The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: alice@atd.crane.navy.mil
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 07:53:00 +0000
Subject: Re: WhereHave AllTheOverdrivesGone...

Bill,
Thanks for your OD suggestion.  I have just attached a rode to the 
whole mess of them ...ready to be cast in the bay for my seasonal 
mooring.  Cheaper than a granite slab with staple.  Mark

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From: Markus Korth <mkorth@systline.de>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 14:13:36 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Bad Drivers

d.h.lowe writes:
 > 
 > Just a few miles east of me there is the Oshawa Military Club where they have
 > the Canadian Ferret club.They have about ten of them. I WANT one.

A friend owns one of this beasts. It runs around 62 Mph, makes noise
like in hell (even when idle - you don't understand a word when
sitting in this vehicle) and uses gas like a water mill uses water,
but it's a fun to drive it. The most interesting detail however is the 
steering wheel (difficult to explain): The steering wheel of a
"normal" car has a tilt angle so that the lower side of the steering
wheel points to the driver; in a Ferret, the lower side of the
steering points away from the driver - you drive it like a
ship. Grahpcial explained, when viewed from the side: 
"\" - steering wheel in a car
"/" - steering wheel in a Ferret.

The bad thing is that you have to do some modifcations for driving in
Germany: The law enforces you to remove the thick steel plates in
front of the driver; you aren't allowed to drive with the bullet
proofed mirror set; the (smoke) grenade launchers have to be removed
or filled up with concrete and so on...

By the way (LR content !!!): Some parts in this scout car are the same
as in my 24V Lightweight: The lamps with the glass lenses, the
generator...

Ciao
 Markus

-- 
Markus Korth              |      SYSTline 
mkorth@systline.de        |      Heiden Lemmermann 
Essen/Germany             |      Systemhaus GmbH
Key fingerprint = FA 10 36 1E A1 F7 F3 02  0D A9 14 60 A8 51 E4 D3

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 08:32:14 EST
Subject: Re: Sliding on mud help ?(cross posted)

If your two options are death or reverse, choose reverse.  It's tough to
imagine a sideways slide that couldn't be slowed or even stopped by giving up
on getting up, engaging reverse and giving it enough gas to get you directed
down the hill.

Bill Rice
SIIA109SW

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From: "D.Kenner" <af014@issc.debbs.ndhq.dnd.ca>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 09:09:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Driving skills...

> d.h."Gasket Under Glass '98"lowe writes -

> Liar, liar pants on fire. DIXON where are you .You know the truth, tell
> them ,tell them. 

Well, it is a rather interesting interpretation of the events as I first heard 
you admit to this ignomious escapade.  Yopu do have one thing that weighs 
heavily in favour.  Brett wrote -

"I got stuck in some deep stuff at the top of the driveway when he comes
screaming along at full speed, in reverse, and smashes right into the
back of my 88."

When I read this, what comes to my mind?  You had a vehicle that actually 
functioned.  (IE it could move under its own power...)  Now, we all know the 
only thing in your yard that moves on its own is the SD1, and I doubt that you 
rearended Brett with that.  But...  Did you leave well enough alone?  No...  
You had to go and write - 

"after I had been so kind  as to drag his sorry arse out of the deep snow he 
was stuck in"

Draged him out with what?  You harnessing up Caesar[1] and using him to pull 
vehicles around now?  I'm going to have to call the SPCA...

> The ignomy of it all. 

Your sorry ass is only saved here because we all know that you don't have a 
vehicle that runs!  Think of it.  The Big Green Beastie runs better than 
*anything* in your fleet! (Ouch, low blow!)

1. Caesar is a huge, fluffy white (it has rubbed all the oil off the underside 
of its' sleeping spots, namely a 101, a RR, a lightweight...) puppy dog that 
has a masocistic bent by always wanting to ride in Dave's vehicles (when they 
function)

Dixon Kenner
LSIS/IT Manager, Land Staff, Department of National Defence
(613) 945-0370, Fax (613) 945-0482

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From: "Alain-Jean PARES" <ajp@InfoDyne.fr>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:19:25 +0100
Subject: Re: I bought it...

>>It's a large squarish unit in the passenger footwell.
>>>If the heater fan blows but it's got no heat, make sure the spigot
(or
>>>the cable controlled valve if it's got one) under the hood is opened
up
>>>(that controls water flow to the heater core).
>Doesnt sound like the original heater for a 69 RHD vehicle.It should
>be a flat black box under the instrument panel,in the centre,attached
>to the bulkhead.The motor sticks out in the middle,and there are
>flaps at either end to open to let the air out round your feet.Known
>as the "flat Smith's heater".
>The water tap for the heater should be at the rear of the cyl head,
>on the LHS.Its a little wheel valve.I take it your water temp gauge
>reads about normal?

Thanks for all, mine is a box in the passenger footwell, and not flat, I
turned up the spigot, and now there is heat, the only things missings
are hoses between the heater and the windscreen.
It seems to have an output from the heater and then two inputs in each
side of the windscreen, is that correct, and is it a hose with twin
outputs or something different ?

Thanks again.
Alain.

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 09:59:00 EST
Subject: Re: Sliding on mud help ?(cross posted)

In a message dated 2/16/99 8:35:31 AM Eastern Standard Time, Jarvis64@aol.com
writes:

> If your two options are death or reverse, choose reverse.  It's tough to
>  imagine a sideways slide that couldn't be slowed or even stopped by giving 
> up
>  on getting up, engaging reverse and giving it enough gas to get you
directed
>  down the hill.

Been there.  Not fun.  
It depends on how fast you're going and whether or not the vehicle is spinning
around as well as sliding.  If it is spinning and sliding, you have almost no
chance of controlling the descent; same goes for sliding at a rapid speed.
Otherwise, Bill is right, you want the wheels moving the vehicle in the
direction of travel.  Without that, you really can't steer the vehicle.

Nate

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From: fln@dds.nl
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:59:41 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Subscription to the list

Can you please put me on the Land Rover list as I am 
restoring a Series IIa 88"and I am looking for tips and 
maybe I can help people..

Floris van Enter

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 11:22:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Exhaust discharge side

The Becketts wrote:

> William Leacock wrote:
> >In the UK it is illegal to discharge the exhaust on the
> >kerb side of the vehicle, the offside or rear is acceptable
> Why is it then that every Rangie (including both Rangies I owned) I've seen
> discharges the exhaust onto the left hadnd side.  In Australia, this
> certainly puts the exhaust onto the kerbside.
> Ron
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> Ron

It is to punish those green, republican, fun-hating pedestrians but they
invented the tofu facemask.
John and Muddy

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 16:27:18 +0100
Subject: Pulling the engine and gearbox

I hope to pull my engine and gearbox in one piece out of my 109" chassis
this coming weekend. I klnow that the crane can handle it, but I am
wondering about the recommended lifting point relative to the COG of the
assembly. Has anyone tried this with a stock 2.25 and gearbox - where is
the best place to hook on to centre the lift?

