The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 18:38:19 +0000
From: Ian Robinson <ian@fourx4.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Perkins problems...

In message <96Mar11.144029gmt.36875@oswald.worc.ac.uk>, Paul Hazell
>I was talking to a mate at lunch time about his SIII Perkins powered 109". He 
>was saying 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>advice (he's 
>not on email so replies via me please).

Yes, you're correct unless for some reason he's getting lots of
condensation because of blocked breathers (if there are any on this
engine!)
>Also he says that his maximum speed is 50mph (with overdrive and FWH) and it's 
>"as if the 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>mine), I 
>would of thought he could expect a *bit* more. Yes?
No. He's lucky to get that. All the perkins are *very* low revving, but
they'll pull a house down. It's a question of gearing - either change
the transfer box to one that's been uprated by 30% or fit Range Rover
diffs.

>Also he says that his maximum speed is 50mph (with overdrive and FWH) and it's 

Regards, Ian
                FOREST LANDROVERS' 4 x 4 CENTRE
                Royal Forest of Dean, Glos, UK
                +44 (0)1594 822606/(0)402 000132
                http://www.star.co.uk/forest

------------------------------

From: PETER ESTIBEIRO - CGR <PETERE@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Tue, 12 Mar 1996 09:52:41 +0000
Subject:       Carbs, Weber and Zenith

Dear All
Two things about carbs, first my problem with a Zenith then some 
weber restoration info.
1) Zenith: I have been having trouble getting my newly renovated 
series I 86" to run properly.  It has an ex-military low comp 2.25 
with Zenith.  Initial problems seemed to be ignition related (13 
years in a barn is probably bad for the coil :-] ) and these are now 
sorted.  I have also overhauled the carb but can't get it to idle 
lean.  It runs well but with a sooty yellow flame (colour-tune) even 
with the volume screw as tight as I can get it.  Is it possible that 
petrol is sucking through somewhere else (would it help to remove and 
resit the O-ring (its new but might there be grit or something 
allowing some suck through).  Is it possible that the volume screw 
valve seat is damaged? can this be fixed? can I put the bottom of 
another old carb onto this one and see if it helps of are they made 
together to fit? are there any other possibilities?  Any suggestions 
would be appreciated I'm getting fed-up with it.
BTW the burn turns blue with yellow flecks at 1500+ rpm so main 
jeting etc is OK..

Weber:  I have once overhauled a weber (fiesta).  A genuine weber 
overhaul kit (available from Weber dealers-see yellow pages) has a 
detailed and extremely comprehensive instruction booklet.  There is 
also a Haynes manual on Webers.  Hope this helps those of you 
contemplating overhauling Webers.

Peter
Series I 86" 
Series III 109 safari

------------------------------

From: "E D O'BRIEN" <bt5179@qmw.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 11:26:12 GMT0BST
Subject: Re: Weber restoration

> Dear all - I have nothing on the Weber, but LROI had articles on 
> Solex 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> SI 107in S/W
> Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

well thats great if you happen to have a Solex or a Zenith now I've 
got a fairly new Weber which seems to have similar but less severe 
symptoms as were described (slugish acceleration mostly.

the reason for this I was told was because the way a Weber works to 
be more fuel efficient than the other types of carb is to starve the 
engine of air or fuel (I can't remember which) so reducing 
performance but increasing fuel efficiency.

hope this helps

Ed.O'Brien (SIIA SWB 1963)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 22:58:07 +0000
From: Ian Robinson <ian@fourx4.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: speedo problems

In message <96Mar11.125634gmt.36875@oswald.worc.ac.uk>, Paul Hazell
<p.hazell@worc.ac.uk> writes
>My speedo seems to suffer from a few problems. I wondered if anybody could help.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>should. Any 
>advice? 
Hi Paul,

Are you running on 750 x 16 size tyres; this could account for the 10mph
slow symptom ?

If your speedo cable is in good condition then your speedo head is
defective.

Regards, Ian
                FOREST LANDROVERS' 4 x 4 CENTRE
                Royal Forest of Dean, Glos, UK
                +44 (0)1594 822606/(0)402 000132
                http://www.star.co.uk/forest

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 11:33:40 +0000 (WET)
From: Peter Venters <venters@atm.ox.ac.uk>
Subject: Windows (old technology)

Nothing to do with computers, instead, a couple of obscure questions for
series one owners out there... 

Does anyone know where I can get hold of the rubber strip used to hold 
series one hard top windows in place? I am convinced I saw a reference to 
this in a recent Series One Club Newsletter, but couldn't find it when I 
looked last night - if anyone can remember which one it was in I'd be 
grateful to hear from you.

Is the window in the rear flap of a hard top (NOT safari type door) held 
in with the rubber strip too, or is it in a frame as per later Land-Rovers?

