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The Coil Sprung (Land-Rover) Owner List Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 Oscar [omont@mnl.sequel.33Re: 89 NAS RR temp
2 "Robert Watson (CNA)" [a34RE: Disco FL to AK
3 mgrove@polarnet.com (Mel25Disco FL to AK cor
4 rover@pinn.net (Alexande24East Coast Trails
5 Modern@learnlink.emory.e1094 D90 Transmissions?
6 rover@pinn.net (Alexande20Tools 'n' such
7 rovah@agate.net (John Ca15RR Fuel Injection ?s
8 PZavaletta@aol.com 10Re: 1994 Discovery for Sale
9 PurnellJE@aol.com 37Re: RR subsidize-- was: Fuel Tank Replaced/LRMW Service
10 "Tom Walsh" [tomw@netcom21 RE: Crested Butte
11 JEPurnell@aol.com 20Land Rovers for Life?
12 rovah@agate.net (John Ca16Contractions!
13 "Stefan R. Jacob" [1000419Re: Using an applesauce brain...
14 "Stefan R. Jacob" [1000427Re: Lucky escape, then doomed by Lucas
15 "T.Stevenson" [gbfv08@ud24Re: How does one open a D90 bonnet?
16 "barnett childress" [bar187Re: D90 recalls
17 "Andrew A. Dallas" [adal33[not specified]
Majordomo About the digest
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Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 23:42:39 +0800
From: Oscar <omont@mnl.sequel.net>
Subject: Re: 89 NAS RR temp

John :

Hey, didn't know that.  Thanks for the info and will give that a shot.

Oscar

=====================

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Sat, 18 May 1996 23:12:32 -0400
Subject: Re: 89 NAS RR temp

In a message dated 96-05-17 23:09:09 EDT, you write:

>(snip)...
>Oscar

on the RRs is there an extra place in the cooling system  to mount a manual
aftermarket water temp guage?  You could just mount it under the hood, not
bring it into the cabin, and verify your OEM readings with the underhood
unit.  At least this would give you security knowing the engine isn't blowing
up.
John.

Oscar
rental Disco
it will go off-road!!!

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From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: RE: Disco FL to AK
Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 09:53:15 -0700

<trip details snipped>

Quite a trip. My wife & I would like to take the family up the Al-Can
for a summer vacation, but that will probably have to wait 'til next
year, since we are going to be headed to Colorado this year.

>        So far Im very pleased with the Disco and have already been
>exploring the trails.  There is one thing that is concerning me at the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>but what about the banging I'm hearing on intial activation?  Has
>anyone
>else heard these sounds?
I've had the ABS go on numerous times and NEVER heard a bang. In fact,
I've been impressed with how smoothly it activates. I'd have it checked
as soon as possible. That doesn't sound right at all.

(more) Happy Trails!

    _____
   {_____}
   /|__|_\__(|                           Bob Watson
  |   |   |  \                 a-robw@microsoft.com
  |---|___|___\____      Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA 
  |~~_|=  |=  |o_  }\                
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/          with external cargo pod

(more) Happy Trails!

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Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 01:36:30 +0400
From: mgrove@polarnet.com (Melvin Grove)
Subject: Disco FL to AK cor

        I forget to add the rear jump seats, step and grab handle kit to
the the list of accessories.
        The total cost for the Disco was $36,603.86.  This includes $30,075
for the SD, 6,430.86 in options, $95 Tag & Title fee, and $3 GA warrenty
rights fee.
The options included the winch, bike rack, ski rake, stainless running
boards, rubber mats, CD player, winter wiper blades, waterproof seat
covers, low side rigid cargo protector, hitch kit, hitch wiring kit, front
headlamp guards, rear lamp guards and rear bumper lamp guards.

    ______
   /______\__                           Mel Grove
  |   |   |  \                 mgrove@polarnet.fnsb.ak.us
  |---|___|___\____            Ft Wainwright, Ak
  |  _|=  |=  |o_  } I
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_||/  '96 Epson Green Discovery
    \_/        \_/

All men are great in their dreams,
reality just narrows the competition!

