[ First Message Last
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
Send Submissions uk-lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net
------------------------------
[ Message 1 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 09:24:34 +0000
From: Ian Robinson <ian@fourx4.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Nipples
In message <ad760ef900021004dc72@[193.130.251.73]>, Peter Barton
>AAHaaaa........Not what you were thinking, these are bleeeeeding
>nipples...you know, the sort that lurk on the back of all brake drums I
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Therefore if anybody knows a cleaver way to release them I'd be glad to
>know.
No special technique that I know of but............I'd repeatedly soak
them over a period of a few days with 'plus gas' or similar. Use a good
fitting hexagonal socket on a long fixed bar and *tap* it progressively
*both* ways slowly using all the patience you can muster.
Unless you're lucky they're guaranteed to break and we do a good line in
whell cylinders mail order !!!
Regards, Ian
FOREST LANDROVERS' 4 x 4 CENTRE
Royal Forest of Dean, Glos, UK
+44 (0)1594 822606/(0)402 000132
http://www.star.co.uk/forest
------------------------------
[ <- Message 2 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
From: PETER ESTIBEIRO - CGR <PETERE@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 10:21:06 +0000
Subject: Re: Nipples
Peter
I know of a trick which is supposed to work every time (I've never
tried it myself so can't vouch from personal experience but a friend
tried it and was very impressed, we learned it from an elderly man in
the pub who has over 50 years experience of this sort of thing)
Pour a kettle full of *boiling* water over the nipple, the theory is
that the differential expansion rates of the alloy cylinder and the
steel nipple will crack the crap thats holding it in. Repeat if
necessary (I'm told it won't be). Perhaps a squirt of releasing
fluid after the water will also help, I don't know. Try it without
first.
If you try this please let me know whether it really works, it sounds
too good to be true.
Here's hoping
Peter.
------------------------------
[ <- Message 3 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 09:20:23 +0000
From: Ian Robinson <ian@fourx4.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Brake repairs questions
In message <199603191025.CAA12222@playground.sun.com>, Steve Reddock
<steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com> writes
>*** Resending note of 03/18/96 16:08
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>
>I have never seen the need to remove the top plate,
Agreed. It's always a little more difficult trying to do the job at the
keyboard rather than at the vehicle !! We remove the top plate is when
fitting an overdrive so that we can give the castlated nut a good clout
once the lock washers unfolded (with special tool number %%^&*$=A3)
Regards, Ian
FOREST LANDROVERS' 4 x 4 CENTRE
Royal Forest of Dean, Glos, UK
+44 (0)1594 822606/(0)402 000132
http://www.star.co.uk/forest
------------------------------
[ <- Message 4 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 11:08:15 GMT
From: "M.G.Forster" <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Subject: Smoothrite paint removal!
Does anyone know how to remove black Smoothrite paint from a galvinised bumper?
I feel like a change, the paint is flaking in parts so I want to get it off
without damaging the galvanising.
My 1973 Series III LWB safari passed its MOT this week, so the chassis they
said wouldn't last another year, 4 years ago is now OK for another 12
months. That should give me time to save up for a new chassis.
M.G.Forster
Senior Technician
School of Computing
Trent Building
Leek Road
Stoke-on-Trent
ST4 2AZ
Tel: 01782 29 4255
------------------------------
[ <- Message 5 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
From: "E D O'BRIEN" <bt5179@qmw.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 11:30:18 GMT0BST
Subject: SIII hand brakes and reconditioning swivels
a day or so ago I posted a quetion about fitting SIII handbrake
levers to a SIIA and from the answers I established that it was
possible and a fairly easy operation but does anyone happen to know
what a SIII lever would set me back!
thanks for all the answers to my last querry.
also some time ago I seem to remember something about being able to
fill in the pitting in the front ball swivels on a series Land Rover
using apoxy glue or something like that, is that right or am I just
imagining it? could someone tell me if this is possible as I have a
friend who wants to in some way recondition his swivels on his SIII
Land-Rover (answers to me please as he is not on this list thanks).
