The Coil Sprung (Land-Rover) Owner List Daily Digest

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From: Danny Phillips <danny@tlpgate.lonpar.co.uk>
Subject: re: walnut dash bits
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 96 16:22:37 BST

hi, one company that do it (the walnut burr) over here in the uk is
autostyle ltd
unit 14
castle view business estate
gas house road
rochester
kent
me1 1pb
tel 01634 840530
fax 01634 844424
 

hope this helps
danny

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 08:44:33 -0700
From: marbourg@lanl.gov (Douglas C. Marbourg)
Subject: Hydraulic Winch

Greetings,

I have a question.  I'm concidering purchasing a hydraulic (power steering
pump driven) winch for my D90.  I've weighed the pros and cons of both
electric and hydraulic, and feel that for my needs, the hydraulic is the
one.  The final determining factor is: How hard is the winch, under full
load, on the power steering pump?  I've seen the cost of a new PS pump and
don't want to be replacing it every few years.  Thanks.
Happy Trails!,

Doug Marbourg: Santa Fe NM, 94' NAS D90
marbourg@lanl.gov

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 10:44:58 -0500
Subject: Address Change

To all,

Well, looks like the net police caught up with me.  I can still receive
individual mail at my old address (smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil), but
anything from either land-rover-owner or rro is being bounced.  I will be
unsubscribing the old address from both systems.  If this has been clogging
up either mail system, my profound appologies.

I will monitor the nets thru AOL from now on.  E-mail can be received at
either the old or this new address.

'til later,

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 10:15:14 GMT -0600
Subject: shackle ratings

Here are the ratings as I promised:

Glavanized alloy steel (non alloy are about 60% of this rating, SS 
are about half)
These are for the shackles that are more of a C shape. The ones that 
are D shaped (properly known as Chain Shackles) are about 60% of this 
rating.

Stock dia.     Pin dia.         Working load
3/8                    7/16                 4000
1/2                    5/8                    6500  
5/8                    3/4                   10000
3/4                    7/8                   14000
7/8                    1                       19000
1                        1 1/8                25000
1 1/4                 1 3/8                36000

As you can see, you have to get a pretty large shackle to even equal 
the ratings of most tow starps. Granted, I'm sure the breaking limit 
of the shackle is substanially greater.

I have four of the 5/8 mounted on my LR. They've served me well, but 
I'm careful to not overload them.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: 01 Apr 96 11:40:15 EST
From: Tom Snurka <76550.2503@compuserve.com>
Subject: K&N Air Filter

Chris Browne writes:
>>any opinions on K&N's products based on real world experience<<

I have used K&N air filters on two BMW's for a combined mileage of over 350,000
miles.  Both engines have been torn down for inspection and have shown no
evidence that the air filters have not done their respective jobs.  I do think
the fact that the filters are renewable leads me to do maintenance on a shorter
time schedule than if I was simply removing and replacing a conventional paper
filter.

I do confess to not having investigated replacing the existing filter on my
Disco with a K&N.  I will do so at the first opportunity.  Who is selling them
and what is the stock number? 

Tom

------------------------------

Date: 01 Apr 96 12:32:10 EST
From: <Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: OEM v K&N continued

     Grant said
     "I have had a K&N on mine for about 4 months now.  It does seem to 
     breathe better, but I am not sure if it is due to the K&N or the 
     removal of the very restricting air box.  
     
     Let me get this right-when installing a K&N filter you removed the 
     entire black box containing the filter?????? -Wow! do you have to? 
     Any increase in induction noise when set up like that? 
     regards
     chris browne

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 12:44:42 -0500
Subject: Rover Group Fax # 

>Does anyone on the list have a fax number for LR in Soliull?

The Fax # at the Rover Group in Solihull is 0121-742-1927

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: RE: OEM v K&N continued
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 09:51:42 -0800

I looked into that option (i.e. replacing the whole filter & box assy.
with a cartridge) but my reaction and that of the guy behind the counter
was that the K&N would be much more succeptible to ingesting water when
fording.  Having already had one bad fording experience (with my Jeep),
that was enough to dissuade me. OTOH, you can get a replacement element
(if's the same as the filter in a 1991 Porshe 944 turbo, since the LR
isn't listed in the catalog) that fits in the filter box but for $85 I
can wait. (that's about 80K miles worth of paper filters).
As always, YMMV