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Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 18:48:33 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: East Coast Trails

Andrew Dallas wrote:

>Are there any fellow Rover owners out there willing to share their favorite 
>spots?  Does anyone know of a good book of legal trails....

How about LRNA's "secret" test tract?  It's on the west side of US 301, just 
south of the Central Avenue interchange.  The nearest major landmark is 
Bowie, MD and the US 50/301 interchange about 5-7 miles north.

The entrance is a dual road into what was to be a thousand acre office/
industrial park.  The paving runs for about 100 feet (about the same
distance as the line of credit from the bank, apparently).  Stay on the
level track and head slightly to the left where the roads part.  About 1/3 
mile in, you'll come to a stairstep mound and some other "built" obstacles.  
Just beyond this clearing are half a dozen looping trails of varying 
difficulty.  Several stream/bog crossings and several dug mud pits.  Various 
bits of torn-off Detroit metal littering the landscape attest to the 
difficulty of some sections.  In the wet, a winch or a buddy with a snatch 
strap is necessary.  Cheers

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From: Modern@learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P. Murphy)
Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 20:28:57 -0400
Subject: 94 D90 Transmissions?

Does anyone happen to know if the 94 D90 transmission (early model) is
still available?  I'm having problems with mine and would like to know
whether it will be replaced or repaired as a 94 or if the new one would
be installed by the dealership.

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Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 21:50:25 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Tools 'n' such

I posted this a while back, just as the Major was starting his sabatical, 
but it apparently got lost in the ether, so once again, what tools/spares 
should one carry for a '96 Discovery.  In my '72 88, I carry a *complete* 
tool kit and enough spares to do everything up to a major engine overhaul.  
I've rebuilt carbs 15 miles from the nearest paved road and once rebuilt a 
fuel pump on the way to a wedding (and wasn't late).  For the last 200,000 
miles, I'm the only one who has worked on it.  However, electric 
*everything* on the Disco has me a bit perplexed.  And where do you stow the 
hi-lift?

One other question.  I've just noticed a clicking noise somewhere in the 
final drive train.  Like a rock in the tire, but with a higher frequency 
that suggests CV joints or prop shaft U joints that you can only hear when 
there is a curb or something to reflect the noise back.  In the 88 with tire 
song, gear whine and engine noise, I never would have heard it.  Thoughts?

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Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 22:51:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy)
Subject: RR Fuel Injection ?s

Do all the NAS Range Rovers have the "hot-wire" system?  Any help would be
appreciated!

Cheers!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover, 1966 Series IIA

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From: PZavaletta@aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 23:10:50 -0400
Subject: Re: 1994 Discovery for Sale

Lee - why would you want to sell your Discovery? 

Peter M. Zavaletta, Esq.
95 County Classic

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From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 May 1996 23:21:49 -0400
Subject: Re: RR subsidize-- was:  Fuel Tank Replaced/LRMW Service

In a message dated 96-05-19 01:19:11 EDT, you write:

> I watched as a well-dressed
>elderly couple were gushing over a new 4.0 RR(can you blame them!?).  It
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>of those Rovers that maybe you or I could someday afford.  What a food
>chain! ;-)

this is a point that gets brought out in various forms, the idea that the RRs
and other expensive LR products never get off road, or simply are used as
"regular" cars.  My view on this is one of subsidization, we NEED these upper
income types to help keep LR in business, I think my defender would cost even
more, thus putting it out of my reach (well, when it was within my reach...
heh heh) with out the profit generated by the RRs.  I want LR to remain in
business, and if it takes wealthy types who will only lightly drive them,
fine.  And like John points out, when these vehicles finally make it to the
used market, all the better for the used car purchaser!  Heck
(attention...sales plug here:) just like my Defender, if you want to buy a
used rig, you really want one that HASNT been pounded by some off roading,
especially by someone who doesn't understand how to off road with a LR, or
rather, treats it like a J&&P!  BLech!  Whoever ends up buying my Defender
will get a pampered, well cared for, and never abused truck.  If I were
buying a used Defender, I'd want to buy mine...  (hey, maybe I could sell it
to myself for a real steal...)

