The Coil Sprung (Land-Rover) Owner List Daily Digest

Send Submissions rro@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 05 Jun 96 07:14:49 MST
Subject: RR Brake Pads

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
I found that BAP auto parts (foreign car specialists) had several
options listed for RR. Semi-metallic and organic. They said that the
organic wear faster but don't wear out the rotors, and that the
semi-metallic will stop ever so slightly faster. (like a foot or two
shorter from 60-0.)

Good luck! Dave, '87 RR

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}  to what lies within us."

"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson
=========================================================================
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 22:38:43 -0500
X-Sender: lmkessler@srnet.com
X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: RR Brake Pads

What are the recommended brake pads (front and rear) for the Range Rover?

Are there any generic brands available?

Thanks.

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover
Newport NH USA   603-863-7883

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 16:32:27 +0200
From: Christophe Girardey <girardey@montrouge.ts.slb.com>
Subject: Transmission Belt Longevity ?

Hi all,

Last year, one of our French 4x4 Magazine reports an interesting 
opinion
poll around 2.000 Discovery owners (most of them have 200 TDi 
one). As
part of the results, it appears that transmission belt 
frequently broke at
a 50.000 Km average distance. Consequently, the authors advise 
to replace
it quickly before any damage.

Curiously, all the French Land Rover garage owners I've 
consulted, asked
me that they replace the transmission belt only at a 100000 Km 
distance.

What should I think about this ? Must have to replace now or 
wait ?

Thanks for your comments.

--
Christophe GIRARDEY ( Le Mée - France )
'92 Discovery with 200 TDi engine (75000 Km)
Software Developper (Free-lance)
Internet   : girardey@montrouge.ts.slb.com
Compuserve : 100600.2265@compuserve.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jun 96 17:33:36 +0200
From: Igor Cerutti <igor@tinet.ch>
Subject: Re: Transmission Belt Longevity ?

At 16,32 5.06.96 +0200, you wrote:

>Curiously, all the French Land Rover garage owners I've 
>consulted, asked
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>What should I think about this ? Must have to replace now or 
>wait ?

Don't wait a bit !!!!! Go to your next Land Rover garage and make it change
so quickly as possible !

Some friend of my, they broked the transmission belt of a 200 Tdi near by
50000 Km !!!!!!

Personally I fitted the Zeus conversion, ... so no more belt !

regards

igor

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

     ___________________	
    |         |		|                   Igor Cerutti
    |         |         | 		    Via Bressanella 1a	
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |      		    CH-6828 Balerna
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O                 Switzerland
   \____=== ===== ===____/                  igor@tinet.ch
   |o    |  #####  |    o|                
   | ( ) |#########| ( ) |      	    '74 88 SIII Truck Cab 	
   |o    |#########|    o|                  '86 Range Rover Vogue 3.5 Efi 
   |_____|_ ##### _|_____|                  '93 Defender 90 Tdi
  [_______________________]
     XXXX           XXXX
     XXXX	    XXXX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 09:41:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Transmission Belt Longevity ?

Folks, what is a transmission belt?

Cheers

John

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 12:46:45 -0400
Subject: Range Rover Temp Guage

>To tie it in to LR's.... Enjoy the weather, get out, and get dirty!
>But remember to bring LOTS of water, for yourself, and your beast!
>(That is, your LR, not your spouse!) ;-)

It was also over 100 degrees in California's Sacramento Valley this weekend.
 I had to tow the boat to the shop to have a seal replaced in the tranny.
 Have anyone ever heard about a Range Rover temp gauge sticking?  I was
towing (a tournament ski boat with a PCM/Chevy 454 on a tandem trailer) up
hill (pedal was on the floor) in the Range Rover at 75mph, with the AC on
full blast in 103 degree heat and the temp gauge never went over 1/4.  I
don't think I have ever seen the Range Rover temp gauge go over 1/4 ever, it
seems like it should have at least gone to 1/2.

Kevin Kelly
'89 Range Rover

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 12:46:35 -0400
Subject: Range Rover Power Locks

>Yes, plus the passenger side power lock sometimes not functioning,
>requiring you to walk around and lock the door manually. Sharpens your
>sense of security and does something for your fitness...

If a Range Rover Power lock is only functioning "sometimes" it probably just
needs to be adjusted (or on the '89-'95's the plastic around the lock lever
may have dirt in it causing friction). 

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

From: lenagham@bachman.com
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 96 12:59:46 EST
Subject: Re: Range Rover Power Locks

     The early NAS RR's have an integrated Power Lock control unit and 
     drivers door actuator assembly inside the drivers door. Later models 
     seperated the control unit from the actuator and it is located inside 
     the vehicle somewhere. The latter units are supposed to be more 
     reliable.
     
     The power locks on my 87 RR stopped working a couple of years ago. I 
     took the control unit and actuator out of the door and took it apart. 
     There were a couple of micro switches that were misaligned - fixing 
     these gave me back power locks. After about 12 months they went to 
     working intermittently then gave up all together again about 6 months 
     ago. I haven't tried to "fix" them again.
     
     Mike Lenaghan
     

> Subject: Range Rover Power Locks
> Author:  KKelly6788@aol.com at inetmail

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
> may have dirt in it causing friction). 
> Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

From: lenagham@bachman.com
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 96 13:02:13 EST
Subject: Re: Range Rover Temp Guage

     Kevin,
     
     the temperature needle on my 87 RR never used to go above the 1/4 mark 
     until the sensor failed and it shot up into the red. I put in a new 
     sensor and now the needle sits at the 1/2 way mark all the time. 
     
