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The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
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From: "E D O'BRIEN" <bt5179@qmw.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 1996 11:37:43 GMT0BST
Subject: relays
Does anyoneknow where I can lay my grubby paws on some 12V relays,
suitable for running halogen headlights and powerful horns and so on
off? I reckon these are necessary because the wiring on my old SIIA
is getting a bit dodgy, and someone suggested that my halogens might
work better if I used relays. Is there a kit or something that I can
get, or do I need to make up the circuitry myself?
Ed.O'Brien (1963 SIIA SWB)
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Date: Wed, 21 Feb 1996 11:53:52 +0000
From: Michael Turpin <ccaamet@ucl.ac.uk>
Subject: LRO's Drive Train
Hi,
has anyone noticed the e-mail address at the end of 'Drive Train' in Land
Rover Owner International? Well I thought I'd give it a go, I actually sent
the same message to this list, regarding speakers in a 110. A week later,
lots of useful info. from this list, but nothing from LRO. Must be pretty
busy, I thought; I'll leave it a while longer. Two weeks later, still
nothing, so I re-sent it just in case it got lost. Couple of days later, a
postcard turns up saying Thanks for your letter, we hope to use it in Drive
Train in a future issue!
I didn't want it published, I just wanted some advise!
Anyway, thanks to those of you who replied to my message, very useful.
Cheers
Mike
____________________________________________________________________________
Michael Turpin
Network Operations Section,
Network Group,
Information Systems Division,
Kathleen Lonsdale Building,
University College London,
Gower Street,
WC1E 6BT.
E-Mail: m.turpin@ucl.ac.uk Tel: 0171-380-7828
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From: me92pem@brunel.ac.uk
Subject: Problems
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 1996 12:36:36 +0000 (GMT)
I have just fitted a temp. gauge to my S11 complete with voltage reg. While the heater
seems reasonably good the gauge barely makes it above the C portion of the gauge.
I have compares this to a friend's S111 and this, as well as warming up very quickly
the gauge reads just below the red when the engine is running at speed and in the high
region of normal when trundeling around town. The question is which one, if either, is
correct, and what could be wrong with either or both if they are wrong? Both have the
thrusting, over powered 2.25 diesel engines fitted, with the mechanical fans still in
place.
Also would the 750x16R tyres make any difference to the turning circle? I have them fitted on LWB rims that are offset towards the inside allowing the swivels to rotate to their
limits. Stuart's S111 (on 205x16R's) seems to be able to turn on a fivepence, well
in comparison anyway!!!
Any help much appreciated,
Cheerz 'en anon,
PPPPP EEEEE RRRRR CCCC
PP P EE RR R CC C
PP PP EEEE RR RR CC
PP EE RR RR CC C
PP EEEEE RR RR CCCC
-----------------------------------------------------
Drink zcrump, Smoke bunnies, Eat lard, Live forever.
-----------------------------------------------------
Don't be a stick in the mud, be a
LAND-
-ROVER owner.
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Date: Wed, 21 Feb 1996 07:51:46 EST
From: steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com
Subject: Missing Thermostats
From: Steve Reddock
Subject: Missing Thermostats
Hi,
The missing thermostat will cause the engine to run cold initially. The
warm up time will be very long because as you said the engine will
always be cooled.
However, once fully warm the engine could well overheat as the flow rate
of the water through the system will be higher than designed as the
restriction of the thermostat will not be there. The water will not spend
enough time in the rad to be cooled and will gradually overheat, even at
high road speed where cooling is not normally a problem.
A fully open thermostat probably blocks off half of the pipe.
In this weather the dangers of overheating due to no thermostat are
minimal in normal driving.
Apart from that you need all the heat from your heater ASAP at the mo!
Cheers, Steve
Steve Reddock, Xyratex | Just as he thought he had
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450 | clinched the interview he was
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P) | visited by the ghost of Usenet
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com | Postings Past.
