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The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
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From: "David Vella" <landy@digigate.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 09:23:00 +0100
Subject: Stuck Valve
Hi
Sorry for the cross-posts but i dont know where I can get some help
regarding my Land Rover.
I have 1988 90 Turbo Diesel (TD) and yesterday after idling for aout 3 mins.
, I started to move and after about 3 secs. of 1st gear there was a big
thumping noise coming from the engine and a BIG white smoke came out fromt
he rear. It appearss to have been a stuck valve. This is the second time
it happened.
Can anyone pls tell me how it happened, how i can not make it happen again
and if it is likely to lead to further problems i.e. new engine or etc.
10x and regards
David Vella
GFI Fax & Voice
[www.gfifax.com]
-=1988 White 90=-
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From: "Burton, Andrew" <andrew.h.burton@bt.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 09:23:35 -0000
Subject: Billing dates
Has anyone got the Billing dates to hand for 1999, I need to get some
leave booked.
A slight change of subject, I have a problem with a new canvas I
purchased for my 109 approx. 6 month ago. I am getting terrible
mould problems all over the inside of canvas especially around the
areas where the hood sticks are. Is there a cure for this and can
I stop it from happening anymore?
Any comments or suggestions please.
Thanks in advance
Andy Burton
SIII 109 FFR
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From: Orlando_Scott-Cowley@watsonwyatt.co.uk
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 09:43:59 +0000
Subject: Re: Billing dates
16 - 18 July (inc) 1999.
Much fun in the sun - although can't bank on the sun part.
Orlando.
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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 09:48:01 +0000
Subject: Re: Glow plugs
>I have a theory that glow plugs should be fitted as a "matched set" - a
>bit like semiconductors!
Adrian,
This grief could be banished with the purchase of a set of Dieselglow
heater plugs.They have a "bulb" type tip,as against the squiggly wire
one,and are parallel wired,so if one should go you've still got three
to start the thing.Particularly in your climate.They work for me....
Cheers
Mike Rooth
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From: "Peter Estibeiro" <petere@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 10:41:30 +0000
Subject: Re: Cable inf.
Michael Wells wrote:
> I recently fitted a 2.25 to my 86" and the job went very well. I have a
> problem with the throttle cable as the one I fitted is of the cable inside
> a spring case which gets very stiff. Does anyone know of a better type and
> where I can get it.
I use an ex-escort cable with some home made adaptors on a zenith
carb'd 2.25 in my 86". I got it from a scrap yard. It works well
enough and cost 50p. A motorcycle shop will also probably be able to
make a cable to your specification for about 10 ukp.
Cheers
Peter.
Peter Estibeiro
Membrane Biology Group
Department of Biomedical Science
University of Edinburgh
Edinburgh EH8 9XD
tel: 44 131 6503731
fax: 44 131 6503711
email peter.estibeiro@ed.ac.uk
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From: "Peter Estibeiro" <petere@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 11:09:41 +0000
Subject: Re: Glow plugs
The glow plug theory sounds reasonable. When I had a diesel engine
in my 109 I eventually replaced all the glow plugs with a set of the
later type which are connected in parallel rather than series. They
then work as individuals rather than a set and I did once replace one
with no harm to the others. They also give much better starting than
the old series-connected type. I can thoroughly recommend them.
Cheers
Peter.
Peter Estibeiro
Membrane Biology Group
Department of Biomedical Science
University of Edinburgh
Edinburgh EH8 9XD
tel: 44 131 6503731
fax: 44 131 6503711
email peter.estibeiro@ed.ac.uk
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From: doghouse@cix.compulink.co.uk (Michael Dyer)
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 99 11:15 GMT0
Subject: Re: Lighting regs
Matt has a side-swipe at me - Oh how unusual ;-)
<<<<Why would you have lights on the roof aimed at the horizon,>>>>
Mine don't, they point down-ish
<<< as Frank has often stated the only
advantage of lights on the roof as opposed to on the bumper is to
illuminate holes in the trackimmediately in front of you.>>>>
But the overspill is still technically a hazard to oncoming road-users
<<< Anyway, the lights you've currently got on your bumper are more than
adequate at the moment :-))>>>>
Yes, for straight-ahead illumination - we know a story about that don't we
children? :-)
BTW the easiest way to wire roof lights up is to run the power feed from
the headlight main-beam (via a relay, natch) and to interrupt the earth
wire with a dashboard switch. Switch off for on-road, switch on for
automatic additional main-beam illumination. (poldham@cix told me this,
must give credit where credit is due)
:-) Mick Dyer (doghouse@cix)
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From: GMBubb@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 08:22:14 EST
Subject: Turbo Boost - how to check?