     Mike

> Subject: Range Rover Temp Guage
> Author:  KKelly6788@aol.com at inetmail

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 26 lines)]
> Kevin Kelly
> '89 Range Rover

------------------------------

From: Guydell@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 13:25:24 -0400
Subject: 90 RR distributor

My distributor rotor shaft has up-and-down play in it such that the advance
is out of whack.  Has anyone ever broken down and repaired one of these
distributors?  I understand there is an internal bushing that is replaceable.
 Also, does anyone know of a GM (Buick 215) or other replacement for a 90 RR
distributor?  I understand 87-91 RR distributors are essentially the same
except that the later models have a three-pin (instead of two) electrical
connection.  The dealers want $663 for a new distributor!  Has anyone
purchased one directly from Lucas in England at a better price?  

Guy della-Cioppa
90 RR Beluga black
Guy dell@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 12:40:43 -0500
From: Shaun Carrigan <shaunc@infi.net>
Subject: Re: Range Rover Temp Guage

>  Have anyone ever heard about a Range Rover temp gauge sticking?  

Kevin,
My old gauge used to stay around the 1/4 mark, then the sender went bad 
and it would climb into the red as soon as it warmed. After my recent 
overheating incident, I replaced the sender and now it stays around the 
1/2 way mark.
-- Shaun Carrigan

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 12:48:08 -0500
From: Shaun Carrigan <shaunc@infi.net>
Subject: Re: Transmission Belt Longevity ?

> Don't wait a bit !!!!! Go to your next Land Rover garage and make it change
> so quickly as possible !
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> 50000 Km !!!!!!
> Personally I fitted the Zeus conversion, ... so no more belt !

Mon dieu, qu'est-ce qu'il raconte?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 11:50:30 -0600
From: Chris Brosious <brosious@pogo.den.mmc.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission Belt Longevity ?

John Brabyn wrote:
> Folks, what is a transmission belt?
> Cheers
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Cheers
> John
John,
Many transfer cases contain a chain (belt?) to drive the secondary shaft 
from the primary input shaft, but without looking at the workshop manual 
I don't know what's in the Discovery's transfer case.  There is another 
possibility, automatics use bands to lock up the gear cases (effectively 
changing the gears) of the planetary sets. So maybe he is talking about 
one of these?

Chris Brosious
'94 D90

------------------------------

From: lenagham@bachman.com
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 96 13:50:19 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Transmission Belt Longevity ?

     I think they are talking about timing belts not transmission belts.
     
     Mike

> Subject: Re: Transmission Belt Longevity ?
> Author:  shaunc@infi.net at inetmail

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
> > Personally I fitted the Zeus conversion, ... so no more belt !
> Mon dieu, qu'est-ce qu'il raconte?

------------------------------

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 05 Jun 96 10:58:39 MST
Subject: RR runs hot with A/C on.

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
Hello all!

I've been noticing a problem with my '87 RR V8-EFI. It seems that
occasionally, (and lately more often than not) when I run the A/C (a
must here in Phoenix AZ) the temp gauge climbs upwards between 1/2 and
3/4 hot. Also, when I come to a stop, it often stalls and is hard to
start when it stalls, sometimes taking 30 seconds or so of cranking. At
first I thought radiator, or cooling system, but with the stalling and
hard starting afterwords I am thinking a sensor or something. I've only
noticed it happen when the A/C is on, but it may happen with it off. Too
HOT to "experiment" by running without A/C.

Any ideas on what it may be or where to look?

LR's seem to be consistent, if nothing else. Surely someone else has
experienced this?

P.S. I'm curious too, what's a transmission belt?

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___    before us are tiny matters compared
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}  to what lies within us."
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson

------------------------------

From: lenagham@bachman.com
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 96 14:16:43 EST
Subject: Re: RR runs hot with A/C on.

     David,
     
     there is a fuel temp sensor on the RR which is used to improve 
     starting when hot. It is screwed into the fuel rail, I think towards 
     the front of the engine.
     
     You might want to test it. The specs are in the workshop manual.
     
     Regards
     Mike

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 05 Jun 96 11:31:04 MST
Subject: Re: Transmission Belt Longevity ?

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
>> From: Shaun Carrigan <shaunc@infi.net>

>> Mon dieu, qu'est-ce qu'il raconte?

OH! But of COURSE! I should have thought of that!!   ;-)

(Just making fun at my ignorance of the French language!.. Hey! If ya
can't laugh at yourself, you're a poor soul indeed!)

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___    before us are tiny matters compared
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}  to what lies within us."
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 05 Jun 96 11:44:50 MST
Subject: Re: Transmission Belt Longevity ?

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
Wouldn't the bands be likely to last much longer than 50K? And wouldn't
they take some time to go out, like slipping a lot between shifts, and
such?

If I were to guess, (I am) I'd say that the "belt(s?)" that were
referred to would be the "chain thing" in the transfer case. This would
be in the later models, right? Beginning in what year??

Dave (semantics are a funny thing) Brown

No! Not THAT "funny!" I meant like peculiar "funny."
eccentric, bizarre, curious, erratic, freakish, idiosyncratic, kooky, odd,
oddball, quaint, queer, quirky, singular, strange, unusual, weird

(Hate me yet?) ;-)

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___    before us are tiny matters compared
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}  to what lies within us."
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson
=========================================================================
From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@olympus.co.symbios.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission Belt Longevity ?
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 96 11:53:48 MDT
Cc: rro@playground.sun.com (Range Rover Owners)
"John Brabyn" at Jun 5, 96 9:41 am
Mailer: Elm [revision: 70.85]

John Brabyn asks:

> Folks, what is a transmission belt?

I think this refers to the "bands" in an auto tranny.

Bands are a wear item and are only expected to last a finite
number of shifts.

