The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions uk-lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: d.p.round@bangor.ac.uk
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 09:17:29 GMT
Subject: Re: Lights

> > Land Rovers. About 25UKP gets you real headlights, with 55wt halogen =
> Local Autoshop today had H1 s with a blue glass "Supposed to cut through
> fog better"  "30% Brighter" 55W and 100Watt.  Is that legal for Aux spots
> on road, wired into main beam?  About £ 11-00 for two.

I have read a very damning report of blue tinted lights. For fog use 
there is a special yellow bulb that cuts out only the blue light because
blue light causes most back-scatter and dazzling. The French used to
require yellow blubs because of their many advantages even before
the modern ones that only filter out the blue became available.
The conclusion seems to be that blue lights are for boy racers
and poseurs only. If you want lighting performance get these modern
yellow bulbs. I would also doubt the legality of blue tinted bulbs
though I have been told they are legal un the UK...

I wish I could remember that web site address, it was very convincing.

David

******        David Round - EMail  round@bangor.ac.uk             ******
*****These are my own views, I represent nobody (Well maybe myself)*****
***********I guarantee nothing - Particularly the spelling**************

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Iain Tennant" <i.r.tennant@dundee.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 09:21:35 GMT
Subject: Re: LPG on Ferries

In response:-
> << Does this include Caravans as well... they all have bottled gas in 
them.... >>

Paul Lonsdale wrote:-
> No, they can travel on the "open" (latticed) freight wagons. Gas must be 
turned off at the bottle.

Not quite right Paul.
Caravans travel in the same single-deck  enclosed wagons as coaches, 
mini-buses,  Landies etc.  Bottled gas can be carried in any vehicle 
as long as it complies with their rules.

Regards,

Iain

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 09:49:58 -0000
Subject: Re: LPG (No LR content)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Orlando_Scott-Cowley@watsonwyatt.co.uk
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 09:51:27 +0000
Subject: *** TEST MESSAGE *** PLS IGNORE.

test..

0951.00hrs.

126.96.100.87

Notice of Confidentiality

This transmission is intended for the named addressee only.
It contains information which may be confidential and which may 
also be privileged.
Unless you are the named addressee (or authorised to receive it 
for the addressee) you may not copy or use it, or disclose it 
to anyone else.  If you have received this transmission in error 
please contact:

[spamkill: admin@ input: %s]	 ~admin@watsonwyatt.co.uk   or

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Steve Mace" <steve@solwise.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 10:01:46 -0000
Subject: Heater duct on D90

Could someone please offer any advise with a small 
problem I have with the D90 concering it's heater box air 
inlet?

When I purchased the Defender I had a full wading kit 
fitted complete with remote breathers and snorkel fitted 
by Rogers of Bedford. They fitted the snorkel by first of all 
completely removing the pipe/duct that fits from the inlet 
on the heater box to the wing vent. Then they routed the 
snorkel inlet via the disused wing heater vent to the air 
filter housing. Fine... No problem.... But... the heater box 
now takes it's air from the engine compartment. This 
does create a couple of problems like I get the 
occasional whiff from the heater vents in the dashboard 
and also I can't get a proper cool blast from the 
dashboard vents in the summer. The other big problem is 
if I get water splashing up into the engine bay. When that 
happens the cabin fills up with hot, damp air a bit like 
being in a sauna and immediately all the windows steam 
up. 
I would like to reroute some form of piped heater inlet so 
that the heater takes it's air from the outside world again. 
My first thourgth was the now disused side vent that the 
engine air inlet used to use. Problem is I don't know what 
the original pipe for the heater inlet used to look like nor 
what connection looks like on the side vent. The heater 
box seems to have a very large inlet hole with a very 
small lip on it. This looks like it's going to make fitting a 
flexi inlet pipe very difficult.
Does anyone possible have a picture of what the original 
pipe work looked like concerning the air inlet for the 
heater? Also does anyone perhaps have any suggestions 
about how I might be able to do this repiping in the 
easiest and most aesthtically pleasing manner?

