the yellow D90 LRNA
loaned them to test.
Kevin Kelly
BMW CCA #50039
LROA #1419
------------------------------
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 21:57:59 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: New to RRO list!!
A colleague who just returned from several years of working in the UK and
other parts of Europe told me that Land Rover owners are not very highly
thought of there. In fact he heard the old saw that I've only heard used
against Porsche drivers, viz. "What's the difference between a Land Rover
and a porcupine? (Answer) On a porcupine the pricks are on the outside."
He felt that this acrimony was mostly against the "Sloane Ranger" types
(Sloane Range Rovers?) and not against the Series owners. It may be this
phenomenon that has caused the rift on the List.
Cheers!
John
'95 Discovery
San Francisco, California
At 10:12 13.03.96 -0500, PurnellJE@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 96-03-12 22:31:53 EST, you write:
>>.
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
>(David, this is a joke regarding a recent list uproar, it probably doesn't
>make sense to you yet...)
------------------------------
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 21:58:08 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Dealer Loaners and regular service
The dealership is right. It is standard practice. So's the $45-ish price
on the first servicing at 7500 miles. The price on service becomes more
market-like beginning with the next one.
Cheers!
John
'95 Discovery (18,300 miles)
San Francisco, California
At 09:59 13.03.96 -0800, Bruce Curtis wrote:
>Just took my '95 Disco into San Jose Land Rover and they asked if i
>wanted to be dropped off or wanted a rental car at their expense. As
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
>2550 Garcia Ave, MS MPK17-202 (415)786-5147
>Mountain View, CA 94043-1100 FAX:(415)786-5896
------------------------------
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From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Oil changing cont.
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 16:37:09 +1030 (CDT)
Michael & Krista Kirk ponder:
> I too, find this hard to believe. Can Land Rover's be the only mass
production vehicle that does not have a self priming oil pump?
Perhaps we should rephrase the question and ask how many mass produced
vehicles have a self priming pump. For a gear-pump to be truly
self-priming it basically has to live in the sump. Its all a matter of
design compromises. The situation with the rover V8 may be exacerbated
by the fact that the filter pad is right at the bottom of the pump, so
the pump can be drained in very short time.
> I checked my workshop manual (RR #SRR652 USWM) and the procedure outlined is:
....snip snip..
> It never says anything about priming or expresses concern over priming.
What about in the trouble shooting section, ISTR a line on "failure to
acheive oil pressure after change" or some such topic in one of my manuals.
> And yes they must be primed on the first start of the engine. But that's it.
If you're lucky/careful, thats true otherwise......
I've had to reprime mine but YMMV.
> Am I missing something or are we enamored that our vehicles must be different
> because it is a LR. (I believe it was a GM engine to start with).
The vehicles arent different just that the owners tend to be more aware
of these problems. When I fitted an oil cooler to my holden 6cyl (GM OZ)
engine I had to be careful not to let the cooler drain or the oil-pump
would not prime.
Its no big deal just something to be aware of
--
Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)
------------------------------
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From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: RE: Dealer Loaners and regular service
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 22:14:34 -0800
>The dealership is right. It is standard practice. So's the $45-ish
>price
>on the first servicing at 7500 miles. The price on service becomes
>more
>market-like beginning with the next one.
"market-like"
John, you are such a diplomat!
I'm sorry, but my wallet is still healing from the $270 dent the 15K
service put in it. (It only hurts when I sit down :-)
OTOH, it runs (and stops) great now so as far as "visible" benefit, this
was better then the $60 oil changes.
_____
/|__|_\__(| Bob Watson
| | | \ a-robw@microsoft.com
|---|___|___\____ Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA
| _|= |= |o_ }\
[|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}| '95 Beluga Black Discovery
\_/ \_/ N7UMU
>The dealership is right. It is standard practice. So's the $45-ish
------------------------------
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 22:34:39 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: New to RRO list!!
