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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 08:27:48 +0000
Subject: Re: sob,sob,sob....Daily drive?

 But I'm relaxed and content and they're all hung up and

Its the attitude of mind Frank.They're trying to prove
they are better than the others.We *know* we are....

Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: "Baker, Stuart J" <bakersj@bp.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 11:06:23 +0100
Subject: You were only supposed to put the bloody doors on!

Help
As some of you may recall.  I'm at the end of a 3 year restoration of my
1961 SII SWB.
The last thing to go on before it's MOT is the doors.  I tried to fit these
at the weekend.  Drivers side, no problem (a little tight with the new
rubber seals but otherwise OK).  The passenger side  Aaahhhhhrrrgggg,
there's not physically enough room to close the door.  It appears that
either the top of the bulkhead is leaning back to much, or the back body is
too far forward.  The adjusting bolt for the bulk head pitch is fully
extended, so that the bulk head is as far forward as it will go.  The back
body is obviously restricted by the securings on the chassis.  What on earth
can I do.  She looks so great and I'm desperate to get her road legal.  Any
advise appreciated.

Stuart
1961 SII Big and Yella

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From: Dave Ladell <ladell@proasisn.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 11:13:26 +0100
Subject: S3 wiper auto-park

The wipers on my Lwt are not stopping when I turn the switch off.  I know
this is caused by the auto-park switch not working properly.  I haven't got
time to replace it (or the inclination to spend the 11 gbp that I was
quoted for a new one) so I'm going to bypass the autopark switch.  Before I
go grabbing wiring diagrams does anyone know how to do this.  I'm happy to
turn the wipers off and have them just stop for the time being.

Cheers,

Dave Ladell  
'75 Lightweight 2.5TD 
nr. Buxton, Derbyshire, UK

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From: Andrew Baker <Andrew_Baker@mitel.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 11:23:24 +0100
Subject: RE: You were only supposed to put the bloody doors on!

I'm trying to remember what holds the bulkhead upright? it's only the
wings and the steering column isn't it, have you tried loosening these
to try and push it upright.
I would have thought that if the body is too far forward the windscreen
would have pushed the bulkhead forward?

Has it had a new chassis?

Andrew B

>It appears that either the top of the bulkhead is leaning back to much,
>or the back body is too far forward.  

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From: Orlando_Scott-Cowley@watsonwyatt.co.uk
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 11:22:21 +0100
Subject: Re: S3 wiper auto-park

>I'm happy to turn the wipers off and have them just stop for the time being.

Take the wiper arm of the spindle!!!

Quick and simple.. if not illegal to be driving without working wipers.

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From: "Rich" <rich@llanthony.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 12:18:57 +0100
Subject: RE: You were only supposed to put the bloody doors on!

> The adjusting bolt for the bulk head pitch

erm - I didn't realise there was one!! Where about is it as it could be
handy for mine. ISTR when I rebuilt mine (SIIa) the bulkhead just bolted on
with two large bolts....

[thinks: this is the front bulkhead?]

> What on earth can I do.

Take the doors and roof off and have an open top <g>

Cheers
Rich

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From: "Tim Burt" <tim@muddyweb.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 12:28:03 +0100
Subject: Wheel Offset

Anyone know what difference (if any) there is in wheel offset between Range
Rover Rostyles and Series LWB rims ?

I don't necessarily need figures (although that would be helpful) just some
indication of which is deeper.

Cheers,

Tim Burt
www.muddyweb.co.uk

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From: "Baker, Stuart J" <bakersj@bp.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 12:41:00 +0100
Subject: RE:You were only supposed to put the bloody doors on!

Perhaps I should have said in my earlier note.  I have no top on
(convertible!), so the windscreen is not fixed at the top.

Cheers

Stuart
1961 SII Big and Yella

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From: "Peter Dowson" <Peter.Dowson@softwareag.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 12:42:37 +0100
Subject: Re: You were only supposed to put the bloody doors on!

I've no direct experience with the later Landrovers but on my 80" there are
six bolts that hold the bulkhead on. The two that fasten to the outriggers
don't really do much for the slope of the bulkhead but the four (two either
side) that bolt through the main chassis legs are the one that can alter
this. What I did was :-

Slacken off all these bolts.
Position a scissor jack and suitable timber between bulkhead and rear body.
Hang the doors.
Adjust jack until doors fit with some to spare.
Tighten the bolts
Remove jack.
Check door gaps.

Peter Dowson
S1 80"

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From: "Peter Howard" <rover@mrbean.net.au>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 21:50:06 +1000
Subject: RE:You were only supposed to put the bloody doors on!

