The Coil Sprung (Land-Rover) Owner List Daily Digest

Send Submissions uk-lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:58:49 -0500 (EST)
From: Chris Haslam <haslam@alcor.concordia.ca>
Subject: 88 RR Fuel Pump

I am told that the fuel pump for the 1995 GMC Yukon is very similar to 
the one for my RR - and presumable much cheaper.

Before I add this info to the schematic diagrams on Lloyd Allison's web 
site, I would appreciate confirmation/denial of this information. Can 
anyone help?

...chris haslam
Montreal, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:59:29 -0500 (EST)
From: Chris Haslam <haslam@alcor.concordia.ca>
Subject: 88 RR Fuel Pump: A Cheaper Substitute?

  This message is in MIME format.  The first part should be readable text,
  while the remaining parts are likely unreadable without MIME-aware tools.
  Send mail to mime@docserver.cac.washington.edu for more info.

--OAA04680.827003785/alcor.concordia.ca
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Content-ID: <Pine.OSF.3.91.960316143355.10173C@alcor.concordia.ca>

I am told that the fuel pump for the 1995 GMC Yukon is very similar to 
the one for my RR - and presumable much cheaper.

Before I add this info to the schematic diagrams on Lloyd Allison's web 
site, I would appreciate confirmation/denial of this information. Can 
anyone help?

...chris haslam
Montreal, Canada

--OAA04680.827003785/alcor.concordia.ca--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 15:32:59 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: NH Spring safari ... or mud run, depending on the weather. 

All, 

I have had over a dozen requests to run another NH Safari. After the great 
time most of us had this past Saturday, I thought why not. BTW we had 13 
vehicles show up, all models, yes even 5 plushies !!! Those that want the 
details can read the report posted yesterday. 

Spring will truly be here at the end of April, so I'm planning the next run 
for 

Saturday 27th April 1996. 

We will leave Keene NH at 10AM SHARP !!!!!! The meeting point will be the same 
place, Dunkin Donuts just off the intersection with Route 10 and Route 101. 
This will give everyone a good chance to get food, coffee etc. BEFORE we start 
off. 

Logistics. 

This time instead of snow it will probably be MUD. How much will depend on how 
much more snow we get, and how quickly the ground has thawed out. But come 
prepared for mud. 

Tools: 

Tow Ropes, CB's, Hi-lift jacks, Winches, come-a-longs. Chain saws or axes.  

Bring dry socks, and maybe another pair of boots.  Certainly bring a change of 
clothes.

Hotel accommodations are available at the Days Inn or the Best Western in 
Keene. If you want me to make reservations for you e-mail me. My wife is a 
travel agent in town ! or you can just call yourself. A night's stay is about 
$40-$50. 

We will tailgate lunch out in the woods, so pre-pack a lunch BEFORE  we start 
!!!     

We will stop in the evening for a Bar-B-Q at my house, bring your own beer 
etc. 

Those that may have Discoveries or Range Rovers that want to come, REMOVE your 
front spoilers. If we get mud, you will dig them into the ground and probably 
end up carry them home in the back !!! 

We will probably encounter water, how deep again will depend on the thaw. If 
you have a wading plug put it in. If you don't have a wading plug then order 
one. With all the mud the drain hole could get blocked. 

Interestingly, out of the all the request I had for this past weekends trip, 7 
owners were not on the Internet. So tell your friends. 

I look forward to another great day in the woods. 

MARK

------------------------------

From: lenagham@inetmail.bachman.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 10:35:58 EST
Subject: Mysterious clicking noise on 87RR solved!!

     For the past couple of months I've been driven crazy by a clicking 
     noise coming from the dashboard area on one of my 87 RRs. It started 
     off when it would click once if the accelerator pedal was depressed 
     and would click twice when the pedal was released. It would only do 
     this if the car was in motion and in gear. It would also click 
     continually at around 50 m.p.h.
     
     I tried all sorts of things, disconnecting the speedometer, 
     lubricating the cable at the pedal - nothing worked. Yesterday the 
     weather was finally nice enough to spend some serious time to track it 
     down. I had the cover off under the dashboard, the shroud off around 
     the steering column, even the centre trim piece off the steering 
     wheel, I also removed the instrument panel binnacle and again 
     disconnected the speedometer and pulled the inner cable out a little 
     so it wasn't rotating at all. I then drove around a parking lot trying 
     to track down the noise - no luck.
     
     I finally drove it home in disgust and spent some time poking around 
     under the dashboard for something that was loose. After a while I 
     thought I would take it out again and noticed that as I moved the 
     transmission lever into reverse I heard a click. I had my daughter 
     come out and for a few minutes she sat there moving the transmission 
     from neutral into drive and up into reverse, every now and again it 
     would click. I was crouched down using a long screwdriver as a 
     stethescope trying to track down the noise. I was able to discount the 
     noise coming from the steering column, it was coming from higher up. 
     The only thing there was the audible warning unit for the seat belts, 
     lights on etc - you know the thing that makes those horrible chiming 
     noises. I disconnected it and no click!
     
     I then went to the wiring diagrams to see what the ten wires were that 
     are connected to this thing. The only thing that had any connection to 
     the transmission was a wire that went to the neutral warning switch on 
     the transfer case. I pulled this wire out of the connector and plugged 
     it back in to the warning unit, I still have the horrible chimes but 
     no clicking.
     
     I haven't tried to troubleshoot the problem further, yet. According to 
     the manual to get to this switch to adjust it you have to remove the 
     rear drive shaft and brake assembly. I figure I can do without an 
     audible warning when the transfer case is in neutral.
     
     I put it all back together (leaving the one wire disconnected) and 
     took it out for a test drive - no clicking. I stopped in at the local 
     gas station filled up with gas drove home and put the vehicle in the 
     garage. Fuel was dripping from the top of the fuel tank - I only had 
     the tank replaced last week under the recall - I guess they didn't fit 
     something back together properly. It only leaks when the tank is full 
     - probably the seal on the pump.  There's always something!!
     
     Sorry for being so long winded - but I was so happy to solve this 
     problem.
     
     Mike Lenaghan
     87 RRs (2)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 11:22:16 -0500
From: Michael & Krista Kirk <michaelk@infi.net>
Subject: Re: WAIT A MINUTE

Theodore

Don't sugar coat it, tell us how you really feel. !!!!

I guess the point is "Buyer Beware".

