The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 09:04:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Heater blower mystery

Yep   I tried that, made zero difference except I had 4 more holes in the
fender when the thing got ripped off by a little twig.
John and Muddy

Steve Rochna wrote:

> replaced by a parts store version of the same thing with some mods to the
> shaft diameter but otherwise it blows great.  The flow is pretty much the
> same when driving with either no wind or a direct headwind.  When the wind
> comes from the side with the intake the flow is great and opposite when the
> flow comes from the other side.  I've been thinking of putting a small
> cloths dryer type scoop on the wing temporarily to see what difference it
> would make.  Has anyone tried this?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> would make.  Has anyone tried this?
> Steve

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 09:08:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Hyd Winches

Bill Fishel wrote:

> Thanks to everyone who responded to my req.
> Sandy brought up a point I hadn't considered about
> loosing the pump if the clutch is depressed on a
> PTO driven pump.
> I'm looking into the belt driven pump with an electric
> clutch. Have to figure out a way of mounting it after I
> locate one.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> Wonder if a hydraulic driven snowblower will work
> from one?

A land Rover sized snow blower takes too much horsepower to be driven by a
front mounted belt driven hydraulic system.
John and Muddy

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 09:15:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Series III bulkhead stripped of plastic bits...

John wrote:

> Anybody try this?
> Does it expose a bunch of sharp metal edges?
> I am thinking of doing this.  I am willing to lose the storage tray and
> would prefer to run Series II style heat/vent pipes.  The instrument
> cluster might be tricky?
> John

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> cluster might be tricky?
> John

Tom Tolefson from the Toronto area did this some years ago. There were no
sharp bits that I can recall. He made his own instrument cluster. It looked
very strange but each to his own.
John and Muddy

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From: "T.D.I.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 13:54:49 -0000
Subject: Re: Leaking front wheel hubs

>But wait a minute this stuff on my finger doesn't smell of 80/90 weight
oil,
>it smells of...and then I realize that my Rover hasn't marked it's
territory
>at all - the client's beast of a dog has marked it's territory on my Rover.

Good story. It reminds me of the dim and distant past when I was in the
Scouts. Each summer, the whole troop would spend two weeks camping in
various remote locations in Scotland. Toilet facilities on these camps were
of the thunderbox type, consisting of a deep pit with a long wooden box
(with appropriate holes) over the top. The pits had to be limed and the
boxes scrupulously scrubbed and cleaned every morning, prior to inspection
by the Scout Leader.
On one memorable day, our patrol was on jankers. My patrol leader had
obtained a quantity of peanut butter which he dotted liberally over the box
seat. On discovering this during his inspection, Skip summoned our patrol to
the bog tent, and swept back the curtain.
"What," he demanded, "is this?"
Quick as a flash, our PL stepped in, dipped his finger in one of the blobs
and put it in his mouth.
"Tastes like shit, Sir!"

Tom Stevenson
University Marine Biological Station, Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel: 01475 530581  Fax: 01475 530601  Email: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
Web page: http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine/

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From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 08:22:46 -0600 (CST)
Subject: removing sprayed-on foam SPOTS...

one of the SPOTs on my lately-acquired 67-88-siia is
spray-in foam lining in the cab and certain areas
on the bottom of the rig.  i feel they did
that to try to improve winter cab comfort level.
they certainly didn't do it for looks.

i want to take that off.

my plan is to:  scrape with wood chisel or putty knife;
pull off chunks (foam is 10 years old and deterioating);
maybe lightly sand with electric sander; attack with
acetone or laquer thinner (keeping an eye on the factory
paint); whatever...

anybody got any proven methods to remove 
sprayed-on-insulation foam?

Sincerely,

Ray Harder 

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From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 09:40:14 -0500
Subject: RE: Rubber Shock Bushings

Try using appropriate sized rubber hose(s), w/id sized for the hardware, and
w/od sized for the stock LR bushings.  The washers will hold it all in
place.

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From: "BROWN DAVID E (DAVE)" <debrown@srp.gov>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 07:37:22 -0700
Subject: Missing on cylinders #1 and #3
	charset="iso-8859-1"

	>From: "Hank Rutherford" <ruthrfrd@borg.com>
	>...I found that some bugger had drilled a heat shield bolt hole
	>thru into the inlet runner of #3 & 4. Since there was no heat
shield
	>installed, the result was a direct inlet leak directly across from
#3 port.
	<#4 was affected also but to a lesser extent. Have a look, the holes
should
	>be blind.

	>From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
	>Are you sure that you do not have an inlet manifold air leak? This
can be
	>caused by.a cracked phenolic block under the carb, a unblocked heat
shield
	>mounting hole or even a broken distributor diaphram. You might also
check
	>that the adjusting screws on the valves are not touching the rocker
cover.
	>This sometimes happens when going to the higher compression head
but I
	>think you would hear it and it would show up on the compression
test. I'm
	>interested to hear others ideas. Ray.

Boy! I really thought you were on to something here... I rushed home after
reading this from the digests (I am WAY behind in my LR reading) and didn't
even change from my work (office) clothes to fill the heat shield holes with
silicone. But alas, it still didn't help. 

I had already tried the dial indicator, and found that all the valves move
approximately the same amount, so I think the cam is OK. Ray Wood suggested
a cracked phenolic block under the carb, a unblocked heat shield mounting
hole or even a broken distributor diaphram. I'm not sure what the phenolic
block is, but I used silicone on the top and bottom of the piece under the
Weber carburetor, and a casual inspection of this piece didn't reveal any
cracks (though I wasn't specifically looking for one there at the time.) The
distributor diaphram is also OK. I looked at all the followers before I
installed the rebuilt head, and they all looked OK. (As far as I could
tell.)

The valves are not hitting the valve cover, as it does the same thing with
the cover off. When I first reported this, I thought it was only the #3
cylinder, but it is ALSO the #1 cylinder. These two are right next to each
other on the distributor, coincidence??? I don't know??? 

Any other suggestions? I have "heard" that a new distributor can be found
for around $60 or so, from an Austin mini or something??? My local parts
stores don't list one for a LR. Do you know what "car" distributor works for
a LR? How about a part number?

I am thinking about taking it to a shop where they have a scope that they
can put it on to analyze the ignition, do you think this is a good idea, or
should I pop the $60 for a new distributor first and see what that does? My
wife is very patient with me and the LR's, but with two LR's broken and an
Acura with over 180,000 miles on it that is leaking FAR worse than ALL my
LR's EVER did (and breaking down frequently) I fear that she may lose
patience with me and my LR's. - PLEASE HELP with any other ideas!