Oh yes, and if anyone has a good quality hard-top (86"/88") out there that 
they want rid of, let me know! Thanks for any help,

Peter

------------------------------

From: "Paul Hazell" <p.hazell@worc.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 11:49:50 +0000
Subject:       Re: Carbs, Weber and Zenith

Snip:

>...overhauled the carb but can't get it to idle 
>lean.  It runs well but with a sooty yellow flame (colour-tune) even 
>with the volume screw as tight as I can get it. 

Peter,

Having just overhauled a Zenith at the weekend it sounds like the same 
problem I had. It was down to the mixture screw - according to the Feb 
issue of LRO (which had an article on overhauling the Zenith) when the 
screw is right in the engine should stall. Mine didn't (like yours) It 
sounds like either the tapered end of the screw or the casting is worn 
therefore not allowing the mixture to be progressively made more lean. A 
carburation centre can restore the internal surface of in the casting 
where the screw sits for about a tenner. Is the mixture screw a new one? 
If so try the old one as it will be worn to match the casting. Putting 
the old one back in my carb cured the problem.

Paul Hazell (SIII Lt/wt)

      _________________________
     /                         \
    /___________________________\
    ||            |            ||
    ||     .______|______.     ||
    ||-----|             |-----|| 
/-\ ||----_|_____________|_----|| /-\
\_/ |    / +++++++++++++++ \    | \_/
   \|   / +++++++(_)+++++++ \   |/
    -----\ +++++++++++++++ /-----
    |/ \ | +++++++++++++++ | / \|
    |\_/ | +++++++++++++++ | \_/|
    _____  +++++++++++++++  _____
    |___|    ._________.    |___|
    _|_|_____|ERL  339K|_____|_|_
    |___________________________|
    |   |      \__/         |   |
    |   |                   |   |
    |___|                   |___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 96 11:51:08 GMT
From: Carl Butler <cjb1000@cheng.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Power steering!

Has anyone out there had any problems with power steering,  as fitted to a 1985
110 csw?  Recently,  I have had a couple of occasions where,  when starting off 
from cold,  there has been a sudden loss of power steering fluid from somewhere
under the vehicle.  It has not been possible to locate the exact position,  but
it is somewhere close to the steering box,  I think.  There is an initial loss 
of fluid,  (onto the road)  after which the problem seems to cure itself and 
everything is fine again for a few weeks.  This has happened three times,  the 
worst being last night,  when about a third of the fluid from the tank was lost...previously, it was only a few ml.  I duly topped up the reservoir this morning
and tried out the steering and everything seems fine.  I'm a little puzzled.

A few questions:

This problem seems to occur after a heavy frost - could there be an obvious seal
 which is freezing,  or is there any type of breather which may be blocked with 
ice (the resulting build up of pressure causing a seal to blow momentarily)?

Is there a maintenance kit for any seals in the power steering system which may 
be worth looking at?

I spoke to a local LR dealer who reassured me that even if all the fluid were 
lost there wouldn't be any immediate problem,  apart from heavy steering.  Any
 views on this.  I obviously keep the levels topped up to avoid this,   but with
an intermitant problem,  and up to a two week wait for the garage to have a look
it's worth bearing in mind.......

I would be grateful for any suggestions,

Many thanks
               Carl 

------------------------------

From: Murray Greer <9341651G@STUDENT.GLA.AC.UK>
Date:          Tue, 12 Mar 1996 11:48:22 BST
Subject:       

unsubscribe lro-uk

------------------------------

From: "Paul Hazell" <p.hazell@worc.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 12:29:42 +0000
Subject:       Re: speedo problems

>Are you running on 750 x 16 size tyres; this could account for the 
>10mph
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>Regards, Ian
>                FOREST LANDROVERS' 4 x 4 CENTRE

Hi Ian,

Thanks for the info, although its got me confused. I'm running on 
205r16s and I thought this may be the problem (i.e. the opposite to what 
you'r suggesting!) Without making it to convoluted here is my reasoning 
for it (I know the speeds are wrong, its just to explain):

If we say the *speedo* is reading 50mph but your real road speed is 
55mph (i.e. your speedo under reads), the wheels and rear axle are 
turning at 550rpm.  Lets also say the speedo cable is turning at 550rpm. 
This is on 205 tyres.

Since the speedo drive is taken from the gearbox the speed it reads, as 
we all know, will vary according to tyre size.

Now if you put the same vehicle on 750 tyres what happens? Lets say the 
circumference of your tyre is now 10% more. This will mean if the rear 
axle is turning at 550rpm (as before) the tyre will be covering 10% or 
so more ground. So your *road* speed will *actually* have increased to 
55mph. BUT, and here the clever bit, your speedo will still read 55mph 
as the only thing that is revolving faster is the outer edge of your 
larger tyre i.e. the speedo reads correctly!

Does this make sense? Or am I talking out of my hat?

