The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 07:50:03 EST
Subject: Re: soft top

Scott,

I've got a military top for my truck now.  Supposed to be getting a
replacement in from the UK in April.  If so, maybe we can work something out
on the old one.  Please tease me again about it, if you haven't heard anything
by the middle of April.

Thanks!

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

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From: Charles Irvin <cirvin1258@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 04:48:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Some of the most fun I've had with my clothes on:

On Wed, 10 Mar 1999 20:52:29 PST "Ray Burton" <j_r_burton@hotmail.com>
writes:
>  Watching 12 bofors 40mm firing in 
>full-automatic spitting high explosive tracers at a single target is 
>truely a sight to behold. 

Twelve?

Gee, my Spectre only had two.

The A model I rode in, was armed with two Vulcans, two Miniguns, two
Bofors, and a 105 in the rear door.

Later 'ships (and those drafted for "special occasions") had varying
armament: four Vulcans/two Bofors/one 105, six miniguns/one 105, two
Bofors/two 75mm's/two Vulcans/one 105, and a precursor to the AC-130U
(the U-boat), the 105 mounted in the SIDE! When fired, the plane yaws 30
yards!

New 'ships have the GAU-8 cannon in place of the Vulcan/minigun: while
they claim it to be a superior weapon, nothing beats a Vulcan for
shredding Jeeps in a 2-second burst!

It would be nice to move to Arizona and mount one in the back of the 109
(LR content. Hey, I know - pretty lame, but I had to come up with
something!), but at $18.00 a round, I can't afford to feed one (let alone
buy one!), but, I can still remember...(that damn tune just won't leave
my head - "G.E. - we bring good things to life.")

Charles

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 08:26:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Some of the most fun I've had with my clothes on:

>"G.E. - we bring good things to life.")
>Charles

A friend of mine who had the chagrin of working for the military-industrial
complex once owned a T shirt with an amusing cartoon on it.

It had a sketch of the onion domes of the Kremlin, and a missile warhead was
swooping down on this scene. Below that, there were two speech balloons:

"Gee......"

"No, GTE....."

OK, so you hadda be there...... -ajr

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From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 08:30:16 -0500
Subject: 2.25 oil pump?

I need a good used oil pump.  
Mine has developed a ridge on the relief sleeve and bore, causing the sleeve
to stick in the bore...causing permanent bypass after warm-up and resultant
low oil pressure.  Contributing to hot running as well.  

So I need a good used pump, or at a minimum, a good bottom half with smooth
relief bore and sleeve.

Anyone ?

PS  Anyone ever honed the bore on an oil pump ?  A new sleeve and judicious
honing of the bore just might do the trick, too.  Opinions ?

Thanks.

John Tackley
Richmond, VA

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From: "John" <john@dmt-2000.demon.nl>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 14:49:20 +0100
Subject: leakin' LT95 GB solved

Hi all,

Couple of days ago I had a problem with my LT95 badly leakin oil.
Turned out to be the GB main-shaft oil-seal + gasket. When I tried to remove
the d*mn oil-seal it came out in pieces hard as stone!
I also found out that the (S)PO used some GB oil-additif to make oil-seals
flexible agian?? Never heard of the stuff.
Anyone using this additif?

BTW
I removed the engine to do the job in spite of the fact that I do have a
detachable cross-member .The idea of removing the heavy LT95 kept me
worrying. Glad I didn't took it out.

"Things should be made as simple as possible, but not any simpler."
Einstein; I believe??

John
series III stage one (diesel)

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 06:22:24 -0800
Subject: Re: 2.25 oil pump?

