The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:08:47 +0000 (GMT)
From: hugh.davies@rnb.com (Hugh J.E. Davies)
Subject: RE: Disco toolkit...

dtownsen@steinway.edaca.ingr.com (Dave Townsend) writes;

	(is there a proper British English
	term for the spanner thingie which you use to change the wheels?)

Wheel brace.

Regards,

Hugh.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:20:20 +0000 (GMT)
From: hugh.davies@rnb.com (Hugh J.E. Davies)
Subject: Wheelbraces

"T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk> wrote;

>A similar thing happened to me a while ago. We had a rear tyre (a retread)
>shed its outer plies on the M1. Our attempts to undo the wheelnuts resulted
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>old socket with a bloody great bar welded on to it. It did the job though. I
>subsequently obtained a heavier-duty brace than the original LR item, which
>I have to this day.

I had a blowout on the A1(M) last year, which was a scary experience, changing
a wheel 18" from 70mph traffic. One good thing was that although it was a front
wheel, and occured at 75-80mph, the RR ran on the flat without any problem as
I pulled over onto the hard shoulder. Ruined the tyre, tho'.

The wheel brace on my '89 RR is a folding job which is about 2ft long in
it's unfolded state, and I've never had any trouble undoing wheel nuts with
it. ONe thing to be aware of is that garages in general, and discount tyre
places in particular, tend to do the wheel nuts up with pneumatic wrenches
to astronomical torques.

Regards,

Hugh.

------------------------------

From: "Paul Hazell" <p.hazell@worc.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:25:03 +0000
Subject:       Re: Land Rover 2 wheel drive model ?

>It's not often that I ask a question here but can any of the
>knowledgeable enthusiasts out there give me some background on a Land
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>a bit of a rare beast.
>Regards, Ian

Ian,

I know the RAF took examples of SI 4x2s and may well have taken SIIs. As far as I 
know they were intended as airfield runabouts (hence 2 wheel drive) Q: Why didn't 
they use an ordinary car? A: so they wouldn't have to have additional spares 
stock (I think) and beside the LR is a good load carrier.

I wouldn't change it - I'm sure it would be worth something to a collector. If 
the owner doesn't want it, sell it to an enthusiast and buy a bog standard SII, 
it would be a shame to lose it!

Paul Hazell (SIII Lt/wt 1972)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 13:37:30 +0000
From: Ian Robinson <ian@fourx4.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: M.G. help - apology!

In message <9603161043.AA15134@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>, "M.G.Forster"
<cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk> writes
>Anyway does anyone have an opinion about the best/economic place to get a
>new chassis for my ageing Series III LWB Safari. Its a 1973 2.25 petrol I
>have had for the past 8 years and I don't want to part with it. 

Contact me when you're ready to start the project. The best is often not
the most economic ! (as always)

There are several pattern chassis manufacturers about and the qualities
do vary considerably (nay alarmingly !)

Regards, Ian
                FOREST LANDROVERS' 4 x 4 CENTRE
                Royal Forest of Dean, Glos, UK
                +44 (0)1594 822606/(0)402 000132
                http://www.star.co.uk/forest

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:48:36 +0000 (WET)
From: Peter Venters <venters@atm.ox.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Brake repairs questions

On Mon, 18 Mar 1996, David Olley at New Concept wrote:

BTW, I had thought of removing the transfer box first to make removal of
the transmission easier, but the manual said I needed service tool no
x335888998...  (or similar) to extract the main shaft, which is retained
with a 'c' clamp. Can anyone tell me: is this true, or will it come out
with simple force? 

David,

When I last had to play with my gearbox, I removed the transfer box first,
as you suggest. (I had also, needless to say, removed the overdrive). This
was a Good Thing, as it made the whole job possible without needing a
hoist or super-human strength, neither of which I possess. It also has 
the added attraction of increasing the chance of getting drips of EP90 
up your sleeve. 

The special tool is to remove the shaft on the transfer box intermediate
gear, which I seem to remember has to be removed to get at the nuts
joining the transfer box to the main gearbox.  However, in my case the
shaft could be gently prised out with a large screwdriver. I was advised
by one of the Land-Rover garages I spoke to at the time (sorry, don't
remember which) that it was normal for the shaft to be this easy to
remove. They aslo advised some caution as the shaft is a casting the end
of which can shatter if the extracting tool (screwdriver) is used without
care. 

