The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 12:45:15 +0200
Subject: Re: ROVER TRADE (Do you have a Range Rover, but want a SERIES vehicle?)

Jamie wrote;

  ^^^^^

No offence, Jamie, but this always makes me smile...

More seriously, though, be aware that a 5-10 year old Rangie may 
require more maintenance than your vgc Series vehicle.  More 
fiddly, finnicky moving parts to go wrong, far more (Lucas) 
electricals and ~omigod~ an ECU and electric windows...

The 5-10 year bracket is (depending on the mileage) the time when 
power steering box, propshafts, camshaft, lifters, rocker shafts, 
timing chain, bushes and all start to go wrong.  Beware the "good 
deal" on a Rangie and assess your disposable income.  RR bits 
are generally more costly, esp. the electronikky widgets, than are 
Series bits.  Exceptions are suspension and brakes.

If you can find one you could always go for a "real" Rangie from the 
70s or early 80s with manual windows and carburettors.  All the 
disposable bits which can fall off will have already done so, and the 
teething troubles (like replacing the window winders with a more 
solid version and tearing the leather that rots in contact with EP90 
off the steering wheel) have been dealt with.

In terms of speed and comfort, however, you won't be disappointed 
by changing to a Rangie.  Just look after the $$$ because anyone 
who tells you they spend less maintenance-wise on their 7-10 year 
old Rangie than on their 20 year old well maintained Series vehicle 
is very lucky with the Rangie and unlucky with the Series mobile.

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR
lusting after mint limestone '71RR parked a few streets down from 
mine...

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From: Karl Kurz <kkurz@acad.umm.maine.edu>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 07:23:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RoRo's from UK/NS/USA

John, Next one I bring over I'll give you a call, I could have used some
help getting the unit on the truck and you could have earned your gill.

Halifax is indeed a nice town, but I had the runaround clearing Canadian
Customs.... I learned a lot that time. I still would use Halifax as POE
instead of Boston or Newark. I brought a Lotus 14 and a RR Cloud 1 through
there some years ago and it was a nightmare. The only thing that confused
CanCustoms was why I was bringing it into Halifax instead of Boston (I
live a whole lot closer to Halifax then Boston).  I made the mistake of
offering my Concealed Carry Permit along with my DL and Passport for
positive ID, and your guys really went ballistic.... I thought I was in
for a body cavity search..... doesn't your government trust you ?
I'll surely contact you next trip.... how far are you from Halifax ?
I would be coming through Digby and up the Annapolis Valley

Karl K. Kurz, N1JZY
POB 352, Machiasport
Maine, USA, 04655
207-255-8802

Politicians and diapers have one thing in common, they both should be
changed regularly and for the same reason.

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 13:13:21 +0200
Subject: Re: Capstan Winch Parts

Just thinkin'

If you're fabricating a shaft anyway, couldn't you use cv joints from 
something small, crashed and J@p@n*se?  Perhaps too big? 
They'd take the torque, would probably be better at high rpm and 
are freely available.

Someone must make small cv joints, too?

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 12:53:46 +0200
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure SU's and Oil Bath Air Filters

Nate wrote;

> Oil Pressure SU:  It appears that most American electric oil pressure sending
> units are set up to give zero resistance at no pressure and increasing

Nate won't it be cheaper to purchase a US gauge and sender unit 
than a British sender unit?  Then it would work the correct way 
round, they'd be matched for each other, and spares would be 
freely available.

"Heresy" I hear you cry.

Just in case we're taking the fun out of this...

I bet they don't make gauges in imperial diameters to fit the hole in 
the dash, right!?!

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR with fubar OPSU, watching this with 
interest...

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 08:09:09 EST
Subject: Continued eratic acceleration, ideas?

Hi all,

Well, it was as bad today as it has ever been.  Symptoms:
The truck starts and idles fine.  
The truck responds to the throttle fine.
Under load, the truck has eratic acceleration, similar to a clogged fuel
filter

If I push in the clutch during one of these episodes, the motor responds
normally.  Let the clutch out and I chug along eratically.

Air filter is cleaned out.
Carb is superficially clean (didn't remove the jets)
Fuel filter looks relatively clean (clear glass with cartridge)
Plug wires are new and are firmly in place.
Battery cable is firmly attached.
Spark plugs are tight in their sockets.

Ideas?

Nate

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 09:15:02 -0400
Subject: Re: RoRo's from UK/NS/USA

and Karl Kurz wrote:
> John, Next one I bring over I'll give you a call, I could have used some
> help getting the unit on the truck and you could have earned your gill.
> Halifax is indeed a nice town, but I had the runaround clearing Canadian
> Customs.... I learned a lot that time. I still would use Halifax as POE
> instead of Boston or Newark. I brought a Lotus 14 and a RR Cloud 1 through
> there some years ago and it was a nightmare. The only thing that confused
> CanCustoms was why I was bringing it into Halifax instead of Boston (I
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> Karl K. Kurz, N1JZY
> POB 352, Machiasport

I am about 5 min off the 101 highway at Kingston (exit 17)
Once you know the customs procedure it isn't too bad.
Yeah showing any sort of document  that suggests you may have a hand gun
around would set up very bad vibes with them.
You do have to remember that Nova Scotia is a favourite spot for illegal
importation of naughty pharmaceuticals and this make the customs
officials
suspicious of any thing that they don't at first understand.
Stay in touch   John

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 08:11:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Capstan Winch Parts

>If you're fabricating a shaft anyway, couldn't you use cv joints from
>something small, crashed and J@p@n*se?

Yes, but wouldn't the next of kin complain.....oh, you mean the CAR.....8*)

> Perhaps too big?

I'd think so - most of what I've seen in junkyards is 2X too big.

>Someone must make small cv joints, too?

Yes, but expensive is the term there.

I just had a look at the parts listing for a Fairey capstan winch - thanks to
the pal who had them up on his site!

Hmmmm....pretty complex, but doable by a small machine shop. The engine bit is
nothing more than a crank dog with a slot milled down the center - and the rest
of it's small castings.