John we rebuild 2 1/4 engines all the time here and have lots of used oil
pumps. If you want a good one I will have our rebuild technician go over
one to make sure it is withinn specs. Price would be US$60 shipping about
$15 Ray
----------
> From: Tackley, John <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: 2.25 oil pump?
> Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 5:30 AM
> I need a good used oil pump.  
> Mine has developed a ridge on the relief sleeve and bore, causing the

sleeve
> to stick in the bore...causing permanent bypass after warm-up and
resultant
> low oil pressure.  Contributing to hot running as well.  
> So I need a good used pump, or at a minimum, a good bottom half with
> Subject: 2.25 oil pump?
smooth
> relief bore and sleeve.
> Anyone ?
> PS  Anyone ever honed the bore on an oil pump ?  A new sleeve and
> Date: Thursday, March 11, 1999 5:30 AM
> I need a good used oil pump.  
judicious

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From: "Risely, Chris" <ChrisRisely@aec.ca>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 07:18:31 -0700
Subject: RE: free to a good home

Bill.
    Re S1 parts: there's a fellow in California who's doing a resto on a
1951 80", so the complete 1600ccc is gone. I'll have a good look at the
short block, and let you know what's left for fasteners. I think the
manifold studs are there, but the head hardware, and I think the pan
hardware went onto my running engine a few years ago, to replace stripped
parts there. The timing cover, clutch pressure plate I know I have. (did you
want a couple of clutches/plates - I think I've got 4 loose ones!) Which
rocker bracket studs (intake or exhaust)? I'll check on the flywheel dowels
- I think the short block has them, and I think I've still got a CB brake
master - that's the one with a remote master over by the fuel tank, and a
three bolt flange, right?
  FYI, the reason there are so many S1's , and S1 parts here is 1) the
British military use Canada as their cold weather training area, and 2) the
local utility companies used Rovers for many years.
   Guys have been using FedEx, or UPS to do pickups direct from my house, so
all the paperwork is in the name of the new owner. I have the forms for
doing proper carbon copy bills of sale, etc, and I've been providing
invoices of contents, and weight for shipping purposes.  I'll look tonight,
and forward you a complete list of the relevant bits, and weights tomorrow
A.M.  
Regards,
Chris Risely

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From: "Brad Harris" <brad.harris@westernsouthernlife.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 09:36:41 -0500
Subject: Thompson's Water Seal on a Top

<<BTW, speaking of soft tops I read somewhere (LROI or LRW) that people
treat
their softtops with Thompsons Water Seal to improve its water resistance.
Anyone out their done this?
Mahalo
Pete>>

I have not used this on a Rover's top (mainly because I drive a Range Rover)
but I have done this to a cloth top on another vehicle. When it rained the
water would sweat through the cloth top. The top was old but the plastic
window looked new and I didn't want to replace the top yet so I wanted to
waterproof the cloth again. I put two very heavy coats of Thompson's water
seal over the entire top making sure not to get it on the plastic window. I
coated the top while it was on the car just to make sure the top would not
shrink or anything when the Thompson's dried. I used that top for about 2
more years before it finally got replaced because it started to rip. I never
had water soak through after the treatment with Thompson's. Thompson's even
says on the can that it is made for canvas tents. The only problem I could
see is that if you have a dark colored top, it might make the cloth look a
little glossy. It didn't do that to mine because mine was a faded light gray
(used to be black).

Brad H.

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 08:20:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Starvation

Mitch,

One thing of note that has been known to occur with the Zenith and Solex; When
on a steep inclide the float bowl can become swamped. When you throw in
altitude, this problem can be even greater.

John Wood

The Stockdales wrote:

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From: "Russell G. Dushin" <rgdushin@blackcat.cat.syr.edu>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 11:02:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Thompson's Water Seal on a Top

WRT treating canvas with Thompson's or it's equivalent, two things:

1) It WILL darken the color of the top, and it will also stiffin up 
the feel of it.
2) Make sure you use the right stuff...there's at least two types and
only one can be used on canvas...read the label.

and as stated, keep it off your windows.  BTDT and living with the
smudges...

rd/nige

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From: PAUL HANSON <HANSONPA@mail.milwaukee.k12.wi.us>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 11:18:33 -0600
Subject: TOM ROWE

TOM ROW,
	Please contact Paul Hanson.  RE PTO.

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From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 11:21:18 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Thompson's Water Seal on a Top

> more years before it finally got replaced because it started to rip. I never
> had water soak through after the treatment with Thompson's. Thompson's even

i too remember seeing this, but the new cans don't mention
canvas (tents or tops)...  i went with a product from my 
paint store but i expect the thompsons formula is unchanged...

Sincerely,

Ray Harder 

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 08:18:06 -1000
Subject: Re: Thompson's Water Seal on a Top

>shrink or anything when the Thompson's dried. I used that top for about 2
>more years before it finally got replaced because it started to rip.

