The Coil Sprung (Land-Rover) Owner List Daily Digest

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From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 22 Apr 96 07:13:38 MST
Subject: Securing winches.

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486

David asks about securing winches from theft. Here are some ideas that
I've collected:

  1. Using left handed threads. Most thieves wouldn't try turning the
opposite way.

  2. Using "allen head" screws. Most thieves won't have a LARGE set of
allen wrenches. Additionally, you could fill in the allen opening with
silicone. "can" be removed if ever needed, but very time consuming for a
thief.

  3. Using a "wheel lock" like what you would use to protect your wheel.
Key would be needed to remove it.

  4. Rounding off the bolt head. This would require the bolt to be cut
or ground off, even by yourself.

  5. Drill the nut & bolt and thread safety wire through. Time consuming
for a thief.

  6. If you have a welder, you could weld a cover over the bolt heads.
Would need to be cut off to remove the winch.

  7. Cover the bolt heads and nuts with "gobs" of silicone. This would
have to be cut away in order to gain access to the bolts. Time
consuming.

Hope this helps... Maybe good to add to a FAQ file?

Dave (winchless in Phoenix) Brown
 #=====#         #========#            _________
 |___|__\___     |___|__|__\___       //__/__|__\___
 | _ |   |_ |}   | _ |  |   |_ |}     \__/-\_|__/-\_|}
 "(_)""""(_)"    "(_)"""""""(_)"         (_)    (_)

 1971 "88" IIa   1970 "109" IIa        '87 Range Rover
 LIC: LION B8    Historic plates        rear Lock-Right  Bilstein shocks
                                        Crane cam        Optima battery
                                        OME HD springs   SSB CB radio
 Phoenix Arizona USA (602) 820-8052     Hella lights (6)
 Have: tools, knowledge, lodging, etc...  Pager: (602) 275-2508 #6486

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}  to what lies within us."

"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 22 Apr 96 07:21:08 MST
Subject: Lock-rite

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
I think it's 1-800-lockers

Additionally, they have an e-mail address: powertrax@aol.com

I have one in the rear of my RR. Makes an incredible difference in off
road performance. It DOES have some handling quirks while turning tight
turns in the city. I love it, but will probably opt to replace it with a
new locker that they're coming out with probably within the next year.
It's a locker that you can turn on and off, similarly to the ARB, only
using electro magnets, instead of air pressure.

Dave...
 #=====#         #========#            _________
 |___|__\___     |___|__|__\___       //__/__|__\___
 | _ |   |_ |}   | _ |  |   |_ |}     \__/-\_|__/-\_|}
 "(_)""""(_)"    "(_)"""""""(_)"         (_)    (_)

 1971 "88" IIa   1970 "109" IIa        '87 Range Rover
 LIC: LION B8    Historic plates        rear Lock-Right  Bilstein shocks
                                        Crane cam        Optima battery
                                        OME HD springs   SSB CB radio
 Phoenix Arizona USA (602) 820-8052     Hella lights (6)
 Have: tools, knowledge, lodging, etc...  Pager: (602) 275-2508 #6486

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___    before us are tiny matters compared
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}  to what lies within us."
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson
=========================================================================
From: DSonneborn@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 16:57:16 -0400
Subject: Lock-rite

Could someone please post the name and phone number
 of the company that makes the Lock-rite diff unit?

 Thanks
 Dean

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 10:30:54 -0500 (CDT)
From: "David C. McCormack" <dmccorma@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Warranty, Waving. etc

At 08:56 AM 4/22/96 EDT, Jim Roth wrote:
>Jim
>Cheers from Beautiful Downtown White Rock, Northern New Messico
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>'94 Disco (white, elk bars w/large driving lights, sometimes a safari rack w/4
>lights; dazed & confused driver)

Jim,

        What are "elk bars?"
David C. McCormack
95 White Discovery, Wisconsin, "MackX4"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 10:45:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: "David C. McCormack" <dmccorma@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Not so hidden winch

At 06:40 AM 4/22/96 -0700, John wrote:

>Dave,
>What kind of set up did you get?  Is this the LRNA option?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>'95 Discovery, winchless
>San Francisco, California