The shaft is the least of the issues with that.

                         ajr

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 08:26:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Continued eratic acceleration, ideas?

Nate, when I had similar problems upon putting the new motor in Mr. C, I found a
      clog in a less-than-obvious place.

The Weber 34ICH has a screw-in body for the float valve - turns out that is is
      machined with a well in the threaded portion that necks down to the needle
      valve seat, then opens again around the body of the needle valve to allow
      fuel passage.

A bit of manufacturing crud from a fuel filter had gotten into the back side of
      the needle-valve seating and would float around, partially clogging the
      fuel feed when under heavy acceleration. Drove me nuts - i'd open the
      carb, clean the jets and the damn thing would run perfectly until the next
      episode.

Turned out that piece of spooge woupld be flipped away from the jet when I
      inverted the cover, and would take a while to reseat and cause problems.

I'd recommend a good carb. stripping,looking for debris in the passages before
      the float valve.

                         Alan

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 09:29:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Continued eratic acceleration, ideas?

NADdMD@aol.com wrote:
> Hi all,
> Well, it was as bad today as it has ever been.  Symptoms:
> The truck starts and idles fine.
> The truck responds to the throttle fine.
> Under load, the truck has eratic acceleration, similar to a clogged fuel
> filter

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
> Ideas?
> Nate

Nate if you didn't remove the jets you didn't clean the carb.
The orifices are so small they have to be blown clear and you would not
have seen the blockage with them in place.
It could well be a tiny piece of the paper from the fuel filter or
rubber
from a hose.
John

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 99 08:41:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Continued eratic acceleration, ideas? 

Nate- 
Did you say it does make a difference if you drive with the air filter 
removed from the carb? 

When you say that the engine idles fine, responds to the throttle well, and 
bogs under load I assume that you mean when the engine is stationary it runs 
and "accelerates"  fine, until you try to move the car. Is there a 
difference stationary between clutch in and clutch out (in neutral 
obviously)? What sort of carb is it? have somebody look down the carb (make 
sure it aint backfiring) and see if there is extra gas coming down the 
throat. Are you sure the timing is set correctly? What about the valves? 
Valve adjustment nut can back off, has happened to me before. What about the 
accelerator linkage, is it loose on the shaft? I would say vac leak making 
the mixture lean but that is more likely to affect idle. Open throtttle 
means low vaccuum. Mouse in the intake? It really does sound like a fueling 
problem though, but it could be electrical too. Check the points, are they 
worn? How is the gap. How bout the dist. cap, a bad one will make the car 
run the way you describe...

good luck
dave

***********************
Air filter is cleaned out.
Carb is superficially clean (didn't remove the jets)
Fuel filter looks relatively clean (clear glass with cartridge) 
Plug wires are new and are firmly in place.
Battery cable is firmly attached.
Spark plugs are tight in their sockets.

Ideas?

Nate

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 08:40:16 EST
Subject: Re: Continued eratic acceleration, ideas?

In a message dated 3/19/99 8:27:58 AM Eastern Standard Time,
john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca writes:

> Nate if you didn't remove the jets you didn't clean the carb.
>  The orifices are so small they have to be blown clear and you would not
>  have seen the blockage with them in place.

Only thing that bothers me is that got better and now is worse.  Somehow it
seems like a plugged (even partially plugged) jet wouldn't get better again.  

Could this be something related to the dizzy?  Loose plate? Bad coil?  I
dunno, I guess I'll strip down the carb after looking under the dizzy cap. 

Nate

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 15:32:10 +0200
Subject: Re: Continued eratic acceleration, ideas?

> Ideas?

Pinhole in fuel pump diaphragm?

All the best,

Andy

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 15:36:36 +0200
Subject: Re: Capstan Winch Parts

> Yes, but wouldn't the next of kin complain.....oh, you mean the CAR.....8*)

<grin>

> >Someone must make small cv joints, too?
> Yes, but expensive is the term there.

Another of those minor problems...

All the best,

Andy

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 08:52:24 EST
Subject: Re: Continued eratic acceleration, ideas?

In a message dated 3/19/99 8:49:03 AM Eastern Standard Time,
andyg@sherco.co.za writes:

> > Ideas?
>  Pinhole in fuel pump diaphragm?

Unlikely--it's a new fuel pump but what about a problem in the accelerator
pump on the carb?  

Nate

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 99 09:03:22 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Continued eratic acceleration, ideas? 

>Unlikely--it's a new fuel pump but what about a problem in the accelerator 
>pump on the carb?  

yeah, check that too.
dave

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[spamkill: from unknown input: %s]	 Received: from unknown (HELO 
pop.dnvr.uswest.net) (207.225.102.125)
From: jimfoo@uswest.net

 Air filter is cleaned out.
<< Carb is superficially clean (didn't remove the jets)
 Fuel filter looks relatively clean (clear glass with cartridge)
 Plug wires are new and are firmly in place.
 Battery cable is firmly attached.
 Spark plugs are tight in their sockets.
 Ideas? >>

Do you have a filter on the pickup in the tank? I don't, but it looks 
like I may have at one time. Could be clogged with rust. Take the bonnet
off and drive and look at the fuel filter to see if it is still getting
gas, and at keast you will have a better idea of where to start looking.

-- 
Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab
http://www.users.uswest.net/~jimfoo/

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From: "David C. Stevens" <chsteven@aerotek.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 09:15:53 -0500
Subject: Blown Manifold

Hey all,

Just as I was arriving at work this morning, all of a sudden I began
hearing all sorts of "bad-exhaust-noise" coming from the front of the
engine. A bad front pipe, I figured, rolling into the parking lot.
Wrong! I opened the bonnet and, to my horror, discovered a dime-sized
hole right under the carb in the intake manifold. The question of the
day is, is it dangerous to drive this thing 20 or so miles home tonight?
(I don't think duct tape is gonna work this time).

