The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 19:11:49 +1000
Subject: Another Day........

Con Seitl  wrote:

Hey, I thought all kill symbols went on the fuselage, not the wing.

Or have I missed sumpin' (again).

Oh, BTW Con...the only good cat is a dead cat.

Ron

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From: Matthew Wilson <bogatyr@pipeline.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:30:24 -0500
Subject: Relocation successful!

We finally moved Orlando (1970 IIA) from Albany to Averill Park this
weekend.  I have a friend who works at U-Haul who got a truck and flatbed
for the day.  The really fun part was hand winching her up onto the
flatbed.  The frame is such swiss cheese up front that we almost ended up
with tow rings in our laps!  We were finally able to tow her up by the
axles.  In any case, now that she is in a garage, I began the take-down
process.  It is pretty amazing how quickly the doors and hood came off of a
30 year old vehicle that was sitting in a field for a bunch of years.  By
next weekend, I would like to have the wings and the top off.  Stay tuned...

Matthew Wilson
1970 IIA 88" Orlando

Everything needed something,
Some things needed everything,
Nothing needed nothing.
Peter Egan.

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From: Marc Rengers <mr@b4m.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 15:00:59 +0100
Subject: Re: bleeding diesel

>yeah follow the fuel system...but in reverse orde

Not reverse, from the filters to the injectors, the air must go with the 
fuelstream....

Marc Rengers                                                LRCH-member
Westeremden, Holland
mr@b4m.com (marc@fileserver.minerva.fk.hanze.nl)
Systemsmanager Academie Minerva Groningen

0596-551334 (home)
050-3666761 (work)
06-51185046 (GSM)

http://www.minerva.fk.hanze.nl/landrover/index.html

      +------_                                --_         
      |____|__\___                    ________|__\___     
      | _  |   |_ |}                  |  _    |   |_ |}   
      "(_)"""""(_)"                   ""(_)"""""""(_)"
 1978 SIII 88" 2.25 diesel       1968  109"  SIIa 2.25 petrol
     reg. 47-DB-13                     reg. unknown    
      marine blue                 green (15 layers of paint)
    The running one                  The not running one

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From: "Lee Dunkelberg" <Lee_Dunkelberg@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:09:44 -0600
Subject: Catty RO-RO

For felines -  roll on , reverse over.

Cheers!
Lee Dunkelberg

Dunkelberg Productions
210 Glentower Drive  San Antonio, Texas  78213-1913
Voice/Fax - (210) 344-3394   Mobile - (210)  275-8238  
Pager - (210) 821-2224

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:22:45 +0000
Subject: Re: bleeding diesel

Not reverse, from the filters to the injectors, the air must go with the
>fuelstream....
Top to bottom as I see it.The filter is the highest point,then the
top bleeder on the dist pimp then the bottom.etc.

Mike Rooth

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From: "Bishop, Alan" <A.Bishop@worc.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:50:32 +0000
Subject: Re: canvas truck cab

Hi all,

Can anyone tell me if canvas truck tops are commonly available. I 
have hard top and full tilt at the moment but go past a S111 every 
morning with such a top. It seems it would be so much quicker to 
remove and replace as the british weather changes from minute to 
minute.

How does / would this top fit at the back? Is there a strip that 
fits on the bulkhead behind the seats like the one used on the 
windscreen top edge? 

Anyone have such a top they want to sell?!!

Thanks in advance
Alan

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From: linux@ocelot.demon.co.uk (Tim Thorpe)
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 99 17:07:47 GMT
Subject: Re: Valve guides.

Bill and Alan on reaming guides:

   Bill adds:

   It is not necessary to ream the valve guides for the LR engines.

   Bill - hate to argue on this one - but I've personally had an exhaust valve 
hang
   because of an un-reamed guide. Wasn't like I was using junk either - there 
were
   TRW, obtained in the UK.