--
Jeff "we don't need no steenkin' bands" Gauvin
'94 D90

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 05 Jun 96 11:49:59 MST
Subject: Re[2]: Transmission Belt Longevity ?

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
>> From: lenagham@bachman.com

>>      I think they are talking about timing belts not transmission belts.

>>      Mike

AH! Good point! I'll bet THIS is what they were referring to!!

Makes sense NOW! And I'd agree- replace it if it's the rubber type running
off the front of the engine. They don't last that long, and depending
on the vehicle, can cause major damage if they happen to break while
driving at any engine speed.

(Hey! Do you speak French or something??)

Dave... ("playing" far too much Today..)

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___    before us are tiny matters compared
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}  to what lies within us."
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 09:10:10 -1000
From: "ROGER HALL: HNL M.E. GROUP" <ROGER_H@verifone.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission Belt Longevity ?

A transmission belt is a device that keeps the transmission from falling to
the floor, which would be quite embarassing especially in mixed company.

Roger

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 15:24:19 +0100
From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi)
Subject: Rattle found.  Yikes!!!

I just had LRMW check out the rattle on my '95 Disco.  It was not something
as simple as the heat shield, unfortunately, but rather a dinged catalytic
converter on the driver's side.  The cat is a tin can with a very brittle
ceramic honeycomb in it, and amazingly, it hangs down below the frame on
the driver's side (NAS, so, left side of truck).  It got dented somehow,
most likely offroad, but it didn't start the noise until months after the
dent got put into it.  (I dinged it at last year's Downeast rally, so
almost a year ago, but the rattle is about one month old.)  The ding is
more like a scratch or scrape, maybe 1/8 inch deep or less, by 2 inches.

Bad news is, and this is bad, replacement cost with labor is $1400.  Yow!
This is because the LR part that contains the cat is actually the entire
front half of the exhaust system.  This makes it a y-shaped piece with
downpipes from both cylinder banks, 2 CATS, one on each side, and a joined
pipe that goes to the muffler.  Like this:

Engine=======XXCATXX=====\
                          \                     Everything between Engine
                           |======Muffler       and muffler replaced as
                          /                     one expensive friggin
Engine=======XxCATXX=====/                      piece!

The truck runs fine, and passed emmissions tests with flying colors even
though it had the rattle.  It sounds like sh*t though, and I don't expect
it to get batter with time.  Which brings me to my questions.

1.  Anybody have a spare cat hanging around I could buy?
2.  What do you think my chances are of having a muffler shop like Midas
splice one in, instead of doing the entire front half of the exhaust?
3.  Has anybody else had this problem?  I'd like to hear how you handled
the repairs.
4.  Why the heck did LR put the cat BELOW the frame rails??!?  If I splice
one in, I plan to move it up a few inches so it is out of the way.

As always, thanks in advance for the answers/help/suggestions.
-Bob

  rvirzi@gte.com             Think Globally. ===
  +1(617)466-2881                            === Act Locally!

------------------------------

From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 13:33:28 -0700
Subject: some questions about servicing

Disco-centric, but figuring some of the questions are meaningful to
non-plushies. Was changing some fluids recently:

Bought some various fluids: ATF, 90 weight. I checked the fluids
(having gone deep wading in the Sierra's wading pool recently). It
was what appeared to be milky in the front and rear axles, so I
replaced the fluid in them and the front swivel balls with
Valvoline Synthetic 90w. The Napa guy said this was great stuff and
would mix appropriately with the natural goo.

So my questions are: is it worth putting in synthetic 90w
especially at the price of $10/US quart especially if I am going to
go wading up to my toes. Is this a good price and is Valvoline any
good?

Q2: I wanted to check and replace my transmission fluid and diff
fluid, but I couldn't find a filler hole or check hole even after
looking at my manual (which only said to refill it). How do I check
and fill?

Q3: Having done this work on my back I am considering jack stands.
I have looked at several briefly, and feel nervous to say the
least. I don't particularly relish the idea of becoming driveway
relish. Are these things really that sturdy and who makes good
ones, or are they all the same? Sears?

Q4: Stupid question of the day: I assume there are rear swivels but
is their a need to renew the fluid in the back wheel area or is
that handled by the axle 90w? Also, if that is true, why is it
necessary to fill both the front diff as well as the swivels?

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

------------------------------

From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 13:34:26 -0700
Subject: oil filter input

I went to various parts stores recently to find the various
recommended (by the list) oil filters. The Fram filter book didn't
list the Disco, but the Fram master catalog did and listed a
specific on (which I have forgotten). I looked at the ones
recommended from this list and the Fram master catalog one and they
didn't all match in size. Being the weenie brain that I am, I
decided to keep looking.

I ended up going to a NAPA store. I walk in and explain my travails
to date. He asks which vehicle; I respond with LR DISCO, figuring
like other places, he wouldn't have much of a clue. He comes back
with "oh, that's the 1068", and goes and gets it. I looked at it
and thought, wow, this can't be right, it looks too small. He said
that they wouldn't be able to put it in the book without it being
LR approved and part manufacturer approved to match. He went and
checked the book and he was right on the button. He then proceeded
to show me the cutaways of the competitors and theirs (same as WIX
which apparently is made by gard). What a difference!!! From the
springs to the material of the actual filter to the rubber seals. I
like these Wix/Gard/NAPA parts.

After pointing out that it looked small, he said I could go with a
larger filter but then it wasn't the one listed in the catalog and
recalled that various car manufacturers were not paying on engine
damage if the wrong filter was used. I decided to go with the
recommended on.

Got home and fitted it in without problem: it was the same size
allright.

Sorry for the long wind, but I thought somebody might want to know
about another oil filter: NAPA 1068.

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 13:50:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Transmission Belt Longevity ?

