The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: Andrew Baker <Andrew_Baker@mitel.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 08:26:03 -0000
Subject: RE: Defender station wagons

> My company has a VW LT35D under this rule, but being 11 years old, I
> am
> considering replacing it with something more modern. 

Why? are  you too young to drive it :-)

Sorry, shouldn't make fun, my Danish is pretty bad.

Andrew B

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From: Robin.Kelland@bacon-woodrow.co.uk
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 08:43:38 +0000
Subject: Re : Water Presure

Thanks Dave. I will check this out this weekend. (when the other half is at
work. For som reason she only likes me working on her car!)

Robin

>From: "Dave Codrai" <dave@codrai.freeserve.co.uk>
>Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 23:49:30 -0000
>Subject: Re: Water Pressure
>Robin
>Radiator cap rating is 9 psi or 0.6 bar
>Thermostat should open between 75 - 80 degrees C

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Thermostat should open between 75 - 80 degrees C
>The rating on the rad cap is the amount of pressure that will be allowed
to
>build up in the cooling system as it heats up, heat water get expansion
>therefore pressure, for every 1 psi it raises the boiling point of the
water
>by 1 degree......
>......specified temperature, if no thermometer
>it should open before water boils.
>Hope this helps.
>Dave
>Thermostat should open between 75 - 80 degrees C

This communication is intended solely for the addressee and is
confidential.

If you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, copying,
distribution or any action taken or omitted to be taken in reliance on it,
is prohibited and may be unlawful.

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From: "Seymour, Gareth" <gareth.seymour@sihe.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 09:02:40 -0000
Subject: How many in a 109.....

What about a Range Rover.....

Last year on the way back from Tenby to Kilgetty the weekend of the AWDC
safari we had 14 in a Rangy....not too bad I hear you say...7 were 14
stone plus with most of them being over 6 foot, I'm 6' 5" and was in the
back squashed against the tailgate.....Still as someone said, if we got
stopped there were 13 witness to say there was only the guy driving !!!!
I think it was.......

1 in the drivers seat.
1 in the front passenger seat.
5 on the rear seat /footwell
7 in the back.

May have been 6 in the back with 2 in the front passenger seat !!

Good job heavy duty suspension had been fitted. OK the seating capacity
may have been exceeded but was it over loaded ??

ttfn

Gareth

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From: "Seymour, Gareth" <gareth.seymour@sihe.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 09:08:04 -0000
Subject: 14 in a range rover

With regard to my earlier email I forgot to add all the take aways we
bought after the pub. Bad enough trying not to spill the curry when you
can put it safe let alone when your surrounded by bodies. Suppose it was
like playing "twister" on the move.

bye again,

Gareth

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From: "David Vella" <landy@digigate.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 10:24:50 +0100
Subject: Installing a RevCounter on a TD

Hi

I would like to install a RevCounter on my 1988 TD 90.  Anyone had such
experience into doing so ? I checked with the local dealers but did not find
anyone into doing so - altough one will be checking to try to do it.

Is it that on Diesels they do it via the Alternator. Do you know where I can
buy some kits with wiring instructions on how I can install them on a LR
Turbo Diesel.

Regards and 10x

     David Vella
  GFI Fax & Voice
 [www.gfifax.com]
-=1988 White 90=-

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From: Andy Gardiner <101_nut@shedcity.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 10:29:11 +0000
Subject: Re: The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Ask a stupid question, but what is the resistance of the ballast wire in
a '76 rangy supposed to be?
-- 
Andy Gardiner

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From: Patrick Colbeck <pat.colbeck@esc.azlan.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 13:29:07 +0000
Subject: Sceech turns into dead gearbox

Hi

Well you may rember my mail yesterday re a screetch on my RR. Well today as
I was coming to work I lost all forward drive. No bangs or clanks just a
gradual loss of drive over about half a mile untill the engine was spinning
but the power wasn't getting to the wheels. It reminded me of when a hose
cam disconnected once and it lost all the ATF, however this time their is
plenty of ATF in there.

I have tried all gears in both high and low but no joy except reverse which
is fine !

