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The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
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From: Steve Reddock <Steve@Reddock.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 01:27:21 +0000
Subject: Re: Freelander (LANDROVER SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE)
------------
A friend of mine had a lucky escape a few years back when the car he was
driving ended up in a ditch with the water half way up the windows. The
sides of the ditch prevented him from opening the door enough to get out,
and the only other way was to squeeze through the window. Had he had
electric windows he would not have stood a chance of getting out, and could
have been trapped for several days before the car was spotted. He will now
not even consider a car with electric windows, and can't understand what is
so difficult about turning a handle.
-----------
A big a problem as this would be it's quite rare.
People are far more likely to cause accidents by winding down windows and
weaving all over the road. Just watch them pull up to the Dartford tunnel
one hand winding down the window and the other in their pockets looking for
change. Doesn't leave much for car control.
Steve
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From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 04:51:11 EST
Subject: Re-hi-lift goes up, not down
>>My newly aquired Hi-Lift jack is suffering from Viagra-syndrome.<<
Sounds more like anti Viagra syndrome to me. Seriously though do you mean it
does not go down with a load on it (a Land Rover for instance). These things
only work whilst under load. With mine once the weight of the LR is back on
the ground the hi-lift drops straight to the bottom of the shaft.
Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid
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From: Oliver_Gottlob@t-online.de (Oliver Gottlob)
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 10:13:32 +0000
Subject: RE: 2.25 diesel - non starting woes
Hello,
It seems to a leak in the fuel system so that a small amount of
diesel goes out and let a little bit air in.
I had this a few years ago and I searched the leak for abt. two week. Finaly I
found out the the
screw that holds the filter unit together was leaking.
Under the screwhead is a washer and a rubber o ring (very small) this was my
Problem. On an other
time I had a leaking copper ring at one of the pipes. Use this rings only one
time.
The flat screw on the bottom of the filter (made from plastic) is for to let
the water out.
One cold winter (the first with my Landrover) I found out that it is importend
to let the water out
before it is ice ;( The Landrover drivers, then stall, then it drives again
....
I had to use a hammer to remove the ice form the sendimentor bowl (under the
driver seat).
What are you doing that the old diesel goes that fast ? My diesel runs only 60
mph. I had a engine
rebuild 30.000km ago. The tappet clearance is adjusted propely (I hope).
Bye Bye
Oli
1976 Landrover 109 Diesel (2,25l) "slow and smokey"
owner-uk-lro-digest@playground.sun.com schrieb:
> From: The Bickertons <Bickerton@compuserve.com>
> Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 12:54:59 -0500
> Subject: 2.25 diesel - non starting woes
> Can somebody help me please? Today I got so desperate I went to see the
> experts, and they want me to spend another large wad of cash.
> When it runs, it runs fine. Brilliant for a 2.25D (like it'll get 70 on the
> clock down a hill, and hold it on the flat). However, a few mornings ago it
[ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
> fine. Now it refuses to start without being bled which is OK, but I don't
> like smelling of diesel all the time.
> This morning I bled it, drove it 10 miles (plenty of performance.... for a
> diesel) to the local parts / maintenance place, and parked up. Describing
> the symptoms to their mechanic, he said either change the fuel pipes, or
> fit a new injector pump. I did the latter about 2k miles ago, so I don't
> want another, and I can't see that the low-pressure fuel pipes are that
> critical (looking at them they just appear to be a push-fit onto the lift
> pump, now sealed by years of grime).
[ truncated by list-digester (was 34 lines)]
> that smelly on a suit! (Yes, I drive a 2.25D S3 in a suit, and good fun it
> is too - fazes people who generally double-take :-)
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From: Marijn van der Himst <marijn@multiweb.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 13:28:22 +0100
Subject: Re3: Instument panel wiring
Tom,
[[ what did you use to mark the ends?
White shrinking sleeve, write on it with a permanent marker pen,
cannot mention names or even .... or majordomo's spamkiller will
eat it all up again :)
Cheers
Marijn.
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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 14:50:56 +0100
Subject: Cable markings
I use clear heat shrink sleeving with a slip of paper with the wire
designation laser-printed on it - this is useful when for example
replacing the wires to the rear lights. I use 7 core trailer cable, and
re-run this from the bulkhead just beside the heater coil, all the way
through the chassis, and up into the right hand light compartment.
Similar cables run from the RH compartment to the LH and from the RH
compartment to the trailer socket. All cables are marked to indicate
where they go(come from) like - TO FRONT / TO TRAILER SOCKET / TO RH
LIGHTS. Each wire is marked with its function. I use insulated crimp
connectors (size BLUE) as these fit quite wel into LR torpedo connectors
for doubling up.
Many older series trucks which have had the tub pulled and rear chassis
member replaced, have had the wires cut just outside the chassis. This
IMHO is pure blasphemy. I have tried many times to make a successful
connection under the tub, but always with bad results after a few
months. Run the wiring unbroken from the front to the light compartment,
and make all connections here. Mate both feed, trailer and LH lights in
the RH comp - that makes fault finding easier, as you usually only have
to open the RH comp.
I have done this on all my trucks and - as yet - I have never had a
faulty wire since doing so.
Adrian Redmond
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark
telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit the "Native Experience" website at
http://www.channel6.dk/native
Contact the "Native Experience" film unit in Alaska
telephone +1 (907) 230 0359
e-mail channel6@alaska.net
Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk
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From: "Andrew Oakford" <Andrew.Oakford@btinternet.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 21:15:36 -0000
Subject: Re: 2.25 diesel - non starting woes
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From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl>
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 22:14:01 +0100
Subject: Re: Re-hi-lift goes up, not down
At 04:51 28-02-99 EST, you wrote:
>>>My newly aquired Hi-Lift jack is suffering from Viagra-syndrome.<<
>Sounds more like anti Viagra syndrome to me. Seriously though do you mean it
>does not go down with a load on it (a Land Rover for instance). These things
>only work whilst under load. With mine once the weight of the LR is back on
>the ground the hi-lift drops straight to the bottom of the shaft.
Yes, under load I mean. Without a load it falls down allright.
I have problems lowering a load with the handle.
Jan.
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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 23:38:41 +0100
Subject: Re: 2.25 diesel - non starting woes
The sedimentation filter (if fitted) is on the right hand of the chassis
under the floor and is accessible from the outside of the car. This
filter (if fitted) is the fuel's first stop on the way from the tank to
the fuel pump.
Off the top of my head - here's the diagram for a series III -
(If the Major doesn't trash the ASCII!)
|-<-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------<-|
| ret
in |
| |------<-|return
(overflow) |
| FUEL FILTER-->|
| to filter |
| top/C | out|
| to filter |
| | |
| to filter |
| | | |
(banjo injec/cyl #4) |
| return flow | |
|------------------------<-|
| r/top |
|------------------------<-|
| |------>SEDIMENTOR-------------->FUEL PUMP->|
|------>DIST PUMP (TOP)+--->4--|
| | rear front f/bot
|------>DIST PUMP (TOP)+--->4--|
| |
|--------------->DIST PUMP (BOT)+--->3--|
ret | |feeder/
w-sender
|--------------->DIST PUMP (BOT)+--->3--|
TANK
+--->2--|
|--------------->DIST PUMP (BOT)+--->3--|
+--->1--|
injectors
hope this helps. Good luck!
Adrian Redmond
http://www.channel6.dk/native
[Attachment removed, was 1 lines.]
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From: AVAC11@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 20:16:31 EST
Subject: mail
Anyone's got my mail about the defender engine choice?
Cheers, Gernot
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END OF * LIST DIGEST
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