John,

        I had a welder make the mount from 8" steel structural channel with
1/4" steel plate sides.  It cost me, including drilling holes, $65.00. I'd
be happy to fax you my plan - just remember, it has not been blessed by
LRNA, LR or even an engineer.  However, there is more steel in it than
factory winch mounts.  Also, I believe Mark Ritter, who is an engineer, came
up with the basic materials (my apology Mark if I am misrepresenting!:^)
I'd be happy to fax you a plan - just let me know thy fax.   
David C. McCormack
95 White Discovery, Wisconsin, "MackX4"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 11:41:29 -0400
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re: Not so hidden winch

Dave,

You are so right. I went with the Superwinch Husky 8 winch and bumper for 
my D90 for these reasons; Ease of operation and excellent view of the 
entire drum. You have to be careful when spooling in your winch cable. Do 
not let it go back onto the drum loose or uneven. Under load you can damage 
the cable. 

As far as theft protection you can use specialty bolts that are locking via 
a key similar to wheel rim locking nuts. 
Cheers,
Barnett
-------------
Original Text
From: "David C. McCormack" <dmccorma@execpc.com>, on 4/22/96 6:12 AM:
        There have been a few post recently regarding hidden winch mounts.
After attaching my winch, I was a bit dismayed when it appeared to me that
it could have been an inch higher as there was more room between the winch
and the bottom of the radiator assembly.  Similarly, it seemed to me that 
it
could have been an inch or so further aft.  These two inches are
contributing to some loss in front angle of attack (although the assembly 
is
still a couple inches higher than the factory air dam which I removed).  
The
net result is that I can see about two inches of the spool peeking out from
between the bumper and the base of the mount.  This, of course, contradicts
the notion of the "hidden" or "discreet" winch mount.

        Well, no more dismay.  On Sat. I stretched the cable and discovered
that actually being able to see the spool is muy importante.  I was
surprised at how easily the cable can pile up or spread out leaving gaps on
the spool.  I found out that getting the cable to "behave" takes a bit of
work.  Frankly, if the winch was out of sight I think it would be a big
problem.  An added bonus of the forward placement of the wich is that the
base of the mount (which is flush with the base of the roller fairlead,
provides a nice jacking point for the hi-lift.  I 'd like to claim that it
was foresight, but it was dumb luck.     

        Because my winch is visible, and the truck will be parked for long
intervals at deserted boat ramps and public hunting grounds, visted
occasionally by guys in j**ps with lots of tools, I'm trying to think of a
way to secure the mount.  Even if the bolts attaching the winch were
loosened, the winch could not come off because there isn't room to squeeze
it off the mount.  Therefore, the bolts of concern are really those
attaching the mount to the chassis - the four bumper assembly bolts.  Any 
ideas?

No longer winchless in Wisconsin,  hmmmmm, I wonder what accessory is next
and if my marriage will survive it?

 
David C. McCormack
95 White Discovery, Wisconsin, "MackX4"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 10:00:02 -0600 (MDT)
From: "Douglas C. Marbourg" <marbourg@lanl.gov>
Subject: Re: Bill Burkes 4 wheeling America

At 10:06 PM 4/21/96 EDT, you wrote:
>Do you have the Phone Number for this business? I am interested in products
that
>he might sell for the Disco.
>							Mark Ritter

Sure do! (303)778-9144.  He's also is planning a "driver education" course
in Moab the first week in June.  I've heard great things,  anyone else?

Doug "didn't take the hard top off yet" Marbourg, '94 NAS D90 #1123
Santa Fe, New Mexico

marbourg@lanl.gov

------------------------------

From: lenagham@inetmail.bachman.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 12:08:16 EST
Subject: Re: Temperature sensors.

     Second message I wanted to repost.
     
     Mike

______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: Re: Temperature sensors.
Author:  Michael Lenaghan at BIS_Aqua
Date:    4/19/96 9:38 AM

     Hugh,
     
     I have some more information for you regarding coolant sensors.
     
     If your engine has a cold start injector and A/C, then it probably has 
     4 coolant sensors:
     
     1. The coolant sensor for the ECU. This isensor has a semi-conductor 
     resistor and is also known as a thermistor. Sometimes called a NTC 
     (Negative Temperature Coefficient) - the sensor's resistance goes down 
     as the temp moves up. The correct functioning of this sensor is 
     critical to the smooth running of the engine, especially during warm 
     up - the ECU uses resistance measurements to guage the length of time 
     the injectors are open.
     