	Thank you
Dave Brown,  <http://www.srp.gov/> AM/FM
Phone:  602-236-3544  Fax:  602-236-2303
Hours: 7:00 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. Mon-Thurs  AWW: Off Fridays
E-mail:   <mailto:debrown@srp.gov> debrown@srp.gov

	

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 99 10:03:34 -0500
Subject: Re: removing sprayed-on foam SPOTS... 

>anybody got any proven methods to remove 
>sprayed-on-insulation foam?

hmmm...never had to do it, thank gawd. try slicing it off with a hot or very 
sharp (or both) wire where you can. the lacquer thinner would certainly take 
care of whatever's left.
sorry that you got stuck with such a nasty spot. a friend here has an 88 whose 
firewall, floorboards, rear tub, and seatbox are covered with 1/2" cork which 
is decaying nicely, just like the rest of the vehicle. did a fantastic job of 
soaking up water and rusting out everythin underneath it. Bought it off this 
list I believe too....SPO, own up!

later
dave

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 99 10:07:04 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Pieces parts 

 

>Hmmm?, could someone please refresh my memory on the concept of "cheap" 
>Thanks.

look in the Thesaurus under "Land Rover Owners" :)
Seriously, shipping won't kill you on the hardware. Good luck finding it all in 
the US. It is possible but it aint gonna be easy, unless maybe you get a hosed 
motor for spares...or call ROvers north and then REALLY discover the meaning of 
cheap.

later
dave

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From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 15:12:38 +0000
Subject: Re: Series III bulkhead stripped of plastic bits...

John wrote:
> Anybody try this?

I have some pictures of my Series III bulkhead when I did the galvo
chassis rebuild.
The url:

http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/LWBrst/LWBrst0004.html

shows 9 pictures, clicking on any of them brings up a larger version,
this is page 4 of 7, there are more pics of the bulkhead on the next
page.

I just replaced the plastic bits as they were originally, more or less!

La Salle do dashboards as well;
http://freespace.virgin.net/lasalle.trim/g.html
is their web page.
Hope this helps!

Mick Forster
1972 109" Safari 2.25 petrol
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/LWBrst/LWBrst.html
http://members.aol.com/IssyJames/LRlinks/LRlinks.htm

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 99 10:20:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Missing on cylinders #1 and #3 

>. - PLEASE HELP with any other ideas!

david
if you have already replaced the capt/rotor/points/plug/wires, then perhaps 
you've got the distributor wired up wrong. If you had the firing order wrong 
and the #1 flipped around, who knows what could happen. also spin the motor by 
hand with the dist. cap off and make sure the rotor isn't hitting anything 
inside the distributor. 

later
dave

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 08:25:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Rubber Shock Bushings

What are the dimensions?

BSharp4601@aol.com wrote:
> Anybody have a generic source for rubber shock bushings?
> I'm running Rancho 9000's and the crappy little poly bushes that come with
> them are driving me NUTS!  They're just too hard to live with.

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 10:40:31 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Pieces parts 

On Mon, 11 Jan 1999, David R. Bobeck wrote:
:Seriously, shipping won't kill you on the hardware. Good luck finding it all 
in 
:the US. It is possible but it aint gonna be easy, unless maybe you get a hosed 

We were talking about plain old BS and BSF stuff?  A year or so ago, I
talked to a local hardware place whose customer base is mostly industrial
and commerical users.  They were pretty sure that they could get anything
I wanted, but the mininium order was several hundred pieces of each size.

David

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 99 10:54:39 -0500
Subject: Re[4]: Pieces parts  

>  They were pretty sure that they could get anything I wanted, but the 
>mininium order was several hundred pieces of each size.

so what is the point? 
1. they were "pretty sure". of course they were. You are always "pretty sure" 
when you talk to customers.

2. several hundred? silly, at least for oddball engine bits which you only need 
a few of.

3. call LR fasteners, before its too late, i.e, pub time...only an hour to go 
:)

cheers
DAV3

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 08:52:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Pieces parts

Bill, I called around in Denver and one company said that they sold
their supply of BS and Whitworth to an import car place called Kats.
(303) 730-0877. They might be a bit on the pricey side or so I've heard,
but the guy said that they do have them. He would need the size, length
and thread type (BS or Whit) in order to help you. Good luck.

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

David R. Bobeck wrote:

> Seriously, shipping won't kill you on the hardware. Good luck finding it all 
in
> the US. It is possible but it aint gonna be easy, unless maybe you get a hosed
> motor for spares...or call ROvers north and then REALLY discover the meaning 
of
> cheap.

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From: nlamon1@tiger.lsuiss.ocs.lsu.edu, lsu.edu@tiger.lsuiss.ocs.lsu.edu
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 10:18:54 -0600
Subject: Has anyone installed heated windscreen glass in their vehicle (II-A)?

I'm thinking of dedicating ALL of what little heat my SII-A's anemic  
heater produces to warming ME, by installing heated front glass and
removing the demister system.  Besides putting more hot air on the
occupants, it would have the added benifit of uncluttering the dash of all
that ducting and screwed on tin.

Has anyone on this List first-hand experience with this modification?   If
so, I'd appreciate your input, as heated glass ain't cheap!

Sincerely,

Neil Lamont

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 12:57:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Has anyone installed heated windscreen glass in their vehicle 

nlamon1@tiger.lsuiss.ocs.lsu.edu, lsu.edu@tiger.lsuiss.ocs.lsu.edu wrote:

> I'm thinking of dedicating ALL of what little heat my SII-A's anemic
> heater produces to warming ME, by installing heated front glass and
> removing the demister system.  Besides putting more hot air on the
> occupants, it would have the added benifit of uncluttering the dash of all
> that ducting and screwed on tin.
> Has anyone on this List first-hand experience with this modification?   If
> so, I'd appreciate your input, as heated glass ain't cheap!
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> Sincerely,
> Neil Lamont

It should work OK if your charging system is up to the extra load. It might be
cheaper to upgrade your heater unless you need new glass anyway.
John and Muddy

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 09:05:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Has anyone installed heated windscreen glass in their vehicle 
(II-A)?