The chain thing in the transfer case began in 1989; before that it was 
inhabited by a gear thing!

Cheers

John Brabyn

On 5 Jun 1996 debrown@srp.gov wrote:

> If I were to guess, (I am) I'd say that the "belt(s?)" that were
> referred to would be the "chain thing" in the transfer case. This would
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 39 lines)]
> Jeff "we don't need no steenkin' bands" Gauvin
> '94 D90

------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: RE: Rattle found.  Yikes!!!
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 14:19:14 -0700

>1.  Anybody have a spare cat hanging around I could buy?
>2.  What do you think my chances are of having a muffler shop like
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>splice
>one in, I plan to move it up a few inches so it is out of the way.

I would hope this to be covered under the warranty. I drove my Jeep
though a stream and [I suspect] shock cooled the cat con (which is
hangin' even lower on a Jeep, than the Disco's does) and it developed
the same type of rattle. I took it in and they replaced it under the 50K
emissions warranty. I would hope that Rover would be AT LEAST as
accomodating as Jeep (maybe you could use this in presenting your case
to them :-)

Good luck!
    _____
   /|__|_\__(|                           Bob Watson
  |   |   |  \                 a-robw@microsoft.com
  |---|___|___\____      Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA 
  |~~_|=  |=  |o_  }\                
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/                            N7UMU
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rbwatson/

>1.  Anybody have a spare cat hanging around I could buy?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 16:52:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: "David C. McCormack" <dmccorma@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Rattle found.  Yikes!!!

Bob,

        Cats are for sale at parts stores as are various diameters if tubing
and adapters (one diameter to another etc.).  I've got to beleive that you
can cut the offending cat out with a hacksaw and splice in a new one using
pipe clamps and what not.   I assume (what do I know?) that you would only
have to find a cat that could handle a four cylinder engine of similar
displacement.

At 03:24 PM 6/5/96 +0100, Bob wrote:
>1.  Anybody have a spare cat hanging around I could buy?
>2.  What do you think my chances are of having a muffler shop like Midas
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>4.  Why the heck did LR put the cat BELOW the frame rails??!?  If I splice
>one in, I plan to move it up a few inches so it is out of the way.

Dave 

David C. McCormack
Hinshaw & Culbertson
175 N. Patrick, Suite 115
Brookfield, WI 53045
(414)792-9150
(414) 792-9154 (fax)
dmccorma@execpc.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 15:06:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: oil filter input

This observation on good cross referencing of filters is consistent with 
my experience of some years ago (1987) when I bought a Volvo diesel.  I 
had a heck of a time identifying an air filter from a non-$Volvo$ source, 
until I happpened to ask at a NAPA store.  "Sure, no problem, here it 
is."  I wonder if they are as good on other RR/Disco/Defender parts as 
well?  Might be worth checking on brakes, thermostats, electrical stuff, 
and the like.  Probably a little weak on running gear.

BTW, anybody out there had any experience with rebuilding the Volvo/VW 6 
cylinder diesel?

Rgds,

Walt          * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 
              * Walter C. Swain         | wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us       *
              * Davis Community Network |                               *
              * Davis, California       | 1988 Range Rover- "Lady Jane" *
              * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

On Wed, 5 Jun 1996, Clayton Kirkwood wrote:

> I ended up going to a NAPA store. I walk in and explain my travails
> to date. He asks which vehicle; I respond with LR DISCO, figuring
> like other places, he wouldn't have much of a clue. He comes back
> with "oh, that's the 1068", and goes and gets it. I looked at it
> and thought, wow, this can't be right, it looks too small. 

etc.

------------------------------

From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 15:19:10 -0700
Subject: Re: oil filter input

On Jun 5,  4:56pm, David C. McCormack wrote:
> Subject: Re: oil filter input
> At 01:34 PM 6/5/96 -0700, Clayton wrote:
> >Sorry for the long wind, but I thought somebody might want to

know
> >about another oil filter: NAPA 1068.
> Clayton,
>         Thanks for the great post.  Are you bothering with the

copper washer
> that LR uses on the drain plug?
> Clayton,

Actually, no. I read about that, and was worried because I had no
idea what size to get or where to get it. When I took the plug off
I saw that it was copper but it looked like it was integrated. So I
didn't worry about it. No detectable leaks yet!

> Dave
> David C. McCormack
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> dmccorma@execpc.com
>-- End of excerpt from David C. McCormack

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 05 Jun 96 16:08:01 MST
Subject: some questions about servicing

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
Lot's of good questions... unfortunately, I'm not quite the total
expert. I can answer at least one though. The rear diff does not have
the swivel balls. Therefore, only has one oil reservoir, one fill place.
The swivel balls allow the front wheels to turn left/right and are
independent from the center, gear section. Thus, 3 sections, and 3
reservoirs and fill points for the front. Hope this makes sense to
you...

As for the synthetic gear lube, I'd say that if you go wading often, and
will be changing the fluid semi-regularly, it'd be a waste of $. The
advantage of the synthetic stuff would be longevity, which is not a
concern if you plan to change regularly-after wading.

Not sure on the transmission fluid check, but every manual trans I've
ever seen had some sort of "plug" in the side of the case, maybe around
4" from the bottom, where the oil level should be. This will either be a
slotted plug, like you'd use a large screwdriver to remove, or a square
hole, that you would use a 1/2" drive ratchet (without a socket) to
remove. This is the same for the rear diff. They (diffs and
trans/x-case) should be filled through this plug to the point at which
when filling, it runs back out of the plug hole. Not quite an exact
science, or clean and tidy process, but that's what Today's engineers
have given us.

