The Coil Sprung (Land-Rover) Owner List Daily Digest

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From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 10:50:02 -0400
Subject: Re: D90  doortops

In a message dated 96-04-20 01:54:22 EDT, you write:
>plastic door panel there is two holes. If ya feel/look inside you will see
>the two bolts which secure the tops.  I can't remember the size, but they
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>Remember, when you re-install do not over tighten.  If you do then the
>window won't slide very easily.

Exellent point this last one, I will try not going as tight with those bolts
and see if that makes my windows slide easier.  Also, does everyone notice
that if you LOCK your windows, then UNLOCK them, you have to open the FRONT
glass pane first, and then you can open the rear one?  It kinda looks like
you have to "set" the rubber gasket one way before you can slide the rear
pane forward.  Both my doortops are like that... yours?

FYI:  I remove my doortops with a 5/8" deep dish socket, the bolts have
washer-like bosses and so I don't have loose washers, not flat ones.  On
mine, the "loose" parts are the plastic sleeves that locate the doortops
studs within the door.  On each door, one of these 2.5" plastic sleeves fits
very tight and needs to  forcibly pushed out, and the other slips out very
easily after pulling off the top.  

I am gonna remove the door panels and make those holes much larger, you can't
see them and it would make removal/installation much easier if they were
bigger.  Maybe Robert's panels havent' been cut?  Robert, if you look under
the bulge at the top of the door panel, about 3 inches down from top of the
door, looking up from below the door panel, you should see the two holes that
give bolt access.  If not, yours weren't opened up, and they'll need to be.  

John D90
"waiting for a 3 "dry day" forcast... and off with the windows..."  
  (David R and Barnett prolly calling me a sissy right about now!)

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 10:50:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Wipers, the list, and doortops

In a message dated 96-04-20 02:02:20 EDT, you write:

>Does anyone know the model or part # of the wiper blades for the D90
>('95)? My driver side wiper's rubber is slowly ripping away from the
>metal blade, and it's getting hard(er) to see on these snowy (yes,
>it's still snows in MN in April - joy!!) and rainy days.

Robert, I went to NAPA and bought their snow blades.  I think they were 13"
blades, they snapped right on, no special anything.  The store had to order
the blades, they didn't stock 13" ones, but other than that fine, and
normally priced (for snow blades) at around $7 or 10 I think.  (each.)
John
Madison, with snow in April too!!
Ack!!

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 15:09:11 -0400
Subject: Airing down tires

>Also wanted to ask you about airing down tires;

>Rovers North told me that they do not air down because of increased 
>possibility of tire and rim damage. 

I have been told to avoid airing down tires with alloy wheels because it will
increase the chance of them breaking (not just bending like a steel wheel).
 When I took my T#y#ta in to Mexico I always left the alloys at home and ran
steel wheels (and had 2 spares).

This summer I was driving with my friend Dan in his J##p with lockers on a
hard-core trail (something I would never take my Range Rover on) near Lake
Tahoe.  Just as I was about to comment that I didn't think the Range Rover
would be able to make it this far, I saw a brand new Ford Explorer (it was
only five days old, and it still had the paper dealer plates)  The guy and
his girlfriend were standing beside it because it had a flat tire (and caved
in front spoiler and sheetmetal damage, it was his first time off road).  We
helped them get the spare out from under the back, but it had a huge hole in
the sidewall of it from a sharp rock.  We didn't see a hole in the tire on
the car so we jacked up the back end with the Hi-Lift and the bumper hook
 and took the back tire and wheel off.  Dan showed me a neat trick that he
said he learned from the J##pers.  He said that guys often loose a bead when
they air down their tires.  To get a bead to seat with the small amount of
air from an air locker compressor or another 12V compressor you need to press
it against the wheel.  To do this wrap a rope or tree saver around the tire
and then tighten it by spinning the handle of a Hi-Lift or a lug wrench
around and around to push the middle of the tire down and press the bead on
to the rim.  As the tire fills with air spin the handle backwards to keep
pressure on the side of the rim.  I hope this makes sense, it is one of those
"a picture is worth a thousand words" sort of things.

