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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 13:36:10 +0200
Subject: Re: Cluth went out this morning on the way to work
Dario wrote;
> at the top of a mountain', or "Roadrunner" because of the speed :-) :-) =
Out of interest, which one of those applies to the Argentine military
aircraft of the same name?!
All the best,
Andy
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From: "William J McDonald" <wjmcdonald@silentpartner.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 07:41:03 -0500
Subject: subscribe
charset="iso-8859-1"
subscribe
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From: Mick Forster <cmtmgf@mail.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 12:37:06 +0000
Subject: Re: RV: Corrosion Problems
Dario Eduardo Marcoppido wrote:
> Wow !!!!!!!!!!
> I've thought that Land Rovers did not get corrosion, because they are =
> built of stanley steel !!!!
> Please somebody tell me if this is true !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Who's this Stanley Steel then, I've heard of Galvo Iron and Aly Durally but
not of Stan?
As for Landys and corrosion the aluminium body may corrode (see previous
threads; lots of!) and the chassis may rust, unless you have a galvanised
one then it takes a bit longer to rust.
Mick Forster
1972 109" Series III Safari 2.25 petrol
1963 88" Series IIa 2.25 petrol
http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/landpics.html
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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 08:21:39 EST
Subject: How resistant is a 2.25L to overheating?
Hi all,
Well, found out why the fanbelt was so loose today. Heading in to work, it
broke. Now the question:
How resistant is the 2.25 to overheating? I ran about 15 minutes at ambient
temp of 45 F before I could shut off the engine. The temp gauge normally runs
at the junction of C (white square) and N (Black area), it got up to covering
the N today.
Ways to test for damage?
Nate. (It idled well until though!)
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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 08:28:50 -0500
Subject: Re: How resistant is a 2.25L to overheating?
Nate, replace the belt and do a compression check when you get it home. If it's
not sucking down water and it's running OK you probably got away with it. The
2.25 isn't as touchy as the 3.5 when it comes to overheating - the cast-iron
body and head together will usually do ok.
ALso, check the oil for colour and smell. if it isn't burnt you dodged the
bullet.
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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 8:48:35 -0500
Subject: Re: How resistant is a 2.25L to overheating?
Carry a spare fan belt from now on there, Mr. PhD! I doubt you did any
harm to your engine, 'specially if you had the heater open. Should be
able to dissipate the heat pretty well without a circulating pump.
I drove the Golf around for half a hour with NO coolant couple weekends
ago, when the lower rad hose blew. No prob. Same for the Honda Goldwing
last year...unbelievable engine, that.
Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator...Softimage/Hal
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"
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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 08:59:35 -0500
Subject: Re: How resistant is a 2.25L to overheating?
Bill adds:
>Carry a spare fan belt from now on there, Mr. PhD!
Of course, this is from the guy who spent half of the 50th sourcing and
replacing a water pump on a Diesel....8*)
aj"People in glass Diesels...8*)"r
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From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 08:37:49 -0600 (CST)
Subject: siia ignition switches...
lulu (my 61 siia 88) suddenly died as i backed out
of a parking lot. wouldn't start. i noted that the
lites and gauges weren't working when i flipped
the switch on and off. hmmmmm. very frustrating as
i had a big list of toodoo items. i feel the
contacts on the ignition switch are toast, but not
sure. as i was outside of a hardware store, i went
in and bought 2 spring clips and 5feet of wire.
($1.76US) and ran a wire from the battery negative
post (lulu is still positive earth) to the
ignition coil. lites and gauges return and lulu
roars back to life. did as many of my chores as i could.
funny, i still use the ignition switch out of habit
but it doesnt do anything. i have to get out of the
rover and lift the hood (heavy with a 750/16 attached)
to clip and unclip the ignition patch cable.
last nite (while being inspired by an adult beverage)
i thought to run the wire outside to a switch and
that works good. dumb me, i should have gone one step
further and moved the switch/wire inside the cab, but
that is the next step.
ok, the questions.
-- is the ignition switch the #1 suspect here. can those
be rebuilt or are they sealed. (siia with the ignition
switch in the center of the liteswitch assembly).
any crossover or do i have to order the $$part$$
from my rover supply house.
i will find out when i dig into the dash, but if i don't
have a part on hand or can't repair the old one, then i
have to dig into the dash twice...
-- on the old mg, they always talked about a ballast resistor
associated with the coil to help starting. the ballast
resistor cut the voltage back and helped prevent burning
the points. i see no sign of a balast resistor...
-- sounds strange, but the beast runs better, idles smoother.
was there some resistance contact (assuming the ignition
switch was about to go) that had cut down on my sparking
ability...
