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The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
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From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 08:21:02 -0000
Subject: Re: Charging times
Well... Check what alternator you have, its either Naffed, or not man enough
for the job.
I assume you have a diesel (ref to heaters), they require much more cranking
current, so Stonking great battery if needed, AND a Good Alternator, the 43
Amp is useless, the 43 Amper is not much better, you need a BIG one. Get a
60 amper if possible.
Check out the mounting lugs, distance of the belt from the mounting lugs,
etc to make sure it fits and doesnt wear out the fanbelt.
Choose the one yourself, dont take what they offer, as you want a big'un!.
Check out the ones available in Ha*f**ds, get it as an exchange, then put
the old one in the new box, and take it back as a the exchange unit... Give
it the the squitty spotty erk on the till on a busy saturday morning. then
they wont have time to do much checking... Oh BTW.... Make sure its WELL
OILY! and Dirty.
Check the status of ALL leads and connexions.
It is an original diesel or a conversion,as the battery lead > starter is a
different size ie bigger on a diesel.
I have seen a unit that goes between the alternator and the battery which
monitors the battery and keeps it topped up, I think it takes the output
from the alternator, inverts it up to a higher voltage, then uses this
higher voltage to force charge the battery (under control of course). The
theory is sound, I just didnt like the price!...(and its something else to
go wrong!).
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From: Michael Turpin <M.Turpin@ucl.ac.uk>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 08:24:50 +0000
Subject: Oil contamination
I changed the oil in my SIII last night following the last off-road trip
which involved a fair amount of wading, including gutting stuck in about
three to four feet of water for 5 minutes or so (engine still running, just
lost traction). The underside of the oil filler cap and the breather were
both covered in a creamy deposit and there were traces of water, also the
very last bit of oil to come out of the sump drain was greyish. Is it
likely that this was just condensation caused by dunking a hot engine into
freezing cold water or should I start worrying about leaks? (Or is there
anything else I should start worrying about?)
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Mike Turpin ('80, 88" Petrol)
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From: "Finch, Mark" <Mark.Finch@BSKYB.COM>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 08:41:00 -0000
Subject: RE: Oil contamination
Could be a blown head gasket.
or water getting in some where, the creamy desposit is water and oil mixing
and producing an emulsion.
Mark
----------
From: Michael Turpin
Subject: Oil contamination
Date: 15 January 1999 08:24
I changed the oil in my SIII last night following the last off-road trip
which involved a fair amount of wading, including gutting stuck in about
three to four feet of water for 5 minutes or so (engine still running, just
lost traction). The underside of the oil filler cap and the breather were
both covered in a creamy deposit and there were traces of water, also the
very last bit of oil to come out of the sump drain was greyish. Is it
likely that this was just condensation caused by dunking a hot engine into
freezing cold water or should I start worrying about leaks? (Or is there
anything else I should start worrying about?)
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Mike Turpin ('80, 88" Petrol)
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From: Michael Turpin <M.Turpin@ucl.ac.uk>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 08:52:44 +0000
Subject: RE: Oil contamination
At 08:41 15/01/99 -0000, Mark Finch wrote:
>Could be a blown head gasket.
>or water getting in some where, the creamy desposit is water and oil mixing
>and producing an emulsion.
Wouldn't it be obvious if the head gasket had gone? and/or wouldn't there
have been lots of water in there?
It seems to be running o.k. and there didn't appear to be a huge amount of
emulsion, just a coating on the filler & breather.
Cheers
Mike ('80, 88" Petrol)
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From: doghouse@cix.compulink.co.uk (Michael Dyer)
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 99 08:51 GMT0
Subject: Re: Charging times
ISTR that a 90AH Bosch item is available and goes straight on.....or you
could source a late RR unit.
:-) Mick Dyer (doghouse@cix)
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From: P.Lucas@nsgmail.nerc-swindon.ac.uk (Pete Morgan-Lucas)
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 09:19:11 GMT
Subject: Re: Charging times
From: The Bickertons <Bickerton@compuserve.com>
>1972 S3 diesel, with an alternator and new battery.