Neil the heated window is useful but I think you will you will still need
the air demister as the glass is pretty slow to warm up on cold days. Ray

----------
> From: nlamon1@tiger.lsuiss.ocs.lsu.edu; lsu.edu@tiger.lsuiss.ocs.lsu.edu
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Has anyone installed heated windscreen glass in their vehicle
(II-A)?
> Date: Monday, January 11, 1999 8:18 AM
> I'm thinking of dedicating ALL of what little heat my SII-A's anemic  
> heater produces to warming ME, by installing heated front glass and
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> removing the demister system.  Besides putting more hot air on the
> occupants, it would have the added benifit of uncluttering the dash of
all
> that ducting and screwed on tin.
> Has anyone on this List first-hand experience with this modification?  
> Subject: Has anyone installed heated windscreen glass in their vehicle
If

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From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 11:59:56 -0500
Subject: Brit Fasteners & Tools

Try these US sources I pulled off the WEB:

Gardner-Westcott:  http://www.gardner-westcott.com
Fax your sizes and needs to: 248-305-5110

British Only:  http://www.british-only.com

British USA (Texas)
713-944-7951

British Tool Company
Robb Nortier709 Marietta NE
Grand Rapids, MI  49505
(616) 363-6666
rnortier@iserv.net

British Tools and Fasteners
Phillip Brown2030 Andre Avenue
Los Osos, CA 93402 USA
(805) 528-0418FAX: (805) 528-0358
boltnut@ix.netcom.com
[spamkill: [cC]yber[^pcu][^ios][^rt][^yt] input: %s]	 
http://www.mrcybermall.com/machine_tool_parts/

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 09:12:31 -0800
Subject: Waving (was American Safari)

From: Henry Cole Stage III <wxgage@erols.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 11:01:17 -0500
Subject: An American Safari

>So what is it with other rover owners?  I waved at every landy I saw.
All discos and RR's. Nobody waved back. Maybe they thought I was an
epileptic idiot or something.  Also stopped at a Rover dealership in San
Diego to look at two Defenders on the lot.  I could not get the time of
day from them. 

99.999 percent of Range Rover and Discovery owners have no idea of Land Rover's 
history or what a Series Land Rover even is.  I suspect the same is true of 
most of the people who work at the Land Rover dealerships.  I had one Range 
Rover owner come up to me at a gas station a few years ago as I was fueling our 
own 
Range Rover and tell me how impressed he was that a car company that had been 
in business only since 1987 (the first year Range Rovers were commercially 
imported to the US) could create such a great vehicle in so short a time.  He 
was absolutely amazed, and I don't think he even believed me, when I told him 
that the Land Rover division of Rover had been making vehicles since 1947.  I 
suspect he also did not believe me when I told him that the Range Rover had 
been 
designed in 1968-69 and had first gone on sale in 1970, and that the design 
(this incident occurred before the new Range Rover had come out) had remained 
basically unchanged since then.

If you are into waving at other vehicles, you will sometimes get a wave from a 
Defender owner, but almost never will you get one from a Range Rover or 
Discovery owner, most of whom are women (in our area anyway) and who are 
probably not at all interested in vehicle lineage.  I am not a "wave 
initiator," but 
when I'm driving my Series III, I always get a wave from any Series drivers I 
happen to meet.  I can only recall having one Range Rover owner, a guy, give me 
a 
wave as we passed.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 09:22:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Heater blower mystery

From: daveb <davebobeck@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 16:23:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Heater blower mystery

Marin Faure wrote:
> >The advantage of the side intake is that it will not scoop in bugs,
>dirt, stones thrown up by the person in front of you, etc. that  
>happen to
>blow by in the slipstream.

>Yes it and it also will do an excellent job of pumping stream water up
through the dashbox if you should get the vehicle over on its passenger
side in deep enough water. Would probably work while upright too...
BTDT, (got the wet t-shirt)

One would hope that the driver would have the intelligence to not run the 
heater while fording somethng that was that deep.  And if the vehicle fell over 
onto 
its side while crossing a stream, I doubt the primary concern of the occupants 
would be heating the interior... :-) In any event, I suspect the type of 
squirrel cage fan used in the Land Rover's heater would not do a very good job 
of sending very much solid water very far.  It would probably just stall under 
the load (assuming the motor didn't short out first).

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 12:21:01 EST
Subject: Re: Pieces parts--British Metrics

Sorry for weighing in a little late on this:

There is a company called British Metrics in Westminster, MD  1-800-762-5134
which stocks an ungodly number of BA, BSP, BSF, BSW, Whitworth and Metric for
everything thing I have ever seen--
Nuts, bolts, flexlines, conduit, O-rings, Rubber seals, leather seals,
circlips, axle seals, speedisleeves, pipe fittings, crown and pinion gears,
spider gears, sprockets, roller chain, wrenches,sockets

Their warehouse is unbelievable.  I had to locate their catalog to find the
tele number.

Nate

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 12:22:31 EST
Subject: British Metrics website

Forgot this:

www.britishmetrics.com

Sorry 'bout that

Nate

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 09:40:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Pieces parts

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 23:50:11 EST
Subject: Re: Pieces parts

In a message dated 99-01-10 16:45:21 EST, you write:

<< I'm sure shi[ping for this amount of stuff from the UK will be nice
 and cheap >>

>Hmmm?, could someone please refresh my memory on the concept of "cheap"
Thanks.

Over the years I've had several accessories and components for my Series III 
and Range Rover that were unavailable in the US shipped over from the UK.  In 
each 
case, the shipping cost was astronomical, even by slow boat via China.  In one 
case I had a pair of custom-made suspension bushings shipped over.  The 
bushings 
cost me UKP45, the shipping was UKP90.  And it's no better going the other way: 
we've shipped some books, catalogs, etc. to our friends in the UK over the 
years, and the cost, even by surface mail, has always been extremely high. 

I make several trips each year to the UK, so I have started bringing stuff home 
with me rather than have it shipped.  In 1994, for example, I wanted to get a 
set of heavy rubber floor mats for the Range Rover.  These items were 
unavailable in the US at the time; while the rubber mats were listed in the US 
accessory 
catalog, in reality the dealers carried only the carpet floor mats.  While my 
wife and I were in London we visited the HR Owen Rolls 
Royce/Bentley/Ferrari/TVR/Land Rover dealship just down the road from our 
hotel.  They sold me a complete set of heavy duty, fitted rubber mats for about 
UKP30 
.  Shipping them home would have cost almost UKP100, so we just put them in a 
box and carried them on the plane with us.

I recently bought a "Four Wheel Drive Station Wagon" builder's plate from a 
breaker's yard in the UK.  He drilled if off the back of a wrecked 109 SW and 
charged me UKP10.  I was in no hurry for the plate, so I told him to send it 
surface mail.  The postage was about UKP15 even though the plate weighs 
practically nothing.  Go figure....

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 99 10:18:09 -0800
Subject: Re: Has anyone installed heated windscreen glass in their vehicle 
(II-A)?

<SNIP> > installing heated front glass and
<SNIP>
;>Has anyone on this List first-hand experience with this modification?   
If
;>so, I'd appreciate your input, as heated glass ain't cheap!

Yes I made the conversion a couple of years ago.  It works very well on 
light foging but takes a bit longer on the heavy stuff.  On the heavy 
stuff it is faster to put all the output from my Kodiak heater to the 
demister.  On the light stuff the window clears long before my engine 
gets warm enough to turn on the heater.

