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The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
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From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:05:17 +0100
Subject: The hi-lift that wouldn't go down
Hi all,
Remember it?
Well, thanks for all the advice, but nothing worked. And I did try them all
But the problem is cured by replacing the jack. The dealer was easily
conviced that there was really something wrong with it.
Now I have one that goes up and down like it should, and I am starting to
appreciate this wonderful piece of equipment!
Had a use for it the first day when replacing the rear propshaft. Just for
the fun of it I jacked up the Rover a bit to give me some workingspace.
Cheers,
Jan.
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From: "Geoff Wilkin" <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:27:33 -0000
Subject: Re: Filling steering relay
You are quite right, It will come apart, But as I said... I only removed ONE
bolt.
I must say I like the Idea of a grease nipple... Much better Idea.
Sorry about the Maths...They are 120 degrees apart.... But at half past ten
at night, and after a few cans, anyone can make a simple mistake!...
Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin
This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.
EMail geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).
'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits
From: Micky <micky@big101.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: 21 March 1999 02:38
Subject: Re: Filling steering relay
,>>There are three very small bolts on the top of the relay (180 degrees
,>I hate to be pedantic, but given the time of night, 3x180 = 540 degrees...
,>>I removed one, and dripped (as advised) oil into the hole, It took ages
,>>I used a Syringe (no needles!) to drip the oil in. It worked, but was
slow
,>Anyway, I thought that the relay would come apart in your hands if you
took
,>top off, i.e. lots of springs and stuff flying in your face.
,>For what it's worth, my father replaced one bolt on the relay top the
relay
,>on his lightweight with a grease nipple - makes it far easier to
,>re-lubricate.
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From: "Geoff Wilkin" <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:29:04 -0000
Subject: Re: Power Steering
Yes Its just over 1000 psi.
I was talking to the Milemarker winch man, they want about 1300 psi, and the
Land Rover only gives about 100psi, hence you wont get the full pull on the
milemarker winch.
Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin
This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.
EMail geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).
'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits
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From: "Geoff Wilkin" <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:29:46 -0000
Subject: Re: High Ratio transfer gears
Talk to Ian Ashcroft, of Automatic Conversions (See LROi adverts)
Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin
This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.
EMail geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).
'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits
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From: "Geoff Wilkin" <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:36:41 -0000
Subject: Re: Re-Registrations (wrong again)
OK Still very clear, you used a 25 year old Range Rover chassis (of a known
age).
For a leaf sprung land rover, to go to coils and still retain the Land Rover
reg it wont make it.
Sounds like the "main" vehicle is the Range Rover.
I thought it was very clear.
A body conversion does not attract as many points as a chassis and axles
changeout.
You kept the rangey chassis (5 points) the Engine (1 point) the Axles (2
points each)
Thats enough to retain the original Rangey Tax free registration.
Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin
This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.
EMail geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).
'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits
From: MRogers315@aol.com <MRogers315@aol.com>
Date: 21 March 1999 14:49
Subject: Re-Registrations (wrong again)
,>>>Geoff Wilkin wrote
,>>Take a look at the DVLA site, it explains it all there.
,>My Hybrid is legally tax exempt with the blessings of the vehicle
licensing
,>dept. In fact they helped me change from the Q plate issued when I built
it to
,>the original J plate of the Range Rover I built it from.
,>>The rules are very clear!!!!... I know of one vehicle already being "Q"
,>>plated and the Tax Exempt status being withdrawn by the DVLA. They are
well
,>>aware of thre situation with Land Rovers.
,>Not that clear perhaps.
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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 03:19:19 +0100
Subject: Looming up...
As my 109 rebuld nears completion - vehicle assembled but tub, roof,
wings and doors not on yet, it was time today to examine the old wiring
loom, which has been lurking in a cardboard box for three months.
I have long suspected this plastic tape adhesive festering spaghetti of
harbouring a nest of electrical vipers, so I peeled all the tape off,
and found two cables which were very badly burnt - a thick black cable -
from the instrument panel to the front somewhere, which was no longer in
use, and which appeared to have been cut away following a fry-up many
years ago; and the red wire to the front side lights, which still had
continuity, though very little insulation. Fortunatly red is the easy
one to replace without trashing the colour scheme.