>//SNIP//
> I've got 130W halogen spots with full beam - could these
>draw more than a standard alternator can supply?
Not sure what the standard alt. on a diesel SIII is, but it *should* be man
enough to cope with uprated headlamps etc.
Sounds to me more likely your alt. isn't charging properly - you may have
lost one phase due to a failed diode. This won't cause the warning light to
come on, you'll just be 33% down on charge output!
Either that, or maybe you've got worn brushes, or a dirty contact, that's
preventing the alternator charging properly. If you have to replace the
alternator, i recommend the Bosch K1-series (the K1-70A is often found under
the bonnet of Granadas and Transits, and starts cracking out a cool 70 amps
at a much lower speed than the Lucas equivalent). You may have to make up
some bracketry yourself to fit one.
//PJML//
whois -h whois.ripe.net PL1155-RIPE
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From: "Finch, Mark" <Mark.Finch@BSKYB.COM>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 09:21:00 -0000
Subject: RE: Oil contamination
no it would not be obvious, I drove an escort van for a couple of months,
with a slight blow, if you take off the rocker cover, now you have but in
fresh oil after driving it for abit, I think that will tell you if it has
gone or not, and if it is gone you should get a build up on the dip stick.
mark
----------
From: Michael Turpin
Subject: RE: Oil contamination
Date: 15 January 1999 08:52
At 08:41 15/01/99 -0000, Mark Finch wrote:
>Could be a blown head gasket.
>or water getting in some where, the creamy desposit is water and oil mixing
>and producing an emulsion.
Wouldn't it be obvious if the head gasket had gone? and/or wouldn't there
have been lots of water in there?
It seems to be running o.k. and there didn't appear to be a huge amount of
emulsion, just a coating on the filler & breather.
Cheers
Mike ('80, 88" Petrol)
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From: "Tim Burt" <tim@muddyweb.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 10:11:29 -0000
Subject: Re: Charging times
Just a note :
If you are planning to put a 70 amp alternator, (or something else larger
than you already had), make sure your cables are up to the job.
When I swapped the Alternator on mine for a 100 Amp unit, I had to uprate
everything. That said, when I looked at the cable that was there before, I
wouldn't have put it in to take 45 Amps which was the size of the Alternator
fitted !
Just me, doing my responsible adult act. (and it is an act !)
BTW, Geoff.... re: you comments about external boxes. You're not thinking
about the external voltage regulator that LRO featured a few months back are
you ? Works with an un-regulated alternator and gives you back the good
old remote battery sense.
Cheers,
Tim Burt
www.muddyweb.co.uk
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From: City of London School <RJM@cls.city-of-london.sch.uk>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 13:06:29 -0800
Subject: Split Rims
Thanks for the info about 'modular' wheels. So they're not modular at
all. What I really need (OK, would find useful, then) are split rims -
anyone got them, or know where they can be obtained?
Thanks again,
Rich.
--
Richard Maynard
City of London School Design and Technology
rjm@cls.city-of-london.sch.uk
101723.414@compuserve.com
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From: "Peter Dowson" <Peter.Dowson@softwareag.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 13:47:12 -0000
Subject: Re: Split Rims
Rich. wrote :-
:Thanks for the info about 'modular' wheels. So they're not modular at
:all. What I really need (OK, would find useful, then) are split rims -
:anyone got them, or know where they can be obtained?
:
Why do you want them. Won't a tyre lever or two do? I have never heard of
anyone splitting a rim to change the tyre even on those L/Rs with split
rims.
Peter Dowson
S1 80"
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From: "Tim Burt" <tim@muddyweb.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 13:40:50 -0000
Subject: Re: Split Rims
I've got a couple kicking around at my place (Down in Dorzet). They came
off an old Austin Champ.
Be Careful though, you can't fit them to 6 Cylinder Series 3 (or the V8
Stage 1) front Axle as the hubs are squarer, and the split rims won't go on
properly. (They should fit other LR hubs OK though)
Drop me a line direct if you're interested.
Cheers,
Tim Burt
www.muddyweb.co.uk
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From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 14:23:32 -0000
Subject: Re: Split Rims
I havent seen split rims sine I had them on my 64' S11a FFR back in good
'ol '74.