Also - does one remove the enginegearbox from the mounts or the mounts
(with the engine and gearbox) from the chassis - which gives the
best/easiest lift - and what about refitting?

Then I will stip the rest of the chassis and sandblast it - lap a "few
holes" and paint - usual recipe, several coats of red rust primer,
followed by several coats of marine grade machine black enamel lacquer.

Then its the "fun bit". Pulling it all back together. I decided to
replace the firewall to save fuddling with he rusty doorposts and
footwells - the new firewall, together with the radiator console,
firewall mounts, battery tray/filter tray, and new rear cross member
will be metallised with zinc before painting and fitting. I may even
metalise the outside of the new fuel tank - it wont prevent rusting from
the inside out, but it will prevent rust and crud corrosion from the
outside in.

Oh well - here we go again...

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
      Visit the "Native Experience" website at 
          http://www.channel6.dk/native
Contact the "Native Experience" film unit in Alaska
          telephone   +1 (907) 230 0359
          e-mail      channel6@alaska.net
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 10:39:56 EST
Subject: Re: Pulling the engine and gearbox

In a message dated 2/16/99 10:28:46 AM Eastern Standard Time,
channel6@post2.tele.dk writes:

> Has anyone tried this with a stock 2.25 and gearbox - where is
>  the best place to hook on to centre the lift?
>  Also - does one remove the enginegearbox from the mounts or the mounts
>  (with the engine and gearbox) from the chassis - which gives the
>  best/easiest lift - and what about refitting?

Hi Adrian,

I've done this several times.  Points to consider:

1.  It is much easier (ie it can be quite the swine) with the bulkhead off.
Left in place, you will run into space issues unless the trasmission
crossmember can be removed.   A knowledgable and strong helper is useful here.

2.  Due to the Al nature of the bellhousing and gear box casings, I lift it at
the 2 engine lift plates plus I run a strap from the back of the gearbox to
the lifting harness.  It will still tend to tip gearbox down, but you'll want
that as you pull it out.

3.  If you have LHD, you may have to remove the E-brake cross shaft.  I did.

When you start, lift the weight off the mounts, then free them individually
before you try to lift it.  In my case, it helped to set the transmission
mounts askew before I started to lift it out (Afterall, the tranny will try to
tip down and jam against its mounts when you start lifting).

Good luck!

Nate

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From: "Riaan Botes" <riaanb@iafrica.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 17:46:25 +0200
Subject: RE: Sliding on mud help ?(cross posted)

|If your two options are death or reverse, choose reverse.
|It's tough to
|imagine a sideways slide that couldn't be slowed or even
|stopped by giving up
|on getting up, engaging reverse and giving it enough gas to
|get you directed
|down the hill.

Tried that. I was to far over on the camber already - this was a one way
trip

Riaan Botes
'96 Tdi 110 PU
'76 SIII 109 , 2.25l Petrol PU
'52 S1 80" LHD

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 09:15:27 -0700
Subject: RE: Sliding on mud help ?

<<Tried that. I was to far over on the camber already - this was a one way
trip>>

What about chains? I've only ever used them on snow and ice, but it seems
like they might give a little bite.

-joseph

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 11:42:45 -0500
Subject: Slipping away...

Thing about mud is that you never know that you are in trouble until it's 
way too late. Scouting the terrain first is the best way to prevent 
unwanted gravity/traction issues. Super Swamper or farm implement tires 
are helpful. And use the terrain to your advantage. If sliding into the 
ditch is a posssibility, perhaps using the ditch as your ascent route 
would keep you from sliding any way but backward.
 
Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator...Softimage/Hal
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 08:51:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Central Diff lock on 110 (cross posted)

From: "Riaan Botes" <riaanb@iafrica.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 13:05:41 +0200
Subject: Central Diff lock on 110 (cross posted)

>Recently someone explained why central diff lock does not prevent wheels
from spinning. Could that plse be reposted or mailed to me privately

All the central differential lock does is lock the central differential.  In 
other words,
it simply ensure that equal power will go to the front and rear driveshafts.  
Wheelspin 
is related only to traction.  If there's no traction, a wheel will slip 
regardless of what 
kind of drivetrain you have in the vehicle.

The reason you can have one wheel on an axle spinning and the other wheel
 doing nothing is because of the open axle differentials.  The design of
open differentials is such that all the power will go to the wheel with the 
least 
resistance.  So if a wheel on an axle looses traction and begins to slip, all 
the power
going to that axle will be sent to that wheel.  So it will spin while the other 
wheel 
just sits there.  There is no cure for wheelspin other  than traction.  The 
only 
contribution the vehicle can make is to keep power 
going to the non-slipping wheel.  The only way this can be done is through the 
use of limited slip differentials, or even better, locking axle differentials.  
Stock 
Land Rovers have neither, but there are locking axle differentials that can be 
installed 
on a Land Rover.

The center differential is there because the current Land Rover vehicles are 
full-time 
four wheel drive.  This means that both axles are being driven all the time.  
However 
when you go around a corner in 4wd, the rear axle will turn at a different 
speed as the 
front axle.  If this difference in speed is not compensated for, the gears in 
the transfer 
case and transmission will begin to bind up.  If nothing is done to relieve 
this pressure, 
something will eventually break.  This is why you should never drive a 
part-time 4wd 
vehicle in 4wd on smooth roads.  On rough roads, the wheels can slip a bit to 
compensate 
for the different axle rotation rates during turns.  So on a full-time 4wd, 
they insert another 
differential in the center of the driveline at the transfer case to compensate 
for the different 
front and rear axle rotation rates.  It works exactly like the differentials on 
the axles.  Unfortunately, 
if a wheel looses traction, not only will all the power going to that axle go 
to the spinning wheel, 
but the power from the engine will all be sent to that axle through the open 
center differential.  
So virtually all the power the vehicle is developing will go to the one wheel 
with no traction, even 
though the vehicle is "full time 4wd."  The solution is to provide a lock on 
the center differential, 
so that half the power from engine will still go to the axle without a spinning 
wheel.  (Another 
solution is to install a viscous coupler at the transfer case instead of a 
center differential.  The 
viscous coupler compensates for the different axle rotation speeds while 
automatically 
preventing all the power from going to an axle with a slipping wheel.  The 
Range Rover 
started using this type of device in 1990 or 1991.)

