The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 05:05:50 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Re: Brake repairs questions

*** Resending note of 03/18/96 16:08
|bottom plates, remove the intermediate shaft to release the intermediate
|cluster, then you can get at the 6 nuts which hold the transfer to the
|main box. The're much easier to handle then.

  
I have never seen the need to remove the top plate, but I remove the
xfer box as Ian described and lift it out separately.  It's a
fairly easy lift (as is the main box on it's own).
  
BTW contrary to my previous postings I now think life is easier with
the seatbox out and lifitng the constitiuent parts out through the
top, rather dropping them down.
  
It depends how rusty your seat box bolts are I suppose.
  
Have fun, Steve
  

------------------------------

From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 10:39:04 +0000
Subject: Re: Brake repairs questions

Quoting Steve Reddock, from 19 Mar 96

> BTW contrary to my previous postings I now think life is easier with the
> seatbox out and lifitng the constitiuent parts out through the top,
> rather dropping them down.
This is your *only* option if you're working on a 109 :-)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

Quote of 1996: "A.L.S. is a good example of scotissityness"

------------------------------

From: "E D O'BRIEN" <bt5179@qmw.ac.uk>
Date:          Tue, 19 Mar 1996 11:13:00 GMT0BST
Subject:       Re: Steering Wheels

Peter Estibeiro wrote:

> James
> If you put a later steering box (series IIA or III, definitely III ) in then any 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Ital steering wheels for trialing (you said you wanted an Italian 
> one...). 

the steering box in question that you want is one from either a late 
SIIA (and I mean late) or a SIII because I've got an early SIIA 
(1963) and it still has the old type wheel. 

hope this helps.

Ed.O'Brien (SIIA SWB 1963)

------------------------------

From: "E D O'BRIEN" <bt5179@qmw.ac.uk>
Date:          Tue, 19 Mar 1996 11:24:30 GMT0BST
Subject:       SIII hand-brake levers

Anyone who drives a SIIA or earlier will know the problem that I have,
that is you practicaly have take the seat-belt off just to reach the 
hand brake as it is down by your left ankle.

SIIIs have a similar set up (if I'm not mistaken) but their hand-
brake levers curve round and up to about knee level.

my question is is has anyone ever replaced the lever on a SIIA with 
that from a SIII? and if so is an easy operation? I was reading 
through LRW magazine and it showed a SIIA trailler that they had done 
something similar to so I assume it must be possible.

Ed.O'Brien (SIIA SWB 1963)

------------------------------

From: JAMES O-SHEA <SAC3JNO@cardiff.ac.uk>
Date:          Tue, 19 Mar 1996 12:34:44 GMT
Subject:       Re: Steering Wheels

> Date sent:      Mon, 18 Mar 1996 16:45:55 +0000
> From:           David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Copies to:      uk-lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject:        Re: Steering Wheels

> JAMES O-SHEA wrote:
> > We all know what it's like to grip the steering wheel of a 1959 SII
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
> Leather covers have a habit of coming loose, and also get sticky quite 
> quickly, since they absorb oils from the hands.
Is your new steering wheel exactly like the old one? 
How much was it?James O'shea
SAC3JNO@Cardiff.ac.uk

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 12:43:53 +0000
From: Michael Turpin <M.Turpin@ucl.ac.uk>
Subject: Cut-out Switch

Hi,

I would like to fit a cut-out switch to my 2.5 Diesel, '85 110 SW and keep
it seperate from the alarm system.  Presumably the best place to connect it
is in-line with the fuel cut-off switch, does anyone know what kind of
current this switch takes when the ignition is turned on?
Also, any suggestions as to where to 'hide' the cut-out switch?

Any help or suggestions gratefully received.

Cheers
Mike

____________________________________________________________________________

                        Michael Turpin
                        Network Operations Section,
                        Network Group,
                        Information Systems Division,
                        Kathleen Lonsdale Building,
                        University College London,
                        Gower Street,
                        WC1E 6BT.

E-Mail: m.turpin@ucl.ac.uk                            Tel: 0171-380-7828

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 08:08:34 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Re: Steering wheel

James, the problem is that a flash wheel from a normal car will be 13 or
14 inch diameter. My small wheel is 15 inch and was hard to find outside
of LR dealers such as craddocks.
  