   I would at a minimum gauge them with a drill rod and ream the ones that were
   tight. Maybe the head on my car was a bit wierd, but it's made me cautious...
   -ajr

I reamed mine (and recut the valve seats) after a warning just like
Alans from someone with firsthand experience of a stuck valve after guide
replacement. I noticed that none of the guides seemed tight before reaming;
I suppose they are manufactured with sufficient clearance. I reamed them
anyway to ensure they were still round after the bashing required to insert
them, and this removed a little meat from one of them. Perhaps I treated them
too roughly.

I seem to remember (just beginning to wonder whether I imagined it) mic'ing
the stem of a worn exaust valve and finding it was over spec not under. If
so, true paranoids would not even be content with using a drill as a gauge,
you need to measure the clearance in place.

Tim.

Tim Thorpe                              Tel: +44 1223 240366 
tim@ocelot.demon.co.uk                  Fax: +44 1223 414402

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From: Clinton Coates <ccoates@GOLDER.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:37:00 -0800
Subject: bleeding diesels

     When I bought my 300D benz, I was a bit concerned about doing the 
     whole diesel dance with bleeding etc.  It turns out that there is a 
     little push pump on the side of the injector pump.  To bleed the 
     entire system, one just pushes this pump up and down until fuel 
     dribbles out....and then start the car.  This is only one of the 
     reasons I want to try and adapt a similar engine to my truck.
     
     Other really cool things about the engine.  Wear items like the 
     crankshaft pulley have distance pieces on them (like on the axle stub 
     shafts).  When it starts to leak, it is a simple job to pull the 
     pulley, mash up the distance piece, drift on a new one and install a 
     new seal.
     
     They don't leak either.  At all.
     
     Clinton

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From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 19:12:11 +0100
Subject: RE: welding question/shield gases

> Is Ar really cheaper than a mix gas in Holland? Here it's (luckily) just
> the opposite.

Yep 
Regards,

Huub Pennings
(private e-mail to jpennings@worldonline.nl

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 14:49:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Sand driving and Moab fun

Try the Woodhead military shocks. No fancy-schmancy nitrogen or yellow 
boots, just longer travel and plenty of smoosh. Not stiff like the 
Ranchos.
Airing down is always a good idea, and a 12 dollar bicycle pump may take 
some time, but will always work getting the donuts filled. Would probably 
have saved you some time and effort on those sand stucks.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator...Softimage/Hal
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon, with parabolics
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: "scott wilson" <swilson@spacelab.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 15:36:45 -0500
Subject: Will be in Southern Utah this summer...

Well, I'll be there in about August, but I'm planning the trip now.
I won't be driving out there from NYC, so I'll end up renting a vehicle.
There are a few places that rent j**ps, and that's probably what I'll 
end up renting... no crazy off roading, but a tad bit possible then... 
 
Just wondering if there are any other suggestions of what I could rent
while out there... any names of places? I'll be flying into salt lake
city for a while and driving down for a few days... 

THanks for any help... and hello to Frank and Keith and the rest of the 
list... I've been lurking as work's killing me and haven't had time to
work on the rover since its last cross-country journey... 
later...

Scott Wilson

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:41:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Sand driving and Moab fun

<<Try the Woodhead military shocks. No fancy-schmancy nitrogen or yellow
boots, just longer travel and plenty of smoosh. Not stiff like the
Ranchos.>>

Thanks Bill. Anyone know the specs on these shocks? Something like the
Static Length/Max Extended/Max Compressed like in the 'merkin parts books.
Don't ever buy Ranchos, honest. At least they hold together though. I've
heard nasty things about the Procomps breaking at the weld?

<<Airing down is always a good idea, and a 12 dollar bicycle pump may take
some time, but will always work getting the donuts filled. Would probably
have saved you some time and effort on those sand stucks.>>

I've inflated many a leaky tire with ye olde cheap hand pump. Unfortunately
one by one, as cheap things are prone to do, they crapped out. The last one
lasted about a week and a half. I never replaced it. If I ever actually get
around to installing a cig-lighter somewhere, do those cheap little 12v
compressers do any good?

I thought in the back of my mind if I really got stuck I would air down
until I could get out and just drive very carefully over the rocks (I do
have tubes in my radials). Thanks again!