As for Jack stands, I'd stay away from the real cheapies. Compare
cheapies with the "better" and "best" ones, and decide by your
impression of strength. I have 4 of the "better" variety. I had some
"cheapie" ones, and had someone drive over one, which flattened it
thoroughly. That's not what I'd feel comfortable with supporting my
vehicle with ME under it. They are all rated with the capacity. Don't
exceed this capacity. (Weight.)

Hey! That's all your questions! I guess I "knew" more than I first let
on!

Good luck!

Dave (the answer man) Brown

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___    before us are tiny matters compared
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}  to what lies within us."
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson
=========================================================================
From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 13:33:28 -0700
Fax: (916) 356-2202
Phone: (916) 356-5838
Address: FM1-58, 1900 Prairie City Road, Folsom, California 95630
X-Mailer: Z-Mail (3.2.1 10apr95)
Subject: some questions about servicing
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Disco-centric, but figuring some of the questions are meaningful to
non-plushies. Was changing some fluids recently:

Bought some various fluids: ATF, 90 weight. I checked the fluids
(having gone deep wading in the Sierra's wading pool recently). It
was what appeared to be milky in the front and rear axles, so I
replaced the fluid in them and the front swivel balls with
Valvoline Synthetic 90w. The Napa guy said this was great stuff and
would mix appropriately with the natural goo.

So my questions are: is it worth putting in synthetic 90w
especially at the price of $10/US quart especially if I am going to
go wading up to my toes. Is this a good price and is Valvoline any
good?

Q2: I wanted to check and replace my transmission fluid and diff
fluid, but I couldn't find a filler hole or check hole even after
looking at my manual (which only said to refill it). How do I check
and fill?

Q3: Having done this work on my back I am considering jack stands.
I have looked at several briefly, and feel nervous to say the
least. I don't particularly relish the idea of becoming driveway
relish. Are these things really that sturdy and who makes good
ones, or are they all the same? Sears?

Q4: Stupid question of the day: I assume there are rear swivels but
is their a need to renew the fluid in the back wheel area or is
that handled by the axle 90w? Also, if that is true, why is it
necessary to fill both the front diff as well as the swivels?

--
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 05 Jun 96 16:15:30 MST
Subject: Re: Transmission Belt Longevity ?

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
I love your sense of humor John, And I received your information on the
winch mount!

I'm overwhelmed at your generosity and the time and effort that you took
to prepare and send your information! I think I must get your book, out
of gratitude, if nothing else!

Thanks SO much for all your effort and the information you have sent.

Yours truly, Naw! That doesn't sound right. How 'bout...

Thankfully yours, Nope! That's not it either. Maybe...

With great appreciation, (Yeah! That's the ticket!) Dave Brown

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___    before us are tiny matters compared
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}  to what lies within us."
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson
=========================================================================
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 13:50:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Cc: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@olympus.co.symbios.com>,
        Range Rover Owners <rro@land-rover.team.net>
Subject: Re: Transmission Belt Longevity ?
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

The chain thing in the transfer case began in 1989; before that it was
inhabited by a gear thing!

Cheers

John Brabyn

On 5 Jun 1996 debrown@srp.gov wrote:

> If I were to guess, (I am) I'd say that the "belt(s?)" that were
> referred to would be the "chain thing" in the transfer case. This would
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 39 lines)]
> Jeff "we don't need no steenkin' bands" Gauvin
> '94 D90

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 05 Jun 96 16:23:14 MST
Subject: Re: oil filter input

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
Speaking of the copper washer on the drain plug... My last oil change it
fell into the drain bucket with the plug. I fished out the plug without
realizing I'd left the copper washer in the oil filled bucket. It wasn't
until the job was all done and I drained the oil bucket into an old milk
jug(s) that I discovered the copper washer. I made sure the plug was as
tight as I dared without stripping the threads. It works, for the most
part, but does have a small drip. I decided that I'd lose more oil in
the process of replacing the washer than I'd lose without it, so it sits
on the high/low shifter boot until the next oil change. I drive a lot of
miles, so that won't take long for me...

Dave (drippy) Brown

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___    before us are tiny matters compared
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}  to what lies within us."
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson
=========================================================================
From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 15:19:10 -0700
        "Re: oil filter input" (Jun  5,  4:56pm)
References: <199606052156.QAA23878@mail.execpc.com>
Fax: (916) 356-2202
Phone: (916) 356-5838
Address: FM1-58, 1900 Prairie City Road, Folsom, California 95630
X-Mailer: Z-Mail (3.2.1 10apr95)
Subject: Re: oil filter input
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

On Jun 5,  4:56pm, David C. McCormack wrote:
> Subject: Re: oil filter input
> At 01:34 PM 6/5/96 -0700, Clayton wrote:
> >Sorry for the long wind, but I thought somebody might want to

know
> >about another oil filter: NAPA 1068.
> Clayton,
>         Thanks for the great post.  Are you bothering with the

copper washer
> that LR uses on the drain plug?
> Clayton,

Actually, no. I read about that, and was worried because I had no
idea what size to get or where to get it. When I took the plug off
I saw that it was copper but it looked like it was integrated. So I
didn't worry about it. No detectable leaks yet!

> Dave
> David C. McCormack
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> dmccorma@execpc.com
>-- End of excerpt from David C. McCormack

--
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

------------------------------

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: RE: some questions about servicing
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 16:34:42 -0700

>Q3: Having done this work on my back I am considering jack stands.
>I have looked at several briefly, and feel nervous to say the
>least. I don't particularly relish the idea of becoming driveway
>relish. Are these things really that sturdy and who makes good
>ones, or are they all the same? Sears?
I use drive up ramps for most (well all, to date) underneath stuff.
Unless you need to remove the tires, these work great, and seem less
wobbley. But don't go cheap. The Disco & RR's are heavy beasts. At a
recent 4x4 demo I was using mine and another fellows as simulated
obstacles (showing off x-axle wheel travel) and I flattened his with the
Disco (oops, sorry!) so caveat emptor. Another advantage of the high
body clearance and 4WD is that you can put them under the back tires
(either facing forward or backwards), or put them on one side or the
other to get at stuff underneath or to pressure wash the gunk off the
bottom components.