Remember that a full-time 4wd vehicle with the center differential locked is no 
different than a 
part time 4wd vehicle in 4wd: the transmission wind-up and binding I mentioned 
earlier will occur 
if either vehicle is driven any distance on a smooth road.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: "Bill Fishel" <bfishel@cisnet.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Feb 1995 20:44:07 -0500
Subject: aeroparts winch manual

Picked up an aeroparts winch this weekend.
This was made for the series LR. Most of it 
was easy to figure out. Hydraulic pump is
mounted to a pto and bolts in (eliminates the 
possibility of an OD) perfectly. Control valve
mounts on the heel board and needs some cutting
to mount.

Can't figure out the proper way of mounting the
hydraulic reservoir. The parts book I have shows
it in the leftside rear wheel well. The tank I have is
different and I was told it goes under the left seat
in place of the storage box.

Robert Davis is sending the installation papers when
he gets a chance but if someone can tell me how to
bolt up the hyd. tank I could get the rest of it from the
manual I have.

Anybody have an aeroparts winch or know where I can 
get a manual?

Bill Fishel
88 SERIII

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 13:48:54 -0400
Subject: Re:Was World worst drivers Now The Lowe down on driving

"d.h.lowe" wrote:

> Liar, liar pants on fire. DIXON where are you .You know the truth, tell them 
,tell
> them. BEN save me,save me from this scurrilous attack. Omitted from that tale 
was
> the fact there was a recovery rope fastened to my  rear Nato hook and to MR.
> Storeys rear nato as well and that MR. Storey hijacked me (after I had been 
so kind
> as to drag his sorry arse out of the deep snow he was stuck in), dragging me 
at
> horrendous speed  backwards up my driveway .Almost at the house he stops dead 
and
> I, with the choice of running over Tom on one side or Paul ,or the dog, or 
going
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> > was just a friendly tap and the only damage was a crack reflector.
> > Needless to say, I'm scared to drive around with Dave anymore ;-

OK I believe it happened but just which version is correct I'm not sure . Is it 
a
coincidence that Bretts last name is Storey. Hmmm
John and Muddy

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 14:54:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Sliding on mud help ?(cross posted)

Riaan Botes wrote:

> In all the years of working in 4X4's the most frightening senario for me is
> a uncontrolled slide resulting in the vehicle ending up at the bottom of a
> hill.
> This nearly happened to me two days ago. Briefly - the road I was on was
> water logged as it had been raining a soft drizzle for 2 days. I had been
> driving around all day on similar roads without any problems.
> My problem occurred on a section of road that was on an uphill. At this
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 29 lines)]
> '76 SIII 109 , 2.25l Petrol PU
> '52 S1 80" LHD

In very slippery conditions like you describe it is helpful to get into as high
a gear as possible and keep the engine speed as low as possible.  However in
that situation it is unlikely that any thing would help.
John and Muddy

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:27:53 -0400
Subject: Maine Winter Romp

I have just returned from Winter Romp 4.and have to complement and thank

Bruce Fowler who as usual did a fine job organising a weekends fun for
others.
With little snow this year Bruce found us some very challenging ice
covered hills and dales. You haven't lived until you do a 360 degree
spin in a 109 on a sunken road as wide as an 88 is long. Marty A from
Long Island managed to spin around 3 times while sliding backwards at
about 25MPH with out putting a scratch on his Disco on the same hill. If
you didn't fall flat on your rearend you weren't there!.
Sunday we all attempted the scale Mount Fry with very mixed degrees of
success.
Ed Bear put the gnarliest set of tire chains anyone ever saw on a Rover
on his hybrid
Lightweight and ever so slowly strolled to the top. Zippy Zipkin
accompanied by his toothsome companion Anne had chains on the front of
his Stage 1 109 and made the top with some difficulty. Alas those
without a locker or chains were doomed to failure as Johanna Bull found
in spite of studded tires.
Winter Romp is never the same from year to year which brings
participants back every time. If you weren't there you missed a great
event so make plans for next year.
John and Muddy

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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@offroading.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 19:39:28 -0000
Subject: Weber carb

As a complete novice when it comes to engine maintenance, I am quite hapy
with the fact that I changed my Zenith for a Weber and it STILL WORKS!!!
Only had a few problems, first up, the choke cable was too short, how do I
attach a longer one?

Also, the thin metal pipe (is this the advance/retard pipe) that goes around
the back of the 4 cyl engine to the distributor was on the other side of the
Zenith, so I had to reroute it OVER the head...any problems lurking here...I
did clamp it down on the carb side.

Apart from that, she is a different vehicle! She actually ACCELERATED up a
hill in 4th!!!! Shocking it was!

Oh yes, does anyone have a clue what to ask for to replace the small rubber
seal on the metal pipe I moved? Mine is split...I suspect this doesn't help
the timing?

Neil

Series III 109" 1978

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:33:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Weber carb

Only problem with routing the vacuum advance pipe over the rocker cover 
is that in order to do a valve tappet adjustment, you must undo said 
fitting. PITA. You can safely get yourself a length of rubber vacuum hose 
from the auto parts store and snip-snip the metal hose at each 
end...leaving enough bitter end on each to slip the new rubber vacuum 
hose over. Try not to crush the pipe if you do this, and use 2 wee hose 
clamps for extra security.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator...Softimage/Hal
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: MGORGUS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 16:24:43 EST
Subject: greased Diesel caused by low temperatures

About two weeks ago I bought a SIII build 1976 Diesel 2.25l. I drove the car
once and it drove perfectly. Two days ago I started the engine, drove 1/2 a
kilometre and the engine stopped. it started again after several tries and
stopped again. It seemed as if there was no diesel coming into the engine.
The reason seems to me that the dieprevious owner, who did not drive the Landy
put the last diesel into the tamk during the summer, so the diesel did not
have a winter additive to keep it fluid. For whatever reason did tzhe engine
run for the short distance until it stopped.
The temperatures have been below minus 15 degrees C and currently it does not
get wormer than +4°C maximum over the day, so my hope that the Parrafine
cristals will melt is close to zero.
Did this happen to anybody on the list anbd does anybody can help with advice
what to do, except waiting for wormer weather .