-- Bob W.
>----------
>From:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
>     regards
>     chris browne

------------------------------

From: BMR2%OPS%DCPP@go50.comp.pge.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 96 10:05:13 PST
Subject: Erratic idle 89RR

I guess it is about time to ask for some net wisdom. My 89 RR has an erratic 
idle that I can+t seem to fix. I tried replacing the stepper motor and checked 
for vacuum leaks, cleaned the connection to the flow sensor and even made sure 
the air filter was not to dirty. None of the above helped, is this a Rover 
thing or is there something wrong. The idle fluctuates about 100-200 rpm. I 
also checked the timing

Thank You,
Brian Rainbolt
89 RR
Atascadero, Ca

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 10:14:34 -0800
From: Christopher Boese <cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us>
Subject: Re: Erratic idle 89RR

Brian Rainbolt noticed:

> The idle fluctuates about 100-200 rpm.

My '95 Discovery does this too. I've assumed there's nothing wrong, but 
perhaps I should wait and see what everyone else has to say.

-- 
Christopher Boese
County of San Bernardino, California
Information Services, Information Systems Security Office
'95 beluga black Discovery V8i

------------------------------

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: RE: Disco Tow Point
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 10:16:20 -0800

Does anyone know, _for sure_, if the Genuine Parts (GP) brush bar will
(or will not) work with the front receiver? I'd like to have both (even
though I have a low opinion of the GP brush bar's utility) The other
option I'd considered was to go to a hitch shop and have one fabricated.

>So, changing topics slightly, what is the best way to attempt recovery
>on a
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>for
>extraction on the bumper?  Will the bumper fail completely or just
>bend?
I don't know about the bumper, but I've used the GP brush bar as a jack
point for the hi-lift. One note of caution, I had to modify the mounting
a bit since the brush bar isn't really meant for that. On the bumper,
behind each of the center vertical bars of the brush bar, I tapped a
hole for a bolt that the brush bar pushes against to keep it from
folding back onto the hood. Then I set the hi-lift between the towing
eyes and the brush bar frame. Crude, but it works. One of these days
I'll toss all that and mount a "REAL" bumper, but for now, I'm resisting
the (powerful) temptation to turn the family car into a Camel Trophy
lookalike.
    _____
   /|__|_\__(|                           Bob Watson
  |   |   |  \                 a-robw@microsoft.com
  |---|___|___\____      Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA 
  |  _|=  |=  |o_  }\                
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/                            N7UMU

>So, changing topics slightly, what is the best way to attempt recovery
>on a

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 10:21:18 -0800 (PST)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: ft page 7

April fools, right?  Maybe not.

A point to consider with such things is that quality to the vehicle
manufacturer may have little to do with perceived quality to the longterm
end-user.  Land Rover is most likely looking at things like gratis design
work, reject rate in any given lot of electronic widgets, subsequent
failure during the warranty period, and other issues that cost them money. 
For us, it's failure through faulty design, questionable materials, and
failure after the warranty period, 5, 10 and even 30 years out from date
of manufacture; things that cost us money and inconvenience. 

Some years ago I recall reading a trade journal piece written by engineers
for a very large US vehicle manufacturer (no GM bashing allowed) 
discussing the materials and design of engine seals that would get them 
through the warranty period, but wouldn't last indefinitely.  

Rgds,

Walt          * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 
              * Walter C. Swain         | wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us       *
              * Davis Community Network | 1988 Range Rover              * 
              * Davis, California       | 1967 109 Series IIA Safari SW *
              * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

On Mon, 1 Apr 1996, Danny Phillips wrote:

>  Dear all, i realise i have broken a cardinal sin by cross posting to both
>  lists, but for all of you who can get the financial times, page 7 has a full
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
>  said they were of a higher quality.....ha ha ha ha ha ha bonk (laughed my
>  head off, old but funny) :-)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 10:27:34 -0800
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: air dam

>Seriously, though, if you are in a position where the hooks or reciever are
>needed, I'd bet the front dam is toast anyway.

Just to add a counter-example to the overwhelmingly anti-air-dam consensus: 
I like my air dam, and so far I've been able to keep it.  It's intact and in 
place on my '88 RR, and I've been through some fairly rough offroad 
conditions with it (no snow plowing though).  No offense to anyone who's 
mangled it, but I think damage can be avoided by knowing your vehicle (Tim, 
please, no comments about my sacraficial right rear panel).  With a longer 
wheel base, the front end drops into ditches less steeply than, say, a D90.  