Warning/safety tips:

1) use wheel chocks on the "non-elevated" wheels
2) use 4-low LOCK so the parking brake (on the rear drive shaft, if you
recall) will be most effective
3) make sure all is stable before venturing underneath
4) having someone nearby to provide or call for help is handy too (that
and they can hand you things whilst you're underneath).

Happy Trails!
    _____
   /|__|_\__(|                           Bob Watson
  |   |   |  \                 a-robw@microsoft.com
  |---|___|___\____      Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA 
  |~~_|=  |=  |o_  }\                
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/                            N7UMU
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rbwatson/

(either facing forward or backwards), or put them on one side or the

------------------------------

Subject: Re: oil filter input
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 96 16:47:18 -0700
From: Hugo Madden <madhugo@best.com>

>So I
>didn't worry about it. No detectable leaks yet!

No leaks??  Sounds like you have a serious problem!!  Take it straight to 
your dealer and get it fixed!!

                                                        _______
                                                       //_/_|__\___
                                                       \_ - ___ - _d 
                                                         (o)   (o)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jun 96 09:48:52 EST
From: James Carley <carley@manly.civeng.unsw.EDU.AU>
Subject: Re: RR: hub end-play 

At 19:17 4/06/96 -0700, Stephen wrote:
>'90 NAS RR.
>i recently replaced one of my front brake rotors (disk) and did the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>mounting bracket. 
>what do other people do when they have to remove and replace the hub?  

I recently did an overhaul of my 110 front end.
This included new wheel bearings which in hindsight I wouldn't have
bothered with. 

I did it all by the book including using a dial gauge.
However, after a bit of driving the front end felt very sloppy, and
after jacking it up I found lots of play in the wheel bearings, probably
the outer races had not seated properly when installed.  Many other cars
have a torque setting for the hub nut.  I tightened it up just firmer
than finger tight whilst rotating the hub and checked that there was minimal
slop in the bearings.  I've seen dented bearing races from overtightening
without rotation so be mindful.

My method could be a bit dodgy brothers but all seems well, though I think
this discussion will motivate me to recheck with a dial gauge now that 
everything is seated.

James Carley
Sydney, Australia
'85 110

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 16:58:34 -0700
From: "Lee Zeltzer (ISD)" <lzeltzer@isdnet.com>
Subject: Off Road Insurance

After reading the email from Robert A. Virzi and a personal 
very expensive experience I am wondering if anyone knows of any 
insurance that can be purchased to cover damage done on an off road 
adventure?
-- 
Lee Zeltzer, Senior Consultant
Innovative System Design
100 N. Stone Ave. Suite 605
Tucson AZ 85701
(520)791-3323 X 21
http://www.isdnet.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jun 96 10:40:07 EST
From: James Carley <carley@manly.civeng.unsw.EDU.AU>
Subject: Re: Transmission Belt Longevity ?

>> Folks, what is a transmission belt?
>John,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>changing the gears) of the planetary sets. So maybe he is talking about 
>one of these?

NO!
They're talking about toothed rubber camshaft drive belts on LR diesel
engines (especially 200 TDi).

James Carley
Sydney, Australia
'85 110
James Carley
Water Research Laboratory
University of New South Wales
Sydney, Australia

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 20:47:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Transmission Belt Longevity ?

In a message dated 96-06-05 12:54:09 EDT, you write:

>Folks, what is a transmission belt?
>Cheers
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>Cheers
>John

yeah, what he said, just for us silly americans...

John P
D90 for sale.

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 20:47:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Rattle found. Yikes!!! (bad catalyst matrix)

In a message dated 96-06-05 15:39:32 EDT, you write: (and I snipped a lot) 

>Bad news is, and this is bad, replacement cost with labor is $1400.  Yow!
>The truck runs fine, and passed emmissions tests with flying colors even
>though it had the rattle.  The cat is a tin can with a very brittle
ceramic honeycomb in it.   It sounds like sh*t though, and I don't expect
>it to get batter with time.  Which brings me to my questions.
>3.  Has anybody else had this problem?  I'd like to hear how you handled
>the repairs.

I agree, youch, at 1400 buckaroonies.  ( I guess that means you are "out of
warranty")   I have some personal experience with this exact problem.  I
found that the emissions impact is none.  In fact I continued a test program
where I used a VW Jetta that was a "flexible fuel vehicle" (can run on
gasoline, methanol, or any combo... has an inline sensor to detect fuel
compostiion) with a specially formulated formaldehyde reducing catalyst.
 (Problem with running methanol is formaldehyde emissions go way up.)  Midway
thru my program, the car developed a real obnoxious rattle.  We knew
immidiately what it was, the catalyst matrix had broken loose from its
mounting inside the can.  After running some "standard" emission tests, no
difference.  so we continued.  

Later, we drilled a small diameter hole into the can and catalyst matrix, and
then screwed in a long drywall type screw.  This secured the catalyst matrix
enough to prevent the rattle, which was our only goal.  I talked to one of
the chemists involved with producing this exact catalytic converter and
explained what we had done.  No biggee, he claimed.  For the engine size we
were using, at teh very worst, if we destroyed the matrix where the screw had
gone, the catalyst volume was sufficient to mask any deteriorated capability.
 (and when I say "very worst" remember this is engineers talking here, about
the minutia of the problem, in the real world likely NO IMPACT discernable.) 

