The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Subject: Something electrical: NOT Positive earth
Date: Fri, 17 May 96 08:45:00 GMT

Has anyone ever found out why there is no mention of the heater blower   
wiring in the SIII wiring diagrams.  I had cause to sort my heater   
switch/wiring out recently.  But in the Haynes or Auto books manuals,   
 none of the SIII diagrams showed anything at all about the heater   
wiring.

Strangely, the only heater wiring I could find was on a military wiring   
diagram.

Another electrical query (sort of).  What is the cold start warning light   
used for on a petrol engined LR, and where is the switch that is meant to   
turn the function on (i.e. not the thermostat).

Cheers,

Trefor
tdelve@nectech.co.uk  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 09:31:34 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Something electrical: NOT Positive earth

>Has anyone ever found out why there is no mention of the heater blower
>wiring in the SIII wiring diagrams.  I had cause to sort my heater
>switch/wiring out recently.  But in the Haynes or Auto books manuals,
> none of the SIII diagrams showed anything at all about the heater
>wiring.
Doesnt in the factory 11A manual,either.*Or* the screenwash wiring.
I had always assumed that it was because they were optional extras
at the time,and the manuals dealt only with standard equipment.
But then again,I've only ever seen the Optional Equipment Manual
once,and got so fascinated with things like post hole borers etc,
that I clean forgot to look for mundane things like heaters.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "Seymour, Gareth" <GSeymour@mp.sihe.ac.uk>
Subject: squeals and mammals
Date: Fri, 17 May 96 09:45:00 PDT

In reply to Steve R.'s reply......

It could be small furry mammals in the chassis..as the cats are always 
climbing over the vehicle and the s.f.m.'s must hide in the chassis so they 
don't end up as an early meal.....

Gareth

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Something electrical: NOT Positive earth
Date: Fri, 17 May 96 9:48:38 BST

> Has anyone ever found out why there is no mention of the heater blower   
> wiring in the SIII wiring diagrams.  I had cause to sort my heater   
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Strangely, the only heater wiring I could find was on a military wiring   
> diagram.

Haven't looked on mine, but being FFR, the civvie diagrams bear little
resemblance to what I actually have!

 
> Another electrical query (sort of).  What is the cold start warning light   
> used for on a petrol engined LR, and where is the switch that is meant to   
> turn the function on (i.e. not the thermostat).

I have one of these, and it doesn't work. Yes, I've checked the bulb, but
just haven't had time to investigate things further. I thought it was just
a switch to remind you that you've got the choke out. In which case,
the switch should attached to the choke mechanism. If you find it, tell
me!  :-)

Richard   (ex-Gurkha SIII FFR)

------------------------------

From: Graeme Booth <Graeme.Booth@src.bae.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 09:27:18 +0100
Subject: Re..Something electrical: NOT Positive earth

>>>>> "Trefor" == Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk> writes:

    Trefor> Has anyone ever found out why there is no mention of the
    Trefor> heater blower wiring in the SIII wiring diagrams.  

Try looking in the Military 'User Guide to Lightweights' (!) - or
Owners Handbook as its more commonly known....

    Trefor> Strangely, the only heater wiring I could find was on a
    Trefor> military wiring diagram.

Exactly! That's what I meant

    Trefor> Another electrical query (sort of).  What is the cold
    Trefor> start warning light used for on a petrol engined LR, and
    Trefor> where is the switch that is meant to turn the function on
    Trefor> (i.e. not the thermostat).

Does this not provide an idiot warning light to tell you to push your
choke in. I have a fealling the switch itself is on the choke cable at
the dashboard end - however, I could be completely wrong.....

To what extent have you re-wired your V6? Is it as complicated and as
time-consuming as I imagine? Could a fairly non-electrically minded
person still be capable of doing the job without blowing up the Landy?

