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From: "Dave White" <dave@bang.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 07:51:56 -0000
Subject: Re: GPS suppliers

>agricultural
>stuff....<<<<<
>ah, of course, Sea Horses :-)>

Ho Ho ..... no grat big combines (and they let me drive one although only
cos our unit was not working!)

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From: "Dave White" <dave@bang.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 08:09:15 -0000
Subject: Re: Strange Screeching Noise

>Sound like the kind of thing a Cavalier of mine used to do, the belt
>going to the power steering pump was a bit loose.  When on full
>lock the extra strain exerted on the belt by the pump caused it to
>slip. (I assume an 84 Range Rover has Power Steering, don't know
>to much about them)

I think the Cavalier was actually designed to screech when you have full
lock on, all the ones I have been in with PS did it.....

Dave White
'82 V8 Stage 1 SW (Light Green)
'69 2.6 LWB 2A (in bits)

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From: Matthew Wild <wild@wdcc1.bnsc.rl.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 08:15:39 GMT
Subject: RE: How many can a SIII 109 seat?

> Pub runs with a 110 are:
> Two in the 'cab'
> Four each side in the rear., suing bench seats.
> That makes 10.
> If you have the normal 'knee groper' in the middle of the front (only for
> the use of young ladies in short skirts......)  you get 11.
> I think I could get more in, but the tool & rubbish boxes get in the way.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> Rob Smith
> Mine's the blue 110

I once managed to get a rugby team plus reserve plus supporter (17) in the 110! 
It was a bit cramped as you can imagine. Luckily we only had to travel a couple 
of miles to the pitch, but it was through the center of the town and we did see 
a rather surprised policeman.

Matthew

-- 
Matthew Wild
M.Wild@rl.ac.uk                    URL http://www.wdc.rl.ac.uk/

110 LandRover CSW V8 EFi, 1983, Green & Creme

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From: Robin.Kelland@bacon-woodrow.co.uk
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 09:09:29 +0000
Subject: Re: Water Pressure

Thanks for all the replies. In answer to some of the questions, I have
tried 2 caps, both of which are rated at 9 whatever, but both of which I
got with the vehicle when I bought it. They both look like originals from
1973, but I can't be certain. I have also flushed out the whole engine
several times (both oil flush and coolant flush)

As for is it actually boiling, and how long does it take etc. before I
replaced the thermostat, it was running at about 1/4 way up the temp gague
no matter how I drove it, hence the replacement. However, when I got the
vehicle, with the old thermostat in it, it also used to boil over if
thrashed, but as at the time I wasn't thrashing it much, I didn't change
it. It was only when my f'ing Alpha broke down, and I drove the Landy
20miles to work and back ever day for a couple of weeks, that the old
thermostat seemed to give up and remain stuck open.  With the new one, it
is almost like you could drive all week at 30mph without too much problems,
but at 40 or 50, you only get about 20 mins of running at perfect
temperature before too much water vanishes, and then it heats up. I
actually drove it round the block a few times the other day to get it up to
temperature, then when strait home and stopped the engine.  Sure enough,
the (previously empty) expansion tank was full of happily boiling away
water, which kept boiling away merrily for quite some time (several
minutes) after the engine had been stopped.

I am actually wondering if the water pump is actually on its last legs, and
at high engine speeds, is just not pumping the water fast enough to keep
things cool enough long enough??  I hope it isn't the head cracked! I am
trying to avoid taking the head off for as long as possible, as I am
planning to do an Unleaded conversion on it (yes I know, I have to do the
block as well on my engine), and I don't want to do that yet! I know that
as soon as I take the head off, I will start on the conversion.  Also, if
it was the head or gasket, would I not see white gunge appearing in the
coolant?. Would it not have eventually boiled over with the old thermostat
stuck open after doing 40-50 mph for a good Half an hour?  I am confused!!

I guess the next step is to get a new Cap from a decent Landy place that
has actually heard of the 2.6 6 Cylinder engine, unlike my local motor
factors.

Robin

This communication is intended solely for the addressee and is
confidential.

