The UK/IERE Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: Andrew Baker <Andrew_Baker@mitel.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 08:36:12 -0000
Subject: RE: Front stub axle nuts

My problem is the freewheel hub which is about 5" long, hence the nut is
not accessible to a punch, looks like I'll have to find the real thing,
or let the garage to it (hangs head in shame) :-(

Andrew B

>tight, but if it is tight, then hammering with a chisel or blunt
>screwdriver will wreck the nut and the screwdriver.

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From: Andrew Baker <Andrew_Baker@mitel.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 08:32:53 -0000
Subject: RE: Wheelclamps

Brixham only has one car park, in the summer you can't get in even with
the wind-screen down and in the winter the height limit stops you. They
have also started putting low bars across the entrances to most beaches,
basically to stop travelers, but it means the LR can't get there either.

Andrew B

Tom wrote:
>Out of 6 car parks, I can only get into the 2 right in the very centre
of
>town 

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From: "Peter Dowson" <Peter.Dowson@softwareag.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 08:57:34 -0000
Subject: Re: Looming up...

> >There is a proper binding tape for this that is NOT sticky. Then use a
tie
> Again, where can I get this from? Presumably this is the stuff that is
used
> originally?

I suggest you contact AutoSparks of 80-88 Derby Road, Sandiacre, Nottingham
[spamkill: [Ss][Aa][Ll][Ee][Ss]@ input: %s]	 NG10 5HU, tel: 0115 9497211 
Fax: 0115 9491955, email sales@autosparks.co.uk

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From: "Geoff Wilkin" <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 09:07:43 -0000
Subject: Re: What would I expect to pay

Dunno abt the engine, but at leats 250 ukp for the box as long as its a good
un.
What do the others think?.

Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin

This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.

EMail      geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).

'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits

From: Micky <micky@big101.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: 22 March 1999 20:17
Subject: What would I expect to pay

>Out of interest, and 'cos I have one and don't know how much it's worth
(and
>might have found a buyer), how much would I expect to pay from a scrap yard
>for a running 2.5 diesel engine + gearbox?

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From: "Peter Dowson" <Peter.Dowson@softwareag.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 09:09:40 -0000
Subject: Re: Power take-off

->
-> A friend of mine has aquired a power take-off and is frantically trying
to
-> flog it to me.
->
-> Does anyone know what what sort of attachments they can drive
->
-> Where do the attachments go.....particularly can you get a water pump for
-> it.

It depends where the power take off is. My knowledge is really for fitments
to series 1s but I assume that it is similar for the later models. The
original landrover was designed to have power take offs everywhere. This
meant front, middle, side and back. They were all effectively driven off the
back of the gear box where an overdrive unit would go - you can have either
but not both. So, where does your pto take you? To the front would suggest a
winch or a water pump ( eg fire engines ). To the side would suggest a grass
cutter, to the center would suggest a welding plant and to the rear anything
else. A number of standard fittings for the early S1 ( as illustrated in the
parts catalogue ! ) were a splined output shaft ( for farm type
equipement ), a rotating bollard either in line with the vehicle or at 90
degrees to it for a belt, etc. The belt could obviously drive anything that
a belt could drive.

You would ideally need an engine goeverner and hand throttle (more than the
pull a bit of wire type provided as standard) and these parts for the early
S1 are certainly difficult to find.

Peter Dowson
S1 80"

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From: "Peter Dowson" <Peter.Dowson@softwareag.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 09:02:39 -0000
Subject: Re: Wheelclamps

->
-> Brixham only has one car park, in the summer you can't get in even with
-> the wind-screen down and in the winter the height limit stops you. They
-> have also started putting low bars across the entrances to most beaches,
-> basically to stop travelers, but it means the LR can't get there either.
->
I would have thought that with the windscreen down, the profile of a
landrover is that of a brick about 4' high. What height is the barrier and
do all "normal" cars have to limbo to get under it?

In Ashbourne and Uttoxeter (my local area) the only barrier is on the
council dump and they will swing that out of the way if you are a genuine
user of the dump.