Graeme
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Graeme Booth 						     / \               
Applied Aerodynamics 				            /| |\  
BAe (Operations) Plc					   /\| |/\   
SRC, FPC 267, PO Box 5					  /\ | | /\  
Filton, Bristol BS12 7QW				 /__\|_|/__\ 
Tel:	(01179) 366745					/___________\
Fax:	(01179) 363733					     | |     
Email:	Graeme.Booth@src.bae.co.uk			     |_|
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

     

------------------------------

From: Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 17 May 96 10:12:00 GMT

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: Sorry! its tyres again. (fwd)
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 10:18:01 UNDEFINED

>I've been tempted to switch it to there and brake lightly when there's
>some idiot hiding almost out of view below the tailgate so I can give
>them a _really_ close look at the NATO hook (but then I think of the
>potential paperwork hassle and resist). 8-)

I find in a LR, momentarliy jabbing the brakes has a very satisfying efffect 
on tailgaters. And you're cast iron - it'd be their fault - they didnt even 
see the cat in the verge...........

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 10:28:07 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Sorry! its tyres again. (fwd)

>I find in a LR, momentarliy jabbing the brakes has a very satisfying efffect
>on tailgaters. And you're cast iron - it'd be their fault - they didnt even
>see the cat in the verge...........
Momentarily switching the tail lights on has a similar effect...idiots are
generally too thick to know the difference.Smokescreen generation helps as
well...
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 09:58:11 +0000 (WET)
From: Peter Venters <venters@atm.ox.ac.uk>
Subject: Speed

Can anyone remind me what the little set of 4 or 5 digits painted on the 
speedo mean? It gives the calibration, but I can't remember the units; 
it might be something like speedo drive revs per mile. And by the way, I am 
talking bounce-mobiles, not plush-mobiles  :-)

Peter 
86" 1955 S1

------------------------------

From: Glen_Rees@PARLON2.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM
Date: 17 May 96 06:15:37 EDT
Subject: CHOCKED UP WITH ELECTRICS

     >I have one of these, and it doesn't work. Yes, I've checked the bulb, 
     >but just haven't had time to investigate things further. I thought it 
     >was just a switch to remind you that you've got the choke out. In 
     >which case,
     >the switch should attached to the choke mechanism. If you find it, 
     >tell me!  :-)
     
     Mine works!
     On  the Series 1 2ltr there is a switch on the chock cable, and a 
     thermostatic switch at the back of the head. With the chock out & when 
     the thermostatic switch makes contact, the idiot light(s) up.
     I must admit, when I first purchased the old girl, it took me a while 
     to work it out.
     
     R  1  3        H
     +--|--|   FWD  |
        2  4        L            '55 Series One
                              (25 YEAR TAX EXEMPT)  
     
     Glenn

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Sorry! its tyres again. (fwd)
Date: Fri, 17 May 96 11:22:27 BST

> >I find in a LR, momentarliy jabbing the brakes has a very satisfying efffect
> >on tailgaters. And you're cast iron - it'd be their fault - they didnt even
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> generally too thick to know the difference.Smokescreen generation helps as
> well...

They, can be a problem, can't they?  Its strange, some people respect the
size of a Landy [a few weeks ago, in a village near Cambridge, lads in the
back - you should have heard the cheering - when a woman in a Suzuki
gave-way from about 1/4 mile away! :-) ], and others just don't understand
that *they* would be *my* crumple zone. As well as tailgaters, I hate those
that overtake into the space just infront of me. There's a reason why I'm
leaving a space...

Then I got tooted today because a BMW convertible decided to enter a
roundabout from the entrance to my right, *after* me, and didn't
like it because he met the exit at the same time as me. Shame he didn't
impale himself on my side, although I'd have had to touch my paint up.

Richard

------------------------------

From: Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Subject: MORE: Something electrical: NOT Positive earth
Date: Fri, 17 May 96 10:46:00 GMT

On the subject of the cold start warning light.

I accept that the switch is wired in series with the thermo switch, but   
why?

Surely if its function is to warn you that the choke is out, why have it   
related to temperature.  I would like to know that the choke is out what   
ever the temperature.  If its function is to advise you that it is cold   
and to use the choke, then this will either be enabled or disabled   
(depending on the switch type) when the choke position is changed.

Graeme,

As far as the wiring changes to the V6 - very few.  As far as re-wiring   
the LR - should be easy.  I have found that the biggest problem with LR   
wiring is that you have to try to understand what the PS's have done   
before.

Currently I am rewiring the full beam and spot light functions.  The PO   
had just wired the spots into the full beam wires behind the grill.  This   
resulted in the switch contacts buring out and thus losing full beam and   
eventually full beam flash - on a very dark, wet trip along the A4   
through Newbury.