Paul (SIII Lt/wt - on 205r16 tyres ;-] )

      _________________________
     /                         \
    /___________________________\
    ||            |            ||
    ||     .______|______.     ||
    ||-----|             |-----|| 
/-\ ||----_|_____________|_----|| /-\
\_/ |    / +++++++++++++++ \    | \_/
   \|   / +++++++(_)+++++++ \   |/
    -----\ +++++++++++++++ /-----
    |/ \ | +++++++++++++++ | / \|
    |\_/ | +++++++++++++++ | \_/|
    _____  +++++++++++++++  _____
    |___|    ._________.    |___|
    _|_|_____|ERL  339K|_____|_|_
    |___________________________|
    |   |        \__/       |   |
    |   |                   |   |
    |___|                   |___|

------------------------------

Date: 12 Mar 96 07:55:03 EST
From: <Glen_Rees@parlon2.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: Subject: Windows (old technology)

     
     >Subject: Windows (old technology)
     
     >Nothing to do with computers, instead, a couple of obscure questions 
     >for series one owners out there...
     
     >Does anyone know where I can get hold of the rubber strip used to 
     >hold series one hard top windows in place? I am convinced I saw a 
     >reference to this in a recent Series One Club Newsletter, but 
     >couldn't find it when I looked last night - if anyone can remember 
     >which one it was in I'd be grateful to hear from you.
     
     Try Stafford Dovey - He should have the correct stuff - phone number 
     in Leg-end. (club mag)  Any good windscreen firm should be able to 
     supply it, at a cost!!  Fitting it without the correct tool is a 
     b----r!"$$%
     
     >Is the window in the rear flap of a hard top (NOT safari type door) 
     >held in with the rubber strip too, or is it in a frame as per later 
     >Land-Rovers?
     
     Mine is held with the same rubber strip as the sides.
     
     >Oh yes, and if anyone has a good quality hard-top (86"/88") out there 
     >that they want rid of, let me know! Thanks for any help,
     
     No chance!  They are as rare as rocking horse droppings.(good ones 
     that is)
     
     R  1  3        H
     +--|--|   FWD  |
        2  4        L            '55 Series One
                              (25 YEAR TAX EXEMPT)  
     
     Glenn

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 22:37:13 +0000
From: Ian Robinson <ian@fourx4.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: G/Box noise identity ????

In message <4A58144767@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>, PETER ESTIBEIRO - CGR
<PETERE@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk> writes
> If you have to get a new lock washer, get it from 
>Superwinch rather than Landrover as the ones for use with overdrive 
>are slightly different from the ones for use without.

Or simply trim about 1mm off the protruding tabs so that the overdrive
clutch sleeve will fit over.

Regards, Ian
                FOREST LANDROVERS' 4 x 4 CENTRE
                Royal Forest of Dean, Glos, UK
                +44 (0)1594 822606/(0)402 000132
                http://www.star.co.uk/forest

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 22:53:24 +0000
From: Ian Robinson <ian@fourx4.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Weber restoration

In message <9603111753.AA16590@sun49.src.bae.co.uk>, Graeme Booth
<Graeme.Booth@src.bae.co.uk> writes
>>>>>> "JAMES" == JAMES O-SHEA <SAC3JNO@cardiff.ac.uk> writes:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>I agree! If anyone can be bothered enough to give a few tips on the
>things people should be looking for when stripping down their carb,

What everyone seems to not realise with their carb problems is that
petrol is an abrasive and carb manufacturers state that on an average
car the carb is worn out after 30,000 miles. If one assumes that
Land/Range Rovers consume twice as much petrol as the average car then
this is quite alarming. Carbs are something that I wouldn't even try to
recondition, certainly not without proper engineering facilities that
would allow such things as base plate leveling etc. And certainly *any*
diy reconditioning will have limited life.

The reason LRO haven't done a feature on the weber carb is probably that
it is only a carb conversion and not a Land Rover spec item. The wear
from fuel throughput is more serious with such a fixed jet carb because
although the jets can be replaced the drilled body of the carb is
intregal to the performance of it. When you have factors selling a new
carb for 50 ukp what's ths point.

FWIW the most common problem I find with carbs is the ingress of air
after the butterfly; leaking vacuum pipes, advance units, manifolds,
both inlet and exhaust and leaking exhaust systems. My advice to those
of you with carb problems if to start at the rear of the exhaust pipe
and work forward.

I love it when a customer walks in and asks me how much for a new carb
and how much to fit it; rather than asking me to diagnose his problem;
for one I get paid for the other I often don't.

Regards, Ian
                FOREST LANDROVERS' 4 x 4 CENTRE
                Royal Forest of Dean, Glos, UK
                +44 (0)1594 822606/(0)402 000132
                http://www.star.co.uk/forest

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 13:51:16 GMT
From: "T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Windows

>Does anyone know where I can get hold of the rubber strip used to hold 
>series one hard top windows in place? I am convinced I saw a reference to 

Try your local Autoglass shop. When I replaced the window strip on my old
109, I eventually took it to Autoglass after losing patience with trying to
fit the new rubber. They fitted 4 windows (the holes and glass were already
cut) for no charge apart from a donation to a local charity.
It took them about 10 minutes to fit all four. Easy when you know how.
-------------------------------------
Tom Stevenson  gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station
Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland

Tel 01475 530581
Fax 01475 530601
-------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 08:36:50 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Re: cold engine problems - cured

*** Resending note of 11/03/96 18:12
James wibbled:
|when the whole car seems to pick up and shoot off with lighteneing
|speed.