I also have an RN front receiver poking out through it, and on one occasion 
my forward progress stopped when the shackle adapter on front contacted 
rock.  Without the receiver, I probably would have done some damage, and the 
air dam would have been the least of it.

-Matt

------------------------------

From: BMR2%OPS%DCPP@go50.comp.pge.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 96 10:28:45 PST
Subject: Erratic idle 89 RR

I guess it is about time to ask for some net wisdom. My 89 RR has an erratic 
idle that I can+t seem to fix. I tried replacing the stepper motor, checked 
for vacuum leaks, cleaned the connection to the flow sensor and even made sure 
the air filter was not too dirty. None of the above helped, is this a Rover 
thing or is there something wrong. The idle fluctuates about 100-200 rpm. I 
also checked the timing.

Thank You,
Brian Rainbolt
89 RR
Atascadero, Ca

------------------------------

From: lenagham@inetmail.bachman.com
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 96 13:31:07 EST
Subject: Re: Erratic idle 89RR

     Brian,
     
     Make sure you don't have an air leak in the crankcase breathing 
     circuit. The flame trap screwed into the right hand rocker cover has a 
     hose that is connected to a T-piece, the other 2 connections at the T 
     piece are hoses that go to the plenum chamber (front most input on 
     left hand side) and to the intake portion of the plenum chamber.  The 
     T piece disintegrates over time and needs replacing so an air leak 
     there is possible. While you are checking all of this clean out the 
     flame trap and clean all the air ways and throttle plate with carb 
     cleaner (make sure its oxygen sensor safe).
     
     Idle fluctuations of 100-200 rpm are not a Rover thing.
     
     Good Luck
     Mike Lenaghan
     87 RRs (2)
     

> Subject: Erratic idle 89RR
> Author:  BMR2%OPS%DCPP@go50.comp.pge.com at inetmail

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
> 89 RR
> Atascadero, Ca

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 11:47:57 -0700
From: marbourg@lanl.gov (Douglas C. Marbourg)
Subject: Paint Care

Well, I'm the proud owner of a new ding in my D90...Swung left in reverse,
looked right, left front hit a dead Pinon tree branch...Result, small crease
on left front fender. Sigh...  

The next day I went to my local Pep Boy's and got some mild scratch remover
and Blue Coral surface sealer/wax (the later product claims to have the most
UV protection on the market).  Anyway, after removeing the scratches, I
noticed some red paint on my cloth.  I figured this was normal while using a
polishing compound on a non-clear coated finish, but the same thing happend
with the sealer/wax.  Oxidation already!??  

My question is, how often do most of you out there wax/seal your paint?  I
live in New Mexico at about 7000' elev. and the UV is intense.  To make
matters worse, my vehicle is red, and I'm afraid that I'll have a pink D90
in about 4 years.  Thanks.
Happy Trails!,

Doug Marbourg: Santa Fe NM, 94' NAS D90
marbourg@lanl.gov

------------------------------

From: lenagham@inetmail.bachman.com
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 96 12:07:36 EST
Subject: Range Rover Speedometer - Again!!!

     I think I fixed it!!!
     
     A few weeks ago a posted a problem with the speedo in my 87 RR. Needle 
     fluctuating wildly and the whole thing clicking continually and the 
     odometer didn't register. Well before I got a chance to pull it apart 
     the clicking stopped and the needle went back to normal but the 
     odometer still didn't work.
     
     On Saturday I pulled the speedo out the car to find out what the 
     problem was. Gerald Tan posted the steps to do this in response to my 
     original message so I won't repeat them here. Additional steps were as 
     follows:
     
     Carefully remove the needle and the two screws that hold the face 
     plate to the workings. You can now see things better, but it is not 
     obvious how too dismantle it further - the good news is that you don't 
     need to. I think the problem is the worm drive that you can just see 
     underneath the gears for the odometer and trip meter (it is made of 
     white plastic). At its top end (top right looking into mechanism) this 
     drive is a push fit and over the years (miles) the whole mechanism 
     works upwards, so whatever it connects to at the bottom end (which you 
     can't see) where it receives its drive from the cable isn't meshing 
     right. The solution is to push the worm drive back down - it can be 
     reached at the top to do this using a small screwdriver.
     