Andrew,
IS it the original chassis or the original rear body? I had exactly the same
trouble with my '68 LWB rebuild. Chassis was from '68 LR, bulkhead was from
'64, rear body and doors were from '70. Guess what, the b***** door openings
were about 1/4" too short for the doors. Hell and damnation! Problem was
solved however.
You know how the little tabs on top of the rear crossmember bolt to the
outside of the rear body panels? Well, I put my little tabs on the INSIDE of
the body panels, thereby gaining the needed 1/4" of rearward movement of
body. The galvo door sill members had slotted boltholes to permit this sort
of adjustment. The  tabs on forward outriggers are long enough to bend
nicely into contact with where they're supposed to go.
Was this a butcherous bodge? Yes,  but I was desperate to go driving after
two years (like you) and it was all I could think of.
I did make up some fake tabs to go under bolt heads on outside of panels,
otherwise another LR owner driving behind me would have been muttering "That
half-wit has got his rear tub the wrong side of the crossmember tabs."
You may view the vehicle in question at www.mrbean.net.au/~rover
Cheers, and let us all know how you get on,
Peter H
Mackay
Queensland
Australia.

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From: "Peter Howard" <rover@mrbean.net.au>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 21:54:58 +1000
Subject: RE: You were only supposed to put the bloody doors on!
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Sorry, it was Stuart not Andrew who had the door fit problem. For =
Andrew, read Stuart, in my reply.
Cheers,
Peter H.
Mackay
Queensland
Australia

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From: "James D. Tyler" <em95jdt@brunel.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 12:42:09 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Re: S3 wiper auto-park

On Mon, 29 Mar 1999 11:13:26 +0100 Dave Ladell wrote:

The wipers on my Lwt are not stopping when I turn the switch off.  I 
know this is caused by the auto-park switch not working properly.  I 
haven't got time to replace it (or the inclination to spend the 11 gbp that 
I was quoted for a new one) so I'm going to bypass the autopark switch.  
Before I go grabbing wiring diagrams does anyone know how to do this.  I'm 
happy to turn the wipers off and have them just stop for the time being.
  
Okay Dave, 

You are going to need to find a two position (on-on) switch  -  an on/off 
is no good.  Use this to select ground (-ve) or permanent +ve feed, then 
connect the common to the wiper motor feed instead of the auto-park switch.

This means that you can stop the wipers by your switch (shorting the motor 
coils to -ve provides braking).
If you try an on/off switch, the motor will ramp down after you switch the 
feed off, so the wipers will be impossible to park.

You should be able to do what you want to do using the existing wiper 
switch, as AFAIK the switch selects -ve/+ve  -  just connect straight to 
the motor feed wire.  Just check that the existing switched supply is 
ground (NOT FLOATING) when the switch is off.

110 V8 County  VRRRRRRRRRRM, VRRRRRRRRRM 

                 "STIG"
            (James D. Tyler)
          em95jdt@brunel.ac.uk

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From: "Kevin Balch" <kevin@worldhq.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 19:02:40 +0100
Subject: RE door fitting

The fishplates that secure the rear tub to the chassis can be "adjusted" to
ensure reasonable door fit if you use a hammer to trim their location. :-) 
or what about a jigsaw applied to the door .

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From: "Kevin Balch" <kevin@worldhq.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 19:09:26 +0100
Subject: Re -auto park wipers

Dave auto park wiper motors have a permenant live supply and a switched live
supply . So if you isolate the permenant live from the motor then the switch
will have absolute control. hope this helps.

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From: "Andy Phillips" <thewibbler@thewibbler.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 19:23:32 +0100
Subject: Re: sob,sob,sob....Daily drive?
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Yep, its the only way to travel over any distance where there's heavy
traffic. I find that on my commute to Birmingham and back each day from
Newbury I make the same time in the company car as I did on the few times I
used the 90TD. Its 166 miles there and back and I don't have a CD player in
the company car either!

Andy Phillips
Technical Consultant, Axias Ltd
Tel:     +44 1926 422210
Fax:    +44 1926 886225
Mob:   +44 7771 656718
Email: phillips@axias.com
Web:   http://www.axias.com

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 20:21:40 +0100
Subject: Re: S3 wiper auto-park

whenever self parking stops on any of my motors I just turn them off when
they're in the parked position., simple (oh yes I am)
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 20:24:16 +0100
Subject: Re: Wheel Offset

dunno if there's a difference in offset but there is a difference in the
middle 'ole. Rostyles won't fit over Ser hubs....
I have seen some cut away but a: looks 'orrible and b: would need doing very
very carefully....
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: Keir Hague <keir@whaleyb.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 21:10:47 +0100
Subject: Series 3 exhausts.

Dear all,

My X reg Series 3 is just about ready for a new exhaust (what with me
bashing it on rocks too many times).  One thing though, it comes out
from the left hand side, rather than the normal right.  Is this some
kind of mod, or does it have a f*rd fiest* exhaust on it by mistake?
Also, every time I go off road in it, I seem to hit the down pipe on a
rock, damaging the flange on the manifold.  Is there any way to lift the
down pipe up out of the way?

Many thanks
-- 
Keir Hague
BADLRC
Deep Bronze Green (with pink bits)!

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From: "Tim Burt" <tim@muddyweb.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 22:36:13 +0100
Subject: Re: Series 3 exhausts.