     The thermistor has the following temp/resistance characteristics:
     
        Degrees C               Ohms
          -10                   9100 - 9300
           0                    5700 - 5900
           20                   2400 - 2600
           40                   1100 - 1300
           60                   500 - 700
           80                   300 - 400
          100                   150 - 200
     
     2. A THERMOTIME switch which controls the firing of the cold start 
     injector (the US spec RR does not have a cold start injector - 
     therefore no thermotime switch). It contains both a switch and a 
     heater. When the ignition switch is in the start (cranking) position, 
     power is supplied to the cold start injector and to the heater of the 
     thermotime switch. If the engine is warm the switch will be open so no 
     ground (earth) is made in the Cold start injector circuit so it 
     doesn't fire. If the engine is cold the switch is closed so a complete 
     circuit is made and the injector fires - as the engine is being 
     cranked power to the heater within the switch causes it to heat up 
     opening the internal switch and thus turning off the injector. This 
     prevents too much fuel being pumped into the engine and flooding it if 
     it doesn't start. The heater will cause the switch to open in less 
     than 10 seconds even in very cold conditions. Power is supplied to the 
     cold start injector only when cranking, so unless the injector is 
     leaking it is unlikely to be causing any cold running problems as you 
     described - it would run rich and you would probably have hot start 
     problems if the injector leaked.
     
     I don't know where the thermo-time switch is located relative to the 
     coolant temp thermistor - but they are close together and you should be 
     able to trace the wiring from the injector to the thermotime switch to 
     figure out which one is which.
     
     3. The third sensor is the sensor for the coolant temp gauge.
     
     4. The fourth sensor is the switch for the electric fans - if fitted 
     on A/C equipped vehicles.
     
     My money is still on the thermistor (#1) above.
     
     Sorry for the long winded response.
     
     Regards
     Mike Lenaghan
     
> Subject: Temperature sensors.
> Author:  hdavies@kzin.mon.rnb.com (Hugh J.E. Davies) at inetmail 
     
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 36 lines)]
> This is *NOT* an official publication of RNB. 
> Personal email to huge@axalotl.demon.co.uk, please.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 10:12:42 -0600 (MDT)
From: "Douglas C. Marbourg" <marbourg@lanl.gov>
Subject: RE: Slow List Traffic

>Can anyone tell me how to convert my Range Rover to positive ground?
>        - Scott

Yea, just reverse the battery cables!

Doug "didn't take the hard top off yet" Marbourg, '94 NAS D90 #1123
Santa Fe, New Mexico

marbourg@lanl.gov

------------------------------

From: lenagham@inetmail.bachman.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 12:07:26 EST
Subject: Technical Service Bulletins ETC

     I have been experiencing problems with my e-mail at work since last 
     Tuesday. I posted a few messages but have not seen them on the rro 
     list. I thought I would repost a couple of them that might be of some 
     interest. If you've seen them before I apologise for wasting the 
     bandwidth.
     
     Regards
     Mike Lenaghan
     

______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: Technical Service Bulletins ETC
Author:  lenagham@inetmail.bachman.com at inetmail
Date:    4/16/96 5:54 PM

     I was browsing the Internet this afternoon and came across the 
     following US government site:
     
     ftp://ftp.fedworld.gov/pub/auto/auto.htm
     
     All of the car manufacturers are required to keep the government 
     updated on emissions related info and service bulletins related to 
     emissions. 
     
     Scroll down to ROVER.ZIP and download the file The file retrieved 
     needs to be unzipped and it expands to about 20 individual files. Most 
     of them are related to 94 and 95 models and there are some interesting 
     publications (although pricey).
     
     There are references to some electrical troubleshooting manuals that 
     look as though they go back as far as 1987 for the RR. The following 
     are 3 examples  of the expanded(unzipped) files.
     
     If any body has the following manuals let me know if they are worth 
     ordering. I assume they are available to the public, if not your 
     friendly neighbourhood mechanic should be able to get them for you!
     