     I reassembled the whole thing and put it back into the vehicle and 
     everything works fine again - no clicking and no erratic needle 
     movement. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it doesn't recur when I 
     hit the next 1000 mark.
     
     The above explanation is easier than it sounds!
     
     Regards
     Mike Lenaghan
     87 RRs (2)

------------------------------

From: Peter Bradley <pbrad@dial.pipex.com>
Subject: Tow points etc
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 96 19:05:27 GMT

I believe the military D ring which everybody refers to is what we 
(in the UK) call a JATE ring.  I don't know what JATE stands for but 
when I bought mine some years ago I'm sure the LR label on the 
packaging said "lifting ring".  Are they made for air lifting 
vehicles by helicopter ??  They are certainly very strong but make 
sure the bolts are up to the job if using kinetic ropes - I got mine 
from the local hydraulic engineering company - I think they came from 
some part of a JCB excavator (VERY high tensile).  You can fit 4 on a 
Disco, it's pretty obvious where they go but the front ones can be a 
bit of a tight fit.

A better solution is to use a 5 tonne Dixon Bate tow pintel but that 
involves a bit of welding, fabrication, and bumper cutting.  I have 
one front and rear, the front one fitted to a made up front 
crossmember, and the back one bolted straight on to the rear 
(modified ) crossmember.  They are expensive at about UKP 55 - 60 
each but it's good kit and you get a very safe KERR point.

Peter Bradley

pbrad@dial.pipex.com		http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/pbrad/
'91 Disco tdi			'93 Foers Ibex 240 tdi

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 11:53:05 -0800
From: Russ Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Paint Care

I try to use MUD. A good thick coat provides a great UV filter.
The Red mud from the south east is the best, it does not smell to
bad, and has good staying power.
The black mud on the north is not bad, if you can put up with
the smell, and the bugs....
The alkali junk from the southwest is fairly permanment. You
have to chisel it off. I would not  recommend it for a paint sealer.

Good luck
Russ

At 11:47 AM 4/1/96 -0700, Douglas C. Marbourg wrote:
>Well, I'm the proud owner of a new ding in my D90...Swung left in reverse,
>looked right, left front hit a dead Pinon tree branch...Result, small crease
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)]
>Doug Marbourg: Santa Fe NM, 94' NAS D90
>marbourg@lanl.gov
Russ Burns
cisco/Ford
313-317-0451

------------------------------

Date: 01 Apr 96 15:41:22 EST
From: <Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: Disco tow point and camel confession

     Bob says
     " I'm resisting the (powerful) temptation to turn the family car into 
     a Camel Trophy lookalike."
     Me too Bob. Give me a few years and I know it will happen. I am going 
     to try and do it piece by piece as the wife and wallet allow. 
     
     My wish list includes:
     
        a front end receiver mount (no need to carry a winch all the time), 
        plus a winch
        Hella 2000 or Piaa mounted directly on the bumper (wife doesn't     
        like the bull bar),  
        110 steel wheels painted to match body color with 215/85 16         
        (equivalent to 7.00r16 per Craddocks) mud tires, hang on, why       
        not paint them AAyellow  to contrast the portafino red              
        Hmm tasteful! 
        Roof rack (Honey, its that or a trailer when we go camping with the 
        kid and dogs:) ) making mounts for 4 lights on the roof rack (can't 
        be too difficult)  
     
     The neat thing is that it can be added on when you want it, taken off 
     when you don't allowing the car to look perfectly ordinary. 
     Now all I need is about $3k to do it.
     
        Ok I confessed.
        thank you
        Chris Browne
        95 Disco 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 16:15:04 -0500
From: Shaun Carrigan <shaunc@infi.net>
Subject: Re: air dam

Mud was what aggravated my air dam (currently lacerated and sitting on 
the patio). The propensity to scoop when trying to back out of a sticky 
situation caused a great deal of heartache. Admittedly, the RR doesn't 
have that finished look sans spoiler, but I'm learning to like it. 
Anybody considered salvaging their air dam fog lights and mounting on 
the brush bar or bumper? 

Shaun Carrigan
'88 RR

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 16:17:42 -0500
From: Shaun Carrigan <shaunc@infi.net>
Subject: Range Rover window motor

I recently posted a query about window motors but no response. Am I 
dreaming or wasn't there a recent thread regarding using salvaged 
Mercedes window motors? Any tips about installation much appreciated.