If you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, copying,
distribution or any action taken or omitted to be taken in reliance on it,
is prohibited and may be unlawful.

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From: chris.mokes@symbian.com
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 09:19:38 GMT
Subject: Re[2]: Water Pressure 

     Try getting a genuine radiator cap from a LR dealer.  I replaced mine 
     the other week and it was much cheaper than I expected, like cheaper 
     than H*******.
     
     Chris
      

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From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 10:07:16 +0000
Subject: Re: Water Pressure

Robin.Kelland@bacon-woodrow.co.uk wrote:

.  With the new one, it
> is almost like you could drive all week at 30mph without too much problems,
> but at 40 or 50, you only get about 20 mins of running at perfect
> temperature before too much water vanishes, and then it heats up. I
> actually drove it round the block a few times the other day to get it up to
> temperature, then when strait home and stopped the engine.  Sure enough,
> the (previously empty) expansion tank was full of happily boiling away
> water, which kept boiling away merrily for quite some time (several
> minutes) after the engine had been stopped.

I haven't paid much attention to this thread since I know nothing about
the 6 cylinder engines, but; my 2.25 is using water and I can't find
where thats going.
So when you mention the expansion tank do you mean the top of the
radiator or the bottle at the side with the pipe going into it from the
radiator filler?
The reason I ask is that I don't have a bottle at the side whereas my
mate's does, so when the water in mine gets hot and expands it comes out
of the metal tube on the side of the filler then through a plastic tube
to run out on the floor. I keep meaning to get an overflow bottle to
collect this but still ..... (one day maybe), the radiator I have on
mine is I believe a standard Series III I got some years ago from
Paddocks and its been fine until fairly recently (6 months or so). 
Comparing my header tank with my sons IIa header tank, mine is much
smaller hence I thought that is why I need an overflow bottle. I have
thought of pinching his radiator for a bit to see if it still looses
water, but he's not keen on that idea.
I check it every day and it takes about a pint to fill it every other
day. The temperature gauge rarely gets up to 1/4 except in crawling
traffic jams up hills, not something I do everyday!
I also have no sign of white goo in the oil or the like. 

Let us know if you find anything, good luck!!

Mick Forster
1972 109" Series III Safari 2.25 petrol 
1963 88" Series IIa 2.25 petrol
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/landpics.html

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From: DrytecLtd@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 07:44:09 EST
Subject: Number of Seats

UK spec 109 station wagons used to be 12 seaters, 3 in the front, 3 in the
middle and 3 each side in the back. (All good friends and lots of playing
kneezy in the back!)

Overseas spec. 109 SWs were 10 seaters, one less on each side in the back.
Thus different rear side seats. The middle transverse seat was also different,
and set a bit further back if I remember.

I'm not sure if this applies to 110s.

I can probably look up the 109 part numbers if you want.

Gordon

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From: "Steve Mace" <steve@solwise.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 13:53:52 -0000
Subject: Re: Water Pressure

I used to suffer the same problem until I spotted in the 
parts book that I should have an expansion bottle. I fitted 
the bottle and I've never had to top it up since.

On 24 Feb 99, at 10:07, Mick Forster wrote:

> The reason I ask is that I don't have a bottle at the side whereas my
> mate's does, so when the water in mine gets hot and expands it comes out
> of the metal tube on the side of the filler then through a plastic tube
> to run out on the floor. I keep meaning to get an overflow bottle to
> collect this but still ..... (one day maybe), the radiator I have on
> mine is I believe a standard Series III I got some years ago from
> Paddocks and its been fine until fairly recently (6 months or so). 

Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: steve@solwise.co.uk
www: http://www.solwise.co.uk
Tel: +44 1482 621888
Fax: +44 1482 621877

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From: "Peter Estibeiro" <petere@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 15:26:55 +0000
Subject: paradox

This morning I finally cured a nasty misfire on my seriesIII.  It 
made me wonder:
Why does a Landrover firing on only three cylinders use so much more 
petrol that one which is burning petrol in all four cylinders? :-)

Cheers
Peter.