     Regards
     Mike Lenaghan
     87 RR(2)
     
     Description: Engine Management Systems
     
     Manufacturer: Rover
     
     Make: Land Rover
     
     Model: Discovery, Defender, Range Rover Classic, Range Rover 4.0 SE
     
     Year: 1987 - 1995
     
     Part Number: N/A
     
     Price: $50.00
     
     Ordering Information: 
     
     Send certified check to:   Land Rover North America
                                4390 Parliament Place
                                Lanham,  MD  20706
                                Attn: Fedworld Coordinator
     
     All orders shipped within 24 hours and will be sent first class 
     US Mail.
     
     Publication Type: Service Training Course Book
     
     Description: Electrical Troubleshooting
     
     Manufacturer: Rover
     
     Make: Land Rover
     
     Model: Discovery, Defender, Range Rover Classic, Range Rover 4.0 SE
     
     Year: 1987 - 1995
     
     Part Number: N/A
     
     Price: $50.00
     
     Ordering Information: 
     
     Send certified check to:   Land Rover North America
                                4390 Parliament Place
                                Lanham,  MD  20706
                                Attn:  EPA/Fedworld Coordinator
     
     All orders shipped within 24 hours and will be sent first class US 
     Mail.
     
     Publication Type: Service Training Course Book
     
     Description: Electrical Troubleshooting II
     
     Manufacturer: Rover
     
     Make: Land Rover
     
     Model: Discovery, Defender, Range Rover Classic, Range Rover 4.0/4.6
     
     Year: 1987 - 1996
     
     Part Number: N/A
     
     Price: $100.00
     
     Ordering Information: 
     
     Send certified check to:   Land Rover North America
                                4390 Parliament Place
                                Lanham,  MD  20706
                                Attn: Fedworld Coordinator
     
     All orders shipped within 24 hours and will be sent first class 
     US Mail.
     
     Publication Type: Service Training Course Book
     

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 09:13:37 -0700
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: 90 RR purchase - got one (roof rack)

My posts to rro keep getting bounced, and this message hasn't shown up in 
the digest since I originally posted it, so I guess I'll keep trying until 
it does...

I've never seen or heard of anyone else who does this, but I've been very 
happy with my Thule "Weekender," a box that fits on the Thule rack.  Mine's 
been on top of the Range Rover for about two years now, and I use it to keep 
spare parts and fluids, maps, blankets, tools, and all the other stuff you'd 
like to keep in the Rangey but don't want to have taking up space in the 
cargo area.  The box locks, as does the rack.

On offroad trips, I also keep a low-profile plastic 5-gallon container of 
gas up there, no need to worry about fumes or spillage, and no need to worry 
about rear/front end collision.

I have both Thule and Yakima, and I prefer Thule.  A square pipe makes more 
sense for holding things horizontally, Thule's device that attaches the 
pylons to the rain gutter is (IMO) better and easier to use, Thule's means 
of attaching the pipe to the pylon is way better (no wrench required), and 
Thule's locks work better.  I switched to Thule after one of my locked 
Yakima racks was stolen.

-Matt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 13:35:41 -0400
From: RICHARD_COLEMAN@fmso.navy.mil (RICHARD COLEMAN)
Subject: FOR SALE 90 RR

         This afternoon I'll be trading in 'the money pit'
         on a 92 BMW 735i. If anyone is interested in a 90
         Range Rover with a plethera of NEW PARTS. Let me
         know and I'll put you in touch with the dealer who
         has it. I won't be able to answer your email until
         I return to work on Mon. 22 Apr. If you are REALLY
         interested call me at 717-766-5298.

                             Cheers,
                             Rick
                             (soon to be Roverless)

------------------------------

From: Guydell@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 13:24:45 -0400
Subject: Rotor cap replacement from HELL

I changed the cap and rotor on my distributor and somehow screwed-up my
timing by locking it in full advance!  Has anyone seen this on a Lucas RR
distributor?  The rotor arm has some inherent up-and-down play in it and it
became stuck in the UP position when changing the rotor such that the cap
could not be clipped back on.  No amount of twisting and pulling would drop
the rotor arm back into position.  So, I kicked over the engine a few times
with the cap off and this dropped the arm back into position. The problem is
that the timing was locked in full advanced at about plus 20 degrees TDC.  I
repeated the engine rotation procedure several times with the cap and rotor
off until the timing was again back to normal at plus 6 degrees TDC.
 Unfortunately, the advance seems to be all screwed up now when driving, and
the engine gives severe hesitation especially during acceleration onto the
highway.  Does anyone know how to troubleshoot the advance mechanism in a
Lucas distributor?

