The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: "Dave White" <dave@bang.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 12:13:55 -0000
Subject: Re: 

>about changes that I have made to my Series 3 SWB (truck cab, 750's,
>roll cage, V8, etc.) they just seem to say "Yeah Whatever, it's OK with
>us"  Does anybody else have the same experience, or is it just the
>office that I use?  Also, does anybody know what are they like at paying
>out?

No that is the normal reaction....

Dave White
'82 V8 Stage 1 SW (Light Green)
'69 2.6 LWB 2A (in bits)

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From: "Rob Smith" <rob@archenland.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 16:20:46 -0000
Subject: RE: 

Sounds the same as when I insured my 110 last year(!).
Question : "Has it been modified?"
Answer : "Yes, its got a winch, had windows put in the rear sides, and bench
seats put in; an intercooler fitted, along with rear discs, and 238/85x16
tyres on white 8 spoke steel rims"
Response: "Its pretty standard then isn't it?  Just don't put alloys on it,
they get stolen too often for us to consider standard fit on your 10 year
old LR."
I then asked what they would charge if I put a V8 in: "Nothing, so long as
its a Rover one".
Thought: "Where's that RPI modified 4.6?"
Realistic attitude or what?
Needless to say they got my money, unlike the crowd who started off cheaper
(by 5 pounds) and ended up over a hundred more expensive when they heard
about the winch - never mind the rest off the kit.

I've not had to claim from them, but my brother has had at least one new
roof rack from them, no questions asked, apart from "You weren't taking part
in a competition at the time?"

Rob Smith
Mine's the blue 110

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From: "Bruno Jansen" <gi31520@online.be>
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 18:35:24 +0100
Subject: V8 maual

Land Rover part number: LZA OMEN V8A
Title: Overhaul manual V8 engine
21 pages
Bruno Jansen
Hoboken
landrover.defender.110@usa.net

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From: The Bickertons <Bickerton@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 15:44:33 -0500
Subject: Re: 8-spokes

>I would try to sort out those springs. Try re-setting them.
What's this?

Just for the record, I've no quibbles about articulation (at least, not at
the back...), just ride height. One wheels catches loudly on the
strengthening ribs, the other hangs low enough to look like it's fallen off
(it would break a checkstrap if there was one (don't worry, the brake lines
are the longest available, so they're fine...) BTW, I'm insured with NFU,
and they don't seem to mind if you modify so long as you tell them.

>The arches have a
>return folded all around the arch
I was going to try to recreate this with pliers. Maybe.

Thanks for the advice,
John B

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 13:17:32 -0000
Subject: Re: 

Keir,
that's the NFU right down the line. Never had a problem with them. I've not
claimedmyself but friends who have say they are spot on.
I've had many happy years business with the NFU and always recommend them.

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 22:47:37 +0100
Subject: To galv or not to galv?

I have just finished stripping my 109" - not it's just axles,
suspension, motor and gearbox on the frame. Axles have to come off
anyway for service.

Despite the 1976 vintage, the chassis is in good condition - I am sure
I'll find a couple of small holes underneath in the middle (near the
exhaust as usual I expect) - but otherwise all OK.

But - having got this far - I'm seriously considering stripping the
entire frame and having it galvanised (a new chassis, whilst affordable
is not an option in Denmark due to tax regulations - it would have to be
registered as a new vehicle - and subjected to import duty!)

So the question is - is it worth it? Can I get a good hot dip
galvanising of a 1976 frame, the inside of which is certainly rusty and
full of crud/waxoyl (I have never used waxoyl, but I am sure the PO
might have when it was new). A galv job isn't worth much unless the
inside is thouroughly galvanised - or is it? Does a preceding acid dip
(or whatever they do here in Denmark) guarantee a good job inside? Would
the chassis need extra holes to allow galv inside?

Or is it better / worth it to just metalise the outside by spraying it
with fluid zinc?

Or should I save that for another day (year) and just repaint as usual
(the old paint - most of which is 3 - 5 years old looks fine - not much
rust or flaking).

Has anyone tried this on an older 109" chassis and have good (or bad)
experience or words of wisdom to offer?

What pitfalls are there involved if I choose to galv it?

Thanks

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
website				    www.channel6.dk
"Native Experience" - production unit in Alaska USA
telephone			     (907) 230 0359
e-mail				channel6@alaska.net
Visit the "Native Experience" project website at
http://www.channel6.dk/native

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From: "Loz" <loz@loz.softnet.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 23:39:02 -0000
Subject: Re: To galv or not to galv?

Just an idea....

why not come to UK on holiday...get the landy re-chassised....no one will
know as VIN plate attached to bulkhead. so long as you don't tell
anyone...can anyone know? can you be taxed? I doubt it.

This is just a hyperthetical suggestion of course....i would never suggest
that you or anyone evades paying tax...

Loz - who pays lots of tax!!

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