 *************************************
* joseph and sidney		      *
* missoula, mt			      *
* curator of the "Series Shed"        *
* http://jbroach.interspeed.net/rover *
 *************************************

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From: Davide8866@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 15:43:19 EST
Subject: bleeding...oops your right

 Bleeding diesel>yeah follow the fuel system...but in reverse orde
Not reverse, from the filters to the injectors, the air must go with the 
fuelstream....
Marc Rengers                                                LRCH-member
Westeremden, Holland

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From: Benjamin Smith <bens@psasolar.colltech.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 15:04:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Another Day...

Con Seitl wrote:

>     Land Rover...1     Honda.....0
> Maybe I'm going to start painting little car symbols on my front wing.

	Two years ago my SIII tangled with a Honda.  The Honda was totaled.
(it was ripped nose to tail by my rear bumper).  Dora drove away from the
accident.  5 minutes with a sledgehammer and a little welding was all the
repair that I needed.

	To give Dora the credit, I painted a small (1.5" by 2") "Rising Sun"
Japanese kill flag on the driver's door.  

Ben

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From: "Gregory Petrolati" <greenman62@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 13:15:38 PST
Subject: 

Ahoy ye scurvy lot! `Time ta sign on with merriest band o' 
land-locked barbarous cutthroats as ever ta sail th' briney, 
er... plaines!

The Central Illinois Triumph Owners Association an' The Prairie Octagon 
MG Club are goin' a-rovin' at the Champagne British Car Festival in 
Urbana-Champaign, Illinois, Friday May 28th-Sunday May 30th, 1999. 

This bein' our eighth festival we'm be callin' it "Pieces of Eight", an 
we be honorin' the MGBV8, an' all other bold British marques what has an 
8 cylinder mixer under th' bonnet. Grab yer cutlass and yer wrench an' 
jine us fer a great weekend o' buccaneerin' high jinks, and British 
automotive lunacy.  Hany man Jack... er Jill o' ye what stays ashore'll 
think es' found THE BLACK SPOT, been marooned, keel hauled or worse! 

There'll be murther most foul... twice. THE BLACK SPOT will fall ta some 
hapless toad on Friday night then agen' on Saturday night.
Ye'll be charged wi' findin' the culprit. The crew be limited to 100  
participants, an ye'll be after hav'n exclusive registration until May 
1, 1999. Yer cost'll be $30. Per person an' that'll include yer 
victuals. We'm also be rolickin' at our pre-iginition party on Friday 
night in Black Jack Davey's Hell Hole (Jumers' Illini Tap pub)

Saturday the Fillibuster's test o' blind navigation and pyratical talent 
(the funkhana) will be cap'nd by that dastardly scum hisself, Deadeye 
Pew. Fer ye' wi'out ship, but hot fer adventure, there be treasure t' be 
found (the walking rally).  For those wi' an itch ta roam there'll be 
the daylight cruize. Then, ye can settle dhan in th' great hall fer High 
Tea an' eddi-fy-cation belike ye was fine civilized ladies an'  
gennimen... (WHICH YE AIN'T)! Then "batten down the hatch es! Run out 
the guns! Clear for action!" Ye can board Jumer's double decker "tall 
ship" bus and go a pub crawlin'. 

Sunday, them's what'r just draggin' their sorry carcasses back to their 
den or them's what peached it early an are up can catch the tide an' 
sail with the Dawn Patrol Breakfast Run. Then it's back ta port fer 
careenin' scrubbin' dahn the decks and the Pyrates' choice car show. 
Voting starts at noon and prizes be awarded at 3 bells. 

