The Coil Sprung (Land-Rover) Owner List Daily Digest

Send Submissions uk-lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 09:51:43 -0400
Subject: Difficult Soft Top Installation
From: "Andrew A. Dallas" <adallas@systemsoft.com>

This weekend I was lucky enough to get to drive a bit with my full soft 
top off. On Sunday I reinstalled the top as this wonderful Boston rain 
was predicted.

I waited until about dusk to install the top. It was nice and cool out. 
D90 soft tops shrink when they get cold. It took about 30 minutes of 
battle to get the top on. 

I have now been advised that one should leave the soft top in the sun for 
10 minutes before attempting installation to allow the top to warm up and 
stretch a bit. I'm going to take that advise.

I hope this saves some thumbs.
-AD

************************************************************************
 Andrew A. Dallas
 Full Spectrum Software, Inc.
 30 Whittemore Road
 Newton, MA 02158, USA

 (617) 965-7580, On Site Office: (508) 647-2948
 email: adallas@tiac.net, Web Page: http://www.tiac.net/users/adallas/
************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 96 7:27:25 -0400
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: Re: D90 hand throttle, 95 tail lights,rear bumper.

Hi all,

Russ. Turning the thumb wheel on the throttle cable is an option. But I 
admit that I don't always "raise the hood" when winching.

Over the weekend I did a little work on my 95 D90 in preparation for the NH 
safari mud run that has been canceled! Whine...moan...groan.
Anyhow...

1995 D90 tail lights; Just about everyone on the list knows by now that 
water getting into the rear tail lights, corroding everything, and possibly 
frying the harness has been a real pain for some of us 95 owners. This has 
never been a problem with the 94's with the square tail lights, [All 1994 
D90 owners laugh here! :>)].

Anyhow I took the lights apart this weekend. Even though I clean my truck 
thoroughly after every outing, the connectors, and between the lenses and 
the body were packed with dirt and mud. There was water in all but the 
backup light and I think the only reason that was dry is that it doesn't 
get sprayed as much as the other lights from the tires.

My solution. I thoroughly cleaned the connectors with a brush and cleaned 
off all the corrosion on the pins. Then I packed the connectors with 
lithium grease. I got all of the water out of the lens cover assemblies and 
drilled some small 1/8' holes in the bottoms so the water can get out. The 
water seems to be getting in thru the connectors and to a greater extent 
around the bulb socket? The rubber gasket is rather porous. Water that gets 
in has no way to drain out and over time enough water gets in until the 
level is up to the bulb. Mine were about 1/3 rd full. 

My fix doesn't prevent water from entering, but the connectors are 
protected from corrosion and the water will drain out. From time to time I 
will re-grease these as a regular maintenance item.

I will also check the new drain holes and clean them with a pipe cleaner if 
they become clogged.

The other thing I did was remove the rear bumper. I was getting tired of 
dragging the tail on everything as I departed some of the tougher areas on 
the trail. This was easy only a few bolts to remove. My departure angle is 
much better! I never tow anything anyhow. I will put a Dixon/Bates pin 
assembly on the rear frame member for a strong attachment point for a tow 
rope, etc. An added bonus was exposing two holes in the rear frame member 
that will accept the Jackall attachment. With the Superwinch HD bumper up 
front, this gives me a solid jacking point at each corner of the vehicle!

Cheers,
Barnett
No more "Lights out" or "scrapes on my butt"!
Childress 
-------------
Original Text
From: Russ Burns <burns@cisco.com>, on 4/26/96 3:52 PM:
I just adjust the thumbwheel in the throttle cable  (3.9L). Since
it is recommended to keep the hood up as protection from the cable
this is preety easy to do.

