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The Coil Sprung (Land-Rover) Owner List Daily Digest

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1 KKelly6788@aol.com 20Range Rover Vacuum Advance Screws
2 "Robert Watson (CNA)" [a24In Discovery Withdrawls...
3 Jeff & Laura Kessler [lm76Re: Hellas using RR driving light wiring?
4 matts@cacilj.caciasl.com13RR wood trim
5 "Tom Walsh" [tomw@netcom24 Re: Brake Life
6 John Brabyn [brabyn@skiv17Fuel tank recall follow up
7 David Rosenbaum [rosenba22Re: D90 starting problems
8 KKelly6788@aol.com 13Range Rover Grease Nipples
9 Tebbin Salvesen [tsalves13stalling & efi light
10 rairvine@unixg.ubc.ca (R12Disco CD player installation
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From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 20:07:40 -0400
Subject: Range Rover Vacuum Advance Screws

This was on the West Coast Land Rover list, It might be a good idea for all
CSO owners to make sure the screws holding their vacuum advance screws are
tight.

>the 87 RR. I noticed that both of the screws that hold the vacuum advance
>(retard? ) had fallen out in the last couple hundred miles.
>anyone know what size they are?

I decided to go out to the Range Rover to do a little preventive maintenance
and put a drop of lock-tite on my screws so they don't fall out like Paul's
did.  I am glad I did BOTH WERE LOOSE!!   The bolt/screws that I took off my
'89 had a torx T-15 head and very fine threads.

Kevin Kelly

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From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: In Discovery Withdrawls...
Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 15:00:39 -0700

I took my Discovery, "Black Beauty," in to the shop this morning to have
it's intermittent transmission temp. sensor replaced and while it was
there,  I gave them my list of "squeaks & leaks". One of the leaks was
the occasional smell of antifreeze and some green stains on the frame
below the radiator. The bad news came when they called this afternoon
saying they'd need to keep it over the weekend in order to have the
radiator re-soldered. apparently, it had leaks on both sides of the
radiator where the cores are soldered to the housing. :-(

The bad news is that for the weekend I have to drive a Toyota Corolla 
(yuk!), however, the good news is the dealer is covering the rental. 
    
                                          Bob Watson
       /-+----\                 a-robw@microsoft.com
   ___/___\____\____      Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA 
  /  _|=  |=   |_   \                
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\__/]     '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/(it sure doesn't look like a rover)

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Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 21:42:42 -0500
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Re: Hellas using RR driving light wiring?

At 08:22 AM 5/3/96 -0600, you wrote:
>Several weeks ago someone asked about installing new driving lights
>(Hellas?) using the existing wiring from the  RR's spoiler mounted driving
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
>Thanks in advance.
>William 
William

Last fall I mounted Hella 550 fog lamps in place of the driving lights on
our 1988 RR (one of the lights was smashed when a friend backed into me anyway).

I used the existing plug connection and the existing wiring and have not had
any problems.  I am using 55 watt bulbs so that thin Lucas wiring should
handle the amps.  On the fog lamp end of the plug I first cut the plug with
most of the wiring off the old driving lights (I bet the only way to buy a
new plug is with a new light attached).  I then spliced onto the wiring from
the new fog lights, covered the splice with heat shrink tubing and filled
the ends of the tubing with silicone sealer.

This allowed me to take the spoiler and lights off when needed.  In fact the
only reason I put it back on was for the lights.  I liked the look of the
Hella 1000/2000s? Mark Talbot mounted on top of his RR's bumper after he
took his spoiler off.

I may relocate my 550s to the top of the bumper at some time.  I wish I gave
it more thought earlier, the round fog lights look better up there on the
RR, IMO. My only concern would be the effect on radiator cooling by hanging
lights in the air flow, but RROs seem to have been doing it for a while.

The fog lights are powered through the existing relay with the existing
wiring. Our 1988 (I would have a 1988 model, every time I type "88" I think
"swb series LR) RR had the aux lights wired to come on only with the high
beam headlights.  The power to the relay came off the line to the LH high beam.

To power the fog lights anytime any lights are on, parking, low or high
beam, I reran the aux lamps relay power feed to come from the same line that
feeds the dimmer for the dash lights.  It is easy to get to but make sure
that, if you use it, you tap in to the line before it gets to the dimmer.  

Looking at the RR service manual, 1990 RR had fog lights and the power to
the relay came off the LH LOW BEAM line.  This means the fog lights on on
only when low beams are on, not high beams nor parking lights.  Again, per
the manual, the fog lights relay is located behind the trim panel by the
drivers left foot below the hood release.  It is the middle of 3 located
there.  The blue/yellow wire (connected to terminal 86?) should be the power
to operate the relay.  Blue/purple wires are the power to the lights.