Jumers' Castle Lodge in Urbana Illinois be th' lattitude again, me jolly 
shipmates. We ain't just got a block o' rooms... we'll be takin' over 
the place!  They'll be after givin' us a special rate of $54. o'night 
Fer single an' doubles (suites available from $79.- $125.). Ta make sure 
there's berth for ye an' yer mates y' better be aloft ta' th' crow's 
nest an' be signalin' Jumers' a soon as ye clear the headlands. Call 
(217) 384-8800, refer to th' Confirmation number #110154, ta' sign on. 
If Jumers' be full, alternate berthin' can be had at The Park Inn, $55.+ 
tax. Call (800) 437-PARK confirmation #20093 (CBCF) `er check our web 
site: 

(www.prairienet.org/cbcf/main.html) 

So, me fine camaradoes what'r ye doin' sittin' an yer 
fundiment? Git yer pyrate togs, grab yer sea bag, dust off yer parrot 
an' set sail for The Champagne
 
British Car Festival... Arrrrrr! 

 If ye'll want a copy of our brochure send me yer snail mail address
an I'll be send'n it right along

  Greg Petrolati

Greg Petrolati Champaign, Illinois
1962 TR4 (CT4852L)

That's not a leak... My car's just marking its territory...

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From: "Stude, Herman L." <HermanS@krts.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 15:20:57 -0600
Subject: Batteries and switches

Hello All;

The Prince of Darkness has arrived!

I have two questions:
First My SIII 88 headlight switch (who knows how old it was) started
leaving the parking/running lights on even when the switch was in the
off position.  I could flicker them off and on by wiggling the switch
left to right when it was in the off position buy after a while they
stayed on permamently.  I ordered a new one from RN, replaced it. And it
did the same thing right out of the box.  Hooked up the milti
meter/continuity tester and it verified that both switches were doing
the same thing, passing the juice to the running lights regardless of
the on/off position of the switch.  Is this a fluke?  Should I try a
third switch?  P.S. Have owned this LR for 7 yrs switch and the lights
worked everytime no problems.

Second:
I've got a five year old Interstate battery that this switch just
drained, being charged as we speak.  If this guy has given up the ghost
what do I replace it with?

Thanks for your help

Herman

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From: Mikko Kalevi Lehmusto <mlehmust@hit.fi>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 23:27:18 +0200
Subject: Valve guides

At least I had to ream my guides (2.25 diesel) when I replaced them last
week. The bore of the guides was just right before fitting, but the guides
were a damn tight fit in the head. As a result the bore got pressed just a
little too tight. Luckily a friend of mine found suitable reamers at his
workplace.

It might have some effect, that I didn't use a press, as I didn't expect
them to be _so_ tight. I turned suitable punches from brass and warmed the
head to appr. 80C. I still had to whack 'em really hard. However, the
guides were tight almost all the way, not only at the top end.

Mikko Lehmusto
student, Mech. Engineering
FINLAND

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 99 14:39:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Sand driving and Moab fun

<<Try the Woodhead military shocks. No fancy-schmancy nitrogen or 
yellow>boots, just longer travel and plenty of smoosh. Not stiff like 
the>Ranchos.>>

<Thanks Bill. Anyone know the specs on these shocks?>

I have a set on The Green Rover (overweight 109 with 1 ton springs on 
extended shackles).  I'm happy with them.  They are basically the factory 
stock shocks.

BTW, I have taken that trail in Arches both ways with about 20 pounds 
pressure on 265/75/16 BF Goodrich Mud Terrains and have had no problems 
making it.  It is a short drive to MOAB to air up.

Take care

TeriAnn Wakeman                              Coming soon
Santa Cruz, California                    New hub web site for
twakeman@cruzers.com             everything Rover and expedition equipment
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    Links-cars for sale-special equip.
                                     equip. reviews-Books-expeditions
                                             & much more!!

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From: john taylor <jht@easynet.ca>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 03:47:11 -0500
Subject: Re:Weird Knocking Noises

In a moment of weakness I spent 10-15 mins trying to get out of a hole which
had water up to my floor. When I finally decided to get pulled out, my
engine, which had never sounded better prior to entering the water, had a
knock under load. This turned out to be the rear main which was ruined along
with the crank. 
Hope this is not your problem.
Yours John Taylor
IIa v6 bastard

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 17:28:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Will be in Southern Utah this summer...

Was just there (maybe you've seen the posting) with Sid. My trip wasn't an
off-road expedition either, though I did manage to have some fun.