This is an 84 RR with a 3.9EFi dropped in (by previous owner) and an
automatic gearbox. I think its a ZF four speed as it has three slectable
forward speeds as well as fully auto.

Am I looking at an exchange gearbox here or does it sound like there it is
something that can be fixed ?

Pat

PS anyone know a good source for second hand gearboxes ?

-- 

 Patrick Colbeck 	  email: pat.colbeck@esc.azlan.co.uk          
 Senior Analyst            tel:  you dont seriously expect me to 
 Azlan Ltd                       give that out on the internet do you ?

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From: "Iain Tennant" <i.r.tennant@dundee.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 14:00:13 GMT
Subject: Re: Defender station wagons

Adrian wrote:...

<Before leaping head first into a splinter new 300Tdi Defender SW, I
<have a few questions which others on the list might be able to 
<answer?

Obviously hooked,  no cure,  you may as well just  jump!

> How comfortable are the second row of seats? Can these be replaced with
> seats similar to the front seats? Is there room to move the second row

The standard second row seats are ok but there isn't a lot of 
legroom and no whiplash protection given the low seat backs.  A 
friend (also with a 110CSW) has Trakers (sp?) in the second row and 
this makes a *big*  difference to both legroom and comfort.  It's a 
modification I'm thinking about.   He also has 2 forward-facing 
folding Trakers in the back instead of the benches.  We have a  
9-seater with 4 individual folding seats in the back and this is 
fine for our particular needs. 

> How reliable is the 300 tdi motor? Is is easy to work on if I want do do
> my own routine repairs and maintenance?

Can't really comment except to say that we've not had any trouble so 
far.  Standard things look fairly easy to work on. The 3 year 
warranty means you're effectively tied in to the dealership for a 
while.   
Having said that,  I don't think the 300 is available now so you'd 
likely end up with a Td5 if you went for new.  Had a drive in one a 
couple of weeks ago.  About the same level of noise as our 300 but 
certainly quicker of the mark.

> Why hasn't LR discovered the beuty of the fully galvanised chassis yet?

IMO, Yes! It should be standard.   LR's response to this in a recent 
issue of LROi was that they couldn't  achieve the consistent 
tolerances required for the assembly line with galvanised frames.  
I'm not sure I'm convinced by this argument.

> What are the standard or recommended wheel rims / tyres for these
> creatures?

Standard fitting is 7.50R16 Avon Rangemasters on steel rims.  We have 
Michelin 7.50R16 XPCs (a no-cost option).   Have used Rangemasters 
as well but  I reckon the Michelin is better for on-road handling
and it's miles better in snow.  Still haven't got round to measuring 
the tread wear though.

> Is permanent 4WD better/different to Series 2/4 wheel drive? How?

Different.. yes,  better... IMO.. also yes.   A  differential between 
the two axles means it can run permanent 4wd on the road without 
breaking a half-shaft (or worse) every 30 miles.   The centre diff 
can be locked which then makes the same configuration as a Series 
with 4wd engaged.

> Do defenders corrode just as much as their predecessors? (I have already
> consiodered buying a splinter new Defender, and before driving it on the
> road, stripping it completly and galvanising everything in sight, but

Can only relate our experience:...

After much deliberation we bought a "splinter new" 300Tdi in '96 and 
it was evident from the outset that LR had not yet addressed either 
their QC or corrosion problems properly.  The chasis paint was very 
thin and patchy in places and the chasis was already rusty on 
delivery.  The problems we had with this LR were compounded by a 
"less than perfect" main dealer (how's that for diplomacy).  The car 
leaked badly (and I *mean* badly!) from day one and there were so 
many problems the dealer was eventually forced to replace the car.   
I'm afraid I  don't subscribe to the idea that we should accept leaks 
and poor finishing as essential features or characteristics of a 
new LR.  You pay a lot of money,  the car should be "right".
Still have the list of warranty repairs if anyone wants to be bored. 

The new one is *much much" better.   It did however need a new 
power-steering pump at 10K miles. We also had the replacement car 
fully Waxoyled before delivery.   I would certainly stongly recommend 
copious quantities of  Waxoyl on any car you intend to keep for a 
few years..