Chris Stevens

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[spamkill: from unknown input: %s]	 Received: from unknown (HELO 
pop.dnvr.uswest.net) (207.225.102.125)
http://www.users.uswest.net/~jimfoo/

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 06:51:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Capstan madness

The ones we get here have a dog clutch on the end of the shaft that
isolates the shaft from turning until you need it. Ray
----------
> From: Peter Hope <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Re: Capstan madness
> Date: Thursday, March 18, 1999 8:39 PM
> >I've seen Keonig drum winches with clutch mechanisms, yes, and OK,
> >maybe they exist for certain capstans, but the basic Fairey ain't

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> >got one, and I doubt the aeroparts unit does either.
> Just to add to this, my Koenig drum does not have clutches associated
with

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From: Bob & Sue Bernard <bobnsueb@saber.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 07:12:01 -0800
Subject: PTO U-joints

Hi,
I have a catalog that shows some small u-joints for steering etc. They show
all kinds of things for building race cars etc.
It's 5-6 years old so I don't even know if they are still there though.
I couldn't find a website and I don't have an 800 #.
Still it's worth a try.. 402-474-4411. (Area code could be changed also)
Speedway Motors
300 Van Dorn
Lincoln,Nebraska

Bob B

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 10:42:02 -0500
Subject: Across the pond

Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com> wrote:

>As far as I know, if you use a RoRo then the vehicle must be empty (can
>anybody confirm this?).

Doesn't have to be, but it *will* be by the time you get it!  Tools/tool
boxes, spare parts, even spare tires are liable to get nicked...something
like spare rear axles (complete with diffs) likely won't.  Not too long
ago, I went to the port to help a friend bring in a '64 109 diesel pickup
(bed had the aforementioned cargo).  An army officer and his wife were
there at the same time, picking up their top-of-the-line Volvo that they
had bought during his posting in Europe.  Battery was flat.  Turns out the
ship's crew hung out in the Volvo, smoking, putting their feet on the dash,
listening to the CD 'til the battery died.  No one messed with the
well-worn Rover.

>The cost, excluding duty, should be below $1000, especially if you can
>handle the customs clearance and stripping the container yourself (never
>been able to do this at Newark).

Cost for a contianer will likely be twice that.  RoRo is $600 to $800
(Liverpool to Portsmouth, VA) plus port taxes, customs and EPA fees.  BTW,
Portsmouth is an excellent port of entry: big enough so it is routine,
small enough so you won't get lost in the port or paperwork.  Friendly
customs agents, too....  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  |                                                   |
  |   (original owner)        (pre-production)        | 
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 06:17:40 -1000
Subject: Re: Importing old Land Rovers from England

>Port Hueneme costs about $1275.00, as of a few years ago)
Is that from the UK?  Hmm that's not too bad at all.  It is 900 RoRo from
Hawaii.
>Bad thing about containers - it it gets stored above deck and happens to
>fall off in rough seas, it gets sunk by the local navy/coast guard!

You are kidding right?  Does the shippers insurance cover you?

And does anyone know how expensive it is to rent/ship a container?

Pete

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From: "D.Kenner" <af014@issc.debbs.ndhq.dnd.ca>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 11:21:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: CB Channels

"Peeler, Gilbert W" <Gilbert.W.Peeler@WGP.TWC.com> writes -

>We recently picked CB channel 35 as the main radio channel for the ONSLRS
>Uwharrie Safari rally in N.C. Easter week-end.  I posted the question on
>several other lists about promoting Channel 35 as a "un-official" Rover
>channel.  

Well, OVLR has used channel one for CB for sixteen years now, ALROC before us 
used the same channel.  At Greek Peak, we settled on channel one for CB.

Couple questions - Why channel 35?  What about people running ancient CB's that 
don't have a channel 35?  Who came up with this one?  If I was to pick an "un-
official" Rover channel, I'd go and see what people were using, though I rather 
doubt clubs that have been using one particular channel or another are going to 
switch anytime soon.

As per channel seven, I think it might be used out west.

Rgds,

PS don't forget those running two metres...

Dixon Kenner
LSIS/IT Manager, Land Staff, Department of National Defence
(613) 945-0370, Fax (613) 945-0482

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 06:23:12 -1000
Subject: Re: Capstan Winch Parts

>If you're fabricating a shaft anyway, couldn't you use cv joints from
>something small, crashed and J@p@n*se?

Hmm sounds like the rear drive shafts for the RAV or the Honda SUT (thats
Sports Utility Toy)
Boy those things are tiny considering they are moving a vehicle.  I am just
waiting for some yoyo to take of them off road, get stuck and hitch the
towrope to one of the drive shafts  :-)

Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 06:25:09 -1000
Subject: Re: Continued eratic acceleration, ideas?

>Ideas?

Large flakes of rust clogging the pickup tube in the gas tank?  To big to
get past the screen on the end of it.  I did have this happen with a
spitfire once.  Drove me nuts.
Pete

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 11:43:57 EST
Subject: Weber jet question

Do the jets screw back out through the float bowl?  No instructions here, just
an exploded (exploited) diagram.

Other than the two jets in the bowl, the one on the side and the accelerator
pump, any thing else in there to check?

Nate

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 11:59:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Weber jet question

Re: Anything else to check:

Make sure the fuel path up to the float-s valve is OK - as I said i ran into
trouble there myself.

                         ajr

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From: Charles Irvin <cirvin1258@juno.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 09:02:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Importing old Land Rovers from England

No joke, Pete - I didn't know until a friend of mine that was in the
Austrailian Navy (on a destroyer) told me that they sink them all the
time! Unknown if insurance covers it or not, but if it's anything like
insurance for air freight, you probably aren't covered enough to replace
what you lose. (in most cases)

Funny thing about sea containers: it seems the price varies depending on
where it's coming from/going to...about 10 years ago, it cost $2200 to
send a 40-footer from Mexico City, to Germany, but $4000 from Mexico City
to Los Angeles! ( a MUCH shorter trip)

Charles

On Fri, 19 Mar 1999 06:17:40 -1000 "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
writes:

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 12:37:26 EST
Subject: Re: Blown Manifold

In a message dated 3/19/99 6:16:38 AM Pacific Standard Time,
chsteven@aerotek.com writes:

<< a dime-sized
 hole right under the carb in the intake manifold. The question of the
 day is, is it dangerous to drive this thing 20 or so miles home tonight?
 (I don't think duct tape is gonna work this time). >>
Duct tape will work fine or better, just tape a quarter under the tape , over
the hole.  I'd be a lot more interested in how the hole was created however,
drive by shooting?