Thanks...

Steve

1972 SIII LtWt
1993 D90
In the UK
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: steve@solwise.co.uk
www: http://www.solwise.co.uk
Tel: +44 1482 621888
Fax: +44 1482 621877

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 10:01:56 -0000
Subject: Re: dents and suppliers

If the dent is between the ridges, ie the centre section of the bonnet...
Dont pay a panel beater a fortune the beat it out.

Just stick a nice chequer plate bonnet protector over it, It makes it
stronger, to stand on, and looks good too.
They cost about 35UKP (ish)

Alloy panel beating is not so easy, Alloy is soft, and needs to be heat
treated to anneal it (soften).

Its easy to melt the alloy as it has quite a low melting point I am not sure
but i think its as low as 350-400 deg c.

I use Paddocks near Derby, in preference to Craddocks (in Cannock).

A pal of mine had a big problem with a gearbox Paddocks sent him, and they
sorted it out very well indeed, and they paid for it to be changed as
well!... Most impressed.
OK it took a week of sorting, but they they ated quickly and efficiently.

I have had an order from craddock split up and sent two weeks apart... not
so impressed with them..

Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin

This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.

EMail      geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).

'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 10:06:02 -0000
Subject: Re: Brownchurch

>Geoff, get down to Argos, get a "garden canopy" for 17.50UKP, hangs off =
>the roof rack fine, will stand alone, best of both worlds.....
>I've had one three years now, paid for itself many a wet night.
>Best Cheers

Whats the part number?...

Or is it very obvoius, for  a mere southerner to work out!...

Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin

This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.

EMail      geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).

'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

[spamkill: @yahoo\. input: %s]	 Return-Path: <lp2906@yahoo.com>
[spamkill: @yahoo\. input: %s]	 From: Jock Sturock <lp2906@yahoo.com>

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

[spamkill: @yahoo\. input: %s]	 Return-Path: <lp2906@yahoo.com>
[spamkill: @yahoo\. input: %s]	 From: Jock Sturock <lp2906@yahoo.com>

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 10:39:44 -0000
Subject: Re: New Land Rover owner

.> 1. I can't figure if there is lots of freeplay in the steering or if it's
.>the steering damper that is worn, but it's almost impossible to keep a
.>straight line without making lots of corrections with the steering wheel.

Check out ALL the steering joints for wear / play. I believe there is a
small adjuster on the steering box, but dont overdo it!... read the amnual
for adjustment.
Check out the Shock absorbers as well.
Check out the tyre pressures!, and are all the tyres the same type?.

.> 2. The fuel indicator jumps a lot after the tank is under half-full, and
.>reaches very fast the empty indicator (with 5 or more gallons of fuel in
.>the tank)

Ah Ha... they alll empty quickly!... 15Mpg doesnt half get rid of the fuel
quick!.
I just fill mine based on mileage, I know I get 350+ per tank full, and have
approx 80-100 miles in reserve.

.> 3. Passing 60 Km/h, there is a vibration witch makes lots of noise in the
.>handle of the gearbox. If I put my hand in it the noise is much lower. The
.>problem seems to be the connection of the handle with the gearbox. Is
there
.>any (and easy) way to correct this?

I think there is a little peg or plastic bit situated around the large ball
section of the gear stick. It may have worn out.

Perhaps the others on the list could refresh my mind on this one..

Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin

This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.

EMail      geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).

'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 10:42:21 -0000
Subject: Re: HELP - Please...

May bee I am wrong...

BUT... the LWB cylinders will need more fluid to fill them out, and can the
old Master cylinder shove that much fluid down the pipes in one press of the
pedal?... does this guy need a LWB master clyinder?... is there a difference
between LWB and SWB master cylinders?
Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin

This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.

EMail      geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).

