The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 08:20:21 -0000
Subject: Re: More advise

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From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 08:23:24 -0000
Subject: Re: Handbrake woes

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From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 08:29:49 -0000
Subject: Re: butt up but not overlap?

Get the chassis maker to stamp youreisting chassis number on the chassis at
manufacture, before galvanising it, then say it was the original chassis
beed blasted and galved!...how are they to prove otherwise?
I would expect that with the correct legal documntation they chassis maker
might oblige.

Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin

This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.

EMail      geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).

'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits

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From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 08:37:10 -0000
Subject: Re: D90 anti-roll bars

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From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 08:50:51 -0000
Subject: Re: AAD Safari

.>You know how gullible us 'mericans are... we'll buy just about anything!

You said it... the Series on in LRO this month was sold as a military one,
It wasnt.
The "owner" said he had fitted the S11 engine, he had'nt

It was owned by a guy in my office, so I got to hear the real story....

The new owner is getting a letter  from my mate...
He should have got the reg and address of the previous owner and phoned
him!...

.>I'm always leery when I see the various ad in LRO/LRM/LRW saying they'll
buy
.>old LR's in any condition.  I guess they're fixing them up to some unknown
.>condition and selling them here and there.

.>I'm be more willing to trust you guys to help me locate what I really
want:
.>an early '70's Series III Dormobile!

Dead Right mate... But even so check up with the previous owner to check out
the story!..Unless that can prove they have owned it for years!..

DLVA at Swansea can give you some details if you aproach them nicely, and
can show just cause for requiring the info.
DVLA =  Driver and Vehicle Licencing Agency (Gov Dept).

Start at...

http://www.open.gov.uk/dvla/

Hope this helps..

Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin

This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.

EMail      geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).

'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits

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From: "Davidge, Anthony" <antony_davidge@merck.com>
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 04:25:56 -0500
Subject: understanding partner

Matthew some where near Heathrow asked how long to the conversion - well the
beastie is going in on the 20th of January and should be ready to pick up 7
days later, some hopefully on the 28th I can tell everyone how much I like
it.

I'll look out for the sediment bowl thanks for the advise.

Tony

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From: d.p.round@bangor.ac.uk
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 09:26:01 GMT
Subject: Re: More advise

> >1. Someone recently suggested the problem with my fuel gauge reading full
> >all the time may be due to the voltage regulator.  How can I check this?
> The guage reading full could be caused by the cable shorting to the
> chassis... go to the top of the tank, remove the wire from the guage, if it
> falls to the bottom it is probably the sender unit, either broke or stuck,
> if not can you measure the voltage on the wire? If the reg is working I
> think it should go up and down, not permanently 12V..... if it does read
> 12Vish then yes your reg is probably knackered, what does the temp guage do?

That doesn't sound right. A regulator will try and keep the applied voltage
constant in most circumstances. Unless you have good reason to believe
otherwise assume the sender is bust - I have seen a good few of those
and nothing else. You can test the sender either by removing all the 
wires and using a multimeter on resistance setting - the sender is only
a variable resistor. As you move the float the reading should change 
smoothly. (You may need to take the sender out to test it) or you can
use the meter in voltage mode on the wire going to the gauge - again the
reading should change smoothly.

You can fix senders (they are very expensive) but keep in mind that
this thing lives in an explosive environment, mistakes could be bad
for your health!
> >1. Someone recently suggested the problem with my fuel gauge reading full
> >all the time may be due to the voltage regulator.  How can I check this?
******        David Round - EMail  round@bangor.ac.uk             ******
*****These are my own views, I represent nobody (Well maybe myself)*****
***********I guarantee nothing - Particularly the spelling**************

       

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From: "Tim Guy" <Tim@hurtwood.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 09:27:53 -0000
Subject: A common tyre question (Sorry)

Hi

My tyres failed the MOT (big tear in one of the walls). Everyones said go
for the 235 16 Trace Edge. My friendly land rover place can only get them
for £550 (wheels+fixed+vat+tubes). I found a place which has them for £420
for the same deal.

My old tyres are 15" 10.50's which are quite chunky, Are the 235 16 sexy???
or abit girlie??

Also, Anyone got any other good ideas for cheap(ish) tyres??