I had an automotive glass company install the windscreens.  I do not get 
the gunk all over myself and THEY take care of any leaks thatmay appear.

The windscreen has two short wires comong out the corner.  The wires go 
the the outside bottom.  One is a ground wire with a ring connector.  I 
think it is supposed to go to a screw holding down the bottom metal 'L' 
retaining brackets.  I wanted a solid earth and drilled a hole in the 
corner side web and used a screw.  If you do this it is easier to make 
the hole while the windscreen is removed.  The wire is very short and the 
hole should be very close to the corner.

Rover advises using a relay.  You use the switch to activate the solinoid 
of the realy and run the heating power through a fuse then the relay to 
the windows.  Since I demist both windscreens at once I just wires one 
switch & relay to do both sides.

I also added a lamp on the instrument panel to remind me that the 
electric demister is on so I don't run it all the time.

Basically I like it & would do it again.  I got my glass in the UK.  It 
was a lot cheaper than in the US.

Good luck!!

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 10:24:11 -0800
Subject: Zen & the art of valve cover gaskets.

A friend of mine has had his 1969 IIA 88
(http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/suslandy.jpg) for about 10
years and for 10 years, he has never been able to get his valve cover to
seal properly.  

He has tried rubber & cork gaskets, factory torque settings, + & - factory
torque settings, even liquid gasket in desperation.  The valve cover
breathers are clean and un-clogged.  There are new rubber washers on the
bolts.  This weekend he even replaced the valve cover with a spare and new
gasket.  Both covers appear to be un-warped.

And this morning as he pulled into the parking lot here at work, he left a
trail of rainbow oil stains.  The head is again covered in fresh oil.  It's
leaking worse than ever.

Any suggestions?

Paul in Victoria.

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 99 13:00:53 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Pieces parts--British Metrics 

>There is a company called British Metrics in Westminster, MD  1-800-762-5134 

snip
>Their warehouse is unbelievable.  I had to locate their catalog to find the 
>tele number.

hmm. methinks there's gonig to be a run on their catalogs this week. going to 
order mine now. Thanks Nate!

cheers
dave

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 99 13:12:18 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Heater blower mystery 

>One would hope that the driver would have the intelligence to not run the 
>heater hile fording somethng that was that deep. 

oh, you give us way too much credit. if we are stupid enough to drive into it in
the first place, why put anything else past us! :)

> And if the vehicle fell over onto its ide while crossing a stream, I doubt the
>primary concern of the occupants would beheating the interior... :-) 
 
 true. since I was so preoccupied with getting the truck back on its wheels, i 
 chose to ignore the torrent of water pouring out of BOTH lower dash vents. 
 
 >In any event, I suspect the type of squirrel cage fan used in the Land 
Rover's 
>heater would not do a very good job of sending very muc solid water very far.  

I don't know what you mean by solid water but this was fairly clear (and cold) 
running stream water with lots of floating silt from all the activity around 
the truck. After the roll I shut the ignition off, but accidentally turned it 
to the ACC position in which the heater still runs. the blower like I said 
pumped the water up all the way to the drivers side vent. (series III, lower 
dash vent). that means it filled up the whole lower dash. I don't know whether 
I had it set to cab or defrost. this trick did succed in draining the battery, 
but the motor is fine. 

again thanks for the vote of confidence on the intelligence issue.
sorry to "dash" your hopes :)

cheers
dave

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From: "scott wilson" <swilson@spacelab.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 13:35:31 -0500
Subject: RE: Zen & the art of valve cover gaskets.

Any possibility it's not the valve cover, but something 
that's just making it look like it's the valve cover...
getting slung there from somewhere else?

-Scott

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 99 14:16:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Zen & the art of valve cover gaskets. 

>A friend of mine has had his 1969 IIA 88 
>(http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/suslandy.jpg) for about 10 
>years and for 10 years, he has never been able to get his valve cover to 
>seal properly.  

check the selaing surface of the HEAD for flatness. I only got mine to seal 
perfectly once. Right now it has a small leak at the front left and rear right 
corners, and around the holdowns. Perhaps the oil sin't running down into the 
crankcase fast enough???

how bad is it and where does it leak form. What is the arrangement of the 
breathers?

later
dave

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 11:17:15 -0800
Subject: RE: Zen & the art of valve cover gaskets. 

Thanks Dave,  I never thought to check the flow back down through the head.
Maybe too much is pooling under the cover...

Is it worth while cranking the engine over without the cover on (ignition
off) to watch the drain back?  Would it just fling oil everywhere like a
lawn sprinkler ?

Paul in Victoria.

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 09:22:04 -1000
Subject: Re: Missing on cylinders #1 and #3

>to fill the heat shield holes with
>silicone. But alas, it still didn't help.
>but I used silicone on the top and bottom of the piece under the
>Weber carburetor

When looking for a manifold leak, don't start filling up spots with
silicone, cuss you just created a SPOT.  You run the risk of just sucking
the silicone into the leak and into the compression chamber.

Get a can of carb cleaner.  Put the little red straw on the spout and start
spraying around the areas you suspect the leak.  If you have a manifold
vacume leak you *will know* when you hit the right area.
To see what I mean spray a bit in the carb throut.  That stumble is the same
thing that happens if you hit the vacume leak.

Pete

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 14:25:39 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: Zen & the art of valve cover gaskets. 

On Mon, 11 Jan 1999, Paul Quin wrote:

:Thanks Dave,  I never thought to check the flow back down through the head.
:Maybe too much is pooling under the cover...
:
:Is it worth while cranking the engine over without the cover on (ignition
:off) to watch the drain back?  Would it just fling oil everywhere like a
:lawn sprinkler ?
:

You can run the engine with valve cover off.  It doesn't spray that much
oil.  It would certainly tell you if you have a puddleing problem.  It is
also a quick way to check the valve clearances.

DAvid

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From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 14:27:29 -0500
Subject: test...pls ignore

testing...sent several replies but never saw 'em...thus this test

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 99 14:33:17 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Zen & the art of valve cover gaskets.  

>Is it worth while cranking the engine over without the cover on (ignition 
>off) to watch the drain back?  Would it just fling oil everywhere like a 
>lawn sprinkler ?

I've done this, why I'm not sure. eventually it gets messy. at anything above 
idle it would get pretty bad.
you need a perspex valve cover...

cheers
dAV3

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 11:35:32 -0800
Subject: RE: Series III bulkhead stripped of plastic bits...

I know that Wise Owl is advertising a complete IIA instrument cluster on
their used parts web page...might be the easy way to go.

Paul in Victoria.