Slickrock 4x4 in Moab seems to have the best reputation in the area. The
guy's a mechanic who fixes up older CJ's to rent. The other places I saw
rent brand new Wranglers and Cherokees with street tires.

Try the 4-wheel drive trail to Tower Arch in Arches National Park. Good fun
without much chance of damage. It's a beautiful area but mighty hot in
August! Have fun and stay cool...

 *************************************
* joseph and sidney		      *
* missoula, mt			      *
* curator of the "Series Shed"        *
* http://jbroach.interspeed.net/rover *
 *************************************

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 20:02:59 -0500
Subject: Valves

Alan writes :- Bill - hate to argue on this one - but I've personally had an
exhaust valve hang
because of an un-reamed guide. Wasn't like I was using junk either - there were
TRW, obtained in the UK.  I would at a minimum gauge them with a drill rod
and ream the ones that were tight. Maybe the head on my car was a bit wierd,
but it's made me cautious...

 I certainly agree on the need to be cautious, and a check of clearances
should be standard practise. I too have found the odd tight valve, usually
attributable to my big hammer fitting technique, only recently have I made
myself a small press. Then again I am a bit cheap and replace the guides,
since I have found that typically most wear is in the guide and  have often
re used the valves so a bit of extra clearance is achieved.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 17:54:05 -0700
Subject: battery charging

This isn't exactly a rover question since it has to do with my jet ski,
but I will be towing it with my rover. The key was left on, not by me, 
and the battery was totally dead. I tried charging it, but it didn't
hold much of a charge. Since I had nothing to lose, I hooked the charger
up backwards, and lots of current flowed. I left it like that for a few
minutes, and then tried charging it normally, and it still wouldn't
charge. I decided to let it charge for a while backwards to see what
happened. Well, it charged, althouth the polarity is now reversed. In
the long run will this hurt the battery? Will it keep it's ablilty to
hold it's charge? If any one knows, please enlighten me. If I need to
buy a new battery, I will. But if I don't have to then I will keep it
as is.
-- 
Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab
http://www.users.uswest.net/~jimfoo/

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From: Russ Wilson <gambrinus66@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 17:17:20 -0800
Subject: Re: battery charging

 I hooked the charger
>up backwards, and lots of current flowed.  it charged, althouth the
>polarity is now reversed.
>Jim Hall
Buy a mirror because your jet-ski is now going to run in reverse.   Ha.
drop me a note off-line.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
				Dennis Miller

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From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 17:05:06 -0800
Subject: Too much oil

From: Kirk Hillman <kdhillman@home.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 17:19:09 -0700
Subject: Molson Special Dry/Too much oil

>What would a 2.25 L petrol exhibit in terms of symptoms of being
over-filled with oil?  What kind of damage, if any, would that cause to
the motor?

According to my BMW mechanic friend, overfilling the oil results in
frothing: the oil gets beat around so much it gets a lot of air in it.
What this means is that the moving parts don't get as much oil on them as
they should because of all the air mixed in.  The end result is prematurely
worn bearings and bushings.  According to him, too much oil is every bit as
detrimental to the life of an engine as too little oil.  He maintains the
two best things you can do (outside of your driving habits) to prolong the
life of an engine is change the oil and filter regularly or whenever the
oil starts looking dirty and always keep the engine filled to the high
market but NEVER any higher.  This is all advice from an experienced
mechanic: I cannot vouch for its validity because I've never run an engine
with too much oil in it so cannot tell you firsthand what the consequences
are.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

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From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 17:25:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Weird knocking noise !!??

From: Andy <andyb@NOSPAMlrover.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 17:25:31 +0000
Subject: Weird knocking noise !!??

>Anyhow on the way home there came a knocking sound. It only appears at
>certain engine
speeds and gets louder when the engine is under load. There is no
shaking in the steering and there is no accompanying vibration. ...When I
got home, I reved the engine a few times to see if it happened
out of gear but I could hear nothing.
So, finally, here is the question(s). If it is pinking, why doesn't do
it when I rev the engine in the driveway ? Can pinking just suddenly
start to happen ?