However, in Sean's defense, I read the literature in his web page and it was 
obvious to me what his company was doing.  One the phone, he repeated disclosed 
this fact.  So ripping off consumer's is not a fair assesment of his company's 
practices.  If there is a market out there for modified Pre-1969 LR's, then Renewed 
traditions is just catering to that market.

They do sell unmodified vehicles, refurbished vehicles, and modified vehicles.  I 
guess a more accurate discription would be to say a "PERFECTLY LEGAL STAGE 1 V-8" 
based on a 1969 chassis.

Again,  misleading and fradulent they are not.  However the buyer should aways 
beware.

Michael
92 RR

Theodore S. wrote:
> No!  You are very wrong in what you stated and suggested in your message
> below.  First, the series III, which the Stage One V8 is based on, did not
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 48 lines)]
> E-mail ATLANTA67@AOL.COM
> WWW:   http://users.aol.com/atlanta67/renewed.htm

-- 
=============================================================  	 
Michael & Krista Kirk => "michaelk@infi.net"
Norfolk, Virginia
=============================================================

------------------------------

From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 08:29:10 -0800
Subject: Re: No Joke!!

On Mar 14, 10:08pm, DavidP30@aol.com wrote:
> Subject: No Joke!!
> Howdy Folks!
>  Thanks to all who explaned the joke for me! although I can

understand the
> differences between the series owners and the rangy types, as
most RROs in my
> area are of the country club set. My personal beginings in Land
Rovers came
> from my cousin, who owns 3 series types, an 88, a110 pick-up and
a customized
> 110 wagon, which is pretty cool, its got a ford 302 under the
bonnet backed
> up by a muncie four speed, the list also includes recaro seats
front and rear
> with a roof console stereo, safari top and custom wheels, its
also quite
> unusual to hear the growl of dual pipes coming from a land rover,
BTW it was
> a frame up restoration.
>  The reason I mention his truck is, that it should not matter if
>  Thanks to all who explaned the joke for me! although I can
you've got
> an old series type or a "plushmobile", what matters is that its a
LAND
> ROVER!!!!!!!
>  The reason I mention his truck is, that it should not matter if

TeriAnn, or should I say *David*,

I figured you out. You are just trying to get us going with these
comments. You know that it *does* matter what kind of truck it is.

You're just trying to getyy back on our good side. Well, good
luck!!!!!

:>)  Ha ha ha

>   The best part is that RRs and LRs are still unique! why be a
clone and
> drive a Jeep, Jimmy or an Explorer, when you can be part of an
elite and
> drive a Legend!!!!
>   So! my question still holds; How can I purchase a remote
>  Thanks to all who explaned the joke for me! although I can
clicker for my
> 93RR
>   David
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>   BTW my cousin just picked up his NEW 95 Disco :)
>-- End of excerpt from DavidP30@aol.com

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 11:28:35 -0500
Subject: One Less Rattle - D90
From: "Andrew A. Dallas" <adallas@systemsoft.com>

After being driven crazy by a constantly increasing rattle in the back 
end of my D90, I spent a bit of time poking around. All bolts seemed 
firmly seated. The lugs on the spare were tight. What wasn't tight was a 
retaining nut on the other side of the spare. This nut holds the spare 
out on the shaft onto which the lug is screwed. I backed that off firmly 
and did in one more nasty D90 rattle. Loose bolts have generally been the 
problem so I wasn't surprised to find this. I hope this info helps 
someone else out there. I think there's only one more rattle left and I 
think it's the rear seat. Anyone out there have an idea about what's 
wrong and how to fix it?

Yes, I know. I should be man enough to enjoy the miscellaneous noises 
that accompany the wind noise and be able to determine the speed at which 
I'm driving by the frequency of any rattle. 
-AD

************************************************************************
 Andrew A. Dallas
 Full Spectrum Software, Inc.
 30 Whittemore Road
 Newton, MA 02158, USA

 (617) 965-7580, On Site Office: (508) 647-2948
 email: adallas@tiac.net, Web Page: http://www.tiac.net/users/adallas/
************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:38:42 -0700 (MST)
From: Tebbin Salvesen <tsalves@slcpl.slcpl.lib.ut.us>
Subject: sun roofs

There was a recent post about sun roof instalations and my e-mail seems to
not be working properly so i'll try to post here. I installed a sun roof
in my 87 RR from american Sunroof and have been very pleased with it over
the years. It is a glass roof that fits flush and retracts inside the
headliner. I have had no leaks or other prob. with it and it did not
affect the headliner clearance at all. They offer several models and
styles and some of them open out over the roof like the honda CRX design.
I dont know if they are available across the pond but they would work in
discos as well as RR. Heck you could even put one in a series veh!!!!
T.S. 87 
87 EYS edition RR

------------------------------

From: PremierLe@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 12:00:49 -0500
Subject: Winch Hydraulic D90

>I'm looking to add a winch to my '94 D90.  Does anyone have any
recommendations? 
>I've seen some ads, and large price reductions, on hydraulic winches.  Does 
>anyone have experience with these? Are they better than electric?  Thanks in

>advance.

I just looked at the Mile Marker hydraulic winch at the factory. I am going
to buy one. They offer several advantages in my opinion. Lighter weight
(68-72 lbs), will not overheat and stall, works under water & mud, very
strong and will pull more than a similarly rated electric winch. In a reprint
of an article from 4X4 Mechanix (yes correct spelling) they tested a Waren,
Super Winch and Mile Marker. The big differences were both electric winches
overheated and stalled after about 18 feet. The Mile Marker would pull all
day and not overheat. Ever had to winch several vehicles through a hole? The
winch uses the power steering pump for power. You still have power steering.
One of the best things that they don't advertise is, they offer quick
disconnects. So you can mount the winch on a receiver plate and move it to
the rear if necessary, another vehicle or leave it in the garage when nor
needed. The winch only draws 2 amps so you do not have to upgrade your
electrical system, and can still use your flood lights for a night job.

The disadvantages: 

Slow line speed while not under a load. The line speed is actually faster
than the electric when pulling a load, but stays the same under no load,
unlike electric winches that go faster under a light load.

Cost. Slightly higher than a Waren if you do not include the cost of having
to upgrade your electrical system. However, they are one sale until the end
of March for almost half price. Also they don't tell you, but the price
includes a roller fair lead!

