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The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
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From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:21:50 -0000
Subject: Re: Lights
Well I think its not about about how bright your lights are...
Its about how well they are adjusted and the hole physical setup.
Bright lights are just as safe or dangerous as standard ones.
BUT ... Its more important that the bright ones have the correct bulbs for
the correct reflectors, AND are correctly set up.
I have fitted a pair of Quad Optics, for Wipac, as the chrome was non
existant on the original lamps.
at 20ukp a pair they represent reasonable value.
However I had a couple of 80/100watt bulbs left over fom my peugeot, so I
fitted them.
I could not get them set up properly, and the cut-off on Dip was almost non
existent ie just a blurred line.
I took them to the MoT station to get them set up, and they couldnt define
the line either.
So... I got some new Std "E" rated bulbs, and all was fine again.
Intrigued... I took them out and compared them the the 80/100's and there
were small differences in the positions of the shields around the
filaments., also the filaments were a different length.
This appeared to be enough to mess up the focus.
Reading on.... It appears that if the Glass of the lights have an "E"
rating, as most now do, you must use "E" rated bulbs, which the 80/100's
were not.
Lesson learnt I think!...
I am not impressed with the Wipac ones 18 months later the reflectors are
showing signs of tarnishing,and I do next to bugger all offroading!.
Unimpressed.
Land Rover wanted 80ukp +VAT for a set of Lucas refelctors with no bulbs.
Lucas wanted 38UKP,
You pays yer money and you gt what you pay for.... Its Lucas or Cibie next
time.
Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin
This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.
EMail geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).
'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits
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From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:31:08 -0000
Subject: Re: Re-Question on Vehicle building.
>> Does anyone have the details of the DVL points system for registration
year
>> rules for re-built vehicles? I have been unable to find them.
>http://www.open.gov.uk/dvla/vehicle.htm or one of the pages below it
>has the details of the points system.
A. Rebuilt Vehicles
In order to retain the original registration mark the vehicle must use :-
Cars and Car-Derived Vans
Original chassis/body shell or a brand new one of the same
specification as the original (supported by receipts from the
dealer/manufacturer if
it is not original). [ Please note: if a second-hand chassis/body shell
has been used the vehicle will be automatically allocated a Q prefix
registration
number].
And two other major components from the original vehicle
Suspension (front & back)
Axles (both)
Transmission
Steering Assembly
Engine
Radically Altered Vehicles
These are vehicles which are substantially altered from their original
specification, but not usually kit conversions.
The major vehicle components have been assigned the numerical value set out
in the table below. To retain the original registration number the vehicle
must score
eight or more points.
Points
Chassis/body shell (original or
new) = 5
Suspension
= 2
Axles
= 2
Transmission
= 2
Steering Assembly
= 2
Engine
= 1
There we have it the definative lifted from the DVLA pages... Wunderful
stuff the 'net in't it!..
Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin
This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.
EMail geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).
'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits
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From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:35:31 -0000
Subject: Re: LPG costs
I assume you are saying that you can get fuel costs down to 5.5p per
mile?...
I get 11.6ppm with the 200Tdi. thats about 26-27mpg, and driving normally,
ie econo mode =off.
If you can get it to 5-6ppm then thats well worth investigating further....
Always fancied a V8... just cant afford the fuel!... (but maybee... just
maybee with the gasss stuff.... Hmmmmm....)
Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin
This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.
EMail geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).
'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits
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From: Patrick Colbeck <pat.colbeck@esc.azlan.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:34:43 +0000
Subject: Re: Tach
On Wed Jan 27, 1999 at 05:29:14PM +0000, Peter Estibeiro wrote:
> > What is the usual culprit for a bouncing tach, or is this just a
> > design feature to be ignored?
> > Smitty
> > 90 RR TD
> I guess TD means turbo diesel and therefore probably cable driven
> tach not electric. In which case maybe the cable is kinked or needs
> lubricating. If I'm talking rubbish sorry.
[ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> tach not electric. In which case maybe the cable is kinked or needs
> lubricating. If I'm talking rubbish sorry.
If its cable drive try replacing the right angle drive on the back of the
tacho.
Pat
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From: Patrick Colbeck <pat.colbeck@esc.azlan.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:38:15 +0000
Subject: Re: Re-Question on Vehicle building.
But waht happens if you were to do it in stages ? For example replace just
yopur chassis then 6 months later replace the engine then in another 6
months the axles then the body etc ...
Does it at some point become a new vehical or will it keep the original
registration ?
Pat
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From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:42:48 -0000
Subject: Re: Series 3 with oomph - how????
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From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 09:05:53 -0000
Subject: Re: Battery/Electrical Power Meters
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From: Patrick Colbeck <pat.colbeck@esc.azlan.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 09:10:43 +0000
Subject: Re: Battery/Electrical Power Meters
> PS... DONT mix water and electricity, even 75Volts AC is enough to give you
> a nasty jolt (Had enough of them, as 75VAC is the ringing current for
> phones!).