I have washed and cleaned all wires with oil remover, paint thinners,
swarfega, and soapy water, so that 23 years of grime and paint no longer
obstruct colour code identification. Tomorrow I will replace the broken
wires, add a couple of spares to the breakfast panel for relay operated
spots, and loom it all up again with self amalgamating tape. This will
give me the opportunity of pulling a few wires closer to the front to
make up for the ends which are now slightly short/taut.
It's a job like this which really demonstrates how useless the LR wiring
diagram is - I have decided to draw a new one, laid out like the loom
instead of the schematic format. Nice job for a rainy day when I have
nothing else to do.
Surprisingly, after an hours cleaning and tidying up, I can see that the
loom is in great condition. Another 24 hours and it will be as good as
new.
But just in case anyone has any useful loom hints, I'll check the mail
tomorrow.
Hi!
Adrian Redmond
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark
telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit the "Native Experience" website at
http://www.channel6.dk/native
Contact the "Native Experience" film unit in Alaska
telephone +1 (907) 230 0359
e-mail channel6@alaska.net
Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk
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From: Andrew Baker <Andrew_Baker@mitel.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:17:37 -0000
Subject: RE: Looming up...
Problem with doing your own is keeping it upto date, although I surpose
that's true of any circuit. My diagram has lots of pencil marks all over
it but I never find just the right rainy day to add all the mods
properly.
Andrew B
>It's a job like this which really demonstrates how useless the LR
wiring
>diagram is - I have decided to draw a new one, laid out like the loom
>instead of the schematic format. Nice job for a rainy day when I have
>nothing else to do.
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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:58:33 +0000
Subject: Re: Crewe
>Rooth, yer a sad, sad man.
Only sad because I wasnt there to see it....
>Why on earth did I mention Crewe...........
'Cos yer as sad as me...:-)
Cheers
Mike Rooth
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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 10:32:56 +0000
Subject: Re: Wheelclamps
>Got clamped in the SII when I was a student...
Colleague of mine had a mate who was forever getting clamped.He finally
got fed up with it and bought his own clamp.Messed it up a bit,then
wherever he parked he put his own clamp on.Never had a moments trouble
after that.....
Cheers
Mike Rooth
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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 10:46:25 +0000
Subject: Re: Thanks
Don't you just some
>times wish gov't would just run the damn country, and knock off the crap?
Not really Jim.I just wish the government would stop trying to run
the country, and knock off the crap as well:-)
Mike Rooth
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From: "Peter Dowson" <Peter.Dowson@softwareag.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 10:50:06 -0000
Subject: Re: Wheelclamps
-> >Got clamped in the SII when I was a student...
-> Colleague of mine had a mate who was forever getting clamped.He finally
-> got fed up with it and bought his own clamp.Messed it up a bit,then
-> wherever he parked he put his own clamp on.Never had a moments trouble
-> after that.....
Perhaps he should have started parking where he wouldn't get clamped, for
example a car park ;-)
Peter Dowson
S1 80"
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From: "Geoff Wilkin" <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 11:01:18 -0000
Subject: Re: Looming up...
Also think about using "Spirobind" Its a sort of curly strip (consider a
Tube cut in a spiral - Coil spring shaped)
This is good for holding wires inplace whilst you tape up.
There is a proper binding tape for this that is NOT sticky. Then use a tie
wrap or two to secure the ends (and perhaps a few along the way to be extra
secure!.
Dont wrap the lot up in PVC sticky tape, the heat and oil will turn it into
a gooey mess in a few months or a year.
Personally I would solder all joints, or any bits that you "piece out" this
way you will be sure of a good joint for all times.
I dont blame you on the wiring diagram.
Do it whilst you have the loom in bits, then you wont have any surprises
later (or splinters under the fingernails from head scratching!)
Its nice to see the loom is in good condition after so long.
I have to do the lot on mine, so will be wiring from scratch.
Best of Luck..
Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin
This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.
EMail geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).
'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits
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From: Braam@ma2.sun.ac.za
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:13:55 GMT + 200
Subject: Friends from Land Rover South Africa
Hello,
Please give me the P Mail address from Land Rover in the UK
OR forward this request to the right person/company.
Thank you.
BRAAM STANDER
SALDANHA
SOUTH AFRICA
CELL +2782 8078722
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From: "Baker, Stuart J" <bakersj@bp.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 11:14:37 -0000
Subject: RE: SII wing mirrors (real SII door mirrors)
Can someone give me the Tel No or address of PA Blanchards ?