> How does a moderatly loaded D110 station wagon with 5 or 6 passengers
> and a pile of film gear perform in comparison to say a VW
> transporter/Caravelle or an Astra or Espace minibus? I am thinking of
> long haul motorway driving.

Can't comment on these specific comparisons but we do ~20K 
miles/year including 2 long hauls pretty well loaded up (it's 1100 
miles to the French Alps from up here).   No doubt a Rangie or Disco 
is quieter and plusher but absolutely no problem in the 110.

Regards,

Iain

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From: "Gaz" <Ur_Vas_Bethud@large93.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 14:48:58 -0000
Subject: Smoking 2.5TD 110 (SORRY!!!)
	charset="x-user-defined"

Hi Ya'll
Here it is......
Embarrassing clouds of white smoke on start-up (from cold).
Gone within a few minutes warm up!
No noticable smoke during normal running
Just changed injectors (re-con) and fuel filter.....air filter changed =
18 months ago.
Seems a bit sluggish, but will do 75 mph on motorway.
Engine done 188,000 miles.
Engine gets to just before "hot zone" within 3 miles.Done so since I had =
it 2 years ago.
Can't think of anything else.....
Query: valve guides or piston rings (or new motor?)
Cheers
Gaz

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From: "Baker, Stuart J" <bakersj@bp.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 13:51:12 -0000
Subject: Re: Instrument panel wiring

Tom
I'm close to the end of a 3 year rebuild, and have to say that the back of
the instrument panel was one of the things that scared me most (being a
relative novice at this).  However once you "get into it" it's not too bad.
The best advise I can give you is to get hold of the correct wiring diagram.
I found it also helped, to spend some time freeing up the loom/ wires in the
engine compartment, so that you can pull the panel away sufficiently to work
on it.
 Good luck

Stuart
SII Big and Yella

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[spamkill: [Ii][Nn][fF][Oo]@ input: %s]	 Return-Path: <info@autoconv.com>
From: "Dave Ashcroft" <info@autoconv.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 14:56:05 -0000
Subject: Re: Sceech turns into dead gearbox

Hi,

The 'A Clutch' has failed, this is the clutch at the front of the autobox
which is engaged during all forward motion and thus fails first.

If you are a reasonable mechanic you can fix this for a weekends labor and
approx. $ 200 inc. all parts and carriage.

Let me know off list if you want to fix it yourself,

Dave (Automatic Conversions UK) 

----------
> From: Patrick Colbeck <pat.colbeck@esc.azlan.co.uk>
> To: uk-lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Sceech turns into dead gearbox
> Date: 25 February 1999 13:29
> Hi
> Well you may rember my mail yesterday re a screetch on my RR. Well today

as
> I was coming to work I lost all forward drive. No bangs or clanks just a
> gradual loss of drive over about half a mile untill the engine was
spinning
> but the power wasn't getting to the wheels. It reminded me of when a hose
> cam disconnected once and it lost all the ATF, however this time their is
> plenty of ATF in there.
> I have tried all gears in both high and low but no joy except reverse
> Hi
which
> is fine !
> This is an 84 RR with a 3.9EFi dropped in (by previous owner) and an
> automatic gearbox. I think its a ZF four speed as it has three slectable
> forward speeds as well as fully auto.
> Am I looking at an exchange gearbox here or does it sound like there it
> Well you may rember my mail yesterday re a screetch on my RR. Well today

is

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From: "Dave White" <davew@landie.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 14:57:16 +0000
Subject: Re: Sceech turns into dead gearbox

> I have tried all gears in both high and low but no joy except reverse which
> is fine !

> Am I looking at an exchange gearbox here or does it sound like there it is
> something that can be fixed ?

The good news is - it is repairable, assuming you have a reasonable toolkit
and can remove the gearbox etc...

It sounds like the main clutch, Clutch 'A', has fried. This is quite common
in the ZF. A kit of parts for repair can be obtained from Auto Conversions
or other auto specialists. I think the kit costs about 80 quid (can't
remember exactly).