At 12:56 PM 4/26/96 -0400, barnett childress wrote:
>Hi all,
>Was on the phone today with Jim Mitchell at Rovers North. He told me about 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>and guiding the cable. Cost is $85 and he told me installation is easy and 
>takes about 45 minutes. Sounds like a good idea for someone like me who 
off 
>roads alone a lot. Pretty neat.
>Also told me that there working on a D90 cover that will fit over the 
>windshield and roll cage and attach to the regular top side channels. I 
>guess the idea being it would be easier on/off than the full top, and 

would 
>keep the rain out without having to reinstall your door tops.
>Cheers,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Cheers,
>Barnett
Russ Burns
cisco/Ford
313-317-0451

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 09:36:55 -0500
From: dcorc@mrs.mjc.state.mi.us (Dave Corcoran)
Subject: RR seat switches

>Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 12:46:34 -0500
>To:KKelly@6788aol.com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
>salvage pool. It had what I would call a light rollover. So I'm not
>rovering yet but hope to in a few weeks.
>---not rovering yet,Dave,90RR county

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 29 Apr 96 07:53:54 MST
Subject: Re: What is your favorite spark plug?

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
I must speak up here...

I tried them on my Honda Goldwing (6 cylinder touring bike) and they
made no difference what so ever. A waste of around $35.

They do have a $ back guarantee, but I never bothered to get a refund.

Dave (still seeking the "perfect flame") Brown

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___    before us are tiny matters compared
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}  to what lies within us."
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson
=========================================================================
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 13:37:31 -0600 (MDT)
X-Sender: u115011@pobox1663.lanl.gov
X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Pro Version 2.2 (16)
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
From: "Douglas C. Marbourg" <marbourg@lanl.gov>
Subject: Re: What is your favorite spark plug?

A
>Hmm...I won;t be of that much help , but I can try........Our Disco is
>still on factory plugs (4000miles), but one of our Volvos has been running
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>too, I am sure......
>Arnold Yoon

Has anyone had any luck with Split Fires?  Are the claims true?  My mechanic
doesn't think so, but...

Doug Marbourg, '94 NAS D90 #1123
"Hurt Feelings, and I don't wana' play anymore"

Santa Fe, New Mexico
(505)665-1729
marbourg@lanl.gov

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 96 11:02:29 EDT
From: rdl@NomuraNY.COM (Rob Legerio)
Subject: D90 hub leak

All,
	Looks like I've got a bad leak in my driver's side hub. Two weekends
ago while giving the 90 a spring cleaning I noticed alot of heavy oil on
the inside of the rim. This past weekend I pulled the front wheels to take
a peek. Everything behind the rim was covered in greasy oil including the
rotor. It looks like it's comming from behind the rotor whe the inner hub
bearing grease seal is. I removed the caliper and cleaned it all up. I also
took a peek inside the hub. Alot of oil ran out when I removed the outside
of the hub.  Is this normal? Is the oil from whatever kind of grease they
used to lube the hubs? I've never seen any wheel bearing grease break down
into alot of oil like this. I was literaly pouring out. I drained both swivel
pin housings into a marked container to see if the levels were the same. They
were close.  The hub is still spinning smoothly, but I doubt for long.

I learned two things, the brake pads on the front brakes can be changed
without removing the calipers. Thy just pull out the back. It's real nice.
The come out real easy and I was able to push the pistons back with my 
fingers to put them back.  To remove the caliper itself though, you have
to disconnect the brake line from it (at least on my 90, some are different)
which is kind of beat.

So, the big question is, should I fix it myself, or have the dealer do the work
under warranty. I realy don't like having them do anything other than changing
oil.  My 90s got 15.2K miles on it and has to go in for the 15K service (just
to keep the warranty, check everything myself when it comes back) anyway.

thoughts?
Rob

=============================================================================
  _________  |        Robert D. Leggiero                    rdl@NomuraNY.Com
 |     | \ \ |        Nomura Securities International       (212) 667-1958
#|_____|__\]\|____    Two World Financial Center, 20th Fl.
#|"___ |-   | ___ |   New York, N.Y.  10281-1198
[|/ - \|____|/ - \|]
  ( o ) ---- ( o )    1994 Defender 90 (AA Yellow, #1894)
=============================================================================
   

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 29 Apr 96 09:59:11 MST
Subject: D90 hub leak

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
Definitely have the dealer do the work under warrantee.

When I had my Discovery, they replaced the hub seal on one side because
it started to leak. They were really good about doing warranty work. I
think they must get paid from LR to do it, judging from their eagerness
to do work. (even replaced the rear main oil seal once. had to remove
the transmission to do it!) All at NO CHARGE! (No charge to me, anyway!)