And that would be the case by my judgement.  Since the catalysts are over
sized to allow "emissions legal" performance at 50,000 miles, and maybe even
100,000 miles (I think it is the 50K mark that OEM manuf are held responsible
for)  even if you put a screw into the converter and destroyed some of the
material, you'd probalby still pass any emisssion tests.  

Personally, I would try to talk Land Rover into fixing the problem under the
emissions warranty, even if your regular warranty is up.   I think it is all
50 states that have an extra bit of emissions warranty going on there.  That
$1400 is too much to expect a new purchaser to come up with becasue of a
singular fault of a catalyst supplier to LR.  I think.  Sheesh, how many
miles on the truck anyway?  50K??

If that doesn't work, and you are really faced with solving the problem on
your own dime.  I would first try my suggestion, drilling and putting a few
screws to secure the matrix.  You can't hurt anything, and if it fails, or if
it develops an exhaust leak, then on to plan two.  Which would be having
Midas splice in a replacement converter.  Nothing wrong with that as long as
the welder does a good job sealing up the joints.  You'd probably hear any
substandard welding via an exhaust leak.  

It kills me to see you have to replace a perfectly good converter simply
becasue the inside lost its mounting.  As another step, you could cut out
that cat and have someone secure the matrix inside to stop vibrating.  Since
you are dealing with a 1400 dollar margin, that's a lotta room to play.  Even
if someone charged you 200 bucks to do it, that'd be a steal.  Find a race
shop, heck, they probalbly remove the catalysts, and cut 'em open and remove
the matrix, then reseal 'em as a matter of course... ha ha.

John.

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 20:47:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Range Rover Temp Guage

In a message dated 96-06-05 13:12:30 EDT, lenagham@bachman.com writes:

>     the temperature needle on my 87 RR never used to go above the 1/4 mark 
>     until the sensor failed and it shot up into the red. I put in a new 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>     sensor and now the needle sits at the 1/2 way mark all the time. 
>     Mike

That is kinda scary isn't it?  THat means you can't really trust the sending
unit to deliver accurate temperatures.  Two different sending units put the
guage at a fourth, and then a half of the guage?

JP, D90
whatever the temp... it's below red is all I care!

------------------------------

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@MICROSOFT.com>
Subject: RE: Transmission Belt Longevity ?
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 17:48:26 -0700

>They're talking about toothed rubber camshaft drive belts on LR diesel
>engines (especially 200 TDi).

So, is this something us V8i types need to worry about or is the
camshaft already gear driven on that? (doesn't the 3.9L have V8i 
pushrod driven rocker arms with the camshaft & [hydraulic?] lifters at
the bottom of the "V" formed by the cylinder banks? I haven't taken mine
apart to see yet :-)
    _____
   /|__|_\__(|                           Bob Watson
  |   |   |  \                 a-robw@microsoft.com
  |---|___|___\____      Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA 
  |~~_|=  |=  |o_  }\                
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/                         3.9L V8i
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rbwatson/

>They're talking about toothed rubber camshaft drive belts on LR diesel

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 23:02:08 -0500
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Re: Rattle found.  Yikes!!!

At 03:24 PM 6/5/96 +0100, you wrote:
>I just had LRMW check out the rattle on my '95 Disco.  It was not something
>as simple as the heat shield, unfortunately, but rather a dinged catalytic
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 46 lines)]
>  rvirzi@gte.com             Think Globally. ===
>  +1(617)466-2881                            === Act Locally!
Bob

A year or so ago my wife backed our van over a big rock and ripped up one of
the exhaust pipes with the attached CAT.  Replacement at the dealer was
about $600, but the dealer recommended a local (Claremont, NH) service
station that makes up their own pipes.  But of course when we needed them
they were closed for 2 weeks for vacation.  So we went the dealer route.

This service station has an excellent reputation for exhaust work in this
area and you may find a similar service station in your area.  Since they
are only a couple of hours from you they may be able to help, Morningside
Service Station, 603-543-3166.  I may have to head over there myself soon to
have some leaks (at joints) checked.

Let me know what you do.

BTW......This should be considered "collision" under your auto insurance
policy. So you may only be out of pocket your deductible and whatever they
depreciate the exhaust system.  Ours was depreciated about $100 for 20,000
miles of use.  What is the life for exhausts, 50,000 miles.

PS...No need to dwell on being off-road when you hit that "road hazard" when
talking to the insurance people..

Jeff Kessler
1994 GMC Safari AWD (wife backed it into a rock)
1988 Range Rover (wife backed it into a car (no damage to the RR))
1986 Isuzu Trooper II (finally sold)(wife twice backed....you get picture)
Newport NH USA   603-863-7883

PS. Don't let my wife know I told.

------------------------------

From: Likerdup@aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 01:43:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Range Rover Temp Guage

This just happened tonight, but I was driving home from work (not even 5
miles) and I noticed that my temp guage was almost at the red mark.  It was
about 55 degrees here in sultry Wisconsin, and pouring rain.  Any ideas on
what the problem might be?

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: Re:Hub end play
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 10:27:57 +-200

James Carley Sydney, Australia wrote:
I did it all by the book including using a dial gauge.
However, after a bit of driving the front end felt very sloppy, and
after jacking it up I found lots of play in the wheel bearings, probably
the outer races had not seated properly when installed.  Many other cars
have a torque setting for the hub nut.  I tightened it up just firmer
than finger tight whilst rotating the hub and checked that there was minimal
slop in the bearings.  I've seen dented bearing races from overtightening
without rotation so be mindful.

My method could be a bit dodgy brothers but all seems well, though I think
this discussion will motivate me to recheck with a dial gauge now that 
everything is seated.

