The Coil Sprung (Land-Rover) Owner List Daily Digest

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From: nswilson@mcs.com
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 09:06:18 -0500
Subject: RR Leak

The padding under the carpet on the passenger side of my 91 County is 
soaked. 
Problem started a month ago. The AC wasn't working properly so my 
mechanic checked out whether AC condensation may have been getting under 
there. Part of the AC behind the dash was freezing because of a bad temp 
sensor, and he theorized that when it thawed, it melted onto the carpet. 
Well, after AC was "fixed", this problem has recurred.
The TOP of the carpet is dry. It's the pad that's soaked. I surmise the 
water is coming from the bottom up. Pulled out the carpet to look for 
defects in floorboards, and can find none. 
The wetness does not extend past the flat part of the floor (doesn't go 
up towards firewall). No wetness around grommet through to engine 
compartment.
Has anyone had this problem besides me?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 10:45:11 +0100
From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi)
Subject: Re: Rattle found. Yikes!!! (bad catalyst matrix)

>I agree, youch, at 1400 buckaroonies.  ( I guess that means you are "out of
>warranty")

I'm not out of warranty - only 13k on the truck.

Thanks to all for the input on this.  Seems this isn't so uncommon an
occurrence.  Several people wrote to me privately, in addition to the notes
posted to the group, with similar stories, on a variety of trucks and cars.
I do believe that $1400 takes the price prize, though.  :-(

The screw idea isn't so screwy.  I suggested this to the LR mechanic, who
strongly advised against it, saying it would crack and destroy the
remainder of the lattice, which would then proceed to blow out the tailpipi
a piece at a time.  Well, let's say if this turns out to be my expense, I'm
going to try the sheet metal screw first.  Then probably a RR cat which can
be had individually, or some other after market part.  How the heck does
one size a cat, anyway?

The insurance route is interesting, but in MA, as Chris pointed out, a
claim drives up your rates, often negating the claim payout in a couple of
years.

Chris - Your cats are probably gone from LRMW.  The mechanic was telling me
how the cats are coded to the car and all this stuff and must go back to
the factory, yadda yadda yadda.  I guess I don't blame LR for taking $1400
warantee claims seriously.

What's interesting to me is how would one prove whether the cat was wrecked
by the ding or by some other thing (heat shock, say) that would be a
warantee item?  The ding and the rattle are pretty far apart in time, but
how would LR know this?  How could I prove it?  What if it cracked from
cold water spray or a bit of snow?  Damn, its just in a bad place.

Thanks for all the pointers and advice.  Lots of good info in there for me
to chew on.          -Bob

  rvirzi@gte.com             Think Globally. ===
  +1(617)466-2881                            === Act Locally!

------------------------------

From: crash@merl.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 10:46:08 -0400
Subject: The Little Copper Oil-Drain Washer

There are two kinds of those copper washers- one is flat copper 
and *thick*, maybe 2 mm thick.  It's solid copper.  It seals
pretty well but it's rarely perfect.

The other kind is made of thin copper (maybe 22-gauge), formed so
that the washer has a U-shaped cross section.  When you tighten
it down, it scrunches flat and (usually) makes an oiltight seal.
That is, the first time you scrunch it.  After that, it's not
quite as good as the other [solid copper] kind.

The first kind is reusable; the second kind is barely so.  In
a previous lifetime, I found that 20+ oil changes for the thick,
solid kind was not a problem, but the second kind got awfully
chewed up by the fourth or fifth change.

Thus, if you buy LR filters and scrunch washers, be sure to keep
the old ones around because they don't last forever.

Right now I've got a thick solid washer on Sally Xray, and a crankcase
full of Mobil-1 leak-finder^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H motor oil.  It drools 
a bit, but less than the cat does.  :-)

	-Bill Yerazunis

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 09:55:41
From: KAACPA@gnn.com (KEITH ARMSTRONG, CPA)
Subject: Various...