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Date: Wed, 21 Feb 1996 14:03:26 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Problems
>I have just fitted a temp. gauge to my S11 complete with voltage reg.
>While the heater
>seems reasonably good the gauge barely makes it above the C portion of the
>gauge.
That's an easy one,happened to me.The transmitter in the block is the wrong
one.Too short physically.Made for wimpy little petrol engines.If you look
you'll see that the "bulb" bit of the sensor doesnt actually poke down any
further than the casting.ie It doesnt sit *in* the waterway,so doesnt have
any surface area in contact with the water,except the end of the bulb.
Get a proper one,which should be longer and your troubles should be over.
If you like,you could first check the gauge by earthing the lead on the
transmitter.Just yank it off and hold it on the block.The gauge should
go full scale.
The other one sounds like water pump/partially blocked rad/head gasket.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Mike Rooth
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Date: 21 Feb 96 11:14:19 EST
From: <Glen_Rees@parlon2.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: LRO e:mail
On a similar thread to Mike's, I sent an e:mail on the 13 Dec. 1995.
The reply printed below arrived on 12 Feb.1996
> Thanks for your offer of help with the greenlaning day which has
> been passed to Andy Bush. Good Luck.
> --
> Land Rover Owner magazine
I copied the note to Andy at the time, and got a reply by return.
What a way to run a comic!!
R 1 3 H
+--|--| FWD |
2 4 L '55 Series One
(25 YEAR TAX EXEMPT)
Glenn
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Date: Wed, 21 Feb 1996 16:45:53 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: LRO e:mail
> On a similar thread to Mike's, I sent an e:mail on the 13 Dec. 1995.
> The reply printed below arrived on 12 Feb.1996
12th Feb seems a popular date.I got a reply on the same date,to something
I wrote to them so long ago,I've forgotten what it was!The reply didnt
help either,it just said thanks for your comments.
Cheers
Mike Rooth
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Date: Wed, 21 Feb 1996 12:32:33 EST
From: steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com
Subject: relays
From: Steve Reddock
Subject: relays
|Does anyoneknow where I can lay my grubby paws on some 12V relays,
|suitable for running halogen headlights and powerful horns and so on
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
|get, or do I need to make up the circuitry myself?
|Ed.O'Brien (1963 SIIA SWB)
Hi Ed, any old car accessory shop will have these. The easiest way to do
it is get fused relays (the fuse sits in the top of the relay). 2x100
watt headlamps need 17A. 2x55 watt headlamps need 10A.
Air horns need 30A (mine do).
I would replace all the wiring which will be carrying current as the old
stuff is probably in pretty poor condition. The wire from the switch
could be left if it seems OK as it will no longer carry much current.
The circuitry is quite simple - there should be a diag on the relay box.
The live will run to the switch at present then to the headlamps. Simply
intercept the wire to the lamps and feed it to the switching part of the
relay (marked as a coil on the box diag). The other end of the coily bit
goes to earth. This is low current stuff.
Then take a live feed from somewhere, solenoid, battery or fusebox.
Doesn't really matter where, just make sure it can handle the current.
Run this to the fuse side of the switch on the relay diag. The other
side of the switch goes to the headlamps. Then attach the earth side of
the bulb a good earth - cleaned chassis (ie no paint!) is the best.
The same should be done for main beam as well.
If you are short of a local supplier Merv plastics in Nottingham (0117
9222783) aren't bad, they have a catalogue and will sell wire by the
metre. Their prices aren't bad for most things, but they aren't the
cheapest either. Buy the halogens from Paddocks or similar though.
With good wiring and halogens you will feel like you have just
had two thick cataracts removed!
One thing to be aware of is that halogens can fill up with mud when
you go wading! Put the sealed beams back in for this.
NB 100 watt main beam is illegal for road use, but if you fit legal
dip bulbs (ie 55/100 bulbs) no one will know as you dip your lights
for oncomming traffic.