They have a Web Page at http://www.milemarker.com/~winches/ or call 800
426-8646. I talked to JR and he was very helpful. In fact he was just over at
the Land Rover dealer and told me they had the American Team Camel Trophy
vehicle in the back lot. I went over and immediately looked at it. Neat!

Darrell Brewer
D90 wanabee

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 12:14:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Yakima roof rack for Disco fix  

John B. Friedman just posted how to make Yakima rain gutter type (IA tower)
racks fit a Disco.  I am a 10+ year Yakima owner and I now have as much
Yakima stuff as many small sporting good stores.  I have a few Land Rover
Yakima tips:

Disco: 
An easy way to put Yakima ski racks on a Disco is to buy the Yakima mighty
mounts for $10-$15 that let you attach them to the square Disco crossbars.

If you don't have the Yakima rain gutter racks another way to put Yakima's on
a Disco is with Yakima's new "Double Cross" system that grabs on to the Disco
roof bars.

Range Rover:
You can use the rain gutter (IA towers) or the ones that sit on the roof and
clip under the rain gutters (QTR).  I have both, kinds (the BMW does not have
rain gutters) but I use the 1A towers on the Range Rover, I think a heavy
load on the QTR's may dent the aluminum roof.  One more Range Rover tip, go
to a bike shop and ask for an old bike tube and cut out three inch sections
to cover all the clamps that go around the outer edge of the painted rain
gutters.

I don't work for Yakima, but I have been very happy with their racks over the
years.  I know a lot of people that got rid of other racks to buy Yakimas but
I have never met anyone who got rid of their Yakima's to buy another brand of
rack.

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 12:14:33 -0500

hed a first draft of the changes made to the U.S. Spec.
Range Rover Classics from '87-'95.

I would like a few Range Rover owners to read it over to give me input, make
changes or give suggestions on how to improve it before it is posted on the
Rover web.

If anyone is interested in this send me an E-mail. BTW it is about eight
pages long.

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 11:46:14 -0600
From: Robert Kolander <kolanrj@gw.startribune.com>
Subject:  D90 Heater & Bar ?'s

Anyone have the optional rear heater unit for the D90, and how well
does it work? Does it pump out enough heat to make it worth it?
Price? How hard is installation? Also, where exactly would it be
located in the truck, and where are it's vents, etc... 

Also, I'm thinking about buying a "Pedestrian-bar" and am wondering
how much one usually goes for, and how hard installation is (I assume
it can't be too complicated and even I could figure it out.....)

Obviously, I haven't done too much research on either of my
questions, but I figured I'd take the lazy way out and ask the people
who know best.... heh heh...

Bob K.
'95 D90 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 13:08:55 EST
From: rdl@NomuraNY.COM (Rob Legerio)
Subject: Re: One Less Rattle - D90

> What wasn't tight was a retaining nut on the other side 
> of the spare. This nut holds the spare out on the shaft
> onto which the lug is screwed. I backed that off firmly
> and did in one more nasty D90 rattle.

I fixed the exact same rattle on my D90 about a month ago.
I hate rattles too, and am constantly fixing the "rattle of
the month".  Another rattle I had from the back was comming
from the tailgate lock. A rubber ball or rag stuffed between
the handle and gate on the inside keeps it quiet.  As for the
soft top, I've eradicated almost all flapping noises by putting
soft pads between the fabric and the cage. My mom made em for
me out of a gray fabric and used foam on the inside. Thanks Ma.

Rob
94 D90 

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Winch Hydraulic D90
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 10:18:06 -0800 (PST)
From: "Michael R Fredette" <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>

 
 >I'm looking to add a winch to my '94 D90.  Does anyone have any
 recommendations? 
 >I've seen some ads, and large price reductions, on hydraulic winches.  Does 
 >anyone have experience with these? Are they better than electric?  Thanks in
 
 >advance.
 
 I just looked at the Mile Marker hydraulic winch at the factory. I am going
 to buy one. They offer several advantages in my opinion. Lighter weight
 (68-72 lbs), will not overheat and stall, works under water & mud, very
 strong and will pull more than a similarly rated electric winch. In a reprint
 of an article from 4X4 Mechanix (yes correct spelling) they tested a Waren,
 Super Winch and Mile Marker. The big differences were both electric winches
 overheated and stalled after about 18 feet. The Mile Marker would pull all
 day and not overheat. Ever had to winch several vehicles through a hole? The
 winch uses the power steering pump for power. You still have power steering.
 One of the best things that they don't advertise is, they offer quick
 disconnects. So you can mount the winch on a receiver plate and move it to
 the rear if necessary, another vehicle or leave it in the garage when nor
 needed. The winch only draws 2 amps so you do not have to upgrade your
 electrical system, and can still use your flood lights for a night job.
 
 The disadvantages: 
 
 Slow line speed while not under a load. The line speed is actually faster
 than the electric when pulling a load, but stays the same under no load,
 unlike electric winches that go faster under a light load.
 
 Cost. Slightly higher than a Waren if you do not include the cost of having
 to upgrade your electrical system. However, they are one sale until the end
 of March for almost half price. Also they don't tell you, but the price
 includes a roller fair lead!
 
 They have a Web Page at http://www.milemarker.com/~winches/ or call 800
 426-8646. I talked to JR and he was very helpful. In fact he was just over at
the Land Rover dealer and told me they had the American Team Camel Trophy
 vehicle in the back lot. I went over and immediately looked at it. Neat!
 
 Darrell Brewer
 D90 wanabee
 
*****************************************************************************

	Darrell,

	You are missing the most important and IMHO, the disqualifying aspect
	of the Mile Marker hydraulic winches. Your engine MUST be running in order
	for it to work. If you stall in deep water, or steep inclines, (not a problem
	with EFI generally, but a big one with carbed engines) you are now sans 
	winch. An electric winch doesn't care whether the engine runs or not.
	The battery had best be in good shape, but that's about it. The overheat
	problem you mentioned is not one I've experienced with my X9 Superwinch
	on my D90. Admittedly, I've only had to winch a total of four trucks at
	one time, it got pretty warm all right, but not enough to hurt anything.
	This is something to think about I spose, and everyone has an opinion, but
	hydraulic and PTO type winches have been around for a long time. Electric
	winches have now come to dominate the market, perhaps for the reasons
	cited or others. Anyone else out there had any experiences they'd like to
	relate.

	Rgds
	Mike Fredette
	Portland, Or.