Peter Estibeiro
Membrane Biology Group
Department of Biomedical Science
University of Edinburgh
Edinburgh EH8 9XD
tel: 44 131 6503731
fax: 44 131 6503711
email peter.estibeiro@ed.ac.uk

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From: Mike Gavins<MIKE@vrsolns.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 15:19:40 +0000
Subject: Re: Water Pressure

Steve wrote:
> I used to suffer the same problem until I spotted in the 
> parts book that I should have an expansion bottle. I fitted 
> the bottle and I've never had to top it up since.

Not only that but there is also a sealing  washer which does not come 
with the cap and fits on the cap such as to seal the topmost rim of
the radiator against the cap. The important thing about this is that 
any coolant which escapes into the expansion bottle can be sucked 
back when the engine cools.

Can't sort out at the moment how this works, but after I fitted it, 
the expansion bottle no longer needed emptying every now and again 
when it started to overflow. Is there a one-way valve of some sort 
incorporated in the cap?

Mike

================================
Mike Gavins
Virtual Presence Ltd
Chester House
79 Dane Road
Sale
Cheshire  M33 7BP
United Kingdom
  Tel: +44 161 969 1155
  Fax: +44 161 969 1166
  Email: m.gavins@vrsolns.co.uk
================================  

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From: chris.mokes@symbian.com
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 16:07:56 GMT
Subject: Re: paradox 

     I would guess that it's because you have your foot down further to 
     compensate for the lack of a cylinder, so to maintain the same 
     performance you burn more petrol in the 3 working ones, and waste it 
     in the 4th.
     
     Why was it misfiring?  I had a nasty misfire after the last time I 
     serviced mine, it worked fine when cold, terrible when hot and under 
     load.  I replaced the new plugs with some more new ones and not a 
     problem since.
     
     Chris
     

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From: "Peter Estibeiro" <petere@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 17:02:39 +0000
Subject: Re: paradox 

>      Why was it misfiring?  I had a nasty misfire after the last time I 
>      serviced mine, 
The HT leads had gone bad.  I don't know why, they were not very old 
and it took a while before I suspected them.  Changing any one made 
no difference but when I changed the whole set for the ones on the 
seriesI the problem cured.  The bad leads are Bosch silicon so I'm 
surprised they've gone off in less than 6 months.

Peter.

Peter Estibeiro
Membrane Biology Group
Department of Biomedical Science
University of Edinburgh
Edinburgh EH8 9XD
tel: 44 131 6503731
fax: 44 131 6503711
email peter.estibeiro@ed.ac.uk

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From: John Strang <john.strang@bbc.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 18:07:03 -0000
Subject: Re Tyres for a Leica?

	Jan Wrote:

> After coming to the conclusion that a set of new tyres to replace the
> silly
> looking 205's would be of more use then a Leica camera that is not used
> most
> of the time I now have the money to take the 109 back to its original
> looks.<<

	You can restore a Landie for the price of a camera.. wow.. 
	that must be one expensive camera
	What sort of Leica was it, (yes, I'm an amateur pornogr,
	err sorry, should have read Amateur Photographer)..
	and I also looked at buying a Leica (many years ago, when I
	could afford such toys).. 

	Regards:

	strange john		john.strang@bbc.co.uk(UK nr heathrow)
1994 LSE
1976 Series III SWB
1998 Speed III

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From: "Rob Smith" <rob@archenland.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 18:34:39 -0000
Subject: RE: How many can a SIII 109 seat?

To the gear lever?

Seriously, this is why I replaced the centre seat with a cubby box - deters
people from getting their faces modified by ugly gear levers....

Rob Smith
Mine's the blue 110

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From: The Bickertons <Bickerton@compuserve.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 15:56:41 -0500
Subject: Quantifying the space inside a LandRover

The information you want to hear is:

LR UK make 3 types of bench seat, a 2 seater (for the rear of the County
SWB), a 3-seater (for the rear of the County LWB) and I have also seen full
length, 6ft bench seats in the hardtop-van (non-SW) LWB. So I suppose it
depends what seats you put in.