Zack

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 19:20:01 +0100
Subject: Rechroming balls?

Has anyone ever had their balls ( of the swivel variety) stripped and
rechromed? I now have three pairs which it seems a pity to throw away,
and I was wondering if it could be done?

Otherwise they'll end up as ashtrays!

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
      Visit the "Native Experience" website at 
          http://www.channel6.dk/native
Contact the "Native Experience" film unit in Alaska
          telephone   +1 (907) 230 0359
          e-mail      channel6@alaska.net
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 13:23:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Rechroming balls?

Adrian,

This can be done - i've known several folks who've had it done, including
Scooter out in Pittsburgh (ubncby@whateverhisISPis.xxx).

Another thing folks have done (and I plan to try next time I need mess with 'em)
is filling and epoxy-painting the swivels. There's a lister (who's name I forget
and I'm sure he'll chide me) who did his several years ago and then gaitered
them and they're practially still as-done.

Don't throw them away - they can be fixed!

                    ajr

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From: Russ Wilson <gambrinus66@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 10:31:17 -0800
Subject: Re: Rechroming balls?

>Adrian,
>This can be done - i've known several folks who've had it done, including
>Scooter out in Pittsburgh (ubncby@whateverhisISPis.xxx).
>Another thing folks have done (and I plan to try next time I need mess
>with 'em)
>is filling and epoxy-painting the swivels. There's a lister (who's name I
>forget
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
>them and they're practially still as-done.
>Don't throw them away - they can be fixed!
You can find Scooter at     urbncby@sgi.net    I'm not sure what he does or
did with his balls...  Don't want to know really.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
				Dennis Miller

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 99 13:37:19 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Rechroming balls? 

>Another thing folks have done (and I plan to try next time I need mess with 
>'em) is filling and epoxy-painting the swivels. There's a lister (who's name I 
>forget and I'm sure he'll chide me)

Wasn't me but i'll be happy to chide you anyway.
It was Trevor Easton, and I believe he (Miss Golightly actually)still has the 
blue balls.

later
dave

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 10:55:07 -0800
Subject: Re: Rechroming balls?

Adrian we do it all the time here with good results. You dont need hard
chrome the decorative stuff works fine.
having said that we tried about four platers until we found one who could
fill in the holes cleanly and whose chrome did not flake off at the
corners.  RAY

----------

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From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 14:28:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Rechroming balls?

Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:
> Adrian,
> This can be done - i've known several folks who've had it done, including
> FWIW:

   I was one of those that used the Epoxy fill and fix method.  i sold
my series lll last year but the fix held up for the year I had it and is
still doing just fine.
Rgds
Steve Bradke  '68 series lla 88

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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@netscape.net>
Date: 19 Mar 99 12:47:02 MST
Subject: Le Aardvar est Morte-Update

Hi all--

Dave and Zack wrote:

  << Didn't Aardvark refuse to run properly a few miles into a previous trip 
  to visit your sister? Prehaps Aardvark was trying to tell you something 
  on that trip. Next time take the Volvo on visits to your sister. And 
  hopefully Aardvark will be back on the road soon. 
  >> 
  If anyone remembers, I warned Art not to go to Colorado Springs. (recall the

  terrible drivers thread.) Another symptom of Nigels disease? or simple 
  coincidence, I don't think so.... 
  Good luck Art 

Unfortunatly the Vovlo is at my buddies house in Geogia-don't get it until
June when I move down there and open the gunshop.

Called My Sister and told her that I'm not visiting here anymore. :-)Evrytime
I drive the 120 miles up there something breaks!! Anywhere else-no problems!!!

Update-went out yeasterday in a lull in the snow and pulled the valve
cover-found the #8 pushrod (for #4 exhaust Valve bent)Need to pull head to see
why, but with the snow yesterday and last night, it's a bit cold! Supposed to
be in the 60's tomorrow so will do it then.

Looks as if it isn't as bad as i thought! That noise and smoke had me worried!

Art Bitterman
1960 SII Land Rover "Aardvark"
1983 Volvo 245 Turbo "Aardvark II"
"If it ain't leaking, it must be empty"

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From: "Jeremy Brooks" <jbrookslegacy@hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 13:52:36 PST
Subject: Must Sell Series 3 109 Pickup CHASSIS 

Hi All,

I am trying to make room for my Series 1 project and must clear out a 
Series 3 frame, military spec suitable for a 109 pick up. It is truly 
rust free, but has a tiny crack in the passenger side front dumb iron 
and it is RHD i.e. for British roads.

I am motivated to sell, and am asking $1000.00 US o.b.o.. It is located 
near Toronto, Ontario (about 100 miles from Buffalo NY)

Sincerely

Jeremy

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From: urbncby@sgi.net (Scott C. Wickham Jr.)
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 18:10:49 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Rechroming balls?

>i've known several folks who've had it done, including
>Scooter out in Pittsburgh (ubncby@whateverhisISPis.xxx).

  Actually that was Wes Harris from Pgh.  He cruises the list, he's at
wharris@midmon.com.  I just used the best ones I had (happened to be 1959
balls that now fit the zebra truck) and filled them with 90 wt/grease
blend.

   Scott C. Wickham Jr.
     Pittsburgh, Pa.
     1972 Ser III
     Zebra truck
     

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 23:03:27 +1000
Subject: New Editor for Land Rover Owners Club mag

From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Ron wrote:
>>Don't ask me how but I got elected as the editor for the
>>Land Rover Owners Club of Australia (Sydney Branch)
>>So look out, I might steal stuff from the list for publication!

Frank replied:
>take this as an official invitation to use anything off
>mine you like......

Thanks, Frank.  I appreciate that.