Following on from recent Emails, I'd be interested to check the boost on my
300TDi. I've no problems or worries about it, except that it is somewhat
smokey if you floor the throttle in the wrong gear. I know this is basically
because the turbo is not up to speed, but if the boost is down it would have a
similar effect. I can easily lay my hands on pressure gauges, but where to
measure and more to the point, what is the spec?
Gordon
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From: "Niel J. P. Fagan" <NF@orc.soton.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 13:42:49 GMT
Subject: WARNING, etc.
At the weekend a blue cavaler G --- NNV attempted to remodel itselt
on my left side, this car has exsisting damage and I suspect its
drivers looking for an accident to pay for the repairs. The driver
however left the accident without exchanging details, he thought he
had the right to change lanes without an indicator and without
looking, even after having my twin air horns in his ear.
Having had the road markings and signs explained to him he realised
he was on a loser with me, bewarned it could be you next time, he's
from Wales (probably south) and it happened in Hampshire, NO damage
to the Landy BTW.
Lights, what about these new blue tinted bulbs for head-lights are
they not legal ?
Don't bother with alternators, dynamos will charge a dead flat
battery, alternators never will ;-)
N
.Rgds Niel
Views expressed are personal and not those of the
University, unless otherwise & expressly stated.
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From: "Bonorchis, Conrad" <ConradBonorchis@interim.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 13:48:13 -0000
Subject: Landie search
Hi all.
As a previous LR owner who has done a bit of travel in Landies in Southern
Africa ('78 Series 3 109 2,6 Pickup & '84 R6 2,6 Stationwagon - Stage 1 to
you UK folk - R6 to us South Africans), I now intend to purchase a set of
'wheels' as we are moving to Surrey this month, and away from the
'wonderful' London Underground.
Anyway, as my luck would have it my wife is DEMANDING that we get a
LandRover....just my luck :)
So, a Landie it will be! I was thinking of a 1996 110 2.5TDi 300, but I have
a question, do the UK produced Landies also suffer from overheating like the
South African versions do?
What should I look for/avoid??
I know the usual 'old landie' things to look out for.....jumping out of
gear, rust (not likely on a 96 model) etc.....what specifics on the 300
TDi??
Thanks for the help.
Conrad
PS. Hi Frank, sorry about the loss of contact, I have been contracting in
France and on holiday in S.Africa and Cyprus. I'd still like to get to meet
you, hopefully I'll have a landie in a month or two, then I'll attend one of
your local LR days. Billing will be a definate !!!
Cheers, Conrad
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From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 14:04:06 +0000
Subject: Re: 101 dimensions
Mel Mauger & Matthew Reeve wrote:
> Can anyone provide with the dimensions of an FC101, or are there any websites
dedicated to the 101?
101" FC: Technical Information
General Arrangement for 12 and 24 volt models One Tonne:
Overall length, fully equipped ............ 4330 mm
Overall length, basic stripped ............ 4217 mm
Overall height, to top of windscreen ...... 2138 mm
Overall height, over hood ................. 2283 mm
Wheelbase ................................. 2565 mm (101 in)
Track, front .............................. 1524 mm
Length of body (internal) ................. 2491 mm
Track, rear ............................... 1549 mm
Width of body (internal) .................. 1720 mm
Overall width ............................. 1842 mm
Turning circle ............................ 11,3 m
Minimum ground clearance under axles ...... 254 mm
More details on: http://www.off-road.com/LR_FAQ/FC/FAQ.FC.101FC.html
A few more sites:
http://www.g7tgr.demon.co.uk/
http://4wd.sofcom.com/Mil/LandRover/FC101.html
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/RPyne/
Hope this helps, if you find anymore let us know.
Mick Forster
1972 109" Safari 2.25 petrol
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/LWBrst/LWBrst.html
http://members.aol.com/IssyJames/LRlinks/LRlinks.htm
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From: "Alasdair Sanderson" <Alasdair@Cruachan.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 14:02:55 -0000
Subject: Re: Turbo Boost - how to check?