Been there, why is it you don't get a phone call for days then just as you
are wiring in a new phone extension and someone rings and zaps you ! It
happens every time.
Pat
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From: tc971613@student.paisley.ac.uk (Timothy Coles)
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 11:33:17 -0800
Subject: Re: S3 with oomph!
Ian Sykes built a SIIA for Hillrally competion in conjunction with Automotive
Components,
the vehicle was featured in LRW a couple of times through the build and is now
for sale.
He claims 90mph is possible and has proof of 110bhp(I think). Have a look at
it at
http://www.inverness.demon.co.uk/
and click on the "Hillrally LR for sale" in the box on the lower left.
I might be able to find the magazine articles if anyone is interested.
TIM
SIII Diesel
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From: "Tim Burt" <tim@muddyweb.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 14:19:51 -0000
Subject: Just a Test
Just checking to make sure everything is still working.
It's very quiet today !
Cheers,
Tim Burt
www.muddyweb.co.uk
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From: "Bonorchis, Conrad" <ConradBonorchis@interim.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 15:07:07 -0000
Subject: Overland Forum
Hi Guys.
Just to let you know that Hennie Rautenbach on the za-lro (South African
LRO) has set up a forum dedicated to discussions on Overlanding.
This includes
- Overland trips (ie the full thing - right across Africa, Europe, whatever)
- Short trips (ie Namibia or Malawi tours)
- Overland Equipment
- Red Tape, Visas, money, security, etc on an overland trip.
- etc
So, if any of you guys would like to subscribe have a look at
http://overland.sabinet.co.za
There are subscription instructions there.....
Hope to see some of you there
Cheers
Conrad
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From: "Niel J. P. Fagan" <nf@orc.soton.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 16:46:51 GMT
Subject: T/D dying at 110, luminition
Check your air intake duct/hose is not collapsing inside, they can
look fine outside and be falling apart inside, steel-spiral wound PVC
extract duct is more reliable ;-) (been there, done that).
Luminition, if you fit one make sure you have a COMPLETE normal
ignition set-up with you for when it fails (even more inconvenient
than collapsing inlet ducts, been there, done that too).
>.
Rgds Niel
Views expressed are personal and not those of the
University, unless otherwise & expressly stated.
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From: Mark Allery <M.Allery@ee.surrey.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 17:47:37 -0000
Subject: RE: Battery/Electrical Power Meters
Frank,
Ammeters (needle rests in the centre and indicates 30-0-30 amps or similar)
were normally fitted to older vehicles (SIIa and older) and tend to go
alongside dynamos (direct current generator) which generate fairly limited
current and need quite high revs. Hence its quite easy to run along merrily
discharging the battery if you turn on everything. Its unusual to find an
ammeter on a modern vehicle except as an after market accessory. Virtually
all modern vehicles use alternators (generate alternating current rectified
by a diode pack on the back) which give more current at lower revs and a
volt meter (needle rests at bottom with 0-fullscale in volts or colours) is
more commonly used to indicate electrical health.
Your ignition warning light is used to indicate state of health of the
electrical power generator (alternator or dynamo). With the engine stopped
the ignition light is on warning that alternator/dynamo is not functioning -
any current required will have to come from the battery. Once the engine
starts and a voltage is generated by the alternator/dynamo the ignition
warning light should go out indicating that sufficient voltage is being
produced to supply power. If the generator stops (broken fan
belt/seized/loose belt etc) then the warning light should come on. This is
not the same as proving that the battery is being charged since the load
required may exceed the capability of the gnerator to provide (especially at
low revs, ever noted car headlights are dimmer when on tick over ?) and so
the remainder of the requirement will come from the battery. Hence the
ammeter is the best tool for the job (QED?). Most modern cars with
alternators and without winches etc don't need the extra expense of an
ammeter and a cheaper voltmeter makes do.
Hope we've managed to improve matters rather than make things worse,
right now back to my simple mechanical problems. Where do I find a deep 18mm
socket to get these wretched spring bolts off and why is this spring bolt so
seized I just snapped my 2ft extension bar on it, groan ! almost makes me
reach for the grinder and then things will rapidly go from bad to worse.
yes I'm back,
cheers for now
Mark
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From: Elwyn York <Elwyn@ey-eg.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 23:00:24 +0000
Subject: Lightweights
Hi
Sorry to crosspost. Do anyone on these lists have a Landrover Lightweight,
that I havent already contacted. If so, please could you send me your
details, including Web site, email (obvious!) name, area, vehicle details.
Cheers
Elwyn York
LR S3 '72 (Very Dented) Lightweight. [47 FL 06]
"Sub Aerodynamic Green Brick" ICQ: 17087824.
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END OF * LIST DIGEST
Input: messages 14 lines 837 [forwarded 46 whitespace 0]
Output: lines 482 [content 388 forwarded 44 (cut 2) whitespace 0]
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