Peter Dowson
S1 80"

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From: "Geoff Wilkin" <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 09:18:42 -0000
Subject: Re: Wheelclamps

Err I dont think you can rip it off and damage it. However illegally it was
fitted.

These would be seen as two separate cases, Get it off without damaging it,

Two wrongs dont make a right do they?.

Personally I agree with your sentiment, but I believe the legal position is
different.

Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin

This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.

EMail      geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).

'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits

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From: "Baker, Stuart J" <bakersj@bp.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 09:16:04 -0000
Subject: Re: Utter Madness

Tony wrote:
>Everyone who owns a Landrover is utterly mad (in the nicest possible way).

>Owning a landrover is kinda like being married!  
>and has less comfort and noise control than trying to ride a jack hammer.

You've met the wife then have you Tony !!

Stuart
1961 SII Big and Yella

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From: "Geoff Wilkin" <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 09:23:50 -0000
Subject: Re: Looming up...

I have a catalogue at home somewhere I will try to look it out. "Blue
Beehive" seems to ring a bell with me...

I will check (when I remember - two boys are quite demanding!)

Use the non sticky tape and secure the ends, thatw what the manufacturer
uses. Self Amalgamating tape will be OK as long as you protect it with
something else (we use tons at BT).

I dont know where to get the spiro band, try Maplin, or RS components etc

There are several auto electric mail order companies about...

Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin

This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.

EMail      geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).

'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits

From: Tom Murkin <tom@riverside-repairs.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: 22 March 1999 23:31
Subject: Re: Looming up...

>>Also  think about using "Spirobind" Its a sort of curly strip (consider a
>>Tube cut in a spiral  - Coil spring shaped)
>>This is good for holding wires inplace whilst you tape up.
>Heard of this before - where can you get it from?
>>There is a proper binding tape for this that is NOT sticky. Then use a tie
>Again, where can I get this from? Presumably this is the stuff that is used
>originally?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>originally?
>>Dont wrap the lot up in PVC sticky tape, the heat and oil will turn it
into
>>a gooey mess in a few months or a year.
>BTDT - its fine until you need to work on the loom for something...
>I'm asking because it looks like I will have to do a complete rewire when I
>can find the time - not just the instrument panel.  I hate those blue
>>There is a proper binding tape for this that is NOT sticky. Then use a tie
'snap'

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[spamkill: from unknown input: %s]	 Received: from unknown(172.16.1.60) by 
gatekeeper.butterworths.co.uk via smap (3.2)
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18
From: Tom Murkin <tom@riverside-repairs.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: 22 March 1999 23:31
Subject: Re: Looming up...

>>Also  think about using "Spirobind" Its a sort of curly strip
(consider a
>>Tube cut in a spiral  - Coil spring shaped)
	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 11 lines)]
>originally?
>>Dont wrap the lot up in PVC sticky tape, the heat and oil will turn =
it

into
>>a gooey mess in a few months or a year.
>BTDT - its fine until you need to work on the loom for something...
>I'm asking because it looks like I will have to do a complete rewire
when I
>can find the time - not just the instrument panel.  I hate those blue

'snap'
NO MAIL LOOPS: DELETE THIS and following lines to forward.
HREF=3D"http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin" =
TARGET=3D"_blank">http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin</A> - (Site =
&lt;tom@riverside-repairs.freeserve.co.uk&gt;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>To: uk-lro@playground.sun.com =
&lt;uk-lro@playground.sun.com&gt;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Date: 22 March 1999 23:31</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Subject: Re: Looming up...</FONT>
<BR>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;&gt;Also&nbsp; think about using =
&quot;Spirobind&quot; Its a sort of curly strip (consider a</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;&gt;Tube cut in a spiral&nbsp; - Coil spring =
shaped)</FONT>
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<FONT SIZE=3D2> [ =
truncated by lro-lite (was 11 lines)]</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;originally?</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;&gt;Dont wrap the lot up in PVC sticky tape, the =
heat and oil will turn it</FONT>
<BR>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>into</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;&gt;a gooey mess in a few months or a =
year.</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;BTDT - its fine until you need to work on the =
loom for something...</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;I'm asking because it looks like I will have to =
do a complete rewire when I</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;can find the time - not just the instrument =
panel.&nbsp; I hate those blue</FONT>
<BR>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>'snap'</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>NO MAIL LOOPS: DELETE THIS and following lines to =
forward.</FONT>
HREF=3D"http://WWW.Land-Rover.Team.Net/" =
TARGET=3D"_blank">http://WWW.Land-Rover.Team.Net/</A></FONT>
HREF=3D"http://WWW.Land-Rover.Team.Net/" =
TARGET=3D"_blank">http://WWW.Land-Rover.Team.Net/</A></FONT>

