The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions uk-lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: Chris Marsden <Byway@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 05:30:16 -0500
Subject: Re: LPG on Ferries

lay-by where you are asked if the gas is turned off, before you are allowed
through.

Is this because it is heavier than Air?  If so it will just sit there after
a leak until it goes pop! 

cj

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Dave White" <dave@bang.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 10:58:30 -0000
Subject: Re: Brownchurch

>Geoff, get down to Argos, get a "garden canopy" for 17.50UKP, hangs off =
>the roof rack fine, will stand alone, best of both worlds.....
>I've had one three years now, paid for itself many a wet night.
>Best Cheers

Does that mean you can move it from side to side to change wheels in the dry
all round the landie!? That almost makes it better.... still need to buy a
rack first tho and that wont be for a while.... :-(.

Dave White
'82 V8 Stage 1 SW (Light Green)
'69 2.6 LWB 2A (in bits)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Dave White" <dave@bang.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 12:19:30 -0000
Subject: Re: LPG on Ferries

some of it is can't remeber blue and red (butane/propane) one is heavier one
lighter.

Dave

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Manuel Silva <mj.ls@usa.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 15:41:47 +0000
Subject: New Land Rover owner

	Finally I'm a Land Rover owner!
	It's a 1973 Diesel LWB SIII. I went to pick it up yesterday and drove 
home
almost 500 Km without problems, despite a bad contact at one of the battery
cables.

	Despite the trip without incidents, I would like your opinion on some
"problems":

	1. I can't figure if there is lots of freeplay in the steering or if 
it's
the steering damper that is worn, but it's almost impossible to keep a
straight line without making lots of corrections with the steering wheel.

	2. The fuel indicator jumps a lot after the tank is under half-full, and
reaches very fast the empty indicator (with 5 or more gallons of fuel in
the tank)

	3. Passing 60 Km/h, there is a vibration witch makes lots of noise in 
the
handle of the gearbox. If I put my hand in it the noise is much lower. The
problem seems to be the connection of the handle with the gearbox. Is there
any (and easy) way to correct this?

	It's all for now!

[],

Manuel Silva
mj.ls@usa.net
ICQ#: 12867923

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 10:51:42 -0500
Subject: Re: LPG on Ferries

Chris,

<< Is this because it is heavier than Air? >>

 I believe so. Certainly LPG leaks on boats have been known to cause serious 
explosions. Caravans have "drop out" holes in the gas locker to allow any leaks 
to 
di
sperse.
 
Paul

Ex- H.M. Coastguard SIII SWB
"Dougal Mc Landie"
B895 OJT (1984)
(Navy Blue with a Yellow Roof)

 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Nicholas John Roe" <N.Roe@plymouth.ac.uk>
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 17:22:31 GMT
Subject: Re: Series 3 with oomph - how????

Dear all,

<<I have a 2.25 petrol series 3, and would dearly love it to have 
just a little more go.  I have thought about a V8, but don't like the 
thought of cutting (or paying for that matter).  I have been told 
that I could skim the cylinder head - but the engineering company did 
not know how much to take off.  Does anybody know how much to skim, 
or have any other ideas on how to increase power?>>

Speak to Turner enginering who advertise in LRO, they can do wonders 
with a 2.25l

Nick Roe
Still working on the 67 SIIa.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Keir Hague <keir@whaleyb.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 22:28:02 +0000
Subject: HELP - Please...

Anybody.....

I have a 1981 Series 3, which for some reason has an LWB front axle on,
and thus 2 wheel cylinders on each side.  This weekend, I replaced the
whole braking system, (and found that every single cylinder was
leaking).  My problems started when I came to bleed them.  The backs
bled out no problems, but the fronts are being real pains.  I am told
that this is a known problem on LWB series motors.  A friend told me to
jam the brake pedal down overnight, but I can't really see how this
could work.  Any ideas or suggestions would be gratefully accepted.
-- 
Keir Hague
With a Series motor that dosen't stop!

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "David Levett" <dlevett@pc.jaring.my>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 07:46:47 +0800
Subject: Re: HELP - Please - Series Brakes

Keir Hague wrote: 1981 Series 3, 2 wheel cylinders on each side.