Manfred Gorgus
Riedstr. 69B
82327 Tutzing
Bavaria/Germany
e-mail: mgorgus@AOL.com

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 16:37:26 -0500
Subject: Re: greased Diesel caused by low temperatures

Add 10-20 liters of kerosene to the tank. Try to get the fuel lines warm 
somehow and restart the engine. If still no run, maybe dirt in the line 
somewhere.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator...Softimage/Hal
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: Jstsmokeit@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 16:52:57 EST
Subject: Follow-up for "383" stroker is a series land rover

OK...more information.
thanks Bill ( Jarvis64@aol.com) for the info.  To all who suggested it, I do
not want a chevy blazer.  If I wanted performance without any trouble than I
could buy a common SUV that is on the market (well I do have one), but the
point is that no SUV is like a series Land Rover.  77hp from a 2.25liter four-
cylinder is not exactly what I am looking for either, so I will have to do
some work.  I have heard of people who beef-up the four-cylinder and can
output about 120 hp, and that isn't all that bad, but w/ 33 or 34" mudders on,
I am sure that the more power, the better.  I chose the 383 "stroker" because
of the torque to hp ratio and plenty of both.  Yes, I could go with a cheeper
350 or other engine, but as long as I am going to have to go through much of
the trouble anyway, I figured that I should do it correctly.  This is going to
be my summer project.  I don't want to deal with buying a shoddy engine or one
that has simply been mistreated so I bank on spending 2500 for the engine, it
can be seen at http://www.allchevyengines.com/383-350.htm .  Yes, 2500 is a
lot for just an engine, but as far as I am concerned, the engine is the heart
of the vehicle so I thought that having it be a quarter or fifth the cost of
the final product was not so unreasonable.  With 350hp and 420 torque,
Salisbury or Dana axles must be fitted (Can somebody give me info on the price
of these...new/used...anybody got an extra set for sale?), and brakes and a
new suspension.  Also connected to the engine will be a chevy
transmission/transfer case.  on the interior I was planning on simple
speedometer/fuel gauge/rpm meter/oil temperature gauges.  Two seat is all that
is necessary.  Also the 12gallon gas-tank does not seem too appealing so I was
going to fit an auxiliary one (anybody have sources for them?). Next was the
roll-cage and a paint job of camel yellow or black.  For the final touch I was
going to add some 33-36 inch tires/wheels (what size is the max that I can fit
onto a series I 80/86/88"?) Maybe an extra light or two will also be added and
a front and rear winch.  What about power steering?...is it difficult to
fit?/cost? And that is pretty much all.  Yes, you can say that it will be a
"hot-rod"--at least among the Land Rover community, but it will be a hell of a
good off-roader, and I will be able to spin the wheel from a stand still at
will.  Is there anywhere that I can buy a frame that is new, just the frame or
a SWB land rover?
I would love follow-ups and to know if I am dreaming.  I just want some
serious highway and off-road performance and as long as I am determined, I
thought to do it "hard-core" once and for all.
thanks,
Brent Markus
Jstsmokeit@aol.com

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 17:03:14 -0500
Subject: Sporty diesel

Adrian writes : -  My 109 really runs happily at 110kph on the motorway - it
takes a good
distance to build up this speed, but when it's there, nothing except a
long haul uphill will stop it.

 I suggest that you check the calibration of your speedo, or there are a
number of non standard items done with the engine and / or vehicle.  The
distributor pump max speed setting is 4000 rpm, which equates to 66 mph in
top gear with 7.50 x 16 tyres ( if they are not too worn ! )  Now you will
tell us that you have overdrive, which will permit the type of speed you
specify on the flat.  
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 18:47:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Follow-up for "383" stroker is a series land rover

Jstsmokeit@aol.com wrote:

> OK...more information.
> thanks Bill ( Jarvis64@aol.com) for the info.  To all who suggested it, I do
> not want a chevy blazer.  If I wanted performance without any trouble than I
> could buy a common SUV that is on the market (well I do have one), but the
> point is that no SUV is like a series Land Rover.  77hp from a 2.25liter four-
> cylinder is not exactly what I am looking for either, so I will have to do
> some work.  I have heard of people who beef-up the four-cylinder and can
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 39 lines)]
> thought to do it "hard-core" once and for all.
> thanks,

If you are going to do the big engine then you should look at a front Salisbury 
as
well as a rear one. These were fitted to the 101 and can be obtained from from a
number
of UK breakers.  The Rear from the later 110 will have disc brakes. Give some
thought to the parking brake because Land Rover use a transmission mounted one 
and
GM use rear axle brakes.
If you do not have someone who is competent to make the needed engine mount
brackets or you are able to do it your self give up on the plan as it is beyond
your abilities. You do need to do a perfect job of such a project or you will
suffer
endless breakdowns. On the trail most damage occurs to "improved" trucks.
Personally I prefer straight 6 engines for their smoothness and simplicity and
something in the 4 litre size would be my choice but if you like the chevs 
that's
up to you.
You will need to do some research in to gear ratios. The Salisburies are 
available
in 3.5:1 or 4.7:1. Since you expect to have scads of power the 3.5:1 will be
better on the road and be some what stronger and if you match it up with the 
4500
trans mission used in the Chev you will have a super low 1st, for this reason I
personally
would stay away from the auto tranny and also the fact that there is no extra
cooling
needed for the 4500. Autos are also very long to fit into an 88 and would make 
the
driveshafts unacceptably short.Think about a 109.
Cooling your 383 will take some careful planning as this area is where most 
swaps
fall down.
I saw a neat power steering set-up this weekend where a mid60s steering cylinder
from a chev had been mounted on the drag link from the steering box to the 
relay.
This one I am looking into myself.
John and Muddy

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:56:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Follow-up for "383" stroker is a series land rover

<<OK...more information.
thanks Bill ( Jarvis64@aol.com) for the info.  To all who suggested it, I do
not want a chevy blazer.>>

Sorry 'bout that Blazer bit. You'll find that sometimes we Series owners
get a little defensive. We don't mind driving around in 77hp (or less!) tin
sheds, in fact we like it, but sometimes we don't like being reminded of it
:-). Seriously, the beauty of a Series Rover is its simplicity and inherent
adaptability to its owner's needs.

<<77hp from a 2.25liter four-
cylinder is not exactly what I am looking for either, so I will have to do
some work.>>

See, there you go reminding us all again :-)

<<but w/ 33 or 34" mudders on,
I am sure that the more power, the better.>>

Mudders are great for certain situations in deep mud, but in almost every
other case, a stock Rover with skinny tires will blow right past you with
all its 77hp.

<<Salisbury or Dana axles must be fitted (Can somebody give me info on the
price
of these...new/used...anybody got an extra set for sale?), and brakes and a
new suspension.>>

As I think someone mentioned, Rover diffs are offset so large rocks and
such can pass under the opposite side. I don't think chevy x-fer cases are
designed with this in mind, so I guess Dana it will be. Again, you're
losing another nice touch of Solihull engineering, and those little things
add up in Off-Road ability. You might check out ECR at
http://www.eastcoastrover[dot]com. They offer a coil spring chassis with
goodies like anti-lock brakes. I think they may have done some conversions
similar to yours in the past. Probably a good starting point.

<<Also the 12gallon gas-tank does not seem too appealing so I was
going to fit an auxiliary one (anybody have sources for them?).>>

You can fit a 10? gallon tank under the LH seat with a switchover valve.
This isn't cheap, but it's a neat fit. These can be had from most of the
major parts distributors. You can also custom build a tank to fit under the
rear tub, or I think I've heard a CJ tank fits with a little finagling.

