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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 12:12:57 +0000
Subject: Re: first start - diesel

>Mike I did not know that one.  It is definitely a lot kinder.  Do you
>know why it works ~ is it the heat or the unburnt parraffin fumes?

The way George told me,it was the heat.Said it never failed.If I
was doing it to a series motor,though,I think I'd take the air
intake tube off the manifold first.
Cheers
Mike

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 99 13:42:50 -0500
Subject:  Xfer case mods again  

>Mr. Bobeck may never have engaged low range while the green hell is in 
>motion, but he has had his passanger do it for him.  

err... we was moving? Must have asked you to put it back up into hi...I 
remember those trails were pretty tame. My memory of those 3 days is a little 
fuzzy...although the other night I was blamed for inciting the chair tossin. 
Sorry wasn't me. Say Dave, email me off list wouldjya?

later
dave

"life is a bowl of even smaller bowls"

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 99 13:52:35 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Xfer case mods 

>non Dave, all my Landy's pop up the 4wd knob when the Hi/Lo selector hits
>neutral... unless... Oh damn! Does this mean I have to take the front 
>output shaft housings off AGAIN?

hmmm...this is interesting paul. I believe the *proper* set up is for the 
yellow lever to pop up when the red lever engages lo, as I stated before. I 
assume this is correct based on the number of confirming messages, and the fact 
that i am usually right (joke)...but...As I also said before, someone on this 
list had come up with a method for making the t-box work the way are suggesting 
it is supposed to, and that all of yours do. I would be interested to find out 
what is different about your set up, and how it works., Like I said I haven't 
really been into that part of the t-box so i don't really know what it is that 
makes it all work the way it does. Perhaps someone that has a better 
understanding of this could elaborate on this subject. You seem to undertand 
the wroknigs, perhaps you have some idea of what could make this different from 
one box to another. I do know there were two types of t-boxes (besides the SI 
freewheeling set up) one of which was all helical gears which came later I 
guess asd all the ones i've seen here in the states use straight cut gears as 
well as helical.
phew

later
dave, who would also like to be able to disengage 4wheel hi "on the fly".

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:50:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Head Trauma

I abolutely deny spouse abuse. I was giving her a lesson in Land Rover
appreciation.
Your Honour  Sir.
John and Muddy

Harald Hansen wrote:

> Hi!
> Paul Oxley wrote:
> > Peter Hope wrote:
> > > Hmm, maybe this is why my wife is ok with my rovers.  She has been kicked,
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 10 lines)]
> > were building our house - it was an accident, I swear it was!), and she
> > LOVES series Landys.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
> --
> Harald Hansen

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From: "steve.irwin" <steve.irwin@mci.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:58:41 -0500
Subject: Fuel-line and Zenith carb

Hello all-

An odd thing happened Saturday while I was at a local state park with some
friends.  We had just returned from hiking, and piled four adults and three
dogs into FEZZIK, my '73 S3 SWB.  We started out of the parking lot and had
traveled about 50 yards when the throttle pedal acted as if it weren't
delivering fuel to the carb, accompanied to the STRONG smell of gasoline.
Upon inspection, I discovered that the (for lack of better description)
"little metal pipe" on the carb where the fuel line hose-clamps onto had
pulled out of the carb, and was now dripping gasoline all over the place.

Naturally, I had removed my entire assortment of tools to make room in the
back for human and animals.  I had a swiss army knife and the lug-nut
wrench.  Fortunately, I was able to tap the "little metal pipe" back into
the carb, re-attach the fuel line, and nurse it home, to the amazement and
humor of my riders.

Now to the questions: Should the "little metal pipe" be welded or otherwise
held in place?  Or does friction just hold it in place?  Or has a PO done
some odd modifications?

Steve Irwin
'73 S3 SWB

Steve Irwin
Vnet 965-6236
(919) 378-6236

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From: Bas Timmers <9318860@law-fs3.leidenuniv.nl>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 15:35:48 +0100
Subject: Re: Fuel-line and Zenith carb

Hello Steve,

si> Naturally, I had removed my entire assortment of tools to make room in the
si> back for human and animals.  I had a swiss army knife and the lug-nut
si> wrench.  Fortunately, I was able to tap the "little metal pipe" back into
si> the carb, re-attach the fuel line, and nurse it home, to the amazement and
si> humor of my riders.

si> Now to the questions: Should the "little metal pipe" be welded or otherwise
si> held in place?  Or does friction just hold it in place?  Or has a PO done
si> some odd modifications?

The same thing happened to me once. I glued it back into place with a
two component glue 'Epoxy Metal' from Bison. Never came off again.

Bas Timmers
'74 S3 SWB

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@ibm.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:43:13 +0100
Subject: Re: Not Infant worthy

snip
>Does anyone out there have any info on toddlers and series LR?  Have
any of you mounted a baby seat in a 88.  Since it is a 88 I am
limited I
feel to the front.  I dont feel to comfortable about the rear bench. 
I need
some good ammo for the wife so any suggestion would be great.

I mounted a child seat (not infant) in the front of my lightweight.
Used to give the son of a friend rides. Not a problem. On the other
hand, I was never in an accident, so have no crash statistics.

My symapthies to you. Before my wife and I were married, I used to
drive with the Antichrist stripped, but my future wife said she was
uncommfortable without the doors, in case someone hit us. I made the
mistake of saying the doors were thin enough that if anyone hit us
that high, the doors wouldn't help much. She remembered that and
won't let our kids ride in it. :-(
Cheers.

Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA

Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@ibm.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:44:26 +0100
Subject: Re: first start - diesel

. There's a little electricly ignited diesel fuel burner in
>the intake that's fed from the injection pump supply line.
Which is fine until your fuel is waxed....:-(( Although not
|| such a problem these days.

Don't think glow plugs would work any beeter in that case. Or at
least their functioning would be all to naught.

Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA

Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.

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From: Ketil Kirkerud Elgethun <ketilk@a.sol.no>
Date: 25 Jan 1999 15:59:12 +0100
Subject: Re: Not Infant worthy

Steve Fullwood <ansdf@TTACS.TTU.EDU> writes:

> Well....... the wife says there is no way the baby is riding in the 1961
> SII
> 88".

Pity.

>  I suppose it would not be the smoothest  vehicle for a baby.