Dave Barker took some photos recently of a ZF undergoing this kind of repair
(our race motor, <http://www.landie.demon.co.uk/swracing/>)... watch out for
it in LROI if you can wait for a little while.

regards
Dave White
Dave White <davew@landie.demon.co.uk>
Yorkshire Rover Owners Club
<http://www.landie.demon.co.uk/>

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From: Patrick Colbeck <pat.colbeck@esc.azlan.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 16:03:35 +0000
Subject: Re: Sceech turns into dead gearbox

Thanks for the info I thought I was looking at a £1000+ bill as I am going
to have to get a mechanic to do it as I need the RR as transport.

Much relieved 

Pat

On Thu Feb 25, 1999 at 02:57:16PM +0000, Dave White wrote:

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From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 17:14:40 +0100
Subject: Re: Re Tyres for a Leica?

At 18:07 24-02-99 -0000, you wrote:

>	You can restore a Landie for the price of a camera.. wow.. 
>	that must be one expensive camera

John,

Don't get me wrong. I am not restoring the Landrover. It doesn't need it.
I restore original looks by buying a set of bigger tyres.
The camera was a 1957 M3 with two lenses and some small stuff. Really nice
camera to use by the way. The feel and sound of an M-Leica are unique. I got
enough money for the tyres because it was in almost perfect shape. But it is
not very rare. I can always buy another one when I have some money to spare
(not likely now that I have the Rover).

Regards,

Jan.

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From: "T.D.I.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 16:30:53 -0000
Subject: Re: Smoking 2.5TD 110 (SORRY!!!)

Try getting the injector pump timing checked. At such a high mileage check
the timing belt as well to make sure it hasn't stretched.
Tom Stevenson
University Marine Biological Station, Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel: 01475 530581  Fax: 01475 530601  Email: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
Web page: http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine/

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From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 16:46:27 -0000
Subject: Re: Defender station wagons

Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept

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From: Geoff Wilkin <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 16:48:03 -0000
Subject: Re: Sceech turns into dead gearbox

Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept

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From: Patrick Colbeck <pat.colbeck@esc.azlan.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 17:17:45 +0000
Subject: Re: Sceech turns into dead gearbox

> Take it to Ian Ashcroft, of Automatic Conversions somewhere near Luton /
> Dunstable sort of area...
> Best Regards
> Geoff Wilkin

That would be a bit of an expensive tow since I live in North Yorkshire :)

Pat

-- 

 Patrick Colbeck 	  email: pat.colbeck@esc.azlan.co.uk          
 Senior Analyst            tel:  you dont seriously expect me to 
 Azlan Ltd                       give that out on the internet do you ?

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 19:02:48 +0100
Subject: Re: Defender station wagons

Cheers Andrew - but I am 43 yrs old and as English as a Series III - the
VW LT35 however is 11 yrs old and as German as BMW

:-)

Andrew Baker wrote:
> > From:         Adrian Redmond[SMTP:channel6@post2.tele.dk]
> > My company has a VW LT35D under this rule, but being 11 years old, I
> > am
> > considering replacing it with something more modern.
> Why? are  you too young to drive it :-)
> Sorry, shouldn't make fun, my Danish is pretty bad.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Sorry, shouldn't make fun, my Danish is pretty bad.
> Andrew B
          http://www.channel6.dk/native

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 19:22:33 +0100
Subject: Defender 110 CSW

My dealer/mechanic delievred a demo County Station Wagon today for us to
play with and measure - nice vehicle.

The 300TDi is the engine - I see that the importer has several of these
- probably because they want to get shot of them before the TD5 comes.
Seems like a nice engine to work on.

I don't like the metallic paint - difficult to respray myself - so IF I
buy one, it will be standard dark green,

It is a pity that the old sturdy bits of a Series are missing -
galvanised cappings, handles on the back, hand throttle. They should be
standard.

I am disappointed with the lack of legroom on the second row of seats -
I don't see that raising the seats and pushing them further back up the
wheel arch slope will gain enough wiothout severly limiting headroom for
the vertically advantaged. The real solution would be to pull the tub
and rebuild thge slope a few inches further back. But who wants to split
a splinter new vehicle (I already have a 109 split to 2000 parts)

I removed the ront seat bottoms to check underneath. Funny little
battery - why is it inside the car instead of under the bonnet (manual
says that battery produces explosive gasses under normal conditions -
seems silly to put in in an enclosed space). I am not sure that this
battery is big enough for cold weather starts when the engine is 5 years
old - any experience on this one. It doesn't seem easy to fity a much
larger battery. (I use Varta's 110Ah as standard).