Many Thanks
Stuart
1961 SII Big and Yella
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From: Braam@ma2.sun.ac.za
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:13:54 GMT + 200
Subject: Friends from Land Rover South Africa
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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 11:14:57 +0000
Subject: Re: Wheelclamps
Perhaps he should have started parking where he wouldn't get clamped, for
>example a car park ;-)
That's what I said initially.Transpired he was a travelling engineer,
so needed his vehicle somewhere not a million miles away from the job.
Mike Rooth
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From: "Geoff Wilkin" <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 11:42:19 -0000
Subject: Re: Wheelclamps
Thats a nice original idea....
Perhaps you could persuade ALL the car park companies and the councils to
increase the height limit, so that us 110 drivers with uprated springs (not
increased height jobs, just uprated Factory springs) and Roof racks, yellow
beacons etc can get into them.
I cant get into any of the city carparks in cambridge, except the out doors
ones.
Even the park and Ride has a height limit. As does the council re-cycling
centre...etc etc etc.
I suppose its to stop the commercials and travellers etc etc.
Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin
This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.
EMail geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).
'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits
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From: chris.mokes@symbian.com
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 11:00:13 GMT
Subject: what size should my nuts be???
Does anyone know what size nuts are needed to hold the fog lamp on a
90? They look like 4 or 5mm diameter bolts. I could buy an
assortment I suppose.
I optimistically expected to be able to unscrew the old ones at the
weekend :-( As usual, a simple 5 minute job, turned into a long one
as the captive bolts in the old fog lamp became not so captive and I
ended up having to remove the old lamp with a combination of stanley
knife and hammer.
Cheers
Chris
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From: Andrew Baker <Andrew_Baker@mitel.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 12:26:23 -0000
Subject: Front stub axle nuts
That email about nuts reminds me. I need to dismantle my front hubs to
replace the oil seals so that the oil doesn't drain onto the brake pads
and leak out through the freewheel hubs.
To get the hub off, you need to remove that funny castalated ring
(shalln't call it a nut as it has no sides) deep down in the freewheel
hub. I could make a special spanner from a piece of pipe, but can anyone
tell me what size pipe I should start with, does anyone have a drawing
of the REAL spanner?
Andrew B
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From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 07:36:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Dunsfold leaf sprung "Sort-Out"
Graham,
The Judge Dredd 101s are, I think always out in the open.
To get to Dunsfold from London,first get to Guildford, Surrey on the
A3.
Then:
Follow signs Farnham A31
to leave by Farnham Road & ascend (1 in 9)
Junction with A3 (south)
Branch left (signposted Petersfield) & join A3
Junction with A283/B3001 (MILFORD JUNCTION)
Branch left (signposted Milford)
& at roundabout take 1st exit A283
MILFORD
At 3rd traffic signals turn left
(signposted Petworth)
In 0.2 mile at roundabout take 2nd exit
Chiddingfold
At green turn left unclassified (signposted
Dunsfold)
In 1 mile turn left (signposted Cranleigh)
Dunsfold ("The Sun" PH)
I cannot remember the road that "Dunsfold Landrovers (DLR)" are in.
You may be able to find an advert for Surrey Off Road (Who built the
Jeep Rubicon). They are next door!
Paul
Ex- H.M. Coastguard SIII SWB
"Dougal Mc Landie"
B895 OJT (1984)
(Navy Blue with a Yellow Roof)
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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:19:20 +0100
Subject: Re: Looming up...
What I meant was that the circuit diag. in the manual shows what is
connected to what, but not where the wires go.
The diagram should be laid out like the loom, then you could follow the
wires more easily. Though after 50 years no one's complained?
:-)
Adrian Redmond
http://www.channel6.dk/native
[Attachment removed, was 1 lines.]
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From: "Peter Estibeiro" <petere@srv0.bio.ed.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:13:23 +0000
Subject: away for a bit
Hi
I'm away for a bit, you may accidently have seen an autoreply to that
effect for which I appologise! I'd been having trouble getting the
autoreply to work then, suddenly and as if by magic, it did.
Straight after that a list message came in and will probably have
been replied to by forces outside my control. I'm going to
unsubscribe for a bit to prevent it happening continuously. Just end
with some LR content: I may spend part of my time off getting the
gear box out of my series III and trying to disable the automatic
oil-change feature which it has developed. Also planning a few days
up North by LR and an RTV.
See you soon. Don't work too hard.
