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From: CJ BETTON N9203387 <n9203387@hud.ac.uk>
Subject: Dead UJ? (Urgent).
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 96 09:18:00 gmt

Hello all,

I was wondering if someone could confirm my diagnosis before 5pm today, so 
that if I'm right I can buy the new bits.

For the past few days I've had a new noise develop, it's a bit like when you 
have grit in the brake drums, but more metallic. Then, driving into uni 
today, a vibration has developed that shakes the entire vehicle. This only 
occurs on acceleration, and not on overrun. Sudden application of right foot 
also cause a metallic clonk.

Am I right in thinking it's a dead propshaft UJ?

Thanks in anticipation,
Chris.

1961 SIIA SWB,
Tax exempt (Alleged),
Turner Leadfree head,
Overdrive,
Assorted worn out parts.

------------------------------

From: "Paul Hazell" <p.hazell@worc.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 09:31:00 +0000
Subject:       Re: cold engine problems

Graeme Booth wrote:

>I opted for a new carburettor (Weber 34ich from
>Craddocks, or was that Paddocks!) for 50 quid (including choke cable,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>After replacing the old one, let me just say that the difference was
>incredible!
Snip.

Graeme,

Tempting just to change the carb. I've heard mixed things about the Weber though. 
Unfortunatly money is a bit tight at the moment:-(

I thought I may just get the Zenith overhaul kit (about 20 quid). But I'm wondering how 
much setting up the carb might require when refitted (don't have the timing equipment). 

Any thoughts out there?

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 04:27:01 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: cold engine problems

*** Resending note of 03/06/96 16:12
|However, (and this may or may not be related) when the engine
|is switched off it is prone to running on for a second or so,
|particularly after working fairly hard.
  
|I've been told the cold start problem could be anything from a coked up
|engine (this is quite likely at 24yrs old) to my carb needing an
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
|I get "stuck in".
|Paul Hazell
  
Could be all sorts of things.  As has been suggested check the cheap
simple things first, like plugs, points and timing.
  
The running on may be the same problem, it may not.  It could run on
because the engine is running rich (are the plugs black?) as this
causes carbon build up which can cause hot spots which will cause
running on after the engine gets hot.  If it is running that rich
it will probably foul the plugs, which will stop it starting from
cold.
  
The converse is also true.  If it runs lean it will overheat the
head and this will cause running on.  It will also cause cold starting
problems.  The plugs look glazed I think for this - look at the pics
in the Haynes manual.
  
The cause of either mixture error could be a faulty carb.  It it's
running lean it could be (partially) blocked fuel filter, clogged
air filter, leaking carb to manifold gasket as well.
  
If the plugs are the wrong grade ie BP4ES rather than BP5ES they will
cause running on, but shouldn't effect cold starting.
  
The number in plugs is the temperature of the plug.  With NGK the higher
the number the hotter they like to run.  If it runs on with no other
problems going up a grade to a BP6 may well cure it.  It did on my
Metro.
  
With champion plugs the numbers go the other way!  I think a 12 is the
same as an NGK6 and an 11 the same as a 7, etc.
  
If the plug is too hot a grade it will make cold starting harder though.
  
If the mixture or timing is out I would seriously consider a professional
tune up.  I have tried in the past to tune cars myself and I have always
found the results given by a crypton machine far better than I could
manage with a colourtune.  The savings in fuel have always paid for
the cost of the tune.  That even goes for 80 pound rolling road tune
up, which you would only need if you have modified the engine.
  
If you do replace the card with a weber remember that it gives better
economy by strangling the engine so you floor it more so you burn more
fuel...
  
Hope this helps, Steve
  

------------------------------

From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: cold engine problems
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 09:51:00 +0000 (GMT)

My old 2.25 used to run on like after a hard run as well. I found that
letting it idle for a minute or two before switching off prevented it.
Carbon in the combustion chamber can cause running on; the hot bits of
carbon act as tiny glow plugs and ignite fuel still coming into the
engine. Some Zenith carbs have a fuel shut-off solenoid to prevent
running on.
With all the worn out Zeniths I've had, the major problem has been the
throttle spindle wearing away the cast body where it passes through on
the operating lever side. Unless you can rebush this properly, an
overhaul kit won't help.
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(01475) 530581  Fax:(01475) 530601

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 04:08:46 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Re: Rear leaf springs

*** Resending note of 06/03/96 17:11
Geoff suggested:
|Well consider the springs that are fitted to the Stage 1 V8. Are they a
|different part number?. (perhaps yours is a SWB). Can they be fitted?.
|If they can take a V8 then the V6 should not be all that different
|(roughly speaking).
  
This is a good idea as LWB springs are rising rate so make unladen
travel much more comfortable.
  
When my springs need replacing I will fit LWB rear ones.
  
