The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: "Roy H Caldwell" <kiotee@mcn.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 07:32:59 -0700
Subject: Compression update
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Thanks for all the suggestions.  The engine was out to correct my =
orginal mistake of having the timing chain on 90 degrees out.  Yes it =
did run.  Not well!  The chain was put on by using a dial indicater and =
about three hours of discussion, measure, discussion, rotate, think, =
curse and I thought a large degree of accuracey.  My friend Kern and I =
did this thing over and over.  The result is that when no. one is at tdc =
by the crank and distributor position, both valves are closed.  The =
remaining valves do their thing in the correct sequence.  The incorrect =
chain timing was corrected.  I must admit, that now the headcasket has =
been questioned, I can't remember seeing anything wrong there. =
Unfortunately I think I reused the old copper one.  The head was not =
shaved for compression.  It was surfaced and cleaned up.  I agree with =
the majority in that there has to be something going on with the head =
gasket.  The pistons where not removed, so the rings should be ok.  =
Didn't want to do it but seems the only thing to do is take the head =
off, start with a new casket and see what happens.  Any other ideas, =
please pass them on.  Glad Wicked is not the daily driver.  Heaven is a =
spare Rover to mess about with!!

Roy

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 99 06:28:49 -0800
Subject: Re: Compression update

>I must admit, that now the headcasket has been questioned,
>I can't remember seeing anything wrong there. 
>Unfortunately I think I reused the old copper one.
;
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Never never ever never reuse a head gasket

Roy I thought better of you. 

You're just kidding about reusing a copper head gasket...right?

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 09:42:32 -0500
Subject: RE: Sighting

Probably me, but I can usually only remember back 10 years ago or
more...hard to recall what I might have been doing recently.
BTW, if you are in RIC, how come I don't know you?  Hermit or something?
BTW2, I saw a very tidy Brit. Racing Green./white top SIII (or Stage 1?
didn't see the front but I think the bonnet was a bit long for a III) on
Main St./2nd St. in RIC on Thursday @ noon.  Who was that?

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[spamkill: @[0-9][0-9]* input: %s]	 Message-Id: 
<s6a4a899.031@194.151.103.94>

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 16:41:55 +0200
Subject: Re: Compression update

> been questioned, I can't remember seeing anything wrong there. =
> Unfortunately I think I reused the old copper one.  The head was not =

Roy I don't think it is a terribly good idea to re-use head gaskets; 
best to reserve that technique for emergencies.  An old one will 
never seal properly, and your compression of the gasket for the 
factory specified torque will be shot to hell.  Replace if you possibly 
can.

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

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From: "BROWN DAVID E (DAVE)" <debrown@srpnet.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 08:02:57 -0700
Subject: Another long maiden voyage - NY to AZ

I may as well throw in my LR purchase and initial voyage bit.  Bought it
over the internet and phone calls and a xeroxed photograph that I got in the
mail.  Flew to NY (Potsdam, just South of the Canadian boarder) and drove it
first to the East coast, through Canada, back in the USA in Michigan, down
to Chicago, and meandered back through various states all the way to
Arizona. 

I brought a flat screwdriver, phillips screwdriver, pliers, vice grips,
adjustable wrench, duct tape, electrical tape, pocket knife, and some wire.
Had a very minor problem on the 2nd day that took me about half a day to
figure out (thought I ran out of gas) - turned out to be a broken wire from
the side of the distributor to the points. When I first drove her, the brake
petal did nothing on the 1st press all the way to the floor, but finally had
braking on the 2nd pump. Turned out to be only an adjustment.  All in all,
it was a wonderful trip, around 2500 miles or more.  I took my son along, he
was around 15 at the time.  We mostly camped out in the rear of the 109.

I had a lot of faith back then, don't know if I'd do it again... Okay, the
truth is, I'd do it again IF my wife came with me. :-)

Warmest regards, Dave Brown
Thank you
Dave Brown,  <http://www.srp.gov/> AM/FM
Phone:  602-236-3544  Fax:  602-236-2303
Hours: 7:00 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. Mon-Thurs  AWW: Off Fridays
E-mail:   <mailto:debrown@srp.gov> debrown@srp.gov

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From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 07:21:49 -0800
Subject: splines

Hi,
To add to the axle spline thread,
I parted out a wrecked 74-109 P/U a while back, and it had in the front, 24
spline axles on the outer end that were 10 spline in at the diff.
So without pulling it apart, you thought it was fine splines because that
was what you saw.
It was a CKD from Costa Rica. 
It also had the frame made like a defender, two stamped U's welded together
down the middle.
5-6 dollars in Costa Rican change fell out of the dash panel behind the shelf.