Power to the dash lights dimmer looks to be the red/orange wire.  The
red/brown wire is the WRONG wire to use, it is the reduced voltage to the
dash lights and the black wire is a ground.

WARNING*******WARNING*******WARNING*******WARNING*******WARNING

Every thing I said may be wrong!

Do not assume that your RR is wired anything like my service manual says it
is. Always check the wiring using a multimeter (and we all know the
perferred choice of LROs now) or have your mechanic do the work.  And I bet
your owners manual like ours say alway disconnect the battery first. (Know
your radio's secret code?).

If you go with more than 55 watt bulbs put in heavier duty wiring.  You can
still power the relay through the existing switch.

Good luck.  E-mail or call if I can help or confuse more.

(BTW, if things do go wrong, this conversation never took place.)

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover (no burning wire smell yet!)
Newport NH USA   603-863-7883

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Date: Fri, 03 May 1996 15:31:13 -0700
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: RR wood trim

I didn't notice whether you received any replies to your post about wood 
trim a week ago, but I just got around to checking the name of the stuff I 
use: Feed N Wax, by Howard.  There's a number on the bottle: 800-266-9545.  
It's this goopy stuff made from bees wax and orange peels, makes the wood 
look nice, keeps it from drying out, goes on easily, comes off easily, even 
smells good.

-Matt

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From: "Tom Walsh" <tomw@netcom.com>
Date:          Fri, 3 May 1996 23:45:58 +0000
Subject:       Re: Brake Life

Myne were toast in the front at around 25k
I think its normal!

> I found that my rear brake pads on my D90 (with about 20k miles) are
> next to gone.  I ordered a set ($50, ouch!), but I'm curious if this is
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> lighter vehicles which wear more slowly on their pads.  Should I be
> concerned about uneven wear between front and back as well?

Tomw
---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*
                       Fluent Networks
             "Intelligent Networking Solutions"
Tom Walsh
tomw@netcom.com soon to be tomw@fluentnet.com
95 LR Disco "The Light Brigade"
#include <std_disclaim.h>
*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*

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Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 10:44:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Fuel tank recall follow up

An interesting thing I noticed the other day_-when I filled up the tank 
with gas. I managed to stuff 20.4 gallons in; with the old tank I had 
never managed more than 19.6 gallons (and that was a time when I 
literally ran out of gas).

The fuel gauge thing is still annoying; when I get time I think I'll see 
if a pull-up resistor won't fix that.

Cheers

John Brabyn
89 RR

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Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 10:45:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: D90 starting problems

On Thu, 2 May 1996, Raoul Posmentier wrote:

> I bought a new D90 a few months ago and love it.
Congratulations! And it is good that you love your Land Rover: helps in
getting through tough times...

> Today, after starting it and letting it idle for a few (10-20)
> seconds, it stalled.  Numerous attempts to restart it failed.
I have one of the '94s that tended to stall and not re-start. The
technician at Seattle Land Rover found that there was (excess) grease in
some of the wiring harness connections related to the air intake sensor
and EFI, I think. After he painstakingly removed the grease
with small tools (dental picks, etc.) the problem did not recur.

Best wishes,
David Rosenbaum
'94 D90

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From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 19:01:31 -0400
Subject: Range Rover Grease Nipples

I was lubricating the U-Joints on the Range Rover today and I noticed that
the grease nipple on my front U-Joint has snapped off.  Any idea if I can buy
just a grease nipple for the U-Joint?  It will be a lot easier to get the
half of the nipple out of the U-joint with a screw extractor than to replace
the entire U-Joint.

Kevin Kelly

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Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 16:59:10 -0600 (MDT)
From: Tebbin Salvesen <tsalves@slcpl.slcpl.lib.ut.us>
Subject: stalling & efi light

thanks to all who responded to the stalling and accompaning efi light
warning on my friends 88 RR. The culprit turned out to be a broken wire on
the temp sensor, causing intermittent contact. A very strange but easily
repairable problem. The wire was broken inside the sheathing--not easily
detected.
again thanks for the responses
T.S.
87 EYS edition

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Date: Sat, 4 May 1996 16:18:24 -0700
From: rairvine@unixg.ubc.ca (Robert Irvine)
Subject: Disco CD player installation

Would someone please tell me where I might find instructions on CD player
installation for a Discovery.

Thank you.

Rob Irvine
rairvine@unixg.ubc.ca

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