When I first read this I assumed you had the wrong list, this is
for discussing Land Rovers after all, not Ferraris.
  
On looking again I saw that I had misread the typo ie, lighteneing.
Obviously meant to be lightening, rather than lightning.
  
According the the theory of relativity the faster you go the heavier
you get, so the natural Land Rover speed of dead slow will in fact make
you lighter than if it travelled faster.
  
Fizziks is fun!
Steve
  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 09:07:01 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Birmabrite Brotherhood

Hi all,
  
I have just had the first BB listing arrive hot off the press. There are
only 2 of us on the UK list, and the other one doesn't know about me as
I was missed off the first pass of the list.
  
It's quite a good situation for me - I have everybody else's phone
number and they don't have mine!!
  
With a bit of cooperation we could have a useful self help group
started.
  
I don't want to force anybody into signing up if they really don't want
to.
  
If you think that you could need help some day (which you probably will
if you drive a LR), or feel generous enough to help somebody else who is
in trouble. Then drop Trevor Easton a note at teaston@dqc2.dofesco.ca
with your phone number, area and any other relevant details.
  
Remember this is a no obligation thing, which relies entirely on
goodwill of the members of the list.
  
Steve Reddock, Xyratex       | Just as he thought he had
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450     | clinched the interview he was
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)           | visited by the ghost of Usenet
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com | Postings Past.

------------------------------

Date: 12 Mar 96 10:29:37 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Power steering!

> I spoke to a local LR dealer who reassured me that even if all the fluid
> were lost there wouldn't be any immediate problem, apart from heavy
> steering.  Any views on this.  I obviously keep the levels topped up to

Some dealer...  I dare say even Arny (Schwarzenegger) would have serious
problems keeping a Land Rover under control that loses all its power
steering fluid, and of course both power steering pump and the steering
box would self-destruct in no time at all since the fluid also acts as
(the only) lubricant.

As for the cause: Tell your daft dealer to get in touch with Land Rover,
there has been a recall out since well over a week concerning precisely
a certain batch of steering boxes fitted to Defenders and Discos which
contain faulty components.

Cheers,

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 15:45:31 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: speedo problems

Paul Hazell wrote:

> your speedo will still read 55mph
> as the only thing that is revolving faster is the outer edge of your
> larger tyre i.e. the speedo reads correctly!
> Does this make sense? Or am I talking out of my hat? 

Emmissions are from your hat!

The speedo, in simple terms displays the result of counting the wheel 
revolutions. The number of revolutions made by a wheel at a given road 
speed will vary with the circumference of the tyre. A 750 x 16 tyre will 
have a diameter (and, hence, circumference) about 11% greater than a  
standard 205 x 16.

The displayed speed with 750 tyres will be 11% less than actual speed. 
If the speedo was under-reading by 10% already, the error will be 
increased. If it was over-reading, then all will be square!

Did you check the drive worm? I still think that this is the likeliest 
source of your problem (assuming the simple checks like speedo cable, 
have been made). I had this problem, and that was the cure.

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

From: Richard Spencer <RICHARD@vali.easysoft.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 96 15:48:00 G

unsubscribe  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 10:21:02 
From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff@g0ddx.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Rear leaf springs

In article: <199603091755.JBM02812@playground.sun.com> 
Mailer-Daemon@playground writes:
> From Mailer-Daemon@playground Tue Mar 12 10:07:17 1996
> Received: from punt4.demon.co.uk by g0ddx.demon.co.uk with SMTP 
> 	id AA826625237 ; Tue, 12 Mar 96 10:07:17 +0000
> Received: from punt-4.mail.demon.net by mailstore for 
geoff@g0ddx.demon.co.uk
>           id 826394223:28202:1; Sat, 09 Mar 96 17:57:03 GMT
> Received: from playground.sun.com ([192.9.5.5]) by 
punt-4.mail.demon.net
>           id aa27818; 9 Mar 96 17:56 GMT
> Received: from localhost by playground.sun.com (SMI-8.6/SMI-SVR4)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
>     (expanded from: :include:/export/home/majordom/lists/uk-lro)
>    ----- Transcript of session follows -----
RUWEI@IBH.RWTH-AACHEN.DE,y0002967@ws.rz.tu-bs.de,windhof@uni-muenster.de
.. Deferred: No route to host

> In article: <199603051008.CAA03118@playground.sun.com> 
> steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com writes:
> > The extra power will apply a greater twisting force on the springs. 
> Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 09:55:34 -0800
It
> > is feasible that you could cause problems in the long run because 
this
> > force will tend to lift in front of the axle and pull down behind, 
but 
> I
> > would have thought that this would apply less force than hitting 
bumps
> > hard, even though when you hit a bump the spring compresses 
uniformly.
> > LR springs are so stiff anyway to handle huge loads that you should 
> > would have thought that this would apply less force than hitting 
be
> > OK with springs in good nick.
> > I suspect that it is not the V6 which is causing your problem, just 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> old
> > age.
 Well consider the springs that are fitted to the Stage 1 V8. Are they a 
 different part number?. (perhaps yours is a SWB). Can they be fitted?.
 If they can take a V8 then the V6 should not be all that different 
 (roughly speaking). 
 