<<Next was the
roll-cage and a paint job of camel yellow or black.  For the final touch I was
going to add some 33-36 inch tires/wheels (what size is the max that I can fit
onto a series I 80/86/88"?)>>

Stock Series I's have less suspension travel than II's and III's, but then
you'll be doing suspension mods anyway. 34's were standard on SIII 109
military models with the raised suspension.

<<Yes, you can say that it will be a
"hot-rod"--at least among the Land Rover community, but it will be a hell of a
good off-roader, and I will be able to spin the wheel from a stand still at
will.  Is there anywhere that I can buy a frame that is new, just the frame or
a SWB land rover?>>

See ECR comment above. Also any of the big parts distributors sell new
frames. You might also search the wreckers for a Range Rover chassis. This
gives you a slightly longer wheelbse (100") so more room to mess with prop
shafts and such. It is fairly common to make a "hybrid" with SWB body and
RR chassis. It would be interesting to see, but be prepared for criticism
from nuts like myself :-)

 *************************************
* joseph and sidney		      *
* missoula, mt			      *
* curator of the "Series Shed"        *
* http://jbroach.interspeed.net/rover *
 *************************************

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 22:46:24 -0000
Subject: Re: British comedy (was Onslo's hat)

>>>an Irish
comedian who was missing a couple of fingers<<<

Dave Allen.... he was great, then had a drink/wife (?) problem and
disappeared for a few years. Just come back and done a new series and guess
what.....? He's crap now. Ah well.....always something to laugh at so long
as people buy the Ford Ka (do you get this weird shaped "vehicle" in the
States?
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 22:52:50 -0000
Subject: Re: World worst drivers

>>>>I would nominate Tunisia.  I<<<<

I've got a photograph taken in either Tunisia or Libya (it was one of those
trips....) when we had shoved a spring hanger up into the chassis (frame) of
the old 109. Had to stop to get it welded....
the pic shows eight (yes, eight) workers under our Landie, held up by just a
Hi-Lift, welding the chassis

BTW, when., as would be expected, they set fire to a bit of paper one guy
tried to stamp it out with his bare feet, I don't have a photo 'cos we were
laughing too much........

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 22:57:46 -0000
Subject: Re: Computer Damage (Was: X-rays and film)

>>>>>>strong magnetic fields, heat, and static electricity.  
Airport X-ray equipment produces none of those things.

Have to add water in there, somewhere....  Definite Land Rover 
content here.  Thou Shalt Not Leave Thy Laptop Under The Drip In 
The Land Rover In The Rain For 3 Hours.  BTDT.

Ditto cellphone in dashboard with front vents open when driving in 
rain.>>>>>

garn, Coffee get's my vote every time, what that CAN'T screw up...........
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+            
     I !__|  [_]|_\___   
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV 
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 23:08:48 -0000
Subject: Re: Onslo's Hat

>>>>the Stag........<<<

no, no. no. NO, don't even mention the well engineered Dolly Sprint (half a
Stag engine or not) in the same breath as that total mess they called the
Stag.
We think Land Rovers are noisy....
I owned a Stag for 13 days... 12 days too long.......

but, yes, the engine(s) were a shame, but the power-to-weight ratio of the
Dolly Sprint, and the rest of the superb engineering and (dare I say it)
design, was superb (the suspension was a dream).
 The Stag = Nada, the Dolly Sprint = a true classic vehicle. (how did we get
here fromOnslo's hat?)
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 06:39:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Follow-up for "383" stroker is a series land rover

Thank you for your support John. I will wear it always.:-)  Re. power steering 
rams.
George Munroe put one on his 88 many years ago and it was great for snow 
plowing but
nasty on the highway. Too sensitive and you ended up zig zagging down the road.

John Cranfield wrote:

> Jstsmokeit@aol.com wrote:
> > OK...more information.
> > thanks Bill ( Jarvis64@aol.com) for the info.  To all who suggested it, I do
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 39 lines)]
> > thought to do it "hard-core" once and for all.
> > thanks,
> If you are going to do the big engine then you should look at a front 
Salisbury as
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 37 lines)]
> This one I am looking into myself.
> John and Muddy

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 19:04:44 -0500
Subject: Re: greased Diesel caused by low temperatures

MGORGUS@aol.com wrote:

> Did this happen to anybody on the list anbd does anybody can help with
> advice
> what to do, except waiting for wormer weather .

The cause of the fuel starvation may be wax crystals in the fuel
clogging the strainer on the pickup in the tank. The engine ran until
the strainer clogged.

Standard expensive remedy: Have it towed to a heated garage, and leave
it inside overnight. Then thin the diesel fuel with kerosene (pariffin
in British)

Potential cheap remedy 1: Fuel system for leaks, then put a winter
capable camping stove under the tank on the ground, and use that to heat
the tank. I don't think butane stoves will work at that cold a
temperature. Once the fuel is warm, thin the fuel and start the engine.

Potential cheap remedy 2: Pull the fuel pickup from the tank. If it is
clogged with wax, take it to a warm place to melt the wax. Then thin the
fuel, etc.

Heating the engine with a gasoline stove was standard procedure for us
when winter camping in the Adirondacks with a '71 Toyota station wagon.
Once, some students from Antioch College had a Baraccuda with wide rear
tires which wouldn't crank over. So they watched us, inquired what we
were doing, and tried heating the big V8 with a couple of cans of
Sterno. Outside temp was -25F.  They also tried jump starting it on a
level, ice covered parking lot by pushing it. As soon as the driver let
the clutch out the rear wheels locked up and slid.

Regards,
David Cockey

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 23:39:35 -0000
Subject: Re: Adrians racer 109

>>>>>Or maybe I'm just lucky?<<<<<

we've had'em like this. I remember buying two 109s., barely a year apart in
age, both 2.25 petrol, loaded both up for bear more or less the same. One
was a flier, one was a plodder. Something to do with Land Rover's ofte
quoted  plus or minus an inch during manufacture ?

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 23:31:34 -0000
Subject: Re: Disco Steel wheels

I've got 235/85 General Grabber MTs on my steel Disco wheels......if this
helps
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 20:30:09 EST
Subject: '49 Series I for sale or trade

Celebrate the 50th with a ~

1949 Series I.
 80" nimble inches of over-engineered tractor power!
Manufactured in first year of production. Runs well, might need a little
tweaking, but I drive it weekly with no problem. Repainted (well) in NATO
blue. Paint is in great shape for an LR - only two blemishes to speak of. 
Has soft pick-up top. RHD. Engine is in great shape, doesn't burn much oil at
all for a SI and tears up the road at a screaming 48mph!
And what torque...
Hood mounted spare, 16" rims, no serious rust.
A damn fine truck....