OTOH if you want to know how many people you can get in a LR, my PB is 10
in an 88" hardtop non-SW (remember a Ninety is longer), and the space
between the front seats was still free (occupied by a budget cubbystore, or
cardboard apple box).

Alternatively, put five people in the rear of a S3 88 hardtop all facing
inwards, stand a 205x16 tyre on a rim upright between them (at their
insistence, I said it might hurt on corners) and watch them reorganise when
it hurts on the first corner. They managed to get it from | to _ without
anyone getting out. I thought that was impressive, anyway.

Cheers,
John B

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 22:18:15 +0100
Subject: Defender station wagons

Due to some interesting loophole in the Danish tax system, film
companies, along with schools, handicap organisations and rock
orchestras are able to buy new vehicles which are classified as busses
without paying the otherwise exhorbitant import duties.

My company has a VW LT35D under this rule, but being 11 years old, I am
considering replacing it with something more modern. And I have
discovered that a LR Defender 110 Station wagon is also acceptable under
these rules.

Before leaping head first into a splinter new 300Tdi Defender SW, I have
a few questions which others on the list might be able to answer?

How comfortable are the second row of seats? Can these be replaced with
seats similar to the front seats? Is there room to move the second row
of seats back an inch or two (I will be removing the rear bench seats to
make room for a equipment compartment for my film gear) thus giving a
little more leg room.

How reliable is the 300 tdi motor? Is is easy to work on if I want do do
my own routine repairs and maintenance?

Why hasn't LR discovered the beuty of the fully galvanised chassis yet?
(I have just ordered one today for my 109, and at 13000 kroner it's a
snip - shouldn't this be standard?)

What are the standard or recommended wheel rims / tyres for these
creatures?

Is permanent 4WD better/different to Series 2/4 wheel drive? How?

Do defenders corrode just as much as their predecessors? (I have already
consiodered buying a splinter new Defender, and before driving it on the
road, stripping it completly and galvanising everything in sight, but
that's another story...)

How does a moderatly loaded D110 station wagon with 5 or 6 passengers
and a pile of film gear perform in comparison to say a VW
transporter/Caravelle or an Astra or Espace minibus? I am thinking of
long haul motorway driving.

Thanks for any advice you folks may be able to offer...

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
      Visit the "Native Experience" website at 
          http://www.channel6.dk/native
Contact the "Native Experience" film unit in Alaska
          telephone   +1 (907) 230 0359
          e-mail      channel6@alaska.net
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

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From: "Dave Codrai" <dave@codrai.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 23:49:30 -0000
Subject: Re: Water Pressure

Robin

Radiator cap rating is 9 psi or 0.6 bar
Thermostat should open between 75 - 80 degrees C

The rating on the rad cap is the amount of pressure that will be allowed to
build up in the cooling system as it heats up, heat water get expansion
therefore pressure, for every 1 psi it raises the boiling point of the water
by 1 degree C, the spring in the cap regulates the pressure therefore with
an old or weak spring the water will boil at a lower temperature than
specified.

If a thermostat is stuck open and the rest of the cooling system OK then it
should never boil, doing 40-50 mph for half an hour would just about get it
up to working temperature.

Any temperature gauge is only a very rough indication of actual water
temperature, if you changed the gauge or the sender unit you would get a
different reading.

Things to check:

Fill radiator to top and run engine with rad cap off, if bubbling occurs at
rad straight away then head gasket or crack, if no bubbling then rev engine
several times if water level drops and rises with the revving then water
pump is probably ok.

Next try a new rad cap and check that radiator heats up evenly, if a number
of the tubes connecting the top and bottom tanks are blocked you should be
able to feel cold spots, do this on the side of the rad away from the fan or
you will have some extra mince in the engine compartment.

If a problem still exists then remove thermostat and try running without it,
the only adverse effect this will have is that the engine and heater will
take a long time to heat up.

Put thermostat in a saucepan of water and heat, if you have suitable
thermometer check that it opens at specified temperature, if no thermometer
it should open before water boils.