Ed.O'Brien (SIIA SWB 1963)
------------------------------
[ <- Message 6 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
From: "Paul Hazell" <p.hazell@worc.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 11:42:33 +0000
Subject: Perkins problems
Thanks for all the advice on the creamy mixture in my mates Perkins diesel. He
put a piece of card in front of the radiator and took it for a drive. The
creaminess went from the oil (an oil change is on the cards), so it looks like it
*was* condensation. I've suggested he gets a radiator muff and possibly a Kenlow
fan for the future.
Thanks for the advice - he is now a much happier man :-)
Paul Hazell (SIII Lt/wt 1972)
------------------------------
[ <- Message 7 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
Date: 20 Mar 96 07:07:57 EST
From: <Glen_Rees@parlon2.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: RE:-Subject: Smoothrite paint removal!
M.G.Forster writes:-
>Does anyone know how to remove black Smoothrite paint from a
>galvinised bumper?
>I feel like a change, the paint is flaking in parts so I want to
>get it off without damaging the galvanising.
Nitromor's paint remover will take most paints off but will not harm
galvanising.
An electric heat gun will also do the same. Do not use a blow lamp!
R 1 3 H
+--|--| FWD |
2 4 L '55 Series One
(25 YEAR TAX EXEMPT)
Glenn
------------------------------
[ <- Message 8 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
From: i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 13:10:25 GMT
Subject: Diesel transplant
Hi all
I'm still searching for a LWB for my trip to Africa and have a question
concerning this. I am planning on putting a reconditioned diesel engine
into the LWB (unless I get one which has a newly reconditioned one in
it). Should I look specifically for a diesel vehicle or is it just as
easy to transplant a diesel engine into a petrol vehicle? (It will be a
standard 2.25 or 2.5 diesel engine).
Can anyone with experience recommend a source of engine?
Cheers, Ian
P.S. If anyone has a LWB with good chassis and bad engine and/or
gearbox then I'm your man!!
------------------------------
[ <- Message 9 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 08:15:14 -0500
From: Steve_Cox@Delphi.Com
Subject: Re: Diesel shut off switch
Hi, I've been lurking from the states and enjoy the postings here.
On >Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 12:43:53 +0000
>From: Michael Turpin <M.Turpin@ucl.ac.uk>
>Subject: Cut-out Switch
>I would like to fit a cut-out switch to my 2.5 Diesel, '85
>110 SW and keep <SNIP>
Because you plan to fit a switch to keep the engine from being started there
should not be any great concern about alternator or battery grounding. As far
as size of a switch, let the size of the wire going to the fuel shut-off be the
guage for your additional one.
As to the best place to hide it... You might want to place it on the dash and
clearly mark it "Ejection Seat Control - Switch ON to ARM."
Regards,
Steve_Cox@Delphi.Com
Parkersburg, WV (USA)
Also, any suggestions as to where to 'hide' the cut-out switch?
Any help or suggestions gratefully received.
Cheers
Mike
------------------------------
[ <- Message 10 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
From: PETER ESTIBEIRO - CGR <PETERE@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 14:02:53 +0000
Subject: Re: Diesel shut off switch
Hi All
I've been trying to follow the postings about a diesel cut off switch
and am getting confused.
Am I right in thinking that the object is to install a switch in line
with the fuel shut off which will prevent the car from starting?
I have a diesel series III so am not used to electric fuel shut offs,
but I thought the electric ones opperated a solenoid valve and cut
off the diesel to stop the engine. Doesn't this mean the valve is
energised when shut so a similar anti-theft shut off would have to be
drawing current all the time it was operating? Or is the valve held
open when energised so that any electrical failure would shut the
switch and stop the engine, in this case it would be very easy to
wire an anti theft switch in series. I suppose it must be this way
round to work, easy when you sit down to think about it, can anybody
confirm this.
peter.
------------------------------
[ <- Message 11 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 14:33:56 GMT
From: "T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Cut-off switch
>From: Michael Turpin <M.Turpin@ucl.ac.uk>
>Subject: Cut-out Switch
>I would like to fit a cut-out switch to my 2.5 Diesel, '85
>110 SW and keep <SNIP>
Maplin sell a passive start interrupt device. Once fitted, a designated
switch must be operated before the starter solenoid can be operated,
although I suppose you could connect it to the fuel cut-off solenoid
instead. The advantage is that no additional switch is required; you just
tap into an existing one. I think it costs about 15 pounds.