------------------------------

From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: One Less Rattle - D90
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 11:20:18 MST

Andrew A. Dallas asks:

> I think there's only one more rattle left and I 
> think it's the rear seat. Anyone out there have an idea about what's 
> wrong and how to fix it?

On my '94 D90 the lower seat belt mounts rattle (not the inertial reel
mount, the other one), and I don't think any thing can be done about it.
The mount is designed to allow the belt to rotate and the design has a
lot of slop built in.  BTW - the bolt around which the belt rotates is
fitted into a steel plate that wraps under the frame.  Mine is not
bolted to the frame, is yours?  It seems to me that the arrangement
would not adequately hold the lower mount in place during an accident.

If you have the '94 style rear speakers, they may be contributing some
rattle too.  The boxes are secured only by two small bolts at the bottom
so the top is free to flop around.  Some self-sticking foam tape at the
top edge should quiet them.

Double check the "bump stop" on the spare tire carrier (actually on the
door itself); this keeps the carrier from rattling on it's hinges,
except during the biggest hits.

I generally like to eliminate rattles if I can (have you ever known a
rattle to be good?), but knowing what's causing the ones I can't get rid
of is some consolation.

--
Jeffrey J. Gauvin

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 12:37:58 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Winch Hydraulic D90

> I just looked at the Mile Marker hydraulic winch at the factory. I am going
> to buy one. They offer several advantages in my opinion. Lighter weight
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> Super Winch and Mile Marker. The big differences were both electric winches
> overheated and stalled after about 18 feet. The Mile Marker would pull all
-
FYI Superwinch (as well as Koenig) make hydraulic winches. I'm 
supprised at the hydraulic weighing significanlty less than a 
comparable electric. I would wonder about the ruggedness of the 
construction. If I'm buying a PTO or hydraulic winch, I'm buying it 
to WORK and want a *very* rugged construction. (Keep in mind here I 
haven't looked at the Milemarker)
FWIW I've used all three types and they all have their place. For 
constant duty service I'd go with mechanical. For casual use I have a 
Warn 8274 on my 88. I've had it for about 20 years and have used it 
for all kinds of pulling/lifting. I've stalled it several times from 
a too heavy load. I did burn up the motor once, but it was my own 
fault. I was winching my LR, and two other cars in tandem up a long 
steep hill. I got impatient and didn't let it cool down properly and I 
also hadn't installed heavier cables like I have now.
A mechanical winch, if properly set up, will allow a finer control of 
the line speed.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 12:55:37 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Winch Hydraulic D90

Mike Fredette

> 	This is something to think about I spose, and everyone has an opinion, but
> 	hydraulic and PTO type winches have been around for a long time. Electric
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> 	cited or others. Anyone else out there had any experiences they'd like to
> 	relate.
I suspect it's because electric are *much* easier to hook up and are 
generally cheaper purchased new. Plus most people who buy winches 
these days don't use them much. Hydraulic & PTO were used mostly buy 
construction companies and farmers who needed a constant duty tool. 
Electric winches are *not* designed for constant duty. But on the 
other hand most people don't use them for that. And with the 
improvement in electrical system design they've become more reliable 
I suppose.
Oh, I've *never* seen a hydraulic winch that wasn't messy. Of course 
that makes them fit right in with LR.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 14:24:39 EST
From: rdl@NomuraNY.COM (Rob Legerio)
Subject: Re: Winch Hydraulic D90

I too have been looking seriously into the Mile Marker winches.
I used the email information reqest in thier homepage some weeks
ago which got me a nice info pack which included a cool video
tape.  In the video tape they show the guts of the winch as
compared to an electric. It's much simpler and way beefier. 
I also called Mile Marker and spoke to a technical person
there (may have been JR to).  One important thing to note that
Darrel didn't mention in his post is that the rated power output
of the winch is for a power steering pump that puts out 1400 psi
at a flow rate of 4 GPM. The pump in a D90 puts out much less
than this. The person I spoke to was aware of this and told me
that at idle, the 9000lb winch would pull like a 7000. However,
if you install a hand throttle, you can up the rpms for more
power. (If I get the MM winch, I'll definetly do a hand throttle)
Also, the cost will be a bit higher than advertised because they
have to put special fittings on the lines to mate with the LR
plumbing.  You will also have to figure out how to mount it up.
It's a bit taller (10 inches) than some other winches but, does
use a standard mounting pattern.  I'm currently looking into how
I'll mount it up if I get one.

The biggest concern I have about the winch is that it won't work
unless the engine is running.  An electric, however, won't go for
long either, even with a dual batt setup.  I've already go a big
come-a-long so I'm not too worried about this drawback.    

Rob
94 D90

------------------------------

From: John White/jfrank/us <John_White@jfrank.COM>
Date: 18 Mar 96 11:37:56 
Subject: -No Subject-

who rro

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 11:38:07 PST
From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: Re: Winch Hydraulic D90

My only concern is that I've boiled my power steering fluid while winching.
While using an electric winch..... (Warn XD9000i)

I spend two-three hours winching, up hill, in a thick clay like mud.  
Winching was often at a side angle to the direction of the D90 to keep
it off a side embankment.  Also needed to steer to keep off of the 
embankment.  

A couple times I just stalled the winch and had to shovel.  Right before I
managed to get on solid ground the power steering fluid overheated.  Not
sure how I would have faired if that had also been my winch power source.
Anyway, lots of white smoke, no apparent long term damage to the pump.  
(Note, I was using a snatch block, and I've got front and rear ARB Air 
Lockers.  Major stuck....)  Anyway,  my feeling is that it may be more 
straight forward to upgrade one's electricals then upgrade the power steering. 

-Rick

  

>From PremierLe@aol.com Mon Mar 18 10:01:21 1996
>Return-Path: <PremierLe@aol.com>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 54 lines)]
>vehicle in the back lot. I went over and immediately looked at it. Neat!
>Darrell Brewer
>D90 wanabee

Richard Larson
LSI Logic Corporation
(408) 433-7149

------------------------------

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: RE: Winch Hydraulic D90
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 11:57:36 -0800

Is the winch intended for frequent "full-length" pulls or the occasional
un-stuck pull. For the occasional un-stuck a good electric should be
fine. The 18min of constant pulling referenced in the test would seem
(to me) to fall in to the "extreme" category for unsticking. Most
unstickings I've seen use 2-3 min of winching tops. Likewise a HD
electric (e.g. >= 8000 lb) won't working anywhere near it's rated
capacity for very long, if at all (when unsticking), hence allowing
longer pulls before overheating becomes an issue. 18 minutes should be
long enough to spool the whole reel of cable in most cases.