When I said "steal" it was a throw-away line.  Whenever I used stuff I
found elsewhere (I used to be editor of the Hillman Owners Club of
Australia -[HOCA] , and editor of the
Australian Radio Controlled Helicopter Association [ARCHA - great sew-on
badges], and editor of the Sydney Society of Model Engineers [SSME]
newsletters), I always attribute (tell the reader from where I got the
stuff).  I don't want to be accused of plagiarism.  Ditto when I used to
write a column for Australian Radio Control Modeller, years ago when I used
to punt model boats around the lake and planes around the sky.
However, in that case, I rarely, if ever, used anyone else's stuff 'cos it
was a column where I explained how radio control systems worked.

I have often written to magazine editors asking for permission to reprint.
Mostly, permission is given.

Looking at the other comments that have arisen since I started this thread,
perhaps I should have shut up!

Ron

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 22:35:43 +1000
Subject: Oil pressure sending unit (again)

Nate wrote:
>will I have to bite the bullet and replace sending unit and
>gauge. Sounds like the only other option is to buy the
>$150 (!!!!!) sending unit from RN

Yer gotta be joking!  There must be source in the UK which would cost less
even with postage.

Regards,

Ron Beckett
'86 Range Rover 4.6L
Webmaster Hillman Owners Club of Australia
Webmaster Land Rover Owners Club of Australia (Sydney Branch)
check my web site http//www.users.bigpond.com/hillman

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From: "Con P. Seitl" <conseitl@sprint.ca>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 20:40:41 -0400
Subject: Another Day........

Had one of "accidents" on Wednesday. Stopped for a traffic light in
Dartmouth and a Honda Civic tried to mate with the old Pig. Smacked me a
good one 'e did. We pulled over and inspected the damage. His front
bumper was peeled and sitting a little off. Grill was non-existant, as
was his fancy Honda crest. Hood was gouged back about 8 inches and had a
crease right  up the center. One broken headlight , and antifreeze
leaking out onto the ground. I sorta felt sorry for him, and told him so
" Gee guy, that sucks" We looked at the damage to my LR, and discovered
that the tow plate and ball match up nicely to his newly designed front,
but the only damage was the rubber tow ball cover was split. I told him
that was gonna cost him......maybe 89 cents. We exchanged papers, but he
said he didn't want to go through insurance because his rates were high
enough already. Well, I let him off the hook without paying for the
cover ( nice of me eh?). Wasn't later down the road that I discovered
that my coffee was laying on the floor empty! Now I'm pissed. Gotta get
one of those fancy schmancy cup holders.........
     Land Rover...1     Honda.....0
Maybe I'm going to start painting little car symbols on my front wing.

Cheers,
Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1991 RR "hers"

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 15:06:14 -1000
Subject: Re: Importing old Land Rovers from England

>it cost $2200 to
>send a 40-footer from Mexico City, to Germany, but $4000 from Mexico City
>to Los Angeles! ( a MUCH shorter trip)
I wonder how much of that is due to US customs and other "fees and fines'
imposed by the puzle palace we lovinly refer to as congress

Pete

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 18:02:09 -0700
Subject: funny noises

I went down to have my front bumper, winch mount, rock sliders and other
little bits galvanized the other day. Got down there unloaded
everything, 
got my crank out to start it, and had one hell of a time trying without
the
bumper. I finally had to borrow my bumper to start it. I did put my new 
starter in as soon as I got home. But anyway, on my way back I was
shifting 
out of overdrive and heard a loud, not quite grinding sound. Not like
tranny gears grinding, but kind of a softer grinding. It quickly
stopped, 
and then the sound was somewhat similar to a card in bicycle spokes. It
was worst when in od and coasting, least when in od with throttle, and
somewhat
there when out of od with throttle or not. Today it stopped making noise
all together. I have never had the od apart, so I was looking for
suggestions as to what to look for in case it isn't obvious. Also is
there
any place to get Toro parts, or do any Fairey parts fit the Toro besides
shifting fork pads? It still seems to work the same as it always did, so 
I'm still driving it.
-- 
Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab
http://www.users.uswest.net/~jimfoo/

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 15:13:16 -1000
Subject: Re: Rechroming balls?

>Has anyone ever had their balls stripped and
>rechromed

WOW, everyone must be tired at the end of a long work week or somthing.  I
can't believe noone jumped on this one.

Have a nice weekend all.
Spring Break YEAH!!!
Pete

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 18:12:57 -0700
Subject: Re: CB Channels

D.Kenner wrote:
 
<< Well, OVLR has used channel one for CB for sixteen years now, ALROC
before us used the same channel.  At Greek Peak, we settled on channel
one for CB.
 
 Couple questions - Why channel 35?  What about people running ancient
CB's that
 don't have a channel 35?  Who came up with this one?  If I was to pick
an "un-
 official" Rover channel, I'd go and see what people were using, though
I rather
 doubt clubs that have been using one particular channel or another are
going to
 switch anytime soon. >>
 I think what the channel would be handiest for is not clubs or rallys,
but for 
when you are driving and spot a rover(s) that you don't know. Then you
could turn
to the "un-official" channel and talk to the rover(s) instead of using
the un-
official wave. How about 7 since it is lower than 23 and 35 for those
old cb's. 
Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab
http://www.users.uswest.net/~jimfoo/

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From: "Wes harris" <wharris@midmon.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 21:42:39 -0500
Subject: RE: Powder Coated Goodness

BTW, WHat freq's are the transcievers? Anything that might interest a Rover?
8*)

                    ajr

Al,

I will go the powder coating route and let you know the results.
Incidentally, the outfit I slog for does low to high power VHF/UHF/SHF
analog and digital TV transmitters.  We could maybe rig up a mobile pirate
TV station.  Ahh, a 101 FC radio truck with a 30kW IOT!  We just need 480v
3PH to hook up to the beam supply...

Cheers,
Wes

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 21:38:56 EST
Subject: Re: Another Day........

In a message dated 3/19/99 5:42:45 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
conseitl@sprint.ca writes:

<< Maybe I'm going to start painting little car symbols on my front wing. >>

Nah..... Paint a "Rising Sun" on the wings ala Ben Smith.  Looks cool and is
very  politically incorrect.