Cheers
Peter.
Peter Estibeiro
Membrane Biology Group
Department of Biomedical Science
University of Edinburgh
Edinburgh EH8 9XD
tel: 44 131 6503731
fax: 44 131 6503711
email peter.estibeiro@ed.ac.uk
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From: Dave Ladell <ladell@proasisn.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:25:19 +0000
Subject: Re-proofing soft tops
Having got a replacement engine in the Lightweight, one that hopefully
won't consume a litre of oil in 100 miles, I'm intending to take it to
Sapin at Easter. The only problem being that the soft top leaks. I've
seen Fabsil sold for re-proofing canvas tents, and I've heard mention of
Mesowax. Does anyone have any experience of the two products and
reccomendations of which one to use?
Cheers,
Dave Ladell
'75 Lightweight 2.5TD
nr. Buxton, Derbyshire, UK
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From: "Peter Dowson" <Peter.Dowson@softwareag.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:50:48 -0000
Subject: Re: SII wing mirrors (real SII door mirrors)
I do everything by fax :-
To P. A. Blanchard
Fax 01430 872777
I don't have the postal address or telephone number on me at present.
Peter Dowson
S1 80"
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From: "Peter Dowson" <Peter.Dowson@softwareag.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:55:20 -0000
Subject: Re: Looming up...
-> What I meant was that the circuit diag. in the manual shows what is
-> connected to what, but not where the wires go.
->
-> The diagram should be laid out like the loom, then you could follow the
-> wires more easily. Though after 50 years no one's complained?
->
Have you seen the wiring diagrams in the 48-53 owner's manual? Apart from
only having to worry about three wires fron to back it is more or less layed
out as you would expect to find it. There is a schematic of the instrument
panel in the middle with front lights at the bottom and rear lights at the
top. BUT I do know what you mean in relation to the later manuals - pretty
terrible ;-)
Peter Dowson
S1 80"
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From: "Peter Dowson" <Peter.Dowson@softwareag.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:59:33 -0000
Subject: Re: Wheelclamps
-> Thats a nice original idea....
-> Perhaps you could persuade ALL the car park companies and the councils to
-> increase the height limit, so that us 110 drivers with uprated springs
(not
-> increased height jobs, just uprated Factory springs) and Roof racks,
yellow
-> beacons etc can get into them.
-> I cant get into any of the city carparks in cambridge, except the out
doors
-> ones.
-> Even the park and Ride has a height limit. As does the council
re-cycling
-> centre...etc etc etc.
->
-> I suppose its to stop the commercials and travellers etc etc.
->
I can sympathise with your problems with height restrictions - a shame about
the type of vehicle as it is so much more difficult to fold down the
windscreen giving you about a 4 foot height restriction as can be done on
earlier incantations of the vehicle ;-)
However, I do not see that this gives one the right to park anywhere. Like
most things in life these days, they ( car parks ) are only designed to
accomodate 90% of the cars on the road.
Peter Dowson
S1 80"
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From: d.p.round@bangor.ac.uk
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:08:46 GMT
Subject: Re: Re-proofing soft tops
In my experience Mesowax (the brush-on stuff) works
well on canvas. If you put it on too thick you
might get a bit of a bloom but it will be waterproof.
I have only ever used fabsil on nylon and was
disappointed in the results.
David
****** David Round - EMail round@bangor.ac.uk ******
*****These are my own views, I represent nobody (Well maybe myself)*****
***********I guarantee nothing - Particularly the spelling**************
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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:27:18 +0000
Subject: Re: Looming up...
BUT I do know what you mean in relation to the later manuals - pretty
>terrible ;-)
If you think they are terrible look at almost any modern cars wiring
"diagram".Personally I prefer the old fashioned ones every time.
Mike Rooth
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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:30:18 +0000
Subject: Re: Wheelclamps
Like
>most things in life these days, they ( car parks ) are only designed to
>accomodate 90% of the cars on the road.
Well,if 90% of cars on the road are in a car park:
Where is this car park (M25)?
Why is there so much congestion?
Expiring minds......
Cheers
Mike Rooth
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From: "Geoff Wilkin" <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:40:02 -0000
Subject: Re: Re-proofing soft tops
The lady across the road, Her son did it with Waxoyl, Its OK, and certainly
doesn't leak.
The only downside I saw was it was a bit "Tacky" to the touch, but it didnt
rub off on your hands.