'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Estibeiro" <petere@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 10:41:30 +0000
Subject: Re: New Land Rover owner

Hi Manuel
 I hope you enjoy your new landrover.
> 	1. I can't figure if there is lots of freeplay in the steering or if 
it's
> the steering damper that is worn, but it's almost impossible to keep a
> straight line without making lots of corrections with the steering wheel.
Sounds like free play.  The steering box can be adjusted and there 
are lots of ball-joints (6 or 7) I think in the steering system which 
could be worn.  Get a friend to rock the steering and you crawl 
underneath and feel each of the joints.  Set the steering box and 
replace any worn joints and make sure the tracking is correct and the 
steering can be pretty good.
> 	2. The fuel indicator jumps a lot after the tank is under half-full, and
> reaches very fast the empty indicator (with 5 or more gallons of fuel in
> the tank)

I think a novelty fuel guage was fitted as standard to most 
landrovers :-)

> 	3. Passing 60 Km/h, there is a vibration witch makes lots of noise in 
the
> handle of the gearbox. If I put my hand in it the noise is much lower. The
> problem seems to be the connection of the handle with the gearbox. Is there
> any (and easy) way to correct this?
There is a rubber O-ring at the bottom of the lever to prevent it 
rattling in the gate.  Yours is probably missing.

Hope this helps
Cheers
Peter.

Peter Estibeiro
Membrane Biology Group
Department of Biomedical Science
University of Edinburgh
Edinburgh EH8 9XD
tel: 44 131 6503731
fax: 44 131 6503711
email peter.estibeiro@ed.ac.uk

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Dave Haynes <david.haynes@roke.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 10:45:34 -0800
Subject: Rust Release Agents

"Davidge, Anthony" <antony_davidge@merck.com> wrote :-

>same job 18 months ago I used a product called ''Release-it'' made/supplied
>by RS Components (I think) this stuff is at least 100x better than WD40 and

My local tool supplier, CP Fasteners in Portsmouth, sells a wonderful product 
called
Rust-Ease which is made in the US. I, being a sucker for the world of 
advertising,
bought a bottle for about #2.50. Shortly afterwards, being much impressed, I 
went back
and bought two more, figuring that if its so good it must be full of hazardous
chemicals and be illegal to sell :-)

But it did shift 2 of 3 of the manifold > exhaust studs on my Rangie, and 
several
recalcitrant bits of rear suspension. Definatly the best product I've tried.

Dave

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 10:47:13 -0000
Subject: Re: Lights

I read a very interesting report, that the Migrane sufferesr organisation
are trying to get these new "blue" lights banned as they cause migrane
sufferers to have more migranes... So much for technology!..

Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin

This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.

EMail      geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).

'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Saunders.Richard" <Richard.Saunders@haltoncollege.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 10:50:17 -0000 

Frank 

Your Back Page witterings in LROi are the first thing that is "looked at"
and they and your list communications are held in reverance etc.

I am aware that some head lights are better than others and as I have found
out over the last three days some are very poor quality and may be
dangerous...

I was just trying to find out which setups give problems, which are fine and
which are naughty!  

I spent Sunday evening on the M25 a new experience for a North Wales ite and
the number of mall adjusted Headlights and other lights in Blue, Green and
Purple!

Thanks to you and All other kind persons who responded to my cry for help

If you would like to contribute and or have a conversion please Email me, as
the info is not only for series LRs but any with 7" round lights.

Thanks Richard

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: d.p.round@bangor.ac.uk
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 10:57:27 GMT
Subject: Re: HELP - Please...

> May bee I am wrong...
> BUT... the LWB cylinders will need more fluid to fill them out, and can the
> old Master cylinder shove that much fluid down the pipes in one press of the
> pedal?... does this guy need a LWB master clyinder?... is there a difference
> between LWB and SWB master cylinders?

There is a difference. Personally I would consider it essential to change
the master cylinder if you change to the twin leading shoe LWB brakes but
it will work with the SWB cylinder IME the brakes just felt spongy and the
pedal went down farther than I liked..