Under the middle front seat there is a box of Lucas/Rover electrics and
a funny little switch with a rubber nipple on it - what does this do? Is
this some form of anti-theft device?

I am ambiguous about the value of a chassis which is not galvanised and
is covered win a thin coat of crud to start with - my instint from 16
years of Series rovering says heavy coat of paint or galvanise -
preferabnly both. I guiess the correct strategy is to buy the wagon,
then after say 5 years, when it begins to rust but before its more than
surface rust to strip the car and galvanise the chassis. Not this week
anyway!

Well - I'm playing with it, crawlæing underneath (Do catalysators
actually work on diesels - I didn't know that) finding faults and
getting ideas for a new adventure. Maybe I'm hooked, but the fam,ily and
staff were impressed with the driving, the comfort 8except for 2nd row
seats) the acceleration and the handling. This could be our new film
wagon.

Adrian Redmond

          http://www.channel6.dk/native

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From: "Dave White" <davew@landie.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 18:52:35 +0000
Subject: Re: Sceech turns into dead gearbox

>> Take it to Ian Ashcroft, of Automatic Conversions somewhere near Luton /
>> Dunstable sort of area...
>   [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
>> Best Regards
>> Geoff Wilkin
> That would be a bit of an expensive tow since I live in North Yorkshire :)

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> That would be a bit of an expensive tow since I live in North Yorkshire :)
> Pat
hi ! message from Davew - he will get back to you later on this, he's had to
rush out. Apparently there is a auto specialist near Leeds, so might not be
such a problem.

Pam (his ever patient wife)

--
Dave White <davew@landie.demon.co.uk>
'72 SIII  V8 auto, Range Rover Chassis
'89 Range Rover
'80 Range Rover (For Sale...)
'98 Freelander
Yorkshire Rover Owners Club
<http://www.landie.demon.co.uk/>

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From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 16:12:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Installing a RevCounter on a TD

It is very easy to do. VDO make a 2 inch diam one that matches the other
instruments well enough, and could fit into an existing instrument hole but
comes with its own bracket as well. It works off the alternator. Should be
available from any good motor accessory place. Mine didn't come with a
diagram but that was supplied by the Slavins and I would be happy to share
it if necessary. 
Good luck
Allan

At 10:24 25/02/99 +0100, you wrote:

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From: "Dave Codrai" <dave@codrai.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 23:15:49 -0000
Subject: Ballast rating

Andy

>Ask a stupid question, but what is the resistance of the ballast wire in
>a '76 rangy supposed to be?

Nothing in Range Rover manual or parts book but from a non LR data book
resistance is 1.3 - 1.5 ohms

Dave

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 00:45:20 +0100
Subject: Rusty ramblings

Gosh - sometimes these bl€€dy Land Rovers make me angry!

Forget the heritage crap about it being a marque that was designed on a
shoestring in a steel rationed empire dissolving postwar Britain, and
forget the modern crap line about Rover having invested millions in
better productions methods to bring the heritage up to date - let's talk
about cars instead.

I have spent the evening wirebrusing the paint and crud of 23 years from
the heavy cast parts of my 109 front axle - swivel house, stub axle,
axle house, brake backplate and so on. On the other side of my workshop
stands a brand new D110 CSW the like of which I am thinking of buying,
which I have loaned to demo for a day or two. There's the contrast.

If the heritage is so damn good, why didn't they discover years ago,
that if a car is so heavily overdimensioned in mechanical terms that it
will last 30 years (which my front axle has) then why not finish the job
so that it also last 30 years looking good. Steel catings could be
galvanised or metalised, bodywork could be put together so that it wont
corrode (for example, aluminium corrodes a lot less when it is mating
with galvanised/metalised steel than with bare steel).

OK I hear the cryptics say - no car manufacturer is interested in their
products lasting forever - that may be true, but it is short sighted and
denies the basic facts of Land Rover ownership for the past 50 years.