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[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 19:22:18 -0000
Subject: Re: removing sprayed-on foam SPOTS...
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Ray,
warm it up (NOT hot!!) with a hairdryer or hot paint gun and it will =
scrape off easily - I use hard wood, it's kinder to the original paint.
It will leave a lot of glue which comes off with Methylated Spirit =
(meths we call it). Lots of other things get it off - including petrol, =
but, tho it burns in stoves, meths is a lot safer than anything else =
available. (still don't smoke tho!)
Open all doors  or get hi!!

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+           
     I !__|  [_]|_\___  
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------=_NextPart_000_0066_01BE3D97.B4016960
	[ Original post was HTML ]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; ]

	[Attachment  removed, was 45 lines.]	

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From: "Scott Phillips" <goin4xn@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 11:42:09 PST
Subject: Fwd: (For Sale) Ultimate full size trail or tow rig!

Hey all,
I know that this is not really the forum for this but Ken is a personal 
friend of mine and is a GREAT guy.  This Burb is every bit as nice as he 
says it is. You can reply directly to him if you are interested at: 
kennkim@netzero.net

=========================
>Hey folks,
>As some of you all know my brother was killed last June in a
>roll over of his Scout II when some one pulled out in front
>of him...... Anyway, he had that built up Scout II, but he
>also had built up an Suburban before that. It does awesome
>to say the least & is modified to also say the least.... but
>only with the best of the best!. My sister in law has been
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 106 lines)]
>P.S. I will most likely tow my XJ to this years Moab Easter
>Jeep Safari so it will be seen ther if not already sold.

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From: Clinton Coates <ccoates@GOLDER.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 12:57:00 -0800
Subject: wimpy heater blower

     Here is my newest idea to put more heat through the heater.
     
     Remove the heater fan from the kodiak.  Install a garret T3 turbo to 
     my 2.25, but leave the stock air cleaner to carb setup.  Route the air 
     intake to the turbo from the side of the wing where the kodiak takes 
     the air from.  Route the output of the turbo back through into the 
     kodiak heater.
     
     Fry...
     
     Clinton 'just kidding, but only barely' Coates

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From: Clinton Coates <ccoates@GOLDER.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 13:18:00 -0800
Subject: Peugeot oil pans

Hi Alan

Clinton,

Should be no bigie to adapt the Rover style to the PG engine - I'm sure it
would
work.  The Rover pan is simply that - a shaped pot with the windage tray
over 
the top of it.

     So that sounds pretty simple.  In theory, assuming the oil pickup
geometry 
     is similar between the two engines, then the same pan shape should
allow 
     similar performance at wonky LR angles.  Or am I really simple and
missing 
     something here?  AFAIK, the pg diesel block is very similar to the LR
in 
     shape and structure, so I have large hopes for this one.

Re: Adapter:

It could probably be done - take a good look at the bottom of the PG engine
and
if it's even close to the same size all it would take is a redrill and Bob's
your uncle.

     Hmmm.  Sort of like an engine adaptor plate.  It depends on a few other

     minor details like how the front cover/oil pan works out and suchnot.

Come to think of it, might be worth taking a look at in any case!
     
     Definitely. Considering that I need to do a little bit of work on my 
     2.25 petrol before I can sell it, I guss I will be getting a close 
     look at the oil pan anyway!
     
     To my mind there are a few issues with building/adapting/modifying the 
     oil pan for the diesel.
     1) make it fit the truck axles etc.
     2) make sure it has enough oil capacity
     3) make sure that the crankshaft axis-to-bottom-of-pan is the same, 
     similar, or a bit less than the 2.25
     4) make sure that the pickup works properly
     5) overtoruque the attachment bolts when installing to ensure that 
     there are a few oil weeps to keep the truck company
     
     Remember when we were talking abotu preoilers?  A buddy of mine has a 
     lightweight with the oil cooler setup.  There is a second take off 
     from the oil pan that would be perfect for a preluber takeoff.  I 
     figure one brings the pickup from here to the agricultural pesticide 
     pump, then from the pump, throuhg a remote spin on adaptor, then to 
     oil pressure sender fitting on the top of the oil filter housing.  I 
     may try to do a simlar install when I do up the diesel.  It should be 
     possible to get a threaded plug brazed onto whatever pan I end up 
     using.
     
     Thanks for the ideas
     
     Clinton

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From: kevin.murphy@ps.ge.com
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 16:37:19 -0500
Subject: RE: Series III bulkhead stripped of plastic bits...

Mick - 

None of your links worked for me.

> http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/LWBrst/LWBrst0004.html
> http://freespace.virgin.net/lasalle.trim/g.html
> http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/LWBrst/LWBrst.html
> http://members.aol.com/IssyJames/LRlinks/LRlinks.htm

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 23:45:35 +0100
Subject: Firewall quandries

The bottom of the firewall/doorpost is a little bracket thingy which
holds the firewall onto the outriggers. When I inverted my removed
firewall to bang some rust off, I could see that the bracket bit is
loose - not rusted off and hanging on by a thread, but it seems to be
constructed as a bracket with a short square vertical stub which fits up
inside the doorpost. It is wiggling like a loose tooth.

I have never taken one of these apart - just a straight swap, so i
haven't noticed this before - now the question is - is the lower mount
intended to be removeable (and therefore available as a spare part) or
should I just clean it up and weld it back in place?

Any experience out there in the ether?

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
website				    www.channel6.dk
"Native Experience" - production unit in Alaska USA
telephone			     (907) 230 0359
e-mail				channel6@alaska.net
Visit the "Native Experience" project website at
http://www.channel6.dk/native

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 06:07:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Has anyone installed heated windscreen glass in their vehicle 
(II-A)?

I have heated screens on Murphy and they are great for demisting. They are not
so great at de-icing. I would leave the hoses in place.

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From: Steve Fullwood <ansdf@TTACS.TTU.EDU>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 17:08:43 -0600
Subject: Steering ball joints

Hi,
	I was needing to replace the boots on my ball joints as they are very
cracked and dry.  Do I have to use the Special Tool as stated in the green
bible or can I use any type ball joint tool and if so what type is
recommended.  Also, if all I do is remove, clean, regrease and refit what
problems may I incur. As always I appreciate all the help any of you can give.

Steve Fullwood
1961 SII 88 basic 

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 06:28:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Zen & the art of valve cover gaskets.

No, not unless you really rev. it up. I check my valve clearances with it
running.

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 00:43:36 +0100
Subject: Re: Zen & the art of valve cover gaskets.

Please explain! How does one check valve clearances with engine running?

Adrian Redmond

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 06:52:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Firewall quandries

I installed a piece of  1.25" square steel tubing up the hole and then
welded the foot bracket to it. Had to drill out the hole for the fender
fastening clip.

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 06:58:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Zen & the art of valve cover gaskets.

Quite easy really. Just push the feeler gauge in to the usual place. Try it
next time you check yours.