******        David Round - EMail  round@bangor.ac.uk             ******
*****These are my own views, I represent nobody (Well maybe myself)*****
***********I guarantee nothing - Particularly the spelling**************

       

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Andy Gardiner <101_nut@shedcity.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 11:09:40 +0000
Subject: Re: The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

In message <bulk.4140.19990201000540@Land-Rover.Team.Net>, owner-uk-lro-
digest@playground.sun.com writes
>       Finally I'm a Land Rover owner!

Welcome to the fold!

>       Despite the trip without incidents, I would like your opinion on some
>"problems":

Ahem ...
>       1. I can't figure if there is lots of freeplay in the steering or if 
>it's
>the steering damper that is worn, but it's almost impossible to keep a
>straight line without making lots of corrections with the steering wheel.

You've just purchased a Land Rover - you've just found out what LR
steering is like! If there is a large amount of play (I mean *lots*)
then check all through the steering joints for severely worn ones and
the steering box for excess play. All the wear is cumulative so if in
doubt replace the joint.
FYI Land Rovers are supposed to have some play in the steering to allow
for some wheel movement off-road without ripping the steering wheel out
of the driver's hand. I don't know whether your vehicle has a steering
damper fitted - AFAIK most series motors don't.

>       2. The fuel indicator jumps a lot after the tank is under half-full, and
>reaches very fast the empty indicator (with 5 or more gallons of fuel in
>the tank)
>straight line without making lots of corrections with the steering wheel.

Sounds as if the fuel sender in the tank is suspect.

>       3. Passing 60 Km/h, there is a vibration witch makes lots of noise in 
>the
>handle of the gearbox. If I put my hand in it the noise is much lower. The
>problem seems to be the connection of the handle with the gearbox. Is there
>any (and easy) way to correct this?

You could try clamping a wieght to the stick at a point that damps the
vibration. On the other hand, the gearbox might be suspect. It may just
be that the selector forks are not quite engaged properly in gear and
need adjusting (can be done without removing the gearbox) or that the
gearbox is past its best. If this is the case and it's not jumping out
of any gear yet I'd wait and see what happens unless you really like
gearbox rebuilding.

-- 
Andy Gardiner

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Andy Gardiner <101_nut@shedcity.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 10:49:23 +0000
Subject: lights

For my ha'penny worth ...

There are some 'Volkswagen fitting' headlights that do the job
admirably. My mate fitted a pair at the suggestion of the MOT tester
after having to dry his out at the MOT station! They're a standard
volkswagen fit - work well and are cheap (esp. if you can find a pair
scrapped!)
-- 
Andy Gardiner

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter BRADLEY" <pbrad@dial.pipex.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 11:33:08 -0000
Subject: Re: Heater duct on D90

>dashboard vents in the summer. The other big problem is
>if I get water splashing up into the engine bay. When that
>happens the cabin fills up with hot, damp air a bit like
>being in a sauna and immediately all the windows steam
>up.

One Ibex owner cured this by snorkelling the heater.  Two identical
snorkels - the engine breathing through the left pipe, the heater drawing
air through the right pipe.

cheers
Peter B

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter BRADLEY" <pbrad@dial.pipex.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 11:20:55 -0000
Subject: Re: To vent or not to vent ???

>I have been advised that after 70,000km I need to place front and rear
>rotors.

You drive a Chinook ?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Simon Minshall <simon@cinesite.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 11:55:41 +0000
Subject: Re: Brownchurch

>Geoff, get down to Argos, get a "garden canopy" for 17.50UKP, hangs off =
>the roof rack fine, will stand alone, best of both worlds.....
>I've had one three years now, paid for itself many a wet night.

Hmm, Cheap.  I was thinking of making my own out of Codura Nylon and a
roller blind core, but I doubt I could even get the material alone for
17.50UKP.