Bob B

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From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 10:33:30 -0500
Subject: RE: Impact Wrench on Pinion Nut

That's my standard method.  Did it just this weekend too.  
BTW, I have 3 impact guns, a 12volt I carry in the truck for tire changes,
etc., a 120volt in the shop and of course an air impact.  Each has their
advantages.  I tend to use the 59$ 120volt (Harbor Freight) in the shop.
It's never failed to remove anything!  Standard tool for the LRs and the
Harley.
Only other method is the single impact wrench.  Place large wrench on pinion
nut (preferably one designed for this purpose) and whack it with a BFM again
and again until it gives.  

John Tackley
Richmond, VA

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 17:08:32 +0200
Subject: Re: ball joint

> I did a lot af tapping on it, as the manual says, but i won't come off.
> I'll be very happy with any good suggestion 

Hans just in case... don't tap the end of the bolt upwards - try 
bashing the exposed side of the arm that the ball joint taper fits 
into (i.e. the hammer swings horizontally not vertically).

If you are already bashing the arm sideways, then you can place a 
big hammer as an anvil on one side of the arm and bash the other 
side with another big or small hammer.  That way you can bash 
harder.  Keep at it and the thing will (should?) eventually pop out as 
if to ask what all the noise was about.  Numerous repetitions may 
be required, and heating the arm (not *too* hot!) with a good 
blowtorch will help.

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 15:41:18 +0000
Subject: Re: ball joint

Andy comes out bashing:

If you are already bashing the arm sideways, then you can place a
big hammer as an anvil on one side of the arm and bash the other
side with another big or small hammer.  That way you can bash
>harder.

One has to ask...is this standard procedure with oxen as well?

Mike Rooth

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 16:45:45 +0100
Subject: Re: Block Heaters

When I was in Alaska I saw some great heat mats which people glue /tape
/ fix onto the oil pan and battery to keep them warm - I even saw one
wrapped around the bottom hose to the radiator. They have core heaters
too, though i don't know if these will fit a rover engine. But what
about a dipstick heater - they have those in the US too.

I saw these at either fred Meyer's or Sears.

Pity they wont work on 220 volts over here (well i could wire two in
series?)

Go for the dipstick heater and a battery pad if you cant get a core
heater to fit.

Good luck!

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
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"Native Experience" - production unit in Alaska USA
telephone			     (907) 230 0359
e-mail				channel6@alaska.net
Visit the "Native Experience" project website at
http://www.channel6.dk/native

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 10:52:46 -0500
Subject: Relays, assumptions and QC

"Tom Rowe" <trowe@ibm.net> wrote:

>A quick check bypassing the the relay coil circuit and I discovered
>that the relay, while mechanically working properly, had a bad
>connection inside.

>Don't assuume *anything*

Absolutely correct.  When hooking up the driving lamps on the Disco, the
Bosch relay packaged with 'em was found to be bad.  (Took it apart but
couldn't get it to work.  The electromagnet would move, but it wouldn't
complete the circuit.)  Went to the auto parts store and bought another
Bosch.  It too was bogus.  *Great* QC, that.  The third time was the
charm...with a no namo cheapie....  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  |                                                   |
  |   (original owner)        (pre-production)        | 
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: alice@atd.crane.navy.mil
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 10:55:24 +0000
Subject: Mild Tow Rig ...Too Much To Expect?

Is it too much to expect a 2A 88 or 109 2.25 petrol to tow a 
16 foot sailing dinghy (~700 lb combined trailer/hull weight)
1300 miles, about half interstate road, at a legal safe speed?

This is my annual retreat for which I expect to use a Rover
...I have never driven one ...am I too optimistic? 
Mark

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 11:01:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Mild Tow Rig ...Too Much To Expect?

Towing 700 Lb at legal speeds:

Depends on the terrain and the Series vehicle involved. I wouldn't hesitate to
do it with a car that was in good order in not-too-mountainous terrain. If
you're climbing the Rockies with an engine that eats a quart per 100 miles of
oil, ....no.

                    ajr

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 11:02:31 EST
Subject: Re: Mild Tow Rig ...Too Much To Expect?

In a message dated 1/19/99 10:52:17 AM Eastern Standard Time,
alice@atd.crane.navy.mil writes:

> This is my annual retreat for which I expect to use a Rover
>  ...I have never driven one ...am I too optimistic? 

You should be able to do that with either.  You'll have better control with
the 109 (because 16 feet is still 16 feet) but a LR in good nick can handle a
700-1000 pound trailer without much difficulty.  

Make sure your tranny fluids are full and in good condition.

Nate

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From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 08:12:41 -0800
Subject: no compression

>From: "Roy H Caldwell" <kiotee@mcn.net>
>Subject: Compression
Hi Roy,
I'd bet you have the cam out of time. What do you mean by adjust the timing
chain? And after a rebuild only 5k miles ago?