I'll take a serious offer to purchase, but what I really want is a IIa in good
shape. Cosmetics are not as important as frame, engine, you know the deal if
you're reading this list. I'm pretty flexible and might consider a SIII as
well.

PLEASE CONTACT ME DIRECTLY, NOT AT THIS LIST.
I can't seem to get the LRO reliably these days, so email me at:
Rovernut@AOL.com

Thanks for your interest,
Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 08:56:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Driving skills...

Oh, Oh, Oh, Oh, How could you ! How could you compare anything in Happy Acres to
the Big Green Beastie. Even the stuff hiding out in the tall grass storage
department is in better nick than that poor long suffering 109. And just a 
cotton
picking minute.............lets see........Murphy 88 running fine, daily driver 
of
no. 4 son  :-)
             Lightweight running fine, daily driver of no. 2 son  :-)
             SDI running fine daily driver of yours truly. :-)
             SDI  no.2 almost finished.well almost.  :-(
             109 running fine (rebuilt 5 brg.) used for abusing Brett.(twice) 
:-)
             101 resting . wallet in intensive care. :-(
             R.R. resting. see above. :-(
             Series I resting :-(
             109 V8 work in progress.:-(
See it aint that bad.........is it?
Btw Brett and I have agreed to a photo. session for the award picture. We thing
yew gonna like it. :-)
Cheers.......Caesar  ( my master is too embarassed to write)

D.Kenner wrote:

> > d.h."Gasket Under Glass '98"lowe writes -
> > Liar, liar pants on fire. DIXON where are you .You know the truth, tell
> > them ,tell them.
> Well, it is a rather interesting interpretation of the events as I first heard
> you admit to this ignomious escapade.  Yopu do have one thing that weighs
> heavily in favour.  Brett wrote -
> "I got stuck in some deep stuff at the top of the driveway when he comes
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 33 lines)]
> has a masocistic bent by always wanting to ride in Dave's vehicles (when they
> function)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 19:05:58 -0800
Subject: SII wiring Diagram

To all SII owners.  My SII wiring diagram is now available at 
http://home.mho.net/mstockdale/Wiring Diagram.jpg

Hope this help all the Do-It-Yourself folks

Hurricane Mitch and the Red Dinosaur

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 22:24:03 EST
Subject: Re: WhereHave AllTheOverdrivesGone...

In a message dated 99-02-16 07:54:36 EST, you write:

 Bill,
 Thanks for your OD suggestion.  I have just attached a rode to the 
 whole mess of them ...ready to be cast in the bay for my seasonal 
 mooring.  Cheaper than a granite slab with staple.  Mark
  >>
Errr! Ahhh!... Wait a minute! Maybe we should discuss the other options.

Bill Lawrence

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 22:35:18 EST
Subject: Re: Subscription to the list

In a message dated 99-02-16 10:02:09 EST, you write:

 Can you please put me on the Land Rover list as I am 
 restoring a Series IIa 88"and I am looking for tips and 
 maybe I can help people..
 
 Floris van Enter
  >>
Did you get on or do you need help?

Bill lawrence
Albq, NM

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[spamkill: @yahoo\. input: %s]	 Return-Path: <mar4ryc@yahoo.com>
[spamkill: @yahoo\. input: %s]	 From: mar4ryc@yahoo.com

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 20:35:42 -0700
Subject: Re: Follow-up for "383" stroker in a series land rover

One thing to keep in mind with the tire size is that the stock tires
are narrow. Wide, tall tires are going to limit articulation because of
rubbing on the wings and other body parts. This will also limit the
turning radius unless the wheels have a large offset or the axles are
wider than stock. I have 235-85-16's on my 88 which are about 32" tall.
I have rub marks on the tub, and during extreme articulation the sides
of the tires get somewhat close to the wheel openings in the wings and
tub. You might have to cut these openings wider and possibly lift the
vehicle to accomidate large tires. If you live where it snows, wide
tires suck in the snow, even with mud tread, so think out your choice
carefully.
	If you're spending that much money, you should probably get posi or
lockers to transfer all the power to the ground. There are situations
where having all the hp in the world won't get you up the trail 1"
farther than a stock 77hp rover, although there are other times where it
definately helps. Generally you don't want to spin your tires when going
up hills, espically muddy or snowy hills. Having that much hp, you would
want to have the throttle linkage so that it isn't extremely responsive,
so that if the trail is really rocky your foot won't be bouncing on the
pedal and launching you in a direction you don't want to go.
	Get as low a low range as possible because it is very nice to not have
to ride the brakes down really steep hills. I have a t-18 in my bronco,
if it would fit a GM tranny or if GM makes an equivalent, that would be
my choice.
	I do have a picture of a 109 truck on my web page that has a 350 and
big wide tires. I'm not sure how much you can see of what modifications
were made to it, but maybe it can help some. one picture is at the
bottom of the page at:
http://silverstone.fortunecity.com/cowley/62/steamboat2.htm  It is next
to the ambulance. Compared to the 109 mext to it, the wheel openings are
cut much higher. I'm sure I have other pictures of ti which I can send
you if you want.

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab
http://www.users.uswest.net/~jimfoo/

Jstsmokeit@aol.com wrote:
>   For the final touch I was going to add some 33-36 inch tires/wheels (what 
size is the max that I can fit
> onto a series I 80/86/88"?)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 22:42:06 EST
Subject: Re: Sliding on mud help ?

In a message dated 99-02-16 11:17:26 EST, you write:

<< What about chains? I've only ever used them on snow and ice, but it seems
 like they might give a little bite.
 
 -joseph
  >>
Kind of tough to fit when the car is moving. You've got to be real fast.

Bill Lawrence

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From: Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 22:55:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Was World worst drivers Now The Lowe down on driving

Well, I have the witnesses and a totaled Land Rover to back up my stor(e)y. 
Plus I have
tucked away in a safe place on my hard drive a little tell all email from our 
'ol pal
Dave to Dixon and Ben that I think he sent as a preemptive strike to ward off 
the
fearsome slagging he knew would be coming. Dave also took Tom, Paul (the 
witnesses) and
myself to lunch after the "mishap", as a sort of settle it out of court thing. 
Yeah,
like we can be bought off that easy.

If the truth be known, I think Dave is a little upset at missing out on the 
"Lugnut of
the Year Award" the past two years and so has gotten 1999 off to an early 
"smashing"
start. Beware!

John and Muddy wrote:
OK I believe it happened but just which version is correct I'm not sure .
Is it a coincidence that Bretts last name is Storey. Hmmm
John and Muddy

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 20:47:24 -0700
Subject: Re: aeroparts winch manual

1995? avoiding the Y2K bug by living in the past Bill? If you are going
to do that you could at least set it to the same year as your rover. I
hate it when new messages appear at the top of my list since I don't
look there.
Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab
http://www.users.uswest.net/~jimfoo/

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 21:12:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Sliding on mud help ?