Cheers, Steve
  

------------------------------

From: PETER ESTIBEIRO - CGR <PETERE@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Thu, 7 Mar 1996 10:26:58 +0000
Subject:       Re:Sleeping on an  Africa Expedition

Hi All
I'm new to the list, I just subscribed yesterday.  On the subject of 
tents, although I have a two man hiking tent and a caranex which I 
use as appropriate, I have always fancied a roof-tent.  It might be 
possible to have the best of both worlds.  Fix a board onto a 
full-length roofrack and put anchor points on it to pitch a small 
tent.  Then you can use the tent either on the roof of the landrover 
or, if necessary, on the ground.  I've never tried this but is there 
any reason why it wouldn't work?  In the morning you could just 
de-tension the tent and collapse it then tie it down.  It would be 
very quick to re-erect just by tightening lines/straps.
I have a full-length roof-rack with access ladder for a 109 which I 
want to sell if anyone wants to make a tent platform.......:-]
Cheers
Peter

------------------------------

From: PETER ESTIBEIRO - CGR <PETERE@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Thu, 7 Mar 1996 10:36:13 +0000
Subject:       Re: cold engine problems

Paul
I think feb issue of LROI tells you how to overhaul and set up a 
zenith.  You dont need any special tools.  I can send you a photocopy 
if you cant find it.  You can also buy a recon Zenith for about the 
same price as a Weber.
Hope this helps
Peter.

------------------------------

From: "E D O'BRIEN" <bt5179@qmw.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 11:36:42 GMT0BST
Subject: Over-drive-units

Hello everybody

I'm sure that alot or you out there have over drive units what I need 
to know is: what would the fuel saving be if I fitted one to my 1963 
SWB SIIA? as this seems to be the next logical upgrade after fitting 
free wheel hubs. also are there any major draw backs in using an 
O.D.? and thirdly and most importantly is it possible to get one 
second hand that isn't going to die and take my LR with it. If second 
hand units are available where would I look for one and what sort of 
price would I expect to shell out for one? also are they the sort of 
things that wear out? and if so what do I look for in a good one?

sorry loads of questions but it would be greatly appreciated if 
someone could help.

Ed.(SIIA SWB 1963)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 08:27:26 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Dead UJ? (Urgent).

*** Resending note of 07/03/96 10:09
/internet
/to n9203387@hud.ac.uk
/end
Chris, I'll send this direct & to the list incase the list copy is
delayed.
|Am I right in thinking it's a dead propshaft UJ?
  
Quite possibly.  The best way to check is grab the prop and try to
twist.  If there is any play in the joints it will be visible.
  
There may be a little play which can be felt, but not seen.  I have
a UJ in this state and although it may be on it's way out it doesn't
seem to cause a problem.
  
It is important that there is no tension in the prop shaft as you do
this.  Ideally jack up & support on axle stands (you will need to lie
underneath unless you have longer arms than me!).  If you can't do
this chock the wheels, engage neutral and release the handbrake.
I once checked a friends on the slight slope of my drive and declared
it healthy, only to find the slope had taken up all the play and my
waggling wasn't enough to move the whole vehicle.
  
The consequences of a prop snapping are very messy.
Cheers, Steve
  

------------------------------

From: "Paul Hazell" <p.hazell@worc.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 14:24:49 +0000
Subject:       Thanks

Thanks for all the cold engine advice (Steve, Peter, Tom etc), *very* helpful. Having read 
the various thoughts I think I'll opt for a mechanical exploration this weekend and see 
what I find - I'll let you know how things went on Monday (with no doubt a new set of 
questions)

Ta

Paul (SIII Lt/wt)

------------------------------

From: smitha@mail.CandW.lc
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 20:04:01 -0500
Subject: rust protection

Hi all.
After reading something favourable in LROI I decided to order some Dinitrol 
through the people who distribute LR to the Caribbean. I was told it was not 
easy to get and in any event very expensive, and that I would be better off with 
Waxoyl, which I would have to order directly from Hammerite because of difficult 
paperwork involved with chemicals. I have been faxing Hammerite daily for over a 
week with no response. My question is, can anyone tell me if there really is a 
huge difference in price? I need the best product that I can get because trade 
winds and coastal locations are terrible on anything that corrodes. Second, can 
anyone give me a contact number for the people who make Dinitrol?
Thanks
Allan
St. Lucia

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 00:16:12 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Dead UJ? (Urgent).

CJ BETTON N9203387 wrote:
>... a vibration has developed that shakes the entire vehicle. This only
> occurs on acceleration, and not on overrun. Sudden application of 
> right foot also cause a metallic clonk.

I suggest you check to see if you have oil in your rear axle. The 
symptoms sound more like crown wheel and pinion trouble. UJs will create 
vibration on acceleration and overrun. Most wear on axle gears occurs on 
the driving side of the teeth so they go first, hence no noise on 
overrun. Lack of lube can cause this to develop rapidly.
Badly worn UJs are obvious if you crawl underneath and waggle them. You 
will be able to see movement if they are that bad.
I hope it is not your axle, but if not, it is likely to be a gearbox 
bearing or gear set.

Could not get back to you before 5pm: I only just managed to find time 
to read today's mail.

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

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