Bob B 

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From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 08:08:37 -0800
Subject: waving

>From: "Steve Rochna" <mns@oasisol.com>
>Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 22:57:54 -0800
>Subject: Waving
>To the guy in Davis, Ca. with the 88" PU:
>Sorry about not following you to a spot where we could swap Rover tales but
>I needed gas and was in kind of a hurry.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>I needed gas and was in kind of a hurry.
>Steve

Sounds like you saw John Hess driving Stubby his 60-88. (actually Katherines).

Bob B

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From: "Alain-Jean PARES" <InfoDyne@wanadoo.fr>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 17:09:21 +0100
Subject: Thailand Landies report

Hi all,
I'm back from Thailand where I was for two weeks holidays,

Little report of what I saw :
nearly 95% of cars are pickups (Toy, Nissan, Isuzu,...)
Landies:
Series II : only 3 (one with burmese plate, I have a picture)
Series III : a lot (more than 20) but more 109 than 88 (one with only
monks, but I had not enough time to take a picture...), all in perfect
state.

Defender : Only 2 90.
Disco : Some,
Rangies : Some, but only 4.6 HSE (who said there is an asia crisis ?)

Have fun all.
Alain
Fontainebleau, FRANCE

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 11:50:28 -0500
Subject: Breaking free

BEN_NIBALI@denso-diam.com wrote:

>I am replacing (trying to replace) the oil seal on the rear pinion of my
>1965 88".  It has the regular (non-Salisbury) dif.  I am having a hell of
>a time getting the big (1-1/16") nut off of the pinion shaft.

Ahhh, this is one tough nut to crack.  Couldn't resist ;-)

>Any other methods I haven't thought of?

I've tried to use a cheater bar, but then there isn't enough room under the
sills...backlash takes up all the movement of a 4' bar on the end of an 18"
breaker bar.  I've wedged myself under the vehicle and pushed with my feet
hard enough to roll the vehicle up the wood chocks blocking the wheels.

I've found that it does need some kind of sudden shock...like the whack of
a lump hammer on a wrench, rather than a sustained hard push. If that
fails...it seems that the impact wrench is the only option left, though the
use of chatter guns have always scared me.  (I won't let a tire place
*touch* the lug nuts with one....)  Just remove the backlash first -
tighten it up, chock the wheels - then have at it.  Good luck.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  |                                                   |
  |   (original owner)        (pre-production)        | 
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 11:52:13 -0500
Subject: RE: Changing CrankShaft Oil Seals

Ben, 

Did just this job last weekend on a '66.

-Do I really need to replace those T-seals in the rear bearing cap?  I hear
they are NLA.

If you mean the cork seals on the sides of the rear main bearing carrier,
YES.  You should also replace the rear main seal carrier when you do the
[spamkill: @[0-9][0-9]* input: %s]	 seal;  2 halves, @80$.  Got 'em all 
from AB.  The time and effort to get in

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 13:05:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Block Heaters

I have a magnetic oilpan heater that I use on my aircooled Same tractors
work like a charm. 2 of those could be wire together. Simple effective and
portable also handy for warming other nonflamable liquids in ferous
containers. I haven't tried baked beans in the can yet.
John and Muddy

Adrian Redmond wrote:

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 13:10:05 -0400
Subject: Re: ball joint

Mike Rooth wrote:

> Andy comes out bashing:
> If you are already bashing the arm sideways, then you can place a
> big hammer as an anvil on one side of the arm and bash the other
> side with another big or small hammer.  That way you can bash
> >harder.
> One has to ask...is this standard procedure with oxen as well?
> Mike Rooth

Definately not. If you bash Oxen anywhere near the approximate location of a
rear diff they will bash back harder than you can imagine. BTDT.
John and Muddy

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 13:18:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Mild Tow Rig ...Too Much To Expect?

You will do just fine. 88s are used to tow much heavier trailers all over
the world.
Have fun and good sailing.
I have used mine to pull 150 bales of hay on a 4 wheel wagon for a total
weight of trailer and load of about 3 tons. She pulled it fine up to 40 mph.
Stopping was a whole nother story..............
John and Muddy

alice@atd.crane.navy.mil wrote:

> Is it too much to expect a 2A 88 or 109 2.25 petrol to tow a
> 16 foot sailing dinghy (~700 lb combined trailer/hull weight)
> 1300 miles, about half interstate road, at a legal safe speed?
> This is my annual retreat for which I expect to use a Rover
> ...I have never driven one ...am I too optimistic?
> Mark

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From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 12:36:16 EST
Subject: Re: Range Rover shimmy

We've got the same problem in a '96 Disco with 54K miles.  Started about 47K
(just before warranty ran out) and has been about the same.  Can't find
anything loose.  For those of you Vietnam era veterans, it is about like
getting the bounce going on a GOER, except it is a distinct sideways shudder
in the steering wheel. Almost like a stall shudder/stick shaker in an
aircraft.  Can't believe that steering parts would be that worn, nor the
conversion from dino oil to grease in the swivels would be the cause.