Terriann Wakeman is the Series owner who coined the term "plushmobile" for
Discoveries and Range Rovers. The note in which she first used plushmobile
was in response to grousing about a problem with squeaky steering columns on
Discoveries during cooler weather. The problem seemed absurd to Series
owners who are deafened by road noise, rattles and other cacophony generated
by their rigs. There were other complaints from the Disco/Rangie set during
this period about air conditioning, stereos and leather interiors.
Terriann is active in Land Rover circles here in the San Francisco Bay Area,
and I asked to her about the plushmobile remark. She actually meant no
harm, and really likes plushmobiles. She even confessed to hoping to pick
up one that comes off of a lease agreement (never off-roaded, low mileage,
pampered) some day. Her complaint was more against whining owners who were
not up to the toughness of their rigs -- sort of, plushmobiles are Land
Rovers, but plushmobile owners complain too much to be real LROs.
Cheers!
John
'95 Discovery
San Francisco, California
At 23:04 13.03.96 -0500, DavidP30@aol.com wrote:
>>> I would also like to know if I can purchase a keyless entry clicker from
>>>Land-Rover, as the one for my RR is missing!!!
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
>Please...................... Let Me in on the Joke!!!!!!!
> David.
> 93RR LWB The Best 4x4xFar
------------------------------
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Subject: Re: New to RRO list!!
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 96 22:37:14 -0000
From: Hugo Madden <madhugo@best.com>
>He felt that this acrimony was mostly against the "Sloane Ranger" types
>(Sloane Range Rovers?) and not against the Series owners. It may be this
>phenomenon that has caused the rift on the List.
Heaven forbid! If the Sloanes have got this far west it's time to head
for Hawaii!!
_______
//_/_|__\___
\_ - ___ - _d
(o) (o)
------------------------------
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 22:45:55 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: RE: Dealer Loaners and regular service
Okay. The price becomes more outrageous beginning with the next one,
especially the $60 oil changes. Better?
Glad to hear you're running and stopping better, never mind the cost.
Cheers!
John
At 22:14 13.03.96 -0800, Robert Watson (CNA) wrote:
>>The dealership is right. It is standard practice. So's the $45-ish
>>price
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)]
> [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}| '95 Beluga Black Discovery
> \_/ \_/ N7UMU
------------------------------
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 96 08:52 CAT
From: basil@ovisun.ovi.ac.za (Basil Allsopp)
Subject: Cruise speed for 300 Tdi
Hello all,
Have just got my Defender 110 300 Tdi run in and I am now wondering what is
a reasonable tarmac cruising speed. The distances between interesting bush
places in South Africa are _large_ and the roads are excellent but I don't
want to compromise engine life by hammering along flat out (I'll never be
able to afford to replace it!). The engine sounds happy at 125-130 kph
indicated (I've not yet checked if the speedo is accurate) which would be
reasonable for long journeys. However it seems quietest at about 110-115 kph.
Has anyone got any hard data on recommended speeds and expected engine
longevity?
--
Basil Allsopp | E-mail basil@ovisun.ovi.ac.za
Onderstepoort Veterinary Institute |
Private Bag X5, Onderstepoort 0110 | Phone +27 12 5299385
South Africa | Fax +27 12 5299431
------------------------------
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 10:41:47 +0100
From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: Tire rotation
Dave McCormack wrote:
>Does anybody rotate their Michelins? If so, when? Do you rotate
>in the spare on the theory that you might as well wear out all
>five so if you buy a different make or size later, you won't be
>left with a mismatching spare?
Do not rotate your rims, the best is to keep them rotate in the same
direction. If there is a diferrence in wear from the front to the rear,
change right rear with right front and the same on the left side. If there
is a difference in wear between right and left on same axels, something is
wrong, realign axels, wheels and toe in/out.
Instead of having one spare wheel, I do it in another way:
I have invested in additional rims, so that I have 8. 4 with good road
rubber, and 4 with sand/mud. When I am driving daily, one of the sand/mud is
my spare, and going to have fun, it is easy to change, aproximatly 40 min,
and then one of the roadwheels are spare.
NB: Remember to mark the rims with a speedmarker (permanent), so that you
can place it on the same corner again after the fun this car is made for.