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 16:05:16 -0800
Subject: RE: Zen & the art of valve cover gaskets.

I can understand the feeler gauge bit, but how do adjust the damn things
with your screwdriver when they're jumping up and down several hundred times
a minute??

Paul.

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 19:15:49 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Zen & the art of valve cover gaskets.

On Tue, 12 Jan 1999, Adrian Redmond wrote:

:
:Please explain! How does one check valve clearances with engine running?

Pretty much the standard way.  If the clearances are on, the resistance
you feel with feeler gague is very different from too much.  If it is too
tight, then you won't get the proper feeler through of course.  Next time
you do your tappets, try it see what you think things are at. Then adjust
them the normal fashion.  Finally check them with the engine running, and
see what the difference is.  It is as a really neat trick.

David

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 19:16:42 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: Zen & the art of valve cover gaskets.

On Mon, 11 Jan 1999, Paul Quin wrote:

:
:I can understand the feeler gauge bit, but how do adjust the damn things
:with your screwdriver when they're jumping up and down several hundred times
:a minute??

You don't.

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 19:38:13 EST
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Pieces parts

Yeah, that's kind of what I was afraid of .

Thanks.

Bill Lawrence

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 19:46:33 EST
Subject: Re: Pieces parts

In a message dated 99-01-11 11:01:42 EST, you write:

 Bill, I called around in Denver and one company said that they sold
 their supply of BS and Whitworth to an import car place called Kats.
 (303) 730-0877. They might be a bit on the pricey side or so I've heard,
 but the guy said that they do have them. He would need the size, length
 and thread type (BS or Whit) in order to help you. Good luck.
 
 Jim Hall
 Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab
  >>
Ahaaa! This may be the gem I've been searching for. Thanks for the tip.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 19:43:16 EST
Subject: Re: Re[4]: Pieces parts

In a message dated 99-01-11 10:52:42 EST, you write:

<< 3. call LR fasteners, before its too late, i.e, pub time...only an hour to
go 
 :)
 
 cheers
 DAV3 >>

I'd love to call LR fasteners if i had any more information than the name.
Anyone got a phone # or email address.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:01:34 EST
Subject: Re: Zen & the art of valve cover gaskets.

In a message dated 99-01-11 13:33:07 EST, you write:

 And this morning as he pulled into the parking lot here at work, he left a
 trail of rainbow oil stains.  The head is again covered in fresh oil.  It's
 leaking worse than ever.
 
 Any suggestions?
 
 Paul in Victoria.
  >>
Hmmm? What did TAW ever figure out on her engine transplant quest?

Bill Lawrence

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 19:53:31 EST
Subject: Re: British Metrics website

It just keeps getting better. Thanks.

Bill Lawrence

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@ibm.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:10:12 +0100
Subject: Re: Missing on cylinders #1 and #3

I pulled my hair out for a *long* time with a '62 I have. I replaced
the Distributor and put in new plugs and wires and then the thing
sounded like it was hitting on only one or two cylinders. Of course I
figured I'd put the distibutor in wrong (I'd also replaced the Dist
drive). I fought and fought and finally figured out that three of the
four new Champion plugs were bad.
Don't overlook the obvious.
Cheers.

Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA

Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 19:51:26 EST
Subject: Re: Pieces parts--British Metrics

Ahaaaa! Even better a toll free number!

Bill Lawrence

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:10:45 EST
Subject: Re: Series III bulkhead stripped of plastic bits...

In a message dated 99-01-11 14:37:22 EST, you write:

<< I know that Wise Owl is advertising a complete IIA instrument cluster on
 their used parts web page...might be the easy way to go.
 
 Paul in Victoria.
  >>
I don't think the SII and SIII bulkheads have much in common. I doubt if you
would be able to mount the SII panel in the SIII.

Bill Lawrence

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:05:03 EST
Subject: Re: Zen & the art of valve cover gaskets.

In a message dated 99-01-11 14:18:59 EST, you write:

<<  Would it just fling oil everywhere like a
 lawn sprinkler ?
 >>
If it does it could be that the rocker bushes are worn out and the oil is
entering the valve cover too fast.

Bill Lawrence

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From: Steve West-Fisher <westfish@gte.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:15:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Zen & the art of valve cover gaskets.

On 12-Jan-99 David Scheidt wrote:
> On Tue, 12 Jan 1999, Adrian Redmond wrote:
>:
>:Please explain! How does one check valve clearances with engine running?
> Pretty much the standard way.  If the clearances are on, the resistance
> you feel with feeler gague is very different from too much.  If it is too
> tight, then you won't get the proper feeler through of course.  Next time

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> them the normal fashion.  Finally check them with the engine running, and
> see what the difference is.  It is as a really neat trick.

I realize tolerances are not that critical, but the above method will crush
your feeler guage so that the measurment is inaccurate. Just as you don't want
to leave the guage in when you tighten the locknut.
E-Mail: Steve West-Fisher <westfish@gte.net>
Date: 11-Jan-99
Time: 20:11:02

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:30:30 EST
Subject: Re: Hyd Winches

In a message dated 99-01-11 08:08:13 EST, you write:

 A land Rover sized snow blower takes too much horsepower to be driven by a
 front mounted belt driven hydraulic system.
 John and Muddy
  >>
Or maybe by a Landrover engine. In my days in the great white north (two and a
half years at Duluth IAP) I recall that the Oshkosh snow blowers used on our
roads and runways were driven by an auxilluiary engine of 500 hp or so. The
blower prime mover was a significant portion of the total GVW.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, (haven't seen a snow blower in years) Nm 

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:15:02 EST
Subject: Re: wimpy heater blower

In a message dated 99-01-11 15:35:03 EST, you write:

      Here is my newest idea to put more heat through the heater.
      
      Remove the heater fan from the kodiak.  Install a garret T3 turbo to 
      my 2.25, but leave the stock air cleaner to carb setup.  Route the air 
      intake to the turbo from the side of the wing where the kodiak takes 
      the air from.  Route the output of the turbo back through into the 
      kodiak heater.
      
      Fry... >>
Better yet, plumb it to the engine so you can get where you are going faster
and warm up.

Bill lawrence

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:34:29 EST
Subject: Re: Series III bulkhead stripped of plastic bits...

In a message dated 99-01-11 08:14:58 EST, you write:

 Tom Tolefson from the Toronto area did this some years ago. There were no
 sharp bits that I can recall. He made his own instrument cluster. It looked
 very strange but each to his own.
 John and Muddy
  >>
you would probably be better off to switch in a SII bulkhead (and windshield).
I realize that may be a long stretch just to get back to basics but if you
choose to I might have a place for your old inferior SIII bulkhead to go.

