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1 "John B. Friedman" [joha251992 RR LSE for sale in Urbana,Illinois
2 "John B. Friedman" [joha251992 RR LSE for sale in Urbana,Illinois
3 "John B. Friedman" [joha32Yakima roof rack for Disco fix
4 Jim Roth [74245.1226@com41RE:Lucas,Warm Beer, Alfa,Heaters
5 "Tom Walsh" [tomw@netcom78 Winch Woes
6 "Theodore S." [Theodore_51RE: WAIT A MINUTE
7 Andy Marshallsay [axmars36Accessories for Disco
8 Yrjo.Makinen@picker.fi 47RR wheel lug wrench too strong
9 Dennis Seiler [PA7508@UT11 Disco alpine window leak!!!
10 Dennis Seiler [PA7508@UT14 Disco alpine window leak
11 [Chris_Browne@us014-bost20Re: Accessories for Disco
12 "Gerald" [g@ix.netcom.co19Re: Accessories for Disco
13 "Gerald" [g@ix.netcom.co13Apology
Majordomo About the digest
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 96 10:12:39 -0600
From: "John B. Friedman" <johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu>
Subject: 1992 RR LSE for sale in Urbana,Illinois

For the last couple of months there has been a 1992 dark green RR LSE  
for sale at Shelby Motors on University Avenue in Urbana,Il. about  
135 miles south of Chicago. I decided to stop and look at it  
yesterday. It has 50K and looks to be in overal above average  
condition though needed a few things. It is a fancy model with wood  
trip interior, leather seats in excellent condition, and some of  
those lens protectors on the rear tailights and front turn signals  
but no moo bars. Has a fancy stereo and a cellular phone
	I looked underneath and it seems to be in good shape, though  
slight leakage at one swivel ball and from front differential. The  
rear looks dry. Engine seemed clean and free from oil leaks. There  
was a bit of sludging visible at the oil filler. I had no flashlight  
to look inside the filler for sludge.
	The car needs both mufflers and will need in maybe 5K another  
set of tires. Wheels, paint, rear tail gate all look good and no  
evidence of panel repair that I could see. All in all an attractive  
car.
	Their price is 26,900, but I bet they would take round 25 or  
better as the car has been there quite a while. Good luck, John  
Friedman

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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 96 10:18:40 -0600
From: "John B. Friedman" <johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu>
Subject: 1992 RR LSE for sale in Urbana,Illinois

For the last couple of months there has been a 1992 dark green RR LSE  
for sale at Shelby Motors on University Avenue in Urbana,Il. about  
135 miles south of Chicago. I decided to stop and look at it  
yesterday. It has 50K and looks to be in overal above average  
condition though needed a few things. It is a fancy model with wood  
trip interior, leather seats in excellent condition, and some of  
those lens protectors on the rear tailights and front turn signals  
but no moo bars. Has a fancy stereo and a cellular phone
	I looked underneath and it seems to be in good shape, though  
slight leakage at one swivel ball and from front differential. The  
rear looks dry. Engine seemed clean and free from oil leaks. There  
was a bit of sludging visible at the oil filler. I had no flashlight  
to look inside the filler for sludge.
	The car needs both mufflers and will need in maybe 5K another  
set of tires. Wheels, paint, rear tail gate all look good and no  
evidence of panel repair that I could see. All in all an attractive  
car.
	Their price is 26,900, but I bet they would take round 25 or  
better as the car has been there quite a while. Good luck, John  
Friedman

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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 96 10:45:53 -0600
From: "John B. Friedman" <johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu>
Subject: Yakima roof rack for Disco fix

This is a repeat of a post from last summer. If anyone has Yakima  
roof racks of the rain gutter type and wants to use them on a Disco  
instead of buying the Thule kind. Here is how. I got a set of Yakima  
roof clamp tower extenders. These are black aluminum extrusions which  
give about a three inch lift to the cross bars above the roof. They  
cost 35.00. You install the extenders as per directions on the rack  
which goes over the front of the car and then head for your local  
plastics supply store. Buy some blocks of  PVC, sold by the bound,  
about 1 1/2 inches thick and about 3 inches in dia. You can also  
laminate two pieces of 3/4 to make each block.Get a couple of the  
bolts which hold the cross bar clamps to the towers. These should be  
about 6 inches long or what ever will go through your 3 inch Yak  
spacers plus your PVC blocks. Drill a hole for the bolt in the center  
of each PVC block and then epoxy the PVC together (if two thinner  
blocks) or the PVC spacer to the cross bar clamp using the bolt holes  
to line everything up. When the epoxy is dry, use a coarse rasp or  
belt sander to shape your PVC blockas to match the contour of the Yak  
extensions. Then bolt everthing together and install and you will  
clear the rear roof of the Disco by about 1/2 inch. You may have to  
take out the rubber pieces which were used to protect the rain  
gutters on your old car so as to allow the new rain gutter clamp  
assembly to go close into the sides of the Disco. It takes a little  
fiddling and adjustment, but once installed makes a good sturdy  
platform for bikes or canoes. I have carried an 80 lb canoe on my car  
with no trouble on fairly windy roads, but be sure to take it easy as  
a lot of weight up there on the cross bars can make your car tippy.  
Good luck. John Friedman