------------------------------

From: "E D O'BRIEN" <bt5179@qmw.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 16:29:28 GMT0BST
Subject: fitting over-drive-units?

hello everybody

I can probably assume that someone out there has fitted an over drive 
unit if not to a SIIA (SWB) as I am contemplating but to a SIII or 
something vaguely similar, my question is how easy is it to fit them, 
is it worth it, how much cutting and hammering will I need to do 
to fit it and how long will it take to fit it?

all replies will be greatly appreciated.

Ed.O'Brien (SIIA SWB 1963).

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 11:08:16 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Bull bars

A few months ago Watchdog ran an article on bull bars.
  
I knew what the results of their tests would be, but I watched
anyway.
  
They started off fairly well by testing the results of a small
pedestrian being hit by a 4x4 with and without bull bars.  Hooray!
Somebody actually performing a valid experiment!  Maybe I was
wrong, perhaps they are going to be fair.
  
No chance.  The experiment they did was a waste of time & money.
They bounced a dummy head into a bull bar at 30 MPH (I think) at about
45 degrees below horizontal, ie downwards.
  
The result was that the head was not in the best of condition. Most
likely dead infact - no surprize there.
  
Then they repeated the same test without the bull bar and found that
the small child would infact survive.  This may strike you as a bit odd,
but to get this result they cheated.
  
They bounced the "head" off the middle of the bonnet at the same
downwards angle.  The middle of a bonnet on just about anything
but a series LR (they used some Japanese thingy I think) is soft
and bouncy - especially compared to a bull bar.
  
I am totally convinced that if they had bounced the head off the front
edge of the bonnet, where it is almost as stiff as a bull bar they
would have had very different results.
  
They finished off by "asaulting" everybody who had a bull bar equipped
car in a supermarket car park, claiming that they where deliberatly
trying to kill children.  The results of this bit where a great deal
of discomfort for the people who had just been shown on TV as people
who where being accused of attempted murder.  Most said they would
have the bull bars removed.  At least the ones they showed anyway!
  
In all the report was sufficiently flawed that the results are
meaningless.
  
I feel that they knew what the results would be if they haddn't
cheated and that would not have made such dramatic, headline
grabbing TV so they lied.
  
The true results are that being hit by a high bonneted vehicle
with an almost horizintal bonnet (the stiffest type) is a really
bad thing.  Bull bars only make it slightly worse, except on a
series LR where they probably help.
  
I really hate the attitude at the minute where pedestians are free
to blindly walk out and it is the poor car drivers fault if they
are unable to stop before the crunch.
  
The attitude should be join the IAM and learn to drive properly,
rather than drive around like a myopic old git at 5 miles an
hour bouncing off cotton wool wrapped pedestrians every 5 yards.
  
Remeber that TV ad:  you are going to kill me... you are going to
kill me... you are going to kill me as you are driving too fast...
  
I prefer the version I saw in a .sig somewhere:  You are going to
kill me... you are going to kill me as you are a myopic old git
who doesn't look where you are going!
  
Which is the cause of almost all accidents. Not that the speed was too
high for the road conditions, more like the speed was too high for the
driver's observational skills.
  
Join the IAM, it could be the best thing you ever do!
  
Rant temporarily suspended.
  
Steve Reddock, Xyratex       | Just as he thought he had
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450     | clinched the interview he was
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)           | visited by the ghost of Usenet
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com | Postings Past.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 12:42:02 
From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff@g0ddx.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Perkins problems...

In article: <96Mar11.144029gmt.36875@oswald.worc.ac.uk> 
p.hazell@worc.ac.uk writes:

> I was talking to a mate at lunch time about his SIII Perkins powered 

109". He was saying 
> when he looks at the inside of his oil filler cap there is a creamy 
residue on the inside. 
> Oh dear, I thought, isn't this the symptom of coolant and oil mixing? 
He said at times you 
> actually get water droplets dripping of when you fist lift he cap! Can 
any one advice (he's 
> not on email so replies via me please).
> Also he says that his maximum speed is 50mph (with overdrive and FWH) 

and it's "as if the 
> engine still has more 'go' put there is some sort of 'barrier'" (his 
words, not mine), I 
> would of thought he could expect a *bit* more. Yes?
> Paul Hazell (SIII Lt/wt 1972)