Bill Lawrence

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:43:28 EST
Subject: Re: Missing on cylinders #1 and #3

In a message dated 99-01-11 09:45:52 EST, you write:

<< The valves are not hitting the valve cover, as it does the same thing with
 the cover off. When I first reported this, I thought it was only the #3
 cylinder, but it is ALSO the #1 cylinder. These two are right next to each
 other on the distributor, coincidence??? I don't know??? 
 
 >>
Could be that you have carbon tracking between these two distributor towers.
that would cause both cylinders to misfire especially under load. Try a
different distributor cap. Good luck.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, Nm

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:37:33 EST
Subject: Re: Leaking front wheel hubs

In a message dated 99-01-11 09:06:08 EST, you write:

<< >at all - the client's beast of a dog has marked it's territory on my
Rover.
 Good story. It reminds me of the dim and distant past when I was in the
 Scouts. Each summer, the whole troop would spend two weeks camping in
 various remote locations in Scotland. Toilet facilities on these camps were
 of the thunderbox type, consisting of a deep pit with a long wooden box
 (with appropriate holes) over the top. The pits had to be limed and the
 boxes scrupulously scrubbed and cleaned every morning, prior to inspection
 by the Scout Leader.
 On one memorable day, our patrol was on jankers. My patrol leader had
 obtained a quantity of peanut butter which he dotted liberally over the box
 seat. On discovering this during his inspection, Skip summoned our patrol to
 the bog tent, and swept back the curtain.
 "What," he demanded, "is this?"
 Quick as a flash, our PL stepped in, dipped his finger in one of the blobs
 and put it in his mouth.
 "Tastes like shit, Sir!"
 
 Tom Stevenson
 University Marine Biological Station, Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
 Tel: 01475 530581  Fax: 01475 530601  Email: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
 Web page: http://www.gla.ac.uk/Acad/Marine/
  >>
Yeah, I know. "Sure glad I did'nt step in it."

Bill Lawrence

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From: urbncby@sgi.net (Scott C. Wickham Jr.)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 23:38:05 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Subscribing to the list

>What you need to do is

  Thanks for the info.  Just had a great trail ride this weekend in the
snow.  Three members from our local club, Fort Pitt Land Rover Group,
battled the jeeps and did great.  My ser III and a stock Disco.

  Thanks again David, Scott

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From: hstin@cts.com (Henry Stinson)
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 21:41:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Zenith Idle Questions.....

Hello all,
        I recently traded out an old and very worn Rochester for a new
Zenith 36IV carb.  The carb is brand new and yet I can't seem to get the
idle system to work.  At first, despite turning the idle screw clockwise, I
could not get the motor to start to stale out (which I've been told is what
should happen).  Despite this the Rover ran OK, except for the odd bit of
run on after shut down. Any hints on getting the idle system to work on the
carb?  I've been told if the idle system isn't working properly the carb as
a whole won't work as it should.
        Second question - it gets worse!  Today I played with the idle and
idle speed settings in an attempt to get the carb to work properly.
Regardless of what I tried it would not idle and stall out with adjustment
as it should.  I adjusted it so it would atleast run OK and then left for
school.  
        Upon departing the freeway the car wouldn't idle when stopped.  I
pulled into a gas station, reset the idle speed screw until I got the proper
RPM, and pulled off.  Three miles later, again it wouldn't idle.  I repeated
my adjustments, drove, and again it would stall instead of idle.  
        I repeated this process all the way home.  Any hints or thoughts on
what may be causing my problem?  After two weeks of assembling all the parts
for the new carb I hoped this would be the end of my carb problems.
FRUSTRATING to say the least.....  Thanks in advance.

                                                        Henry Stinson
                                                     '73 SWB SHED again.... 

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From: "Steve Rochna" <mns@oasisol.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 22:58:25 -0800
Subject: re: series III bulkhead stripped...

John:

While poking around under my 'facia' in an attempt to get the heater doors
to work properly I found much rust.  The thing practically disitegrated as
I got it free from the bulkhead.  Since these things are pretty expensive I
decided to scrub all the crud off the BH and paint it flat black.  Over the
heater hole I put a simple piece of sheet metal I made to keep the
passenger from getting blasted (heater air flow is greatly improved).  I
only had one guage, a capillary type oil press guage and I made a mount
(out of a contadina tomato paste can) to fit it on the bottom of the
fixture holding the flasher lights switch.  

It looks pretty neat when finished and allows inspection/repair of the
firewall.  It's not very original but more practical.  I will need to build
a sub panel to mount the guages in as I have a small tach and no where to
out it.

Steve

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 03:10:34 EST
Subject: Re: Has anyone installed heated windscreen glass in their vehicle 
(II-A)?

In a message dated 99-01-11 18:03:16 EST, you write:

<< I have heated screens on Murphy and they are great for demisting. They are
not
 so great at de-icing. I would leave the hoses in place.
 >>

This brings up a question: we've all heard of Rain-X, right?

Well, I sometimes use car wax (as in polish) on windshields, in place of Rain-
X.

Question is - does this have any anti-icing effect on windshields? (ie: does
it minimize the amount of ice that you would normally get in such conditions?
Does the ice break away faster? Has anybody here even tried it?)

Enquiring minds want to know.

Charles

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 23:04:29
Subject: Re: Zen & the art of valve cover gaskets.

	Been adjusting my valves with the engine running since my fist car (an
MGA) in 1963.  Nice to know that I have crushed my poor feeler gauge, must
be why I had to replace it after 30 years.  You can adjust the valves with
the engine running though it takes a little practice and dexterity.  At
idle the valve gear is not moving very fast and has a very small arc of
movement at any RPM.  Is a bit messy as the oil does get spread around and
its a challenge to keep the screw driver in the slot.
	A while back saw a valve adjusting tool advertised somewhere.  Looked 
like
it would make this operation a piece of cake.  It was a screw driver with a
captive box end wrench.  The wrench keeps the screw driver in the slot
which is the problem no matter how you adjust the valves.  If anyone
remembers seeing this advertised, I'd like to know.  It was AB, RN, BP or
the like and wasn't too dear.

Aloha Peter

>I realize tolerances are not that critical, but the above method will crush
>your feeler guage so that the measurment is inaccurate. Just as you don't
want
>to leave the guage in when you tighten the locknut.
>E-Mail: Steve West-Fisher <westfish@gte.net>

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From: Roydon Woodford <roydon@landrover.org>
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 08:57:19 +0000
Subject: Re: VIRUS!!!

As a follow up I have seen and run a trojan which I believe to be the same
but under the name of winnuke not pleasant if you do run it. The screen
will display coloured shapes, all very sweet but while its running it is
attacking your hard drive. The longer it runs the more damage it is doing.
If you do run it it will mean a FDISK and windows reload as it attacks the
file allocation table Be VERY VERY carefull as virus checkers are not
picking this up before it is run.

