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From: "Joe" <globis@netnet.com.sg>
Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 22:18:30 -0500
Subject: CNN Told the World about us!

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From: gwinston@cisco.com (Graham Winstone)
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 10:36:40 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Re: Freelander (LANDROVER SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE)

Tom Murkin wrote:
  A friend of mine had a lucky escape a few years back when the car he was
  driving ended up in a ditch with the water half way up the windows.  The
  sides of the ditch prevented him from opening the door enough to get out,
  and the only other way was to squeeze through the window.  Had he had
  electric windows he would not have stood a chance of getting out, and could
  have been trapped for several days before the car was spotted.  He will now
  not even consider a car with electric windows, and can't understand what is
  so difficult about turning a handle.

I've seen special glass breaking hammers in some motoring shops just because
of this problem.  A very worthwhile investment for such occasions.

- Graham

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From: "John McMaster" <john@chiaroscuro.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 10:51:05 -0000
Subject: RE: Freelander (LANDROVER SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE)

What about Series or early 110s with sliding windows, no way I could get out
through my 110 window ;-)

john

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From: "Micky" <micky@big101.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 11:42:02 -0000
Subject: Re: It's amazing what you see in Morrisons car park

>Sounds like a Mini Moke to me.........   I'm far too young to remeber them
>of course !

My father used to have a Moke - wonderful little vehicles! One of the few 4
wheel drive minis. Austin or whoever made the Twinny Moke, engine at the
front and the rear, for the Army.Trouble was the front and rear were not
physically linked so one engine tended to race off with a wheel spinning
while the other stalled and died. The Moke also suffered from a lack of
ground clearance - para boots have more.

Once saw a magazine article on a guy who built a Twinny Mini Pickup using 2
Marina 1300 engines. Apparently he got it to 140mph before he ran out of
space!

LR content - erm... none really... Soz...

Cheers

Micky
101 in bits

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From: "Micky" <micky@big101.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 11:44:53 -0000
Subject: Re: Freelander (LANDROVER SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE)

>I've seen special glass breaking hammers in some motoring shops just

because
>of this problem.  A very worthwhile investment for such occasions.

My grandfather kept a small lump hammer in his BMW for just such an event...

Cheers

Micky
101 in bits

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From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl>
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 13:21:06 +0100
Subject: hi-list goes up, not down

Dear all,

My newly aquired Hi-Lift jack is suffering from Viagra-syndrome.
Going up is no problem, but lowering the load is possible only when I push
the lower half of the sliding part down bij hand. If I don't do this the
pegs don't engage in their holes and the handle blocks.
I have tried to cure this by filing the edges of the holes in the bar, and
smoothing the sides of the bar with sanding paper, but still no go.
My parts dealer ordered the jack for me in the UK, but doesn't know much
about it.

This is not a very safe way to operate the jack.
Sounds familiar? Will it improve over time? If I have to help it going down
when used vertically, how can I ever use the jack horizontally?

TIA,

Cheers,
Jan.

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From: The Bickertons <Bickerton@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 12:54:59 -0500
Subject: 2.25 diesel - non starting woes

Can somebody help me please? Today I got so desperate I went to see the
experts, and they want me to spend another large wad of cash.

When it runs, it runs fine. Brilliant for a 2.25D (like it'll get 70 on the
clock down a hill, and hold it on the flat). However, a few mornings ago it
refused to start until I'd bled it, not only on the filter but also the two
screws on the injector pump. It was just cranking over, no smoke at the
exhaust. I bled it, all was dandy and it started well about 8 times in two
weeks.

Last night I jumped in again, and after the prescribed preheat it started,
ran very fast (3000rpm?) and then stalled. Cranking it produced less and
less white smoke for ~10 secs, then no smoke. I bled it, and then it ran
fine. Now it refuses to start without being bled which is OK, but I don't
like smelling of diesel all the time.