Is there a relation between using the Thompsons and the top tearing?
I am worried that even though it says to use it on the can that it may
deteriorate the material.
Is there a better product for water proofing canvas?  My wife has mentioned
that we should get a couple cans of scotch guard.

Pete

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 13:52:13 -0500
Subject: Ultimate expedition

John Karlsson <karlsson@edgenet.net> wrote:

>A few years ago a woman here in Rhode Island was buried in her Corvair. 
>...So I suppose a 109 might be possible.  I've always thought a burlap sack 
>would be my choice when the time comes, but maybe I should start thinking
>about my 88".  We've been together for almost 30 years now, and I can't 
>imagine that we will ever part!

I feel the same way...owned the '72 from new.  Always said that I wanted to
be burried in the 88".  However, the wife says that if that happens, it'll
be the plastic 1:24 scale model on top of the TV!  The real Rover's too
valuable to plant....

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  |                                                   |
  |   (original owner)        (pre-production)        | 
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 13:52:12 -0500
Subject: Kirk at play

Kirk Hillman <kdhillman@hotmail.com> wrote:

>I got into my snow-covered driveway but had to keep going, the urge was
too >great.  Now my back yard has LR signature tracks all over the place.  I 
>know you are all hinking I am absolutely mad...That means that there is 
>currently about 2 to 2-1/2 feet of snow back there.  I was driving around
>as if there wasn't half that much.

Sounds like you were having fun!  (I'm jealous...we've had like three
flakes here in three years.)  One word of caution though...a friend was in
a similar situation in deep snow, so deep that it would flow up and over
the plow blade on the front.  After a while, it packed into the engine bay
so tight, everything shorted out.  He pops the bonnet to figure out what's
wrong and *he can't see the engine*.  Hard-packed mass of white. :-0

In powder snow, you can easily punch through bonnet-deep snow.  Wet snow is
another matter.  Anything deeper than 8" will eventually stick you.  Back
in 1980, I was virtually the only person in Norfolk to make it in to work
after a record-breaking 20" snowfall.  These drifts outside my window in
the middle of a city street kept beckoning...Got about 1/4 way through and
got stuck.  Shoveled out, put V-bar chains on the back and had another go.
Got 1/2 way though.  Repeat, chains now on all four corners.  Lemme tell
ya', when you get stuck with V-bars on all wheels, you are *really* stuck.
Got drug out by a big, articulated skid loader....

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  |                                                   |
  |   (original owner)        (pre-production)        | 
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 99 10:59:55 -0800
Subject: Re: 2.25 oil pump?

>I need a good used oil pump.  
;
I got one.  How's $20+ shipping sound?

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 13:38:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Thompson's Water Seal on a Top

Last time I was in Canada I stopped at a hay&grain place on the way out - had to
get rid of some Northern pesos. one of the things I picked up was a gallon of
canvas waterproofing material - simply because the Thompson's cans I had found
specifically did not recommend its use on fabric.

For those lucky enough to have a trailer sales place nearby, products like this
are sold for waterproofing the canvas bits on pop-up trailers.  Go there -
either that or a marine supply, as their applications are similar.

                         ajr

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From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 15:19:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Thompson's Water Seal on a Top

FWIW
     West Marine 800-937-8895 carries 303 High tech fabric guard. Comes
in 15 oz spray or by the gallon 
part number 185977 and 151899
might be worth a call to inquire
Rgds
Steve Bradke

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From: Clinton Coates <ccoates@GOLDER.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 12:31:00 -0800
Subject: waxoyl applicator

     OK, I know this has been done to death, but here goes....
     
     I have read the all the postings on waxoyol, including the homebrew 
     recipes.  From the sounds of it, the kit is pretty cheesy, basically a 
     glorified garden sprayer pump with some attachments.  I cannot afford 
     the 200+ bucks for a compressed air applicator, so the question comes 
     down to buying the kit or making it myself.  The waxoyl kit includes a 
     2.5 gallon container plus a pressure pump and some spray attachments 
     (wand...how long? 360 sprayer nail and?).  I am looking at two garden 
     pumps. One is really skookum and looks like a heavy brass bycycle pump 
     with a hose that runs into a bucket and a spray nozzle at the other 
     end.  I can probably fab up extentions for it.  The other is a classic 
     pump up garden sprayer with a metal can and a 18" long wand.  I could 
     probably fab up a longer wand and make a flex hose with the nail 
     thingy as well.  I wonder if the sprayer tips will handle the thicker 
     waxoyl.  The bycyle pump style will spray dormant oil so it might work 
     if the goop was heated enough.
     