So ? Babies (at least the ones I've met, including mine) usually LOVE
to be moved around a bit.

> Have any
> of you mounted a baby seat in a 88.

Well, I've got a 109, but as the baby seat is in the front passenger
position, I'd guess it would work well in an 88". It's mounted using the
standard mounting hardware that came with the seat, no problems.
Basically, it just works, and my son loves it ! He's been transported
in the Land-Rover since he was about 3 days old... For longer trips 
(> 30 minutes) he normally falls asleep, then wakes up when I stop the
car.

The really good thing about using a Land-Rover for transporting my son
is that while a baby is a fairly small package, all the paraphernalia
that goes with him _do_ take up some space. Who cares ? The Land-Rover
is large enough.

-- 
---Ketil Kirkerud Elgethun
   1979 109", 1971 88" (parts car), 1969 109" (Project), 1999 110" Td5 ?

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 99 07:01:00 -0800
Subject: Re: TAW Picture

>When at Greek Peak last year, someone from LRO obviously took a lot of
>pictures.  Along with that one of TAW, there are three more pictures from GP
;>in the Readers' Rovers section. 

WHAT!!!!

The largest Land Rover meet ever in North America and all LRO could 
manage was a few readers rigs articles?????????????

I mean I'm happy that they decided to put my car in the mag, but I hoped 
for better coverage of the biggest North American event ever.  ANARC put 
a lot of work into the event to make it successful.  A lot of people came 
from all over to participate.  Well over 300 Rovers at one place may not 
mean much to seasoned UK rover meet goers, but if you realize that North 
America could swallow a couple of Europes whole and not notice it, had NO 
LR sales between 1974 and 1994, and that Land Rovers are rare cars in 
North America, getting over 300 of them together in one place was a major 
accomplishment for ANARC and for the participants.

I had really hoped for more out of LRO INTERNATIONAL.

Anyway LRO, thanks for the reader's rig mention. I don't mean to belittle 
that.  It's just that there was SO much more at the ANARC national meet 
then four people's Rovers.

I know it was half a year ago but THANK YOU ANARC organizers!  I thought 
it was a great meet and I had a wonderful time.  just let me bring my 
Wolfhound next time...please.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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From: chsteven@aerotek.com
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 10:02:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Weber carb

It's easy to mount and well worth the time and money. Just use your existing
"choke on" light--no reason to mount that silly Weber-supplied thing. The
original oil bath air cleaner fit fine on mine. I rebuilt my Zenith at leat two
times and still it never ran right. It has been my experience that the Weber
gives a tad less "top end" by is soooo much more dependable it's a good
trade-off.

Chris Stevens
Towson, MD

> I've been told that the Webber being
> smaller diameter works more efficiently at lower rpm's while the Zenith is
> better at the upper end of the rpm scale.  Any truth to this?

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 10:16:34 EST
Subject: Re: TAW Picture

In a message dated 1/25/99 8:01:20 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
twakeman@cruzers.com writes:

<< I had really hoped for more out of LRO INTERNATIONAL. >>

Don't overreact!  There was an article in LROI but I can't remember if it was
in this one or an earlier one.  

Cheers,
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 99 07:29:04 -0800
Subject: Re: Early Series llA Breakfast, radiator panel

>Why does the right side hole in my radiator panel (the left side of the
>radiator panel as you look at it from the front of the vehicle) have it's
;>own fine mesh screen which is neatly held in place with two screws?  
There
;>isn't one protecting the other side.  I'm curious whether this is a 
standard
;>piece or not.

The series II & early IIA radiator panels have three air holes.  There is 
the central rectangular hole between the headlamps, a small rectangular 
hole on the left side below the left headlamp, and a small rectangular or 
circular hole on the right side under the right headlamp.  If the car was 
fitted from the factory with a certain version of Kodiak heater, it was 
also fitted with a radiator panel that had the round bottom right hole.  
This round hole was the fresh air, dust, leaf, bug and water intake for 
this version of Kodiak heater.

The grill that is correct for both versions of the early radiator panel 
has an inverted 'T' shape.  This grill covers the centre opening AND the 
two smaller openings below the headlamps.

I'm storing an original unrestored '65 Dormobile at my house for a 
friend.  It has the round opening for the Kodiak air intake behind the 
grill.  It does not have any other screen over the heater air intake.  It 
does not have any holes to hold a screen.  

My series II has the rectangular hole on both sides.  There were no 
additional holes to mount an additional screen over ether of the small 
holes.

You didn't say but I would guess you have the circular hole that had the 
intake for the heater and a previous owner added a screen to filter the 
leafs and bugs off the heater core.

I hope this answers your question.

Take care

TeriAnn Wakeman                                  Border to Border
Santa Cruz, California                          Expedition Society 
twakeman@cruzers.com                           "Live the adventure"
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman           http://www.bordertoborder.com

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 15:28:41 +0000
Subject: Re: first start - diesel

>Don't think glow plugs would work any beeter in that case. Or at
>least their functioning would be all to naught.
Now why didnt I think of that?:-)

Mike Rooth

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 17:10:48 +0200
Subject: Re: Fuel-line and Zenith carb

> Now to the questions: Should the "little metal pipe" be welded or otherwise
> held in place?  Or does friction just hold it in place?  Or has a PO done

Should be a push fit.

All the best,

Andy

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 99 10:37:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel-line and Zenith carb 

>Now to the questions: Should the "little metal pipe" be welded or otherwise 
>held in place?  Or does friction just hold it in place?  Or has a PO done 
>some odd modifications?

Probably just friction. Usually if it is a compression fitting of some sort 
there will be a nut around it. Try refitting it with a drop of blue loctite. 

good job on the roadside repair, always amuses the passengers.

later
dave

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 11:04:46 -0500
Subject: Babes in Rovers

Steve Fullwood wrote:

>Does anyone out there have any info on toddlers and series LR?...I need
>some good ammo for the wife so any suggestion would be great.

Well, the only real young 'un to ride in my Rover was my nephew...he was 5
months at the time...now a college grad with a dream job with state of
California checking on snowpack, catching fish and gettin' paid for it.