-- how many months can i run with the patched/switched
temporary solution. how many years. is this a SPOT...
Sincerely,
Ray Harder
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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:40:59 EST
Subject: Re: How resistant is a 2.25L to overheating?
In a message dated 3/25/99 8:55:40 AM Eastern Standard Time, badams@usia.gov
writes:
> Carry a spare fan belt from now on there, Mr. PhD! I
Got one, just that the Boy gets touchy about being late for school. At 15.9
years of age, I sometimes take the path of least resistance. Figured I was
OK, but I don't normally heat up the motor like that.
Alan, I'll do the compression test when I get home. What am I looking for?
Generalized lower numbers or one cylinder being down in particular? No white
smoke, btw.
Nate
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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:46:49 EST
Subject: Re: siia ignition switches...
In a message dated 3/25/99 9:40:12 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ccray@showme.missouri.edu writes:
> ok, the questions.
> -- is the ignition switch the #1 suspect here. can those
> be rebuilt or are they sealed. (siia with the ignition
> switch in the center of the liteswitch assembly).
> any crossover or do i have to order the $$part$$
> from my rover supply house.
Check the fuse and fuse holder on the ignition circuit. If it is toast or
corroded, it can give you the same result. BTDT too.
Nate
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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:49:29 -0500
Subject: Re: How resistant is a 2.25L to overheating?
Alan, I'll do the compression test when I get home. What am I looking for?
Generalized lower numbers or one cylinder being down in particular? No white
smoke, btw.
Nate
Basically look for odd numbers - if one's down you might have buggered the head
gasket or the like. Make sure you do it with all the plugs out - if you've got a
leak between two cylinders this makes it easier to see because the opposite
cylinder is open to the air.
Like a lady on the list who used to carry a compression gauge in her handbag
(Hi, TeriAnne!), I find that a quick compression test is one of the better
indicators of an engine's health. If it's blowing out into an oil passage , or
if the oil and water are doing the mix thing that should be obvious from
inspecting the fluids involved.
ajr
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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:57:07 -0500
Subject: Re: siia ignition switches...
Ray, thewse switches (like most of Lucas' grimoire) can be disassembled and
cleaned. Jusrt be careful - the little bits go everywhere. Lube it with
lubriplate or a good lithium grease when you're done and you'll be amazed at how
well it works.
Hints:
1. Don't use coarse anything to clean the contacts - an ink eraser is the
perfect thing for buffing the contact bits, as scratchy anything applied to the
contacts will reduce their current-carrying ability and make them more likely to
burn up
2. Rivet-to-right-angle connections can be soldered if marginal - just go easy
on the heat.
3. MARK THE DAMN WIRES BEFORE YOU DISCONNECT I!
aj"Been there, done this....."r
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From: "David C. Stevens" <chsteven@aerotek.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 10:06:12 -0500
Subject: Intake/Exhaust Manifold Bolts
Anyone know the size (and if I can by them at a hardware store) of the
four bolts that connect the manifolds? Got a new exhaust manifold and
clean used intake manifold that I want to install--and I'm afraid the
old bolts have had it.
Chris Stevens
1969 Series IIa, 88"
Towson, MD
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From: Vel Natarajan <vel@enteract.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:10:24 -0600
Subject: Re: RV: Corrosion Problems
Stainless Steel? Maybe you're thinking of the DeLorean...
LR body panels are made of "Brimabright", an alumin(i)um alloy. But
the chassis and other misc parts are steel.
On Wed, Mar 24, 1999 at 10:45:49PM -0300, Dario Eduardo Marcoppido wrote:
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From: "David C. Stevens" <chsteven@aerotek.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 10:11:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Intake/Exhaust Manifold Bolts
Make that "buy" them at a hardware store.
Chris
David C. Stevens wrote:
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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 10:13:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Intake/Exhaust Manifold Bolts
CHris - I believe they're 3/8 coarse thread. Don't believe you'll find studs
that long in a hardware store, though...
Stainless all-thread with stainless hardware and galvi washers?
ajr
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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 99 07:22:00 -0800
Subject: Re: How resistant is a 2.25L to overheating?
<<Well, found out why the fanbelt was so loose today. Heading in to
work, it
broke. Now the question:>>
Personally I would have stopped the car, slipped into the heavy long
sleaved sweat shirt that I keep in a bag by my tool box and installed the
spare fan belt I keep along side my spare set of radiator hoses and spare
fuel filter. If I had on an expensive dress that might stain easily I
could ether close the curatins & put on the jeans that are also in my
get-greasy clothes that are kept in my car or I would have called AAA.