Cheers,
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 21:48:27 EST
Subject: Probably not the carb...

Took the Weber off the truck, dissembled it entirely.  Cleaned the float bowl,
all jets, needle valve, intake pipe, stupid wire basket and big nut.
Diaphragms look good.

Reassembled it, tested it out for spray pattern and all looked good.  Replaced
the fuel filter for good measure.  Put the truck back together and tested her
out...

No difference whatsoever.  Took the carb apart again to ensure all was still
right in there, cleaned all the jets again, put it back together again, out
for a test drive...

No difference.

At this point I put the timing light on the truck.  10 BTDC, right where it
always sits.  Then I rev the engine.  The timing mark advances (towards 20
BTDC) smoothly but when I hold the revs up, the mark moves about a bit.  On
repeat reving it seems that there is increased movement around the higher rpm
timing mark location (oscillation).

Now I wonder if there's a dizzy problem.

Questions:
1.  Could a bad condenser do this sort of thing?
2.  Could the centripetal weights and mechanism be shot?
3.  Could the coil be going south?

Any other possibilities? The idle is a bit rough but well within what the
Brick has always done.

Nate 

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[spamkill:  no underscore input: %s]	 Message-ID: 
<000401be727d$fb554320$193fbfd1@electra_glide.mitre.org>

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From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 23:21:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Importing Land Rovers from England

My options for the 90 from Southampton were either by container (2.500GBP)
or  by what I was told was Break/Bulk (700GBP) That meant not in a
container but way down in the innards of the ship.
The vehicle didn't have to be empty - there was a box in the back with all
the theftable bits, like mirrors, seats, tools etc all sealed with those
clamped steel bands.
Fine until we reached the exit gate. 
The box had been re-used and had someone else's name on it. 
 It held us up for an hour before we could get out.
Small things can be a PIA
Allan

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From: Kirk Hillman <kdhillman@home.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 20:43:19 -0700
Subject: Heater delight?!?!

Dear List,
    After work this afternoon it was just beautiful and I felt like
tinkering with the Banshee a little.  I haven't driven her in about a
week so I manually primed the fuel lines (I just learned of this
feature, VERY handy).  I turned the ignition on and saw only 8-1/2
volts.  She has been starting pretty well lately, so I thought I would
try her anyway.  She fired right up, better than usual... on 8-1/2
volts!  After the motor had warmed up I got to see her exhibit the same
high idle that she has always had since I put the weber 32/36 on.  This
was time to tinker so I popped the bonnet and worked on the mixture and
vacuum advance a little.  To my delight I got her down to 750-800 rpm,
idling nicely.  I couldn't believe it!  I have tried everything yet
today something worked.  Now I had to go and try her out...
    I got to the area I usually play in and I couldn't believe how
nicely the Banshee just slowly chugged on.  There was also a definite
improvement in the hesitation off of idle. I could pretty much take my
foot off the gas and let her tick over at idle down this really rough
trail, through the snow and ice, deep ruts, etc.  How fast is the idle
on other weber 2 bbl aspirated petrols out there?  Mine was, as I said,
between 750  and 800, but in gear and under slight load she would drop
down to about 550-600.  Are others achieving this same idle?  Is this
where it should be?
    Anyway, after playing on all the obstacles I could find (there are
many, one of which was almost enough to roll me over forward on a short
descent) I noticed my idle had begun to pick up.  By the time I got back
home she was sitting around 1150-1200, and wouldn't run down either.
Any ideas?  I think it was John that suggested before that my
fluctuating idle might be caused by vacuum leak.  Could this be another
symptom?  Please help!!!  I fell in love with the Banshee all over again
when she started acting like the lady she is supposed to be.
    On a brighter note, there is absolutely no lack of heat any more in
the old girl.  I have been trying everything to get that Kodiak to give
me something warm.  Now I think I will have to switch to a cooler
thermostat because I have to almost shut the temperature control all the
way the make it bearable.  I never thought I would complain about too
much heat, but here it is.  Good thing none of my window and door seals
work, I would cook to death.  :-)

Cheers,
    Kirk
and "The Banshee Hillman"

NB- has anyone tried teflon pads between leaf stacks to improve flex in
the suspension?

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 17:32:27 -1000
Subject: Re: Probably not the carb...

>Any other possibilities? The idle is a bit rough but well within what the
>Brick has always done.

Did you ever check the pickup in the fuel tank?
Pete

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 20:11:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Capstan winch parts

From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 17:03:49 +0100
Subject: Re: Capstan winch parts

>> Ok, the biggest bit is finding a driveshaft that can take the RPM. an 
ordinary
> PTO shaft won't as they're rated for 540/1100 RPM, so cutting one of them down
> is not an option.

>I was under the impression that the winch should only be operated 
with the engine running stationary, am I at foult here?  

No, you are correct.  I still have the original operations manual, well, sheet 
really, 
that came with my Fairey Coast Guard Rescue capstan winch which I installed in 
1974.  It says that the winch is to be used with the engine at an rpm of no 
more than
1,000, and the vehicle must be stationary with the transmission in neutral.  Of 
course, 
the transmission selector has no functional relation to the winch operation, 
but what 
they're trying to say is, don't try to drive the vehicle while winching.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 20:18:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Capstan winch parts 

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 11:19:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Capstan winch parts - CHRIS WEINBECK - You OUT THERE? 

>I was under the impression that the winch should only be operated
>with the engine running stationary, am I at foult here?

>No, but the problem is that no matter if you're using it or not, that shaft is
going to be going around on the front of the engine. Hence, 3000RPM on the
engine on the highway still translates to the input shaft of the winch (though
disengaged) still going merrily around at 3000 RPM.