Good luck...

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___    before us are tiny matters compared
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}  to what lies within us."
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson
=========================================================================
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 96 11:02:29 EDT
From: rdl@NomuraNY.COM (Rob Legerio)
Subject: D90 hub leak

All,
        Looks like I've got a bad leak in my driver's side hub. Two weekends
ago while giving the 90 a spring cleaning I noticed alot of heavy oil on
the inside of the rim. This past weekend I pulled the front wheels to take
a peek. Everything behind the rim was covered in greasy oil including the
rotor. It looks like it's comming from behind the rotor whe the inner hub
bearing grease seal is. I removed the caliper and cleaned it all up. I also
took a peek inside the hub. Alot of oil ran out when I removed the outside
of the hub.  Is this normal? Is the oil from whatever kind of grease they
used to lube the hubs? I've never seen any wheel bearing grease break down
into alot of oil like this. I was literaly pouring out. I drained both swivel
pin housings into a marked container to see if the levels were the same. They
were close.  The hub is still spinning smoothly, but I doubt for long.

I learned two things, the brake pads on the front brakes can be changed
without removing the calipers. Thy just pull out the back. It's real nice.
The come out real easy and I was able to push the pistons back with my
fingers to put them back.  To remove the caliper itself though, you have
to disconnect the brake line from it (at least on my 90, some are different)
which is kind of beat.

So, the big question is, should I fix it myself, or have the dealer do the work
under warranty. I realy don't like having them do anything other than changing
oil.  My 90s got 15.2K miles on it and has to go in for the 15K service (just
to keep the warranty, check everything myself when it comes back) anyway.

thoughts?
Rob

=============================================================================
  _________  |        Robert D. Leggiero                    rdl@NomuraNY.Com
 |     | \ \ |        Nomura Securities International       (212) 667-1958
#|_____|__\]\|____    Two World Financial Center, 20th Fl.
#|"___ |-   | ___ |   New York, N.Y.  10281-1198
[|/ - \|____|/ - \|]
  ( o ) ---- ( o )    1994 Defender 90 (AA Yellow, #1894)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 12:31:22 -0600 (MDT)
From: "Douglas C. Marbourg" <marbourg@lanl.gov>
Subject: Top Ten Accessories

Allen,  

I have a question about the LT230 oil splash disk that prevents premature
main shaft spline wear.  I have the LT77 gear box.  Where does it install?
Gear box or T-case? Both?  Has anyone on the list done the retrofit?

Doug Marbourg, '94 NAS D90 #1123
"No more hurt feelings"

Santa Fe, New Mexico
(505)665-1729
marbourg@lanl.gov

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 12:34:07 -0800
From: bronson@diamondmm.com (Scott Bronson)
Subject: Re: Range Rover Wood

Hi, Kevin.  How about 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive?  Or, clear silicone RTV.
Both have great stick to irregular surfaces, but should be able to be
peeled off with great difficulty if needed.  I find epoxy scary because
will cement itself in there for good, but may not stick to the wood so
well.

        - Scott

>I have been having a problem with the wood falling off the doors of my Range
>Rover.  I need to find a glue that will hold the plastic pegs that connect it
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>section of Home Depot.  Has any one used that stuff?  Do you think it will
>hold plastic to wood?
>Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 15:13:37 -0600
From: Robert Kolander <kolanrj@gw.startribune.com>
Subject:  Difficult Soft Top Installation -Reply

In regards to heating up the top, could you just keep it inside for a
while, (ie: if it's evening and no sun to bask in), maybe over a
vent, and then put it on? anyone tried this?

------------------------------

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: Latest Discovery Failure
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 14:14:23 -0700

Driving in to work, I noticed an odd red light on the dash. A
thermometer inside of a gear. As I parked, and began to panic (my
default reaction to the unknown).  I felt stupid not knowing what
imminent harm was about to befall my beloved Discovery. I also found it
especially odd that nothing smelled out of the ordinary, let alone,
overheated. I quickly thumbed through the Owner's Manual to find out
what the mysterious indicator meant especially and it turns out to be
the Transmission Over-Temp. light.