Hope this helps.

Dave

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From: "Clive Taylor" <clive@tcns.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 01:51:24 -0000
Subject: Re: paradox 

When I was at University, I had the same problem with my TR4 (which was only
5 years younger than me).  I got to a friend's house where we had planned to
adjust the tappet screws. We took off the rocker cover to find that one of
the tappet adjusters had unwound. The lock nut was poised above the pushrod
hole, waiting for the right moment to drop in. After replacing the offending
rocker lock nut, it ran on four cylinders again and really showed up his
Alpine Series IV (1750 vs 2148 cc).

Strangely I got stopped by the police that night for not showing any rear
lights (I honestly did have a new wiring harness for it). They escorted me
home so that no damage should come to such a "lovely historic vehicle" (they
didn't mention the large hole in the rear silencer).

Clive

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From: "Tom Murkin" <tom@riverside-repairs.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 03:30:55 -0000
Subject: Re: Defender station wagons

>How comfortable are the second row of seats? Can these be replaced with

>seats similar to the front seats? Is there room to move the second row
>of seats back an inch or two (I will be removing the rear bench seats to
Having travelled many miles on them, I would say they are fairly
comfortable, I find them more comfortable than a Ford transit minibus.  I'm
over 6ft and have not found a problem with the leg room as the seats are
that much higher - mind you, not ideal for sleeping in!

>How does a moderatly loaded D110 station wagon with 5 or 6 passengers
>and a pile of film gear perform in comparison to say a VW
>transporter/Caravelle or an Astra or Espace minibus? I am thinking of
>long haul motorway driving.

Comparing Ford Transit minibus and 300Tdi 110 Station Wagaon, the 110 is
easily able to keep up with the Ford despite being more heavily loaded -
just watch you don't take corners too fast ;-)  The thing I most dislike
about the 110 is the steering, it just seems much to light and gives very
little feedback.  The 110 is also noisier, and seemed slightly cramped in
the drivers seat - I keep wanting to move the seat back, and catching my arm
on the fancy door trim, but I suppose thats what happens when you have wind
down windows on a LR.  All in all I prefer driving the 110 despite the short
falls, and come to a hill and it leaves the Ford standing!

Tom
SIII 2.5D

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From: "Tom Murkin" <tom@riverside-repairs.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 03:35:50 -0000
Subject: Re: Instrument panel wiring

>Sorry to say/type, I am somehow not convinced your electrical woes are
over...

That is what I'm worried about.

>'cured' some probs, resulting in what looked like a mesh of overcooked
>spaghetti, including the sauce a la Bolognese! Got a picture of that... :)

Sounds exactly like mine at the moment!

>several people soon came with the brilliant idea to have the wiring
diagrams
>scanned and put on website. I downloaded from Richard Marsden's site:

>Do not know if the correct wiring diagram is there for you, (diesel),
>*perhaps someone else can help at this point?*

Thanks for the links - will check them out

>Once you have this to look at, you need:
>-good eyesight

Not too bad!

>-time (read: lots of patience)
Rather lacking at the moment - I wonder how long I can put it off?  Maybe
until summer? autumn? winter...

>-an understanding wife
Single so not a problem

>-a multimeter
Yes

>-disconnected batteries ;)
Try to keep them disconected all the time - with that mess of wiring you
never know what might happen

>-earplugs to prevent helpful neighbours to let you do silly things
> like looking for a large tree with a rope, or worse, sell the rover... ;)
Good idea!

>-the correct amount of white watery stuff that smells nice and tastes
better
I have a very friendly pub next door who kindly lets me use their car park
for working in - at least until they get it surfaced...

>-......, er, forgot, can the list fill this space?

>Do not run away screaming once you've opened up the instrument panel,
> like looking for a large tree with a rope, or worse, sell the rover... ;)
Thats whats putting me off at the moment!

>Good Luck,
>if you get stuck do not hesitate to let us/me know, off-list if need be.

Thanks - I'm sure I will!

Tom
SIII 2.5D

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