Go RR.  Subsidize!

John.
1994 D90,17K,Red,AC,
extras, 608-251-9121
7/100K warr.  $29.5K

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From: "Tom Walsh" <tomw@netcom.com>
Date:          Sun, 19 May 1996 19:53:24 +0000
Subject:       RE: Crested Butte

> I got my invitation in yesterday's mail :-) and I'll be sending it out
> in today's mail!

How'd you get invited, and whats all the fuss about ( what is the 
event! )

Tomw
---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*
                       Fluent Networks
             "Intelligent Networking Solutions"
Tom Walsh
tomw@netcom.com soon to be tomw@fluentnet.com
95 LR Disco "The Light Brigade"
#include <std_disclaim.h>
*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*

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From: JEPurnell@aol.com
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 00:02:20 -0400
Subject: Land Rovers for Life?

I have changed a biblical cliche to sum up my current Land Rover situation,
in regards to selling my Defender, and going it  Roverless, (as temporarily
as possible):

I once complained about having to sell my Land Rover...

     Until I met a man who never owned one.

John P.
********
D90 For Sale:
1994,17K,Red,AC,
extras, 608-251-9121
7/100K warranty. 

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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 04:42:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy)
Subject: Contractions!

Well, the contractions are 5 minutes apart(my wife's, not mine) and it's
04:40 EST here.  I'll keep you guys posted...next post will signal the
arrival of our new family member!

Cheers!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover, 1966 Series IIA

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Date: 20 May 96 05:15:35 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Re: Using an applesauce brain...

>lines turned out.  It was a sunny day and having driven all over the
>property in my J**p, even in serious rain, I didn't think twice about pulling
>just off the road into the weeds to take a look.
 ... snip ...
>I found I could move only one way, sideways away from the road down
>a very gradual slop.  Every time I tried to move, I just slipped farther from
>the road.  My back tires had no traction at all.   Suddenly trying to get a

You simply forgot to take one parameter into consideration:  Vehicle weight,
and Newtons observations on gravity...  The 4-door RR is one heavy SOB, and
driving sideways with it on slippery slopes really should be avoided.

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

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Date: 20 May 96 05:16:55 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Re: Lucky escape, then doomed by Lucas

>> ow the question. The dealer replaced an electronic module and connector
>> wire on the distributor. The story was, the failure was unconnected to
>> distributor.

> my only connection with Range Rover electrics is this exact part.  A RR owner
> a bout 2 blocks from me had his truck parked during a very cold spell here,
> teh minus 25 one, and afterwards it wouldn't start.  Turns out it was that
> ignition module.  OK, replaced.  Awhile later, it won't start again. Same

This is the 'amplifier module', and yes, it does occasionally act up.
Apparently something inside can 'stick' or burn.  Mine let me down after a
party when I tried to start the car (87 RR) 3 AM on a freezing January
night (don't know the temp, but my fingertips briefly froze on the door
handle when opening).  Had to sleep in the friends living room...  Next day
after having relieved the engine of the effects of flooding and some
troubleshooting I 'fixed' the gizmo by warming it up with a rag soaked in
hot water, and vigorously tapping it a while with the plastic handle of
a screwdriver. Engine started right up, and hasn't failed since. But I
carry a spare module with me, just in case...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

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Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 10:41:49 +0100 (BST)
From: "T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: How does one open a D90 bonnet?

At 19:38 18/05/96 -0800, you wrote:
>The hood release has failed me.  Anyone know how to open the hood without using
>the inside release?
>-Rick

If you remove the front grille, you can get to the lever that the release
cable pulls on to pop the catch. Looking at the front of the vehicle, it's
underneath on the left of the rad panel bonnet catch. With some deft
fingerwork and using a largish screwdriver, you can push the lever to the
left and release the catch. Watch out that you don't prod a hole in the
radiator if the screwdriver slips.