Simon

-- 
Simon Minshall                              
Imaging Systems Engineer                    9 Carlisle Street
Cinesite Digital Studios                    London    W1V 5RG
http://www.cinesite.co.uk                   tel:0171-973-4000
mailto:simon@cinesite.co.uk                 fax:0171-973-4040

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Dave Ladell <ladell@proasisn.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 11:51:24 +0000
Subject: Re: To vent or not to vent ???

Peter BRADLEY wrote;
>>I have been advised that after 70,000km I need to place front and rear
>>rotors.
>You drive a Chinook ?

Fuel consumption can't be much worse than a Landy ;-)  And it'd sure beat
sitting in traffic!!

Cheers,

Dave Ladell  
'75 Lightweight 2.5TD 
nr. Buxton, Derbyshire, UK

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Dave Codrai" <dave@codrai.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 13:12:12 -0000
Subject: Re: To vent or not to vent ???

Jock

>I have been advised that after 70,000km I need to place front and rear
>rotors. The question is, what is better, Vented fronts / solid rears,
>or solid all round.
>Any comments ?

CAUTION

If you are going to change your brake disc's (rotors) then replace with the
same as you remove, because the callipers and pads for vented disc's are
different from the ones for solids, (vented disc's are thicker than solids)
at least they are on Range Rovers and I assume Discovery's are the same.

Dave

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Elwyn York <Elwyn@ey-eg.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 13:19:27 +0000
Subject: Wheel Nut Pointers (as on Busses & Trucks)

Dear All

If those of you are interested in them, the "wheel nut pointers" that are
on busses and trucks, that are there to show you (at a quick glance) that
none of your nuts have dropped off or are loose.  If you go to your local
automotive services, such as truck garages/repair centres, you need to ask
for the ones, 27mm (mine, SWB S3) for a 7.5T HGV.  They cost £0.48 each...

If that makes sense.

Bye 
Elwyn
LR S3 '72 (Very Dented) Lightweight. [47 FL 06] 
"Sub Aerodynamic Green Brick" ICQ: 17087824.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Patrick Colbeck <pat.colbeck@esc.azlan.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 13:30:56 +0000
Subject: Re: To vent or not to vent ???

On Mon Feb 01, 1999 at 01:12:12PM -0000, Dave Codrai wrote:
> Jock
> >I have been advised that after 70,000km I need to place front and rear
> >rotors. The question is, what is better, Vented fronts / solid rears,
>   [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
> >or solid all round.
> >Any comments ?

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
> different from the ones for solids, (vented disc's are thicker than solids)
> at least they are on Range Rovers and I assume Discovery's are the same.

They are the same on Dicoveries and Range Rovers (at least the non vented
ones are) as I replaced my non vented Range Rover front calipers with
Discovery ones. A lttle tip if you are going for ones from a breaker, some
breakers charge nearly twice the price for Discovery parts as for old Range
Rover parts as to the general public Discovery parts are more "in demand" so
tell them is for a Range Rover.

Pat

-- 

 Patrick Colbeck 	  email: pat.colbeck@esc.azlan.co.uk          
 Senior Analyst            tel:  you dont seriously expect me to 
 Azlan Ltd                       give that out on the internet do you ?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "T.D.I.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 13:42:24 -0000
Subject: Re: 90 Air Can

>When I fitted tha raised air intake to my SIII SWB, I swapped the oil bath
>air filter for a paper element type as fitted to early 90s/110s.  My
>question is, should there be a rubber seal between the two halves of this
>type of air canister?

There should be a large diameter O-ring around the flange in the top part of
the housing. I had trouble getting one, so I made one up with some 2.4mm
O-ring cord from RS and a spot of superglue.

Tom Stevenson
University Marine Biological Station, Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel: 01475 530581  Fax: 01475 530601  Email: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
Web page: http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine/

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 14:32:55 -0000
Subject: Re: New Land Rover owner

. The
>> problem seems to be the connection of the handle with the gearbox. Is
there
>> any (and easy) way to correct this?
>There is a rubber O-ring at the bottom of the lever to prevent it
>rattling in the gate.  Yours is probably missing.