This morning I bled it, drove it 10 miles (plenty of performance.... for a
diesel) to the local parts / maintenance place, and parked up. Describing
the symptoms to their mechanic, he said either change the fuel pipes, or
fit a new injector pump. I did the latter about 2k miles ago, so I don't
want another, and I can't see that the low-pressure fuel pipes are that
critical (looking at them they just appear to be a push-fit onto the lift
pump, now sealed by years of grime).

Questions - a) What does the flat (ie not hex) screwy bit do on the bottom
of the (b/head) fuel filter do? It drips slightly if I hand-prime the lift
pump since the first morning - I don't think it leaked before.
b) With each successive pump the hand-prime lever feels like it does less
and less. Difficult to describe, but is this normal?
c) Am I priming it properly? Open the top banjo-screw on the filter (with a
pipe running from it), pump until clear fuel pours everywhere (like the
exhaust manifold - surely a moderately Bad Thing?), close screw during a
pump, then repeat on the upper then lower screws on the injector pump.

Still, at least I've got an FM radio now! I can look really cool, round
town on a Friday night, pumpin' da bass as I'm parked up cursing the lack
of smoke from the exhaust. Yeah, smoooooth. (If I fit a winch, maybe I'd
pull?)

Does anyone have any possible causes, or solutions (other than 'Buy diesel
that doesn't smell so bad!').

Thanx
John B

PS Could you CC copies of replies to me <bickerton@compuserve.com>, because
I'm on the digest and I'd rather not have a 48hr wait - diesel really is
that smelly on a suit! (Yes, I drive a 2.25D S3 in a suit, and good fun it
is too - fazes people who generally double-take :-)

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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@offroading.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 18:21:57 -0000
Subject: Range Rover 4.6 HSE (Series III content too!)

Well,

As I said in an earlier post, I saw the new 4.6 HSE and wanted one, budgets
have deemed a 1996 model with 27000 miles on the clock. It is mint. So...it
has to be done. I am a gadget man at heart sorry, I love the Series III to
bits, and still love driving her, but the RR has the edge when you want to
do a 400 mile haul and arrive the same day.....so it is goodbye to the ever
capable but sadly supported Explorer....I will never ever ever ever ever
touch a Ford again. I don;t have any problem with their vehicles....it is
the monkeys that service them. I hate being f*cked over by dealers....long
story, but lets just say..if I had the money..one dealer here would be no
more....kaboooooom!

SIII content :-

I needed a new rear hub gasket at the same LR dealership and as it only cost
17p...they gave me it! Now that's service I like...I fitted it, and guess
what? Now I can't spray passing sports cars with 90wt from my rear
wheels....boo hiss....of course it now means I don;t have to keep topping
the darned stuff up!

Neil

1978 SIII 109" - The Rancor
soon to be +

1996 Range Rover 4.6 HSE - code named - 'Silver Machine' (after all I am a
Hawkwind fan............)

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From: "Andrew Oakford" <Andrew.Oakford@btinternet.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 20:51:04 -0000
Subject: Re: It's amazing what you see in Morrisons car park

mmmm

always thought the women in Lincoln VERY distracting :-)

Andrew

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From: The Bickertons <Bickerton@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 15:51:51 -0500
Subject: 2.25 diesel - non starting woes

Can somebody help me please? Today I got so desperate I went to see the
experts, and they want me to spend another large wad of cash.

When it runs, it runs fine. Brilliant for a 2.25D (like it'll get 70 on the
clock down a hill, and hold it on the flat). However, a few mornings ago it
refused to start until I'd bled it, not only on the filter but also the two
screws on the injector pump. It was just cranking over, no smoke at the
exhaust. I bled it, all was dandy and it started well about 8 times in two
weeks.

Last night I jumped in again, and after the prescribed preheat it started,
ran very fast (3000rpm?) and then stalled. Cranking it produced less and
less white smoke for ~10 secs, then no smoke. I bled it, and then it ran
fine. Now it refuses to start without being bled which is OK, but I don't
like smelling of diesel all the time.