Thanks

Tim
90 TD

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From: "Iain Tennant" <i.r.tennant@dundee.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 09:32:20 GMT
Subject: Re: Understanding partner

In response to....
::little more. So I've taken the plunge and booked the 'Blue Beastie' 
::in for a 300tdi and R380 conversion. :+)

Mathew wrote...
: Good on ya...
: It's the same conversion I did a while back, one word of advice, 
make sure you get a sedimenter bowl fitted into the fuel line as it 
:doesn't come with the kit and you might not have had one to start
: with. For the sake of a small extra cost, it's well worth 
:protecting your engine. I've only just realised mine didn't have one 
:(found out when I tried to find it...) so I'll be putting one in 
:mine as soon as it reaches the top of my URGENT list of jobs :-)

A sedimenter isn't a standard fitting on the 300 in the UK.   I asked 
our dealer about this about 2 years ago (after looking in vain for 
it where the manual said it should be).  Their reasoning was that in 
general the quality of diesel here is good and the filter alone was 
more than adequate if changed at the recommended intervals.  Anyone 
with bad experiences with dirty fuel?

Regards,

Iain

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From: "Joost Kramer" <jkramer@best.ms.philips.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 10:41:35 +0100
Subject: Re: A common tyre question (Sorry)

>My old tyres are 15" 10.50's which are quite chunky, Are the 235 16 sexy???
>or abit girlie??

Why 235? There is also 7.50 x 16 of trac edge. These have a little bigger
diameter -> faster, better ground clearance.

>Also, Anyone got any other good ideas for cheap(ish) tyres??

No, I've used very cheap pneumants, but they last for only 5000 miles.....

Joost

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From: "Collins, Andy" <adc44128@GlaxoWellcome.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 09:59:13 -0000 
Subject: RE: The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

	Matthew wrote;

	> Subject: Handbrake woes

	 > After a long run on the motorway (most times but not always) my
handbrake is 
	 > very stiff when I first lift the lever, however afterwards it is
fine. Could it be sticking slightly? 
	 > It only started doing this after the gearbox / x-fer box /
handbrake were removed from the vehicle a 
	 > while ago.

	 > TIA
	 > Matthew
	 > UK, nr Heathrow
	 > 1979 2-dr Range Rover 300Tdi

	 there should be no problems at all after the gearbox/x-fer box/
handbrake have been removed from the vehicle- and jogging down the motorway
is illegal with or without all that stuff strapped to your back !!!!!!!!!

	a nony mouse- please forgive sarcasm- mid-week blues!.

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From: "Tim Guy" <Tim@hurtwood.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 10:06:15 -0000
Subject: Re: A common tyre question (Sorry)

>>My old tyres are 15" 10.50's which are quite chunky, Are the 235 16
sexy???
>>or abit girlie??
>Why 235? There is also 7.50 x 16 of trac edge. These have a little bigger
>diameter -> faster, better ground clearance.

Cause I really dont know what im talking about! Are they alot of expensive??

>>Also, Anyone got any other good ideas for cheap(ish) tyres??
>No, I've used very cheap pneumants, but they last for only 5000 miles.....

I know what feeling, My marshals (or be it muds) only lasted 4-5k

Tim

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From: Mike<MIKE@vrsolns.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 09:51:25 +0000
Subject: Re: More advise

Geoff wrote:

> Usually the voltage regulators regulate down to about 7 , or 8 volts hence a
> 12v feed to the gauge will make it read high.
> The varying voltage available (10 to 16 volts) depends on engine revs and
> the state of the battery and the load on it. Hence the use of a regulator.

No! The regulator provides a switched on/off "12 volt" output the 
ratio of the on:off periods being dependent on both ambient 
temperature and battery voltage. The repetition period is of the 
order of a few seconds and if you watch the hot-wire instruments 
closely, corresponding small period movements of the needle can 
sometimes be seen. 

The regulator is a bi-metallic strip with a contact and a heater and 
is usually mounted close to the instruments. In this way it can 
compensate for the increased heat loss from the hot wire instruments 
as the temperature falls etc. I don't think it works too well  but 
I've not seen what happens without the compensation.

Regards,

Mike

================================
Mike Gavins
Virtual Presence Ltd
Chester House
79 Dane Road
Sale
Cheshire  M33 7BP
United Kingdom
  Tel: +44 161 969 1155
  Fax: +44 161 969 1166
  Email: m.gavins@vrsolns.co.uk
================================  

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From: "Tim Guy" <Tim@hurtwood.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 10:11:42 -0000
Subject: Re: A common tyre question (Sorry) (And in english)

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From: "Joost Kramer" <jkramer@best.ms.philips.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 11:54:03 +0100
Subject: Re: A common tyre question (Sorry)

>Cause I really dont know what im talking about! Are they alot of
expensive??