Hi All, 

Several points here:

1. I've used a Fram filter in the disco of late and in the
   3500 for a_long_time now.  I'll check when I go outside,
   but I'm pretty sure that it's a PH-8A.  Now when you look
   at the box it lists a variety of Chrysler and Datsun stuff,
   but it fits, doesn't leak, and is longer than the Land	Rover
   part.

2. The camshaft drive on the V8 is either a double row roller
   chain or a morse chain depending on the age of your V8.
   Need a new one?  Tell the generic auto parts guy that you
   need a chain and gear set for a '62 Buick 215!  Your cam 
   timing will no longer be retarded!

3. Do Not, I repeat Do Not replace your distributor simply due to
   excessive end play.  The driven gear at the base of the          
  distributor is attached with a roll pin.  A typical GM
   maintenence/hot-rod tip is to shim this gear (with shims
   available from your friendly goodwrench guy) to an appropriate
   end-play dimension...sorry, I don't remember right now.  Just 
   tell him its for your Buick V8/V6.  BTW, a Buick HEI will
   fit, but I don't think the Bosch/Lucas/L-Jetronic will like it.

4. Guy's hot start problem might also be due to a failed coolant
   temp sensor.  They fail in the "cold" mode, and therefore 
   energize the cold start injector creating a rich condition 
   that causes hard hot starts.

Finally, is there a list somewhere of the synthetic trans, transfer 
case, axle, swivel housing lubricants that folks have used.  I 
haven't been wading, but it's time to renew these fluids and I just 
know that it's gonna get cold here in Iowa again someday!

Thanks, sorry for the length!
Keith Armstrong

'80 Rover SD-1, '92 Ducati 750ss, '94 Land Rover Discovery

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 10:55:54 -0400
From: Bill Skidmore <skidmore@mitre.org>
Subject: Re: oil filter input

Clayton Kirkwood wrote:
> On Jun 5,  4:56pm, David C. McCormack wrote:
> > Subject: Re: oil filter input
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)]
> I saw that it was copper but it looked like it was integrated. So I
> didn't worry about it. No detectable leaks yet!

The "copper washer" that y'all are referencing is known as a "crush 
ring" or "crush washer".  When brand new, the copper ring is a bit 
thicker, but when placed over the bolt and the bolt is tightened, the 
ring compresses.  It is usually necessary to prevent leaks from around 
the drain plug.  I've often reused them.  Obtain through LR dealer or 
authorized parts reseller.  Maybe through NAPA or other third party 
suppliers.
-- 
Bill Skidmore
Senior Network Systems Engineer
The MITRE Corp.
145 Wyckoff Rd.
Eatontown NJ 07724
skidmore@mitre.org

------------------------------

From: Jim Steinborn <steinbor@CS.ColoState.EDU>
Subject: Discovery - Adding front fog lights
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 09:07:28 -0600 (MDT)

I have a 1996 Discovery SD and was wanting to add front fog lights. 

I purchased the front fog light switch that is used in the SE7 with
factory fog lights. It plugs into a 4-wire connector that supplies the
1: ground (black wire) 2: 12 volts feed from the headlamp circuit
(don't remember the wire color) 3: 6 volt feed from the dashboard
light circuit - so you can see it in the dark with the lights on (red
with brown stripe) and 4: wire going (presumably) to the fog lights
(blue with violet stripe).

Behind each headlamp there is a 2-conductor connector with a black
wire and the blue-with-violet-stripe wire. I am assuming that this
connector is for the (optional) factory fog lights.

Problem: there is no continuity between the blue-with-violet-stripe
wire in the connector at the switch and the same-colored wires in the
connectors behind the headlights. After installing the switch, I
turned on the headlights and the fog light switch. This illuminated
the pilot light in the fog light switch, but there was no voltage at
the connector behind the headlights.

Questions: is there some other piece missing? Perhaps the fog lights
are supposed to have a relay? There is no fuse labeled for front fog
lights. Has anyone added fog lights using the factory switch? Can
anyone shed any light on this matter?