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From: "Julian Watt" <julian@mindnet.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 15:25:02 -0000
Subject: Re: Turbo Boost & Blue Smoke
My dad's 300Tdi discovery did this and sometimes seemed to loose quite a lot
of power. He removed the Exhaust Gas Recirculation System, this boosted his
power and stopped clouds of smoke appearing, also he says it revs a little
higher and much smoother. I think the EGR system is only on the Disco and
not on Defenders.
He removed two connections from the EGR valve situated near the Turbo, one
is a vacuume pipe ultimately connected to the brake servo so you must block
the end (Dad used a bolt), the other connection is an electrical connector.
Apparantly the EGR valve lets hot exhaust gas recirculate through the turbo,
this in my mind seems daft, hot exhaust gas being fed through the
intercooler and back into the engine! This is supposed to reduce certain gas
emissions, it doesn't help your economy or power.
Dad always meant to reconnect the system for the MOT, but he
forgot........it passed anyway!
I don't think there are any detrimental effects from this practice, try it
at your own risk.
Julian Watt
Blue 90 200Tdi
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From: Paul S Card <pscard@upd.co.za>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 18:07:31 +0200
Subject: Re: Turbo Boost - how to check?
Gordon,
Connect your pressure gauge to the pipe between the turbo outlet and the
wastegate
actuator with a suitable Tee (caution your hose and Tee need to be of a suitable
material as they will get very hot in the turbo area). The hose should be long
enough so as to enable you to locate the gauge in the cab.
Run the engine up to temperature and find a suitable hill so as to be able to
maintain your revs between 2500 and 3000 rpm. Your boost should be in the region
of 1 bar (+- 15 Psi ?), for a Defender 300TDi (I assume your boost pressure
should
be similar (I will have to check my manual for the exact range). If your boost
is
below spec I think the only cure is to replace the wastegate actuator (sealed
unit) ?
GMBubb@aol.com wrote:
> Following on from recent Emails, I'd be interested to check the boost on my
> 300TDi. I've no problems or worries about it, except that it is somewhat
> Gordon
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From: "Peter Estibeiro" <petere@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 16:26:24 +0000
Subject: proposed changes to car tax
Hi
Have you seen the consultation document on the governments proposed
changes to the car tax system. They suggest taxation based on
engine size (a bugger those of you with V8s who could be paying upto
700ukp per year if we are brought into line with some EU states).
Also possible is an excess charge on diesel engines to reflect their
higher emissions of pm10s and nitrogen compounds (a bugger for those
of you with tdis). Good news is the government is inviting
feedback. The document and a questionaire are on the web at
http://www.open.gov.uk/dvla/vedcon.htm. Have a look and make your
feelings known. Deadline is Jan 31st. If we don't respond we can't
whine and complain when it happens. Appologies to those of you who
have already seen this. I was planning to put a V8 in the
seriesIII.... Bugger.
Cheers
Peter.
Peter Estibeiro
Membrane Biology Group
Department of Biomedical Science
University of Edinburgh
Edinburgh EH8 9XD
tel: 44 131 6503731
fax: 44 131 6503711
email peter.estibeiro@ed.ac.uk
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From: "Dave White" <davew@landie.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 16:40:59 +0000
Subject: Re: proposed changes to car tax
> I was planning to put a V8 in the
> seriesIII.... Bugger.
On the other hand - all their suggested bands stop at "Over 2.0 litres" - so
a 2.25 pays the same as a 4.2 V8 :-)
Dave White <davew@landie.demon.co.uk>
'72 SIII V8 auto, Range Rover Chassis
'89 Range Rover
'80 Range Rover (For Sale...)
'98 Freelander
Yorkshire Rover Owners Club
<http://www.landie.demon.co.uk/>
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From: Duncan Phillips <dunk@ivanhoe.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 16:56:58 +0000
Subject: Re: proposed changes to car tax
At 16:40 18/01/99 +0000, you wrote:
>> I was planning to put a V8 in the
>> seriesIII.... Bugger.
>On the other hand - all their suggested bands stop at "Over 2.0 litres" - so
>a 2.25 pays the same as a 4.2 V8 :-)
And the lucky sods who already have road tax exemption (pre- 1973) are
going to be exempt from it too - time to trade in the SIII for a 2a!!!
*******************************
Duncan Phillips
1980 SWB SIII 'Evie'
http://Gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~cmtdmp/play/lrover/
*******************************
Big Bad n' Blue
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From: "Steve Mace" <steve@solwise.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 15:51:16 -0000
Subject: Re: Turbo Boost - how to check?