Some product info can be found at http://www.tyres-online.co.uk/4wdtyre.htm

I am searching for Michelin 7.50 R 16 C 4x4 O/R XZL TL 108N.

Joost

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From: d.p.round@bangor.ac.uk
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 10:55:47 GMT
Subject: Re: More advise

>No! The regulator provides a switched on/off "12 volt" output the 
>ratio of the on:off periods being dependent on both ambient 
>temperature and battery voltage. The repetition period is of the 
>order of a few seconds and if you watch the hot-wire instruments 
>closely, corresponding small period movements of the needle can 
>sometimes be seen. 

Not all landrovers were fitted with hot-wire gauges so it seems
likely that there would be different regulators for the different
gauge. The fuel gauge fitted to my SIII (and SIIA IIRC) appeared to
be a moving coil meter. A linear regulator would make a lot more
sense with this type of meter. A pulse regulator with a frequency
below 1Hz would not work.

******        David Round - EMail  round@bangor.ac.uk             ******
*****These are my own views, I represent nobody (Well maybe myself)*****
***********I guarantee nothing - Particularly the spelling**************

       

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From: Simon Minshall <simon@cinesite.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 11:18:25 +0000
Subject: melted thrust bearings

On the way back to London from Skelmanthorpe, a screeching noise started
coming from my D-reg 2.5 90TD every time I pressed the clutch pedal. It
got progressively worse. After a while I couldn't shift to neutral
without a good tug on the lever. The pedal only partially declutched the
engine, just enough to keep the LR in gear at a dead stop without
stalling. To change gear it was easier to break to a halt with the LR
vibrating, switch off, select 3rd gear, switch on and accelerate off
slowly.

I took it to Bill Long at WJA who took the engine out to see what was
going on. I already thought the thrust bearing was the cause of the
noise, he said it had melted form the friction, the push rod was bent,
and various other bits were in the bottom of the pan.

He thinks that the cause is most likely a cheap and cheerful thrust
bearing installed by the previous owner's mechanic. The same mechanic,
in Great Dunmow, that installed the rear propshaft backwards. 

Anyway, It looks like I need a complete new clutch at a cost of 160
pounds plus lots of labour.

Damn.

Lesson learned: Don't skimp on the quality of components.

SImon

-- 
Simon Minshall                              
Imaging Systems Engineer                    9 Carlisle Street
Cinesite Digital Studios                    London    W1V 5RG
http://www.cinesite.co.uk                   tel:0171-973-4000
mailto:simon@cinesite.co.uk                 fax:0171-973-4040

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From: Simon Minshall <simon@cinesite.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 11:41:18 +0000
Subject: Second fuel tank on a 90TD

Has anyone on the list installed a second fuel tank on a 90?

I'd like to be able to take on more fuel to extend the range between
fill-ups.

The current tank is mounted beneath the driver's seat. If I could mount
another tank underneath the passenger's seat, where could the battery be
relocated to?

Has anyone done this? Are there any glaring disadvantages to doing this?

SImon

-- 
Simon Minshall                              
Imaging Systems Engineer                    9 Carlisle Street
Cinesite Digital Studios                    London    W1V 5RG
http://www.cinesite.co.uk                   tel:0171-973-4000
mailto:simon@cinesite.co.uk                 fax:0171-973-4040

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From: chris.mokes@symbian.com
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 11:55:57 GMT
Subject: Re: Second fuel tank on a 90TD 

     How about mounting it at the back.   I seem to remember reading that 
     the new defender 90s have the tank at the back and also the NAS ones.  
     With a bit of luck it may be possible to do it all with standard 
     parts.  Could be dreaming of course..
     
     If you do it, let us know how difficult it was.  I tend to fill up 
     every 100 miles with my 90 :-( so another tank would be good (for the 
     range not the pocket).
     
     Chris
     

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From: "T.D.I.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 12:41:40 -0000
Subject: Re: Second fuel tank on a 90TD

I had thought about a second tank, but the problems invoved in plumbing in
valves, gauges etc and sorting out the fuel return to the correct tank to
prevent overfilling put me off. My 90 TD manages just over 300 miles on a
full tank; I have fixings for 2 jerrycans in the back which add another 250
to the range. These have the major advantage of being much cheaper than a
fixed tank, and were easy to fit.
Tom Stevenson
University Marine Biological Station, Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel: 01475 530581  Fax: 01475 530601  Email: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
Web page: http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine/

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 22:39:36 -0000
Subject: Re: Understanding partner

Anthony,
er.. about this selling your body bit.. if you're still coming up in a
coupla weeks time I should say that we've no spare  money in this part of
the world :-)>
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: Simon Kinsella <simon@sendit.se>
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 13:54:33 +0000
Subject: An alternative to the local tip?