I also seem to recall it was important to check that the handbrake
operating arm was in the correct location before tightening up the
transfer box at the end, in my case of course it wasnt!  :-(

Hope this helps,

Peter

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 13:42:38 +0000
From: Ian Robinson <ian@fourx4.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Series III Gearbox problem

In message <199603171023.VAA11384@mail.mel.aone.net.au>, Alan Logue
<alan@a011.aone.net.au> writes
>Can anyone help on this one?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Over the last week or so, first gear has become harder and harder to select
>when at rest, buts its ok when changing down, on the move from 2nd to 1st.

You don't mention enough detail to diagnose properly but as a first
thought is your clutch hydraulics working properly. If selection whilst
stationary with the engine running is your problem I should look first
to the clutch operation before woorying about the gearbox.

Regards, Ian
                FOREST LANDROVERS' 4 x 4 CENTRE
                Royal Forest of Dean, Glos, UK
                +44 (0)1594 822606/(0)402 000132
                http://www.star.co.uk/forest

------------------------------

From: krm@mtnms.att.com (K.MOHLENHOFF)
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 07:58:58 EST
Subject: Re: The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

unsubscribe uk-lro-digest

------------------------------

From: JAMES O-SHEA <SAC3JNO@cardiff.ac.uk>
Date:          Mon, 18 Mar 1996 13:17:12 GMT
Subject:       Steering Wheels

We all know what it's like to grip the steering wheel of a 1959 SII 
landrover on a damp morning to find your hands have been coated with 
a sticky black mess.  Having gone through this for too many months 
I'm going to treat myself to a new wheel.  I want a nice stylish 
leather 3 spoke Italian steering wheel for my SII. So how do I go 
about it, I know a new wheel won't fit but do you think I could adapt 
it myself to fit. Is a steering wheel off a nice old car a 
possibility e.g. Jag, Martin, Ferrari, Lambo....etc.James O'shea
SAC3JNO@Cardiff.ac.uk

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 08:02:51 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: RE: Disco toolkit...

*** Resending note of 18/03/96 09:35
|   (is there a proper British English
|   term for the spanner thingie which you use to change the wheels?)
|Wheel brace.

  
Actually the police call then universal door keys.  You just put it
through the window...
  

------------------------------

From: PETER ESTIBEIRO - CGR <PETERE@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Mon, 18 Mar 1996 13:47:31 +0000
Subject:       Re: Steering Wheels

James
If you put a later steering box (series IIA or III, definitely III ) in then any 
British Leyland steering wheel will fit.  Several people I know use 
Ital steering wheels for trialing (you said you wanted an Italian 
one...). 

Cheers
Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 14:06:32 GMT
From: "T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Steering wheels

>leather 3 spoke Italian steering wheel for my SII. So how do I go 
>about it, I know a new wheel won't fit but do you think I could adapt 
>it myself to fit. Is a steering wheel off a nice old car a 
>possibility e.g. Jag, Martin, Ferrari, Lambo....etc.

A pal of mine has a Morris Marina steering wheel fitted in his SIII; this
may not be the image you're after...
Craddocks advertise fancy steering wheels & adaptors for Land Rovers though.
-------------------------------------
Tom Stevenson  gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station
Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland

Tel 01475 530581
Fax 01475 530601
-------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 08:11:04 -0600 (CST)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: Re: Steering Wheels

On Mon, 18 Mar 1996, JAMES O-SHEA wrote:
> Subject: Steering Wheels
> We all know what it's like to grip the steering wheel of a 1959 SII 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> possibility e.g. Jag, Martin, Ferrari, Lambo....etc.James O'shea
> SAC3JNO@Cardiff.ac.uk

best $20US i spent.  a leather steering wheel cover -- 17" if
i remember right -- an hour stitching it on and -- voila, no more
sticky.  the LR runs faster, too.  i got mine from MOSS motors
(USA) -- it was for a big healey.  this is a better and cheaper
route than a steering wheel replacement...

ray harder (siia -- lulu)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:22:38 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Steering wheel

Hi James, I have a 15" wheel in the lightweight.  I wouldn't go any
smaller.
  
I have big shoulders and am generally quite strong and I wouldn't
want anything smaller.
  
I bought mine from Craddocks. It's quite nice and I would recommend
one.  You will need to get a boss adapter kit though.
  
Perhaps the boss adapter from a scrap yard MKII Escort and a new
wheel?
  
The most important control on a car is the steering,  don't take
chances with it!
  
If you do fit a small wheel look forward to bulging shoulders before
long.
  