I don't have a shop manual for this car, as LR has not published one
yet. Perhaps someone with a 1995 shop manual could check the wiring
schematics for the existence of a fog light relay or other clues to
this problem.

Thanks

 --
Jim Steinborn                                 ____             AMA OHS
steinbor@cs.colostate.edu                     \  /           AIO NAWCC
http://www.cs.colostate.edu/~steinbor          \/          STOC ST1100

------------------------------

From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 08:26:35 -0700
Subject: Re: The Little Copper Oil-Drain Washer

On Jun 6, 10:46am, crash@merl.com wrote:
> Subject: The Little Copper Oil-Drain Washer
> There are two kinds of those copper washers- one is flat copper
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
> the old ones around because they don't last forever.
> Right now I've got a thick solid washer on Sally Xray, and a
crankcase
> full of Mobil-1 leak-finder^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H motor oil.  It drools
> a bit, but less than the cat does.  :-)
> 	-Bill Yerazunis
>-- End of excerpt from crash@merl.com

Hey Bill,

Great sense of humor. I am still laughing!!!

I must have the thicker washer. As I recall looking at it, it
didn't look concave through the cross section and seemed fairly
thick.

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 11:35:47 -0400
Subject: D90 Rear Door Rattle
From: "Andrew A. Dallas" <adallas@systemsoft.com>

The top hinge on my rear door seems to have a lot of play in it. Whenever 
I go over a small bump, the door rattles rather loudly. When offroading, 
the rattle is really bad. 

I've made sure that this is where the noise is coming from - shaking the 
spare shows that the hinge is the culprit. One can actually see the 
movement in the hinge itself. The only thing I can think of that would 
cause this is a hinge pin that's too small or broken. I've tried 
tightening up the bolt but this makes only a small difference.

Has anyone out there found a solution for this problem? Was there a 
problem with some D90s getting a bad top hinge?

Any advise would be appreciated.
-AD

************************************************************************
 Andrew A. Dallas
 Full Spectrum Software, Inc.
 30 Whittemore Road
 Newton, MA 02158, USA

 (617) 969-7216, On Site Office: (508) 647-2948
 email: adallas@tiac.net, Web Page: http://www.tiac.net/users/adallas/
************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 12:06:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Dinged Catalytic Converter  

>The truck runs fine, and passed emissions tests with flying colors even
>though it had the rattle.  It sounds like sh*t though, and I don't expect
>it to get batter with time.  Which brings me to my questions.

>3.  Has anybody else had this problem?  I'd like to hear how you handled
>the repairs.

I had a similar problem when I was off road in my BMW 535i (well, I was
turning around in the dirt parking area at a friends cabin).  I backed over a
rock the size of a volleyball and smacked the catalytic converter.  The rock
was sharp and tore a small hole in it and broke the spot welds on the heat
shield causing a horrible rattle.  I forget how much the BMW cat cost, but I
think it was around the cost of the Disco's.  I found a piece of scrap sheet
metal down in the basement and covered the hole with it, then I put together
a pair of three of four gates (radiator hose) clamps and wrapped them around
the cat to hold the sheet metal and stop the heat shield from rattling (I
used a socket wrench to make them real tight).  It worked great and cost me
nothing.

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 12:06:06 -0400
Subject: Jack Stands

>Q3: Having done this work on my back I am considering jack stands.
>I have looked at several briefly, and feel nervous to say the
>least. I don't particularly relish the idea of becoming driveway
>relish. Are these things really that sturdy and who makes good
>ones, or are they all the same? Sears?

Land Rovers weigh much more than most other cars, so make sure you are using
top quality jack stands rated for a lot MORE than you are supporting.  

When I was in High School I was helping a friend replace the rear axle on his
Mom's full sized Ford station wagon.  We just got out from under the car when
one of the bent sheet metal jack stands just collapsed.