He was going through this crying jag...absolutly inconsolable for no
apparent reason...except when riding in the Rover.  No other vehicle would
do - absolute quiet whilst moving.  Come to a stop light, he would howl;
get going, he would immediately quiet down.  Stop for a stop sign, more
protests.  We put a lot of miles on my Rover goin' nowhere.... Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  |                                                   |
  |   (original owner)        (pre-production)        | 
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 11:04:45 -0500
Subject: New stuff

Bill Lawrence DNDANGER@aol.com wrote:

>Yes, it had a large diameter wire reinforced fabric tube that ran right
>under the battery support. needless to say its life span is somewhat
>limited.

Just the other day, I replaced the dryer vent tube at the house.  Bought
some all-aluminium tubing at the hardware store for about $3.  An 18"
length accordians out to 4' or more.  Better yet, once you bend it into
position, is stays there instead of flopping around like the
wire-reinforced fabric. Pro'lly just the ticket for the "forced air heater
induction" system.  I'll use the same stuff on the boat to repalce the
bilge/blower vent tube....

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  |                                                   |
  |   (original owner)        (pre-production)        | 
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "oldhaven" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 11:07:22 -0500
Subject: Ambulance owners

Just a quick request.  I'm trying to get an idea of the number of Series LR 
ambulances currently in North America and maybe around the world.  I know 
there are a lot in the UK, but probably not elsewhere.  I have been in 
touch with two other owners here in the US and one in Germany, and will 
probably eventually put together a low tech e-mail list for questions and 
comments, camper mods, etc. .  If you have one of these or know of someone 
with one would you drop me a line if you/they are interested?  I have 
already talked to Steve, Cole and Axel.  Some of the GS regulars sold by RN 
recently are former ambulances without the body by the way, so they might 
have some interest in being on the list.

Ron Franklin
'71 SIIA 2/4 stretcher Battle Ambulance ex Territorial Army, our planned 
expedition vehicle for the next Millenium, or possibly an extra in the next 
Mad Max film.

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

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From: "jos de vries" <ct915434@student.citg.tudelft.nl>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 17:38:52 +0100
Subject: Re: Ambulance owners

Ron wrote: 
' I know there are a lot in the UK, but probably not elsewhere'.  

there where a lot SIII ambulance diesel sold to the dutch army in
1977/1978.
so try the eu-lro list.

Jos de Vries
Delft, The Netherlands

Santana 109 SW '71 D
Land Rover 88 ex-mod '75 P

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From: "David Hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 10:46:25 -0600
Subject: Early llA grill

TerriAnn, you have answered my question, thank you.

There is a circular piece behind the small grill which is the same size as
the air inlet for the Kodiak heater.  This explains where the fresh air for
the heater is meant to come from.

Needless to say the current source of fresh air is the engine bay and this
explains why the vehicle smells like an engine when the heater is working.

David Hope

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From: "David Hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 10:51:16 -0600
Subject: Long generator stud

I cannot get the stud that goes through the engine block and holds the
generator/dyamo in place to move.  Mine was bent and badly rusted before I
started, so it had to be replaced.

I've removed the radiator, I've hit the stud with a hammer as hard as I have
room for, I've heated it with a Sears propane bottle and I've soaked it with
a  Permatex rust removing product.

Any ideas before I give up?

David Hope
64llA

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From: "Andy Woodward" <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 17:00:26 -0000
Subject: Roof top tents

\Anyone out there have any experience with roof top tents? The 
\600+ukp 
\required to buy a Brownchurch folding tent seem a lot of money for 
\the 
\size of tent you are actually getting.

!!!!!!!6000QUID!!!!!!!!

Damned right I dont have any experience of it! What would I do? 
Board teh roofrack with plywood. Put a few rings in and buy a top 
quality climbers hoop tent with a ground plan that'll fit teh rack for a 
thrid/half hte price ...........

Or just pitch the tent direct on teh roof and lash the peg holes 
(gentlyish) to teh 'load hooks' at teh bottom of teh hardtop 
sidepanels (been there, done that with a 2 man Ultimate Peapod - 
worked fine)

>.

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From: "Andy Woodward" <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 17:00:26 -0000
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Xfer case mods 

\The above applies to any of the conventional transfer cases; I'm 
\not 
\sure quite how it would affect the epicyclic gears in the chain 
\driven 
\'box as found on Rangies.

Works OK on an LT77 on a 90.

\In the real world I have only ever gone from 1st high to 1st low in 

The easiest shift on smoothish terrain is high 1st to low 3rd  or high 
seciond to low 4th (if you are in deep and lose lots of speed, these 
will be modified.......)

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From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 11:01:52 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Long generator stud

On Mon, 25 Jan 1999, David Hope wrote:
> Subject: Long generator stud
> I cannot get the stud that goes through the engine block and holds the
> generator/dyamo in place to move.  Mine was bent and badly rusted before I
> started, so it had to be replaced.

if you have access to air: 
air impact -- not on high torque setting, just let the impact tool work
on it for 30-45 seconds on a much lower setting.
> Subject: Long generator stud

Sincerely,
Ray Harder 

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 13:06:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Long generator stud

Use you propane if it is a newer style that gets hotter or find an acetylene
welding set
and get a squirt bottle filled with water. Heat the bolt as hot as you
can(without melting) then shoot water on it to cool it rapidly repeat at least 6
times then try to move it again. repeat as needed.
John and Muddy
David Hope wrote:

> I cannot get the stud that goes through the engine block and holds the
> generator/dyamo in place to move.  Mine was bent and badly rusted before I
> started, so it had to be replaced.
> I've removed the radiator, I've hit the stud with a hammer as hard as I have
> room for, I've heated it with a Sears propane bottle and I've soaked it with
> a  Permatex rust removing product.
> Any ideas before I give up?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Any ideas before I give up?
> David Ho

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 12:08:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Long generator stud

Stuck bolt:

If heating and pounding doesn't work then just drill the damn thing out. In the
vast majority of cases the drill will follow the bolt if started squarely.

Long-shank drills are available in most good hardware stores fairly
inexpensively (4-5 bucks).

                         ajr

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From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 00:08:37 -0700
Subject: Re: TAW Picture

>Don't overreact!
She's a woman, this is what they do.

  There was an article in LROI but I can't remember if it was
>in this one or an earlier one.
The article on GP was in a few months ago.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
				Dennis Miller

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 99 10:51:32 -0800
Subject: Re: TAW Picture

>  There was an article in LROI but I can't remember if it was
>>in this one or an earlier one.
>The article on GP was in a few months ago.