He cut it with white spirit, and painted on with a Paintbrush.
I have used fabsil and mesowax on tents, they are OK, but for fine cotton.
But should be OK on the heavy canvas of a soft top.
Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin
This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.
EMail geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).
'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits
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From: "Geoff Wilkin" <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:47:09 -0000
Subject: Re: Wheelclamps
Quite right, I only park where I should.
It just pees me off that I cant avail myself of the services that I pay for
as a Council Tax payer.
Its not a big problem for me, just an annoyance
Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin
This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.
EMail geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).
'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits
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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 15:03:59 +0000
Subject: Re: Wheelclamps
It just pees me off that I cant avail myself of the services that I pay for
>as a Council Tax payer.
Part of the problem of paying up front.They've got the money,you've got
the hassle.Write 'em a letter.Accuse 'em of discrimination.Should get
the bastards awake at any event.
Mike Rooth
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From: Anthony Cornell-Hewlett <Tony.Cornell-Hewlett@Bristol.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 17:06:41 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Re: Utter madness
Everyone who owns a Landrover is utterly mad (in the nicest possible way).
Owning a landrover is kinda like being married! Although you
complain about the wife and as she starts to get saggy around the
edges, you may find youself looking at the nice new models on the street.
But still you know deep down the old girl will always stick by you and get
you through.
And deep down you know that or else you wouldn't have spent in excess of
500.00 pounds each year for the last 17 years to pass an MOT on a vehicle
that leaks like a sieve and has less comfort and noise control then tring to
ride a jack hammer.
Thats all about what Land rovers are and indeed their owners
regards
TONY C-H
1987 V8 county 90
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From: "Geoff Wilkin" <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 17:32:04 -0000
Subject: Re: Utter madness
Damn... Its that obvious is it?
Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin
This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.
EMail geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).
'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits
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From: "Gareth Evans" <g.d.evans@talk21.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 18:06:21 -0000
Subject: Utter madness - The confession
Ok..Ok..! She has grown on me. The dammed thing has done 250,000 miles and
i cannot recall it letting me down in all 120,000 completed by myself,
friends or relatives.
Yes, almost everyone i know has borrowed it for one purpose or another, I
personally travelled the country in it for 10 years. I suppose it
realistically owes me sod all.
HOWEVER...2225cc of 20 years old LR diesel is not practical for modern
motoring..unless your sole purpose is to iritate other drivers initiating
traffic jams. Diesel is'nt as cheap as it used to be and Tax excemption is
out of the question (1979).
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From: "Rob Smith" <rob@archenland.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 19:47:17 -0000
Subject: RE: Wheelclamps
I have a serious aversion on going into multi story carparks after what
happened to my brother.
The height limit was some what more than his 110, so he drove in, passing
the barrier with a few inches to spare. So far so good. As he was groping
around looking for a parking space he heard a scraping noise form on high,
and a new dent appeared in the roof, water pouring down as well (allegedly).
He had delivered a hefty smack to a 'U' bend of some drain or other hanging
well down below the stated 'maximum height'. This was some time back, and I
gather he is still waiting for the council's insurers to pay out.
If you think Cambridge is bad, I can't (legally) get into any of the
surface, 'council' car parks in Stafford, the goal posts are too low.
Rob Smith
Mine's the blue 110
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From: "Paul O' Byrne" <paulob@iol.ie>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 20:03:57 -0000
Subject: Re: Billing 99
It is OK Frank all are welcome at the LRCI site.
That is if you do not mind crawling home to your tent after.
In fact I will be disappointed if you all do not call to say hello.
We will be at our usual spot next to the show site on shellduck meadow.
Just look out for my black short arsed rangie.
Paul O' Byrne
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From: "Paul O' Byrne" <paulob@iol.ie>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 20:10:55 -0000
Subject: Re: The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
>From: "Dave White" <davew@landie.demon.co.uk>
>Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 18:36:07 +0000
>Subject: Re: Billing 99
>Hi Paul,
>> Do not forget to come over to the Landrover club of Ireland site
>> for some more tea ( with additive )
[ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)]
><http://www.landie.demon.co.uk/>
Hi Dave, Pam, Skippy the alien and the plastic paddy we are all looking
forword
to seeing you in July. Until then stay safe.
Paul and the GANG.