My first thought was "I'm glad it's under warranty". I checked the
trans-fluid dipstick and noticed no burning or hot smell consistent with
a smoking transmission and I also had the correct amount of fluid so at
this point, I'm puzzled.  The light was still on after I let the car
cool for an hour so I called the dealer who just about took the words
out of my mouth.

Me: "Hello, this is Bob Watson. I own a '95 Discovery and..."
them: "... the transmission over-heat light is on, right!?"
(well, almost that quick :-)
them: "The sensor for that is probably bad, just bring it in..."
    _____
   /|__|_\__(|                           Bob Watson
  |   |   |  \                 a-robw@microsoft.com
  |---|___|___\____      Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA 
  |  _|=  |=  |o_  }\                
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/        19,800 miles and counting

------------------------------

From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 14:28:11 -0700
Subject: broken looking glass question

Having no eyes in the back of my head, I have occasion to use the
windshield mirror on our Discovery. Unfortunately, I am now looking
at a blank spot where the mirror used to be: it fell off. I was
wondering if anybody had any suggestions for reattaching it besides
going to the dealer. The original adhesive is a sticky variety
(obviously not sticky enough). I just tried to readjust the
mirror!!

Is an epoxy appropriate, or should I go with something like RTV?

I saw the word LUCAS imprinted in the glue...

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 16:20:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Not so hidden winch

Can you leave the spoiler and license plate on to cover it up? On mine 
you can.

Cheers

John

On Mon, 22 Apr 1996, T.Stevenson wrote:

> At 06:12 22/04/96 -0500, you wrote:
> >        Because my winch is visible, and the truck will be parked for long
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)]
> University Marine Biological Station,      Tel 01475 530581
> Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland.       Fax 01475 530601
> -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 16:26:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Anti-Theft Tips

Personally I don't worry about things getting stolen -- it does happen 
but I would think the individual chances are remote??? Also, I bet most 
of the guys with jeeps with lots of tools are no worse or better than 
guys in Land Rovers with lots of tools (they might not have had as much 
practice at having to use them as we have though...).

If someone steals it, collect the insurance and buy a better one.

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

On Mon, 22 Apr 1996 KKelly6788@aol.com wrote:

> >Because my winch is visible, and the truck will be parked for long
> >intervals at deserted boat ramps and public hunting grounds, visited
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 26 lines)]
> "Owner is keeping an eye on this winch with the Leupold VARI-X II 6-18x40mm
> scope on his .308"  I bet the winch will be there when you get back.
> Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 16:43:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Oil Light/Sending Unit

Yes, I did this change too, and was amazed that the part for it was under 
$10 -- obviously due to some sort of oversight at LRNA!

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

On Tue, 23 Apr 1996 KKelly6788@aol.com wrote:

> >Can anyone help me out on the problem I have with 
> >my oil light (idiot light) for my 91 Range Rover ?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> looks a lot like the ones on BMW's that seem to leak every 50,000 miles.
> Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 17:14:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: New 4x4 XPC tires for RR?

I realize my reply is a bit late on this -- sorry I've been away -- but 
thought I'd chip in my 2 cents worth.

I had the same dilemma a month or 2 ago about tire choice, and was 
initially biased against the XPC on the same grounds as you Bill.

However, after looking into the alternatives (all of which seemed to have 
their drawbacks and certainly not a lot cheaper) I looked closer at the 
4x4 XPC beside the XMS 244 (I found a shop that actually had one of the 
old standbys in stock!!)

The XPC actually has bigger voids than the XMS between the tread blocks,
and the same offset at the edges of the blocks for rut traction. So in
mud, I don't think there would be much to choose. The BFG AT tread, looked
at closely, shows it's harder for the goo to be squeezed out the side of
the tire so the read can bite; the blocks at the tire edges are shaped all
squiggly so the goo would have to follow a convoluted path. Presumably
this is done for quietness, so the edges are smooth and there is none of
the aforementioned offset between adjacent lugs for gripping the edges of
ruts. Also you might bear in mind that the BFG 225-75-R16 is wider, a
disadvantage in new snow and in mud -- even though wider tires look more
macho. Part of the secret of Land Rovers and Range Rovers in mud and snow
has always been those curious narrow tires that look so old fashioned. 