     But, from someone who knows, is it worth the hassle or does the waxoyl 
     kit do a decent enough job?  If I go the garden sprayer mode, I will 
     also do the homemade brew (and anyhone have any good things to say 
     about that stuff?).
     
     So many questions....
     
     Clinton

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 15:48:10 -0500
Subject: Re: waxoyl applicator

The Waxoyl applicator I got to play with (hello, Spenny!) was a cheesy piece of
plastic crud. Spray it hot, drill the tip out and try it!

Sounds to me like the better of the two sprayers is likely your man - you do
need a bit of pressure to move the goop.

                    ajr

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 12:43:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Thompson's Water Seal on a Top

Mc Guires, not sure in the spelling, makes plastic polish that works
great on the plastic windows. Cleaned mine up to almost new. The stuff
looks and is applied like car wax.

Russell G. Dushin wrote:
> WRT treating canvas with Thompson's or it's equivalent, two things:

> and as stated, keep it off your windows.  BTDT and living with the
> smudges...

-- 
Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab
http://www.users.uswest.net/~jimfoo/

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From: David Alexander <dalexander@paravant.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 16:44:21 -0500
Subject: RE: waxoyl applicator

I must have missed the posting with the homebrew for WAXOIL / WAXOYOL,can 
someone tell me how to brew myself some?
Thank you in advance.
Dave and 1961 109-sw

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From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 09:12:06 +1000
Subject: high lift to change a wheel

From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 14:59:11 -0600
Subject: Hi Jack Lift anchor site.
What is the best way to use the hijack lift to say change a tire?  Where
can
I anchor the lifting plate of the jack?  Seems to me I need to but somesort
of siderail on vehicle to use effectively.
Cwolfe
Charles - I don't, and generally wouldn't, use a highlift to change a
wheel, they are inherantly unstable and the height you need to lift the
chasis (frame) to take up the spring movement to lift the wheel off the
ground makes 'falling off the jack' much more of a liklihood than a
possibility

I use it to 'de-bog', lift the chasis, lift and push over and to braek the
beads on flat tyres, but I use a small bottle jack (or trolly jack) under
the axle for tyre/wheel changes

just my opinion

richard c

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 17:20:05 -0500
Subject: Glaciers (was snow chains)

Yes I've been having a lot of fun in the snow too, since we got about 10
inches in Ithaca here.  I have had more fun though driving over the crud in
the parking lots that has been left from the last snows.  It is that really
hard dry crap.  It is like driving over an enlarged mogul field - Yes these
LRs are really great machines.  Mine is nothing fancy - just stock, and I
just gently purred over these mounds half the size of my 88.  Lots of axel
articulation to work out the sand and salt from months of winter in
upstate.  Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm

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From: "John" <john@dmt-2000.demon.nl>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 23:48:48 +0100
Subject: 

unsubscribe lro

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From: "John" <john@dmt-2000.demon.nl>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 23:49:31 +0100
Subject: 

unsubscribe lro-digest

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From: Clinton Coates <ccoates@GOLDER.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 14:34:00 -0800
Subject: Dinitrol

Ok, looking for a chemical engineer here.

I looked up Dinitrol on Yahoo (supposed to be like Waxoyl only better).  I 
came up with this at website 
http://www.inweh.unu.edu/447/waterguidelines/casname2.html

Sooo, is it 'Dinitrol' or is it something else (name recognition).  And if 
it is, what are the fancy chemical names and where can I buy them at the 
local hardware store....