Steve Reddock, Xyratex       | Just as he thought he had
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450     | clinched the interview he was
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)           | visited by the ghost of Usenet
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com | Postings Past.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:45:08 +0000
From: Ian Robinson <ian@fourx4.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Brake repairs questions

In message <314CA9B6.184A@tcp.co.uk>, David Olley at New Concept
<newconcept@tcp.co.uk> writes

>BTW, I had thought of removing the transfer box first to make removal of the 
>transmission easier, but the manual said I needed service tool no x335888998... 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>all the time is quite hard without assistance, and it might ease my task in 
>replacing the box this week.
Ask the guy who supplied you with the box !!! :-)

Seriously, yes you can. Remove the handbrake assbly, remove the top and
bottom plates, remove the intermediate shaft to release the intermediate
cluster, then you can get at the 6 nuts which hold the transfer to the
main box. The're much easier to handle then.

Regards, Ian
                FOREST LANDROVERS' 4 x 4 CENTRE
                Royal Forest of Dean, Glos, UK
                +44 (0)1594 822606/(0)402 000132
                http://www.star.co.uk/forest

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 16:45:55 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Steering Wheels

JAMES O-SHEA wrote:
> We all know what it's like to grip the steering wheel of a 1959 SII
> landrover on a damp morning to find your hands have been coated with
> a sticky black mess.

Mine was like that too. All wheels eventually wear through the outer 
hard coating. But I treated myself to a brand new original equipment 
wheel from Paddock. The wheel is ideally suited to off road use, and 
gives full control. I would not expect saloon car wheels to be able to 
take the same sort of punishment given to a Landy wheel. The large 
diameter of the wheel also compensates for the lack of power steering. 
There is a tendency for smaller wheels to be fitted, and while these are 
"cool", they can result in sprained or broken wrists when driving off 
road seriously.

Leather covers have a habit of coming loose, and also get sticky quite 
quickly, since they absorb oils from the hands.

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 21:43:40 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Removing transfer box

David - thanks for the tip:

>My technique is to use a big screwdriver as a lever to pull each shoe off the 
>piston and forward in front of the piston. Then both springs will be 
contracted 
>enough to make removal simple. You have discovered the damage that can 
occur to 
>the linings by using a wrench!:-(  So you won't do that again.:-)

I tried the screwdriver approach, but could not find a fulcrum for it. 
Anyway, I will have ample opportunity to test various methods because all 
the old bleeding screws are seized and I will exchange all the wheel 
cylinders affected.
 
>BTW, I had thought of removing the transfer box first to make removal of the 
>transmission easier, but the manual said I needed service tool no 
x335888998... 
>(or similar) to extract the main shaft, which is retained with a 'c' clamp. 
Can 
>anyone tell me: is this true, or will it come out with simple force? Is any 
real 
>difficulty encountered in removing the transfer box? Moving the whole unit 
around 
>all the time is quite hard without assistance, and it might ease my task in 
>replacing the box this week.

LROI had an article with pictures about overhauling an SIIA/SIII 
transmission in January 96, and they left the transfer box on the 
transmission when they removed the transmission. If its any help and if you 
can't lay your hands on the magazine, I could fax you the pages, although 
the pictures are better in colour, of course. Let me know.
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 21:43:48 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Steering Wheels

James -
>We all know what it's like to grip the steering wheel of a 1959 SII 
>landrover on a damp morning to find your hands have been coated with 
>a sticky black mess.  Having gone through this for too many months 
>I'm going to treat myself to a new wheel.  

I wouldn't. The easy way is to fit a leather glove over your wheel (about 8 
gbp plus postage from John Craddock, about 7 pounds including postage from 
the Series One Club Shop). The even easier possibility is to act on Mike 
Rooth's advice (Feb. 12, 1993):

If your steering wheel, like mine, goes all yucky after the Land Rover has 
been left out all night in wet or damp conditions, and the black muck has to 
be wiped off before driving, try the following (if you haven't got a better 
solution). In dry conditions, polish the wheel rim with Brasso or similar 
brass cleaner. Must be abrasive, but not violently so. Use plenty of "elbow 
grease". Not only have I used this method, but a mate of mine uses it on his 
vintage cars, which are worth a hell lot more money than my Land Rover, so 
he isn't about to do them any harm! 
For what you paid for it
Mike Rooth ('70 IIA 88" Diesel)

Your steering wheel is a very characteristic part of your car. Apart from 
all the hassle and the potential danger of an adaptation - would you put a 
Corvette bumper on a LR?
Regards
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

From: Konstantinos.Venos@tiuk.ti.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 08:28:35 GMT
Subject: unscribe

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Konstantinos

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  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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