I don't have any experience of this set-up. I am just changing the front
brakes on my SWB and have had no problems. I have used the 'Easy Bleed' kit
before on other vehicles (a reservoir of brake fluid which connects to your
reservoir through a special cap and is pressurised from a spare tyre). This
saves all that "press the brake pedal and hold it down" with, usually the
wife, saying "sorry I thought you meant push it and let go". You can bleed
the brakes on your own.
I don't know whether it will work in your situation - I'm sure someone else
will know that - but I've found it a good investment.
Dave Levitate
dlevett@pc.jaring.my

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Dave Codrai" <dave@codrai.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 23:55:00 -0000
Subject: Re: Series brakes

Keir

>I have a 1981 Series 3, which for some reason has an LWB front axle on,
>and thus 2 wheel cylinders on each side.

Fitting LWB back plates, cylinders, shoes and drums is an easy way of
upgrading SWB brakes, from approx 1980 it was done as standard by Land
Rover.

If this was a DIY conversion it is possible it still has the SWB master
cylinder which has a smaller output capacity and is very difficult to get a
good brake pedal because of the greater amount of fluid to be moved with
four front wheel cylinders.

  This weekend, I replaced the
>whole braking system, (and found that every single cylinder was
>leaking).  My problems started when I came to bleed them.  The backs
>bled out no problems, but the fronts are being real pains.  I am told
>that this is a known problem on LWB series motors.

Assuming you have the correct master cylinder and it is not drawing air past
the seal on the return stroke, remove all the drums and shoes, beg, borrow
or steal six 'G' clamps and use them to hold all the wheel cylinders fully
closed and then bleed the hydraulics, this should be effective.

  A friend told me to
>jam the brake pedal down overnight, but I can't really see how this
>could work.

Blocking the pedal overnight only really works with clutches.

Good luck

Dave

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 20:11:42 -0000
Subject: Re: Brownchurch
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Does that mean you can move it from side to side to change wheels in the =
dry
all round the landie!? That almost makes it better.... still need to buy =
a

it has guy ropes and pegs but I have used it once to sort out an old =
lady's F*rd in a supermarket carpark. Just needed some ingenuity re the =
guy ropes... since then I have bought some s/hand awning poles and =
intend to fit them around the top to make a nearly cube for hard =
surfaces...... for a start it works very well, then just a bit of =
addition and it is brilliant.
especially for the cost :-)>
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+           
     I !__|  [_]|_\___  
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------=_NextPart_000_001D_01BE4D55.EAFC1320
	[ Original post was HTML ]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; ]

	[Attachment  removed, was 47 lines.]	

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
From: "David Levett" <dlevett@pc.jaring.my>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 08:07:55 +0800
Subject: Series Transfer Box
	charset="iso-8859-1"

I have finally got round to changing the bottom plate of the transfer =
box over - Someone has obviously removed it at some point and refitted =
it with the drain plug at the top! It took me ages to remove all the =
'rubbery' gasket maker crap in order to fit a new gasket.
With the plate off, looking at all the 'gears' they all looked in good =
condition, well at least a load of teeth didn't fall out and they all =
looked in place.The centre of the shafts (intermediate gear I think) was =
very badly 'scored' between the gears. Not just marked but, running your =
fingernail across, definite scores - quite deep. Like if you had a bar =
in a lathe and used a rough file on it.
I can't believe that this is 'normal'. My questions are:
What could have caused it?
What is the consequence - short term and long term?

Any advice much appreciated.

Cheers,
Dave Levitate
dlevett@pc.jaring.my

------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BE4DB9.F93F0D20
	[ Original post was HTML ]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; ]

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 11 lines 0 [forwarded 18 whitespace 0]
 Output: lines 357 [content 267  forwarded 18 (cut  0) whitespace 0]

UK/IE Land Rover Owner Additional Information:

In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved
(by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Useful commands for this are 'index uk-lro-digest' which returns a list of
files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc.

UK/EIRE World Wide Web Sites start at 
         http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/pages.html
(shadow) http://www2.Land-Rover.Team.Net/pages.html

If Major Domo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

  -B