As soon as my "favorite" Uncle coughs up the tax refund, we're going with new
shocks (slight dampness at the top) and a new dampner.  Have to agree with Con
that the dampner is designed into the system on the plushmobiles, rather than
a safety device on the Series type vehicles (got my first case of steering
wheel thumb on an IH Cadet).

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

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From: Ian Mitchell <imitchel@chopin.fis.puc.cl>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 14:40:17 -0800
Subject: splines

Hi

As I sparked this one off, I thought I should contribute. I went to a
spares place this morning and in the blokes SII and IIA parts manual
were both 10 spline and 24 spline half shafts. Unfortunately ny spanish
wasn't up to finding out why (I've only been here a few months). At
lwast it confirms that 24 splines were used in IIs or IIAs.

Ian

--
Dr. Ian H Mitchell
Facultad de Fisica
Pontificia Universidad Catolica de Chile
Santiago

Tel + 56 2 686 4985

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 12:42:34 EST
Subject: Re: waving

Another Stubby Sighting,
Last week parked on J street about 11th in Downtown Sacto.  That's at least a
10 Mile radius for Stubby.  Go Stubby!

Zack Arbios

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 12:52:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Front spring replacement

Here's the sequence for front spring replacement:

1. Be sure truck is securely blocked on jackstands
2. Go underneath with angle grinder, sawzall, and BFH. 
3. Remove lower shock mount. Loosen shackle bolts if possible and remove 
shackles. Use sawzall if necessary.
4. saw or grind through u-bolts.
5. loosen or cut through front hanger bolts. Old springs are now free. 
Axle should come away from spring perch. If not use all the powers at 
your command to remove it. I have had spring center bolts rust weld into 
the recess in the axle housing...not fun.
6. Install new frame bushings. Use burning/sawzall or air hammer&socket 
method to remove old. Install using rented ball-joint press, air 
hammer&socket method or long bolt and stacked washer method...all covered 
in many old posts and FAQ sites.
7.Slide new spring under axle and install new front spring bolt using 
plenty of copper grease. Same for other side.
8. Using manly strength or a floor jack (at center of the spring), lift 
rear end of spring and install shackle loosly, using gobs of copper 
grease on bolts. Repeat for opposite side.
9. Install new u-bolts with monstrous huge piles of copper grease, new 
nuts and cleaned-up bottom plate. Tighten snug only, and evenly.
10. Use floor jack to raise spring center enough to get shock bushes and 
lower shock mount reinstalled, use new cotter pin. Same for flip side.
11. Reinstall tires and lower vehicle from jackstands.
12. get three or four neighbor kids to hang on front of truck and bounce 
up and down (CAUTION: LAWSUIT ALERT) drive around the block...twice.
13. finish tightening u-bolts, shackle bolts.
14. Check everything again in two weeks.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: Andy <andyb@NOSPAMlrover.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 18:48:14 +0000
Subject: Re: Front spring replacement.

OK I haven't actually changed the front springs (yet), although I have
done the rears on two different LRs. It is my intention to change the
fronts soon (GRIN). After reading several threads on leaf spring
replacement with interest I haven't found anyone who seems to 'do it my
way'. So here goes.

A few people here suggest using axle stands on the chassis (or frame
across the pond) and another pair on the axles. I say forget the pair on
the chassis and just prop up the axle. Then put some kind of packing
(wooden blocks do for me) between the top of the axle and the chassis.
Jack up your trolley jack to just about take the weight of the axle
under the spring base plate and undo the U-bolts and remove. Then lower
the spring down using the trolley jack (a bottle jack is too tall for
this). 

Undo the rear shakle bolts first, then the front one. Drag spring out. 

To fit new one I put the front shackle bolt in then jack the spring upto
the rear bolt level. Put these bolts in, leaving loose(ish). Put the
base plate on the trolley jack and jack up. Put in U-bolts and do up. As
you jack up the spring you will find that the packing between axle and
chassis becomes lose and the axle may lift out of the axles stand. 

Personally I do one side at a time. In my experience if there where lied
up before then they will be afterwards. Anyway if they don't there is
nothing here that a big (I mean BIG) rachet strap can't put right.

Insert usual disclaimer about personal injury etc. 

Andy ( Series IIA & 200Tdi Disco)

http://www.lrover.demon.co.uk. 

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From: Allen Northwood <nella@enternet.com.au>
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 05:01:01 +1000
Subject: first start - diesel

Hi everyone.

Tomorrow I should be going to pick up a SIII which has sat out in the
weather for over a year. There's a shrub in the engine bay and something
dead in the cabin.