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Date: 17 Mar 96 13:26:22 EST
From: Jim Roth <74245.1226@compuserve.com>
Subject: RE:Lucas,Warm Beer, Alfa,Heaters

> AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
wrote:

> The old saws about warm beer etc. get old
after the nth telling. 

Well, yeah, to us.  The non-British lists still send up a big guffaw to this
one.

> plus I never met a Lucas alternator I wouldnt replace with a
Delco..)

You bet!!  Second thing I did with my MGB

>in fact I found them to be no worse than the products of Mssrs.
Robert Bosche, Duccilier, Magnelli,
>Plus the worst distributors Ive owned were all
Bosche products. 

Well, I disagree--never had any probs with Bosch.  Now Magnetti Marelli....right
up there with Lucas
 
>, Jags, Alphas, Volvos, BWM etc.

-hope you meant Alfa.  I've been an Alfisti for many years, too.

 
>If you never owned an old BWM or Volvo then you never had to go through the
heater motor or wiper
>motor replacement from HELL. 

You forgot one.  A Brit friend of mine describes an MGB as "a heater around
which a conveyance was built".  In my experience, this is true.  I still have
the scars from ten years ago when I tried to get to it.  Every sheet metal edge
was razor sharp. Like they never expected you to have to do any heater repair.
Yeah, right.

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From: "Tom Walsh" <tomw@netcom.com>
Date:          Sun, 17 Mar 1996 12:47:46 +0000
Subject:       Winch Woes

Here we go again! 
I was going over the vehicle today giving it the 
pre-check for the desert-not-a-rally, I unfurled the winch cable to 
inspect it, clean it, and re-spoool it.... I start reeling it in, I 
get 1/2 way ( my wife is pressing button, I am spooling it by hand to 
make sure it wraps nice and pretty etc... ) The winch start to 
hesitate, I thought maybe it spooled up, or the infamous battery woes 
( from "A winching we will go" message 6 mos ago on mendo left coast 
list ) were rearing there ugly head. 
I have my wife get in the vehicle to rev the engine etc...
we reverse the cable, nada. I unlock the winch drive, yes I can pull 
by hand real easy.... MY wife said she had smelled something ( I 
didn't ) but we both heard an odd sound.. Well it apears this things 
dead ( Its dead Jim! :( I releive my wife of her winching duties :) 
and start to study the problem, I can now smell burnt electrical 
stuff when I get my nose close to the solenoid or winch.... I open up 
the soleniod expecting to find a molten mass of warn parts, it looks 
and smells good. I get under the vehicle to look at the wiring to the 
winch....... I look real close, take off the protective bootings to 
the three drive wires.... two of the studs the cables mount to a very 
close... it appears the cable touch ( I knew this installing em, but 
thats what the rubber boots are for! )Well it apear the rubber boots 
in one spot have melted and caused contact between two of the three 
wires ( there is a fourth ground wire on another part of the winch ).

This scenario does not please me! I get the old voltmeter and start 
poking about. At this point I'm hoping the solenoid is toast as 
opposed to the winch guts.. I measure the solenoid outputs....
When I wind the winch forward ( with remote switch ) I get 13 volts ( 
thanks Lucas ) out of all three wires ?!!!!, when I reverse it I get 
13 volts out of all three wires ?!!!!!..... This seems odd to me.

Question one:
How does this thing work. Seems like a useles solenoid if all the 
wires light up all the time for each switch direction ( they ~0V when shut 
off ! this is good at least )

Since the three wire buisness is funny on the solenoid I decide to 
"hotwire" the winch from the battery, bypassing the solenoid, this 
would prove the solenoid is bad etc.... So I "ASSuME" that any two of 
the wires lit up ( in addition to the ground wire making a good 
ground contact, wich it is ) will make the winch turn in one or the 
other direction ( one wire is the hot I assume the other two are 
directional hot wires ( one or the other is on for a particular 
direction ). This does not work!!!