The LR wiring principle is very basic.  There is a single wire running to   
the lights from the switch for headlights and similarly for full beam.   
 Clearly, if the fuse blows you will lose both left and right lights.   
 Modern (well less than 20 years old) cars have the left and right lights   
on different circuits and fuses.  So, if one lights causes the fuse to   
go, you will at least have one light left.  Clearly this leads to a more   
complicated loom and diagram.

Trefor
tdelve@nectech.co.uk

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Sorry! its tyres again. (fwd)
Date: Fri, 17 May 96 11:47:58 BST

> In article <9605140928.AA01163@doyle.digicon-egr.co.uk>,
> 	marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden) writes:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> >couldn't work them out (ex-mil. vehicle you see).
> Probably tried to check the brakes and indicators with CONV selected.

Could be.

Anyway, I've got it back from the second place. They gave me a new belt
and mended the exhaust. Its so much quieter now, and its a bit more obvious
what the problem with the running is. Misfiring - esp. when cold.
They reckon my points need adjusting or ignition is duff.
There's a clan gathering tomorrow, so I've told my brother to bring his
timing gear with him - but then he says he needs to check his engine too
(he's a heathen - a VW Camper). I've read the point stuff in
the books, and they say to use a hand-crank, which I don't have. My father
seems to think my brothers got all the bits we'll need though.
Perhaps the carburettor is okay after all?

If I get this sorted, and I have an electric fan waiting to go in, I 
might be able to break the national speed limit! Only thing is the speedo
will need repairing before I know that I've broken it...

Richard (ex-gurkha SIII FFR   + 12 months MoT!!)

------------------------------

From: "E D O'BRIEN" <bt5179@qmw.ac.uk>
Date:          Fri, 17 May 1996 12:00:16 GMT0BST
Subject:       Re: Sorry! its tyres again. (fwd)

> > >I find in a LR, momentarliy jabbing the brakes has a very satisfying 
> > >efffect

<SNIP>

> impale himself on my side, although I'd have had to touch my paint up.
> > >efffect

I don't know whether its just me but I find that everyone seems to 
get out of my way when I'm driving my SIIA through London but not 
when I'm driving along country lanes in Sussex, funy that, the 
exceptions of coarse are the London cabs and those old ford transit 
vans armed with bull bars who just cut you up mercilessly anyway.

Ed.O'Brien (SIIA SWB 1963 (849JPX))

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 07:46:43 EDT
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Tool definitions

*** Resending note of 16/05/96 13:13
It's Friday!!!!!!

Automotive Tools................

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
used as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive car parts not far from
the object we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of
cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxe
s
containing convertible tops or tonneau covers.

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their
holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling
rollbar mounting holes in the floor of a sports car just above the brake
line that goes to the rear axle.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more
dismal your future  becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads.  If nothing else is available,
they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of
your hand.

OXYACETELENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting those stale garage
cigarettes you keep hidden in the back of the Whitworth socket drawer
(What wife would think to look in there?) because you can never remember
to buy lighter fluid for the Zippo lighter you got from the PX at Fort Campbell

ZIPPO LIGHTER: See oxyacetelene torch.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
motorcycles, they are now used mainly for hiding six-month old Salems
from the sort of person who would throw them away for no good reason.

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and
flings your beer across the room, splattering it against the Rolling Stones
poster over the bench grinder.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere
under the workbench with the speed of light.  Also removes fingerprint whorls

and hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you to say,
"Django Reinhardt."

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering a Mustang to the ground after
you have installed a set of Ford Motorsports lowered road springs, trapping
the jack handle firmly under the front air dam.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a car upward off a
hydraulic jack.

TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.

PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor Chris to see if he has another
hydraulic floor jack.

SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for
spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and
is ten times harder than any known drill bit.

TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup
on crankshaft pulleys.

TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile
strength of ground straps and hydraulic clutch lines you may have forgotten to
disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool
that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end
without the handle.

BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid
from a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that
your battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

TROUBLE LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth.  Sometimes called a drop
light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is
not otherwise found under cars at night.  Health benefits aside, its main
purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that
105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the
Battle of the Bulge.  More often dark than light, its name is somewhat
misleading.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style
paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as
the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.

AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning
power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that
travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty suspensio
n
bolts last tightened 40 years ago by someone in Abingdon, Oxfordshire,
and rounds them off.

Steve Reddock, Xyratex       | Just as he thought he had
Ext.(01705) 486363 x5209     | clinched the interview he was
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)           | visited by the ghost of Usenet
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com | Postings Past.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 07:53:30 EDT
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: V6 wiring

Further to Trefor's comments about the wiring:

Changes for fitting a V6 (or any other petrol engine for that matter):

Add wire & switch for electric fan
Add electric fuel pump
Add 12V supply for electronic ignition if fitted
Remove solenoid & fit junction in it's place.

That's it,  apart from extending a few wires like oil pressure switches,
starter motor enable (solenoid is on starter), etc.

Engines don't need many wires.  Most wires on simple vehicles like LRs
are for the lights & instruments.

If you feel confident to attempt the job mechanically, the electrical
bits are easier (I think).

Anybody else going to the ARC nats?  Bank Holiday weekend, near
Brighton.

Have fun, Steve

Steve Reddock, Xyratex       | Just as he thought he had
Ext.(01705) 486363 x5209     | clinched the interview he was
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)           | visited by the ghost of Usenet
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com | Postings Past.

------------------------------

From: Graeme Booth <Graeme.Booth@src.bae.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 12:42:20 +0100
Subject: Idea!!!! + Re..MORE: Something electrical: NOT Positive earth

Idea is at the bottom of this.....

>>>>> "Trefor" == Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk> writes:

    Trefor> On the subject of the cold start warning light.
    Trefor> Surely if its function is to warn you that the choke is
    Trefor> out, why have it related to temperature.  

I always thought that it was related to temperature so that the
warning light comes on when the engine reaches a ceratin temperature
-> telling you that you don't need the choke anymore -> push it in!

    Trefor> If its function is to advise you that it is cold and to
    Trefor> use the choke, then this will either be enabled or
    Trefor> disabled (depending on the switch type) when the choke
    Trefor> position is changed.

The switch (if my memory serves me) is located ON the cable behind the
dash and (I think) operates via two protruding 'bits' that slot into
the cable. These 'bits' (technical isn't it!) are pushed upwards and
into the switch when the choke is pushed in - due to the increased
thickness of cable at the button end - switching off the light. Quite
simple really.

Oh, by the way.....my light doesn't work either! But I reckon the bulb
is gone......

    Trefor> As far as the wiring changes to the V6 - very few.  As far
    Trefor> as re-wiring the LR - should be easy.  I have found that
    Trefor> the biggest problem with LR wiring is that you have to try
    Trefor> to understand what the PS's have done before.

I had figured on removing the lot, labelling it (of course) and
re-connecting it outside the vehicle to do a full check on its
continuity. Replacement of cable and new connectors etc....I could go
on and on!

IDEA!
----
By the way (aside from this electrical stuff) are you aware of the
plumbing/heating type foam aerosols - the ones that are used to lag
pipes/boilers and which claim to prevent water seepage in/out? They're
available in most B&Q-type stores? Now, this is just an idea. What
would be the problems encountered if this foam was to entirely fill
the cavity inside the chassis, theoretically preventing any moisture
from entering and rusting away the inside. Similarly, for other
cavities like between door skins, or just as a soundproofing layer on
the underside of the seat-box, floor panels, etc....

OK people, hit me with the reasons against this!
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Graeme Booth 						     / \               
Applied Aerodynamics 				            /| |\  
BAe (Operations) Plc					   /\| |/\   
SRC, FPC 267, PO Box 5					  /\ | | /\  
Filton, Bristol BS12 7QW				 /__\|_|/__\ 
Tel:	(01179) 366745					/___________\
Fax:	(01179) 363733					     | |     
Email:	Graeme.Booth@src.bae.co.uk			     |_|
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

     

------------------------------

From: Glen_Rees@PARLON2.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM
Date: 17 May 96 08:16:57 EDT
Subject: Re: MORE: Something electrical: 

     The reason is;  that having pulled the choke out when cold, as the 
     engine warms up and reaches the normal running temperature, the light 
     comes on, telling you to push the choke in. If, on pulling the choke 
     out, the light came on, it is telling you that you do not require any 
     choke. How many drivers leave the choke out too long, sooting up the 
     plugs?