Best regards
Bent Boehlers
------------------------------
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 12:40:32 +0100
From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: Tire rotation
Dave McCormack wrote:
>Does anybody rotate their Michelins? If so, when? Do you rotate
>in the spare on the theory that you might as well wear out all
>five so if you buy a different make or size later, you won't be
>left with a mismatching spare?
Do not rotate your rims, the best is to keep them rotate in the same
direction. If there is a diferrence in wear from the front to the rear,
change right rear with right front and the same on the left side. If there
is a difference in wear between right and left on same axels, something is
wrong, realign axels, wheels and toe in/out.
Instead of having one spare wheel, I do it in another way:
I have invested in additional rims, so that I have 8. 4 with good road
rubber, and 4 with sand/mud. When I am driving daily, one of the sand/mud is
my spare, and going to have fun, it is easy to change, aproximatly 40 min,
and then one of the roadwheels are spare.
NB: Remember to mark the rims with a speedmarker (permanent), so that you
can place it on the same corner again after the fun this car is made for.
Best regards
Bent Boehlers
******************************************************
* *
* BBBBB BBBBB Bent Boehlers *
* B B B B Product Manager *
* BBBBB BBBBB Olivetti Service Division *
* B B B B DK-2600 Glostrup *
* B B B B Phone: +45 43466596 *
* BBBBB BBBBB Fax: +45 43437954 *
* E-Mail: bb@olivetti.dk *
* *
******************************************************
------------------------------
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From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 08:32:59 -0500
Subject: Water in lenses
Have been reading the posts about water getting in lenses. I just thought I'd
pass along this possible 'tip'-
When you finally get the problem sorted out, and just before you close the
lens assembly up for a couple of years, you might want to put a bit of
anti-siezing compound on the threads of the lens securing screws. Having just
taken the lenses off on '84 RR, I can personally tell you that they are
capable of siezing! Heck, I even pulled the screws that hold the light
assemblies to the vehicle and coated them, as well! I plan on having this for
about ever, and have run into all sorts of unremoveable fasteners on my '61
LR, so...
Jim '60 P5 (628000165)
'68 P6 SC Auto
'68 P6 TC
'61 LR 88"
'84 RR (HC)
LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised...
------------------------------
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 08:58:32 -0500
From: Michael & Krista Kirk <michaelk@infi.net>
Subject: Re: Returned mail: Host unknown (Name server: ebay: host not found)
Sysadmin
Why do I keep getting these messages ?
Maybe delete the name from the list?
Mail Delivery Subsystem wrote:
> The original message was received at Wed, 13 Mar 1996 20:23:21 -0800
> from playground.Sun.COM [192.9.5.5]
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> ----- Transcript of session follows -----
> 550 <Eric.Peterson@Ebay>... Host unknown (Name server: ebay: host not found)
--
=============================================================
Michael & Krista Kirk => "michaelk@infi.net"
Norfolk, Virginia
=============================================================
------------------------------
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 08:59:48 -0500
From: Michael & Krista Kirk <michaelk@infi.net>
Subject: Re: Returned mail: User unknown
Sysadmin
Why do I keep getting these messages ?
Maybe delete the name(s) from the list?
Mail Delivery Subsystem wrote:
> The original message was received at Wed, 13 Mar 1996 20:21:47 -0800
> from mh004.infi.net [205.219.238.95]
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 41 lines)]
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> content-length: 1809
snip
--
=============================================================
Michael & Krista Kirk => "michaelk@infi.net"
Norfolk, Virginia
=============================================================
------------------------------
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END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST
Input: messages 61 lines 2656 [forwarded 341 whitespace 634]
Output: lines 1950 [content 1264 forwarded 149 (cut 192) whitespace 556]
Additional Information:
In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved
(by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
Useful commands for this are 'index uk-lro-digest' which returns a list of
files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc.
Range Rover World Wide Web Sites start at
http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html
(shadow) http://www.OpenMarket.com/personal/caloccia/lr/pages.html
Range Rover Register: http://www.apricot.co.uk/rel3/directory/rrr/index.html
RoverWeb: http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/RoverWeb/
Lloyd's http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/
If Major Domo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net
-B
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