534-52-1Dinitrocresol2-Methyl-4,6-dinitrophenol; 4,6-dinitro-o-cresol

3,5-dinitro-2-hydroxytoluene; 3,5-dinitro-o-cresol; DN; DNC; DNOC; 
Antinonnin; Detal; Dinitrol; Elgetol; K III; K IV; Ditrosol; Prokarbol; 
Effusan; Lipan; Selinon; Sinox; Dekrysil

Clinton "been along time since 1st year chem" Coates

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 16:51:27 -0600
Subject: RE: high lift to change a wheel

That's been my approach as well.  Just  wondering if I had been missing
something.

Cwolfe

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From: "John" <john@dmt-2000.demon.nl>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 00:11:42 +0100
Subject: 

subscribe uk-lro

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 99 18:02:32 -0500
Subject: Re: high lift to change a wheel 

>Charles - I don't, and generally wouldn't, use a highlift to change a wheel, 
>they are inherantly unstable and the height you need to lift the chasis 
>(frame) to take up the spring movement to lift the wheel off the ground 

eh? I know, they are sketchy, but I've used mine for this purpose. Just make 
sure the two opposite wheels are chocked.

helps ALOT.

later
dave

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From: Clinton Coates <ccoates@GOLDER.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 16:05:00 -0800
Subject: Waxoyl applicator

Hi Al,

The Waxoyl applicator I got to play with (hello, Spenny!) was a cheesy 
piece of plastic crud. Spray it hot, drill the tip out and try it!

Sounds to me like the better of the two sprayers is likely your man - you 
do need a bit of pressure to move the goop.

     So what I hear you saying is that it is about as good to get a decent 
     metal bodied pump up garden sprayer and start adapting?
     
     What were the attachments included in the cheesy waxoyl system?
     
     So ya'll are talking about the skookum brass bicycle pump one?  That 
     was sort of my feeling to as it uses muscle pressure to move the 
     stuff, not wimpish compressed air.  I am most concerned about hosing 
     down the insides of the frame and crossmembers and firewall.  The 
     outsides IMHO are best dealt with by good paint and a pressure washer 
     along with some vigilance.  Keeping this in mind, I will want to make 
     a decent 360 degree spray tip.  From other descriptions, it sounds 
     like the way to do this is to have a thin tube with a flattened nail 
     stuck in the end to direct the spray every which way.  Is that the 
     case?  If so, could someone give me some sizes there?  I realize that 
     there will have to be some serious heating before the stuff will move 
     out properly.
     
     And below is the homebrew (plus a few other bits)
     
****************************************
It's pretty simple, really. Take a pound or so of parafin wax and grind
it up with a cheese grater. Soak it in a half gallon of mineral spirits
until all of the wax is dissolved. This might require allowing it to
sit in a closed container for a couple of weeks. Stirring will cause
most of the wax to dissolve, but soaking should take care of the rest.
Generally try to dissolve as much wax as the mineral spirits will hold.
After that, dump in a couple of pints of mineral oil ( less of a smell )
or non-detergent motor oil.
If the mixture is thick, thin it further with more mineral spirits until
it is of a sprayable consistency.
Buy one of those cheap engine sprayers at the local auto or tool store
that carrys air tools. It is a metal wand with an air fitting, a spray
button and a rubber tube to dip in whatever you are spraying. Rent or
borrow an air compressor.
Safely elevate your car so that you can get at the underside. Spray the
solution onto, and into every crevice, crack, hole, and surface you can
get to. Then let the excess drip off.  The beauty of it is that the stuff
will soak into any rust spots. The rust seems to hold it like a sponge.
It will also bleed into the smallest cracks and folds of the body and
protect there, too.
All you need to do is repeat this every year, and rusting should be
greatly reduced.

Michael, you probably missed the thread on White Spirit that ran a few 
months ago (although Halloween is a good time to resurrect the white 
spirit!).  Mineral spirit (regular paint thinner, not lacquer thinner) is 
the same thing that we Limeys call white spirit.  I note also that your 
recipe includes a quart of motor oil - I believe that you can get a 
significant improvement in gas mileage by using synthetic here! 