Pinking, knocking, pinging; what it is is pre-ignition of the fuel-air
mixture in the cylinders.  The phenomenon of having knocking under load but
not under no-load at the same rpm is very common.  I've had it in Ford
pickups, my Series III and my BMW.  One test worth doing is to put the
engine under load at whatever rpm the knocking occurs.  Then back off just
slightly on the accelerator.  Does the sound go away?  If it does, you've
got pinking, pinging, knocking, pre-ignition, or whatever you want to call
it.

As to cures, there are several that can be attempted.  You can: 1. Get a
new engine.  2. Try a higher octane fuel. 3. Retard the timing a bit. 4.
Change the valve timing of the engine (not advisable unless you really know
what you're doing or know a mechanic who does).  5.  Replace or rebuild the
distributor, inlcluding everything associated with the vacuum
advance/retard system.  6.  A bunch of other things I don't know about but
other people probably do.

As to "can it just start to happen?" I guess the answer would be yes.
Engines start wearing out the moment you turn the key on a brand new one.
Sooner or later, something's going to slip, break, or wear down the point
where something starts to happen that wasn't happening before.  It may be
something as simple as your distributor has slipped or the points slipped
which as messed up the ignition timing.  Maybe your vacuum advance/retard
system has suddenly started working too well or not well enough.  Or maybe
your timing chain has stretched to the point where the valve timing is no
longer right for your ignition timing.  Or the people who distill the fuel
in your part of the world just bought brand new Porsches and need to up the
profits a bit, so the octane rating of their petrol isn't exactly what it
says it is on the pump.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

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From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 16:57:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Ro-Ro

From: Bob & Sue Bernard <bobnsueb@saber.net>
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 07:07:32 -0800
Subject: Ro-Ro

>Ok,
Would someone please explain Ro-Ro?

Someone's probably already answered you by now, but Ro-Ro stands for Roll
On-Roll Off, and it refers to cargo ships on which the cargo is driven on
and off the ship, as opposed to loading and stacking containers.  Much of
the cargo on a Ro-Ro is trailers with containers on them, but they are also
used to ship large items that won't fit in a container but can be put on a
trailer of some sort.  Yachts, big tractors, mining equipment, giant ore
trucks, etc. are the sorts of things that are shipped on a Ro-Ro ship in
addition to the trailer/container rigs.  Individuals can also ship cars on
a Ro-Ro ship.  I shipped my Land Rover to California and back on a Matson
Lines Ro-Ro in 1977 when I took a six week trip into the Yukon, and I
shipped it to California again on the same ship in 1979 when I left Hawaii
for good and moved to Seattle.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

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[spamkill:  hostnames start w/letter input: %s]	 Received: from 
nathan.enteract.com (dscheidt@207.229.143.6)
From: David Scheidt <dscheidt@enteract.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 20:06:15 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Too much oil

On Mon, 22 Mar 1999, C. Marin Faure wrote:

:According to my BMW mechanic friend, overfilling the oil results in
:frothing: the oil gets beat around so much it gets a lot of air in it.

What happens with too much oil depends very much on the engine and the oil
pan.  I would think that LR 2.25 oil ban has enough baffles in it so that 
it wouldn't cause problems.  Mr. Sinclair says we won't volunteer, though.

:life of an engine is change the oil and filter regularly or whenever the
:oil starts looking dirty and always keep the engine filled to the high

This would require more or less weekly oil changes in mr sinclair's engine.

David/mr sinclari

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 21:44:14 EST
Subject: Eratic running, was eratic acceleration

Well, I think I've got this narrowed down to something in the distributor.  I
was standing there letting it idle along at 780 rpm, checking the advance and
slightly moving the dizzy and rechecking--about 10 minutes after letting the
truck get to operating temperature.

I got to a point I thought was good and tightened down the pinchbolt.  Then I
hooked up the vaccuum line and the engine almost died.  I pulled off the line
at the rpms came up but not back to 780, only 550-600 and it was difficult to
keep the truck running--idling rough.  No amount of movement of the dizzy
corrected this.