Question two:
Now I'm confused. It is a warn 8000 with external solenoid, how is it 
supposed to work?

Question three:
Help! any pointers appreciated:

Tomw, This winch is really "pulling" me apart ( not! )

---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*
                       Fluent Networks
             "Intelligent Networking Solutions"
Tom Walsh
tomw@netcom.com soon to be tomw@fluentnet.com
95 LR Disco "The Green Monster"
#include <std_disclaim.h>
*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*

---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*
                       Fluent Networks
             "Intelligent Networking Solutions"
Tom Walsh
tomw@netcom.com soon to be tomw@fluentnet.com
95 LR Disco "The Green Monster"
#include <std_disclaim.h>
*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 02:12:16 UT
From: "Theodore S." <Theodore_S@msn.com>
Subject: RE: WAIT A MINUTE

No!  You are very wrong in what you stated and suggested in your message 
below.  First, the series III, which the Stage One V8 is based on, did not 
evolve until the fall of 1971.  Second, the actual 109" Stage One V8 itself 
was not developed until 1979.  So I ask you this:  How in the HELL do you get 
a perfectly legal  "Stage One V8" by using parts that are based on a pre-1969 
Land Rover?  Are you saying that it is legal to mislead potential customers, 
who may not be as well informed as some of the readers of this list/digest, by 
selling them a hybrid of pre-1969 Land Rover parts that you claim and pass off 
to be an actual 109" Stage One V8?  That is exactly what you are doing, Sean.  
You are ripping consumers off-BIGTIME!  Your business practices are misleading 
and fraudulent.  I will look elsewhere for a vintage Land Rover, Thank you!

- Theodore Sawyer

----------
From:  Atlanta67@aol.com
Sent:  Thursday, March 14, 1996 11:20 AM
Subject:  RE:WAIT A MINUTE

With all due respect to any of those with different opinions. Renewed
Traditions does NOT import illeagle vehicles to the United States of America.

I will expound in brief: It is completely legal to restore a pre-1969 Land
Rover, it is perfectly legal to do mechanical upgrades to a pre-1969 Land
Rover, it is perfectly legal to do cosmetic upgrades to a pre-1969 Land
Rover. It is perfectly legal to take every appropriate mechanical piece off
of a Stage 1 V-8 and apply them to a pre-1969 Land Rover.Then once you have
upgraded the interior and front end you have a PERFECTLY LEGAL STAGE 1 V-8. I
understand the problems people have had in the US with people trying to sell
them D110 and D90's. We do not import true D110's and D90's. We can and do
build vehicles to D110 and D90 spec, but again all pre-1969.

We have been doing business in England for 10 years and export vehicles to
over 17 countries. We average around 50 vehicles a month out of that
facility, and I welcome the inspection of any subscriber to the list and or
any customs, DOT, or EPA employees.

Thank you all for your continued interest and support in increasing the Land
 Rover population in America

Sean Sinkule
Renewed Traditions
(770)-392-1593
E-mail ATLANTA67@AOL.COM
WWW:   http://users.aol.com/atlanta67/renewed.htm

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From: Andy Marshallsay <axmarsha@lag.mobil.com>
Subject: Accessories for Disco
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 11:33:28 GMT

Sun-hatches

Spring will soon be upon us in the UK, therefore I'd like to lighten up
my Disco with a coupla glass sun-hatches. Not looking for anything fancy,
three basic requirement - tilt, remove, no-leak.
Anyone have any experience and cost of either the dealer fit ones, or
third party accessories. 
Oh yes the Disco is a 95 model year and has recesses in the headliner
for the hatches, and I'd want the hatches to fit neatly into these of
course.

Dog guards and bed-liners.

Adding a canine to the family really necessitates both of the above.
Again the question is genuine part vs. aftermarket. And with the bed
liner, would a dog make a feast of the stowable one, or would the ABS
one be more practical. I don't have the seven-seat option, so access to
the rearmost seats isn't an issue.