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From: chris.mokes@symbian.com
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 09:27:31 GMT
Subject: Re: what size should my nuts be??? 

     > Does anyone know what size nuts are needed to hold the fog lamp
     > on a 90? 
     
     Answering my own question just in case anyone is interested, they are 
     M5 and an 8mm socket fits.
     
     Chris
     

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From: Dave Ladell <ladell@proasisn.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 10:09:23 +0000
Subject: Re-proofing soft tops

Thanks for all the replies.  I'll be a bit limited by what I can get hold
of round here.  Also the soft top is now wet as it's started raining again
(did it ever stop or just pause for breath?)

Cheers,

Dave Ladell  
'75 Lightweight 2.5TD 
nr. Buxton, Derbyshire, UK

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From: Mark Allery <M.Allery@ee.surrey.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 10:13:33 -0000
Subject: RE: Front stub axle nuts

> To get the hub off, you need to remove that funny castalated ring
> (shalln't call it a nut as it has no sides) deep down in the freewheel
> hub. 
	Yep - I find the split pin to be the most difficult part of it as
its so deep within the FWH. Once the pin is out the nut is normally easy to
move since its well lubricated by the oil leak you describe. A gentle tap
downwards on a bar fitted into the crenellation is normally enough to get it
moving and it can then be removed by hand. If its not well lubricated give
it a really good soak in wd40 before you try to remove it. 

	cheers

	Mark 

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From: Andy Gardiner <101_nut@shedcity.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 10:20:46 +0000
Subject: parking

In message <bulk.27266.19990323001044@Land-Rover.Team.Net>, owner-uk-
lro-digest@playground.sun.com writes
>Perhaps you could persuade ALL the car park companies and the councils to
>increase the height limit, so that us 110 drivers with uprated springs (not
>increased height jobs, just uprated Factory springs) and Roof racks, yellow
>beacons etc can get into them.
>I cant get into any of the city carparks in cambridge, except the out doors
>ones.
>Even the park and Ride has a height  limit. As does the council re-cycling
>centre...etc etc etc.

My RR stands 6 foot one, the multi-storey limit in Norwich is six foot 3
inches. How do thay measure this height? If just the clearance between
the floor and roof then on one of the inclines I'm likely to severely
dent my roof ... I wonder if it measured for a given wheelbase ...?

Needless to say, I haven't risked it yet - I'm not sure what their
insurance cover is like! 
-- 
Andy Gardiner
BLRC Editor
Lit me tell yew tha' orl vews, ign'rent o' th' fax an' tu'al lud
a' squit tha' thay moit be, are me own unless oi sed atherwoise.

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From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 11:08:15 +0000
Subject: Re: Utter madness

Anthony Cornell-Hewlett wrote:

> Everyone who owns a Landrover is utterly mad (in the nicest possible way).
> Owning a landrover is kinda like being married!

A Landrover? So the more Landies you've got the madder you are! And if you are
married as well, what hope!!!

Mick Forster, married with:
1972 109" Series III Safari 2.25 petrol
1963 88" Series IIa 2.25 petrol
1962 88" Series IIa electric, one day!
and 3 kids and a dog
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/landpics.html

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From: Dave Haynes <david.haynes@roke.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 11:17:45 -0800
Subject: Re : Problems Looming

Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> made me cringe when he wrote :-

>obstruct colour code identification. Tomorrow I will replace the broken
>wires, add a couple of spares to the breakfast panel for relay operated
>spots, and loom it all up again with self amalgamating tape. This will

Adrian

Don't do it! Self Amalgamating Tape is the work of Beelzebub.
Most types (though not all) suffer the same problems as the
ubiquitous insulting tape - get it near oil, petrol or heat and
it will turn into black goo that sticks everything to everything else.
It's worse than insulting tape because you'll have problems cutting it
off when it's gone soft and squidgy - it will manage to gum up even a
razor blade!