Ah Ha... I knew it was a plasticky / rubber bit down there somewhere...
Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin

This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.

EMail      geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).

'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 14:37:28 -0000
Subject: Re: Heater duct on D90

>One Ibex owner cured this by snorkelling the heater.  Two identical
>snorkels - the engine breathing through the left pipe, the heater drawing
>air through the right pipe.

WOW!!!... The Ultimate POSER.... Twin Air intakes (and a  V8), and twin
Exhausts.... Gotta be a pose-mobile...

Mind you... I like the Idea....

Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin

This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.

EMail      geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).

'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 14:51:02 -0000
Subject: Re: To vent or not to vent ???

Beats the proposed toll charges on Motorways!..

Does'nt it!.... Where do the Army get rid of their Chinooks?....I could just
about park it on the front garden.... might even get it around the back if I
knock the neighbours fence down.

It would beat the traffic Jams in Cornwall later this year when i go to see
the eclipse!...

What a great Idea.,

Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin

This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.

EMail      geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).

'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 14:58:18 -0000
Subject: Re: Brownchurch

The one I saw at Rogers used the reverse rollerblind method.
ie the sheet was fixed to the roofrack, and the loose end was rolled up
round the pole.

What they had was two (very long)triangular supports that folded up against
the side of the land rover.
These were swung out at 90degrees to the landy.
Then the sheet was unrolled, and fixed to the end of the swung out bits.
The fixing was even simpler... there is a hole in the end of the swung out
bit, and the little floppy catch from a tailgate which was fixed onto each
end of the roller pole. These catches were just put thru the holes and then
the catch just was fixed like on the tailgate.

So simple, and literally two minutes to deploy the whole (self supporting)
canopy.

OK... expensive.... but really nice. I think I could make one cheaper, but
not as nice! (quality wise).

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 15:20:32 +0000
Subject: Re: To vent or not to vent ???

>It would beat the traffic Jams in Cornwall later this year when i go to see
>the eclipse!...

Taken out a second mortgage,or are you camping in the Rover?

Mike Rooth

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Neill Hogarth" <Neill.Hogarth@allgaeu.org>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 19:11:23 +0100
Subject: Re: dents and suppliers

Dents..
Geoff Wilkins wrote.
>Just stick a nice chequer plate bonnet protector over it, It makes it
>stronger, to stand on, and looks good too. They cost about 
>35UKP (ish)

Thought about that but it is on the side <hump> so a plate is no 
use. Looks like it is time to experiment with panel bashing (gulp)

Suppliers...
Geoff Wilkins wrote.
>I use Paddocks near Derby, in preference to Craddocks (in 
>Cannock).

I sent a request to both firms for a quote for a few parts. Paddocks 
replied. Craddocks haven't (a week later). Bearmach was quicker 
and cheaper so they got the order. 

Now I just need to see if they deliver <in a few days> as promised.

As an aside - we have about a meter of snow here. The top half is 
powder so guess what my new (old) LR was up to yesterday. 
Luckily a friend owns a bit of a forest so we <had> to go and check 
that it was all OK. Nearly as good as snow boarding!

Neill Hogarth

Nesselwang -
 - in the Bavarian Alps

Neill.Hogarth@allgaeu.org
ICQ 11799898

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Rob Smith" <rob@archenland.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 18:59:21 -0000
Subject: RE: Heater duct on D90

Doesn't the Wolf have a heater intake that faces downward?  If so, does
anyone know what the part number & prices is?

Rob Smith
Mine's the blue 110

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Andrew Oakford" <Andrew.Oakford@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 19:45:42 -0000
Subject: Re: HELP - Please - Series Brakes

I to would recomend an easy bleed type affair, no problems with my  dual
cylinder s3 swb with this.

andy

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

[spamkill: @[0-9][0-9]* input: %s]	 Message-ID: 
<01be4e1d$783e00a0$LocalHost@2286>

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Matthew Reeve & Mel Mauger" <blatchwood@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 19:05:45 -0000
Subject: Re: To vent or not to vent ???