<< What about chains? I've only ever used them on snow and ice, but it seems
 like they might give a little bite.
 -joseph>>

<Kind of tough to fit when the car is moving. You've got to be real fast.
Bill Lawrence>

Bill, have you not received your flyer yet? Rovers North proudly introduces
their Mansfield Automatic Tire Chains. You just throw them out the window
in the direction of the rear wheels. High powered technodoodlegagdetry(TM)
from high in the hills of Vermont causes them to neatly wrap around the
spinning tires and self-clasp. I've heard it takes a few tries to get the
toss just right, especially to the passenger side. Better hurry, bet
they're going fast at 499.95 per axle set! :-)

-joseph

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 23:17:02 EST
Subject: Re: World worst drivers

In a message dated 99-02-16 18:06:44 EST, you write:

<< the old 109. Had to stop to get it welded....
 the pic shows eight (yes, eight) workers under our Landie, held up by just a
 Hi-Lift, welding the chassis
 
 >>
They were there to cushion the Landies landing in case the Hi-lift gave out.

Bill Lawrence

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 23:13:23 EST
Subject: Re: British comedy (was Onslo's hat)

In a message dated 99-02-16 18:06:26 EST, you write:

<< always something to laugh at so long
 as people buy the Ford Ka (do you get this weird shaped "vehicle" in the
 States?
 Best Cheers
 
 Frank >>
Not to my knowledge. But then Ford could fall of the edge of the earth and I
wouldn't notice. I wouldn't be surprised if they weren't importing it under
some other name. They keep trying to reinvent the Honda Civic. 

LR content: I heard on the news the other morning that (shudder) GM is trying
to buy BMW. If that happens kiss any interesting cars goodbye. We're all going
to be driving Chevettes. While I don't care for Ford products I have to admit
they have done alright by Jaguar. Don't expect GM to be so enlightened.

Later

Bill lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 23:24:43 EST
Subject: Re: greased Diesel caused by low temperatures

In a message dated 99-02-16 19:08:52 EST, you write:

 Heating the engine with a gasoline stove was standard procedure for us
 when winter camping in the Adirondacks with a '71 Toyota station wagon.
 Once, some students from Antioch College had a Baraccuda with wide rear
 tires which wouldn't crank over. So they watched us, inquired what we
 were doing, and tried heating the big V8 with a couple of cans of
 Sterno. Outside temp was -25F.  They also tried jump starting it on a
 level, ice covered parking lot by pushing it. As soon as the driver let
 the clutch out the rear wheels locked up and slid.
 
 Regards,
 David Cockey
  >>
My experience of two years (three winters) in Duluth, Minnesota was that to
assure starting on cold mornings (petrol engines) use a lighter engine oil and
take the battery indoors at night. Once I started doing that I never had a
problem starting the car.

Bill Lawrence

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 23:35:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Sliding on mud help ?

On Tue, 16 Feb 1999, Joseph Broach wrote:

:<Kind of tough to fit when the car is moving. You've got to be real fast.
:Bill Lawrence>
:
:Bill, have you not received your flyer yet? Rovers North proudly introduces
:their Mansfield Automatic Tire Chains. You just throw them out the window

Hate to break it you, joesph, but automatic chains do exist.  I saw a bit
on a teevee news program about whatever city the hotel I was in having
just bought a bunch of new snowplows.  One of the advanced features they
had were automatic chains.  It appeared to be a set of chains that spun
around a pivot inside the rear wheels, and thus under them.  No further
details available, sorry.

David/mr sinclair

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 23:44:23 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: greased Diesel caused by low temperatures

On Tue, 16 Feb 1999 DNDANGER@aol.com wrote:

:My experience of two years (three winters) in Duluth, Minnesota was that to
:assure starting on cold mornings (petrol engines) use a lighter engine oil and
:take the battery indoors at night. Once I started doing that I never had a
:problem starting the car.

Ah, but diesel does nasty stuff when it gets cold.  It has waxes in it
that seperate out, and clog filters and fuel lines and injection pumps,
and generally make life miserable.  My advice to the person with the
problem is to get the Land-Rover into a heated garage.  Since I am sure
that is not an option, add as much winterized diesel as possible to the
tank.  If possible, use warm fuel.  Room temperature is quite enough to
make a difference.  If suitable winterized No. 2 diesel is not available,
use No. 1 diesel, if you can get it.  If you cannot, it is acceptable to
use up to about 20% kerosene (parrifin oil in some parts of the world).
In a Land-Rover, that would be about 10 or 15 liters to a full tank.  I
would not do this on a regular basis, as your injection pump won't like
it, but it will get you home.  There are also various anti-wax treatments
available,  I don't if you can get them in your part of the world.  

David

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 23:43:38 EST
Subject: Re: Sliding on mud help ?

In a message dated 99-02-16 23:13:22 EST, you write:

<< Bill, have you not received your flyer yet? Rovers North proudly introduces
 their Mansfield Automatic Tire Chains. You just throw them out the window
 in the direction of the rear wheels. High powered technodoodlegagdetry(TM)
 from high in the hills of Vermont causes them to neatly wrap around the
 spinning tires and self-clasp. I've heard it takes a few tries to get the
 toss just right, especially to the passenger side. Better hurry, bet
 they're going fast at 499.95 per axle set! :-)
  >>
With my luck (skills) I'd miss and get them wrapped around the axles neatly
taking out my brake lines.  Way to high tech for me.

Bill Lawrence

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From: WORKMEISTR@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 23:45:37 EST
Subject: Going To Colorado Springs

Hi folks,
  I'll be continuing my American Trek, Thursday, proceeding on to Colorado
Springs to look for a house to buy.  To date in the last 5 weeks, 2200 miles
on my '72 88".  Only 2300 miles to go!  Keep me in your prayers.  I would be
interested in meeting up for a pint or such with any Colorado Springs
Roverites this weekend, preferably Sunday.  I won't have use of my computer,
but anyone interested in meeting can call the Ft Carson Billeting, The
Colorado Inn, at (719) 526-4832, ask for Captain Workman's room and leave a
message.  I'm looking forward to seeing some Rovers, so don't let me down!
Take care, and keep the 90 weight flowing, Bren.