Just out of curiousity, what kind of braking is used on a hydraulic
winch. If the engine stops, does it become "free-wheeling" (yikes!)

-- Bob W.

>----------
>From: 	rdl@NomuraNY.COM[SMTP:rdl@NomuraNY.COM]
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 38 lines)]
>come-a-long so I'm not too worried about this drawback.    
>Rob
>94 D90

------------------------------

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: RE: Winch Hydraulic D90
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 11:59:51 -0800

>(Note, I was using a snatch block, and I've got front and rear ARB Air 
>Lockers.  Major stuck....)  Anyway,  my feeling is that it may be more 
>straight forward to upgrade one's electricals then upgrade the power
>steering. 
That and leaky electrons aren't as messy as leaky P.S. Fluid. :-)

>(Note, I was using a snatch block, and I've got front and rear ARB Air 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 11:14:18 -0700
From: Paul Orland <paulor@chs.com>
Subject: Mailing list

I subscribe to multiple mailing lists, RRO seems to be the only list (of the
ones I subscribe to) that has the the following problems:

1. When sending mail to the list, invariably multiple bounces are returned.

2. I frequently recieve duplicate, even triplicate copies of inbound mail.

What's the story?

- Paul.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 11:14:17 -0700
From: Paul Orland <paulor@chs.com>
Subject: Re: Accessories for Disco

At 11:33 AM 3/18/96 GMT, Andy Marshallsay wrote:
>Sun-hatches

>Anyone have any experience and cost of either the dealer fit ones, or
>third party accessories. 
>Oh yes the Disco is a 95 model year and has recesses in the headliner
>for the hatches, and I'd want the hatches to fit neatly into these of
>course.

I was told by my dealer (94 NAS Disco V8i) that the area above rear sunroof
recess had a structural support going through it when the vehicle was not
equiped with factory sunroofs. Take this second-hand (third hand?) heresay
info for what it is worth!

- Paul.

------------------------------

From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com>
Subject: Re: Winch Hydraulic D90
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 13:59:48 MST

Richard Larson says:

: My only concern is that I've boiled my power steering fluid while winching.
: While using an electric winch..... (Warn XD9000i)
: 
: A couple times I just stalled the winch and had to shovel.  Right before I
: managed to get on solid ground the power steering fluid overheated.  Not
: sure how I would have faired if that had also been my winch power source.
: Anyway, lots of white smoke, no apparent long term damage to the pump.  
: (Note, I was using a snatch block, and I've got front and rear ARB Air 
: Lockers.  Major stuck....)  Anyway,  my feeling is that it may be more 
: straight forward to upgrade one's electricals then upgrade the power steering. 

Like everyone else, I too am considering the pros & cons of hydraulic
winches.  Regarding the over heating issue, I believe Milemarker offers
power steering fluid coolers, and if they don't a small transmission oil
cooler might work (Or would it?  It would have to be rated for high
pressure).  It would help while winching as well as in the situation
Rick just described.  And given that airflow probably _IS_ a concern if
you're winching, you could attach a small electric fan.

For the ultimate insurnace, just get a small gas powered hydraulic pump
or APU; then you could winch indefinitely even when your primary engine
is dead.

--
Jeff Gauvin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 16:55:00 EST
From: rdl@NomuraNY.COM (Rob Legerio)
Subject: Re: Winch Hydraulic D90

  Another thing that the guy at Mile Marker told me was that Toyota
owners usualy put in a Saginaw PS pump.  It's a must anyway when
they do a suspension lift and install bigger tires as the stock
PS pump is wimpy.  Last Sat. while helping get a RR unstuck at the
NH Winter Safari, I noticed that there was difficulty turning the
front wheels when they were in deep.  I assume the RR has the
same PS pump as the D90?   I would be interested in other D90
owners thoughts on the need for more PS power in general. Should
you be able to turn the wheels easily no matter how deep the mud
or snow is?

Rob
94 D90

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 17:18:38 -0500
Subject: Range Rover Fuel Guage

I have been meaning to post this to the list since I got my new fuel tank,
has anyone who had their fuel tank replaced by LRNA on a '87-'91 noticed that
the low fuel light is going on sooner?  With my old tank I would put an
average of 16.5-17.0 gallons of gas in soon after the light went on.  With
the new tank I now put an average of 15.5-16.0 gallons of gas in after the
light goes on.  Can I adjust when the light goes on?  I would appreciate any
information on this.

Thanks, 

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Winch Hydraulic D90
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 14:23:48 -0800 (PST)
From: "Michael R Fredette" <mfredett@ptdcs2.intel.com>

	One more little tidbit to put things in perspective. Derrin mentioned
	going to look at a Camel Trophy truck parked out back of a dealer but
	neglected to mention that all the Camel trucks use Superwinch electric
	models on the Disco's. X9's up until 2 years ago, when they switched to 
	the Husky series of Superwinch. And you better believe that Camel vehicles
	see a LOT of winching. On top of that, they are diesel engines, which are
	even less prone to stalling in deep water/mud, yet they still feel the
	electric winches are best for the job. I've been to Moab twice for the Easter
	Jeep hooplah and never seen a hydraulic winch used, a PTO or two, but mostly
	electric. Not trying to poo-poo the hydraulic, just because everyone is
	doing something a particular way doesn't mean it's the best way, and electric
	winches may fall into this catagory. But, on the face of it anyway, it would
	seem that for the vast majority of the winching situations we face as
	"amatuer" offroaders, electric seems to offer the best compromise in terms of
	cost, ease of installation, available mounting options,etc. Who cares if the winch
	gets hot after a long pull, or the line is winding on the drum slowly.
        It's not a race (usually), so stop, rest, let the winch
	cool off, have a drink, joke with your fellow offroaders about how stupid you
	were getting stuck in the first place. Then when things cool off, finish the
	job, park, and go laugh at the same folks as they get stuck going through the 
	exact same spot, and watch thier winches work for awhile.:-)

	Rgds
	Mike Fredette
	Portland, Or.