Spira-wrap type products are the way to go, or the split sided flexible
conduit is even better. Both are available from your local electronics 
supplier, RS type place.

Good luck with the wiring!

Dave

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From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 07:45:41 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Looming up...

On Mon, 22 Mar 1999, Tom Murkin wrote:
.> Subject: Re: Looming up...
.>
.> >There is a proper binding tape for this that is NOT sticky. Then use a tie
.> Again, where can I get this from? Presumably this is the stuff that is used
.> originally?
.>
i had heard this when i wrapped up my harness 5 years ago.
but i couldn't find the non-sticky stuff.  relied on a tip to
avoid the cheap stuff and stay with a quality brand.  
mechanic-types said if i used a quality brand -- "scotch" 
was specified -- that it wouldn't be a problem.  and it 
hasn't for 5 years.

Sincerely,

Ray Harder 

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From: "Rich" <rich@llanthony.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 14:59:30 -0000
Subject: RE: parking

> How do thay measure this height? If just the clearance between
> the floor and roof then on one of the inclines I'm likely to severely
> dent my roof ... I wonder if it measured for a given wheelbase ...?

I have taken the SII into some car parks (when pushed) where it just knocks
the warning barrier, but the most damage I have done is "knock" a couple of
lights on the ceiling <g>

I definitely wouldn't do the same in a LWB

> Needless to say, I haven't risked it yet - I'm not sure what their
> insurance cover is like!

Only one way to find out ;-)

Cheers
Rich

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From: Matthew Wild <wild@wdcc1.bnsc.rl.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 15:20:45 GMT
Subject: RE: parking

> I have taken the SII into some car parks (when pushed) where it just knocks
> the warning barrier, but the most damage I have done is "knock" a couple of
> lights on the ceiling <g>
> I definitely wouldn't do the same in a LWB

I've driven my old 109 through the exit of a multi-storey to make sure we could 
get in. Unfortunately I forgot about the amber beacon on the back which got 
knocked off when we went up the ramp. Luckily it was a mag mount, but it 
definitely scared the people paying at the machine at the bottom of the ramp :-)

I also took the 109 into the local dump after they had changed the height of 
the 
fixed barrier and got stuck half way through :-( They've finally accepted that 
people will need to use the liftable barrier and have put up a note asking that 
you at least put it back down after passing through.

I'm a bit more careful with the 110 as it's worth a bit more!

The nearest Park & Ride in Oxford has also had low barriers put in at the new 
entrance which means I have to go in via the old entrance - until they get 
round 
to closing it. Then it's start looking for parking in the centre of Oxford - 
and 
all those car users keep using the open air bit of the multi-storey in the 
centre.

Matthew

-- 
Matthew Wild
M.Wild@rl.ac.uk                    URL http://www.wdc.rl.ac.uk/

110 LandRover CSW V8 EFi, 1983, Green & Creme

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From: "Gareth Evans" <g.d.evans@talk21.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 17:15:10 -0000
Subject: PTO

The PTO unit in question provides a flange at the rear of the transfer case
pointing backwards.
It has a lever for engaging it and i presume all 4 gears can be used to
provide different speeds. I cannot see how this can drive a forward mounted
pump.

If the water pump fits on the front what do i need. A fire engine pump
sounds a little powerful for my requirements. I only need it to pump water
from a trough situated in a field ( no electricity ) to 3 other troughs.
Used for lubricating horses.

The distance is about 100 yds.

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From: Marijn van der Himst <marijn@multiweb.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 19:04:15 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Looming Up

 (From: Adrian Redmond)
--I have washed and cleaned all wires with oil remover, paint thinners,
--swarfega, and soapy water,...

 Adrian,
 This here know-better has a little word of warning:
 All that stuff you used might well influence the isolation properties
 of the wiring in a negative way, if it were an aeroplane you were working
 on, I certainly would not go flying with it...