Sorry I missed the article.  I remembered there being talk of a one or 
two pager back when, that people said was largely a put down on the 
organizers, full of goer's complaints and really did not cover the event. 
 I gathered from what people were writing that the "real" article about 
the event was still in progress.  That was the last I remember.

So what is life without passion????

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From: "Russell G. Dushin" <rgdushin@blackcat.cat.syr.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 13:52:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: long generator bolt

David Hope writes:

*** I cannot get the stud that goes through the engine block and holds the
generator/dyamo in place to move.  Mine was bent and badly rusted before I
started, so it had to be replaced. I've removed the radiator, I've hit the
stud with a hammer as hard as I have room for, I've heated it with a Sears
propane bottle and I've soaked it with a Permatex rust removing product.
Any ideas before I give up?
***

Next to frozen shackle pins, this is one of the most PITA jobs you
can get yourself into...

You've removed the radiator but have you removed the entire breakfast?
You might have to in order to get enough room to swing a big ol' 
hammer in there or (as Al suggested) to get a good "square-on" with
a drill.  When I had this problem (same cause...bent bolt) I had
to remove the breakfast, use heat, lube, and all the swing I could
muster with a hammer and long "suitable drift."  That bastard was
in there and had become one with the block.

Might also help to remove the front piece(s) on the block that this
long bolt rides through. Since you've got a '64 methinks it could be
either type...a one piece aluminium triangular jobby or two pieces of
pressed steel.  The former (earlier) type probably cannot be removed
until the generator is out (or busted in the rear mount) but the later
two piece version might come out without genny removal.  In any case,
getting the front mounting bits out of the way might make it easier
to (at least) spritz some lube in there.

As mentioned by others, heat (the case around the frozen bolt) should
help, and so should a bigger hammer...

r"or swearing at the top of your lungs"d/nige

ps make sure your new bolt fits!  Mine, from RN, didn't and I had to
take it down a bit with emory cloth.  Also, use plenty of anti-sieze
on it, and then some.

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From: Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 14:03:03 -0500
Subject: Lucas News

MAJOR COMPANY/INDUSTRY NEWS: (All prices as of 1:05 p.m. ET) ** British
auto parts manufacturer LUCASVARITY PLC (LVA: 42-5/8, + 6-3/8) has
rejected a proposed takeover by U.S. rival FEDERAL-MOGUL CORP. (FMO:
61-5/8, - 1-5/8) at 280 pence per Lucas Varsity share, the U.S. company
said on Monday. Federal-Mogul said LucasVarity had refused to enter into
discussions with Federal-Mogul after being approached about a takeover
bid comprised of 50% cash and 50% Federal-Mogul stock.

Peter Goundry
67 GS 109" IIA, 73 Lightweight, 97 D90 #127

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From: Ian Mitchell <imitchel@chopin.fis.puc.cl>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 16:19:09 -0800
Subject: Re:Rooftop tents

Hi

Couldn't agree more with Andy Woodward's advice. Did a year long trip in
Africa a couple of years ago and our budget certainly didn't extend to a
Brownchurch rooftop tent. In fact we boarded the top of our roofrack,
bought a very cheap tent (about 50 pounds) and bungeed it via its
pegging points to the roofrack. It worked fine and what's more, you have
a tent to use independant of the Landie which was preferrable when
possible.

We met a couple who had bought an aforementioned roof top tent and after
the first lot of rains, the material shrunk and they had nothing but
problems with it from then on. (Zips not closing, material ripping etc.)
When in South Africa we met lots of people who had a make of rooftop
tent which they sang the praises of. It was also a bit cheaper than the
Brownchurch, but I can't remember the name of it.

Anyway, 600 quid is a lot of lollie and you could get an excellent
'normal' tent for a lot less than that.

Have fun
Ian

--
Dr. Ian H Mitchell
Facultad de Fisica
Pontificia Universidad Catolica de Chile
Santiago

Tel + 56 2 686 4985

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From: "Emil King" <ewader@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 11:34:35 PST
Subject: A-bars

Does anyone have a front A-bar on your truck that you could measure for 
me.  I'm trying to fit one to a vehicle for which I cannot find one.  
How about the distance from the farthest left mounting bolt to the 
farthest right, and the height from bumper to the top tube.  Also, 
what's the price range for these, where can they be located in the 
States, and does it have light tabs.  Thanks a bunch.

BTW, they're the type of bars found on D90s and Discos usually....

Emil

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 15:05:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Long generator stud

If you decide to drill the bugger - get it right in the middle, and start
small, moving up in drill size.  I had to do a couple of bolts this way -
eventually I could pull the old bolt threads out with a pliers, like a
little spring.  Do you need to use that hole again?
(Don't mean to offend but - you know how to get the speed and pressure
right to drill metal?  I used to do it the wrong way - much more satisfying
to see the spirals of metal come off the bit.)
G'Luck - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: st93wxta@drexel.edu
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 15:06:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Long generator stud

According to Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>:
> If you decide to drill the bugger - get it right in the middle, and start 
> small, moving up in drill size.  I had to do a couple of bolts this way - 
> eventually I could pull the old bolt threads out with a pliers, like a 
> little spring.  Do you need to use that hole again? 
> (Don't mean to offend but - you know how to get the speed and pressure 
> right to drill metal?  I used to do it the wrong way - much more satisfying 
> to see the spirals of metal come off the bit.) 
> G'Luck - Peter 

Inquiring minds want to know, what's your trick for drilling metal Peter?

Casey M

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From: "HENRY STAGE"<henry.stage@smtp.cnet.navy.mil>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 14:48:54 -0600
Subject: Rover babies

     Go for it.  Strap the little bugger into his car seat  and bungee cord 
     it down to the spare on the hood. Heck, adults pay good money for a 
     thrill ride that good!
        Seriously though, think about it, all mom is for the first 9 months 
     is a bi-ped baby bouncing transportation unit.  Infants generally love 
     the motion.  I used to take mine sailing out on San Francisco bay in 
     30 knots + (daily wind conditions) and I would look down into the 
     cabin as we beat up from Alcatraz to the Golden Gate with the boat 
     bucking like a bronco (NOT the F*&d product!) and the little guys 
     would be grinning ear to ear or sawing logs.
        I still would rather have my two boys strapped into the back of my 
     rover than their mothers little nissan wagon/shoebox. With an 
     ambulance the law of gross tonnage (whoever has the most wins) 
     generally puts me in the advantage!
     