To find any "sports" car with such a wheel, second hand will be
unlikely. Perhaps a Ferrari Daytona, they have big wheels.
  
The key to steering wheel comfort seems to be rim diameter. LR rims are
very skinny, not what you need when you are trying to grip hard. By that
I do not mean the total diameter of 17 inches, but the diameter of the
bit you grip ie 0.5 - 1 inch.
  
BBS wheels tend to be around 100 quid... Rip off or what, alloy road
wheels are cheaper.
  
A good cover for your existing wheel could be the best solution.
  
I need a small wheel so I can climb into the bucket seats BTW.
It not only makes the steering heavy, but the kickbacks when off
roading are worse, but driving at warp factor 7 on the hill rally
much easier =:-)
  
Steve Reddock, Xyratex       | Just as he thought he had
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450     | clinched the interview he was
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)           | visited by the ghost of Usenet
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com | Postings Past.

------------------------------

From: PETER ESTIBEIRO - CGR <PETERE@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Tue, 19 Mar 1996 13:50:07 +0000
Subject:       Re: SIII hand-brake levers

Ed
A long handbreak lever will fit straight into a series I or II.  A 
lot of people do this.

Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 09:02:28 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Cut off switches

Hi Mike, I was unsure of what type of cut off switch you meant.
  
If you mean the big red key type make sure you get the expensive
variety with alternator protection diodes if you plan on using it to
stop a running engine.  These are about 35 quid, as opposed to 6.
  
Normal ones just break the battery connection and that can really
upset the electrics of the car as the alternator is unregulated.
  
The better ones cut the battery, short the coil (not much help on a
diesel) and ground the output of the alternator so the engine will
actually stop.
  
There isn't anywhere that hidden in most LRs to hide something that
obvious, dark shaded corners are the best bet.
  
I hope I have answered the question you asked.
  
Steve Reddock, Xyratex       | Just as he thought he had
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450     | clinched the interview he was
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)           | visited by the ghost of Usenet
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com | Postings Past.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 16:08:14 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Steering Wheels

JAMES O-SHEA wrote:
> Is your new steering wheel exactly like the old one?
> How much was it?

It is a Land Rover OE steering wheel exactly like the one that I took 
off my SIII, but without the fungus.

Price from John Craddock is Pounds 31.56 inc VAT. Centre caps also 
available. All in stock now.

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 16:20:49 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: [Fwd: Re: rust treatments]

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-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 16:10:52 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Organization: New Concept
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.0GoldB1 (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Subject: Re: rust treatments
References: <bulk.11716.19960319004246@Land-Rover.Team.Net>
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The anonymous azw@aber.ac.uk wrote:
> Re: Waxoyl.
> There are two types. Black and gooey, and clear(ish) and more brittle. The
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> for folk that want to use it instead f a normal paintwork polish - antique
> restorers and teh like.

Eh? What?
I have never come across the black Waxoyl. As to shrinkage and cracking of 
Waxoyl, I am surprised to hear this. I was under the impression that the whole 
benefit of Waxoyl was that it self repaired any stone chip damage etc.

If it is of interest, I will quote from the blurb on my can of the stuff.

"Waxoyl contains no harmful or toxic acids. It consists of fine wax particles 
suspended in a thick viscous fluid saturated with a very powerful rust killer 
in the form of millions of microscopically electrically charged "Tadpole" 
molecules which displace water and oxygen from pores in the rust. The water 
repellant head polarises onto metal and rust.
Waxoyl remains active indefinitely after application .... If the film is 
scratched, millions of molecules remain in the film ready to flow onto the 
damaged area. .... Tests have shown no reduction in performance after seven 
years."

This seems to be in conflict with comments from various posters in recent days.

BTW, the reason why shipping may be a problem is that Waxoyl contains 
inflammable white spirit as a solvent, and has a Flashpoint of 43 deg C. 
Aircraft pilots don't seem to like that sort of thing in the hold.

Of course, this means Waxoyl can be removed completely, if necessary, with 
white spirit.