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From: "Micky" <micky@big101.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 20:14:49 -0000
Subject: What would I expect to pay
Hi all,
Out of interest, and 'cos I have one and don't know how much it's worth (and
might have found a buyer), how much would I expect to pay from a scrap yard
for a running 2.5 diesel engine + gearbox?
Cheers
Micky
101 in bits
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From: "Gareth Evans" <g.d.evans@talk21.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 20:20:24 -0000
Subject: Re: How much
1 groat and it turnip....... if you can catch it.
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From: "Eric Leuzinger" <eric@solihull64.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 20:35:28 -0000
Subject: propshaft question
simple question......famous last words
i have a series 3 propshaft.......does it fit on a 90?
my mates 90 is VOR and i happen to have this prop to hand....maybe enough to
get him home?
Loz
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From: "Gareth Evans" <g.d.evans@talk21.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 22:17:21 -0000
Subject: Power take-off
A friend of mine has aquired a power take-off and is frantically trying to
flog it to me.
Does anyone know what what sort of attachments they can drive
Where do the attachments go.....particularly can you get a water pump for
it.
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From: andy Smith <andy@bobstar.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 22:29:47 +0000
Subject: Re: Re-proofing soft tops
In message <bulk.1819.19990322052848@Land-Rover.Team.Net>, Dave Ladell
<ladell@proasisn.demon.co.uk> writes
>Having got a replacement engine in the Lightweight, one that hopefully
>won't consume a litre of oil in 100 miles, I'm intending to take it to
>Sapin at Easter. The only problem being that the soft top leaks. I've
>seen Fabsil sold for re-proofing canvas tents, and I've heard mention of
>Mesowax. Does anyone have any experience of the two products and
>reccomendations of which one to use?
I used Thompsons water seal for canvas it is for use on various
surfaces, and it works !. Just do not get it on the windscreen. Why ?
Because it took me half an hour to put the seal on and half an hour to
clean it off the front screens it sticks to the glass better than glue.
Andy Smith
1965 ser2a V8 swb road/ccvt 1971 ser2a 2.25p swb road
Tamworth Staffs ICQ 30236512
Founder of #uk_rover IRC chat channel on DAL.NET
For more information please visit http://www.bobstar.demon.co.uk/index.html
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From: "Matthew Reeve & Mel Mauger" <blatchwood@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 19:49:57 -0000
Subject: Re: Wheelclamps
>Unfortunately here in Brum the local clamping scum believe they can clamp
>anything. I'm just waiting the opportunity to return a clamp to them, at
>their expense, from my Australian agent.
>Rob Smith
Aha, but if they clamp me illegally, then I'm entitled to do whatever
necessary to remove the clamp, even if it involves destroying it as they
have illegally interfered with my vehicle. Therefore I can rip it off, and
then bill them for my time removing it, costs of storage of the offending
clamp until they chose to collect it, wear and tear on tools used and also
any damage to my vehicle.
Not to mention the fun aspect :-))
Matthew
UK, nr Heathrow
1979 2-dr Range Rover 300Tdi
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From: "Tom Murkin" <tom@riverside-repairs.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 22:44:26 -0000
Subject: Re: What would I expect to pay
how much would I expect to pay from a scrap yard
>for a running 2.5 diesel engine + gearbox?
I recently paid 260GBP for a running 2.5 diesel engine - private purchase,
bought as seen, but told in good running order. I rebuilt it anyway before
installing it, but it didn't really need it.
Tom
SIII 2.5D
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From: "Tom Murkin" <tom@riverside-repairs.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 23:01:47 -0000
Subject: Re: Wheelclamps
>I have a serious aversion on going into multi story carparks after what
>happened to my brother.
>The height limit was some what more than his 110, so he drove in, passing
>the barrier with a few inches to spare. So far so good. As he was groping
A friend of mine (who shall remain nameless) thought that he could get into
a multi storey car park with the new 110 defender he was driving, as he only
wanted to park on the ground floor! Just as he was driving in he heard an
almighty scrunch, and stopped dead. Turns out he had got the roof rack
caught in the height barrier, at 10am Saturday morning. Couldn't untangle
it, and had to wait for someone to come and cut him free - not a popular
move for Saturday morning :-)
Mind you, he got his own back - 2 weeks later, he heard that the head Exmoor
Ranger did exactly the same in his Land Rover, but also badly damaged the
roof as well!