It's a job like this which really demonstrates how useless the LR wiring
diagram is - I have decided to draw a new one, laid out like the loom
instead of the schematic format. Nice job for a rainy day when I have
nothing else to do.

 Having the very same thoughts!

 Cheers,

 Marijn.

 SIII 109'FFR
 Long&Green, donnow where it's been..
 Member of EMLRA & LRCH

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From: "Andy Phillips" <thewibbler@thewibbler.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 19:00:32 -0000
Subject: Car Parks ...
	charset="iso-8859-1"

In Brighton I have found the open car parks to be quite good. On my only
visit there I parked up by the beach front after getting out to compare the
height of my rollcage with that of the goal posts. They have a Land Rover
friendly setup where the goal posts have a concrete block edged in steel
suspended in between them. This was a couple of inches below my height but
its on chains so I just drove through and back again. Passers-by stared as
it made a good noise but all I did was enjoy my evening constitutional and
paint it up again the next morning in Hammerite!

Cheers,

Andy Phillips.

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From: "Rob Smith" <rob@archenland.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 19:28:00 -0000
Subject: RE: Wheelclamps

Having seen the 'gentlemen' concerned I think one might even to be able to
add the cost of hiring a couple of (tame) gorilla....
But it would be fun watching from a (safe) distance :-0

Rob Smith
Mine's the blue 110

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From: Andrew Baker <Andrew_Baker@mitel.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 16:13:17 -0000
Subject: RE: parking

I know it's late in the day, but why would anyone go to all the trouble
of putting up a barrier that may be removed, and a note to ask you to
put it back once you've finished. Ah... Local government, that's the
answer.

Andrew B

>I also took the 109 into the local dump after they had changed the
height of the 
>fixed barrier and got stuck half way through :-( They've finally
accepted that 
>people will need to use the liftable barrier and have put up a note
asking that 
>you at least put it back down after passing through.

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 21:04:31 +0100
Subject: Re: Looming Up

Mavin van der himst wrote:

Adrian,
 This here know-better has a little word of warning:
 All that stuff you used might well influence the isolation properties
 of the wiring in a negative way, if it were an aeroplane you were
working
 on, I certainly would not go flying with it...

If my rover were a plane I would also hesitate to fly in it - but for
many other reasons besides the wiring. The aerodynamics to name but one
thing :-)

My logic is simple - my 23 years old wiring loom has been exposed to
oil, diesel, paint thinners, tarmacadam, acid rain, wax, tectyl, oil
remover, soap, detergent, salt, snow, ice and rain all it's life, all of
which may have affected the insulation properties, a fact which I cannot
establish without first removing the crud and tape and inspecting it.
Therefore the cleaning process. Other than a few old burnt wires, I
found nothing untoward.

But I haven't powered it up yet - tonight's the night for that...

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
      Visit the "Native Experience" website at 
          http://www.channel6.dk/native
Contact the "Native Experience" film unit in Alaska
          telephone   +1 (907) 230 0359
          e-mail      channel6@alaska.net
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

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From: "Wayne Sheppard" <Wayne@sheppardf.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 20:19:02 -0000
Subject: Simpleton :-(
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi all,

This may come across as a stupid question, but, as I have no reputation =
to protect here goes !-)  I am going to fit a rear fog lamp, (Paddocks =
special), to the Slob.  Fitting it isn't the problem but wiring it up =
may be, as the dog has forgotten more about electric's than I know.  My =
thinking is that I should be able to take power from the rear side =
light, so that the fog lamp can't be accidentally switched on without at =
least the side lights being on and then run it through a rocker switch =
in the cab.  Job done, or is it more complicated than I imagine?

I promise if someone will point me in the right direction I swear on all =
I hold dear, (the Slob!) that I won't leave it switched on in clear =
weather !-)

Thanks in advance,

Wayne
SWB IIa Station wagon   a.k.a.   The Slob

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From: "Eric Leuzinger" <eric@solihull64.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 21:23:48 -0000
Subject: Re: What would I expect to pay

Oh at least that....fitted a new box to my SII last week....cost 400 ukp.