     May you hae healthy bairns, and watch out fa the oxen ha'shaft!
     
     cole stage
     Hefelump mahout

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 99 13:04:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Early Series llA Breakfast, radiator panel

I was out working on my TR3's clogged fuel line problem when I took a 
minute to look at my guest Dormobile in the daylight.

I was wrong in what I said.  There is indeed a wire grill over the round 
opening for the kodiak front vent opening and there are indeed two screws 
by the round opening.

Sorry my only excuse is that it was still dark when I walked out to look 
and it was before my morning cup of tea.  I really should not do e-mail 
before my first morning cup of tea or after dinner wine.

They say night vision is the second thing to go when you get older.  I 
forget what the first is.

Sorry

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 16:43:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: so, I'm an idiot

Suppose one did something really stupid, like say, forgeting to tighten
one's lugnuts, after doing some brake work.  Suppose then, because of
this, they fell off, and lacking its usual retainers, the wheel left the
hub at highway speed.  Hypothetically,  then, what sort of damage would
one look for?  

david/ Mr. Sinclair -- new! improved! with four wheels!

ps Land-Rovers are slow, but getting passed by your own tires is downright
embarassing!

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From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 16:36:08 EST
Subject: east coast rovers PH#?

would anyone happen to have east coast rovers phone number?
please email direct .
TIA , rick

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 17:12:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Long generator stud / Drilling

>Inquiring minds want to know, what's your trick for drilling metal Peter?
>Casey M

No trick...
I did it wrong for a long time,
and just thought you needed to keep buying new bits.
Not true (to some extent, anyway).

I was probably drilling just a grade 5 bolt - i.e. soft.
If you have something like grade 8, it is harder and more brittle.
If it's hardened - forget about it.
Anyway, I just use HSS drills, split point to help prevent wandering.
I start by filing the bolt head off, and then filing to a flat surface.
Put crosshairs in the middle with a scribe, measure if you have to.
Then use a punch right in the crosshairs, to start the drill.

'Course, all this may be excessive, or hard to do under your Al friend, but...

Smaller drills require higher speeds, etc...

Push the on the drill, make sure it is righted in both directions,
and slowly bring the speed up.
When the force and speed are right,
the metal should spiral out and look like fusilli pasta,
or a spring or what have you.
If the force and speed are not right, the drill bit will chatter,
and you will get chips, and dull your bits in no time flat (pun intended).

Drilling plastics or brass properly require a modified bit or cutting tool.
In that case, the material will only chip away,
and the tool bit modification allows this.

Oil, oil, more oil, and still, more oil!!
(Nothing like the smell of burnt 20W50!!)

Starting small and going up in size makes each bit cut less metal,
so it is easier on all of them, and you'll be less likely to break one of them.
Stop on a size under the "shaft daimeter" of the bolt,
so you don't cut into the surrounding threads

Last I did this, I was off center a bit.
I was still able to remove the rusted threads, like a spring,
but maybe I was lucky...

Practice on a block of Al.
Once you get it to spiral off, it is quite fun!

Cheers - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 17:19:03 -0500
Subject: Re: so, I'm an idiot

Hypothetically - Ow, Ouch, OW, OW, OUCH!!!
Damn that must hurt!!  Front or rear, do tell...
Your poor hypothetical drum and backing plate!
Did your diff drag, hypothetically speaking, of course?
Band-Aids, Land Rover Sized, Maybe??

Cheers - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 14:23:19 -0800
Subject: RE: so, I'm an idiot

What hits first, the drum or the bottom of the spring retainer plate?  Guess
you're glad you did up the brake drum retainer screws eh?  I could just
picture the wheel rolling off into the sunset followed by the brake drum...

Glad nobody was injured.  The wheel could do some serious damage if it hit
an on-coming car!

Paul in Victoria.

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 99 17:30:16 -0500
Subject: Re: so, I'm an idiot 

>Suppose one did something really stupid, like say, forgeting to tighten 
>one's lugnuts, after doing some brake work.  Suppose then, because of 
>this, they fell off

hmmm....almost had this happen. sort of wondered why the drums were so 
out of round and where all those noises were coming from. Not using the 
brake drum screws makes this more likely then usual. No flame wars 
please.

>, and lacking its usual retainers, the wheel left the hub at highway 
>speed.  Hypothetically,  then, what sort of damage would one look for?  

ummm...mostly contusions, scarring and evidence of impacts to the cranial 
region, lazy eye, vacant stare, LR ownership, the whole head injury 
"enchilada"...

seriously, uh, bent backing plates, cracked or otherwise brake drums, munged up 
steering arms, bent rim, or messed up lug nut holes in the wheels and also wear 
on the wheel studs.

>ps Land-Rovers are slow, but getting passed by your own tires is downright 
>embarassing!

especially if you left your car at home...

later
dave

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[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 20:52:27 -0000
Subject: Re: Not Infant worthy
	charset="iso-8859-1"

first off I have a video of a baby (my granddaughter - about 18months =
old) fast asleep in her mothers arms in the back of a 109 during an =
off-road trip......
secondly, in the UK, baby seats are usually bolted securely into the =
centre seat space... many a current Land Rover driver had their first =
ride in on in one, if you see what I mean....
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+           
     I !__|  [_]|_\___  
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------=_NextPart_000_00B4_01BE48A4.9DB6EC80
	[ Original post was HTML ]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; ]

	[Attachment  removed, was 41 lines.]	