The Isuzu 3.9 diesel engine hasn't been run for this time as well. I'm new
to diesels and would appreciate any tips on how to get her running. Nothing
turned up in the archives apart from priming the fuel system. 

Any advice gratefully received.

TIA

Allen
69 SIIA 
coming soon: 78 SIII 109  

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From: Dale Smith <smithd@bunt.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:15:05 +0100
Subject: pulling SUVs out of snowbanks(sorry for the cross post)

I hate leaving anyone stuck in a snow bank no matter how much I dislike
them. It is sort of on par with not leaving some one stuck out in the
desert. Chances are nothing bad will happen, but why take the chance. If
I'm helping someone out and they are a jerk about it, I might take the
money and buy a round for some friends. Then again, being the unsociable
lout that I am, I might just say something rude and leave after they are
unstuck.
By the way, did we ever name our virtual bar tender? More Guiness over
here please...:-)
Smitty

I agree with Smitty as far as not taking money and just reminding the
other
driver that next time he sees a stuck vehicle to get out and help just
like
someone did for him. The only thing I would not do as Smitty said was
if the
driver was being a jerk when I was nice enough to stop then I still
would
not take his money. I would just drive away and leave him in the snow
bank.

Have a good day,

Brad H.

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:03:30 +0100
Subject: Re: Front spring replacement.

Andy wrote:

I say forget the pair on
the chassis and just prop up the axle. Then put some kind of packing
(wooden blocks do for me) between the top of the axle and the chassis.
Jack up your trolley jack to just about take the weight of the axle
under the spring base plate and undo the U-bolts and remove. Then lower
the spring down using the trolley jack 

-----

This method will work - but I wouldn't chance it! You might have to bash
things harder than is safe to get parts loose from each other - and this
could topple your wedges. I would also be very nervous of getting
underneath this set up, in case something came loose.

Axle stands are the best bet, they allow the most amount of room under
and around the axle and springs so that you can get at them to work, and
with the axle loose, it's easier to align it on the new springs.

Each to his own - but I'd characterise this method as somewhat risky...

Good luck

Adrian Redmond

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From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:18:16 +0100
Subject: Many questions from me lately...

Dear list,

I have, during the latest weeks, been asking a lot of questions concerning
everything from strange blower motors to setting preload of the output
shaft bearing. I start to feel like I am only using the knowledge of this
list without giving anything back. I hope you can all bear with me for some
time and maybe in the future I could also be useful to members of the list.
I bought my 109 SIII in March 1998 so maybe I am soon catching up on all
small and some larger repairs that still waits for my attention. I must say
I have had a lot more problems than I initially thought I would have but it
has been fun and I have learnt a lot during these months. 

Thanks for all help and I am surely going to be back soon...

Peter

  Peter Thoren, PhD
  
  Department of Genetics
  Uppsala University
  Box 7003; S-750 07 Uppsala
  Phone: +46 18 67 12 69, 67 26 64
  Fax:   +46 18 67 27 05
  e-mail peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:03:45 +0100
Subject: Rimmer bros Any good?

Dear list,

I am about to order a stainless steel exhaust system from Rimmer Bros in
England and I just wonder if they have a reputation, good or bad? They give
lifetime warranty on their systems and it would be nice to know how much
that is really worth especially since I need to do eventual claims from
Sweden.

Thanks in beforehand,

Peter
Peter Thoren 
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Member #1379 Swedish Land Rover Club
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
Sweden
phone/fax +46 18 39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 11:06:10
Subject: Re: Many questions from me lately...

	We were all in the same place as you were sometime in the distant past.
You've got to learn so you can give back to the list.  Keep plugging away
and you will be up to speed.  In the mean time, don't worry about it.  I
don't think anyone that submits to the list does so out of duress.  We all
try and help each other out as much as possible and don't expect anything
in return.  

	I've been at it for more than 15 years, most of that time without the
list.  Since discovering the list I've been able to help out a few people,
a lot more people have helped me out.  It sure is a lot easier to
accomplish the many little jobs that an aging rover requires with the help
of the fellow listees.

Aloha Peter

 I start to feel like I am only using the knowledge of this
>list without giving anything back. I hope you can all bear with me for some
>time and maybe in the future I could also be useful to members of the list.
>  Peter Thoren, PhD

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 16:16:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Many questions from me lately...

Peter,

I'm sure I speak for all of us here to say that we're happy to have you - don't
worry a bit about the questions you're asking.

As I always tell folks in circumstances like this - just do what you can when
you can and don't worry about anything else. Most (if not all) of us treat this
as it should be treated - good clean fun and a source of endless enjoyment.