I went out the next day and bought the biggest heavy duty jack stands Sears
sold.  I also have a pair of super heavy duty ramps.  I use the ramps every
time I don't have to take the wheels off. (4wd low makes it easy to pull on
to the ramps).

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

From: Jim Steinborn <steinbor@CS.ColoState.EDU>
Subject: Discovery - adding front fog lights
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 10:08:03 -0600 (MDT)

(I hope this is not posted twice. I was in the middle of a stupid
attack when I originally posted.)

I have a 1996 Discovery SD and was wanting to add front fog lights. 

I purchased the front fog light switch that is used in the SE7 with
factory fog lights. It plugs into a 4-wire connector that supplies the
1: ground (black wire) 2: 12 volts feed from the headlamp circuit
(don't remember the wire color) 3: 6 volt feed from the dashboard
light circuit - so you can see it in the dark with the lights on (red
with brown stripe) and 4: wire going (presumably) to the fog lights
(blue with violet stripe).

Behind each headlamp there is a 2-conductor connector with a black
wire and the blue-with-violet-stripe wire. I am assuming that this
connector is for the (optional) factory fog lights.

Problem: there is no continuity between the blue-with-violet-stripe
wire in the connector at the switch and the same-colored wires in the
connectors behind the headlights. After installing the switch, I
turned on the headlights and the fog light switch. This illuminated
the pilot light in the fog light switch, but there was no voltage at
the connector behind the headlights.

Questions: is there some other piece missing? Perhaps the fog lights
are supposed to have a relay? There is no fuse labeled for front fog
lights. Has anyone added fog lights using the factory switch? Can
anyone shed any light on this matter?

I don't have a shop manual for this car, as LR has not published one
yet. Perhaps someone with a 1995 shop manual could check the wiring
schematics for the existence of a fog light relay or other clues to
this problem.

Thanks

-- 

Jim Steinborn                                 ____             AMA OHS
steinbor@cs.colostate.edu                     \  /           AIO NAWCC
http://www.cs.colostate.edu/~steinbor          \/          STOC ST1100

------------------------------

From: Chris_Browne@US014-BOSTON-MINET.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM
Date: 06 Jun 96 12:47:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Discovery - Adding front fog lights

     
     Jim
      this very subject is one that I am working as I want to add fog 
     lights to my 95 model. 
     How much do the parts cost, any advice based on your experience 
     is greatly appreciated!
     thanks 
     Chris Browne

------------------------------

From: "Ruffer, Richard" <rufferr@moodys.com>
Subject: RE: D90 Rear Door Rattle
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 96 12:41:00 EDT

Andrew A. Dallas writes:
>The top hinge on my rear door seems to have a lot of play in it. Whenever
>I go over a small bump, the door rattles rather loudly. When offroading,
>the rattle is really bad.

>Has anyone out there found a solution for this problem? Was there a
>problem with some D90s getting a bad top hinge?

The same with mine. Tightening the nut on the bottom of the hinge helped 
some for me. Extending the rubber-capped bolt located in the center of the 
door to put pressure againts the tire carrier made a big difference. 
Although I haven't tried it, what about putting a lot of grease into the 
grease nipple on the hinge? I think it would help (or at least wouldn't 
hurt).

Rich Ruffer
Morristown, NJ
rruffer@interserv.com
'94 D90 #634

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 11:02:59 -0600
From: Chris Brosious <brosious@pogo.den.mmc.com>
Subject: Re: D90 Rear Door Rattle

Andrew A. Dallas wrote:
> The top hinge on my rear door seems to have a lot of play in it. Whenever
> I go over a small bump, the door rattles rather loudly. When offroading,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> Has anyone out there found a solution for this problem? Was there a
> problem with some D90s getting a bad top hinge?

I do not have any rattles on my rear door, but I have noticed that the 
hinge pins themselves tend to rust like crazy, they require reqular 
oiling (every time I change the motor oil, I shoot WD 40 on all the 
hinges), maybe yours have rusted away enough to be loose?