Bren Workman
109 Dublinsky St.
Ft. Benning, GA  31905
h (706) 689-2934
w (913) 651-9522  ext. 1127
'72 88"  "Tilly"
'65 109" SW  "Baldwin"
'90 RR

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From: "Bill Fishel" <bfishel@cisnet.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 1995 23:49:29 -0500
Subject: living in the past Bill

From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 20:47:24 -0700
Subject: Re: aeroparts winch manual

1995? avoiding the Y2K bug by living in the past Bill? If you are going
to do that you could at least set it to the same year as your rover. I
hate it when new messages appear at the top of my list since I don't
look there.
Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

Jim
I'm not living in the past, I'm just not paying attention to my settings.
Funny things happen when you're not the only user on a pc at home.
Does explain why some people miss my posts . Then again they show
 up on mine in the order they were posted regardless of time/date.

So, ya got a winch manual or advice on where the hyd. tank mounts
or not?

Bill "What d'ya mean it ain't 1995 anymore?" Fishel

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 23:52:46 EST
Subject: Re: living in the past Bill

In a message dated 99-02-16 23:47:50 EST, you write:

<< Bill "What d'ya mean it ain't 1995 anymore?" Fishel >>

Personally if I were going to live in the past I'd set the machine back a lot
further than a piddly ass four years.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 07:29:42 +0200
Subject: Re: Computer Damage (Was: X-rays and film)

Frank wrote;
 
> garn, Coffee get's my vote every time, what that CAN'T screw up...........
> Best Cheers

Now we're going in circles...
Coffee won't screw up a Land Rover!!

(roll on the stories about coffee in the distributor and/or fuel and/or 
oil?)

All the best,

Andy
With rangie victim of many spilt liquid incidents.

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From: Rovergo@aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 01:03:39 EST
Subject: Land~Rover hose job.

Hi all
If your in so.cal and want a new rover go see terry york, A friendly sales
staff , a
A Service dept. the size of a corner gas station, A parts dept. the size of a
shoe box , And extended warrentys as user friendly as a hungry badger that
even include service with used parts. thats right rover fans USED PARTS.
Broken rod at 58k and a 70k warrenty no problem mister happy defender owner we
will install this used motor with who knows how many miles out of this wreck
over here and maybe it will last until 70k. Nice job Land~Rover. Sorry for the
rant everyone but a friend is getting screwed by our favorite marque. Glad
mines a ser 11a when I buy new im afraid it will be jap crap at least they
honor their warrantys.                                         happy rovering
Pat Young .  P.S. this truck hasn't been abused and was always serviced by the
dealer thats doin the screwn.   

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 01:10:23 EST
Subject: Re: greased Diesel caused by low temperatures

In a message dated 99-02-16 23:43:47 EST, you write:

<< Ah, but diesel does nasty stuff when it gets cold.  It has waxes in it
 that seperate out, and clog filters and fuel lines and injection pumps,
 and generally make life miserable.  My advice to the person with the
 problem is to get the Land-Rover into a heated garage.  Since I am sure
 that is not an option, add as much winterized diesel as possible to the
 tank.  If possible, use warm fuel.  Room temperature is quite enough to
 make a difference.  If suitable winterized No. 2 diesel is not available,
 use No. 1 diesel, if you can get it.  If you cannot, it is acceptable to
 use up to about 20% kerosene (parrifin oil in some parts of the world).
 In a Land-Rover, that would be about 10 or 15 liters to a full tank.  I
 would not do this on a regular basis, as your injection pump won't like
 it, but it will get you home.  There are also various anti-wax treatments
 available,  I don't if you can get them in your part of the world.  
 >>

There is somebody either in the U.K. or Europe, that makes tank heaters! I
don't recall if it's Mantec, or GKN, or the like, but they are available.

Charles

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 01:18:16 EST
Subject: Re: Land~Rover hose job.

...But Pat, I thought EVERYBODY knew about "Terror-York"!

I went there when I was looking for my '89 Range Rover, and they wanted $22k
for a 1991, when anybody else was only asking $10-16k.

If I need parts now, and can't make it to BP, I go to South Bay Land Rover:
nice people, they negotiate, and they LOVE my SIIA 109 diesel! (...so they
suck up to me whenever I drive it there...)

Charles
P.S. They also want me to take it on one of their outings - to show all the
Range Rover/Disco owners a thing or two!

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 01:20:07 EST
Subject: Re: Sporty diesel

In a message dated 99-02-16 16:59:56 EST, you write:

<< I suggest that you check the calibration of your speedo, or there are a
 number of non standard items done with the engine and / or vehicle.  The
 distributor pump max speed setting is 4000 rpm, which equates to 66 mph in
 top gear with 7.50 x 16 tyres ( if they are not too worn ! )  Now you will
 tell us that you have overdrive, which will permit the type of speed you
 specify on the flat.  
 >>

Now wait a minute here...I've pegged the speedo in my 109 both with AND
without overdrive, and on flat ground!

(Without was after I discovered that my injector pump timing was off)

Charles

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 09:04:06 +0200
Subject: Re: Sporty diesel

> Now wait a minute here...I've pegged the speedo in my 109 both with AND
> without overdrive, and on flat ground!

In a diesel?

(ouch...)

Andy

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From: Rick Debold <rdebold@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 00:22:00 -0800
Subject: RHD to LHD

I've been looking at a nice 88" to buy, but its RHD and I'd need to convert to
LHD.
Anybody converted RHD to LHD? What parts can be reused and what needs to be
replaced?

Thanks,
--

Rick Debold                      |=======|C
rdebold@ix.netcom.com  _______   |__|__|__\__
'96 Discovery          |_/ \_|===!_--____--__|}
'69 MGB-GT         ______(O)_______(O)___(O)______________

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 09:41:27 +0000
Subject: Re: Sporty diesel

 Now wait a minute here...I've pegged the speedo in my 109 both with AND
 without overdrive, and on flat ground!
In a diesel?

>(ouch...)
Now,now,young Andrew....I seem to remember yours cruised at 55mph
down the motorway....*grossly* overloaded,too.Or were the claims
just a *little* bit OTT? :-)

Mike

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Wed, 17 Feb 1999 09:48:32 +0000
Subject: Re: Onslo's Hat

no, no. no. NO, don't even mention the well engineered Dolly Sprint (half a
Stag engine or not) in the same breath as that total mess they called the
Stag.
>We think Land Rovers are noisy....
>I owned a Stag for 13 days... 12 days too long.......
Calm down Frank..Have another drink:-)
Given the straight six,the Stag would have been much quieter.You have
to admit,it *was* a pretty car.
>but, yes, the engine(s) were a shame, but the power-to-weight ratio of the
>Dolly Sprint, and the rest of the superb engineering and (dare I say it)
>design, was superb (the suspension was a dream).
All the Dollies were lovely cars IMO.The problem was that the bodywork
didnt rust,it committed suicide.

 (how did we get
>here fromOnslo's hat?)
By proceeding inexorably downwards....
I recall you *were* going to ask Patricia Routledge about that hat..

Cheers
Mike

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