More than most reconned boxes, but from a VERY reliable source...and they're
not fussy about the condition of the exchange unit.

Loz

>Dunno abt the engine, but at leats 250 ukp for the box as long as its a
good
>un.
>What do the others think?.
>Best Regards
>Geoff Wilkin

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From: "Eric Leuzinger" <eric@solihull64.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 21:27:40 -0000
Subject: Re: Wheelclamps

I wish!!!

We had loads of difficulty round where my Dad lives with low barriers at the
dump. Used a local paper to get some anti-council feeling going and one or
two of us suggested turning up en masse (that's French that is). Eventually
local council has agreed to open up barrier on a Saturday and a couple of
sites.

Apparently vehicles over 5' 9" are very rare??????

Loz

>In Ashbourne and Uttoxeter (my local area) the only barrier is on the
>council dump and they will swing that out of the way if you are a genuine
>user of the dump.
>Peter Dowson
>S1 80"

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From: "Eric Leuzinger" <eric@solihull64.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 21:30:06 -0000
Subject: Re: Wheelclamps

Alternatively carry a small tin of wheelclamp coloured paint, chip off a
small bit of paint and dab on a spot of the wheelclamp coloured paint.

Then sue the miserable b#####ds for criminal damage.

Loz

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From: "Matthew Reeve & Mel Mauger" <blatchwood@btinternet.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 22:03:13 -0000
Subject: Re: Simpleton :-(

>to protect here goes !-)  I am going to fit a rear fog lamp, (Paddocks =
>special), to the Slob.  Fitting it isn't the problem but wiring it up =

Assuming the original wiring doesn't have a spare circuit running the length
of the vehicle, your best solution is as follows.

Fit the rocker switch into the dashboard (make sure it's capable of carrying
the power of the fog light)

Use the easy to read, even easier to follow circuit diagram for your truck
to find the colour of a wire which passes close to the switch which is live
when your sidelights are on. This will probably be the feed from the
headlight switch which will split and go front and rear at some point.

>From this wire, make a connection (I'm not going to get into the connection
debate, we just had that one) from that wire to the switch.

>From the other side of the switch, run a wire the length of the vehicle,
ensuring it is not too tight at any point, securing to avoid chafing of the
wires and inadvertent trapping. Again, make sure it is rated high enough for
your fog light.

Attach the other end of that wire to the fog light, remembering to use
grommets as the wire passes through panels, and then connect a lead from the
earth of the light to a good earth on the body/chassis (always test your
earth, one of the most common faults with wiring - at least it was for the
PO of my truck).

Then you can enjoy your fog light to your heart's content, but only when
your sidelights are on. I would also suggest using an illuminated rocker
which is positioned so it is clearly visible from your driving position,
that way you are less likely to leave it on inadvertently.

Matthew
UK, nr Heathrow
1979 2-dr Range Rover 300Tdi

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From: "Matthew Reeve & Mel Mauger" <blatchwood@btinternet.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 21:49:54 -0000
Subject: Re: Car Parks ...

>friendly setup where the goal posts have a concrete block edged in steel
>suspended in between them. This was a couple of inches below my height but
>its on chains so I just drove through and back again. Passers-by stared as
>it made a good noise but all I did was enjoy my evening constitutional and
>paint it up again the next morning in Hammerite!

It's surprising how much noise a 6' CB whip antenna can make on the roof of
a multi-storey car park, especially when it goes over the lights, or springs
off the ceiling joints. In fact, the second time I went back, I could see
the scratches in the accumulated smoke marks on the ceiling showing where I
had driven and parked the time before :-)

Matthew
UK, nr Heathrow
1979 2-dr Range Rover 300Tdi

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 01:53:10 +0100
Subject: Looming (2) 109" nears completion

I finished my wiring today, and this time I used the light bulb in
series method to test the entire installation before putting the loom in
contact with big amperes.

(The method for newcomers to this thread is simple - just insert a 12
volt indicator lamp in series between the battery positive and the
positive cable - the lamp completes the circuit, but presents enough
resistance to prevent current being drawn, and if big fauilt loads are
present, the lamp blows like a fuse.)