Solihuill's bread an butter customers are not the enthusiats like us who
8most of us) buy a second hand vehicle and bash the hell out of it),
their pasture has always been the military, and large state owned
institutions like police, civil defence, utility companies, radiophonic
corporations, railways, forestry commissions and the like - organisation
who run their Rovers until the mechanical parts - especially the drive
train, brakes and steering are worn out or out of date, and then sell
the lot and buy new ones. Built in obsolesence doesnt really figure -
for example wouldn't the military now be replacing their old SIII's and
SIIA's due to mechanical wear even if the chassis was galvanised instead
of being a veritable rust garden?

Because Land Rovers last 20+ years for institutional users - over three
times the age of other vehicles, it would make good sense for the
manufacturer to go the whole hog, and build a vehicle which lasted -
period.

Why be satisfied with a wagon which last forever, if simple parts shake,
rattle and roll off after a year or two.

The Defender, as the bearer of this heritage towards the new millenium
(after which it may or may not survive) is a good example of this
lacsadaisical attitude at Lode Lane. Metallic paint? What's the point
when the fixtures are held om with anodised screws which will rust in
six months. Upholstery? Whats the point when the carpet flaps and will
work loose when the first wellysole full of clay gets between it and the
rice paper floor panels?

The big question is - how did it get this bad? Why is it that a truck
which can, and often does last two generations under hard, dirty and
thankless working conditions, was allowed to be defaced by a crowd of
design yuppies whose heritage-horizon never reached beyond next months
sales figures.

Having rebuilt (and often redesigned) the construction of four Series
Land Rovers, I am tempted - sorely tempted, to attempt the same with a
Defender straight of the factory line - buy it, and treat it as a 30
year old frame up rebuild - strip it lovingly, put all the bolts and
plastic bits in plastic bags, and start all over again - galvanise the
chassis, galvanise or matalise all steel parts like axles, hubs and
springs, rust proff the mount brackets which seem to hold the many parts
of the motor together, redesign all the tub and cab fixings so that
dismantling doesn't need six pairs of hands holding spanners which don't
fit the dirty, rusted, crudded up anodised nuts anyway, and redesign the
trim.

OK you ask - who's this know all who thinks he can do it better. Me! I
answer - like many of us on the list, I have - with previous rebuilds -
proven that i am willing to use ten times the amount of time, care and
energy building my car than was invested in any original product from
the factory.

Maybe - to satisfy us few simple hearts who love these trucks - LR
should introduce two new option packages - A. the build it yourself
package - entire car arrives in bits, numbered and indexed in a big
packing case, you build it yourself. Tools, drawings and tips are
provided. (It can't be that difficult to build a new vehicle with clean
working parts if you can build a 26 year old one where every part has to
be stripped and cleaned, rethreaded and painted and reassembled. B. The
Anti-yuppie package - all flossy extras like carpets and metalic paint
are removed, instead you get heavier floor deck plates, rubber cladding
on doors which will last a year or two longer, galvanised steelwork,
stainless steel nuts, biolts, brackets and fittings, and no fancy
Defender stripe on the side. Available colours - green, green, or green.

Both of these above options should be chaeper than the standard station
wagon, because most of the expensive trimmings are left out, and the
labour is provided by the customer.

I have nothing against dentists and accountants driving to the gymkhana
in their yuppie metallic rovers, unless pursuing these customers results
in the total destruction of a vehicle, the heritage of which is built on
more than vinyl and micatallic paint. Given that every car manufacturer
worth their salt is able to field a four wheel drive wannabe lookalike
with airbags and stereo, I fail to see the point of chasing the same
customers if one at the same time ignores and alianates those users on
whom the marque has been based for five decades, and for whom there is
hardly an alternative product that comes within a buckshot of the ideal
working landie.

So before Lode lane throws the baby out with the bathwater, get real,
get back to basics, and understand what the heritage in fact represents.
Then sieze the day...

<Rant mode off> I guess I'll buy the Defender, but I'm just as excited
about the new chassis for my 1976 109 which arrives next week!