Shaun Carrigan
'88 RR

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 16:01:19 -0700
From: marbourg@lanl.gov (Douglas C. Marbourg)
Subject: Re: shackle ratings

>I have four of the 5/8 mounted on my LR. They've served me well, but 
>I'm careful to not overload them.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
>trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

Okay, I know were all tired of tow points, but Tom, (Sorry!) How and were
did ya mount them. I would love to mount two on the front bumper and two on
the rear... Somewhere. 
Happy Trails,

Doug Marbourg, 94' NAS D90 #1123
marbourg@lanl.gov

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 17:08:37 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: shackle mounting (was ratings)

Doug Marbourg asks:

>Okay, I know were all tired of tow points, but Tom, (Sorry!) How and were
>did ya mount them. I would love to mount two on the front bumper and two on
>the rear... Somewhere. 
-
I have an ex-MoD Series which has four lifting rings that are made 
from thick (about 1") steel. They are mounted with two bolts on the 
top of the front bumper and on the face of the rear crossmember. My 
shackles fit them quite nicely. As for mounting on a Defender, sorry, 
but I couldn't begin to guess.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: lenagham@inetmail.bachman.com
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 96 18:23:13 EST
Subject: Re: Range Rover window motor

     Shaun,
     
     the only thread I remember on Mercedes parts were the seat switches. 
     That was on the lro list some time back. I have to keep subscribing 
     and unsubscribing when I travel on business otherwise too much mail 
     builds up - so I miss things from time to time. Touch wood I haven't 
     had any problems with the window motor. I have had the covers off the 
     doors to adjust the latches and like most cars there didn't seem to be 
     much room.
     
     The leakage on my RR seals is from the large seal on the swivel joint 
     and it appears to be seepage, I'm sure that it could last a while 
     before it had to be done but I want to get it out of the way. It will 
     have to wait until after April 15th - I haven't done my taxes yet!
     
     I broke the air dam on my first RR a few years back - also stuck in 
     mud. I kept the lights but threw out the air dam. The lights are still 
     sitting in my basement. I added a small air deflector which tidies up 
     the front end. It was the kind fitted to the GDE vehicles and I got it 
     from RN. I've also fitted a front receiver hitch in the hope I'll be 
     able to afford a winch some day.  Anyone else that is going to fit one 
     of these front receiver hitches - paint it with some heavy duty paint 
     before fitting. After one winter mine has lost its paint and has a 
     light covering of rust!
     
     Mike Lenaghan
     87 RRs (2)

> Subject: Range Rover window motor
> Author:  shaunc@infi.net at inetmail

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
> Shaun Carrigan
> '88 RR

------------------------------

From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com>
Subject: Re: shackle ratings
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 96 16:32:25 MST

Douglas C. Marbour asks:
> Tom Rowe says:
> >I have four of the 5/8 mounted on my LR. They've served me well, but 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> the rear... Somewhere. 
> Happy Trails,

Now you've opened up a can of worms...

I saw pictures in a 4x4 rag that showed tow-bar mounts bolted to the
front bumper of a D90, allowing it to be flat towed.  I think they were
just bolted through the bumper close to where it connects to the frame.

This got me to thinkin' (always dangerous).  I looked at my bumper, then
I looked at the bumper on a '95.  Hmmm....they're different!  My '94
bumper does not have any "material" on the bottom edge in the center
area, but the '95 I saw did.  This probably means that my bumper is
weaker, but I'm going to replace it with an ARB bumper, so who cares!
Informal survey:  who's got the "weak" bumpers and who has the "strong"
ones?  Is this another difference for the '94 vs.  '95 list?

Anyway, a set of these tow-bar mounts would probably provide a handy
place to connect shackles, assuming your bumper is strong enough.  Not
sure where you'd find them, maybe an RV or trailer supply shop?  I'm
going for the military tow rings myself.

--
Jeff Gauvin
'94 D90

------------------------------

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: RE: shackle ratings
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 15:50:04 -0800

>This got me to thinkin' (always dangerous).  I looked at my bumper,
>then
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Informal survey:  who's got the "weak" bumpers and who has the "strong"
>ones?  Is this another difference for the '94 vs.  '95 list?
BIG caution... Be very careful about using towbar mounts for recovery.
The requirements to pull a vehicle behind your motorhome and to pull it
out of the bog are vastly different (i.e. by an order of magnitude).
Something to do with the difference in the coefficient of friction. If
you want to use the towbar mounts for recovery, this should be made VERY
clear to the person buying and/or installing the tow bar. I wouldn't put
much faith in the ones I've seen at the RV stores for use in vehicle
recovery. 