------------------------------

From: lenagham@inetmail.bachman.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 17:29:30 EST
Subject: Re: Range Rover Fuel Guage

     Kevin,
     
     I think the only way to adjust this is to remove the float mechanism 
     from the tank. You can see it through the wheel arch on the lhs of the 
     vehicle. I don't know how easy or hard it is to remove. I haven't 
     noticed any big difference in when the low fuel light comes on since 
     the tank was replaced. I always seem to be putting fuel into it 
     anyway!
     
     Regards
     Mike

> Subject: Range Rover Fuel Guage
> Author:  KKelly6788@aol.com at inetmail

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
> Thanks, 
> Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 14:37:32 -0800
Subject: a first...waving

It finally happened; what a glorious day. We were on our way to eat
(Red Lobster) yesterday in Sacramento and we (4 wave capable and
one toddler) saw and waved (all of us!!) to another white Disco. It
was stuck at the light and they were forced to see us and then wave
back with a strange look on their faces, like: who are those
people, do we know them, oh gosh, I hope owning this Discovery
doesn't necessitate us waving to other LROs). We are no longer
wave-return virgins.

It's glorious to be alive isn't it (and driving a LR)????

Sorry, we also washed our D. after hitting Folsom lake and the
offroading offered there. The wife got a lesson from me (like I
know what I am doing, ha. Talk about the blind leading the blind).

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

------------------------------

From: lenagham@inetmail.bachman.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 17:38:08 EST
Subject: Range Rover horn/indicator switch

     Has anyone out there had to replace the horn/indicator switch on their 
     Range Rover? If so do you have the old one lying around and would you 
     like to donate the small black piece of plastice that is inside the 
     arm that has the horn icon direction arrows on it, to a good cause.
     
     When I bought my 87 RR in October pieces were rattling around inside 
     the arm of the switch, when I dismantled it I recovered all the pieces 
     and put it together but the plastic piece I mentioned was missing. 
     Obviously someone had it apart and never replaced it. The switch and 
     everything works fine, it just looks weird .
     
     If anyone can help out, send me an e-mail message and I'll get in 
     touch.
     
     Thanks
     Mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 18:00:27 EST
From: dmccor03@counsel.com (David McCormack -- Hinshaw ^ Culbertson - Brookfield )
Subject: Disco Alpine Windows

 To:	RRO List, 		Inet 	

My alpine windows leak too.  My dealer has tried three times now
to correct the problem.  Initially, I think the automobile glass
people (called in by the dealer) resealed the windows using the
original factory seals.  The first two attempts failed.  The most
recent attempt involved ordering new seals or gaskets from Land
Rover.  Being winter in Wisconsin, rain has been scarce, so I am
waiting to see if they got them fixed.  The glass people slathered
a lot of goop around the seals as well and onto the roof.  I did
not complain though - I just want the things fixed.  According to
the dealer, they removed the headliner and confirmed that it was
the windows that we're leaking.  I *hope* that is the only source
and that they got it fixed.

Dave McCormack
'95 Discovery 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 17:17:19 -0600
From: "John B. Friedman" <johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu>
Subject: Disco Octane

I have been experimenting with fuel in my 95 Disco 5sp. I started  
with the book, premium and then down to plus and then down to 1/2  
tank premium or plus and 1/2 tank regular. Now I am having good luck,  
not a bit of ping, from 6 gal. plus and the rest of the tank regular.  
I use this in the city and would still go to plus for highway driving  
and hills. John Friedman 

------------------------------

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: RE: Winch Hydraulic D90
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 15:21:30 -0800

>	models on the Disco's. X9's up until 2 years ago, when they switched
>to 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>	even less prone to stalling in deep water/mud, yet they still feel the
>	electric winches are best for the job. 

That and the diesels come with two batteries as I recall (presumably so
you have enough umph to beat that diesel compression ratio on a cold
morning). So, once the motor's running, you have lot's of electrons at
your disposal.
    _____
   /|__|_\__(|                           Bob Watson
  |   |   |  \                 a-robw@microsoft.com
  |---|___|___\____      Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA 
  |  _|=  |=  |o_  }\                
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/                            N7UMU

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 15:26:17 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: One Less Rattle - D90

Dear Andrew, 
Thanks for the tip - I'll check it on my '94. Lately, the rattles have 
gotten so loud, that I tried to drown them out with my kid's Green Day 
tape: I prefer the rattles!
It's almost time to take the soft top off - and I'll check the bolts then.
Best wishes,
David

------------------------------

From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: Disco Octane
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 16:38:08 MST

John B. Friedman says:

: I have been experimenting with fuel in my 95 Disco 5sp. I started  
: with the book, premium and then down to plus and then down to 1/2  
: tank premium or plus and 1/2 tank regular. Now I am having good luck,  
: not a bit of ping, from 6 gal. plus and the rest of the tank regular.  
: I use this in the city and would still go to plus for highway driving  
: and hills. John Friedman 

Last trip to the pump I decided to try a tank of 87 octane (mid-grade).
So far not a single complaint from under the hood, though I have yet to
climb any serious passes.

BTW - regarding the recent "Disco Power" thread about advancing your
timing for high altitudes, when I took my D90 in this morning for its
15K service I inquired about advancing the timing, and they said they
would be surprised if it wasn't already advanced.  The guy I spoke with
seemed to think they did it as a standard practice at the 6035 ft
Colorado Springs dealership, though I'm not sure how far they advance
it.

--
Jeff Gauvin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 18:46:16 -0500
From: Sanjay Prasad <Prasad@ba-iplaw.com>
Subject:  Range Rover Fuel Gauge -Reply

I recently had my tank replaced and have had a similar problem.  It's
annoying because the range of the RR fuel tank is already so small.  At
first I though the new tank might have been smaller, but Land Rover
Metro West in Natick, MA confirmed that the new tank is the same size
as the old one.  Unfortunately, I don't have an answer to the problem but
would be interested if you find one.

The other thing I have noticed is that it is more difficult to fill the tank
because the automatic cut-off on the gas station pump cuts off far
before the tank is actually full.  Also, the gauge doesn't always read that
it is full after the tank seems to have been filled.  I suspect/hope some of
these problems are of my own doing.  I haven't driven much since the
tank was replaced so I haven't yet pinpointed the exact problem(s).  In
the meantime, I would be interested to know if anyone else has
experienced the same problems.