I would like to tell how an old mechanic learned me to do this:
First of all, readjust and fill with grease at least every 2 year,
or 100000Km, what comes first.
Always replace the seal, because if You are not a Prof., You
probably did harm the small lips.
Take the bearings, new or old cleaned with gasoline, fill the
part with all the rollers with a good grease, and mount the hub
carefully, special care must be taken when You push the seal over
the fixed spindle.
Mount the washers and the first nut, then tighten the nut until the
hub can not be turned with one hand (don't be violent). If You
don't have the right spanner, a plumbers adjustable spanner can be
used.
Without loosening, or touching the hub, loose the nut, and retighten
it with Your fingers. Now it should be correct. Place the locking
washer that will be bend over one of the edges, and place the second
nut. Tighten this hard, without moving the first nut, and finish
with bending the locking washer over one of the edges, in a way
that the two nuts are lock together.
Reassemble the rest. The hub should now turn without resistance,
but also without moving if You try to rock it in and out.

This works for me, I do it every spring. The reason for doing it
so often here is that the road authorities are using a lot of salt
during the winter to remove ice, I also often dip the wheel bearings
in water and mud.

Happy Rovering 

Bent Boehlers
110" V8 3.5 STW 1983
86" 2l 1955

------------------------------

From: Chris_Browne@US014-BOSTON-MINET.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM
Date: 06 Jun 96 08:39:31 EDT
Subject: Re[2]: Rattle found.  Yikes!!!

     Bob:
     
     My 95 Disco was in at LRMW just last week, and I complained about 
     the exhaust rattle and also a motor like hum from the right hand 
     side of the car. I had complained about the first item at the 
     7500 mile service and they had tightened up the heat shield. This 
     time they replaced the cat. and both noises have gone. Perhaps 
     they still have my old unit lying around. Your welcome to it! 
     
     Good advice re insurance is good, every insurer hates dealer 
     hourly rates, but with the exception of the deductible you've got 
     a perfect claim. As you are in mass, there will be a surcharge 
     issued by the insurer-surcharge money in Mass is turned over by 
     the insurer to the State who then issues is out to anyone with a 
     safe driver credit.  
     regards
     chris browne
          95 disco

------------------------------

From: Chris_Browne@US014-BOSTON-MINET.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM
Date: 06 Jun 96 08:55:19 EDT
Subject: Re: Off Road Insurance

     

All
I am happily working in the world of insurance, involved mainly in the 
world of claims and loss control, but am very happy to tell you 
all that your regular insurance will cover you for off road damage 
unless you happen to be participating in an off road race 
of something really silly like that. 
Anyone planning on doing the baja race should make sure to get 
special Mexican coverage from your agent!
Happy to try and answer any questions you might have in this field
regards
chris browne CPCU CCLA

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 09:04:59 -0400
Subject: Re: some questions about servicing

>As for the synthetic gear lube, I'd say that if you go wading often, and
>will be changing the fluid semi-regularly, it'd be a waste of $. The
>advantage of the synthetic stuff would be longevity, which is not a
>concern if you plan to change regularly-after wading.

I agree, if in fact you will be changing the gear lube more than the
reccomended intervals. 

 In addition, I would say that from my recent sojourns into minus 25 f%cking
degrees F, that synthetic oil in the engine and synthetic gear lube in both
diffs and xsfer case are worth their weight in Samuel Smiths Brown Ale.   

I remember it very well, I literally could not move with the 90 WT in the
drive train, I really had to slide the clutch get the truck moving.  I
wondered why other cars don't ahve this problem, then I remembered that I
have three times what they have... one rear worn differential compared to 2
fresh ones plus a xsfer case.  

I am sold on synthetics for us coldsters.  I'll put it in whatever I own,
especially in the "get ready for winter" mode!

John P.
WiscoRover

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 09:05:55 -0400
Subject: Re: some questions about servicing

In a message dated 96-06-05 19:40:54 EDT, a-robw@MICROSOFT.com (Robert Watson
(CNA)) writes:

>2) use 4-low LOCK so the parking brake (on the rear drive shaft, if you
>recall) will be most effective

Excellent point to remember, re safety.  Just a little flick of that
wonderful (but expensive) lever.

John P.
D90, the one with four wheel drive.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 08:37:30 -0500 (CDT)
From: "David C. McCormack" <dmccorma@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: oil filter input

        I've bought my first couple filters from my dealer for some assenine
price.  They included a fresh copper compression washer with each filter and
I think each of these cost more than a dollar.  I've put a new one on every
time but wonder why it is necessary.  I've never dealt with another vehicle
that used one.  Also, it sounds like I can just reuse the washer because it
does have a tendency to bind to the plug. (I imagine its purpose is to put a
softer metal between the plug and pan so that one can crank on the plug
without damaging either).

 
At 04:23 PM 6/5/96 MST, Dave wrote:

>Speaking of the copper washer on the drain plug... My last oil change it
>fell into the drain bucket with the plug. I fished out the plug without
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>on the high/low shifter boot until the next oil change. I drive a lot of
>miles, so that won't take long for me...
>Dave (drippy) Brown

Dave

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 49 lines 2360 [forwarded 343 whitespace 530]
 Output: lines 1666 [content 1109  forwarded 166 (cut  177) whitespace 454]

Range Rover & Coil Spung LR Owner Additional Information:

In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved
(by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Useful commands for this are 'index uk-lro-digest' which returns a list of
files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc.

Range Rover World Wide Web Sites start at 
         http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html
(shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html

FAQ:	http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/OVLR/FAQ.4.RangeRover_ClassicUS.html
RoverWeb:		http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/RoverWeb/
Range Rover Register:	http://www.apricot.co.uk/rel3/directory/rrr/index.html
Lloyd's			http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/

If Major Domo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

  -B