Search around mate!... Also they get rusted together, aand can be a Bast**d
to get apart, if you get them apart, shot blast them, paint and fit back
together with copperease!...
I remeber watching my local tyre service really struggling, 4 ft levers on
the Nuts! (holding the two halves together - not the wheel studs!)
Goof Luck!..
Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin
This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.
EMail geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).
'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits
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From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 14:24:22 -0000
Subject: Re: Split Rims
>Why do you want them. Won't a tyre lever or two do? I have never heard of
>anyone splitting a rim to change the tyre even on those L/Rs with split
>rims.
My point exactly!... Just invest in BIG tyre levers... Much cheaper! (and
less hassle).
Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin
This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.
EMail geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).
'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits
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From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 14:23:36 +0000
Subject: Re: Split Rims
Peter Dowson wrote:
> Why do you want them. Won't a tyre lever or two do? I have never heard of
> anyone splitting a rim to change the tyre even on those L/Rs with split
> rims.
Last time I did one on the kitchen floor was in 1983, the ex-military
88" had them.
I haven't seen any in years but MVS Lichfield might have some or
Richards at Hinstock near Market Drayton in Shropshire (01952 550391)
Mick Forster
1972 109" Safari 2.25 petrol
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/landpics.html
http://members.aol.com/IssyJames/LRlinks/LRlinks.htm
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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 14:28:00 +0000
Subject: Re: Split Rims
What I really need (OK, would find useful, then) are split rims -
>anyone got them, or know where they can be obtained?
I believe the Armed Forces used them.You could try some of the
ex-military advertisers in LRO magazine.
Cheers
Mike Rooth
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From: aworsley ox <Worsley@miebach.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 13:41:09 -0000
Please reply direct to:
aworsley.ox@miebach.com <mailto:aworsley.ox@miebach.com>
aworsley@clara.net <mailto:aworsley@clara.net>
Does anyone have a spare timing cover for either a 5 bearing Series III
diesel or an early 110 2.25 diesel (without air con)
Or indeed is the 3 bearing diesel 2.25 the same and if so has anyone got
one?
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From: Craig.Holdsworth@icl.com
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 14:38:31 -0000
Subject: RE: Split Rims
The last time I took the beasty out for a play, to give it a different
environment in which to break down :-), I went to the 4x4Fun day at
Castleford in Yorkshire and there was a guy wandering around who spotted the
one split rim I have my spare mounted on and asked me if I wanted another 4.
His story went that he'd bought a load off a bloke 'cos they were cheap and
still has some left.
I'm not sure when I'll be going again but if you are stuck and really want
some let me know and I'll wander along when I can.
Cheers.
Craig and WSU266 the 1961 S2 SWB truck-cab.
P.S. I thought the split rims had a slightly greater offset and so gave
marginally more lock than, say, RR or LWB rims ?
Message from Craig J Holdsworth of ICL Financial Services
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From: Graeme Hendry <graeme@agcomp.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 15:45:57 +0000
Subject: Re: Split Rims
In article <bulk.11222.19990115061231@Land-Rover.Team.Net>, Tim Burt
<tim@muddyweb.co.uk> writes
>I've got a couple kicking around at my place (Down in Dorzet). They came
>off an old Austin Champ.
I've got one kicking about, complete with a 205*16 tyre. ( Merseyside )
--
Graeme J Hendry \ ________ __
Merseyside ROW Respondent \ /__/__|__\___ ____|__\___
( ACU / LARA ) \ \_/-\_|__/-\_|} |_/-\|__|/-\|
www.agcomp.demon.co.uk/4x4/ \ (*)----(*) (*) (*)
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From: "Rob Smith" <rob@archenland.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 17:51:10 -0000
Subject: RE: Jeremy Fearn intercoolers
I fitted one to my 19J equipped 110 about 18 months, and 30k miles ago.
Fitting took less than an afternoon, and no 'bodging' was required on the
bits that JJF supplied.
First impressions were a more sprightly performance, but still lacking the
bottom end punch I was looking for. This was improved by the fuel pump
tweak as described in the supplied instructions, along whit resetting the
boost to nearer that which LR intended.