Maybe as a postscript I should save by money, buy an old IIA canvas top
and return to the lro list ;-)
--
FROM:
        Andy Marshallsay
------------------------------------+------------------------------------------
DISCLAIMER:                         | Tel       Mobil   +234 1 2621640 x 2283
Any comments or statements made are | VoiceMail Nigeria +234 1 2030766
not those of Mobil Corporation, its | Tel/Fax   Nigeria +234 1 2611785
subsidiaries or affiliates          | Tel/Fax   UK      +44 1202 582379
                                    | email     Mobil   axmarsha@lag.mobil.com

------------------------------
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From: Yrjo.Makinen@picker.fi
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 13:19:40 +0300
Subject: RR wheel lug wrench too strong

Hello All Coilies,

I've  been following this recent thread about difficulties with wheel 
nuts and the weakness of the LR-issue lug wrench. Some observations on 
the subject in the following. 

Recently, I was at a (professional) tire shop  to have a slowly 
leaking tire fixed. After frantic search around the shop, the mechanic 
had to admit not having large enough socket for his super-duper impact 
wrench. With some embarrassment he then asked if he could 'borrow' my 
lug wrench. I handed it over. The mechanic smiled at it, flexed his 
shoulders and assumed this 'now I'm going to bend this pitiful 
toy'-expression on his face and proceeded to loosen the first nut and 
*almost* fell on his face when the nut came off just like it's 
supposed to...

The 'secret' is an anti-seize compound. I use it on wheel studs and 
nuts, or any other place I might have to dismantle again, only 
exceptions are joints where thread-locker has to be used. Oil or 
ordinary grease help some but they don't have very lasting effects. 
Real anti-seize stuff stays put - for years. Personally I prefer an 
anti-size that contains aluminum and molybdenum disulfide.

I first thoroughly cleaned the studs and nuts using fine steel brush 
and rust penetrating oil. I then applied the anti-size liberally with 
small brush so that the threads were totally covered with it. Since 
then I've found the LR-wrench more than adequate. In fact, I'm looking 
for a lighter one to replace the far-too-robust original :-). Even 
winter (=3-month salt water immersion in these parts of the world) 
doesn't cause any problems with the wheel nuts.

PLEASE NOTE: Some anti-seize compounds reduce friction in the thread 
so effectively that the tightening torques have to be reduced 
somewhat. 

Rust = a thread locker with all natural ingredients

Rovering,
Yrjo J. Makinen

'79 RR with *lots* of rust but no seizures ;-)

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Date:         Mon, 18 Mar 96 07:57:58 LCL
From: Dennis Seiler <PA7508@UTKVM1.UTK.EDU>
Subject:      Disco alpine window leak!!!

Well it happend this weekend, a stream of water coming out of the rear speaker
during a hard rain.  After returning home I took off the panels around the
passenger side rear alpine window and had the wife sit in and watch.  Sure
enough, as soon as I squirted water on the window, the lil lady had a shower!
I know others have had this problem.  Has anyone had this fixed correctly?
HELP!   thanks...

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Date:         Mon, 18 Mar 96 08:25:18 LCL
From: Dennis Seiler <PA7508@UTKVM1.UTK.EDU>
Subject:      Disco alpine window leak

Well it happend this weekend, a stream of water coming out of the rear speaker
during a hard rain.  After returning home from the Smokies, I took off the
panels around the passenger side rear alpine window and had the wife sit in
and watch.  Sure enough, as soon as I squirted water on the window, the lil
lady had a shower!  I know others have had this problem.  Has anyone had it
fixed correctly?  HELP!

thanks.
96 Disco

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Date: 18 Mar 96 08:49:35 EST
From: <Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Accessories for Disco

     

                                    
     Andy asked about dog guards and stowable boot liners
     I have the official versions of both these accessories and highly recommend 
     both. The dog guard is the mesh version and apart from performing its 
     function as a dog guard against my english setter and golden retreiver has 
     proven useful for all kind of things, eg hangin dry cleaning, lashing 
     shovels etc
     the liner works well and fits very easily, all you need is a phillips 
     screwdriver and about 15 minutes 
     Chris Browne
     95 Disco
                                    
                                        

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From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:19:00 +0100
Subject: Re: Accessories for Disco

On 18 Mar 96 at 8:49, Chris_Browne@us014-boston-mi wrote:

>      Andy asked about dog guards and stowable boot liners
. . . .
>      proven useful for all kind of things, eg hangin dry cleaning, lashing 
>      shovels etc

Is it strong enough to hold a high lift jack? 

--
Gerald
Massachusetts, U.S.
g@ix.netcom.com

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From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:22:57 +0100
Subject: Apology

I accidently send a posting to the list with a request for receipts. 
I apologize if this ends up sending my receipts out to the list.

--
Gerald
Massachusetts, U.S.
g@ix.netcom.com

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