IMHO, the thick black stuff is the worst thing you can put on a chassis. Any 
peeling of the coating will let water in, when rust will take hold rapidly and 
unseen. I have bitter experience of that with an Austin Healey. You cannot 
reliably coat the inside of a chassis with a thick material, whereas Waxoyl can 
be sprayed in, warm, when it will creep over all the surfaces. It cannot suffer 
mechanical damage inside. The exterior can be primed, painted, and regularly 
and carefully hosed clean, especially between the top of the chassis and the 
floors.
Or you can be smug, like me, and have a galvanised chassis.:-) Then you can sit 
back and watch everything else try to corrode.:-( 

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 16:42:39 +0000 (GMT)
From: hugh.davies@rnb.com (Hugh J.E. Davies)
Subject: Re: The Money Pit...Redux

RICHARD_COLEMAN@fmso.navy.mil (RICHARD COLEMAN) writes;

             4. vehicle wobble at idle speed...my
         description...dealer says that tires are out of
         round AND I need new ROTORS and PADS all around.
         His price for this is $600+ for the fronts and
         $500+ for the rears. Any comments on the price or
         the fact that this vehicle only has 66K miles on
         it?

My '89 RR does this all the time. It comes and goes with
tyre wear. I wouldn't worry about it, myself.

Hugh.
-----
Hugh J.E. Davies, AVP Unix Support,
Republic National Bank, 30 Monument Street, London.
This is *NOT* an official publication of RNB.
Personal email to huge@axalotl.demon.co.uk, please.

------------------------------

From: HalatGRM@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 14:13:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Sun Hatches

>From: Andy Marshallsay <axmarsha@lag.mobil.com>
>Sun-hatches
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>Anyone have any experience and cost of either the dealer fit ones, or
>third party accessories.

With the 96 model year, Disco's were restricted to three option packages, SD
SE and SE7.  All I wanted was a base SD 5 speed with the sunrooves.  But to
get sunrooves and a 5-speed, I had to go all the way to an SE7.  I had the
dealer install one sunroof which I stipulated must be perfect before I paid
for the vehicle.  It's only been 2200 miles, but I've been completely
satisfied with the installation (no leaks, etc.)  The downside is that they
charged me $1200 (last year, $1600 would get you two rooves).  Be very very
careful, though, about who you let cut holes in the roof of a vehicle you
already own.

 > And with the bed
>liner, would a dog make a feast of the stowable one, or would the ABS
>one be more practical.

I bought the rubber loadspace liner for the back of my disco (~$130 from LR
Mission Viejo).  If your dog can chew through that thing, he's a tough
sumbitch.

How much is the dog guard?

Hal Hunnicutt
96 Disco

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 19:57:00 +0000
From: canford@dial.pipex.com (Peter Barton)
Subject: Nipples

AAHaaaa........Not what you were thinking,  these are bleeeeeding
nipples...you know,  the sort that lurk on the back of all brake drums    I
need a cunning plan to undo all four of the little blighters.  They're all
sized solid. I haven't sheared any yet, but am very close to doing so.
Therefore if anybody knows a cleaver way to release them I'd be glad to
know.

  P.S.  I've tried nipple cream, but my pharmacist tells me it only works
for nursing mothers.

P.P.S.  SIIa 1968

Regards,
.........................................................................
          Peter Barton            e-mail:  canford@dial.pipex.com
          Computer Dept.          Phone :  +44 (0) 1202 841254
          Canford School
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

------------------------------

From: "Neaves, Andrew" <ANDREWN@brkb11.agw.bt.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Cut-out Switch
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 20:38:00 GMT

It takes less than an amp and if I told you the best place then everyone 
will know!

best is move one of the existing dash switches to another location and then 
use what looks like a normal dash switch eg lights, heater, etc.

Regards

Andrew Neaves
 ----------
From: Michael Turpin
Subject: Cut-out Switch
Date: 19 March 1996 12:43

Hi,

I would like to fit a cut-out switch to my 2.5 Diesel, '85 110 SW and keep
it seperate from the alarm system.  Presumably the best place to connect it
is in-line with the fuel cut-off switch, does anyone know what kind of
current this switch takes when the ignition is turned on?
Also, any suggestions as to where to 'hide' the cut-out switch?

Any help or suggestions gratefully received.

Cheers
Mike

____________________________________________________________________________

                        Michael Turpin
                        Network Operations Section,
                        Network Group,
                        Information Systems Division,
                        Kathleen Lonsdale Building,
                        University College London,
                        Gower Street,
                        WC1E 6BT.

E-Mail: m.turpin@ucl.ac.uk                            Tel: 0171-380-7828

------------------------------

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