This morning I bled it, drove it 10 miles (plenty of performance.... for a
diesel) to the local parts / maintenance place, and parked up. Describing
the symptoms to their mechanic, he said either change the fuel pipes, or
fit a new injector pump. I did the latter about 2k miles ago, so I don't
want another, and I can't see that the low-pressure fuel pipes are that
critical (looking at them they just appear to be a push-fit onto the lift
pump, now sealed by years of grime).

Questions - a) What does the flat (ie not hex) screwy bit do on the bottom
of the (b/head) fuel filter do? It drips slightly if I hand-prime the lift
pump since the first morning - I don't think it leaked before.
b) With each successive pump the hand-prime lever feels like it does less
and less. Difficult to describe, but is this normal?
c) Am I priming it properly? Open the top banjo-screw on the filter (with a
pipe running from it), pump until clear fuel pours everywhere (like the
exhaust manifold - surely a moderately Bad Thing?), close screw during a
pump, then repeat on the upper then lower screws on the injector pump.

Still, at least I've got an FM radio now! I can look really cool, round
town on a Friday night, pumpin' da bass as I'm parked up cursing the lack
of smoke from the exhaust. Yeah, smoooooth. (If I fit a winch, maybe I'd
pull?)

Does anyone have any possible causes, or solutions (other than 'Buy diesel
that doesn't smell so bad!').

Thanx
John B

PS Could you CC copies of replies to me <bickerton@compuserve.com>, because
I'm on the digest and I'd rather not have a 48hr wait

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From: AVAC11@aol.com
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 16:07:02 EST
Subject: Re: Instrument panel wiring

You can get wiring from a scrap car, easiest way to get colour coded stuff.
Use fully insulated connectors to avoid getting shorts.

Gernot

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From: AVAC11@aol.com
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 16:23:59 EST
Subject: Re: Freelander (LANDROVER SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE)

In a message dated 27/02/99 10:51:33 GMT Normalzeit, john@chiaroscuro.co.uk
writes:

>  What about Series or early 110s with sliding windows, no way I could get

out
>  through my 110 window ;-)
>  john

really don't see the problem, take the boot to the passenger side window.
Problem is that most people start to panick which sort of keeps them from
thinking.

Gernot

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From: AVAC11@aol.com
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 16:25:13 EST
Subject: Re: Instrument panel wiring

You can get wiring from a scrap car, easiest way to get colour coded stuff.
Use fully insulated connectors to avoid getting shorts.

Gernot

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From: Marijn van der Himst <marijn@multiweb.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 23:31:28 +0100
Subject: Re: Instrument panel wiring

[[ anyone know where I can get the correct colour wires

 Any LR SIII will do just fine... ;)
 But it would be nice if present owner of said LR agrees.

[[ unless I decide to use one colour for everything ;-)

 As a matter of fact I did, where no original was available to me,
 used aircraft-wiring (teflon or silicon coated) and made permanent
 markings at each end, the markings corresponding with those on the diagram.
 All these are white, easy to spot and hard to burn.
 (Thinking...) actually it was *anti* aircraft stuff I was working on,
 but all that is very top secret and you should not tell anyone!

[spamkill: [Mm]erchant input: %s]	  Try a merchant who buyes LR's 
wholesale from MoD or whatever, and get a

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 01:01:37 +0100
Subject: Re: 2.25 diesel - non starting woes

My guess is that you have air in the system somewhere. The places to
suspect are -

Fuel feed hoses (unlikely, but check)
Water/air/leak in sedimentation unit.
Banjo nuts on pipe from fuel pump to distributor pump
Ditto - between fuel filter and distributor pump
Gasket between low and high pressure chambers on dist.pump (square box
on side of dist.pump)
Pipe connections to fuel filter

The bottoms of all my fuel filters have a hex nut which holts the filter
bottom up against the filter and the filt top. In case you haven't ever
seen the fuel filter dismantled, it is basically in three parts - the
top - which is fixed to the bulkhead and has the pipes going into it,
the middle - which is the fuel filter itself, and the bottom, which is a
cup with a pipe which goes all the way up the middle of the filter into
the top part. The hex screw goes all the way into the pipe. There may or
may not be a drain plug (nylon plastic thing with a thumbbolt) on the
bottom of the filter unit - just like the sedimentation unti under the
car.