-------------------------------------
Tom Stevenson gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station
Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel 01475 530581
Fax 01475 530601
-------------------------------------
------------------------------
[ <- Message 12 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 14:51:47 +0000 (WET)
From: Peter Venters <venters@atm.ox.ac.uk>
Subject: Diesel matters
Some brief rambles on a couple of diesel topics which have cropped up...
Ian asks: Should I look specifically for a diesel vehicle or is it just as
easy to transplant a diesel engine into a petrol vehicle? (It will be a
standard 2.25 or 2.5 diesel engine). Can anyone with experience recommend
a source of engine?
IMHO, the disadvantage of starting from a petrol version lies in the
number of little things which need sorting out, rather than in anything
major. These things include: fuel return line, fuel filter (or filters if
you are keen), wiring changes, throttle linkage changes, stop cable (if
appropriate), possibly modifying battery mounts, changing gear box mounts,
possibly changing front springs, replace ignition switch, wire in heater
plugs, possibly new exhaust pipe front section. You may also need to get a
bigger clutch if your donor vehicle has the smaller old SII petrol clutch.
None of these amounts to much on their own, but they can accumulate; I
suppose it just depends on how good your morale is :-)
There are many companies who advertise in LRO offering diesel conversions;
these would be one source of engines - sometimes these are not very old or
knackered before they get converted. I got my 2.25 diesel from Motor and
Diesel nr Cambridge, but that was about 7 years ago. If you do get a 2.25
engine, you may find it a good idea to try and get a 5 bearing version as
these have stronger crankshafts (the manual even allows you to regrind
them).
Peter asks: Or is the (fuel shut-off) valve held open when energised so
that any electrical failure would shut the switch and stop the engine.
The valve is indeed held OPEN by the current (about 1A in my case), so an
electrical cut-off can easily be installed. However, this would be pretty
easy to hot wire with just a wire from the battery to the shut-off valve
on the pump, so it may be a good idea to have a hidden mechanical fuel
shut off valve somewhere else in the fuel line. This would allow the
engine to start, but run for a short time only, until the fuel in the fuel
filter was used up. The engine would then stop and would (in many cases)
require priming before it would run again. This might well be a better
anti-theft device than an electrical device.
Hoping someone somewhere finds this of interest,
Peter (86" SI, now Perkins 4.182, was 2.25 diesel, was 2l petrol, no more
engine changes ever (...until the next time))
------------------------------
[ <- Message 13 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
Subject: unsubscribe uk-lro
From: David.Tinley@bbc.co.uk (Dave Tinley)
Date: 20 Mar 96 15:00:00 EST
unsubscribe uk-lro
------------------------------
[ <- Message 14 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 03:46:14 +0000
From: canford@dial.pipex.com (Computer Dept. Canford School)
Subject: Re:Nipples
THANKS for the replies guys.
I'll try the suggested methods over the weekend and let you know the outcome.
-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-
P.C.Barton
Canford School, Wimborne,Dorset,UK Tel.44(01)202 841254
e-mail canford@dial.pipex.com
-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-
------------------------------
[ <- Message 15 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
From: tblake@smtpgw1.bathhe.ac.uk
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 10:58:05 gmt
Subject: 110 Steering Box
Can anyone advise me on repair of my manual steering box.
Oil is leaking through the bottom seal. I've been quoted close to
œ200 for an exchange unit but also about œ3.00 for each of the two
seals. Is it possible to replace the seals without stripping the box ?
and if not is a box overhaul a difficult job ??
Any advice would be greatly appreciated,
Tim Blake
tblake@bathhe.ac.uk
1987 110 SW
------------------------------
[ <- Message 16 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 17:29:21 GMT
From: Carl Butler <cjb1000@cheng.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Wheelbraces
In reply to the posting about wheelbraces and wheelnuts that wouldn't come off;
I used to have an "x" style wheel brace for my old s11A - using this, along
with the starter handle as a "mysterious torque multiplier" I was always able to
get the nuts off. (It takes a little thought, but it is possible with the
right combination). As you may have guessed, this was discovered in the rain,
late one night......