 Tom
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Thomas D.I. Stevenson                          gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
SNL Mussel Fouling Project
University Marine Biological Station,      Tel 01475 530581
Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland.       Fax 01475 530601
-----------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Mon, 20 May 96 6:51:26 -0400
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: Re: D90 recalls

Hi all,

After I posted my question about D90 recalls last week I called Jim Pappas 
@ LRMW. Jim assured me that there have been no D90 recalls. 

He told me that if he heard about any recalls he would be sure to spread 
the word (Jim owns a 95 D90 too).

I now have 24K miles on my Defender. Some of the things that I thought were 
troublesome; notchy shifting, slight clunks in the drivetrain, etc. have 
smoothed out a bit. Due to break in, and learning to adapt my driving to 
the vehicle.

Other things related to faulty parts like; safari cage rubber cracking, 
bonnet release failure, loose turn signal connectors, etc. are common known 
problems to the list and have been taken care of by peoples dealers.

The only problem that the dealer was aware of, and didn't have a fix for, 
was the "dreaded 95 D90 rear tail light disease". If anyone out there is 
new - the round tail lights fill with water, corrode, and short out. 
Possibly frying the harness in the process. At this time the dealer just 
keeps replacing the corroded sockets. I finally fixed this myself by 
cleaning any corrosion I found, packing the connectors with white lithium 
grease, and drilling a small hole in the bottom of each lens to let any 
water back out. After inspecting the connectors I couldn't see a way to 
really keep the water from entering. At least this way the water can't 
collect and get to the bulb socket. I will occasionally check these and 
clean/regrease as needed until LR comes up with a better solution.

P.S. I broke down and bought a surrey top, CD changer and subwoofer!
The stereo stuff is the first creature comfort non-off roading item I have 
bought. The surrey is great I love it. It has enough protection from the 
rain (w/the door tops), and can truly be left on for the summer. Last year 
I ran all summer with the bimini top and did get drenched once in a while. 
I haven't installed the CD changer and sub yet, but plan to this week. I'll 
let everyone know how it goes.

Cheers,
Barnett
95 D90 with lots of off road stuff, (and a stereo I can hear on the 
highway).  
-------------
Original Text
From: Bb0yz@aol.com, on 5/19/96 12:03 PM:
I  am very interested in this information, 
PLEASE INFORM US OF YOUR INVESTIGATION!

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`
end

------------------------------
[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960520 -> | Search Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 09:34:52 -0400
Subject: Oil Change D90
From: "Andrew A. Dallas" <adallas@systemsoft.com>

OK, I've gotten a ton of requests for the "Correct way" to change the oil 
in a D90. Mine is a '95 D90. I imagine the '94s are the same but you 
should check.

The engineer told me that the best way to do an oil change is to first 
remove and replace the oil filter. He said you don't need to fill the 
filter with oil but I'll probably do that anyway. As a mechanic in my 
younger years, I was trained to smear a little oil on mating surface of 
the oil filter before installation. This makes a better seal and keeps 
the filter from binding. After you replace the oil filter, remove the 
drain plug and allow most of the oil to drain. There's no need to let the 
vehicle drain to the last drop. In fact, you risk losing the prime if you 
allow the vehicle to drain too long. Replace the plug and fill with fresh 
oil. I alray like to check for leaks after an oil change so let the 
vehicle idle for a minute and then check for leaks. 

Happy Rovering and thanks for the wave from the Range Rover on the Mass 
Pike in Newton, MA yesterday.
-AD

************************************************************************
 Andrew A. Dallas
 Full Spectrum Software, Inc.
 30 Whittemore Road
 Newton, MA 02158, USA

 (617) 969-7216, On Site Office: (508) 647-2948
 email: adallas@tiac.net, Web Page: http://www.tiac.net/users/adallas/
************************************************************************

------------------------------
[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960520 -> | Search Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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 Output: lines 689 [content 433  forwarded 40 (cut  12) whitespace 142]

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