Hello all,

I've often thought it might be quite useful if there was some kind of forum on 
the
net where people could offer their old scra... er, I mean surplus, Land Rover
spares. Does such a place exist? I for one have a steadily increasing stock of
serviceable bits 'n' bobs that I would rather give/swap/sell with other
enthusiasts than chuck in the local landfill. Somehow I suspect I'm not the only
one...

I know from observing other mailing lists in the past that private ad's are 
often
frowned upon. What's the position here?

simon - SIIA.

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From: "Tim Burt" <tim@muddyweb.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 14:17:25 -0000
Subject: Re: An alternative to the local tip?

Have a look at www.muddyweb.co.uk

There is a section designed just for you called the parts exchange.

Cheers,

Tim Burt
www.muddyweb.co.uk 

> Does such a place exist? I for one have a steadily increasing stock of

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From: City of London School <RJM@cls.city-of-london.sch.uk>
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 16:00:02 -0800
Subject: Modular wheels

Am I right in thinking that 'modular' wheels can be unbolted and split
into two to make tyre changing easier, or am I getting them mixed upwith
something else?

Rich.
-- 
Richard Maynard
City of London School Design and Technology

rjm@cls.city-of-london.sch.uk
101723.414@compuserve.com

1984 V8 110 CSW (Vroooom!)

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From: "Peter Dowson" <Peter.Dowson@softwareag.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 16:21:33 -0000
Subject: Re: Modular wheels

On earlier landrovers, dismantleable wheels used to be known as split rims.
Whether the terminology changed with later versions to modular is beyond my
knowledge.

Peter Dowson
S1 80"

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 17:25:52 +0100
Subject: Repairing fuel senders

If you are driving a petrol landie, and the sender is bad, then replace
it - if its "only" a diesel, then try and fix it.

By removing the sender and opening the sardine-tin-like flanges, the lid
comes off - under this is a brass axle, which is grounded, and which is
the "common" side of the circuit. Attatched to this is a brass strip as
a wiper, which, then moved by the float which is fixed to a long wire
arm through the axle, wipes against a variable resistor strip which is
fixed onto a bakelite plate - the back of the unit from which you
removed the lid.

There are typically two problems - 1. the wiper isn't touching the
resistor strip (take it apart, bend the wiper so that it has adequate
tension, remount) or the wiper arm has come loose from the brass axle
(clean the unit thouroughly - this is difficult, especially for diesel -
and solder the parts together).

I have seen this fault probably 12 times in the last 15 years, and it is
always one of the above causes. Only laziness has persuaded me to buy a
new one, and the old ones have always ended up being reused.

Good luck.

Usual disclaimers (it workls....BANG!)

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
website				    www.channel6.dk
"Native Experience" - production unit in Alaska USA
telephone			     (907) 230 0359
e-mail				channel6@alaska.net
Visit the "Native Experience" project website at
http://www.channel6.dk/native

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 16:31:27 +0000
Subject: Re: Modular wheels

>Am I right in thinking that 'modular' wheels can be unbolted and split
>into two to make tyre changing easier, or am I getting them mixed upwith
>something else?
You're mixing them up with split rim wheels,which do as you say.But dont
ask me to define modular wheels 'cos I cant...
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: "Tim Burt" <tim@muddyweb.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 17:04:34 -0000
Subject: V8 Camshaft Tips

I am due to sort out a head gasket problem on my Dad's Range Rover (3.5 Efi)
Due to the age of the engine, I am almost certainly going to change the
camshaft whilst I'm in there.

Anyone got any hints, tips or advice ?

Cheers,

Tim Burt
www.muddyweb.co.uk

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From: "Rob Smith" <rob@archenland.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 20:26:37 -0000
Subject: RE: D90 anti-roll bars

Hey Frank, I agree with you, that's only meant to happen once a year ;>>

Rob Smith
Mine's the blue 110 

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From: "Rob Smith" <rob@archenland.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 20:26:36 -0000
Subject: RE: D90 anti-roll bars

Some later 110s, and I presume 90s have the chassis brackets for factory fit
roll bars already in place - mine does, and its 88/89 model year.  So no
welding is required if you go for the LR parts, trouble is they are probably
in the GBP = ouch price range.