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
> Trefor
> tdelve@nectech.co.uk

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 14:18:43 GMT
From: Gerald Tan <gtan@bbchw.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re:Tool Definitions

Thank you Steve. Ever consider going home early on Friday?!!

Gerald
-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Gerald Tan    EMail gtan@bbchw.demon.co.uk                              |
| Purely my own opinions - not those of my employer                       |
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Sorry! its tyres again. (fwd)
Date: Fri, 17 May 96 16:39:15 BST

> I don't know whether its just me but I find that everyone seems to 
> get out of my way when I'm driving my SIIA through London but not 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> exceptions of coarse are the London cabs and those old ford transit 
> vans armed with bull bars who just cut you up mercilessly anyway.

Funny you should say that...
No, I haven't tried central London, but I have been through the centres of
Leeds and Cambridge (up Kings Parade with "Ride of The Valkyries" has to be
done - nice 3-point turn at the top, and back down again!!).
I'm LWB hardtop, so perhaps people treat me like a minibus or small van.
Good acceleration, but lightly built.

As for Sussex lanes: did that one last night! :-) Can't remember the lane,
but its near Crawley Down & Copthorne, on the way back from the MoT place.
All those bends + the rain too. Think I frightened some people coming the
other direction on the bends!   :-)

Richard

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 96 13:52:16 PDT
From: Arthur Morgan <morgan@icon.co.za>
Subject: rattles

Hello all,
	To find a rattle lift the car onto four axle stands and "drive" it 
slowly in a way similar to that which normally causes the rattle. Have a 
friend pinpoint the problem. this often helps.
	Arthur
-------------------------------------
Name: Arthur Morgan
E-mail: morgan@mail.icon.co.za (Arthur Morgan)
Date: 05/17/96   South Africa     Voice +11 942 1731
Time: 13:52:16                    FAX   +11 493 0169
-------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 18:25:31 +0200
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: The last word on positive earth

>From the other side of the pond and the LRO list:

Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 13:15:25 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: pos. neg. earth

Dear all,
        Although I understand the agrument behind the pos. earth, neg.
earth corrsion stuff. I have to say that having delt with Rovers from many
parts of the UK and US, I have never seen a noticable increase or decrease
in corrosion on original pos. earth Rovers. In taking them apart for
restoration, the areas of corrosion and extent of that corrosion seems to
be the same if the vehicle is an untouched original, or something converted
to neg. earth long ago. Just an obversation.
        See ya.

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

From: RALPH@SMUGGITS.MHS.CompuServe.COM
Date: 17 May 96 15:13:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Full of it! Foam that is.

IDEA!

----

By the way (aside from this electrical stuff) are you aware of the

plumbing/heating type foam aerosols - the ones that are used to lag

pipes/boilers and which claim to prevent water seepage in/out? They're

available in most B&Q-type stores? Now, this is just an idea. What

would be the problems encountered if this foam was to entirely fill

the cavity inside the chassis, theoretically preventing any moisture

from entering and rusting away the inside. Similarly, for other

cavities like between door skins, or just as a soundproofing layer on

the underside of the seat-box, floor panels, etc....

OK people, hit me with the reasons against this!<<

The only problems I can see with this  is what happens if it catches 
fire, It'll also probably turn to powder with vibration, but I'm not 
sure. Essentially it is a good idea, so long as there is no water in 
there when you do it. In fact filling the frame will actually strengthen 
it, as well as the structural strength of the foam (pretty minimal) the 
pressure it exerts on the chassis will actually prevent it from flexing, 
thus reducing the chances of it cracking if given a knock. This process 
has been used quite succesfully in bicycle components to make ultra-light 
components out of composite and thin walled steel. I can't promise the 
same for your landy, but it's an idea.

You should get some anyway, it looks like good fun to play with.

Ralph.

101 FC.

------------------------------

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(shadow) http://www.OpenMarket.com/personal/caloccia/lr/pages.html

ARC:			http://www.apricot.co.uk/rel3/directory/rrr/arc.html
Scottish LROC:		http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/SLROC/
Range Rover Register:	http://www.apricot.co.uk/rel3/directory/rrr/index.html
Glamorgan Off-Road C:	http://theo.sihe.ac.uk/~bird/Home.html

If Major Domo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

  -B