Sanjay Prasad
'90 RR
Boston, Massachusetts

------------------------------

From: Peter Bradley <pbrad@dial.pipex.com>
Subject: corrosion (aluminium)
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 01:00:03 GMT

I have a '91 Disco which is rotting thru' from the inside - thru' the 
aluminium - anyone else got serious inside out corrosion ????
Peter Bradley

pbrad@dial.pipex.com		http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/pbrad/
'91 Disco tdi			'93 Foers Ibex 240 tdi

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 20:44:33 -0500 (EST)
From: "Paul O'Donnell" <paulod@erols.com>
Subject: Correction on clicker info

Please disregard my previous reply to your question about the remote control
for the doors/alarm. The correct info follows: 92-93 Range Rovers used a
transmitter that I believe was sourced from Alpine(of car stereo fame). I
think that the alarms and stereo equipment were installed at the port of
entry. The 92-93 remote transmitters are about $70.00 (list price) and
require a prom kit (about $50.00) with chips to go into the transmitter and
the control unit in the vehicle. There are chips in the prom kit sufficent
to do 2 or 3 transmitters and the control unit. 94 and 95 Discoveries and
Range Rovers (not sure about 4.0's) use a Lucas transmitter (about half the
price) and don't require chip replacement, they can be synchronized without
any special equipment. 96 Discoveries need to be synchronized with the help
of the dealers diagnostic computer(TestBook). Sorry for the confusion.
                              Paul   91 Range Rover(no clicker) 

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 21:18:40 -0500
Subject: V8 carb. model,Filters

Jim: I dont know of any available after market air filters other than the
Bearmach ones offered by DAP. I think that these are pretty specific to Range
Rovers air cleaner housing. The K&N filters for Zenith-Stromberg would bolt
on, as would other boy racer type after market filters found in MGB catalogs.
Ive used Fram PH-8 and equiv. for oil filters, but if I am ordering from RN I
sometimes opt for OEM. The last one I got was a Coopers from DAP. Fuel filter
is in-line from NAPA. Just match fuel line size. I havent done the PS filter
yet, but it would be a good idea. In the past I had a Jag MkII and I took the
old filter to NAPA and was able to match one pretty easily. Sometimes tho the
price diff. isnt worth the effort and I just get the stuff by the numbers
from RN.

------------------------------

From: rruffer@interserv.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 19:24:11 -0800
Subject: D90 Winches

Thanks all for the winch replies.  The weak power steering pump concerns me with 
hydraulic winches, so I'm leaning towards electric.  

I've read that two batteries and some sort of anti-drain cut off switch should 
be used with electric winches.  Do people really do this?  I've also read that a 
minimum 100 amp alternator is needed.  The shop manual for the '94 D90 lists the 
alternator as putting out 85 amps.  Problem?  

Finally, I've seen a nifty Warn X8000i winch setup that mounts into a class III 
receiver hitch. With a receiver mounted on the front, you can put the winch at 
either end of the D90 depending upon how badly you get into trouble.  Is an 8000 
lb. winch sufficient for occasional unsticking?  Does anyone have experience 
with this mounting system?  Thanks in advance.

Rich Ruffer
Morristown NJ
rruffer@interserv.com
rufferr@moodys.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 12:51:10 EST
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: RR parts FS,  

Dear list:
following is for sale, all from '91 RR, 66k miles:
Frame $800, w. axles $2000.
gas tank $200
prop-shafts $200
PS box $200

To J.Roth, re Alfas - did you realise there's yet another Alfa-LR commonality:
"Disco" name ?
Jan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 21:30:30 -0800
From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: Re: D90 Winches

At  7:24 PM 3/18/96 -0800, rruffer@interserv.com wrote:
>Thanks all for the winch replies.  The weak power steering pump concerns me
>with
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>be used with electric winches.  Do people really do this?  I've also read that
>a

Yes they do.  Two Optima batteries fit nicely in the stock location.  Still
pondering the isolator question.  I'll get to it someday.  Actually alot of
people just wire up a switch.  If the batteries aren't matched an isolator
is required to prevent one battery from discharging the other.

>minimum 100 amp alternator is needed.  The shop manual for the '94 D90 lists
>the
>alternator as putting out 85 amps.  Problem?
>I've read that two batteries and some sort of anti-drain cut off switch should

Winches are rated on a test bench.  Big cables and unlimited power.  In a
real vehicle it will be derated by cables, and your alternator.  I'd recommend
installing the winch and using it.  If it seems to need more umph up the
wire size and or the alternator.

I've had no problems running my XD9000i off the stock alternator and battery.
I added the 2nd battery more as a reserve power source for accessories around
camp than as extra winch power.

>Finally, I've seen a nifty Warn X8000i winch setup that mounts into a class
>III
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>lb. winch sufficient for occasional unsticking?  Does anyone have experience
>with this mounting system?  Thanks in advance.

I personally have a permanent front bumper mount.  For occasional, straight
on pulls, I think the receiver thing is a good idea.  Seems to be a bit suspect
for heavy side pulls.   I've also taken off my rear receiver hitch/bumper for
a better (much) departure angle.  Receiver thing really isn't an option for
me.  If cost is a consideration it is definitely a way to go.  Can always
convert to a permanent mount in the future.  Don't necessarily even have to
work the front mount up right away either.  In almost all situtations I've
winched in I've had room face the right direction.  Usually the bigger
problem is a none winch equipped vehicle in between the winch vehicle and
the stuck vehicle.

>Rich Ruffer
>Morristown NJ
>rruffer@interserv.com
>rufferr@moodys.com

-Rick
'94 D90 with winch and stuff....

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Electric winches
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 17:14:50 +1030 (CDT)

Hi all, with all this talk of electric winches, dual batteries and 
battery isolaton switches, dont forget to fit an isolator switch *between* 
the winch and its power source.  Make sure its somewhere where you can 
get at it in a hurry.

Why ? Well If/when the winch relay jams in the On position you want to be 
able to stop the winch *before* your beloved makes contact with the 
tree/vehicle you are using as an anchor.  If you leave the switch in the 
off position it also prevents the winch dragging the fairlead rollers 
through your bumper mount when it short circuits following deep  
muddy water crossings.