Chris Brosious
'94 D90

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 13:06:31 -0400
Subject: Re: D90 Rear Door Rattle
From: "Andrew A. Dallas" <adallas@systemsoft.com>

>> The top hinge on my rear door seems to have a lot of play in it. Whenever
>> I go over a small bump, the door rattles rather loudly. When offroading,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
>Chris Brosious
>'94 D90

Could be but I've seen almost no rust around the hinges. I think Land 
Rover used different hinges on the '95s than the '94s. I've got a '95 
D90. 

When I tightened the bolt the last time, I could hear a spring tightening 
inside the hinge. I'm hesitant to remove the bolt for fear of not being 
able to reset the spring.

I'll make sure to use some lithium grease on the hinges at my next oil 
change.

-AD

************************************************************************
 Andrew A. Dallas
 Full Spectrum Software, Inc.
 30 Whittemore Road
 Newton, MA 02158, USA

 (617) 969-7216, On Site Office: (508) 647-2948
 email: adallas@tiac.net, Web Page: http://www.tiac.net/users/adallas/
************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jun 96 13:01:19 -0400
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: D90 Tailgate rattle

Andy,

My rear tailgate also rattled badly. Thought it was loose bolts at first 
when I shook the tire. Check behind the tire carrier just to the left of 
the top hinge, there is a small bracket with an adjustable bolt and rubber 
end boot. The rubber boot is supposed to rest up against a small detent in 
the tire carrier upper bar. It takes up any slop in the carrier when the 
door is closed. After I readjusted the bolt for a snug fit (with the door 
closed) the rattle was gone. Have you checked this yet?

Cheers,
Barnett 
95 D90 No rattle, no oil leaks, (yes, it is a Rover :>!)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jun 96 13:19:46 -0400
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: D90 door top storage case

Hi all,
A while back there was a post (I think it was from Sean Murphy) about 
someone making custom heavy duty padded cases for the D90 door tops that 
were superior to the LRNA version.

I am interested in buying one if someone could repost or put me in touch 
with the right person.

Sean was that you?

Cheers,
Barnett.
95 D90  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 12:22:07 -0600
From: Chris Brosious <brosious@pogo.den.mmc.com>
Subject: Re: D90 Door Top Storage Cases

barnett childress wrote:
> Hi all,
> A while back there was a post (I think it was from Sean Murphy) about
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> Barnett.
> 95 D90
Barnett,

I saved the post:

From: Modern@learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P. Murphy)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 17:51:56 -0400
Subject: Door Top Cases!

One of our club members in SOLAROS is manufacturing heavy-duty padded
cases for the doortops on series vehicles and D90's.  The case is heavy
nylon with strap-down point across the back, big zippers, a pocket for
tools & fittings, and thick foam padding (unlike the Land Rover
version).  These things are very nice and allow you to take the tops
off and carry them with you greenlaning without worry of breaking your
doortops.  He is looking for between $120 and $140 for them, depending
on how many people are interested in them.  If anyone would be
interested, drop me mail and I'll put you in touch (he doesn't have net
access).

I too would be interested in the cases

Chris Brosious
'94 D90 - Maybe I should put on rust free '95 hinges?'

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 14:35:28 -0400
Subject: Re: D90 Tailgate rattle
From: "Andrew A. Dallas" <adallas@systemsoft.com>

>My rear tailgate also rattled badly. Thought it was loose bolts at first 
>when I shook the tire. Check behind the tire carrier just to the left of 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>closed) the rattle was gone. Have you checked this yet?
>Barnett 

Yep. I already checked that culprit. The bolt is extended to it's maximum 
length so the maximum ammount of pressure is being put on the tire 
carrier. The last time I adjusted this, it did seem to help but not this 
time. Maybe the metal in the hinge is stretching from the pressure bolt.
-AD

************************************************************************
 Andrew A. Dallas
 Full Spectrum Software, Inc.
 30 Whittemore Road
 Newton, MA 02158, USA

 (617) 969-7216, On Site Office: (508) 647-2948
 email: adallas@tiac.net, Web Page: http://www.tiac.net/users/adallas/
************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu,  6 Jun 1996 16:13:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jon R Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: D90 Door Top Storage Cases

>Subject: Door Top Cases!
>One of our club members in SOLAROS is manufacturing heavy-duty padded
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>on how many people are interested in them.  If anyone would be
>interested, drop me mail and I'll put you in touch (he doesn't have net
>access).
 