The pipe which goes from the end of the return flow from the banjo nut
on injector/cylinder #4 can also be a weak link.

If everything seems to be in place, suspect banjo nuts and the copper
washers before anything else - or the distributor pump gasket (this is
easy to change yourself).

The copper washers on banjo bolts (like copper washers on drain plugs
etc.) should only be used once - if you dismantle - then replace them.
(I kniow - they can be used 100 times, but one bit of grit and they can
leak forever. Diesel is fairly viscoiuys, so it may not leak out -
whilst air is thinner - so it may leak in.

Good luck!

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
      Visit the "Native Experience" website at 
          http://www.channel6.dk/native
Contact the "Native Experience" film unit in Alaska
          telephone   +1 (907) 230 0359
          e-mail      channel6@alaska.net
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

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From: "Tom Murkin" <tom@riverside-repairs.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 03:25:04 -0000
Subject: Re: 2.25 diesel - non starting woes

>fine. Now it refuses to start without being bled which is OK, but I don't
>like smelling of diesel all the time.

I would start by checking all the fuel pipe connections both at the filter,
fuel pump, and injector pump.  Also check all fuel pipes from the fuel pump
on for leaks or other damage.  I think you will find that the fuel pipes are
a very tight fit push fit, and you would struggle to get them off.  That is
how they come from Land Rover.  Also check for signs of leakage at the fuel
filter, and if it has been on for some time it might be worth replacing, as
new filters come complete with all O-rings and rubber sealing rings.  As for
the copper washers, these should also be replaced when they've been used,
but can be annealed by heating until they start to glow, then quenching in
water, after which they can be reused providing they are in good condition.

>fit a new injector pump. I did the latter about 2k miles ago, so I don't

Was the pump fitted new or second hand?  It is possible that it may be
faulty again, and if you need one I have a spare from my old engine that I
know works perfectly.

>Questions - a) What does the flat (ie not hex) screwy bit do on the bottom
>of the (b/head) fuel filter do? It drips slightly if I hand-prime the lift
>pump since the first morning - I don't think it leaked before.

The only screw fitting on the bottom of my fuel filter is a plastic drain
plug.  Is this what you mean?  If so it is for draining water out and should
be sealed using an O-ring.  If this leaks badly it may cause the problems
you discribe, but I would have thought that it would have to leak quite
badly.

>b) With each successive pump the hand-prime lever feels like it does less
>and less. Difficult to describe, but is this normal?

Mine is exactly the same, both on my old 2.25 and my 2.5 engines.

>c) Am I priming it properly? Open the top banjo-screw on the filter (with a
>pipe running from it), pump until clear fuel pours everywhere (like the
>exhaust manifold - surely a moderately Bad Thing?), close screw during a
>pump, then repeat on the upper then lower screws on the injector pump.

Sounds about right.  I open all bleed screws then close them one at a time,
but don't think that it makes any differance.

Tom
SIII 2.5D

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From: "Tom Murkin" <tom@riverside-repairs.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 03:31:22 -0000
Subject: Re: Instrument panel wiring

Marijn wrote:
>[[ unless I decide to use one colour for everything ;-)
> As a matter of fact I did, where no original was available to me,
> used aircraft-wiring (teflon or silicon coated) and made permanent
> markings at each end, the markings corresponding with those on the

diagram.
> All these are white, easy to spot and hard to burn.

Marijn, 
what did you use to mark the ends?  I have lots of wire that I use
for my work on boats, but it is not in Lucas colours.  Your idea of just
marking the ends sounds like a good one providing it is permanent marking.

Cheers

Tom
SIII 2.5D

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