I don't know what kind of winch you're thinking of, but the Fairey capstan on 
my Land Rover is equipped with a dog clutch and a clutch lever.  Unless you 
are actually winching, the winch is supposed to be disengaged.  The drive 
shaft is attached to the winch, not the engine.  The only thing on the engine 
is the special dog clutch fitting that bolts to the front of the pulley.  The 
lever on the winch slides the driveshaft back and forth to engage the clutch 
fitting on the engine.  If the driveshaft is 
engaged with the engine, the winch will turn.  There is no way to engage 
the driveshaft and not have the winch turn (unless the shearpin is broken).  
Now, there may be capstan winches which have the driveshaft connected 
at all times to the engine with the clutch on the winch, but the Fairey isn't 
one of them.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 23:38:10 EST
Subject: Speaking of Nebraska, was PTO U-joints

Does anyone have the toll free number for the Surplus center? I need to order
a generator, around 10KW. 
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS
LROA #1095
SoLaRoS #23
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
(770)345-3516 

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From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 02:27:15 -0500
Subject: High idle [was:Heater delight?!?!]

At 08:43 PM 3/19/99 -0700, you wrote:

>descent) I noticed my idle had begun to pick up.  By the time I got back
>home she was sitting around 1150-1200, and wouldn't run down either.
>Any ideas?  I think it was John that suggested before that my

  Have you tried pulling the accelerator up with the back of your foot? My
accelerator linkage setup has a bit of play in it that allows the truck to
idle around 500-600 rpm if I pull the accelerator up with the back of my
foot. Otherwise, it's 1000-1100 rpm if I just let the spring assemblies do
the work...

Jeff Goldman
Boston, MA
http://www.gis.net/~roverboy

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From: Mikko Kalevi Lehmusto <mlehmust@hit.fi>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 10:21:12 +0200
Subject: RE: welding question/shield gases

Hello guys.

Huub, you need pure Ar in your TIG to protect the tungsten electrode. As
Ar is an inert gas, it doesn't react with the electrode even at such
temperatures.

Ar + CO2 -mix is probably the best all-round gas for MIG-welding steel.
Pure CO2 is cheaper, but gives much more splattering and requires really
careful adjustment of welding parameters. It's also much easier to weld
thin steel plates with Ar-CO2 -mix. That's probably why I have never seen
anything else being used for welding car panels. A mix gas also results in
stronger welds and less deformations in the workpiece.

Pure Ar isn't good for MIG -welding steel. It gives a very narrow
penetration and unreliable welds (I've tried). The Ar-CO2 -mix gives a
much more wider and deeper penetration, which is easier to control.

For MIG -welding aluminium, pure Ar is almost the only choice, mix gases
being completely unsuitable (the CO2 really messes things up with Al).

One advantage of a Ar-CO2 -mix is that it can be used to weld stainless
steel. It's not the best possible stuff for that (best would be Ar + about
2% oxygen), but it works quite fine. I welded the exhaust pipe for my
previous Landy that way, and the welds stayed rust-free as long as I had
the vehicle. (I of course used suitable SS welding wire)

Is Ar really cheaper than a mix gas in Holland? Here it's (luckily) just
the opposite.

greetings

Mikko Lehmusto
student, Mech. Engineering
FINLAND

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From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 00:40:13 -0800
Subject: Re: Capstan madness

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <rgdushin@blackcat.cat.syr.edu>
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 14:37:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Capstan madness

>1) My Fairey capstan has NO friggin' clutch.

Yes it does, but it's not a clutch in the way most people think of a
clutch.  The connection device used on the Fairey capstan winch is a very
crude type of clutch known as a "dog clutch."  It is a common device on
equipment where a solid connection has to be made but it also has to be
able to be disconnected.  Lots of farm equipment, factory machinery, and
even the old-style film editing machines (brand name Moviola) which were
used by everyone in the movie industry until the advent of flatbed editors
inthe 1970s, are fitted with dog clutches.

>YOU CAN
engage it with the engine running, but it is not reccommended..it's
a real easy way to bust shear pins.  BTDT too many times.  You're
best off engaging the winch with the motor off, but you can disengage
it any time just by retracting the shaft out of the dog.

Referring to the instructions that came with my new Fairey capstan winch
back in 1974, the proper way to use it is to put the transmission in
neutral, set the brake and block the front wheels (unless you're trying to
recover your own vehicle), start the engine and let it warm up until it
will idle smoothly at normal speed (about 600 rpm), take a few turns of the
line around the capstan, and then engage the dog clutch by pulling "rapidly
forward" on the clutch lever.  As  I mentioned in my other post, the
instructions are quite adamant about not exceeding 1,000 rpm when using the
winch.  My particular winch is Fairey's Coast Guard Rescue model, which has
a smooth surface drum to allow finer control when playing the line, and
also an opening fairlead, so you don't have to feed the entire length of
the line under the roller.  Otherwise, I believe it is identical to the
standard Fairey capstan, although someone once told me the Rescue model was
geared a little lower (slower rpm) than the standard winch.  I don't know
if this is true or not.

I have been operating my winch using Fairey's recommened manner for 25
years or so, and have never had a shearpin fail or even be cut by engaging
the winch with the engine at idle.  In fact, the only time I have ever
broken a shearpin is when I forgot to remove the 4,000lb test pin when
handcranking and replace it with the heavy steel pin which is included for
this purpose.  The 4,000 lb test pin will break instantly if you try to use
the winch to turn the engine.

Nor have I ever had to increase the rpm to keep the engine from stalling
under a load.  This includes the time a friend and I made $100 in 1977 in
the Yukon by pulling a fellow's Jeep up a very steep 25-foot high bluff out
of the lake it had ended up in (on its wheels) when it came off the trailer
hitch of his motor home at speed.  I carry a 300' length of 8,000 test
Polypropolene in the Land Rover for the winch (not the best line for a
capstan, by the way), and we needed all of it plus a couple of cables on
the far end to reach the Jeep, which we had to pull backwards through the
lake over several fallen trees to the bottom of the bluff, and then pull it
up the bluff.  We had no problems until the Jeep was just about at the top
of the bluff, at which point the winch was no longer pulling the Jeep up
the bluff, but was trying to pull it, in effect, straight back through the
top of the bluff toward my vehicle.  At that point, the winch continued to
pull just fine, and while the engine lugged down a bit, it continued to run
smoothly.  But my Land Rover, even with the parking brake on, 4wd engaged,
and the hubs locked in, began to slide forward toward the Jeep.
Fortunately, a passing motorist stopped with his full-size pickup, and we
hooked him onto the Jeep, too.  With the pickup pulling and my winch
pulling, we got the Jeep up over the edge.