While learning about Waxoyl I came across LPS Procyon which according
the manufacturer "provides greater than 1500 hours salt spray
protection to aluminum." This seems to have been developed for
seaplanes. Anyone know how well it works on Land Rovers? Especially
those that spend some time near the sea?
*******************
Besides all the newfangled stuff...POR-15, marine enamel, etc. there's 
still a low-tech answer that does extraordinarily well.
First one wire wheels off all the loose scaly rust. Next step is to rag 
on a powerful 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and turpentine. Once 
dry, usually a day, then mix up a batch of equal parts asphalt roofing 
cement and flat black rustoleum thinned with leftover turp/oil. Melted 
beeswax is optional. Use a big brush and don't be stingy or cute, just 
slop it on thick.
Any metal treated like this will not rust, and can be touched up easily 
with a rag soaked with this devilish concoction.

As a bonus you'll smel piney-fresh for weeks.
**********************************

     I was thinking about playing around with adding chainsaw bar oil 
     instead of the mineral oil (unless I can find really cheap mineral 
     oil).  Also, chemists out there.  Is there any kind of a cheap, non 
     water soluble gelling agent that works with petroleum?  That might be 
     interesting to play with as well as it might tend to leave a slightly 
     less hard finish over time.  I have heard that over time waxoyl tends 
     to harden.  Is this so?  If so, perhaps cutting successive 
     applications wiht some diesel might help thin it a bit and rejuvenate 
     the earlier applications.
     
     Clinton "Or I could just get my frame galvanized for 400 bucks" Coates
     
     The real reason I am looking into this is that I want to hose out the 
     inside box sections on my MB 300D this summer.  Clever chaps, they 
     even provide drain holes and plugs everywhere.

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From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 18:58:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Copper coil around the exhaust

<< It could be explained to revenuers as a British accessory for brewing
tea. >>
 What else would one use a kettle for...
 
 (Although I understand copper coils are highly valued in Scotland..)

Paul

Ex- H.M. Coastguard SIII SWB
"Dougal Mc Landie"
B895 OJT (1984)
(Navy Blue with a Yellow Roof)

 

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From: IBEdwardp@aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 20:07:32 EST
Subject: Re: Some of the most fun I've had with my clothes on:

The jeep mounted 106 recoilless rifle was a definite surge! 

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From: IBEdwardp@aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 20:10:22 EST
Subject: Re: Some of the most fun I've had with my clothes on:

Uh oh. Sorry bout that. As I was saying, the jeep mounted 106 recoilless rifle
was a major surge.  Likewise, calling in an 81mm willie peter concentration
would light up your day and everyone elses!

Ed Bailey

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From: "James G.Wolf" <elvenwood@whro.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 20:40:41 -0500
Subject: RE: coil

>Somebody wrote recently about coiling copper tubing around the exhaust
>manifold.  This, of course, makes good sense but begs the question of where
>to put the sour mash kettle and the cooling coils.
>It could be explained to revenuers as a British accessory for brewing tea.

The cooling coil could be a new oil cooler, as for the mash, well what's
wrong with a gravity feed from the roof rack?
Jim Wolf

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From: "david hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 21:17:07 -0600
Subject: Waxoyl alternatives

Reading some of the alternative recipes to Waxoyl just blows my mind about
the extremes people will go to to rust proof a Land Rover.  Time is money,
and the effort involved in some of these home brew recipes is amazing.  I
think if I tried some of these ideas - even if I could find all the
ingredients - my wife and my genteel neighbors would think I had finally
gone mad.

David Hope
64 llA

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 22:27:24 EST
Subject: Re: free to a good home

In a message dated 99-03-11 09:19:40 EST, you write:

<< Guys have been using FedEx, or UPS to do pickups direct from my house, so
 all the paperwork is in the name of the new owner. I have the forms for
 doing proper carbon copy bills of sale, etc, and I've been providing
 invoices of contents, and weight for shipping purposes.  I'll look tonight,
 and forward you a complete list of the relevant bits, and weights tomorrow
 A.M.  
 Regards,
 Chris Risely >>
Thanks, I appreciate it. 

Bill lawrence

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 22:31:49 EST
Subject: Re: Starvation

In a message dated 99-03-11 10:30:36 EST, you write:

<< on a steep inclide the float bowl can become swamped. When you throw in
 altitude, this problem can be even greater.
 
 John Wood
 
 >>
Good point. 