Result, a pretty rapid 110 TD, fuel economy improved slightly. Evidence of
performance is the contempt with which I go up the M40 from Tring to
Stockenchurch - lifting off at 70+ by about half way from 60 at the Tring
junction, with about half a ton in the back..
Rob Smith
Mine's the blue 110
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From: "Rob Smith" <rob@archenland.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 17:51:12 -0000
Subject: RE: Jeremy Fearn intercoolers
I did the costing exercise to use LR parts before going to JJF. The problem
is you have to replace the whole radiator assembly, which on its own is
about the same as JJF's kit, then you have to get the plumbing sorted, and,
from memory, that's about as much again.
I'm not surprised that your friend's 300TDi 90 didn't respond as well as
expected, there is a massive 'tolerance' in the performance of those
vehicles. If he started with a good one, there is only a little more to
come, if a bad one then I would expect to feel a big change.
One thing to remember is that generally the boost is set below spec on most
of the turboed LR's that I've looked at, and just setting the boost to the
book will give some small benefit, as will getting the injection pump
properly set up.
Rob Smith
Mine's the blue 110
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From: "Rob Smith" <rob@archenland.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 17:51:07 -0000
Subject: RE: The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
I know of young lass (too young for me) who is in the process of decorating
her bed room with 'cast off' CDs, so take care young Frank, you may become a
fashion statement again.
Rob Smith
Mine's the blue 110
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From: wayne@yorkshire.u-net.com (Wayne Davies)
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 18:26:59 GMT
Subject: Oops, how did that get there
Oh dear, one of my emails seems to have reached the Major by mistake,
good job I wasn't swearing. It was to an ex-pat in the US who is looking
for a source of lightweight spares for his IIa, just in case anyone out
there can help now that I've started...
Change of subject, the fellow who suspects his carb for loss of power. I
had a similar problem, it was caused by the distributor in my case.
The bob weights were stuck on the shaft, couldn't get them off without
risking damage. It didn't respond to a bit of Anglo Saxon instruction
until a friend advised me to boil a kettle and pour the boiling water
over the cam lobe but not to get any on the shaft itself. True enough,
as the four lobe cam expanded, it slid off the shaft and things could be
cleaned up and reassembled.
Great solution and not a screwdriver mark in sight or a cracked casing.
The engine would accelerate fine because the vacuum advance pipe from
the carb was doing its bit as I put my foot down and increased the flow
through the carb. The problem came if I put my foot down too fast or
once the engine revs had increased. The mechanical advance was not
sustaining the increase in engine revs so it started fluffing and
coughing and kangarooing around.
A question for anyone reading, regarding the two springs on the bob
weights in the distributor? Is it important how they go back on, I may
have mixed them up and wondered if this affects anything, just curious
thats all.
--
Wayne Davies Website info on Ex-Military Land Rovers One
Tequila
Harrogate SAS Pink Panther, Lightweight, Shorland Two
Tequila
North Yorks Belgian Minerva & Armoured Land Rovers Three
Tequila
01423 526642 www.yorkshire.u-net.com
FLOOR!
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From: "Michael Wells" <mwells11@rjt.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 19:46:31 -0000
Subject: Cable inf.
I recently fitted a 2.25 to my 86" and the job went very well. I have a
problem with the throttle cable as the one I fitted is of the cable inside
a spring case which gets very stiff. Does anyone know of a better type and
where I can get it. I also have a problem with holes appearing in my 2 year
old hood which look as though battery acid has spilled on to it. This has
not happened but I do have alot of birds on a pole out side which might
have caused the problem. has anyone any thoughts.
Mick 54 86"
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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 23:33:33 EST
Subject: supplier suggestions?
OK. We finally got around to planning the first trip to the UK for our
project. Looks like I'll be in London and Leeds in early March. We may fly
into Manchester and exit from London.
If anyone has good suppliers to recommend that are accessible to Leeds or
London? The GE offices in London are near Heathrow if that helps.
I'll also be *attempting* to return for Billing too. I've got some needs but
I'd rather not wait until then.
Thanks in advance!
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ
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