Haven't had the fortune of finding out what I'll do with the 110 if the brace
they supply isn't good enough - no starter handle is there........
Cheers,
Carl
------------------------------
[ <- Message 17 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
Subject: unsubscribe uk-lro
From: David.Tinley@bbc.co.uk (Dave Tinley)
Date: 20 Mar 96 17:33:59 EST
unsubscribe uk-lro
------------------------------
[ <- Message 18 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
From: PETER ESTIBEIRO - CGR <PETERE@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 18:38:57 +0000
Subject: Tyre pressures
Hi All
Can anybody tell me what I should inflate my tyres to. I have a 109
Safari with 750X16 Olympic Steeltrek radials. I have them at about
30psi (I got them in December) which feels OK but someone suggested
it was a bit much. I don't want them to prematurely wear as it will
be some time before I can afford another set :-(
Any information would be appreciated
Thanks
Peter.
------------------------------
[ <- Message 19 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 20:44:44 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Smoothrite paint removal!
M.G,Forster wrote:
>Does anyone know how to remove black Smoothrite paint from a galvinised bumper?
>I feel like a change, the paint is flaking in parts so I want to get it off
>without damaging the galvanising.
I asked the same question a while ago. Most of the advice I got pointed in
the direction of a methyl chloride based paint remover. I found one at
Eastwood's called the Super Grade Aircraft and Automotive Paint Remover at
gbp 16,95 for 3,79 liters (August 95 catalogue). They claim it would not
damage galvanizing, but could not say anything about Birmabright since they
had no idea what that was. I will get the stuff in April and test it -
practically all the galvanized parts on my SI were painted over by a SPO!
Hope this helps
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)
------------------------------
[ <- Message 20 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 20:44:47 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: SIII hand brakes and reconditioning swivels
Ed -
>also some time ago I seem to remember something about being able to
>fill in the pitting in the front ball swivels on a series Land Rover
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>friend who wants to in some way recondition his swivels on his SIII
>Land-Rover (answers to me please as he is not on this list thanks).
LRO March 96 had a short piece on using Araldite (p. 148):
...This can be done by using Araldite to fill the pitting, having first
removed all traces of oil. Then it should be rubbed down with fine wet and
dry, taking care not to harm the remaining chrome, and finally polished with
Solvol Autosol. Fit new seals, which are cheap, and the job should last for
many miles. ...
Hope this helps
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)
------------------------------
[ <- Message 21 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 21:05:10 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Wheelbraces
Carl wrote -
>I used to have an "x" style wheel brace for my old s11A - using this, along
>with the starter handle as a "mysterious torque multiplier" I was always
able to
>get the nuts off. (It takes a little thought, but it is possible with the
>right combination). As you may have guessed, this was discovered in the
rain,
>late one night......
What I found useful was a combination of strong x-style wheel brace and the
car jack. If the nuts won't budge, jack the jack up to the height of the
nut, put the wheel brace over the nut with the x-arms as horizontal as
possible, rest the other end of the brace on the jack and then step on the
arm of the brace (I would usually recommend the left arm as you face the
vehicle). This will usually get the nut to turn; if it still doesn't, one
could jump in place and add to the torque that way. Weighing about 200
pounds/90 kilos helps. Needless to say, you want to put oil on your studs
before putting the nuts back on to make it easier the next time.
Regards
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)
------------------------------
[ <- Message 22 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 21:58:16 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: 4x2 L/R
What a coincidence - today some back issues of LRW arrived. I opened them
more or less at random and the first thing I saw was a caption saying "This
4x2 version of the Land Rover was not an off-roader, by any stretch of
imagination". So here's some info from the article (LRW September 94, p. 29):
Quote:
In 1957 Land Rover headed down an unusual cul-de-sac as the result of an
order by the War Office for a 4x2 Land Rover. Two types of 4x2 Series I were
ordered: one, a Utility Light, of which 655 soft-tops were ordered, and the
second, a Station Wagon, 20 of which were requested. The vehicle's purpose
was, according to the War Office specification, to transport up to seven
passengers and light equipment. The four-wheel drive was omitted since these
vehicles were only ever intended for administrative use, in schools and so
forth.