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 99 17:36:06 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Long generator stud / Drilling 

>Last I did this, I was off center a bit.
>I was still able to remove the rusted threads, like a spring, 
>but maybe I was lucky...

peter is right, using this technique your chances of succes are greatly 
improved. One step further is to use a set of left hand bits that work counter 
clockwise. Often times they catch and pull the screw right out for you.
later
dave

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 19:09:18 -0400
Subject: Re: so, I'm an idiot

The kind of damage would depend on what the wheel hit.:)
John and Muddy

David Scheidt wrote:

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 19:10:27 -0400
Subject: Re: so, I'm an idiot

The kind of damage would depend on what the wheel hit. :)
John and Muddy

David Scheidt wrote:

> Suppose one did something really stupid, like say, forgeting to tighten
> one's lugnuts, after doing some brake work.  Suppose then, because of
> this, they fell off, and lacking its usual retainers, the wheel left the
> hub at highway speed.  Hypothetically,  then, what sort of damage would
> one look for?
> david/ Mr. Sinclair -- new! improved! with four wheels!
> ps Land-Rovers are slow, but getting passed by your own tires is downright
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> ps Land-Rovers are slow, but getting passed by your own tires is downright
> embarassi

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@ibm.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 18:46:04 +0100
Subject: Re: so, I'm an idiot

snip
>ps Land-Rovers are slow, but getting passed by your own tires is
downright
>embarassing!

Sounds like a GENUINE cadidate for The Lugnut Award. What say Dixon?

ps happened to me years back in my Travelall, but it was a wheel
bearing that went south that caused it.

Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA

Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 18:34:58 EST
Subject: Re: so, I'm an idiot

In a message dated 1/25/99 2:24:27 PM Pacific Standard Time, Paul_Quin@pml.com
writes:

<< Glad nobody was injured.  The wheel could do some serious damage if it hit
 an on-coming car! >>
The day before Thanksgiving 1989, I met a loose tire on the freeway at about
55 mph.  I spotted it ahead while doing 70 or so and there was traffic
adjacent to my lane.  Braking heavily, I dropped the speed until I felt there
was no more time whereupon I lifted the brake pedal, to allow the nose to rise
up after dipping from braking.  The tire was rolling directly to me, and
lodged upright under my front bumper.  Something like slapping a rolling coin,
the tire didn't fall over but continued under the vehicle still upright.  as
it passed under the front half of the vehicle to the center of mass, the
resultant forces sent me airborne and as it rolled out the back a slight
forward rotation.  I looked down from the drivers seat into the bed of the
highly lifted truck next to me.  Bed Contents: Spare Tire and Hi-Lift and some
leaves.  I flew about 100 feet and landed in a nose down attitude with some
frame and body damage.   An astoundingly interesting few minutes and the tire
left a track down the center of the destroyed Peugot.  If I'd been driving my
series, I d have had no problems at all I'm sure.

Zack Arbios

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From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 19:03:30 -0500
Subject: Re: head injuries (was oxen) (was ball j

D.h.lowe,

<< I seem to remember it as a Silver Cross which had leave springs , leather
shackles and 18" dia wheels. >>

 I still remember Mum putting shopping in the void under the decking the baby 
(my brother) was laying on. This used to take place outside the local (tiny by 
today
s standards) Sainsburys. This was not a supermarket, but had staff behind long 
counters.
 
 As I remember it the pram had a deep glossy lustrous paint.. Unlike most 
Landies!
 
 Reminiscence mode= Off.
 
Paul

Ex- H.M. Coastguard SIII SWB
"Dougal Mc Landie"
B895 OJT (1984)
(Navy Blue with a Yellow Roof)

 

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From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 20:12:33 -0500
Subject: Re: so, I'm an idiot

>From what I've been told you should hear a sort squeaking scraping sound
from the wheel before you get to the highway - it niggles at you until the
light dawns.  
There are a number of LR safety-reminder sounds. Leaving the socket wrench
on the crankshaft pulley after adjusting the tappets, and then starting up,
is one of the best. Apparently there is no way of missing that one. At
least that is what I have heard. 
Allan

At 16:43 25/01/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Suppose one did something really stupid, like say, forgeting to tighten
>one's lugnuts, after doing some brake work.  

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From: Steve West-Fisher <steve@coastaldatasystems.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 20:33:54 -0500 (EST)
Subject: test -- ignore

After rerouting mail, the list has gone dead and I'm afraid I've created a mail
loop.
E-Mail: Steve West-Fisher <steve@coastaldatasystems.com>
Date: 25-Jan-99
Time: 20:32:39

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 99 17:44:20 -0800
Subject: Re: so, I'm an idiot

>Hypothetically,  then, what sort of damage would one look for?  
;
The one time it happened to me, the left rear wheel came of my new used 
'63 VW bug.  It passed me on the left & kept on going down a creek.  
There was damage to the shock & that was it.  The c^Aar had hub caps and 
the lug bolts were safley storred in the hubcap.

The dealer I purchased the car from did some work before I brought her 
home & had the rear wheels off.  So professionals forget to tighTen them 
too.

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: "Con P. Seitl" <conseitl@sprint.ca>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 22:42:42 -0400
Subject: Re: so, I'm an idiot

David Scheidt wrote:
> Suppose one did something really stupid, like say, forgeting to tighten
> one's lugnuts, after doing some brake work.  Suppose then, because of
> this, they fell off, and lacking its usual retainers, the wheel left the
> hub at highway speed.  Hypothetically,  then, what sort of damage would
> one look for?

>.
   Ego.....BTDT....1964 VW bug....

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1991 RR "hers"

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 22:00:24 -0500
Subject: Patched Al Corrosion / Military Paint (?)

	I had a sucessful time at patching the corrosion damage on my bed,
along each side, where the military had riveted steel reinforcements to
bolt tie down points to.  I removed said steel evilness, and sandblasted,
gently, the paint and corrosion down to bare Al.  Cleaned all with acetone,
and then cut pieces of nylon screening for each hole, some of which were
big enough for my entire hand.  I cut the patches first to save time while
using the Al filled epoxy putty.  I then used the putty to hold the patches
on the back side.  I let it all dry for a day or so, then I puttied in the
screening from the outside, and let dry for another day - then I sanded it
all flush.  Came out real nice - I'll need to sand it all again, and maybe
smooth things out with some more putty, before I have it painted.  Now it
is not quite as smooth as an original panel, but very close.

	Damn, the paint I had to get off that thing!!  It must have been a
mm thick!  There were about three coats, with primers in between.  It was
damn hard, I needed to wire wheel it off in addition to sandblasting.
Anybody know what type of paint the military would have used - it's a '65
IIA - bronze green.