Roydon

>>MSNBC is reporting <http://www.msnbc.com/news/229572.asp> a trojan 
>>which is being sent via email.  It's sent as PICTURE.EXE, and when 
>>this appears to be such a case.  As always, be very careful when 
>>running programs from people you don't know.

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 23:21:03
Subject: Re: Steering ball joints

	I use the pickle fork type remover.  The kind that takes a big hammer.
Its works ok if you have a stout heart and faith in the over engineered
Rover component strength.  Big negative is that it ruins the collar that
holds the boot on so best used if you are replacing the ball joint.  The
ball joints aren't that expensive and are undoubtedly worn if they are as
old as the car.  I went through and replaced all of mine because the boots
had gone and they were a bit rusty.  Couldn't detect any looseness in them
but decided to replace them rather than just reboot and grease.  The new
ball joints really tightened up the steering.  Guess I'd gotten used to
averaging out the oscillations and didn't realize how much slop there was
in the old joints.  Now it goes where I point it without any play in the
wheel.

Aloha Peter

At 05:08 PM 1/11/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Hi,
>	I was needing to replace the boots on my ball joints as they are very
>cracked and dry.  Do I have to use the Special Tool as stated in the green
>bible or can I use any type ball joint tool and if so what type is
>recommended.  Also, if all I do is remove, clean, regrease and refit what
>problems may I incur. As always I appreciate all the help any of you can

give.
>Steve Fullwood
>1961 SII 88 basic 
>cracked and dry.  Do I have to use the Special Tool as stated in the green
>bible or can I use any type ball joint tool and if so what type is

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From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 10:22:43 +0100
Subject: Re: Firewall quandries

Hello Adrian,

The bottom of the firewall/doorpost the  little bracket thingy 
which holds the firewall onto the outriggers should be welded to the 
firewall. At least mine was/is (original 23 year old SIII firewall) 
when I took her off to weld in the replacing pieces.

The brackets are available as separate repare bits.
If they are in reasonable shape however, you might just sandblast and 
reweld them, right?

Regards,

Huub Pennings
(private e-mail to jpennings@worldonline.nl

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 09:36:48 +0000
Subject: Re: Zen & the art of valve cover gaskets.

>And this morning as he pulled into the parking lot here at work, he left a
>trail of rainbow oil stains.  The head is again covered in fresh oil.  It's
>leaking worse than ever.
>Any suggestions?

Glue it on.Here in the UK we can buy a rocker gasket which has a
self adhesive side.The M.O is clean the rocker cover,peel off the
paper strip on the self adhesive side,stick the gasket to the cover,
and re-assemble.Alternatively,clean the rocker cover as before,and
use impact adhesive and an ordinary cork gasket.Dont over tighten
the holding down nuts.

Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 09:44:17 -0000
Subject: Why I love my Landy OR What I did last Saturday!

Here in sunny Northampton (UK), I decided to spend Saturday getting 'The
Rancor' (My SIII) going again. She decided to throw a 'won't start whatever
you do' mood on me and after 2 hours of hand cranking I gave and decided to
pull the starter. By now it was about 2-3 degrees C (still okay though...)

This is where it all started to go wrong.....is it me, or should the studs
holding the exhaust not be standard ones? Anyway, the upshot was one sheared
off, of course it was the hardest one to drill out from underneath! So, as
we dropped the 'shiny' (yes shiny!) starter out, she fell away from the
wiring!!

There was the problem....it had so far taken 4 hours to deal with the
sheared bolt, and the real problem had been a SPOT!! The PO had bodged the
connection to his remanufactured starter, and the terminal was loose
too....so when we had tested it by connecting it to the battery direct it
had made a strange noise and turned REALLY SLOWLY. Upon removal of course it
was perfect! Anyway at least I know it's new!

The Rancor doesn't sound too hot with the exhaust off, but hopefully she
will be sorted out by next Sunday....any suggestions as to what the studs
should be made of, brass or copper? I don't want a repeat of this
situation!!!

Neil

BTW the PO was the MOD!!!!!!!

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 12:13:16 +0200
Subject: Re: Why I love my Landy OR What I did last Saturday!

> will be sorted out by next Sunday....any suggestions as to what the studs
> should be made of, brass or copper? I don't want a repeat of this
> situation!!!

Studs should be steel - you should be able to buy new ones with 
the right thread at any LR place.  Nuts should be double thickness 
brass or thin steel with a flange and ribs on to prevent them 
loosening.

The easiest way to do a proper job is to pull the manifold and 
replace as required on the bench...

All the best,

Andy

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From: "M. Tompkins" <mmglass@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 06:11:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Has anyone installed heated windscreen glass in their vehicle 

CIrvin1258@aol.com wrote:

> This brings up a question: we've all heard of Rain-X, right?
> Question is - does this have any anti-icing effect on windshields? (ie: does
> it minimize the amount of ice that you would normally get in such conditions?
> Does the ice break away faster? Has anybody here even tried it?)

    I use Rain-X all the time. Have heard there is a better product that
professional truck drivers use, but never tracked any down or found out the
name. Anyone?
    Anyway, Rain-X sure saves wear and tear on those precious wiper motors.
Never seem to need to turn them on, although once in a while I do to make
sure they still work.
    Have not seen any anti icing effect but I think it does make it easier to
scrap ice off.
    I would recommend Rain-X, especially to those that don't have working
wiper motors. How many of you are out there?

Cheers - Mike
'66 109" Hybrid Coiler SW - 'No Chance'
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/6623/
http://pw1.netcom.com/~mmglass/index.html
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Hills/8365/

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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 10:59:46 -0000
Subject: Re: Why I love my Landy OR What I did last Saturday!

Pulling the manifold may well break some more.....I'm very worried!

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From: Marc Rengers <mr@b4m.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 12:20:40 +0100
Subject: Re: Grease

>Would this be something like CV joint grease? After all there are UJ's in
>there.

I believe there are constant velocity joints inthere.... These are 
different from the standard Series UJ's.

But maybe the grease is the same ??   Anyone?

Marc Rengers
Westeremden, Holland
mr@b4m.com
Systemsmanager Academie Minerva Groningen

0596-551334 (home)
050-366675 (work)
06-51550521 (GSM)

http://www.minerva.fk.hanze.nl/landrover/index.html

           --_                                --_         
      _____|__\___                    ________|__\___     
      | _  |   |_ |}                  |  _    |   |_ |}   
      "(_)"""""(_)"                   ""(_)"""""""(_)"
 1978 SIII 88" 2.25 diesel       1968  109"  SIIa 2.25 petrol
     reg. 47-DB-13                     reg. unknown    
      marine blue                 green (15 layers of paint)

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