The XPC claims a 40% increase in ground contact area (maybe partly 
negating the narrowness argument above!) and a more flexible 
rubber to conform to the terrain. The sidewall is strengthened over the 
XMS by a nice rubber bead that juts out to guard against rocks etc -- a 
handy feature. They are claimed to be better in snow, and this was 
vouched for by my tire dealer who was impressed because he had recently 
driven a Disco in the snow and couldn't get it stuck. 

It may be worth noting also that in recent Four Wheeler tests where 
Discos or RRs with the XPCs are compared to other vehicles, they always 
say the XPCs were the best tires in the test both on and off pavement.

All this is a bit theoretical, and I have no direct comparison experience 
between the Michelin and the BFG, but I do between the XMS 244 and the 
XPC. I've only spent a week off road with the new XPCs but they worked 
great; not even any pierced sidewalls which I usually get! Sand and rock 
performance seemed improved; didn't encounter much mud.

I am open to other choices next time mine wear out, but for now I think 
they are fine. In practical terms, it's also nice to know the claimed 
stopping distance in the wet is improved by 5%, the tire will stand 
up to high speed highway use, and there are no worries about rubbing at 
full articulation or room to put chains on -- a thing lots of people ignore.

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR with Michelin 4X4 XPC's

On Tue, 23 Apr 1996, William Owen wrote:

> If any RR owners have put the new 4x4 XPC tires on their rovers,  what
> is your opinion of them, especially their off road ability and durability? 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 28 lines)]
> William
> 90 RR

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 19:18:25 -0500 (CDT)
From: "David C. McCormack" <dmccorma@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Not so hidden winch

At 04:20 PM 4/29/96 -0700, John Brabyn wrote:
>Can you leave the spoiler and license plate on to cover it up? On mine 
>you can.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Cheers
>John

John,

        I already removed my spoiler/air dam for the added clearance.  In
any event, my winch is somewhat visible which I have found to be useful
because while winching it is good to be able to see the winch drum and what
the cable is doing.  Also, I think it is beneficial to have the roller
fairlead "out front." Otherwise, in an off center pull, the cable could rub
against the air dam (eating it I'm sure).  My winch is still reasonably
discreet.  I did have to move the license plate up somewhat to make room for
the roller fairlead and to leave an inch or so to see the winch drum.  To do
it I inverted the license plate holder and drilled a new screw hole through
the top of the plastic bumper - very easy and quite secure.

Dave McCormack
'95 Discovery
David C. McCormack
Hinshaw & Culbertson
175 N. Patrick, Suite 115
Brookfield, WI 53045
(414)792-9150
(414) 792-9154 (fax)

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 21:43:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Difficult Soft Top Installation -Reply

In a message dated 96-04-29 18:08:47 EDT, kolanrj@gw.startribune.com (Robert
Kolander) writes:

>In regards to heating up the top, could you just keep it inside for a
>while, (ie: if it's evening and no sun to bask in), maybe over a
>vent, and then put it on? anyone tried this?

I never saw the first post... I wonder if AOL is eating my rover mail.

Just a note from my latest Besstop experience; it might have been me that
started the whole "worry about putting the top back on unless it is 80F and
sunny" thread, it has been a worry of mine.  I just had the top off last week
during our stint of spring, our fleeting stint of spring as it is now
SNOWING!  And I put the top back on in less than partly cloudy weather and
about 60F.  It went on normally, and I think it is because I've worn it in,
and it stretched out a bit.  When I really had the trouble, the top was still
relatively new.  So, maybe when a bit used, the top will be OK.  

I just was at a Land Rover event here in Southern Wisc, and met a fellow
D90'er there with the Besstop, and he was told to leave the top on for at
least a month to let it stretch.  Makes sense to me.  

John.

