The Coil Sprung (Land-Rover) Owner List Daily Digest

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From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: Dead tacho
Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 10:05:24 +-200

on
>the vehicle.
>I first noticed the problem no more than one day after replacing the
>alternator. (May have been same day and I just failed to notice.) Does
>anyone think there's a correlation?  Or, is there something else I =

ought to
>check out?  (I had NOT been fiddling around with the electricals or =
behind
>the instrument binnacle.)

You might be right. Some, but not all, Land/Range-Rovers with the V8 are =
taking the pulses to the tachometer from an output on the generator.
Reason: It is a very big difference in the price in Europe for a tacho =
for  a 8 cylinder compared to a 4 cylinder. 8 cylinder motors are used =
on less than 1% of the cars. If the generator assy is made in a way, =
that the frequency of one of the 3 phases inside is exactly half of the =
rpm, the factory can use a cheep tachometer made for a 4 cylinder car.

You might have got a new generator with wrong output, or the connection =
on the generator is not good or wrong. Check the schematics that =
followed the new generator to see if it gives the right signals. Check =
with an osilloscope that the output from the generator to the tachometer =
is right. Check the tachometer by giving it the correct input signals =
from a signalgenerator ( if one of Your friends are HAM radio amature he =
has that equipment).

Happy Rovering
Bent Boehlers, Denmark
110" V8, 3.5 , STW, red.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 May 1996 21:29:19 -0500
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Fuel Pump Replacement - Done!

Thanks to all who replied with help and suggestions.

After confirming my fear that the fuel pump was bad I replaced it.  Fuse
good, inertia switch good, 11 volts to the electrical lead to the pump, no
reading with ohm meter across pump leads, no noise from the pump and finally
no fuel being pumped from the disconnected line before the filter.

Here are some of my observations from this job.

Draining the tank.  I could not get a siphon down the fill pipe.  Later I
saw that there is a mesh screen at the bottom of the filler pipe.  Since I
figured I only had 4-5 gallons in the tank, it was below the level of the
fuel inlet from the filler pipe.  So I took the hose between the filler pipe
and the tank off and siphoned the tank that way.  Siphon took about all the
fuel out of the tank so I did not open the drain on the bottom of the tank.

Since UPS did not arrive yet with the new pump from RN, I did not want to go
much furthur until I could finish.  Finally about 3 PM I noticed a package
by the back door.  UPS!  Normally they bring the truck right up the drive,
dogs bark, etc.  Not today, this Saturday guy walked up the drive and just
left it.  Could of rung the bell.

To work!  The hoses and wires came off easy enough.  To reach the the fuel
return line it was necessary to unclamp the fuel filter from the frame and
move it out of the way (one end is unhooked anyway).  This will drain the
filter.

Remove the four nuts holding the tank and it will only drop a little before
getting stuck.  Mine is the new tank with the seperate shield and the shield
will fall away from the tank.  The tank hangs on the inlet pipe and left
hand angled support the the hitch receiver.  RN recommended removing the
bolts for the rear lashing rings but mine would not move.  Tipping the right
hand side up and playing with it got the tank down after about 3-4 minutes.

About the tank.  This one was installed under the recall in January.
Without the shield, it weighs about 20 pounds (empty).  When the shield came
away I was able to see that there were water droplets on the bottom of the
tank, condensation?  The top of the shield was dry and dusty.  The seam area
of the tank by the rear mounting holes was beginning to rust and some paint
had flaked off this area.

Here came the riskyest part of this job.  Here I was on a Saturday afternoon
of a 3 day weekend and I had to seperate the old pump from the 8 year old, 4
inch long piece of rubber fuel line held to it with an eight year old hose
clamp.  It would be Tuesday before I could get fuel line locally.  The hose
clamp could not be saved.  But I did have spare clamps.  Taking my time, the
hose was saved and reused.  If I had the option, I would have replaced the
hose and maybe the metal line that attaches to it (and runs to the side of
the tank where it connects to the fuel filter.

With the new pump in and fuel line attached the tank was reinstalled.  It
actually went back in easier than it came out.  Hook up all the lines and
wires and add some gas.  Cranked for 5-6 seconds and fired up.  Ran rough
(at the muffler sounded like a miss) for a few minutes then smoothed out.
Cleaned up and the RR was in the barn for the night by 7 PM.  Since the
weather was to be nice this weekend and if I did have a spill of gas, better
outside then soaking into the barn floor, the job was done outside literally
under a shade tree.

Some notes:

It is easier to get the tank out and in with the rear jacked up and resting
on jack stands.

After getting the tank out I looked at the frame in that area.  Mine was in
worse shape than in other areas with regard to rust.  I took the time to
wire brush the area and apply some black Rustoleum (paint).  Again with more
thought and planning I would have properly sanded, primed and painted (with
the recommended 24 hours between coats.  Right.)

Sorry to be so long.  I hope thiswill be of help to someone else sometime.

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover
Newport NH USA   603-863-7883

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