Happy Rovering,

Adrian Redmond

          http://www.channel6.dk/native

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From: "Micky" <micky@big101.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 00:04:40 -0000
Subject: Re: Defender station wagons

>Tsk Tsk... "Had"  it waxoyled.... if you want it done properly ... do it
>yourself
>Most places just dust it over and squirt a bit up the chassis... To do any
>real good it needs drenching in the stuff!
>inside and out. I dont trust anyone to do it other than myself.

Not sure about this... Waxoyl burns - very well. Underseal (the thick gunky
stuff the Army uses) also burns, but not so well. In the future, if I have
to do any welding on my chassis, I'd rather have to put out a little fire
than a big fire.

Having said that, Waxoyl looks _much_ easier to apply inside a chassis rail
than the gunkier underseal i.e. you can spray it much more easily.

This thread has prompted some thought on how to protect the inside of my
lovely recently primed and blasted chassis. Bugger... time to be really
indecisive again.

Theory time (mind wandering due to a really nice bottle of Chilean red...)
Is it right that Waxoyl and wotnot simply seals the surface of the metal
preventing air and water and salt and stuff getting to the steel? If so,
doesn't it just seal any crap already there, causing rust from under the
protective layer?

Took a week off work to get some work done in the garage on newly returned
chassis (putting 101 back together again - wonderful!) Unfortunately, got
admitted to hospital with an abcess on my jaw (outside, not in mouth),
general anaesthetic, much pain and itching, so got a load of sick leave but
can't do a thing which will get me dirty. Bummer...

Still, at least I'm not on anti-biotics... Hic!

Cheers

Micky
101 in bits
Cheers

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From: "Micky" <micky@big101.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 00:19:34 -0000
Subject: It's amazing what you see in Morrisons car park
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Seen a couple of unusual vehicles in Morrisons car park, in Lincoln, =
recently.

First was a 6 wheel Rangie fire tender. Nice shade of green. Looked in =
really good nick. I've got the registration number but it's in the =
pickup on the back of a petrol receipt and I'm not inclined to go =
outside and get it.

The second had me wondering. First saw it with a load of people loading =
shopping and getting into what appeared to be a II/III/90 at a distance. =
Then I kinda measured it up against the surrounding cars. Nah, can't =
be... it's far too small. Saw it again on Tuesday, and got a closer =
look. The vehicle looks like a SWB / 90 from the rear, but smaller, and =
seems to be based on a Scamp or other Mini-based kit car. Didn't get the =
number (very attractive young lady distracted me - I'm only human) but =
I've not seen one before.

Thought it was unusual, that's all. Nothing much exciting happens in =
Lincoln...

Cheers

Micky
101 in bits

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From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 21:35:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Defender 110 CSW

At 19:22 25/02/99 +0100, you wrote:

>I removed the ront seat bottoms to check underneath. Funny little
>battery - why is it inside the car instead of under the bonnet (manual
>says that battery produces explosive gasses under normal conditions -
>seems silly to put in in an enclosed space). I am not sure that this
>battery is big enough for cold weather starts when the engine is 5 years
>old - any experience on this one. It doesn't seem easy to fity a much
>larger battery. (I use Varta's 110Ah as standard).

Adrian - should be plenty of space for enough battery power. After the ants
killed my factory unit I put in a larger 100 Ah and also have a small tool
box in there. The CT 110 I was learning on in the UK last year had a
formidable double setup in the same space. 
Also, the space is ventillated to the outside. (As if the cab itself wasn't
:-) 

The perfunctory  spraying of the chassis is a real disappointment when you
first see it, and needs to be supplemented asap. Because I live 60 feet
from the sea with onshore Tradewinds, the 90 started rusting in numerous
places within a four months - first was the lower front of the door frame.
However, after 4 years, the cappings may be the only non-Al component that
are still totally clean, even in spots where the ropes of the canvas top
(in its initial PU configuration) wore the paint away.

Bottom line - take rust prevention seriously because LR hasn't done it for
you. Waxoyl or Dinitrol and a bit of work will  make a big difference.

Plus, of course, as someone else mentioned, the 300 is a real ear-to-ear to
use on hills. 
Allan   

 

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