Just my $.02

>Anyway, a set of these tow-bar mounts would probably provide a handy
>place to connect shackles, assuming your bumper is strong enough.  Not
>sure where you'd find them, maybe an RV or trailer supply shop?  I'm
>going for the military tow rings myself.
A much more reliable route if you extraction on your mind.
>    _____
>   /|__|_\__(|                           Bob Watson
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
>    \_/        \_/                            N7UMU

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 17:23:28 -0800 (PST)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Class III Hitch Ratings (was shackle ratings)

This raises a question that has been in the back of my mind since the
thread began; just how stout is the factory installed Class III hitch? 
They seem to be on all the RR, Discos and (I think) Defenders since LRNA
returned.  I have to admit that I have an insert with a tow pin that I got
specifically for the purpose of pulling or being pulled in awkward
situations, but I don't really know if it is suitable for that use.  I'd
like to have a greater degree of certainty than an unfounded hope. 

Rgds, 

Walt
              * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 
              * Walter C. Swain         | wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us       *
              * Davis Community Network | 1988 Range Rover              * 
              * Davis, California       | 1967 109 Series IIA Safari SW *
              * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

On Mon, 1 Apr 1996, Robert Watson (CNA) wrote:

> BIG caution... Be very careful about using towbar mounts for recovery.
> The requirements to pull a vehicle behind your motorhome and to pull it
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> recovery. 
> Just my $.02

------------------------------

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: RE: Class III Hitch Ratings (was shackle ratings)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 17:34:39 -0800

>This raises a question that has been in the back of my mind since the
>thread began; just how stout is the factory installed Class III hitch? 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>I'd
>like to have a greater degree of certainty than an unfounded hope. 

>The 95 Discovery Owner's manual says you can pull a 7000 lb trailer in
>lo-range with it, so for starters, I'd say it's at least that strong.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>will tell, I suppose. My concern regarding this is in how big of winch
>could I put on it.? From previous queries, it seems as though the 8000#
 size isn't a problem.
>    _____
>   /|__|_\__(|                           Bob Watson
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
>    \_/        \_/                            N7UMU

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 19:30:22 -0800
From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net>
Subject: Disadvantages of Pre-1990 Range Rovers?

I'm shopping for a Range Rover again, being (cross fingers) very close to
selling my Series IIA Land Rover.  Since I need to buy a RR for what I
receive for my LR, I'm limited to a 1987-1989 model.  I have heard from
several people that the 1990-1991 and later RR's are much better than the
1987-1989's.  Could folks on the list who own RR's comment on this?  I
understand the later models had the 3.9 engine, antilock brakes, and the
viscous coupling, but in terms of (1) reliability and (2) performance (in
that order of importance to me) what is the real difference? 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 07:44:08 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Shackles Vs hooks

Hi all,

Sorry for the cross posting, but I believe that there has been
discussion on the coiler list about this, then a mention on LRO today.

DO NOT EVER USE A HOOK ON A TOW STRAP OR ROPE FOR OFF ROAD RECOVERY.

A hook can become unhooked during the recovery, or worse partly
unhooked. Then on the next hard pull it comes off, releasing all the
kinetic energy stored in the rope, even in a dead rope.

The only time I have seen the result of this it lead to a broken rear
window. The passenger in the back saw the hook aiming for the drivers
head and instinctively or bravely tried to catch it. He broke 2 fingers
which were left flapping in the breeze and there was still enough power
left to cut the drivers head and leave him a bit wobbly, and presumably
concussed.

Only use shackles and preferably on tow loops, as opposed to tow hooks.
It is quite hard for a shackle to come off a hoop, but very easy for a
hook to come off another hook.

I know you can tie up the opening of a hook or even get gated hooks,
but they are a bodge.  You are only treating the symptom, not the
cause of the danger.

Play safe, Steve

Steve Reddock, Xyratex       | Just as he thought he had
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450     | clinched the interview he was
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)           | visited by the ghost of Usenet
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com | Postings Past.

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