The $100 the Jeep owner paid us enabled us to take the ferry down the
Inside Passage instead of driving all the way back down the Alaska Highway,
which is an interesting trip the first time you make it and is, in my
opinion, incredibly boring from then on.  And back then it was still dirt.
Today I imagine it would put me to sleep as most or all of it's paved now.
So our extra money let us go down the Cassiar Highway (MUCH more
interesting than the Alaska Highway) to Prince Rupert and catch the ferry.
It was on that ferry, going through the incredible upper channels of the
Inside Passage, that I made up my mind to leave Hawaii and move to the
Pacific Northwest.

But I digress... There is certainly nothing wrong with engaging the winch
first and then starting the engine, although the instructions I have don't
mention this as an option.  The gearing is such that it wouldn't put enough
of an additional strain on the starter to worry about.  But there have been
many times when I've wanted to stop the pull, rearrange the line and snatch
blocks, and then start the pull again.  I've simply disengaged and engaged
the winch as needed, leaving the engine at idle the whole time.  If you set
the engine rpm to 1,000 or higher (although higher is expressly warned
against in the instruction sheet I have), I can certainly see how the
sudden shock of engaging the dog clutch could damage or break a shearpin.
But at 600 rpm, the clutch engages with barely a thunk, as long as you pull
the lever "rapidly forward" :-)

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

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From: RBurtton@aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 04:26:54 EST
Subject: Re: Chicken Khorma (M-2, M-3 Stuart, M-3 Lee/Grant)

I

<< Subj:	 Re: Re: Chicken Khorma (M-2 Stuart)
 Date:	99-03-19 00:08:12 EST
From:	phope@hawaii.rr.com (Peter Hope)
  
 
 >To the best of my knowledge, the M-2 never saw combat duty, while the
 >M-3 and later the M-5 were used extensively in both the European and
 >Pacific theatres.

Pete Hope wrote: 
<< I thought we sold a bunch of M-2's to the Russians, Brits, and Chinese?  Or
 do you mean that the US never used them in combat?
 I swear I have a picture somewere of an M-2 in North Africa.  It's been a
 bit since I was up on the subject however.
 >>
Pete,

It was the M-3 Stuart that we sold them and used in North Africa.  The M-2 was
obsolete by that time and was used (to the best of my knowledge) as only a
training vehicle here in the states.   I cannot say conclusively that no M-2
tanks made it to North Africa, but it was highly unlikely

The M-2 is distinguished by having twin 50 caliber machineguns and no main gun
(cannon) in the turret.  It, also, had up to 3 30 caliber machinguns in the
hull.  The M-3 light tank was developed from the chassis of the M-2 adding a
37mm main gun to replace the twin 50 caliber machineguns in the turret.

There is a lot of misunderstanding as there were two different M-3 tanks:  
1. The M-3 Light Tank (Stuart), armed with a 37mm and 3 30-cal. machine guns.
2. The M-3 Meduim Tank (Lee/Grant) armed with a 75mm gun mounted on the right
side of the hull and a 37mm gun in a turret.

Both the M-3 light and medium tanks were exported to our allies.  The light
M-3 was replaced with the M-5 (Stuart) and the medium M-3 (Lee/Grant) was
replaced with the M-4 (Sherman).

(LR content) At the time the Brits were using M-3 light and medium tanks in
North Africa, the SAS, which use the Pink Panther versions of the Land Rover,
was started by Major David Sterling and used MB J**ps very effectively against
the Jerrys.

Cheers,
Ray Burton

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 15:29:04 +1000
Subject: Capstan winch parts - U-joints:

Alan Richer wrote:
>What I meant was finding small U-joints complete.

Have you checked Toyota spare parts?  I had a Toyota FJ55 with a Toyota PTO
winch (not aftermarket).  It had small UJs in the drive from the PTO to the
winch.  I can go and measure them - they are now fitted to a neighbours
FJ40.

Ron

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From: Charles Irvin <cirvin1258@juno.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 02:48:49 -0800
Subject: Re: Must Sell Series 3 109 Pickup CHASSIS

On Fri, 19 Mar 1999 13:52:36 PST "Jeremy Brooks"
<jbrookslegacy@hotmail.com> writes:
>Hi All,
>I am trying to make room for my Series 1 project and must clear out a 
>Series 3 frame, military spec suitable for a 109 pick up. It is truly 
>rust free, but has a tiny crack in the passenger side front dumb iron 
>and it is RHD i.e. for British roads.
>I am motivated to sell, and am asking $1000.00 US o.b.o.. It is 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>located 
>near Toronto, Ontario (about 100 miles from Buffalo NY)

...It figures...I buy the pieces, borrow the mig welder, have absolutely
NO money, and now the NATO chassis that I've been looking for pops up!

Charles

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From: Charles Irvin <cirvin1258@juno.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 02:45:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Another Day........

On Fri, 19 Mar 1999 21:38:56 EST GElam30092@aol.com writes:
>Nah..... Paint a "Rising Sun" on the wings ala Ben Smith.  Looks cool 
>and is
>very  politically incorrect.

...What a neat idea! My 109 gets both a rising sun, and a stars and bars.
(took out a Toyota T-100 rear bumper 3 years ago, and a Dodge Caravan
tailgate in December - though I suffered the most damage in this one...)

Charles

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From: "Con P. Seitl" <conseitl@sprint.ca>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 07:50:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Another Day........

GElam30092@aol.com wrote:

> Nah..... Paint a "Rising Sun" on the wings ala Ben Smith.  Looks cool and is
> very  politically incorrect.
>.
I like politically incorrect.........its' time real people started
rebelling! The "Rising Sun" it'll be!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1991 RR "hers"

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