Remember to disconnect the battery negative first (er is your's
+ve earth? If it is disconnect positive!). If you are unsure
about this (I assume from your note that you aren't overly
confident, which is why I have explained in some detail) then get
someone who knows to check as a wiring loom fire is messy and
expensive!
Have fun, Steve
Steve Reddock, Xyratex | Just as he thought he had
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450 | clinched the interview he was
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P) | visited by the ghost of Usenet
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com | Postings Past.
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Date: Wed, 21 Feb 1996 09:24:29 +0000
From: Ian Robinson <ian@fourx4.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Unlocking the central diff-lock
In message <34@bbchw.demon.co.uk>, Gerald Tan <gtan@bbchw.demon.co.uk>
writes
>As taught to me by the Land Rover Experience tutor:
Who ?
>When trying to dis-engage the central diff, you move the lever to "unlock", and
>the diff lock light still stays on. This is because the diff lock components are
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
>Somewhere in that free-travel, the diff-lock pin will find equilibrium, and
>pop-out. It normally works after 3 attempts.
The mind boggles. All list readers should ALWAYS follow this advice and
keep my signature handy....we do very reasonable recoveries !!!!!
>When trying to dis-engage the central diff, you move the lever to "unlock", and
Regards, Ian
Forest Landrovers' 4 x 4 Centre
Royal Forest of Dean, Glos, UK
+44 (0)1594 822606/(0)402 000132
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From: Mike <MIKE@vrsolns.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 1996 14:45:50 BST
Subject: Re: Missing Thermostats
> However, once fully warm the engine could well overheat as the flow rate
> of the water through the system will be higher than designed as the
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> enough time in the rad to be cooled and will gradually overheat, even at
> high road speed where cooling is not normally a problem.
Is it suggested that the flow rate will cause sufficient turbulence
to prevent the coolant from being in contact with the heat transfer
surfaces? - What a load of rubbish!================================
Mike Gavins
VR Solutions Ltd
University Road
Salford
M5 4PP
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 161 745 7384
Fax: +44 161 745 8264
Email: m.gavins@vrsolns.co.uk
================================
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Date: Wed, 21 Feb 1996 12:43:35 GMT
From: Gerald Tan <gtan@bbchw.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Unlocking the central diff-lock
In your message dated Wednesday 21, February 1996 you wrote :
> The mind boggles. All list readers should ALWAYS follow this advice and
> keep my signature handy....we do very reasonable recoveries !!!!!
> Regards, Ian
It does work, 'onest guv. I use it all the time!. As I said (name droppin 'ere)
I wuz going round the LR track at Eastnor Castle, and this is how the instructor
demonstarted the technique (BTW it doesn't work for Series LR's as they 'aven't
a central diff).
Gerald.
--
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Gerald Tan EMail gtan@bbchw.demon.co.uk |
| Purely my own opinions - not those of my employer |
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From: azw@aber.ac.uk
Subject: Re: Missing Thermostats
Date: Thu, 22 Feb 1996 08:34:16 UNDEFINED
|The missing thermostat will cause the engine to run cold initially. The
|warm up time will be very long because as you said the engine will
|always be cooled.
OK.
|However, once fully warm the engine could well overheat as the flow rate
|of the water through the system will be higher than designed as the
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
|enough time in the rad to be cooled and will gradually overheat, even at
|high road speed where cooling is not normally a problem.
Explain this. Seems to me a high flow either leaves heat transfer the same or
increses it (depending on how efficiennt it was in the fiirst place....) How
can it reduce it? The overall heat flow thru the radiator will be AT LEAST
what it is with the stat. individual lumps of water wont spend so much time
in the rad, but more lumps will pass per second.
|In this weather the dangers of overheating due to no thermostat are
|minimal in normal driving.
With my 2.5 diesel I can put my hand on the block when it's 'fullly warm' most
of the year........
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END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST
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