On my 67 llA I cut two 3' pieces of wolmanized 4x4 and bored (2) 5/8"
holes for the proper spacing of the studs. Then joined the two 4x4s with
(2) 6" long pieces of 1x3.
Take the door tops off and insert the studs in the holes. The door tops
stand there nicely and don't tip over even over rough ground or going up
steep hills.
Works pretty slick and it's cheap.
Jon

------------------------------

From: lenagham@bachman.com
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 96 16:17:47 EST
Subject: Re: RR Leak

     I had a problem on my 87 RR where the passenger side pad would keep 
     getting wet. I eventually traced the problem to a leak at the top of 
     the dash panel (bulkhead). To fix it I had to remove the cowling 
     between the windscreen and hood, this necessitates removing the hood 
     and wiper fixings. There is a seam where the bulkhead attaches to 
     other body pieces and water was getting in there. A pain in the neck 
     to fix but hopefully worth it in the long run.
     
     To see if this is your problem - remove the carpet and padding and 
     have someone pour water into the cowling area - try the holes where 
     the hinges for the hood go into it. Watch for water coming in inside.
     
     Mike

> Subject: RR Leak
> Author:  nswilson@mcs.com at inetmail

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)]
> compartment.
> Has anyone had this problem besides me?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 19:14:31 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Peeling dashes

Whilst picking the Discovery up from its 15,000 mile service, I enquired 
about the peeling dash.  About 4" near the instrument binacle is starting to 
separate from the sunstrate.  Curiously, another Disco was in the garage 
having that work done and the local dealership (a small one) reported "4 or 
5" other such problems.

I was able to pick up the old dash and check out its interior.  There is 
*no* residual adhesive between the foam/vinyl covering and the rigid plastic 
form.  None.  The service techs thought it was either an exceedingly poor 
assembly job or a catastrophic failure of the adhesive.  As no adhesive 
could be found, the former was suspected.

Anyway, it is covered under warranty...and it takes about *two days* of 
labor to do the swap.  Cheers

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 16:55:42 +0100
From: parch@smmff.com (Paul Archibald)
Subject: Re: replace the cat conv.--Midas

Bob,
I believe it was Geoff Jackson that had his  mid exhaust section I believe
including the cat. I think it was mentioned in the Aluminum Workhorse last
issue replaced by Midas, said it was much cheaper- works just as
good.........let me look for it....
 " I had to replace the "Y" pipe (with the 2 different size catalytic
converters on it). Retail price at a dealer was around $1,300! Once
again MIDAS came up with the goods. It still cost $800 installed, but it
appears they are making their own versions in Los Angeles and shipping
them as needed."--Geoff Jackson
OK I was wrong.  it will be in the next issue of the AW which is supposed
to come out soon.  but apparently Midas has the goods. I was looking at mt
exhaust the other day and noticed that the right cat was not the typical
Land-Rover "can" type and it appeared to have been added later(different
colored metal deffinately welded in at a later date) apparently someone
else had your same problem, so give Midas a call.
 Paul

Paul Archibald
Parch9@aol.com
'58 SII 88 2-litre RHD
'87 Range Rover

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 22:29:12 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: July 4th Rover Rally

Dear All,
        One more time in case somebody missed it...
        DownEast/ July 4th Land Rover Rally, here in Mid-Coast Maine, info.
brochures with directions, times, events, places, campgrounds, etc. is
ready to go.
        Anyone interested in coming, especially to the Off Road Day, should
call or email me so they can get on the RSVP list, and get the info.