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 21:43:04 -0400
Subject: Re: D90 hub leak

In a message dated 96-04-29 11:58:45 EDT, rdl@NomuraNY.COM (Rob Legerio)
writes:

>So, the big question is, should I fix it myself, or have the dealer do the
>work
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>thoughts?
>Rob

Hi Rob,
I don't think that LR will give you any parts unless the dealer does the
work, so I guess you'd be on the hook for all parts cost, that is after you
determine what the problem is.  If the dealer does that, you might be inline
for a bunch of new parts "thrown" at the truck in hopes of fixing it, instead
of a tech spending the time "diagnosing" the true problem.  E.g., possibly
all new front brake pads, as the one side are probably oil soaked?  Gotta
replace 'em in pairs.  (RN gets a C note for pads??)  

Also, I did my own 15K service and haven't gotten any flack from the dealer,
they ordered seat rails, AC vents, put in new plugs, PROM, etc... all AFTER
15K came and went... without them seeing the truck.  FYI.

John, Madisonian90

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 21:43:21 -0400
Subject: Re: broken looking glass question

In a message dated 96-04-29 19:23:18 EDT, you write:

>Is an epoxy appropriate, or should I go with something like RTV?
>I saw the word LUCAS imprinted in the glue...

I've seen special glue at NAPA labelled "rear view mirror" glue.
John.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 20:59:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: "David C. McCormack" <dmccorma@execpc.com>
Subject: Strange Disco Smell . . .

        I attended a Land Rover rally this Sunday (John Purnell and his red
Defender were along) and brought along my wife for her first taste of
precarious inclines and creaking under carriages.  On the way home, my wife,
shortly after commenting about how it was fun but rather "unnecessary"
particularly when one considers the cost of the vehicle, etc., (she really
did have fun but like a good wife, works diligently to protect me from
myself) noticed a strong rubber smell.  I noticed it too and immediately
thought of all the wiring I had recently installed when I added a winch.  I
thought that perhaps some had shaken loose and were lying against the
manifold.  With the image of flames billowing out from beneath the hood and
thinking that perhaps an extinguisher for my truck might be a good idea
afterall, I pulled over, popped the hood and investigated.  Nothing.
Everything was fine.  I inspected each tire for rubbing and the brakes for
smoke or odor.  Nothing.  I checked the exhaust to be sure that a plastic
cup wasn't stuck to the catalytic converter.  Nothing.  I got back in and
there was that smell again. Quite noticeable and pungent.  Oh well, we drove
home safely, but I was afraid I had done something to the car while on the
course.  
        After work today I discovered the culprit.  While removong some gear
from the back I was struck again by the pungent rubber smell - and there was
the source! My new rubber boots I bought for muddy off roading and had
brought along to the rally.  Does owning a Discovery make one paranoid or
what?        

By the way, the rally was hosted by Knauz Land Rover of Lake Forest and the
Chicago Land Rover Association and was well done.  I couldn't stay for the
whole thing but waht I did I enjoyed.

Dave McCormack
'95 Discovery, Wisconsin, "MackX4"
        
David C. McCormack
Hinshaw & Culbertson
175 N. Patrick, Suite 115
Brookfield, WI 53045
(414)792-9150
(414) 792-9154 (fax)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 14:56:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jan Ben <jib@big.att.com>
Subject: off-roader article

sorry to X-post, will keep it short...
does anyone have a copy of the article on Rover v8 motors in the
recent "off-road" ("4x4"?) magazine?
Thanks
Jan in US

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 21 lines 1031 [forwarded 178 whitespace 225]
 Output: lines 811 [content 556  forwarded 67 (cut  111) whitespace 193]

Additional Information:

In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved
(by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Useful commands for this are 'index uk-lro-digest' which returns a list of
files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc.

Range Rover World Wide Web Sites start at 
         http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html
(shadow) http://www.OpenMarket.com/personal/caloccia/lr/pages.html

FAQ:	http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/OVLR/FAQ.4.RangeRover_ClassicUS.html
RoverWeb:		http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/RoverWeb/
Range Rover Register:	http://www.apricot.co.uk/rel3/directory/rrr/index.html
Lloyd's			http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/

If Major Domo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

  -B