On 18 Jan 99, at 14:02, Alasdair Sanderson wrote:
> It was mentioned in LRO a couple of years ago. It installs neatly into the
> spare
> instrument hole on the right hand side of the dash.
What spare instrument hole? Why haven't I got a spare
hole?
Steve
1972 SIII LtWt
1993 D90
In the UK
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: steve@solwise.co.uk
www: http://www.solwise.co.uk
Tel: +44 1482 621888
Fax: +44 1482 621877
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From: "Peter Estibeiro" <petere@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 17:49:10 +0000
Subject: Re: proposed changes to car tax
> And the lucky sods who already have road tax exemption (pre- 1973) are
> going to be exempt from it too - time to trade in the SIII for a 2a!!!
Swap series III 109 safari. Very good condition, fast handbuilt
modified 2.25 petrol engine. For 2a of similar type in similar
condition? Any takers?...... No, thought not!
Cheers
Peter.
Peter Estibeiro
Membrane Biology Group
Department of Biomedical Science
University of Edinburgh
Edinburgh EH8 9XD
tel: 44 131 6503731
fax: 44 131 6503711
email peter.estibeiro@ed.ac.uk
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[spamkill: [^d][^2][0-9][0-9][0-9]*\.com[^a-z] input: %s] Received: from
dub-img-10.compuserve.com (dub-img-10.compuserve.com [149.174.206.140])
[spamkill: [^d][^2][0-9][0-9][0-9]*\.com[^a-z] input: %s] by
dub-img-10.compuserve.com (8.8.6/8.8.6/2.17) id NAA25383
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From: Craig.Holdsworth@icl.com
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 20:41:51 -0000
Subject: RE: Turbo Boost - how to check?
>> It was mentioned in LRO a couple of years ago. It installs neatly into
the
>> spare
>> instrument hole on the right hand side of the dash.
.What spare instrument hole? Why haven't I got a spare
.hole?
The later Defenders have a clock in the right-most hole on the dash -
earlier models have their clock next to the rear wash wipe button in the
middle of the dash.
You see - the memory still works
Craig who now drives a S2 1961 truck cab 2&1/4 petrol and a Vectra company
car :-(
who has previously owned a 1991 Defender 200 Tdi 110 CSW
and a 1995 Defender 300 Tdi 110 CSW
Message from Craig J Holdsworth of ICL Financial Services
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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 20:22:56 -0000
Subject: Re: Billing dates
charset="iso-8859-1"
I "just happen" to have the dates around me :-)>
July 16/17/18
see you there.... (12 noon Saturday in the beer tent, CD round our =
necks)
Best Cheers
Frank
+--+--+--+
I !__| [_]|_\___
I ____|"_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV
"(o)=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D(o)" Bronze Green 110 CSW
------=_NextPart_000_0037_01BE4320.55580980
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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 20:29:12 -0000
Subject: Re: Glow plugs
charset="iso-8859-1"
Mike,
are Dieselglow readily obtainable?
Best Cheers
Frank
+--+--+--+
I !__| [_]|_\___
I ____|"_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV
"(o)=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D(o)" Bronze Green 110 CSW
------=_NextPart_000_005E_01BE4321.35AA7D60
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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 20:45:25 -0000
Subject: Re: Landie search
charset="iso-8859-1"
>>PS. Hi Frank, sorry about the loss of contact, I have been contracting =
in
France and on holiday in S.Africa and Cyprus. I'd still like to get to =
meet
you, hopefully I'll have a landie in a month or two, then I'll attend =
one of
your local LR days. Billing will be a definite !!!<<
Hi Conrad,
what a sad time you've had all those holidays :-)>
I'll be in touch, make sure it's GREEN and we'll do some =
off-roading.....
Best Cheers
Frank
+--+--+--+
I !__| [_]|_\___
I ____|"_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV
"(o)=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D(o)" Bronze Green 110 CSW
------=_NextPart_000_00A3_01BE4323.79A7A9A0
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From: "Rob Smith" <rob@archenland.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 21:15:21 -0000
Subject: RE: Jeremy Fearn intercoolers
Quite easy to do if you can find a suitable pressure gauge, and some tube so
you can see the gauge whilst driving.
On older engines, like my 19J, it is possible to tap into the pressure pipe
between the turbo and the fuel pump, put a suitable pressure gauge in there
and go for a drive. Finding a hill that you can just about climb at
moderate speed (55-60 mph) in 4th note the maximum pressure you reach. If
it is bellow that given in the manual for you engine increase the maximum
pressure by shortening the wastegate control rod by about 1mm for every psi
bellow spec. It might take a couple of runs to get the pressure set
correctly.