I remember when I came to the lists myself  (4?? years ago or more?). I had just
bought the 109 that was to become mr. Churchill and lo, the endless stupid
questions that I asked.... I am embarassed now to look back at some of them -
but the learning curve and my background in engineering helped and eventually
Mr. C. became the paragon of Roverishness that he is today....and I too grew to
be able to help others.

Don't sweat it - we're glad to see you here.

                    Alan R.

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From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 08:24:11 +1000
Subject: Re:nut off of the pinion shaft

From: BEN_NIBALI@denso-diam.com
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 17:06:32 -0500
Subject: Impact Wrench on Pinion Nut
I am replacing (trying to replace) the oil seal on the rear pinion of my
1965 88".  It has the regular (non-Salisbury) dif.  I am having a hell of a
time getting the big (1-1/16") nut off of the pinion shaft.  I have been
hauling on it with a 1/2" socket wrench and soaking it in penetrating oil
in desperation for about 4 days now.  I have not gotten even the slightest
budge.  There is no corrosion and yes- I took the pin out.
I have an impact wrench but I am a little wary of unleashing it on the
pinion nut since the force would be resisted by all of the gears in the
dif.  I am afraid I will chip a tooth or wear a flat spot (S.P.O.T.) on a
gear or something.  Am I being overly cautious or should I let fly with the
impact wrench?
Any other methods I haven't thought of?

put a large socket and arm on the nut and slide a piece of pipe over the
arm, put the vehicle in neutral and gently roll the vehicle so that it
turns the nut against the socket (you will see whether to roll it forward
or backward by the way it turns)

if this doesn't work you have a very serious problem (you should have
already broken the socket and/or extension are and/or bent the pipe ;-)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Con P. Seitl" <conseitl@sprint.ca>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 17:36:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Many questions from me lately...

I hope you can all bear with me for some
> time and maybe in the future I could also be useful to members of the list.

>   Peter Thoren, PhD
>   Department of Genetics
>.
Hmmmm, maybe you can help.......What makes a guy love LR's so much? and
why do the women love us so much? Something in the genes? ;-)

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1991 RR "hers"

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 17:35:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Many questions from me lately...

On Tue, 19 Jan 1999 Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:
:but the learning curve and my background in engineering helped and eventually
:Mr. C. became the paragon of Roverishness that he is today..

Paragon of Roverishness?  Real Land-Rovers haven't got surfaces suitable
for use with lemon pledge.

furrfu,

David/ mr sinclair

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 15:32:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Parts score!

Sorry, only 88"'s there.

CIrvin1258@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 99-01-18 22:45:23 EST, you write:

> Jim,
> You didn't happen to see a nice 109 p/u chassis there, did you?

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 02:17:13 +0100
Subject: Re: Many questions from Peter lately...

Peter wrote:

Dear list,

I have, during the latest weeks, been asking a lot of questions
concerning
everything from strange blower motors to setting preload of the output
shaft bearing. I start to feel like I am only using the knowledge of
this
list without giving anything back.

------

Take it from someone who has asked as many dumb questions and offered as
many dumb answers as anyone on this list that your regular queries are
not only OK, they are welcome.

If someone else asks a question (dumb or not) the chances are, that if I
have time to read it, I will learn from both the question itself ("I'd
never thought of it that way before...") and the many answers (often
conflicting) which the letter provokes. I regard the problem postings as
a sort of almanac which most of us read before something goes wrong -
giving us a wealth of knowledge - or at least a consciousness of what
things we don't know, with which to tackle problems when they do occur.

<humour mode on>
There are only a few questions which, according to the unwritten
constitution of this pub, are almost prohibited - and even these appear
with regularity -

"How do I subscribe?"
"How do I unsubscribe?"
"Should I use grease or oil in my swivels?"
"Should we split the list?"
"Is Clinton guilty and if so will he get away with it?"

Otherwise the questions are yours for the asking.

As to getting better with experience, I doubt it! The first few years I
owned rovers, I just drove them, washed them, and filled the holes now
and again. Then I doscovered the "hobby-bit", and the more I play with
these small creatures, the more questions I find worth asking - Even
after 15 years and three virtually total rebuilds, I seem always to be
discovering new nooks and crannies which I hadn't opened before, and on
which the help of other roverites is invaluable.

So keep on asking....

:-)

Adrian Redmond

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:18:38
Subject: Alt. wiring

Sometime ago there was a web page complete with diagrams for wiring the GM
alt. conversion. I seem to have lost or someone deleted the url for this
site. Does anyone still have it and would you part with it or even another.
I am very visual, so I really need diagrams, photos etc. thanks

Jim Wolf

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 02:23:56 +0100
Subject: Glowing again but...

I went the whole hog and changed all four glow plugs tonight, finding
the latest blown cluprit in the process.