Marine type battery isolation switches seem to be able to cope with the 
current, ask your supplier...

cheers
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 19:32:12 UT
From: "Matthew Loxton" <mloxton@msn.com>
Subject: fuel tanks

Somebody was taking about extra fuel tanks on Range-Rovers. A local crowd in 
JNB have a methods of adding a 40L wing tank and a 60L dump-tank to the 
Rangie. The wing-tank is fed from the main and is thus just an extension to 
the main. The second tank rides piggyback to main and dumps its full load when 
a cock is activated, either by solenoid or cable, into the main tank. It fills 
from a second filler pipe which can be inside the cab or outside.

Cost is around R2500 all told. 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 07:57:15 -0500
From: RICHARD_COLEMAN@fmso.navy.mil (RICHARD COLEMAN)
Subject: The Money Pit...Redux

         Well,' The Money Pit' has done it to me again.
         She's in the shop for the following;

             1. gas tank recall...I remember some of you
         saying you got charged for a new filter...I'll let
         you know what happens.

             2. rear upper hatch replacement ....under 6
         year corrosion warranty.....remember I had to write
         a letter to Mr. Hughes (LRNA pres.) to get this
         straightened out.

             3. ABS light on.....turns out this is a brake
         switch....to be replaced at Land Rover expense due
         to a recall?/tech service bulletin of a few years
         ago...does that ring any bells with anyone?

             4. vehicle wobble at idle speed...my
         description...dealer says that tires are out of
         round AND I need new ROTORS and PADS all around.
         His price for this is $600+ for the fronts and
         $500+ for the rears. Any comments on the price or
         the fact that this vehicle only has 66K miles on
         it?
              I'll be having another brake place give me an
         estimate and I'll be checking other parts houses
         for cost of rotors and pads. Any suggestions would
         be appreciated.
              The wife is pushing to dump this vehicle in
         favor of ANYTHING.....hmmmm.....Landcruiser???

                              Brake..Broke..Broken

                                 Rick
                                 90 RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 08:20:12 -0500
Subject: Thanks to Bill Carter
From: "Andrew A. Dallas" <adallas@systemsoft.com>

I was in a fender bender or more appropriately a Ford Taurus bender about 
a month ago. My vehicle was barely touched except for a bent brush bar. 
My body shop put on what looked to me to be a whimpy replacement bar at a 
cost of about $545.00 US. I asked them to put on the original version but 
they said it had been discontinued. I heard that Bill had an extra bar 
after installing a winch so I purchased it. Twenty minutes of wrench 
turning and $195.00 and I'm back in business.

Bill's bar was in excellent condition and he sent it to me very quickly. 

Thanks Bill. I hope you don't get stuck in any muck this year unless you 
want to play with your new winch.
-AD

************************************************************************
 Andrew A. Dallas
 Full Spectrum Software, Inc.
 30 Whittemore Road
 Newton, MA 02158, USA

 (617) 965-7580, On Site Office: (508) 647-2948
 email: adallas@tiac.net, Web Page: http://www.tiac.net/users/adallas/
************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 08:03:18 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: D90 Winches

 Rich Ruffer writes:
> Thanks all for the winch replies.  The weak power steering pump concerns me with 
> hydraulic winches, so I'm leaning towards electric.  
-
Northern Hydraulics sells a hydraulic pump that is belt driven with 
an electric clutch that would probably work for a hydraulic winch.
http://www.northern-online.com/

> I've read that two batteries and some sort of anti-drain cut off switch should 
> be used with electric winches.  Do people really do this?
-
Good investment. But contrary to what the Milemarker web site says 
(after all, they're trying to sell their winch) you don't need *two* 
heavy duty batteries. Adding an electric winch doesn't mean you need 
a better battery for your engine per se, only if it's your only 
battery. If you have two batteries, your winch battery should be a 
deep cycle. You can add a Ford type starter solenoid (activated by a 
manual switch, I recommend a momentary so you don't accidently leave 
it on, or add a *bright* indicator light) between it and your starter 
battery in case you need a boost. A cut off switch between the 
battery and winch is a good idea. Make sure you get one rated for  
high amps..

> I've also read that a minimum 100 amp alternator is needed.  The 
>shop manual for the '94 D90 lists the alternator as putting out 85 amps.  Problem?  
-
I have a Delco 108 amp, but an 85 amp should be fine for most 
situations.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 09:26:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Winch Hydraulic D90/Pwr Steering Overheat?

In a message dated 96-03-18 15:02:01 EST, you write:

> Right before I
>managed to get on solid ground the power steering fluid overheated.  Not
>sure how I would have faired if that had also been my winch power source.

Rick, any ideas how/why this happened?  I've never heard of this on any car
ever?  You were trying to get out at an angle?  Do you think you had the
steering cranked to one side for too long and cavatating the pump?  
John.

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 09:26:36 -0500
Subject: Re: One Less Rattle - D90

In a message dated 96-03-18 18:32:59 EST, you write:

>It's almost time to take the soft top off - and I'll check the bolts then.
>Best wishes,
>David

Mean David, plum mean!

John, Wisconsin
("hey, it's *almost* time to take the top off here too!!")

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 09:26:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Winch Hydraulic D90

In a message dated 96-03-18 16:20:17 EST, you write:

>Regarding the over heating issue, I believe Milemarker offers
>power steering fluid coolers, and if they don't a small transmission oil
>cooler might work (Or would it?  It would have to be rated for high
>pressure).  It would help while winching as well as in the situation
>Rick just described.

What about putting the cooler on the LOW pressure side?  I remember seeing
OEM "coolers" on power steering units, but I don't remember what side they
are on , high or low.
John.

------------------------------

From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 09:54:19 +0100
Subject: Removing air dam on 96 NAS Disco

Any insight on removing the air dam on a 96 NAS Disco? It seems to
me that there are four lights and the headlight washers mounted on
it. Or, how do I keep it from getting so jammed in mud that it comes
off? (Not driving in mud is not an option.)

--
Gerald
Massachusetts, U.S.
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 52 lines 2257 [forwarded 260 whitespace 495]
 Output: lines 1699 [content 1131  forwarded 113 (cut  147) whitespace 455]

Additional Information:

In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved
(by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Useful commands for this are 'index uk-lro-digest' which returns a list of
files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc.

Range Rover World Wide Web Sites start at 
         http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html
(shadow) http://www.OpenMarket.com/personal/caloccia/lr/pages.html

Range Rover Register:	http://www.apricot.co.uk/rel3/directory/rrr/index.html
RoverWeb:		http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/RoverWeb/
Lloyd's			http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/

If Major Domo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

  -B