Its probably condesation mixing with the oil, a symptom of not getting 
the engine hot enough, try an oil change and a few long runs, aslo a bit 
of cardboard infornt of the RAD will help on short runs in cold weather
Regards

Geoff Wilkin

Official EMail      wilkingj@btinternet.com
Personal EMail      geoff@g0ddx.demon.co.uk
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 12:34:56 
From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff@g0ddx.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: speedo problems

In article: <96Mar11.125634gmt.36875@oswald.worc.ac.uk> 
p.hazell@worc.ac.uk writes:

> My speedo seems to suffer from a few problems. I wondered if anybody 
could help.
> Symptoms:
> The needle seems to "bounce"  at about the 50mph mark, it sometimes 

sticks at 30mph when 
> your doing considerably more than this and it reads about 10mph under 
what it should. Any 
> advice? 

Well... try securing the cable to varoius parts of the body / chassis / 
pipes etc etc. Whats probably happeingin is the cable is vibration and 
shaking, this causes the inner cable to "bounce" off the sidewalls of 
the outer cable and snag / slow hence the bouncing needle. 
I had the same problem on my 110, a cable replaced by the last owner 
without enough cable ties to hold it securely.
Also, (but will already know this) make sure it has nice sweeping bends 
where possible, again it will help, and cause less wear on the cable.

Regards
Geoff

------------------------------

From: PETER ESTIBEIRO - CGR <PETERE@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Tue, 12 Mar 1996 17:37:51 +0000
Subject:       Re: fitting over-drive-units?

 

 E D O'BRIEN wrote:

,>> my question is how easy is it to fit them<< 

Quite easy but remember the clutch sleeve nut must be very very 
tight, you need either special tool 600300 (I think, is this right 
does anyone know?) or alternatively Landrover special tools number 1 
and 2 (A big hammer and a big strong drift), 

>>is it worth it,<<

Yes it makes cruising much more relaxed and gives you an extra lever 
to play with and a new noise to worry about.

>> how much cutting and hammering will I need to do<<

You need to cut a hole in the gearbox cover for the lever.  If you 
get a copy of the overdrive fitting instructions they tell you 
exactly where.  If you're getting a new overdrive you'll get the 
instructions, if not someone will be able to give you a copy (I've 
got a copy of a copy).  If you have special tool 600300 you don't 
have to do any hammering.  If you have special tools 1 and 2 then 
there is a little hammering (and probably a sore hand!).
  
>> how long will it take to fit it?<<

About three hours, including measuring and cutting the hole.

Cheers 
Peter.

------------------------------

From: PETER ESTIBEIRO - CGR <PETERE@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Tue, 12 Mar 1996 17:48:17 +0000
Subject:       Re: Carbs, Weber and Zenith

Paul
Thanks for your carb advise.  I tried the old needle yesterday after 
reading about your success at the weekend and in my case it made no 
difference.  You could be right that the seat in the casing may be 
worn or damaged, I've begun to wonder that myself.  I'll see about 
getting the seat recut I hadn't realised that it could be done or 
that it was so cheap.
Cheers
Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 12:51:42 
From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff@g0ddx.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: BMW Powered Discovery

> Gray, Allan wrote:
> > who is
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> >BMW.
> Believe it or not, Allan, there are quite a few people who do just 
that. 
> There are 300 Tdi engines in the market which are available because of 
> this swap. These are bought by people taking out older diesels or V8s. 
> There are also 200 Tdi engines available for the same reason.
> Look at the number of BMW Alpina conversions, Mercedes conversions, 
and 
> you will see that there are some who spend money on their hobby, and 
why 
> not? Yachting, powerboating, car racing all take a lot of maney. Some 
> are quite prepared to spend their money on things they WANT, rather 
than 
> NEED.

> By the way, there was a 110 fitted with the GM 6.2 V8 diesel at last 
> years Wycombe Show.

I agree... Its what you want rather than what you need or can afford, 
Otherwise we would all be running around in Mini's, escorts and the 
likes!.

I also heard that the 6.2GMC engined 110 (if it was green with lots of 
stickers) had a lot of niggling problems in the Morrocco raid / warn 
trophy thing. 
I have seen a GMC 6.2 in a range rover. I considered it to be very noisy 
(from the outside), but did have a good power range. 

I shall stick with the Rover diesel as it keeps my insurance grouping 
down to a sane level!.

Geoff Wilkin

Official EMail      wilkingj@btinternet.com
Personal EMail      geoff@g0ddx.demon.co.uk
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Views expressed are my own and are no-one elses (or so I am told!)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 16:28:12 
From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff@g0ddx.demon.co.uk>
Subject: very sick engine

In article: <18450.199603111035@lenzie.cent.gla.ac.uk> 
gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk writes:

> 4 grand seems a bit on the steep side of astronomical for a 
replacement
> engine, especially a reconditioned one. I would think that a second 
opinion
> from another garage would be in order!
> It wasn't a franchised LR dealer that quoted this price by any chance?