I guess the same can be done on the 300TDi.
>From memory the spec for the TDi engines is about 10-12 psi, and the 19J a
little lower, say 8-10.
Rob Smith
Mine's the blue 110
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From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 20:10:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Landie search
Frank,
<< make sure it's GREEN and we'll do some =
off-roading..... >>
A bit "colourist" there Frank!
Blue looks good on a Landy too you know...
Paul
Ex- H.M. Coastguard SIII SWB
"Dougal Mc Landie"
B895 OJT (1984)
(Navy Blue with a Yellow Roof)
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From: "Mel Mauger & Matthew Reeve" <blatchwood@btinternet.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 00:58:49 -0000
Subject: Re: Lighting regs
>Matt has a side-swipe at me - Oh how unusual ;-)
I can see how you would be expecting it, but I wasn't that time, I was actually
agreeing with
you...... no really I was. :-)
><<< as Frank has often stated the only
>advantage of lights on the roof as opposed to on the bumper is to
>illuminate holes in the track immediately in front of you.>>>>
>But the overspill is still technically a hazard to oncoming road-users
Indeed it is, and would contravene the regulations be dazzling other users,
however my point was
that you are unlikely to have those lights aimed at a car which you hadn't
noticed yet because it
was coming over a hill. If the lights were aimed to the horizon then it would
be a problem because
the lights would hit the opposing driver before you saw them, however roof
lights pointed downwards
relatively close to the vehicle (and therefore don't spread that far away)
present less chance of
inadvertently dazzling an opposing user (whom you hadn't noticed in time) than
conventional main
beams which are nearly horizontal and therefore spread a long distance. Neither
is recommended when
other cars are around, but then you wouldn't be using main beam anyway in that
situation.
><<< Anyway, the lights you've currently got on your bumper are more than
>adequate at the moment :-))>>>>
>Yes, for straight-ahead illumination - we know a story about that don't we
>children? :-)
Remind me, my memory's slipping in my old age...
>BTW the easiest way to wire roof lights up is to run the power feed from
>the headlight main-beam (via a relay, natch) and to interrupt the earth
>wire with a dashboard switch. Switch off for on-road, switch on for
>automatic additional main-beam illumination. (poldham@cix told me this,
>must give credit where credit is due)
The way I've wired my lights on the bumper is to split the +12v from the main
beam circuit into a
set of switches, one switch for each pair of lamps which could be used with
main beam. Each switch
then leads down to a relay and hence to the appropriate lamps. The wires need
only be speaker wire
as they are only switching relays. This means that I can select any combination
of main beam lights,
depending on the conditions. It also means that I can select 'fog lights only'
as my main beam
pattern, with nothing else illuminated at the front except for the sidelights.
This means that when
travelling through fog, which always occurs in patches as you go up and down
slight hills, you can
easily switch from dipped beam to fog lights without having to fumble for a
switch.
As far as interrupting the earth feed from the roof lights, it's a good idea as
long as the
dashboard switch is capable of taking the current drawn by all the lights on
the roof. As this is
the only earth feed to them, it has to carry the same current as the sum total
of the power leads
going into the lights. Personally I would be inclined to switch the relays
lower down in the vehicle
and avoid the risk of burning out the switch, and then run a heavier duty earth
cable to the
lighting bar.
>:-) Mick Dyer (doghouse@cix)
Matthew
UK, nr Heathrow
1979 2-dr Range Rover 300Tdi
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From: "Mel Mauger & Matthew Reeve" <blatchwood@btinternet.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 01:06:52 -0000
Subject: Re: Turbo Boost - how to check?
>> spare
>> instrument hole on the right hand side of the dash.
>What spare instrument hole? Why haven't I got a spare
>hole?
>Steve
I believe they were a highly expensive option, only fitted by SVO, however if
you would like to send
me a small cheque along with a SAE, I will post you a spare hole by return of
post......
:-))
Matthew
UK, nr Heathrow
1979 2-dr Range Rover 300Tdi
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From: "Mel Mauger & Matthew Reeve" <blatchwood@btinternet.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 01:01:01 -0000
Subject: Re: 101 dimensions
>101" FC: Technical Information
>Hope this helps, if you find anymore let us know.
>Mick Forster
Thanks very much,
Matthew
UK, nr Heathrow
1979 2-dr Range Rover 300Tdi
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