My questions are:
1.  Is this a typical death of a condensor?  
or
2.  Is this a symptom of weak springs and weight mechanism in the dizzy?

My plan is to replace the condensor and points once they get here, but I
suspect that this could also be related to weak springs in the distributor

Nate

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 22:00:10 -0800
Subject: Knocking sound

Andy <andyb@NOSPAMlrover.demon.co.uk> wrote:

>My beloved IIA has developed a knocking sound, that seems to be coming
>from the front.

>Sorry for the long post, but does anyone have any (useful;-)
>suggestions.

Yeah, I think I know what it is exactly...it's the timing chain tensioner,
and it's getting ready to come adrift.  You will *not* like it if that
happens.  Fix it pronto.  No biggie now, but it could really bugger up the
works.  Cheers

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 22:29:15 EST
Subject: SII to SIII hinge conversion

Howdy folks,
thinking about getting rid of those silly, wobbly SII hinges and putting some
not-as-cool-but-hey-your-door-shuts SIII hinges on in their stead.

Anything screwy about doing this--do the holes line up?  Will those threaded
plates in the doorposts (that would fall down every time I remove the hinges
if I didn't take out one bolt, stick a twig in the hole and then take out the
other bolt) match up w/ the screw thread on the SIII hinges?

Inquiring minds want to know.

Bill Rice
64SIIa109SW (what long vehicle titles we have--maybe the longest word-free
vehicle titles around, what?)

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[spamkill:  hostnames start w/letter input: %s]	 Received: from 
nathan.enteract.com (dscheidt@207.229.143.6)
From: David Scheidt <dscheidt@enteract.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 21:38:33 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Sand driving and Moab fun

On Mon, 22 Mar 1999, Adams, Bill, notorious cheapskate, wrote:

:Airing down is always a good idea, and a 12 dollar bicycle pump may take 
:some time, but will always work getting the donuts filled. Would probably 
:have saved you some time and effort on those sand stucks.

12 bucks?  I'm disappointed in you, Bill.  I only made seven dollars for mine,
and it came wityh a built-in, broken, tire-pressure gauge.  From that awful
rip-off joint Sears, Roebuck.

David/mr sinclair, whose wheels leak

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 04:46:12 +0100
Subject: Re: battery charging

If charging a totally dead battery reverses its polarity, then charge it
with reverse polarity, then run it dead again and see if you can do the
same trick in reverse.

Usual disclaimer, don't do this without the help of an adult, and never
leave suspect batteries on charge unattended....

:-)

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
      Visit the "Native Experience" website at 
          http://www.channel6.dk/native
Contact the "Native Experience" film unit in Alaska
          telephone   +1 (907) 230 0359
          e-mail      channel6@alaska.net
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

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From: "Jeremy Brooks" <jbrookslegacy@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 20:00:57 PST
Subject: Surplus Land Rover Parts for Sale (2nd Call)

I am about to undertake yet another project and must make room. As 
mentioned 2 days ago, I have a NATO 109" pick up chassis for sale. It 
has no rust, but it is RHD and has a tiny crack in the passenger side 
spring hanger. Asking $1000 US/ $1500 CDN

I also have the following items I want to move out. Prices on these are 
up to you.

 one 1967 2A front axle, with good swivels and Warn hubs
 one limestone green deluxe bonnet, very clean
 five 16" rims
 one old & grubby but useable Kodiak heater
 Three  Pick up cabs. All have dents in the roof, but all glass is      
intact.
 pair of rear roof panels with sliding glass (for 88" models)
 One very clean Series 3 tub (limestone)
 One 2A windscreen
 One rear door spare tire carrier
 Complete interior  trim panels in rhino hyde from a SWB 2A
 One wiper motor 1967 2A
 Complete 2A instrument panel, with all dials & switches, very clean

I also have in Kleinburg.Ontario  a 1962 SWB, with a very straight body, 
all drive train, but a rotten chassis. Proper ownership papers are 
available. Asking $500.00 CDN obo.