The 4x2 front axle is a straight tube with a flange welded to each end to
carry the swivel pin housing. A blanking plate is pressed into the end of
each housing to prevent loss of oil into the tube. Swivel pin and stub
assemblies are similar to those of the 4x4 and most parts are
interchangeable. An oil thrower is fitted to the end of each stub axle to
aid lubrication.
The 4x2 transfer box has no front output shaft or housing; instead, there's
a blanking plate. The low-range gera is not fitted, and the high-range gear
is locked into position by two sleeves fitted over the shaft. Early sleeves
were splined over their entire length and could be fitted either way; later
ones were splined on the outer edge only. The chassis was coloured black,
the body was green (no radical departures there) and galvanised sections
were left unpainted.
Unquote.
There's pictures and a few technical data. The info is part of a
Jeep/SI/Austin Champ comparison. Typos are mine, factual errors are theirs.
Regards
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)
------------------------------
[ <- Message 23 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 16:13:06 +0000
From: Ian Robinson <ian@fourx4.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: SIII hand brakes and reconditioning swivels
In message <7B302C4686@qmwcc5.qmw.ac.uk>, E D O'BRIEN <bt5179@qmw.ac.uk>
writes
>also some time ago I seem to remember something about being able to
>fill in the pitting in the front ball swivels on a series Land Rover
[ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>friend who wants to in some way recondition his swivels on his SIII
>Land-Rover (answers to me please as he is not on this list thanks).
Remove the swivel housing and *thoroughly* clean it and one of the old
seals if in reasonable condition. Place flange down in a vice. Mix up a
portion of araldite and paste onto the pitted areas of the swivel.
Apply even pressure to the seal and oscillate it around the ball so that
the araldite fills up the pitts. Allow to set and re assemble.
Cannot guarantee the results and we haven't done it commercially but
many have told me that it's quite a successful *bodge*.
Regards, Ian
FOREST LANDROVERS' 4 x 4 CENTRE
Royal Forest of Dean, Glos, UK
+44 (0)1594 822606/(0)402 000132
http://www.star.co.uk/forest
------------------------------
[ <- Message 24 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 21:56:51 -0500
From: Steve_Cox@Delphi.Com
Subject: Re: Diesel shut off switch
Hi, I've been lurking from the states and enjoy the postings here.
On >Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 12:43:53 +0000
>From: Michael Turpin <M.Turpin@ucl.ac.uk>
>Subject: Cut-out Switch
>I would like to fit a cut-out switch to my 2.5 Diesel, '85
>110 SW and keep <SNIP>
Because you plan to fit a switch to keep the engine from being started there
should not be any great concern about alternator or battery grounding. As far
as size of a switch, let the size of the wire going to the fuel shut-off be the
guage for your additional one.
As to the best place to hide it... You might want to place it on the dash and
clearly mark it "Ejection Seat Control - Switch ON to ARM."
Regards,
Steve_Cox@Delphi.Com
Parkersburg, WV (USA)
------------------------------
[ <- Message 25 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST
Input: messages 24 lines 912 [forwarded 38 whitespace 207]
Output: lines 720 [content 405 forwarded 24 (cut 14) whitespace 204]
Additional Information:
In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved
(by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
Useful commands for this are 'index uk-lro-digest' which returns a list of
files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc.
UK/EIRE World Wide Web Sites start at
http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html
(shadow) http://www.OpenMarket.com/personal/caloccia/lr/pages.html
ARC: http://www.apricot.co.uk/rel3/directory/rrr/arc.html
Scottish LROC: http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/SLROC/
Range Rover Register: http://www.apricot.co.uk/rel3/directory/rrr/index.html
Glamorgan Off-Road C: http://theo.sihe.ac.uk/~bird/Home.html
If Major Domo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net
-B
[ First Message
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 960321 ->
| Search
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]