Well... it depends. 

The factory price of a new 200TDI is over 4000 UKP, +VAT
But includes:-
Clutch + Plate + Cover
Flywheel
Starter motor
Alternator
Fuel Pump
Fuel Lift pump
Power steering Pump
Injectors
Heater plugs
Water Pump
Cooling Fan
Turbo
Turbo heat cover and Brackets

but then you need to consider that it also includes the price of a 
genuine factory:
exhaust, clips etc
RAD + pipes, clips etc
Fan Cowling
Rad Brackets
Bonnet stay (the old one fouls the oil cooler pipes)
Oil cooler + pipes, clips etc
Intercooler + pipes, clips etc
New Heater plug relay (abt 40 quid) + wiring loom
Clutch + Plate + Cover
Flywheel
even the TDI sticker for the front wing!

In fact everything you need to take the old lump out and drop in the new 
one.

Yes... Its a lot of money, but look at the price of a turner recon lump, 
and see how much the extra bits mentioned above will cost on top, then 
see how close they are, and you still wont have a TDI. 

That lot would cost you 3750+VAT AND its a BRAND NEW 200TDI from the 
factory, NOT a recon job, or a second hand job.

If you use a second hand job they can cost 2000UKP but dont include the 
fitting kit!. They could also be stolen, duff, or even a bargain!

There are lots of foreign implants, but then would you want to spoil 
your pride and joy with foreign engine?
 
The 4000UKP you were quoted for a recon unit seems a rip off... was it 
gold plated?

Best Regards

Geoff Wilkin

Official EMail      wilkingj@btinternet.com
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Views expressed are my own and are no-one elses (or so I am told!)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 20:54:28 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Windows (old technology)

Peter -
>Does anyone know where I can get hold of the rubber strip used to hold 
>series one hard top windows in place? I am convinced I saw a reference to 
>this in a recent Series One Club Newsletter, but couldn't find it when I 
>looked last night - if anyone can remember which one it was in I'd be 
>grateful to hear from you.

Sept 95, page 6. The company is
C.O.H. Baines Ltd
9 Park Road
Tunbridge Wells
Kent, TN4 9JP
Tel. 01892 524177

>Is the window in the rear flap of a hard top (NOT safari type door) held 
>in with the rubber strip too, or is it in a frame as per later Land-Rovers?
Accourding to my parts manual, rubber weather strip plus filler strip 
(exactly what you saw in The Legend).
>Oh yes, and if anyone has a good quality hard-top (86"/88") out there that 
>they want rid of, let me know! Thanks for any help,
you're welcome
>Peter
Peter
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

From: C.J.Short@ste0418.wins.icl.co.uk
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 20:30:16 +0000
Subject: Engine probs ???????

         Hello All, 
             This is my first attempt to send an email to the list, I`ve 
         been reading with interest for many months now the various 
         problems and interesting stories people have had to share. I now 
         would like some help if possible, I was recently driving on the A1 
         in my SIII SWB 2.5 diesel when going down a shallow hill at 45mph 
         a large amount of black smoke started blowing out of the exhaust 
         and a loud clunking came from the gearbox/engine. I managed to get 
         this to clear by depressing the clutch taking out of gear and then 
         letting it free wheel for a hundred yards and then putting it back 
         into 4th gear. It has happened a couple of times since each time 
         when going down hill and when the oil level is correct on the dip 
         stick. When the oil level dips below the min level it seems not to 
         happen so often. Does anyone out there have any ideas what has 
         gone wrong??????? 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 16:01:48 
From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff@g0ddx.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Power steering!

In article: <960312152936_100043.2400_JHB107-1@CompuServe.COM> 
100043.2400@compuserve.com writes:

> > I spoke to a local LR dealer who reassured me that even if all the 

fluid
> > were lost there wouldn't be any immediate problem, apart from heavy
> > steering.  Any views on this.  I obviously keep the levels topped up 
to
> Some dealer...  I dare say even Arny (Schwarzenegger) would have 
> > steering.  Any views on this.  I obviously keep the levels topped up 
serious
> problems keeping a Land Rover under control that loses all its power
> steering fluid, and of course both power steering pump and the 
steering
> box would self-destruct in no time at all since the fluid also acts as
> (the only) lubricant.
> As for the cause: Tell your daft dealer to get in touch with Land 

Rover,
> there has been a recall out since well over a week concerning 
precisely
> a certain batch of steering boxes fitted to Defenders and Discos which
> contain faulty components.

Well... I broke down, and have been towed without engine power for 3 
miles, and its a real PIG. Heavy steering isnt the word for it!.
It can be done but I wouldnt want to go far.

Without fluid, the pump will certainly pack up and go home!
The steering box, I am not so sure about, but it isnt designed to work 
like that!