>It would beat the traffic Jams in Cornwall later this year when i go to see
>the eclipse!...

>Geoff Wilkin

We're going down as well hopefully. I've heard that they're expecting huge
traffic jams in the area, so I'll be asking local guys about any suitable
greenlane short cuts nearer the time :-))
Do you (or anyone else going down) fancy meeting up?

Matthew
UK, nr Heathrow
1979 2-dr Range Rover 300Tdi

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Peter Venters <peter@hoiho.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 22:27:29 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Dorking

Well here I am, through no fault of my own, with a new job and new life in
leafy Surrey. Can anyone suggest any Land-Rover aware garages suitable for
an attempt on an MoT for a 1955 Series 1 now fitted with a Perkins diesel? 
I'm not after any shady characters or dodgy deals, just someone who is
fair minded and aware of the appropriate regulations and who wont destroy
the transmission while testing the handbrake...needs to be in the Dorking
area.

And am I right in thinking that Halleys of Dorking are no more?

Thanks,

Peter

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Dave White" <dave@bang.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 23:43:00 -0000
Subject: Re: Lights

>I read a very interesting report, that the Migrane sufferesr organisation
>are trying to get these new "blue" lights banned as they cause migrane
>sufferers to have more migranes... So much for technology!..

It was all over watchdog healthcheck tonight....

Dave White
'82 V8 Stage 1 SW (Light Green)
'69 2.6 LWB 2A (in bits)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Finch, Mark" <Mark.Finch@BSKYB.COM>
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 06:15:00 -0000 
Subject: RE: New Land Rover owner

Wecome to the world of Land Rovers
 ----------
From: Manuel Silva
Subject: New Land Rover owner
Date: Sunday, January 31, 1999 3:41PM

	Finally I'm a Land Rover owner!
	It's a 1973 Diesel LWB SIII. I went to pick it up yesterday and
drove home
almost 500 Km without problems, despite a bad contact at one of the battery
cables.

	Despite the trip without incidents, I would like your opinion on
some
"problems":

	1. I can't figure if there is lots of freeplay in the steering or if
it's
the steering damper that is worn, but it's almost impossible to keep a
straight line without making lots of corrections with the steering wheel.

	2. The fuel indicator jumps a lot after the tank is under half-full,
and
reaches very fast the empty indicator (with 5 or more gallons of fuel in
the tank)

	3. Passing 60 Km/h, there is a vibration witch makes lots of noise
in the
handle of the gearbox. If I put my hand in it the noise is much lower. The
problem seems to be the connection of the handle with the gearbox. Is there
any (and easy) way to correct this?

	It's all for now!

[],

Manuel Silva
mj.ls@usa.net
ICQ#: 12867923

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Mats.Rundqvist@saab.se
Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 08:19:31 +0100
Subject: Fan question

This may be a very basic question for anyone more familiar with things under
the bonnet than I am. I have a Defender with a 200 TDi engine. My question is:
Shall the fan be able to move freely with the engine shut off, and shall it
move when the engine is idling? In the former case I can give it a light push
and it spins very easily. In the latter case it barely moves though the fan
belt is moving.
--
Mats Rundqvist
Linkoping, Sweden

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 40 lines 2031 [forwarded 112 whitespace 0]
 Output: lines 1190 [content 963  forwarded 104 (cut  8) whitespace 0]

UK/IE Land Rover Owner Additional Information:

In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved
(by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Useful commands for this are 'index uk-lro-digest' which returns a list of
files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc.

UK/EIRE World Wide Web Sites start at 
         http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/pages.html
(shadow) http://www2.Land-Rover.Team.Net/pages.html

If Major Domo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

  -B