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 17:17:50 -1000
Subject: Re: east coast rovers PH#?

http://www.eastcoastrover.com/
East Coast Rover Co.
21 Tolman Road
Warren, ME 04864 USA
207-594-8086
fax: 207-594-8120
email: ecrover@midcoast.com

>would anyone happen to have east coast rovers phone number?
>please email direct .

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From: "david hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 21:56:45 -0600
Subject: Drilling out a generator fixing stud

Peter M. Kaskan asked in such a polite way if I knew how to drill out a
metal bolt  - "Don't mean to offend but - you know how to get the speed and
pressure right to drill metal?  I used to do it the wrong way - much more
satisfying to see the spirals of metal come off the bit"

Actually, Peter I do not know or at least I have received no formal training
in this area.  So, do please enlighten me.  I presume that you drill fairly
slowly with a sharp bit moving, as you say, from a small to a larger bit?

I was in a machine shop last year and I remember they had set a drill up for
a large drilling job in some kind of stand and just left it running and they
were lubricating or cooling it as well.  Do you need to keep the bit oiled?

Lastly, will my Sears electric drill be up to the job?  It claims a max. rpm
of 1200/minute, has a 3/8in bit and is 1/3HP.

David Hope

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 23:06:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: so, I'm an idiot

On Mon, 25 Jan 1999, Peter M. Kaskan wrote:

:Hypothetically - Ow, Ouch, OW, OW, OUCH!!!
Not quite what I said....

:Damn that must hurt!!  Front or rear, do tell...
:Your poor hypothetical drum and backing plate!
:Did your diff drag, hypothetically speaking, of course?

It was the left front that came off, which at least keeps the diff out of 
the way.  The two things I noticed while driving the short distance with
three wheels were that the braking was much improved, and the steering
didn't change much.  I was on the bit of highway leading from the Holland
Tunnel to the NJ Turnpike, which is a raised dual carrage way, with a
proper breakdown lane, thank god.  The concrete barriers also kept the
wheel from getting lost.  I was going the speed I shift into 4th
overdrive, so maybe 45 or 50.  My first thought was, I just put on a spare
and drive away.  Then I realized that if the wheel had come off, so had
the lugnuts.  Doh!  

I then thought of the old joke.  A man has a flat on the road leading past
the grounds of an insane asylum.  While he is changing the tire, a
resident comes up to the fence and starts talking to him.  Shocked, he
spills the hubcap containg the lugnuts into the ditch.  He wonders what he
should do.  The crazy guy tells him to take one from each of the other
wheels, and put it on that one.  The motorist says that is a good idea.
The crazy guy says "They put me in here because I am crazy, not because I
am stupid."  

I happened to have a spare lug and nut on the dashboard, and with the
three I stole from the other wheels, I had four on each.  I can assure you
that they are all on nice and tight.  I haven't noticed any problems,
either on the 40 mile trip the rest of the way home, or to and from work
today.   I don't even think I lost any of the weights off the runaway
wheel.

david

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[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- 
=_NextPart_000_01BE48BA.3759C6E0" ]
From: Jim Fraser <fraserj@webhart.net>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 23:27:00 -0500
Subject: RE: Series 1s and Isuzus 

Thanks for the info, Peter.  I'm planning on going through the tranny =
assembly and check /replace parts as required, so hopefully everything =
in there will be in good shape.  Yes, I believe you are probably right =
about the noise issue, have you ever considered some of the high quality =
sound deadeners/thermal barriers that are available at the speed shops?  =

Jim Fraser

'53 80"

----------
From: 	Peter Venters[SMTP:peter@hoiho.demon.co.uk]
Reply To: 	lro@playground.sun.com
Sent: 	January 24, 1999 3:21 PM
Subject: 	Series 1s and Isuzus

Jim Fraser asked whether his 53 80" tranmission will survive the 68hp =
and
130lbft roque of an Isuzu 2.2l disiesel...

Jim, I can't really say for a pre-54 vehicle, but for what it is worth I
had no trouble with the original transmission on my 55 86" when I put in =
a
LR 2.25 diesel (67bhp, 125 lbft). And in any case, from what I recall =
when
I last went round this loop, the only later transmission which is any
stronger is the 2a (the S3 tranmission is weaker cos they crammed in
namby-pamby synchromesh on first and second).

Since then I've now done about 20-30K miles so far with a well =
refurbished
2a box suffering under the full onslaught of 85 bhp and 150lbft from a
Perkins 4.182 - so far it all still works. So I'd be inclined to leave
your original transmission alone unless it is already knackered or =
unless
you are planning on driving at max torque and/or power a lot. After all =
LR
didnt make any major changes when they put in the terrifyingly powerful
(71bhp) 2.25L petrol.
And speaking of suffering, when you change the engine you will certainly
notice the increase in engine noise, especially at below "cruising =
speed"
- I remember that the 2l petrol in mine was very quiet at low speeds =
once
I'd got it sorted.

Good luck, and I bet you never want to go back to petrol once you've =
made
the change to a proper engine - I wouldn't, no matter how quiet the
tickover is  :-)

Peter
86" 1955 S1 with Perkins 4.182

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 00:43:11 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel-line and Zenith carb

In a message dated 99-01-25 09:38:22 EST, you write:

<< Naturally, I had removed my entire assortment of tools to make room in the
 si> back for human and animals.  I had a swiss army knife and the lug-nut
 si> wrench.  Fortunately, I was able to tap the "little metal pipe" back into
 si> the carb, re-attach the fuel line, and nurse it home, to the amazement
and
 si> humor of my riders.
 >>
I've noticed that I have always had less trouble with my Rovers when I have my
tools with me. A bit of  Murphy's law in effect here?

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: WORKMEISTR@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 00:54:50 EST
Subject: Sighting

Hey, Winn,
  There are quite a few Rovers in the Columbus, GA area.  Have your drivers
stay on the lookout for a couple (well, actually one, now) Series' with
Alaskan plates.  If he sees a Westminster Grey Rangie with a GB grill badge,
tell them to wave, that would be my significant other.  I did see your son a
few months back, Bill, when I was coming in from a SoLaRos trip.  I just had
enough time to say "hi", though
  Hi to all, it's been awhile.
  Presently doin' time at Leavenworth, Bren.