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 15:08:52 -0400
Subject: Roof Racks RePost

I only got the RRO digest twice in the last week, and after reading it today
it looks like others have had the same problem.

>I too am in need of a roof rack for my 90 RR.  the problem is I want the
>best of both worlds.  I want the capacity, flexibility, and durability of
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>I want the convenient method of carrying bicycles and kayaks that a Thule
>or Yakima rack provides.

I have been a Yakima owner for over 10 years, and I can't say enough about
the racks.  (last summer I had over 600lbs. of lumber on the Yakima's on the
roof of my BMW).  My friend with a Suburban has a great roof rack set up (I
an going to get the same thing soon) He has four Yakima crossbars with a big
"basket style" rack on top of it he bought it at The Sports Rack U.S.A. the
number in N. California is 415-591-9200 and 415-599-9011, the card also has a
 800-RACK-USA phone # I don't know how many locations they have.  The rack
looks almost exaxtly the same as the "safari racks" that are in the new
Atlantic British catalog (sport rack sold them for less than AB).  There are
many places to buy Yakima’s for less, but this is where he got the big
basket.  The basket has no real bottom but he puts in a piece of plywood.  It
is strong enough for us to walk around or sleep on it.  He keeps it on all
the time and just takes the wood out unless he has a load.  All the Yakima
accessories still work and he puts the bikes, skis, snowboards, sailboards
etc. inside the basket.

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 15:09:10 -0400
Subject: U.S. Spec Range Rover Changes RePost

I only got the RRO/CSO list twice in the last week, I think some people are
getting it more, but I am posting this again, because I think many RRO's will
like to read it.

The FAQ I wrote with year by year changes to the U.S. spec. Range Rover is
now on the Rover Web:

http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/RoverWeb/

The URL to go directly to the Range Rover FAQ is:

http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/OVLR/FAQ.4.RangeRover_ClassicUS.html

I want to thank Ben Smith for putting it on the web.

Please let me know if you find any errors or typos (I know there are a few
typos).

I am starting on a Range Rover buyers guide FAQ so if anyone has anything
that may help let me know.  

I also plan to eventually do a Range Rover owners guide FAQ. 

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 12:47:13 -0700
From: Christopher Boese <cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us>
Subject: Re: 95 Disco crankshaft timing gear recall: more

John B. Friedman wrote:

> replacement was completed. Apparently most Disco owners should not
> worry as the dealer saids only a very few cars(5? 10?) most of which
> went to this dealer in Indianapolis, were affected.

My dealer in California checked and found that mine needs the new gear. They say 
it's an overnight job, and includes a new front crankshaft seal, though this 
might be a separate recall. More later.

-- 
Christopher Boese
County of San Bernardino, California
Information Services, Information Systems Security Office
'95 beluga black Discovery V8i

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 15:21:19 -0800
From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: Re: D90  doortops

At 10:50 AM 4/20/96 -0400, PurnellJE@aol.com wrote:

>>Remember, when you re-install do not over tighten.  If you do then the
>>window won't slide very easily.

Over tightening also causes "external" body damage.:(  I use a 15mm deep
socket without any problems.   Think the '95+ D90's come with an official,
LR approved socket and ratchet.

-Rick

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Apr 96 20:28:45 -0400
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re: Wipers, the list, and doortops

Robert,
>Thirdly, since it is getting warm out, I'm wondering how to take off
the door tops. It doesn't explain how in the owner's manual I
received, and the dealer never told me. I got a little ratchet set in
my cubby when I bought it (included a the ratchet and a 15mm socket, I
think). I've tried to find someplace to use it, but the only thing
that looks like a place to disconnect the doortops are the four
silver screws in the window "rail" (where the windows slide back &
forth) that appear to go down into the door. However, these seem
rather small and I would be kind of suprised if these were the only
things holding the door tops on.

Your door tops are held to the doors by two nuts that are accessible via 
the two holes under the window on the plastic door trim. Fully remove these 
nuts and lift the windows off. There are also two plastic sleeves that are 
over the bolts. If the window doesn't come off easily be patient. Sometimes 
you have to pry at the rubber seal a little bit to get them started.