Sincerely, 

Jeremy

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 20:16:41 -1000
Subject: Re: Surplus Land Rover Parts for Sale (2nd Call)

> Three  Pick up cabs. All have dents in the roof, but all glass is
>intact.
ohohoh...
Can these be disassembled like the full size roof so that they can be flat
packed for shipping?
Anyideas on the weight of one of them?
Pete

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[spamkill: unrecognized yahoo address input: %s]	 Return-Path: 
<paru2946@yahoo.com>
[spamkill: 208\.255\.67\. input: %s]	 Received: from ponder.server 
(1Cust249.tnt24.sfo3.da.uu.net [208.255.67.249])

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From: "Bishop, Alan" <A.Bishop@WORC.AC.UK>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 09:00:31 +0000
Subject: Canvas truck top?

Hi all, I got no answer yesterday so I thought I would try again - 
someone must know the answer to this?!

Can anyone tell me if canvas truck tops are commonly available. I 
have hard top and full tilt at the moment but go past a S111 every 
morning with such a top. It seems it would be so much quicker to 
remove and replace as the british weather changes from minute to 
minute, it's also a lot less canvas to stow in the back when 
removed.

How does / would this top fit at the back? Is there a strip that 
fits on the bulkhead behind the seats like the one used on the 
windscreen top edge? 

Anyone have such a top they want to sell?!!

Thanks in advance
Alan

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From: Charles Irvin <cirvin1258@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 02:20:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Surplus Land Rover Parts for Sale (2nd Call)

Jeremy,

If you're willing to dismantle a bit, I could use the rain/soft top
channels off one of those truck cabs (if they have any), and I can
probably be talked into the Kodiak...unless I get off my butt and call
about a gas-fired heater.

Charles

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 12:13:17 +0200
Subject: Re: Continued eratic acceleration, ideas?

Re: dicky accelerator pump

> The truck responds to the throttle fine.
> Under load, the truck has erratic acceleration, similar to a 
> clogged fuel filter

Doesn't sound like the accel. pump?  Worth a try, tho'.

Have you actually replaced the cartridge in the fuel filter?  I've seen 
a case where a newish, clean-looking filter was plugged...

I'm running out of ideas here!

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

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From: Ian Stuart <ian.stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 10:38:19 +0000
Subject: Re: Canvas truck top?

"Bishop, Alan" wrote:
> Hi all, I got no answer yesterday so I thought I would try again -
> someone must know the answer to this?!
> Can anyone tell me if canvas truck tops are commonly available. I
> have hard top and full tilt at the moment but go past a S111 every
> morning with such a top. It seems it would be so much quicker to
> remove and replace as the british weather changes from minute to
> minute, it's also a lot less canvas to stow in the back when
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> minute, it's also a lot less canvas to stow in the back when
> removed.
It's a special job (though not too expensive...)

> How does / would this top fit at the back? Is there a strip that
> fits on the bulkhead behind the seats like the one used on the
> windscreen top edge?
The ones I've seen have been on specials, so tie-downs have been put in
specially.

-- 
           --==**==--
Ian Stuart - University computing services.
Opinions are funny things:
     Mine are mine and mine alone

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From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 11:29:06 +0000
Subject: Re: SII to SIII hinge conversion

Jarvis64@aol.com wrote:

> Howdy folks,
> thinking about getting rid of those silly, wobbly SII hinges and putting some
> not-as-cool-but-hey-your-door-shuts SIII hinges on in their stead.

The SIII hinges can be as much trouble as the SII's, I bought new SIII hinges 
and
the amount of vertical play in them was almost as much as in the ones I 
replaced.

To line the doors up so they closed something approaching properly I had to
support the door, on a lump of 4x2 while it was open, then tighten the 
nuts/bolts
up. When the wood is moved the door drops a bit to the right position, 
hopefully!

This can take a number of attempts to get them to fit, and if the door tops need
replacing or flap about a bit it can get even more of a hassle.
Just one of those fun jobs we insane types love.........

Mick Forster
1972 109" Series III Safari 2.25 petrol
1963 88" Series IIa 2.25 petrol
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/landpics.html

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