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From: Gordonkerr@aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 04:18:55 EST
Subject: V8 Manuals

Hi all,

Can anyone help me with information about V8 manuals (books that is not
gearboxes!)

I have the owners handbook for my 90 which gives a little info and also a
Haynes manual (which is typical Haynes but engine wise only covers the
diesels)

I'm looking for something with a bit more info.

LRO and LRW both offer reprints of the workshop manual at about 42 ukp but I
think these might be over the top for me (I'm no mechanic and I'm not about to
start on an engine rebuild and I'd really rather be saving that amount of
money towards parts!)

LRW also offer a workshop manual:owners edition at about 17 ukp. The price of
this seems better but anyone know what its like or can anyone suggest anything
else. If it only covers the engine that would be OK as I can probably make do
with Mr Haynes offering for most of the rest.

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Gordon

98 Disco Tdi Safari - 87 90 County V8 - Bedford

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 11:03:12 +0100
Subject: Re: V8 Manuals

Maybe the Series III parts catalogue would help - this has diagrams of
everything, including the V8 items.

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
website				    www.channel6.dk
"Native Experience" - production unit in Alaska USA
telephone			     (907) 230 0359
e-mail				channel6@alaska.net
Visit the "Native Experience" project website at
http://www.channel6.dk/native

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From: TORSTEN NILSSON <torsten.nilsson@lm.lrf.se>
Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 13:02:11 -0800
Subject: subscribe lro mailing list

subscribe lro mailing list

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 17:35:04 +0100
Subject: Flushing?

I have just stripped my 109" diesel today - the radiator (which was new
last year) was full of brown crud. I flushed the rad with a garden hose,
same with the heater coil. After a quarter of an hour with clean water
as input, the output is also clean.

But what about the engine - should I flush this before painting and
rebuilding?

I haven't yet disconnected the hoise between the thermostat and the
pump, I now have the engine with four water open holes - the two to the
radiator and the two to the heater flow/return. Does anyone have a
suggestion as to the best way to flush - where should the water come
in/out?

What does the list think?

Adrian Redmond

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From: Dale Smith <smithd@bunt.com>
Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 18:42:32 +0100
Subject: re; flushing

I have just stripped my 109" diesel today - the radiator (which was new
last year) was full of brown crud. I flushed the rad with a garden hose,
same with the heater coil. After a quarter of an hour with clean water
as input, the output is also clean.
But what about the engine - should I flush this before painting and
rebuilding?
I haven't yet disconnected the hoise between the thermostat and the
pump, I now have the engine with four water open holes - the two to the
radiator and the two to the heater flow/return. Does anyone have a
suggestion as to the best way to flush - where should the water come
in/out?
What does the list think?
Adrian Redmond

Don't know enough about the 109 to know where the best flush would be. I
would difinitely flush it though. If you have that much crud in the rad
it has to be in the block as well.
Smitty

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From: Kevan Shaw <kevan@kevan-shaw.com>
Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 18:51:45 +0000
Subject: Gearbox Woes

All of a sudden, ( on New Years eve to be precise!) my gearbox only has
third gear and he lever is well stuck. It also won't allow me to select
overdrive, this is well stuck too! Any ideas where I need to start
looking for problems and should I be looking for an exchange box or is
there likely to be something easy to deal with. 

If I need an exchange box any suggestions for good suppliers, I have
[spamkill: [Mm]erchant input: %s]	 heard that some recon merchants just 
swop bits between duff boxes till

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From: "Rob Smith" <rob@archenland.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 19:03:58 -0000
Subject: RE: V8 Manuals

Two problems: the parts manual misses out vital information like torque
settings; and the V8 in the Stage One is not the same in many details as
those used in later beast, especially when one gets to the 'EFI' and later
engines.
If the seventeen quid book is the same as the one I've got, it is fair,
giving a bit more info than the 'Haynes' book, and it does cover the V8 in
outline.  There is at least one book devoted to the V8, but I can't recall
who the publishers are.

Rob Smith
Mine's the blue 110

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From: Andy <andyb@lrover.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 19:11:23 +0000
Subject: Not much leaf spring travel (was 8-spoke wheels)

In message , Tim Burt <tim@muddyweb.co.uk> writes
>Any LR spares place could do you extended spring shackles, get the ones for
>a 1 tonne Series 3.  These will add a fair bit of lift.

I've got the extended shakles fitted to the rear of my IIA and it does
give about an inch or so extra lift, note, this is different to getting
more articulation, this can *only* be achieved with longer springs. I
only fitted the longer shackles to get more departure angle for trialing
(with a non-ARC club BTW, so I can't comment on ARC legality here).

I would personally advise *against* fitting extended shakles to the
front becuase this will make the nose of the front diff point towards
the ground and will upset your front prop UJs not to mention the track
rod ends. 

However, about the original problem. Here is what I would check. Did you
leave the bolts at each end of the spring and in the shackle lose and
only tighten after lowering your LR to the ground ? Not doing this could
leave the spring resting in a 'pre-loaded' attitude, i.e. flexed upwards
a little. Did you replace all the spring bushes, even those in the
chassis ? (This is probably start any other thread on the best way to
remove them <grin>). Do you have the right springs ? This may sound
silly, but there are quite a few ;-)

HTH, at least a little. 

Andy ( Series IIA & 200Tdi Disco)

http://www.lrover.demon.co.uk. 

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From: "Dave White" <dave@bang.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 20:20:43 -0000
Subject: Re: V8 Manuals

>Maybe the Series III parts catalogue would help - this has diagrams of
>everything, including the V8 items.

Still 20 quid or there abouts. The 90 Partsd catalogue would probably be
better!

(The parts catalogues have pictures of how everything goes together, you
then just missing things like torque settings and service info).

The owners manual for my V8 S111 tells me all the service stuff and where to
find all the filler/drain/level plugs this would probably be best, I got
mine for a couple of quid from P.A.Blanchards in Market Weighton
(Shiptonthorpe) they will mail order. If they cannot get one for a V8 90
then probably the Stage1 SIII V8 would do you if you just want to service
the engine (and yours has carbs on it).

Dave White
'82 V8 Stage 1 SW (Light Green)
'69 2.6 LWB 2A (in bits)

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From: Keir Hague <keir@whaleyb.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 00:34:18 +0000

>From: "Tim Burt" <tim@muddyweb.co.uk>
>Just a note :  (especially to keep Geoff happy)  anything of this nature
>(i.e. Body panel mods, suspension mods, wheel changes) will almost certainly
>give your insurance company an excuse not to pay you.   Make sure they know
>what you have done.

I am with the NFU insurance, and every time that I ring to tell them
about changes that I have made to my Series 3 SWB (truck cab, 750's,
roll cage, V8, etc.) they just seem to say "Yeah Whatever, it's OK with
us"  Does anybody else have the same experience, or is it just the
office that I use?  Also, does anybody know what are they like at paying
out?

Many thanks.
-- 
Keir Hague

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