Plug #4 (the rearmost cylinder) had lost about 1-2mm of it's filament -
I am just hoping that it melted a week ago and was expunged in the
exhaust, and that there is not some small bit of glow plug rattling
around inside the cylinder.

Has anyone else seen this phenomena? What do diesel engine or glow plug
manufacturers recommend - or expect - when the glow plug failæs dropping
its detritus into the vulnerable crevices of the cylinder? Is the
recommended modus op. that of pulling the entire head to check, or does
one resort to not thinking about the problem, in the hope that it might
just go away?

It seems silly to pull the entire head to check if a glowplug-dropping
is in the pot, but on the other hand, if I lost a small screw through a
hole in the cyl. top I would probably have to open it and remove it.

What does the oracle(s) say about glowplug droppings?

Adrian Redmond

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:11:06 -0500
Subject: Re: splines

Bob and Sue Bernard wrote:

> It also had the frame made like a defender, two stamped U's welded
> together
> down the middle.

I remember reading somewhere that LR went to stampings for the series
frames in the early '70s after the RR was introduced. The RR had a
stamped frame from the beginning.

Regards,
David Cockey

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 00:38:25 EST
Subject: Re: Parts score!

In a message dated 99-01-19 17:42:01 EST, you write:

<< Sorry, only 88"'s there.
 >>

No worries: I discovered that a local bodyshop has a sign out, that reads
"Frame machine for rent"

...Maybe I'll ask about it. I found that my chassis is ONLY bent downwards
about 1", at the tip of the right bumper iron! (this in turn, is moving the
right side of my front axle aft about the same distance) So, if I can pull it
up far enough and weld it, it'll be driveable again.

Won't be pretty unless I can borrow a friends' mig welder to reconstruct the
bumper mounting point, but at least it'll be driveable.

Charles

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 09:00:51 +0200
Subject: Re: ball joint

John wrote re: bashing oxen

> rear diff they will bash back harder than you can imagine. BTDT.

BTDT!  There has to be a story there...

All the best,

Andy                          

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 08:57:09 +0200
Subject: Re: ball joint

Mike wrote, re: bashing ball joints.

> One has to ask...is this standard procedure with oxen as well?

No Mike you use 2 bricks and a special kind of scissors for 
detatching those parts of an oxen. 

All the best,

Andy

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 08:51:09 +0200
Subject: Re: Mild Tow Rig ...Too Much To Expect?

> Is it too much to expect a 2A 88 or 109 2.25 petrol to tow a 
> 16 foot sailing dinghy (~700 lb combined trailer/hull weight)
> 1300 miles, about half interstate road, at a legal safe speed?

Mark this is well within specs.  That's only about 320kg, about a 
third of the *internal* load carrying capacity of the 109 and less 
than a half of that of the 88....

Just to put your mind at rest I would have no hesitation in using 
either of the specified vehicles to tow the other on an 'A' frame or 
car trailer for as far as required.  The weights are probably in the 
order of 3,000lb for the 88 and 3700lb for the 109.  With those 
kinds of weight I'd be careful on *really* steep downhills, using low 
range as required to save the brakes.

> This is my annual retreat for which I expect to use a Rover
> ...I have never driven one ...am I too optimistic? 

Way pessimistic...  I think you'll hardly even know the trailer is 
there.  If you have a choice use the 109" as it is longer, heavier and 
thus a more stable towing platform.

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 02:31:52 -0500
Subject: Series door locks and UK suppliers...

   Anyone have a spare driver's side door striker for the intermediate
style door locks that came on the late SIIAs? It's not the old
non-antiburst style, and it's not the new anti-burst style that grabs the
striker pin. It's the style that has a hook that rotates down and into a
groove on the top of the striker. My truck had this style passenger side
and an older style driver side. 
   Although, given the status of availability on the intermediate style,
I'm thinking about getting a full new set of SIII locks with keys from the
UK. Can anyone direct me to a decent overseas supplier? The archives
indicate Paddocks is a good source.
  Along different lines, I'm thinking about picking up a heated rear glass
for the SIIA and I'm wondering if the item sold in the UK needs special
electronics, or do you just hook it to a switch (or timed unit)? Would
shipping on something like this be prohibitive?
  Thanks all!

Jeff Goldman
Boston, MA
http://www.gis.net/~roverboy

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 09:10:14 +0200
Subject: Re: Breaking free

BEN_NIBALI@denso-diam.com wrote:
 
>I am replacing (trying to replace) the oil seal on the rear pinion of my
#1965 88".  It has the regular (non-Salisbury) dif.  I am having a hell of
>a time getting the big (1-1/16") nut off of the pinion shaft.

>Any other methods I haven't thought of?

Ben I don't know if anyone has mentioned this but if you get a 
really big bar and socket, put it on the nut with the other end of the 
bar positioned so the chassis stops it rotating, and drive firmly but 
gently in the appropriate direction the nut will come undone.  You 
may need to take a little runup if the wheels just skid.  Oh and 
you'll need to have 4WD selected to give drive to the front wheels.