Cheers,
Top was OFF today!:>))
Barnett
-------------
Original Text
From: Robert Kolander <kolanrj@gw.startribune.com>, on 4/19/96 1:54 PM:
First question:

Does anyone know the model or part # of the wiper blades for the D90
('95)? My driver side wiper's rubber is slowly ripping away from the
metal blade, and it's getting hard(er) to see on these snowy (yes,
it's still snows in MN in April - joy!!) and rainy days.

Second,
I don't seem to be getting posts regularly like I used to. I'm not
sure if something happened, or if traffic has just come to an almost
abrupt halt (I get between 3-6 list emails a day lately, & i'm pretty
sure there's more traffic than that).

Thirdly, since it is getting warm out, I'm wondering how to take off
the door tops. It doesn't explain how in the owner's manual I
received, and the dealer never told me. I got a little rachet set in
my cubby when I bought it (included a the rachet and a 15mm socket, I
think). I've tried to find someplace to use it, but the only thing
that looks like a place to disconnect the doortops are the four
silver screws in the window "rail" (where the windows slide back &
forth) that appear to go down into the door. However, these seem
rather small and I would be kind of suprised if these were the only
things holding the door tops on.

Oh yeah, passed a red D90 coming the otherway on the highway waving
like a madman, flicking my lights,  and not even a glance in my
direction. 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Apr 96 20:55:59 -0400
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: Re: D90  doortops

John,
>"waiting for a 3 "dry day" forcast... and off with the windows..."  
  (David R and Barnett prolly calling me a sissy right about now!)

SIIIISSSSSYYYYYYYPPPPPAAAANNNNNTTTTTTSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Saturday Top off and all was great!
Cheers,
Barnett
Aaaaahhhhhh...... to be topless again!
Childress
-------------
Original Text
From: PurnellJE@aol.com, on 4/20/96 10:50 AM:
In a message dated 96-04-20 01:54:22 EDT, you write:
>STOP! Don't pull the track screws.  On the under side of the window on the
>plastic door panel there is two holes. If ya feel/look inside you will see
>the two bolts which secure the tops.  I can't remember the size, but they
>are significantly larger than 15mm.  You will need a 6" extension to get 
to
>the nuts.  Be careful, there is washers that will drop between the door
>panel and the door, so be ready to catch um (I had to pull the door panel 
to
>recover one).
>Remember, when you re-install do not over tighten.  If you do then the
>window won't slide very easily.
>are significantly larger than 15mm.  You will need a 6" extension to get 

Exellent point this last one, I will try not going as tight with those 
bolts
and see if that makes my windows slide easier.  Also, does everyone notice
that if you LOCK your windows, then UNLOCK them, you have to open the FRONT
glass pane first, and then you can open the rear one?  It kinda looks like
you have to "set" the rubber gasket one way before you can slide the rear
pane forward.  Both my doortops are like that... yours?

FYI:  I remove my doortops with a 5/8" deep dish socket, the bolts have
washer-like bosses and so I don't have loose washers, not flat ones.  On
mine, the "loose" parts are the plastic sleeves that locate the doortops
studs within the door.  On each door, one of these 2.5" plastic sleeves 
fits
very tight and needs to  forcibly pushed out, and the other slips out very
easily after pulling off the top.  

I am gonna remove the door panels and make those holes much larger, you 
can't
see them and it would make removal/installation much easier if they were
bigger.  Maybe Robert's panels havent' been cut?  Robert, if you look under
the bulge at the top of the door panel, about 3 inches down from top of the
door, looking up from below the door panel, you should see the two holes 
that
give bolt access.  If not, yours weren't opened up, and they'll need to be. 
 

John D90
"waiting for a 3 "dry day" forcast... and off with the windows..."  
  (David R and Barnett prolly calling me a sissy right about now!)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 22:11:37 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: D90  doortops

You wrote: 
>Also, does everyone notice
>that if you LOCK your windows, then UNLOCK them, you have to open the FRONT
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>you have to "set" the rubber gasket one way before you can slide the rear
>pane forward.  Both my doortops are like that... yours?
I never tried that. What I do is pull back slightly on the rear slider.  It 
then slides forward.

Cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

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