Regards
Geoff Wilkin

Official EMail      wilkingj@btinternet.com
Personal EMail      geoff@g0ddx.demon.co.uk
Packet Radio        g0ddx@gb7ddx.#22.gbr.eu
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Views expressed are my own and are no-one elses (or so I am told!)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 22:46:29 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Perkins problems...

Geoff Wilkin wrote:

> Its probably condesation mixing with the oil, a symptom of not getting
> the engine hot enough,

I would tend to agree with that as the most likely cause. Driving to and 
from university each day at speeds between 30 and 50 mph (depending on 
what mood the speedo is in) may be the real problem.

Diesels are good in lorries and taxis where they start and stop a few 
times a day and do lots of miles. They must be run hot or condensation 
in the crankcase will mix with the oil to make a creamy emulsion. This 
does not make the best lubricant. A bit like running the engine on 
Brylcreme!

Diesels should be run hot for long life, and if not, the oil must be 
changed at very short intervals.

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 23:05:17 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Engine probs ???????

C.J.Short@ste0418.wins.icl.co.uk wrote:
>          Hello All,
>              This is my first attempt to send an email to the list,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Smoke..... Does anyone out there have any ideas what has
>          gone wrong???????

Now this is going to sound dumb,......but, er, could you have the wrong 
dipstick in the engine?

Many years ago British Leyland made a car called the Austin 1800 and 
2200 (like a grown up 1100). I recall that those cars driven by 
fastidious owners who checked the oil and topped it up to the full mark 
every Sunday, suffered from burnt out engines at a low mileage. Those 
who let the oil level stay low were not affected. It turned out that the 
marks on the dipstick were too high!

If some previous owner has stuck a dipstick in from another vehicle, 
this could give a wrong reading. A long shot, I know, and probably a red 
herring, but who knows?

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 96 16:27:38 PST
From: dtownsen@steinway.edaca.ingr.com (Dave Townsend)
Subject: Dipsticks....

All,

I went along to my Range Rover dealer to get a dipstick
because the one I had wasn't long enough. :)

Anyway, with my limited mechanical knowledge, I thought
you need to CHANGE the oil to benefit the engine, if you
just top it up, all the grunge will just accummulate and
cause excessive wear on the engine.  This might be an
old wives' tale, but I have two cars from new and both have
gone nearly 100,000 miles and their engines are mechanically
ok.

dave 

----- Begin Included Message -----

>From exemplar!dickins@uu.psi.com Mon Mar 11 17:52:49 1996
From: exemplar!dickins@uu.psi.com (Scott Dickinson)
Subject: Re: quotes
X-Sun-Charset: US-ASCII
Content-Length: 488
X-Lines: 14

I have no idea why the address changes... skitzoid 
system manager here I guess. A real dweeb... 

Jill??? Huh? But she is so important a part
of the domino quad. Saul and Farrokh and Robert
will not know what to do with themselves unless....
...Dave Townsend sits in!!! Yes, dominoes for a 
career for you dude. Otherwise they will become
dispondant and you have a 2 story building and
all... 

I left Gary a note to call you. Let me know
if he does not, and I will bug him some more. 

----- End Included Message -----

----- Begin Included Message -----

>From newconcept@tcp.co.uk Tue Mar 12 15:51:35 1996
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.0GoldB1 (Win95; I)
Mime-Version: 1.0
Subject: Re: Engine probs ???????
References: <"681*/I=CJ/S=Short/OU=ste0418/O=icl/PRMD=icl/ADMD=gold 400/C=GB/"@MHS>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Length: 1192
X-Lines: 29

C.J.Short@ste0418.wins.icl.co.uk wrote:
>          Hello All,
>              This is my first attempt to send an email to the list,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Smoke..... Does anyone out there have any ideas what has
>          gone wrong???????

Now this is going to sound dumb,......but, er, could you have the wrong 
dipstick in the engine?

Many years ago British Leyland made a car called the Austin 1800 and 
2200 (like a grown up 1100). I recall that those cars driven by 
fastidious owners who checked the oil and topped it up to the full mark 
every Sunday, suffered from burnt out engines at a low mileage. Those 
who let the oil level stay low were not affected. It turned out that the 
marks on the dipstick were too high!

If some previous owner has stuck a dipstick in from another vehicle, 
this could give a wrong reading. A long shot, I know, and probably a red 
herring, but who knows?

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

----- End Included Message -----

------------------------------

From: Paul Cooper <paul.c.cooper@carney.ftech.co.uk>
Subject: Poor Brakes
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 02:03:16 -0000

Could any one help !!!!!

I've just replaced the brake master cylinder on my 2.25 D SIIA 109. =
After four bottles of fluid and countless re-adjustments the brake =
peddle still goes to the within 1" of the floor on the first press. Then =
gradually comes up to what I would consider normal travel 2-2.5". At =
this point the peddle is solid, and I mean solid ( no slow sinking with =
13 stone's standing on it ).
Could any one help. Am at a loss and must be missing some think.

Many thanks

Paul

------------------------------

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