Guy della-Cioppa
90 RR, Beluga black
Guy dell@aol.com

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@biddeford.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 14:07:18 -0500
Subject: RE: Slow List Traffic

On 22 Apr 96 at 10:12, Douglas C. Marbourg wrote:

> Date:          Mon, 22 Apr 1996 10:12:42 -0600 (MDT)
> To:            RRO@playground.sun.com
> From:          "Douglas C. Marbourg" <marbourg@lanl.gov>
> Subject:       RE: REALLY  Slow List Traffic

> >Can anyone tell me how to convert my Range Rover to positive ground?
> >        - Scott
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> >        - Scott
> Yea, just reverse the battery cables!

Do you mean all it takes to do this is to swap them end for end?  Wow, 
easier on Coilers than Series' by far.  I'll never understand computers.

Ron Franklin

Positively grounded by inclination and wondering if reversing my own polarity 
would bring me up to date mentally at the risk of further corrosion of the 
coachwork.

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 11:29:29 PDT
From: dtownsen@steinway.edaca.ingr.com (Dave Townsend)
Subject: Oil Guage

Hi,

Can anyone help me out on the problem I have with 
my oil light (idiot light) for my 91 Range Rover ?

The oil light now intermittently turns on and off,
now mostly off.

There is oil in the engine, I had the oil changed 
in the last week.  The oil seems to be circulating,
ie, no nasty sounds of lifters seizing up.  I would
not expect the oil pump to need replacing after 65k miles. 

My theory is that the oil sensor is flaky, I would 
put a new one in if this was likely to be the cause.

Any ideas out there ?

dave 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 14:19:59 -0500
From: Shaun Carrigan <shaunc@infi.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Guage

> Can anyone help me out on the problem I have with
> my oil light (idiot light) for my 91 Range Rover ?
> The oil light now intermittently turns on and off,
> now mostly off.

The oil light in '88 Range Rover has done the same thing for about a 
year now. Last time I complained about, the dealer said it was an ECU 
problem and the only way to fix was to replace the ECU. This sounded 
fishy to me. I am *pretty* sure it's the senders (there are two I'm 
aware of) that are at fault but which one I'm not sure. Need to fix it 
but have gotten so I ignore the warning light. This is admittedly not a 
good thing.

I wonder if there's any other explanation or if the dealer story might 
in fact be correct. 

Shaun Carrigan

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 15:47:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Not so hidden winch

In a message dated 96-04-22 08:20:40 EDT, you write:

>Therefore, the bolts of concern are really those
>attaching the mount to the chassis - the four bumper assembly bolts.  Any
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>and if my marriage will survive it?
>David C. McCormack

Well, it used to be that moving to Southern California was a sure way to put
a good marriage into trouble, and now it turns out buying a Land Rover will
do it too!

DAve, how about having the nuts tack-welded?  I assume the winch is
permanent?  A problem might be if Berndt had to do some warranty work and had
to remove the winch to get to whatever it was, they'd be upset.  

John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 13:36:43 -0600 (MDT)
From: Tebbin Salvesen <tsalves@slcpl.slcpl.lib.ut.us>
Subject: RE: Slow List Traffic

On Mon, 22 Apr 1996, Ron Franklin wrote:

.backwards run brain your make will it polarity reversing on careful be!!!

> On 22 Apr 96 at 10:12, Douglas C. Marbourg wrote:
> > Date:          Mon, 22 Apr 1996 10:12:42 -0600 (MDT)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)]
> coachwork.
> Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 16:33:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Waterproofing/Painting the RR

>Has anyone found a source for inexpensive RR door seals, a little while
>ago, AB want about $110/each for the fronts...mine are cracked and not
>helping the water situation!

I have fixed the cracks and tears in the rubber on the doors and the tailgate
with 
Bondo brand black rubber plastic.  It is sold at most auto parts stores. 

>How about suggestions for possible color changes to my '87 Caspian Blue RR. 
>I could stick with stock blue color, or go for something a little more
daring! 

