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The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 20:53:52 +0900
From: Alan Logue <alan@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Series III Gearbox problem
Can anyone help on this one?
Its a Six cylinder 1979 Series III fitted with an A suffix gearbox with
around 50000 km on the clock
Over the last week or so, first gear has become harder and harder to select
when at rest, buts its ok when changing down, on the move from 2nd to 1st.
2nd gear has also started to "crunch" since the problem with 1st gear started.
I have pulled out the selector forks and nothing is damaged. The selector
does not appear to have moved on the shaft either. The ball at the base of
the gearlever is rather worn on the left and right sides - would this be
enough to cause the problem?
Any ideas greatly appreciated!!!!!!!
Alan Logue
Adelaide South Australia
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 11:35:30 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: M.G. help - apology!
M.G.Forster wrote:
> Anyway does anyone have an opinion about the best/economic place to get a
> new chassis for my ageing Series III LWB Safari.
If its a new one you want, then there are ads in the well known Land Rover
magazines by manufacturers like Arrow Services etc.
If its a good used one, then that will be more difficult. I did, however, spot
what seemed to be a good chassis under a LWB which is being broken by Brooklyn
Engineering in Chandler's Ford, nr Southampton. It was raining so I did not
take a close look, but the whoile vehicle seemed to be in remarkably good
shape, and I thought the chassis seemed very solid. It would be worth ringing
them for their opinion. Tel: 01703-252281. Tell them it is the bright yellow
(!) painted LWB.
--
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769 Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
Home Page: http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 12:36:02 +0000
From: Ian Robinson <ian@fourx4.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Land Rover 2 wheel drive model ?
In message <Pine.3.89.9603151348.H28503-0100000@emr1.emr.ca>, Dixon
Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> writes
>On Fri, 15 Mar 1996, Ian Robinson wrote:
>> It's not often that I ask a question here but can any of the
>> knowledgeable enthusiasts out there give me some background
Thanks all for the info.
Regards, Ian
FOREST LANDROVERS' 4 x 4 CENTRE
Royal Forest of Dean, Glos, UK
+44 (0)1594 822606/(0)402 000132
http://www.star.co.uk/forest
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Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 21:18:58 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Brake repairs questions
So today I finally got around to repairing the front brake on my SI 107". It
took so long because I stupidly ordered the new wheel cylinder from the UK,
and the supplier one way or the other took about three months to deliver,
and then forgot the bleeding screw (I only mentioned that twice, though, so
it's probably my fault).
First question: How does one *really* remove the brake shoes? The springs on
them are so strong I could not get them off. Finally I used a wrench on the
brake shoe and pulled it off the rear side of the cylinder (not where it
rests on the piston), and that allowed me to get the spring off the anchor.
I damaged the edge of the brake lining, and I was afraid I might break the
brake shoe - there must be a better way?
The main problem I encountered, however, was totally unexpected. The
cylinder I had to replace was the right hand front bottom one (the piston
had seized, and the bleeding screw was broken off). I got the old one off
without major problems. The new one was a little different, but it fit.
However, I tried to reconnect the steel brake tube to the cylinder for about
two hours and could not get the screw to "take". Luckily I am extremely
frustration tolerant (mostly because my portfolio includes data processing,
so I have to be in order to survive), or a certain SI would have gone up in
flames there and then. Finally in desperation I unscrewed the steel tube
from the top cylinder, threaded it out through the bottom hole, screwed it
into the bottom cylinder off the anchor plate, threaded it back into
position (which took a little coaxing) and then took only about ten minutes
to screw it into the top cylinder, mostly because now I could see which way
the tube had to be pushed to be vertical to the cylinder. There *must* be a
better way to do this! These cylinders were not designed by Lucas (or were
they?)!
The Eezibleed I borrowed from my local guru worked like magic, BTW, even
though the SI reservoir does not win any prizes for accessibility.
So next weekend we will adjust the brakes (still pulling to the right), and
try and get the black paint off the wheels to expose the original 38 year
old grey. Also see if the new exhaust fits.
Grateful for any advice
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 21:43:42 +0000
From: canford@dial.pipex.com (Peter Barton)
Subject: Re: Series III Gearbox problem
Alan Logue from Adelaide South Australia wrote:
>Over the last week or so, first gear has become harder and harder to select
>when at rest, buts its ok when changing down, on the move from 2nd to 1st.
>2nd gear has also started to "crunch" since the problem with 1st gear started.
Alan you don't say if, "when at rest" the engine is still running....If it
is, then it could well be your clutch is not disengaging properly. Try
engaging first gear with the engine off and then with it running and see if
there is any difference. If the clutch is dragging, then you will get
problems engaging gears usually its the first gear that is most noticeable.
Regards,
.........................................................................
Peter Barton e-mail: canford@dial.pipex.com
Computer Dept. Phone : +44 (0) 1202 841254
Canford School
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 00:09:26 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Brake repairs questions
lopezba@atnet.at wrote:
> First question: How does one *really* remove the brake shoes? The springs on
> them are so strong I could not get them off. Finally I used a wrench on the
> brake shoe ......
My technique is to use a big screwdriver as a lever to pull each shoe off the
piston and forward in front of the piston. Then both springs will be contracted
enough to make removal simple. You have discovered the damage that can occur to
the linings by using a wrench!:-( So you won't do that again.:-)
Don't ask me to explain exactly how to use the screwdriver. You will have to
determine the best way to lever the shoes - explaining it in words would be too
much for my overtaxed brain! And, anyway, I am aching after removing my gearbox
today.
All I have to do now is get the replacement in, and hope that it is OK. Need a
new seatbox, though. The old one is full of large corrosion holes - particularly
the stowage box. Why on earth did Solihull have to stick a steel box to an alloy
seatbox?
BTW, I had thought of removing the transfer box first to make removal of the
transmission easier, but the manual said I needed service tool no x335888998...
(or similar) to extract the main shaft, which is retained with a 'c' clamp. Can
anyone tell me: is this true, or will it come out with simple force? Is any real
difficulty encountered in removing the transfer box? Moving the whole unit around
all the time is quite hard without assistance, and it might ease my task in
replacing the box this week.
--
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769 Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
Home Page: http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................
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END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST
Input: messages 6 lines 271 [forwarded 19 whitespace 57]
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