Tom
SIII 2.5D
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From: "Tom Murkin" <tom@riverside-repairs.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 22:51:55 -0000
Subject: Re: Wheelclamps
>I cant get into any of the city carparks in cambridge, except the out doors
>ones.
>Even the park and Ride has a height limit. As does the council re-cycling
Out of 6 car parks, I can only get into the 2 right in the very centre of
town (occasionaly - its very tight in a 109, particularly if people can't
park within the lines!) which are short stay only, and charge 70p per hour
max stay 2 hours. All the other car parks have a hight restriction on, but
are fairly close to the centre and only charge 20p per hour!
Tom
SIII 2.5D
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From: "Tom Murkin" <tom@riverside-repairs.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 23:22:00 -0000
Subject: Re: Looming up...
>Also think about using "Spirobind" Its a sort of curly strip (consider a
>Tube cut in a spiral - Coil spring shaped)
>This is good for holding wires inplace whilst you tape up.
Heard of this before - where can you get it from?
>There is a proper binding tape for this that is NOT sticky. Then use a tie
Again, where can I get this from? Presumably this is the stuff that is used
originally?
>Dont wrap the lot up in PVC sticky tape, the heat and oil will turn it into
>a gooey mess in a few months or a year.
BTDT - its fine until you need to work on the loom for something...
I'm asking because it looks like I will have to do a complete rewire when I
can find the time - not just the instrument panel. I hate those blue 'snap'
connectors that cut into the wire, they seem to be so prevailent in my
present wiring - the cause of the rear lights, and most of the trailer
lights stopping working recently, at night of course :-)
Cheers
Tom
SIII 2.5D
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From: "Micky" <micky@big101.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 23:37:28 -0000
Subject: Re: How much
Wise words, mate...
>1 groat and it turnip....... if you can catch it.
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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 21:18:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Front stub axle nuts
Hi Andrew...
>To get the hub off, you need to remove that funny castalated ring
>(shalln't call it a nut as it has no sides) deep down in the freewheel
>hub.
If you refering to the thing that takes the cotter pin - It's a castalated nut.
This, on my IIA anyway, is just a 1 inch nut.
You'll need to take off the giant locking nut too - this, on mine, is 2
1/16th in.
I needed to buy a special socket for this one.
I did this a few months ago - fun, fun, fun!
Good luck,
Peter
Oops - I just noticed you're talking freewheels (??!) - anyway...
Peter M. Kaskan Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382 Dept. Of Psychology
Lab / 607-255-6396 Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 04:44:04 +0100
Subject: Re: Front stub axle nuts
The outer castellated nut (the first nut you see when you remove the
dust caps) is hexagonal on the old series II, IIA and early III 88"
front axle. On the 109 the nut is larger, due to the thicker axle end
with 24 splines, and there is not room for a hex outer profile. There is
a special tool for this (I borrowed one last week) which looks like a
#27 ½" socket with inverted crenalations which mates with the nut. Later
SIII 88"s (after 1988) and SIII 109's have this set up as standard. I
don't know about 109 Series II's and IIA's - before my time.
Removing the nut without this tool can be easy - if the nut is not too
tight, but if it is tight, then hammering with a chisel or blunt
screwdriver will wreck the nut and the screwdriver.
My best guess is to borrow the correct tool, or worse case, make one -
maybe a turned piece of round bar with the same diameter, with the sides
ground down with an angle grinmder leaving two keys to mate with two
slots in the nut would do, at least your pressure would be concentric. A
simple tommy-bar through the round bar would give adequate leverage.
Remember to harden the bar before using it.
Good luck!
Adrian Redmond
http://www.channel6.dk/native
[Attachment removed, was 1 lines.]
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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 22:54:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Front stub axle nuts
>...On the 109 the nut is larger, due to the thicker axle end
>with 24 splines, and there is not room for a hex outer profile. There is
>a special tool for this (I borrowed one last week) which looks like a
>#27 ‡" socket with inverted crenalations which mates with the nut. Later
>SIII 88"s (after 1988) and SIII 109's have this set up as standard.
Oops, now the original question makes sense!
>...you need to remove that funny castalated ring
>(shalln't call it a nut as it has no sides) deep down in the freewheel
>hub. I could make a special spanner from a piece of pipe
Oh well... I tried...
Cheers - P
Peter M. Kaskan Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382 Dept. Of Psychology
Lab / 607-255-6396 Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
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[spamkill: 208\.255\.67\. input: %s] Received: from ponder.server
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