I would stick with the Caspian Blue Metallic, you will never be able to paint
all the blue without "breaking the bank"  When you get chips blue under blue
is hard to notice, the blue will stand out on the Camel Trophy orange.

>Let me hear your suggestions

To save money and get a better paint job take as much off the vehicle as you
can, bumpers, mud flaps, door rub strips etc.  Make sure you let the paint
shop know that you want them to tape everything off.  Older Range Rovers look
bad with overspray on the black door jambs and in the wheel wells.  I am
amazed how many body shops don't tape under the car and paint the exhaust,
fuel tank etc.

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 16:33:24 -0400
Subject: Anti-Theft Tips

>Because my winch is visible, and the truck will be parked for long
>intervals at deserted boat ramps and public hunting grounds, visited
>occasionally by guys in j**ps with lots of tools, I'm trying to think of a
>way to secure the mount. 

Funny how we assume all J**p owners are thieves, when I had my CJ-7 I was
worried about someone walking off with my spare tire (with a brand new
Goodyear Wrangler on it) so I got a locking lug nut to hold it on the swing
away spare tire holder.  My roommate pointed out that someone could still
remove the spare and the holder by taking the two bolts off the hinges.  I
bought two stainless steel torxs bolts and put lock-tite on the stainless
steel nylock nuts.

When I was living in a condo complex in San Diego the board of directors got
mad when I was parking/storing my beater T*y*ta 4x4 and my race car project
323i in the guest spaces.  When I moved them to the street I got two big
white pieces of cardboard and wrote "Vehicle is equipped with silent alarm
and Owner is a NRA slow fire pistol competitor"  I put them on the dash
inside the vehicles in plain view.  To add credibility I taped two targets
from the range (with 10 rounds in a 2" group) and a half dozen 9mm shells to
them.  Next time you are hunting try taping a note on the winch that says
"Owner is keeping an eye on this winch with the Leupold VARI-X II 6-18x40mm
scope on his .308"  I bet the winch will be there when you get back.

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 17:06:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: "David C. McCormack" <dmccorma@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Not so hidden winch

At 03:47 PM 4/22/96 -0400, John Purnell wrote:
>DAve, how about having the nuts tack-welded?  I assume the winch is
>permanent?  A problem might be if Berndt had to do some warranty work and had
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>to remove the winch to get to whatever it was, they'd be upset.  
>John

John,

        That is the problem exactly.  How can I foil theives without foiling
myself?  The welder is conveniently located to me, but . . . With regard to
locking bolts, I don't know where to get them or if they are available in
sizes other than lug nut (besides, my budget is shot).  I'm toying with the
idea of welding up some sort of shackle that would encapsulate the bolts and
could be padlocked.  I'll have to crawl under to get some more ideas.

David C. McCormack
95 White Discovery, Wisconsin, "MackX4"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 15:32:42 -0600 (MDT)
From: "Douglas C. Marbourg" <marbourg@lanl.gov>
Subject: Tricked 90: The Second Trip

Well once again I got a ride in the D90 I posted about last month.  This
time I got to drive.  Again WOW!  The 4:70's made the vehicle unstoppable.
I tried some mild rock crawling/ledge climbing and the vehicle, just above
idle, walked right up 1.5' ledges without a stutter.  I've got a set on
order right now!  I'll keep the 3:54's, just in case, but for now I'm sold.
Also, the 33" didn't even hint of rubbing.  He did however install the
stiffest OME springs he could get which could explain the lack of rubbing (I
didn't get out of the vehicle to check wheel travel, but it "feels" ok).

The speedo was completely out of whack however.  The only "fix" I've heard
of is to stick numbers on the speedo glass!  I'll keep searching...

Another interesting note about the vehicle is that the rep had the T-case
reworked.  I'm not clear on all the details, but it involved shimming for
backlash reduction.  Even in 1st gear low range, there was negligible
backlash in the T-case (something that's bothered me since I got the
vehicle).  It didn't drop into low range as easy as my vehicle, (driver
error?) but hey, almost zero clunk when on/off the throttle is worth it in
my book, especially with 4:70's.