> One thing though, it comes out
>from the left hand side, rather than the normal right.  Is this some
>kind of mod, or does it have a f*rd fiest* exhaust on it by mistake?

It's not really a mistake.   There are two different rear sections available
:  One has a pipe on each end of the silencer  the other has both pipes in
one end of the silencer.    The former is for RHD vehicles, the latter is
for LHD vehicles.

I have seen both for sale in the UK, although the offside exit is the
approved one.

Cheers,

Tim Burt
www.muddyweb.co.uk

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From: "Matthew Reeve & Mel Mauger" <blatchwood@btinternet.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 19:04:42 +0100
Subject: Re: Up and running!

>After three months rebuild I finally finished assembling the 109" this
>weekend. I spent yesterday night filling all the holes with oil, grease,
>water, fuel, clutch fluid, and left it to stand overnight on a clean
>floor.

>This morning - not a drop of fluid on the floor. Could not believe my
>eyes.

>Adrian Redmond

Well there you have it Adrian, proof that you've put it back together wrong
:-))

Matthew
UK, nr Heathrow
1979 2-dr Range Rover 300Tdi

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From: "Clive Taylor" <clive@tcns.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 23:17:24 +0100
Subject: Re: sob,sob,sob....Daily drive?

>>Yes but if it is a V8 it is sheer pleasure......

S'funny you should say that. On the weekend I listened to the wife driving
off in the Rangie (Rimmer Bros sports exhaust and Kenlowe fan). Sounded like
a TVR. Wonderful V8 noise.

I drove the (2.5 N/A Diesel) lightweight to the local dump, roof off (still
couldn't fit - glad to have taken a wheelbarrow).

Not quite the same sound (or (rather too) high speed performance). Glad the
whole household's LR though (son 12, daughter 10 both have Genuine Parts
posters on the walls of their bedrooms).

Clive

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 02:03:28 +0200
Subject: Re: Series 3 exhausts.

Kieth wrote:
Also, every time I go off road in it, I seem to hit the down pipe on a
 rock, damaging the flange on the manifold.  Is there any way to lift
the
down pipe up out of the way?

----
Yes Kieth - pump some air into the tyres, that should lift it up off the
road a little!

:-)

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
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e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
      Visit the "Native Experience" website at 
          http://www.channel6.dk/native
Contact the "Native Experience" film unit in Alaska
          telephone   +1 (907) 230 0359
          e-mail      channel6@alaska.net
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

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From: JPitcher@sperry-sun.com
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 19:01:57 -0600
Subject: Re:Up and running!

Congratulations, Adrian.
As you'll have loads of free time on your hands now, when can I drop mine off :)
(and I don't mean the rangie!)

Jason

1970 Siia 
1986 Overfinch Rangie

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From: "Geoff Wilkin" <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 08:37:06 +0100
Subject: Re: Corrosion problems?

A couple of 16 year olds WOULD be fine... only problem is at 46years old, It
would be 30 years too late!..  :-))

Geoff

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From: "Geoff Wilkin" <geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 08:48:34 +0100
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_Paint_=28was_A=A7=A7hole=29?=

Absolutely. Thats what I like about the list, Its SO freindly. OK on the
jibing etc etc. If you reduced the 80% jibing, the list would almost cease
to exist and have no humour at all. At least we are not all calling each
other a§§holes or F***wits etc. (I agree)

I can understand how to use / get cowdung onto the swives, but does anyone
use goosefat on their swivels?....
If so, how does it compare?.

Best Regards
Geoff Wilkin

This note is copyright of Geoff Wilkin and should not be published
elsewhere in whole or part without the strict agreement of the author.

EMail      geoff.wilkin@btinternet.com
Homepage - http://www.btinternet.com/~geoff.wilkin - (Site REVAMPED 18 Sept
'97)
All views expressed are my own and are no-one elses! (or so I am told).

'84 110 CSW - Green & Clean
'73 Lightweight V6 - All in bits

.> Many consider Frank a tad funny about colours.
.> And no-one can agree on whether to use oil, grease, goosefat or cowdung
.> in their swivels.
.> We usually manage all this disagreement and friendly jibing without
.> having to resort the words like jerk, a§§hole, idiot or Jeep.

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From: Orlando_Scott-Cowley@watsonwyatt.co.uk
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 08:58:02 +0100
Subject: Re: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_Paint_=28was_A=A7=A7hole=29?=

>I can understand how to use / get cowdung onto the swives, but does anyone use 
>goosefat on their swivels?....
>If so, how does it compare?.

I've tried goosefat in the past, it tends to break down at high temps, so if you
have the teeniest weeniest rust spot on your swives in leaks out. Pig fat is 
marginally better.

You might like to try Anchor butter mixed with a dash of fairy liquid and a 
smidgen (sp.) of Worcester sauce.... I've found this mix to be best, not only 
does it keep things clean, it gives that little bit of cohesion at high temps.

lol.
Orlando

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