Bill lawrence

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 23:11:30 EST
Subject: Re: Some of the most fun I've had with my clothes on:

In a message dated 99-03-11 20:09:08 EST, you write:

<< The jeep mounted 106 recoilless rifle was a definite surge!  >>

#3 son, the Ranger, says they still use some form of a recoilless rifle and
the propellant fumes are so noxious that they recommend the crew only be
allowed to fire three rounds a day. More dangerous to the crew than the enemy.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: daveb <davebobeck@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 23:58:43 -0500
Subject: re: Waxoyl alternatives/my recipe

**************
From: "david hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 21:17:07 -0600
Subject: Waxoyl alternatives

Reading some of the alternative recipes to Waxoyl just blows my mind
...snip...the effort involved in some of these home brew recipes is
amazing.  I think if I tried some of these ideas -...snip... - my wife
and my genteel neighbors would think I had finally gone mad.

**************
David, David... they established that the minute you showed up in a Land
Rover...
Now go and find that wax toilet sealing ring, and melt it on your
manifold along with some white spirits and some ground turkey...
Wait, I think I've got these threads mixed up...oh well, never mind...

hey this gives me an idea:

Dave's "Homebrewed Rustproofing S**t You can Actually Eat" Pie

Collect the following items:

1 package of black licorice
1 16oz bottle Hershey'sTM Chocolate Syrup
1 small jar of Nutella
3 oz Single Malt Scotch Whiskey
20 large marshmallows
1/2 cup milk
1 chocolate pie crust

Chop the licorice into little tiny bits, combine with marshmallows,
milk, and nutella, melt it on the stove at a very low heat until you
achieve a nice smooth or lumpy consistency, or until you get grossed out
or pissed off because it isn't working because Bobeck just made this
stupid recipe up without ever trying it. If you haven't given up yet,
try mixing the whiskey and some (not all, for Glub's sake) of the
Hershey'sTM until it looks like soemthing about the consistency and odor
of what you would spray on the bottom of your Land Rover. Spoon the
heinous mixture into the pie crust and refrigerate for a long time. For
those of you that live places where you actually need waxoyl, just stick
it outside...(October through March only please). Drink the rest of the
Scotch and then serve pie to your enemies/mother in law/mean dog next
door/...mmmm... serve cold unlike real rustproofing.

Spread leftover mix onto bottom of Land Rover.

Disclaimer- this is a spoof, if you make this let me know if you
survive, and if its any good... 

bon appetit
dave

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From: "Clinton D. Coates" <clinton_coates@bc.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 21:10:17 -0800
Subject: more waxoyl

Got this from DejaNews
*********
While on a recent visit to the UK, I checked out all the auto part
stores while I was there. I noticed that just about everybody sold
some stuff called Waxoyl. 

I asked my friends and they said, that the stuff works and that it's
never too late to Waxoyl your car.

Well I have been trying to find this stuff over here in the US but I
can't find it. However I have heard mix opinions about this stuff.
Some say it's good and other's say it's bad.

Long story on this next one, but I found a recipe for this stuff (well
maybe not the exact same stuff) and actually made some of it in my
garage and I am currently testing it on a piece of steel. One side
painted and the other said is bare metal. Both sides were rusty but I
sandblasted them prior which should simulate surface rust on a car.

I have been trying to contact the guy who posted this mixture but he
has yet to reply.

Anyway, here's the recipe.

Take two pounds of parafin wax and shread it into bits using a cheese
grater. Then combine that with about a gallon of mineral spirits
(sometimes called Naptha). 

I mixed all of this up in a gallon pickel jar in a sink with hot water
around it. This way the wax dissolves in about 30 minutes.

I asked a chemist from work what mineral spirits exactly was. He said
it is benzine. Which is nasty stuff.

Then I poured in about a half pint of mineral oil.

The theory to using mineral spirits is because wax will only dissolve
in petroleum products which benzine is. Of course you could probably
dissolve parifin wax in diesel fuel, kerosene (called parifin in the
UK), gasoline (god forbid!).

The mineral oil also dissolves in this stuff.

Anyway,  the piece of steel I coated caused any water to sheet and run
right off. The piece of steel has been sitting in a sink of water for
about an hour and the water has turned a slight rust color (probably
from some uncoated surface) but the bare metal side looks like it did
when I first coated it with my homemade waxoly.