Bren Workman
109 Dublinsky St
Ft Benning, GA  31905
(706) 689-2934
'72 88"  "Tilly"  (still holding in there...)
'65 109" SW  "Baldwin"
'90 RR

In a message dated 99-01-21 22:12:14 EST, you write:

 One of my drivers saw a SWB in Columbus, GA with New Mexico plates. (I
 guess its an 88", he said that it was a little shorter than mine!) Isn't
 this a son of someone on the list?
 
 --
 Winn Bearden
 P.O. Box 464     >>

Yes, that's my #4 son Jason. He's a good kid but a little ignorant of
mechanical matters (only temporarily if he keeps the Rover) so if you see him
broken down somewhere please have mercy. Later

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 00:57:39 EST
Subject: Re: New stuff

In a message dated 99-01-25 11:01:47 EST, you write:

<< Just the other day, I replaced the dryer vent tube at the house.  Bought
 some all-aluminium tubing at the hardware store for about $3.  An 18"
 length accordians out to 4' or more.  Better yet, once you bend it into
 position, is stays there instead of flopping around like the
 wire-reinforced fabric. Pro'lly just the ticket for the "forced air heater
 induction" system.  I'll use the same stuff on the boat to repalce the
 bilge/blower vent tube....
 
 >>
Might stand up to battery acid a little better than the fabric but I don't
know how much better.

Bill Lawrence

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 01:41:54 EST
Subject: Re: so, I'm an idiot

In a message dated 99-01-25 16:44:43 EST, you write:

<< Suppose one did something really stupid, like say, forgeting to tighten
 one's lugnuts, after doing some brake work.  Suppose then, because of
 this, they fell off, and lacking its usual retainers, the wheel left the
 hub at highway speed.  Hypothetically,  then, what sort of damage would
 one look for?  
 >>

No, no, no...the correct way to do lose a wheel on a Land Rover (in
California, anyway), is to steal the truck, let the cops chase you all the way
from Simi Valley to Banning - where they lay down the "spikes", run over said
spikes, then continue on to Chiraco Summit, where the wheels finally burn down
to the brake rotors!

I once had a wheel come off of my first MGB-GT: the splines on the hub were
worn out, and the knockoff just wouldn't hold it anymore. A very embarrassing
event even if it wasn't your fault! Same thing happened to a friend in his
Healey 100-6, though he admitted to have forgotten to tighten everything. In
my case, I was on a street doing 30mph, but my friend was on the freeway doing
70!

Charles
(I once spun my -BGT in a tunnel - did a complete 360, and didn't hit anything
- but that's another story...)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 02:06:03 EST
Subject: Re: Sighting

In a message dated 99-01-26 00:56:36 EST, you write:

<<  Presently doin' time at Leavenworth, Bren >>
Yeah, if you see a broken 88 with New Mexico plates around Benning that's him.
With time off for good behavior you will probably get to leave there early.

Later.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 07:50:18 +0200
Subject: Re:Rooftop tents

> When in South Africa we met lots of people who had a make of rooftop
> tent which they sang the praises of. It was also a bit cheaper than the
> Brownchurch, but I can't remember the name of it.

It was probably Eazi-Awn, Christie Sports or similar...  Paul do you 
know which are the better brands?

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 08:43:43 +0200
Subject: Re: Roof top tents

> Or just pitch the tent direct on teh roof and lash the peg holes 
> (gentlyish) to teh 'load hooks' at teh bottom of teh hardtop 
> sidepanels (been there, done that with a 2 man Ultimate Peapod - 
> worked fine)

Andy I'd second this solution...  very practical, and if you need to 
you can pitch the tent elsewhere (like on the deck of the ship 
whilst your car's in transit).

All the best,

Andy

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 08:48:37 +0200
Subject: Re: Ambulance owners

> ambulances currently in North America and maybe around the 
world.  I know 

Have seen quite a few in South Africa.  Don't know whether they 
came from the Defence Force or the UK.  109 Forward Controls are 
also common, and some were probably used for ambulance duty. 
With the 2.286 petrol fitted, the casualties probably died of old age 
as the journey to hospital took so long.

All the best,

Andy

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 08:16:37 +0200
Subject: Re: so, I'm an idiot

> There are a number of LR safety-reminder sounds. Leaving the socket wrench
> on the crankshaft pulley after adjusting the tappets, and then starting up,

<snip and wry smile>

Hmmm...  then there's leaving the wheel spanner on a wheel nut 
and driving off.  Not that I'd know, but if the spanner is smaller than 
the wheel diameter it ends up making a big dent in the inner wing 
and if it is larger than the wheel diameter the car lifts up that corner 
in the most surprising fashion.

All the best,

Andy

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 09:36:22 +0200
Subject: Re: Rooftop tents

Ian Mitchell wrote:
> When in South Africa we met lots of people who had a make of rooftop
> tent which they sang the praises of. It was also a bit cheaper than the
> Brownchurch, but I can't remember the name of it.

Echo, Easi-Awn (my choice), they're really excellent, heavy duty D250
polydamide, built in insect netting and matresses. They don't leak at
all, and are able to withstand almost hurricane force gales. They cost
about US$550. P&P could cost you an arm and a leg though.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 09:40:15 +0200
Subject: Re: so, I'm an idiot

David Scheidt wrote:
> It was the left front that came off, which at least keeps the diff out of
> the way.  The two things I noticed while driving the short distance with
> three wheels were that the braking was much improved, and the steering
> didn't change much.  I was on the bit of highway leading from the Holland

I thought this was all hypothetical...

Mind you the the braking was improved and the steering unaltered should
probably be deeply troubling.

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Slade@DreamLab.cc (Michael Slade)
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 23:53:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Camel Trophy Freelander

Hi All,

Well, it's up.

Pictures & text.

www.DreamLab.cc/freelander.html

Hope everyone enjoys it!

Later,

Michael Slade
Portland, Oregon
www.DreamLab.cc

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 10:25:10 +0200
Subject: Re: Camel Trophy Freelander

Michael Slade wrote:
> Hope everyone enjoys it!

Yeah, very much, thanks Michael!
Nice article.

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 10:46:38 +0200
Subject: Re: Rooftop tents

Raul wrote re: Easi-Awn

> about US$550. P&P could cost you an arm and a leg though.

Hmmm... Another reason for starting trans-africa trips from this 
end?

All the best,
^O
Andy

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  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
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