I've fitted gas shocks to my 110, and can vouch for the transformation that
they make to the on-road handling, and don't restrict the off-road
articulation.  Cost about GBB100 an axle.

Rob Smith
Mine's the blue 110

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From: The Bickertons <Bickerton@compuserve.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 15:43:49 -0500
Subject: Speedo cables

Heres the lowdown in my experience with speedo cables, assuming it used to
work and now doesn't.

1) It's snapped in the outer. Either grab the end of the cable with pliers
and remove a bit that won't reach up to the speedo (using your imagination
in small doses), or else take the cable off at both ends and rotate one
watching the other. Fiddle with the clip on the back of the speedo dial
until it comes off, it's not obvious I know.
2) The end has snapped in the box. It should be tapered almost to a point,
but I wouldn't like to worry you with a guess of length - memory's not too
good. This is a b*gger to remove from it's little hole in the side of the
gearbox, but it is magnetic.....
3) It could be rotating in the box female bit due to wear. Use a smear of
chemical metal on it, reassemble it and LEAVE IT ALONE for 24hrs. (So do it
at weekend and then go down the pub....).
4) Speedo could be cream-crackered. Ask around on the list for somebody
with a spare (like me..)

Finally, if you've got an overdrive and you get a quote of less than £1500
from a garage, go for it. The screws are not easy, get somebody to lie
underneath and pass them back up. I dropped mine at least 25times, and
there's no o'drive.

Good luck,
John B 

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From: "Rob Smith" <rob@archenland.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 21:11:21 -0000
Subject: RE: A common tyre question (Sorry)

235/85 & 7.50 are within 3 mm NEW in rolling radius, 235 are wider (about
9.5 inches), and fill the arches quite nicely!
Unless you've still got a set of 16 inch rims you're going to have to put
them onto your shopping list.  Why not be really macho and go for
12.5/33x15, and don't forget to trim the arches!

Rob Smith
Mine's the blue 110

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From: "Loz" <loz@loz.softnet.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 21:17:15 -0000
Subject: Re: An alternative to the local tip?

How about putting an add on Tim Burt's wonderful web pages

www.muddyweb.co,uk

Could be the best place.

BTW - what have you got? Where are you?

Loz

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From: Chris Marsden <Byway@compuserve.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 19:22:43 -0500
Subject: Handbrake woes

Mathew,

> After a long run on the motorway (most times but not always) my handbrake
is very stiff when I first
> lift the lever, however afterwards it is fine. Could it be sticking
slightly? It only started doing
> this after the gearbox / x-fer box / handbrake were removed from the
vehicle a while ago.
> this after the gearbox / x-fer box / handbrake were removed from the

I had the handbrake stick on intermittently. Cleaned it all and greased it
etc. All to no avail. Eventaully jammed, caused centre diff to lock up.  
Then local L/R specialists, no not main dealer, replaced it with a surplus
unit they had, he said the actuator wear, cause grooves and do not release.
Been fine since. Charged £ 30 instead of £180.  And Labour at £12 hr is a
bit better than Main dealers. They sure know real landrovers.  Sorry, it's
at Docklow Nr Leominster, not to close to you.  Their Farm there is SO
picturesque with dozens of LRs from Series 1 on,  in all states of
disrepair.

Did you get your air leak in the fuel system fixed?

I assume you heard the sad news about Keith Wiliams?

Chris

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From: "Loz" <loz@loz.softnet.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 00:31:13 -0000
Subject: Re: A common tyre question (Sorry)

Rob said,

>Why not be really macho and go for
>12.5/33x15, and don't forget to trim the arches!

I've currently got 31.5 x 10.5 x 15 on.....Are these much bigger? Would they
fit my SII swb?

Loz

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From: "Dave White" <dave@bang.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 19:13:21 -0000
Subject: Re: More advise

>>No! The regulator provides a switched on/off "12 volt" output the
>>ratio of the on:off periods being dependent on both ambient
> [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
>>closely, corresponding small period movements of the needle can
>>sometimes be seen.
>Not all landrovers were fitted with hot-wire gauges so it seems
>likely that there would be different regulators for the different
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
>sense with this type of meter. A pulse regulator with a frequency
>below 1Hz would not work.

This seems likely to be true however, I thought it was a pulse type....
maybe I'm wrong (I've not tried it...) :-(

I'm gonna have to try it now just to see! :-)

Dave White
'82 V8 Stage 1 SW (Light Green)
'69 2.6 LWB 2A (in bits)

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