My car will be back from the painter Friday. It's a 1980 Fiat Spider.
It had some rust but it wasn't too bad. There is still some rust
around the edges of the quarterpanels (rear wings) which is visible
from the inside of the trunk (boot) but not from underneath. The guy
would have had to remove the entire fenderwell and replace it. But it
wasn't too bad. It's just around the edges.

My main concern is that mineral spirits might harn fresh paint. But I
think I can minimize this.

However the piece of metal had only been sprayed about 30 minutes
before I coated it with my homemade waxoyl and it didn't lift the
paint. I know of one place where this stuff might leak onto the outer
body panel and I think I can either wipe it off or it won't hurt it
anyway.

I plan on using one of those engine degreaser tools that you hook to
an air compressor. One of those pestiside sprayers that you pump up
should also work.

I need some opinions, especially from you blokes in the UK. Should I
spray this stuff in all the nooks and crannies in my car? Will soaking
wax into rusted metal give my new paintjob a fighting chance?

What is in this Waxoly you buy in autoparts stores like at Halfords?

I checked out my friend's X 1/9 which he waxolyed and it looks like a
thick tar like substance.

The mixture I made is very thin and should soak into any rusted metal.
I have heard that Finnigan's Waxoly is really thick and won't find
it's way into all the little cracks.

I spilt some on my garage floor and the stuff soaked right into the
concrete and left a hard layer of wax behind.

What do you guys think about this? Should I go for it? I don't plan on
driving this car in the winter except on dry days (it doesn't snow
much here in the Southeast but it rains all the time). And in the
spring when it rains one day after the next. Summer is quite dry where
I live.

I want to do everything possible to seal up any rust and at least get
5 years out of this paintjob.

1980 Fiat 2000 Spider (Fuel injected)
1981 Fiat 2000 Spider (Dual carbs)
1981 Fiat X 1/9       (Fuel injected)
1994 Jeep Wrangler    (2.5 liter)

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From: urbncby@sgi.net (Scott C. Wickham Jr.)
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 01:05:19 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: high lift to change a wheel

> I know, they are sketchy, but I've used mine for this purpose. Just make
>sure the two opposite wheels are chocked.

  Done it a ton of times myself.  I paid $65 bucks for that jack, I'm using
it for every damn thing I can think of.  One mod I made to the jack was to
use the 'smoke wrench' to enlarge the hole at the top so I can get a bow
shackle in there.  I used the top foot that comes stock with the jack when
I was using the jack like a come-along once and the bolt broke and almost
got a chain to the head!

   Scott C. Wickham Jr.
     Pittsburgh, Pa.
     1972 Ser III
     Zebra truck
     

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[spamkill:  hostnames start w/letter input: %s]	 Received: from 
nathan.enteract.com (dscheidt@207.229.143.6)

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Organization: Deja News Mail  (http://www.my-dejanews.com:80)
From: "Peter Gozenya" <petergozenya@my-dejanews.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 07:22:04 -0000
Subject: Land Rover test track in Arizona?

Hello List,

I am going to be in the Tuscon area and had heard that Land Rover has a test 
track in the area and though I might swing by and luck into seeing something 
cool.

I recollect someone posting about this a while back but  I lucked out searching 
the archives.

Anybody know where it is?

Thanks

Peter

-----== Sent via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==-----
http://www.dejanews.com/  Easy access to 50,000+ discussion forums

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From: Charles Irvin <cirvin1258@juno.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 01:13:06 -0800
Subject: Re: Some of the most fun I've had with my clothes on:

On Thu, 11 Mar 1999 23:11:30 EST DNDANGER@aol.com writes:
>In a message dated 99-03-11 20:09:08 EST, you write:
><< The jeep mounted 106 recoilless rifle was a definite surge!  >>
>#3 son, the Ranger, says they still use some form of a recoilless 
>rifle and
>the propellant fumes are so noxious that they recommend the crew only 
>be
>allowed to fire three rounds a day. More dangerous to the crew than 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>allowed to fire three rounds a day. More dangerous to the crew than 
>the enemy.

...Thanks, but I think I'll stick to Spectres!

Charles
a properly aimed RPG can ruin your whole day

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