        July 5, Jeff Aronson Rovers North editor hosts a walking tour of
Vinalhaven island.
        July 6, ECR's Off Road Day. Closed course off road for all
abilities. Huge BBQ, Rovers North Off Road School will be there for
demonstrations and tips. Rover balancing obstacle, water, mud, rocks,
trees, etc. New longer course this year. 5.00 per head for the day. Course
has various obstacles and options from easy and non damaging for the
beginer to more difficult stuff for the seasoned, all are welcome from the
newest Disco to the oldest SI.
        July 7, DownEast VIII, Rover Rally at the Owl's head Transportation
Museum. Proving to be the largest gathering of Rovers in the East, 120 last
year, more alreay confirmed for this year! All types of Rovers, as well as
a great militray Air show, and military vehicle show as well. FREE to those
who arrive in Rovers.
        Common campground for Rover fans, dinners, lots more...
        Thanks hope to see you all there!

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 22:35:13 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Washers and nuts

WRT the thread on copper drain plug washers, I can't recall *ever* replacing 
the one on my 1972 88 (owned since new).  I *might* have replaced it when I 
rebuilt the motor in '88, but I'm not sure....  I could be original.

Does anyone know the size of the hub nut on Discoverys?  Will the standard 
series-sized socket (2 1/8" I think) fit?  Are bearings or oil seals 
interchangeable.  Cheers

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 22:43:39 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Bounces

Does anyone else get bounces when posting to thr RRO digest?  For each 
message I post, I'll get three or four return messages with "unrecoverable 
errors," "mailbox full" or other such mail failures but listing six or eight 
separate subscribers in each.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 19:54:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: Bounces

On Thu, 6 Jun 1996, Alexander P. Grice wrote:

> Does anyone else get bounces when posting to thr RRO digest?  For each 
> message I post, I'll get three or four return messages with "unrecoverable 
> errors," "mailbox full" or other such mail failures but listing six or eight 
> separate subscribers in each.

Sounds like SOP to me.  I contacted several of these addresses and was
generally told that they were not aware of any problems (clueless?.  But
it seems like the same ones always appear.  I can't help but wonder if
they are both receiving and rejecting. Finally decided it was easier to 
delete than to worry and fret about it.

Rgds,

Walt          * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 
              * Walter C. Swain         | wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us       *
              * Davis Community Network |                               *
              * Davis, California       | 1988 Range Rover- "Lady Jane" *
              * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 00:29:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Bounces

In a message dated 96-06-06 22:54:04 EDT, you write:

>Does anyone else get bounces when posting to thr RRO digest?

Yup, I do too.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 01:00:52 -0500
From: mcgee@cris.com.
Subject: "CHIRPING" noise in RR

Over the past 1000 miles or so the RR has developed what (I hope) is minor
but annoying habit of emitting an electronic sound, something akin to a
cross between a "CHIRP" or a "CLUCK".  It usually happens only when I lift
up off the throttle and also only at speeds below 40mph; and sometimes also
when I hit a bump.  The sound sounds identical to the tone given off when
the transfer case is not engaged (between positions). I get the same sound
if I "jiggle" the t. case selector even when it's in position.

Is this just another small thing or the symptom of a weak transfer case or
another big $$$$$$ problem?

Also, has anyone else had their turn signal indicator fail to hold until
the wheel is over about 1/4 turn.  Left side works fine; right side just
won't hold.  The local LR dealer (in Milwaukee) advises that while its
probably just a bad spring, there is no alternative but to fit a whole new
turn signal unit ($100+). True?

Sorry to bother the list with such minor stuff. I LOVE the RR but the sum
of "minor" problems seems overwhelming at times.

I'm determined to fight back and win!

Tom McGee
Racine, WI
'87 RR  90K miles

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 10:07:39 +0200
From: Christophe Girardey <girardey@montrouge.ts.slb.com>
Subject: Transmission Belt !!!