I have used this method successfully a few times. After you've 
done it once it doesn't feel so bad.

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

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(mail0.mailsender.net [209.132.1.30])
[spamkill: mailsend input: %s]	 Received: from tankong.com (209.63.113.197) by 
mail0.mailsender.net; 20 Jan 1999 00:02:05 -0800

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 00:07:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Erratic fuel gauge[multipart mime alternative 5 lines deleted.]

"Kent J. Shih" wrote:
8<
> with this fuel gauge?  Is it time to change my fuel sender unit?

Yes, probably.

> I am planning to install a separate Smiths fuel gauge.  Has any one
> successfully installed one of these gauges before?

I installed one in my SIIA, and it works like that of a brand new car.  I'm
quite pleased.  The unit came with a new sender, also.  I had recently replaced
the original dual wiper setup with a single unit, so I had an unused power
source on the right side of the vehicle.  I plugged that into a voltage
stabilizer and ran that into the guage and out to the sender via my own
(different) wire, then into the sender and on to ground.  This setup works
great, as I said before.   However, the installation of the gauge in the IIA
dash was pretty trivial compared to what you'll encounter in the SII with the
newer (i.e. padded) dash.  For me it was just get a plate, some bolts and drill
away.

C

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 09:29:20 +0000
Subject: Re: Many questions from me lately...

Peter Thoren wrote:

> I start to feel like I am only using the knowledge of this
> list without giving anything back. I hope you can all bear with me for some
> time and maybe in the future I could also be useful to members of the list.

Your questions and the like are the life-blood of the list, the
discussions they promote bring different views of common problems that
some may never have thought of before.
Even people with years of experience may have never had the problem you
ask about but someone who has only had a Landy for a week may have
solved just that problem.
So, keep 'em coming and we can all learn something.

"If you don't learn something new everyday, you're probably dead, or
should be!"
Quote from an old College Lecturer in electronics. 

Mick Forster
1972 109" Safari 2.25 petrol
1962 88" 2.25 petrol
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/landpics.html
http://members.aol.com/IssyJames/LRlinks/LRlinks.htm

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 10:33:43 +0000
Subject: Re: first start - diesel

>The Isuzu 3.9 diesel engine hasn't been run for this time as well. I'm new
>to diesels and would appreciate any tips on how to get her running. Nothing
>turned up in the archives apart from priming the fuel system.
Allen,
If it was me,I'd make sure that the heater plugs work OK.It may
be worth draining the fuel off and substituting fresh.I'm not
sure what happens to diesel that is left that long.It may also
be worth doing the same with the oil.Then I'd turn the engine
on the starter with the engine stop pulled out,possibly with
the heater plugs removed so I didnt sock the battery uneccessarily.
Id do this until the oil pressure warning light went out,ensuring
that the bearings etc had an oil supply.(I do this;heater plugs in;
on my 2.25 diesel after an oil change).
Then I'd replace the heater plugs,give it thirty seconds or so
on heat,and try to start it.Having said all that,you may have to
resort to tow starting:-(
Cheers
Mike Rooth

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 12:47:42 +0200
Subject: Re: first start - diesel

Allen wrote;

> >to diesels and would appreciate any tips on how to get her running. Nothing
> >turned up in the archives apart from priming the fuel system.

Allen in addition to what Mike said you can (in desperation) buy 
diesel engine quick start, which is pure diesel ether in a spray can. 
Squirt that in the air cleaner or inlet manifold and assuming there is 
compression it'll at least fire (with or without working heater plugs).  
I would not recommend that for every start, but a little squirted in 
on a once off basis shouldn't damage anything.  Having said that I 
am sure there are horror stories out there.  Not sure where you'd 
buy the product, but you can get diesel ether from a chemist or 
model airplane shop and stick it in a spray bottle if all else fails.

All the best,

Andy

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 11:22:05 +0000
Subject: Re: first start - diesel

>Allen wrote;
 which is pure diesel ether in a spray can.
>Squirt that in the air cleaner or inlet manifold and assuming there is
>compression it'll at least fire (with or without working heater plugs).
>I would not recommend that for every start.

Once and once only Andy.And even then in sheer bloody desperation.It
generates cripplingly high head pressures.A slightly kinder alternative
is to make a torch with rag wrapped around a suitable handle.Soak the
rag in paraffin (kerosene),light it,and hold it next to the air intake.
Old boy who used to work here told me that trick.He worked for John
Fowlers of Leeds during the war.Its how they used to start their
experimental V8 diesel in winter.Never went into production,more's
the pity.A photo of the prototype showed it was hand made.A truly
lovely piece of work.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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