This method is really great - you can test every circuit in the car,
except the starter and glowplugs - otherwise everything will light up
(though medium loads like headlights - which aren't fitted yet, and the
horn will be "dimmed" because of the series load of the test lamp.

Before doing this I put an ohmmeter with a bleeper in the circuit
instead - no battery connected, just ohmmeter between pos and neg
cables. No faults, no beep. Turn on ignition - slow beep indicates a
load somewhere - remove connectors in fusebox to identify load (beep
stops) and discover that it is the voltage regulator, which when
supplied does draw a minimal load - so no problem. Check each circuit
one at a time.

Then the light bulb in series. This enabled me to have sufficient power
to check all indicator lamps on the panel, plus the lights and indicator
wiring. I was also able to check the wiring on the switches for the
lights.

So instead of cooking/frying the newly cleaned and rebuilt loom, I had
peace of mind. Though it was not without hesitation and fingers off
anything metal (once an electrician always an electrician) that I tunred
on the power (I have inserted a heavy duty marine rotary power switch in
series with the positive lead from the battery to the starter motor, the
switch is in the passenger footwell, with its connections right behind
the bottom of the oil filter - and easy job to insert.).

But no bangs, fizzles, pops or crackles. No special effects this time,
just a working rover electrical system, most of which is not exhorcised
for quirks from the Lucas hall of f(l)ame.

This job is becoming a workload. New galvanised chassis, all steel parts
metalised, Every single piece, except the inside of the motor and
gearbox, has been dismantled, cleaned, painted, and refitted. New bolts
and nuts all round, new bearings, tie rod ends, swivels, hoses, gaskets
and seals all round. All old wiring has been replaced with correct
colours, and all terminals have been replaced. Whilst making the loom I
fed foour extra heavy (2.5mm) wires from the instrument panel to the
front breakfast area for future use - makes fitting extra lights and
toys an easy afternoon's work instead of a tiring botch-up.

The vital organs are still without fluids and lubricants, tomorrow I fit
the new fuel lines, brake lines and exhaust. But I did turn the starter
motor over long enough to check that the glow plugs work and the engine
and gearbox isn't seized up.

My rear axle is completly new - I found it in a crate at my spares
dealer, surplus of the Norwegian army since 1974. Methinks I'd better
pull the hubs just to check the 20-odd year old grease hasn't exported
itself under one too many winters in storage in Oslo or Viborg.

I guess two days work and the mechanics are finished - then still
without wings, bumper, bonnet, tub, doors and roof, I send her to my
mechanic to get the tracking, brakes, clutch and timing set - all ready
for the upcoming MOT. I could do more of this myself but after three
months every night and weekend and many days I'm in a hurry to complete
the job before I fly off to Alaska for a few months again.

Next weekend its sanding and painting all the green bits whilst the
rolling chassis is at the workshop. Painting these bits is so much
easier when they are off the car - less masking tape and a lot less mess
on the rest of the vehicle.

My guess is that, in about a week, I'll have a completly restored 1979
Series III 109". Can't wait... And the next year or two i intend to
spend more time behind the wheel than under the frame.

Happy rovering.

Adrian Redmond

          http://www.channel6.dk/native

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From: JPitcher@sperry-sun.com
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 20:09:22 -0600
Subject: Re:Utter madness

S' funny, that. I got to thinking about all this, and I suddenly realised that
every vehicle I have ever owned (including bicycles), has had to be recovered
off the road by some-one or other, with the notable exception of my Landrover. I
nearly had a wheel fall off 'cos the bearing had collapsed, but I only noticed
that on the driveway. I've had to unblock the jets in the carb every 10 miles
'cos of cr*p in the tank, but I still got home. I've blown a 1/2 shaft, but
switched to 4 w/d and got home. I've never been left stranded! I originally
joined the AA 'cos I was driving an old landrover, which has turned out to be
the one vehicle I haven't needed it for :)

But the wife will never understand,

Jason

1970 Siia
1986 Rangie (recovered)
1994 Triumph Sprint (recovered)

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