Hi all,

OK, OK... I've made a gross mistake which had made laugth the 
entire LRO list subscribers...Fine, it make me laught myself !!!

Sorry, I wanted to speak about distribution belt, but I'm not 
sure that the term is exact, so in French 'Courroie de 
Distribution'.

Nervertheless, my question is the same, Should I have to change 
it quickly or not ? 

Thanks.
--
Christophe GIRARDEY ( Le Mée - France )
'92 Discovery with 200 TDi engine (75000 Km)
Software Developper (Free-lance)
Internet   : girardey@montrouge.ts.slb.com
Compuserve : 100600.2265@compuserve.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 10:10:55 +0100 (BST)
From: "T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: D90 rear door hinges

Andrew A. Dallas writes:
>The top hinge on my rear door seems to have a lot of play in it. Whenever
>I go over a small bump, the door rattles rather loudly. When offroading,
>the rattle is really bad.

>Has anyone out there found a solution for this problem? Was there a
>problem with some D90s getting a bad top hinge?

What sort of hinges does the N. American 90 have on the back door? Are they
different from the brass ball hinges found on Series vehicles & UK 90's? (I
heard mention of a grease nipple!?!)

 Tom
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Thomas D.I. Stevenson                          gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
SNL Mussel Fouling Project
University Marine Biological Station,      Tel 01475 530581
Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland.       Fax 01475 530601
-----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 07:08:38 -0500
From: Bill Skidmore <skidmore@monmouth.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission Belt !!!

Christophe Girardey wrote:
> =

> Hi all,
> =

> OK, OK... I've made a gross mistake which had made laugth the
> entire LRO list subscribers...Fine, it make me laught myself !!!
> =

> Sorry, I wanted to speak about distribution belt, but I'm not
> sure that the term is exact, so in French 'Courroie de
> Distribution'.
> =

> Nervertheless, my question is the same, Should I have to change
> it quickly or not ?
> =

> Thanks.
> --
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> Internet   : girardey@montrouge.ts.slb.com
> Compuserve : 100600.2265@compuserve.com
If this is a timing belt, as some have suggested (sorry, french is =

one language I DID NOT come to grips with), 50K Miles is reasonable.

------------------------------

Date: 07 Jun 96 07:44:12 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Re: Transmission Belt Longevity ?

>> They're talking about toothed rubber camshaft drive belts on LR diesel
>> engines (especially 200 TDi).

Correct, and those flimsy things should be thrown out at 50,000 *km*
(not miles) the very latest. Slippage of those things can result in
instant terminal engine damage.

> So, is this something us V8i types need to worry about or is the
> camshaft already gear driven on that? (doesn't the 3.9L have V8i
> pushrod driven rocker arms with the camshaft & [hydraulic?] lifters at
> the bottom of the "V" formed by the cylinder banks? I haven't taken mine
> apart to see yet :-)

The V8 thankfully has a very massive chain instead of a rubber band to drive
the camshaft. The cams will go long before the chain will, so no need
to worry (proper lubrication and oil change assumed, of course...)

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: 07 Jun 96 07:42:08 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Re: Jaguar... Lucas related...

> Anyway, I've decided that after I sell the Brooklyn Bridge a couple times,
> I'm gonna own a D90, a RR, and a Jaguar.  Summer is for the Jag and D90, rain
> and shine respectively, and winter is for the RR.

Ahem... er, would RR be Range Rover or Rolls Royce, Sir?

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: Chris_Browne@US014-BOSTON-MINET.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM
Date: 07 Jun 96 08:40:35 EDT
Subject: Re[2]: Jaguar... Lucas related...

     

     
> Anyway, I've decided that after I sell the Brooklyn Bridge a couple times, 
> I'm gonna own a D90, a RR, and a Jaguar.  Summer is for the Jag and D90, 
rain
> and shine respectively, and winter is for the RR.
     
Ahem... er, would RR be Range Rover or Rolls Royce, Sir?
     
** Pardon me but do you have any Gray Poupon?

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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