Doug Marbourg, '94 NAS D90 #1123
Santa Fe, New Mexico

marbourg@lanl.gov

------------------------------

From: 73363.427@CompuServe.COM
Date: 22 Apr 96 18:02:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Guage

>> The oil light in '88 Range Rover has done the same thing for about a 
year now. Last time I complained about, the dealer said it was an ECU 
problem and the only way to fix was to replace the ECU. This sounded 
fishy to me. I am *pretty* sure it's the senders (there are two I'm 
aware of) that are at fault but which one I'm not sure. Need to fix it 
but have gotten so I ignore the warning light. This is admittedly not a 
good thing.<<

The dealer gave me the same story on my RR. The light flashes for 30 sec on
startup to indicate a low oil level, even though the level is OK. They said I
needed a new control module $420!!! Well I can check my own oil thank you very
much. A while later I found this control unit in a junk yard for $20, installed
it and the light still doesn't work. I don't know if it was bad also, or the
sender in the oil pan was bad. I haven't gotten around to checking it (The
series III takes priority), but I would bet money on the sender.

>>I wonder if there's any other explanation or if the dealer story might 
in fact be correct. <<

I haven't found this to be the case very often <g>

  
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]
     EEEI           EEEI

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 22-Apr-1996

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 22 Apr 96 16:10:23 MST
Subject: Re: Waterproofing/Painting the RR

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
You might try a upholstery supply store for the weatherstripping. It
seems to me that I've seen a similar type at one here in Phoenix. Not
positive though. They'd be MUCH cheaper than original, and who knows...
it just might actually seal!   ;)

I agree with Kevin's comments about masking off what ever you don't want
painted. EVEN THE OBVIOUS!!! After all, what may SEEM to be obvious to
you or I is DEFINITELY NOT to many others!

Dave...

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___    before us are tiny matters compared
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}  to what lies within us."
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 17:15:32 -0700
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: BPI

Anyone heard of British Parts International (BPI)?  They have a largeish ad 
in the April Hemmings.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 00:00:50 -0500
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Range Rover badging

I am planning to add the green oval Land Rover to the rear of our Range
Rover. It is a Land Rover Range Rover after all.

The later, 91-92 on after, Range Rovers have a badge there.  Can any one
with one e-mail me with the proper location on the liftgate?  I would like
to be somewhat close to the factory location.

Thanks.

Jeff Kessler
1988 (LR) Range Rover
Newport NH USA   603-863-7883
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 00:00:52 -0500
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Range Rover wood trim

The wood trim on our RR looks like it was last treated/stained/sealed at the
factory.

What can other RR owners recommend?  Since the wood trim is there I should
at least take care of it.

Thanks.

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover (soon to be waxed again too)
Newport NH USA   603-863-7883

------------------------------

From: David King <D.King@unsw.edu.au>
Subject: multiples of incoming mail 
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 16:36:30 +-1000

I have been on hols and returned to find my MS Exchange mailbox choked =
with >20 entries of each of the one mailing(s) to the list (5000 =
Items!!).
Please advise, do I need to unsubscribe or what.

David King
'96 Disco Montpellier

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 10:32:17 +0100 (BST)
From: "T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Anti-theft tips

> Next time you are hunting try taping a note on the winch that says
>"Owner is keeping an eye on this winch with the Leupold VARI-X II 6-18x40mm
>scope on his .308"  I bet the winch will be there when you get back.

.....unless you get back to your vehicle one day, and someone has added the
words ' So am I....' to your note.

 Tom
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Thomas D.I. Stevenson                          gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
SNL Mussel Fouling Project
University Marine Biological Station,      Tel 01475 530581
Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland.       Fax 01475 530601
-----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: 23 Apr 96 09:11:11 EDT
From: Mark Ritter <70472.1130@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Old Man Emu suspension for Disco

Just got my OME kit form Rovers North. I'll probobly install it tomorrow and
I'll post to the group my experieces. I am going to use some directions from an
older issue of 4-wheel drive mag. where they installed one on a 90. With their
techniques you don't have to use spring compressors.

									Mark
Ritter
									94 Disco
w/
									Rear
Locker,
									Steel
wheels,
									Mud
tires,
									x9000
superwinch
									Hella
3000's
									and OME
suspension

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 29 lines 1348 [forwarded 98 whitespace 359]
 Output: lines 1106 [content 665  forwarded 62 (cut  36) whitespace 332]

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