I, personally, would not drive a car without a circulating cooling system
filled with coolent. Mind you I have driven my car when it had major
head cracks and I had to stop every 20 minutes or so to cool the engine
and add additional coolent. Nothing like Summer in the desert a long way
from home. But at least I had coolent that was circulating through the
engine, radiator....combustion chaimbers and exhaust system. It helped
that I also carry a stack of books to read. I did a lot of reading
alongside the road on my way home that summer.
<<How resistant is the 2.25 to overheating? I ran about 15 minutes at
ambient
temp of 45 F before I could shut off the engine.>>
The ambient was cool and the time you ran the car was short so you
probably did not hurt anything. But it would not hurt to carry tools and
a spare fan belt in the future.
If you boil out enough coolent your temperature guage will read lower
than the engine temperature. Also a sender unit sitting at the front of
the head doesn't tell the story of what is happening towards the rear of
the head where it might get hot enough to turn the water into high
pressure steam inside a coolent passage.
Your biggest fear would be thermal gradients causing cracks in the head
around the combustion chaimber. If you are lucky you didn't get any. If
not, consider the purchase of a new 2.5L head when the cracks get large
enough to cause overheating.
Small head cracks may not be noticable with a compression gauge. You
might notice that the car runs slightly warmer than it did and you have
to occasionally add coolent. But once started head cracks tend to grow
under the stresses of thermal gradients as the engine warms up. The
engine can just gradually run a little hotter over time until one day you
notice that it is running way too hot climbing hills or in hot weather.
If you did get cracks there is no use of worrying about it until the
cracks get big enough to cause overheating. If the head did not crack
you have nothing to worry about. Ether way you have nothing to worry
about. Besides your savings account should include enough money to
purchase a new head anyway.
Hope your head remained solid. Considering abmbient tep & time driven it
probably did.
TeriAnn Wakeman Coming soon
Santa Cruz, California New hub web site for
twakeman@cruzers.com everything Rover and expedition equipment
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman Links-cars for sale-special equip.
equip. reviews-Books-expeditions
& much more!!
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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 10:34:04 EST
Subject: Re: How resistant is a 2.25L to overheating?
In a message dated 3/25/99 10:22:01 AM Eastern Standard Time,
twakeman@cruzers.com writes:
> But it would not hurt to carry tools and
> a spare fan belt in the future.
Got one, but no place to change it for a few miles. Once stopped to check out
why the charge light came on, I had an irritable 15 year old who'll barely get
in the Rover as it is. I figured 5 more minutes to his school was not going
to add much more to the problem by that point.
> If you boil out enough coolent your temperature guage will read lower
> than the engine temperature.
No boiling noticable, the overflow tank had about the usual amount of coolant
in it. Radiator was hot, engine too, but I could still put my hand on the
valve cover and the valve cover breather. I'll check the fluids before
heading home and again after I get there.
Hate to ruin a rebuilt head only a few months after a rebuild...
Update later..
Nate
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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 10:48:52 -0500
Subject: Gettin' belted
Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu> wrote:
>And the fact that with those lap belts, my head would land squarely on the
>steering wheel if I hit something. Has anyone managed to hook up three
>point belts that are fairly comfortable?
If you already have seat belts, it's easy. RN sells a retracting
shoulder/lap belt. One anchor point is the galvanized angle bracket at the
corner of the seatbox and door post ("B" pillar); it can be purchased
separately if you don't already have one. The other (if you don't have
belts) is the bottom fittings for the interior bulkhead. That leaves the
upper attachment point.
>Would anchoring them to the Hard top be OK?
RN also sells a triangular bracket that mounts behind the fascia panel
between the door pillar, roof line and the rear window. I bought one, but
when I pulled the fascia panel off, lo and behold, there was a bracket with
a captive nut waiting...with the same weird metric thread as the part made
20 years later. (Mind you this is a very early '72, with but *one* other
metric bolt on the whole bloody thing.) The only thing left to do was
secure the reel mechanism, which I did to the top of the bulkhead with
grade 8 bolts.
The only problem I had (ordered these when RN first started carrying them)
was that I only ordered the "driver's" side first to see if it would fit.
Since it was a 'genuine' part, guess which side that was.... Cheers
*----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
| |
| A. P. ("Sandy") Grice |
| Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. |
| Association of North American Rover Clubs |
| 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 |
|(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
| |
| (original owner) (pre-production) |
*----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*
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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 08:50:33 +0200
Subject: Re: Death Trap
Jeremy Bartlett wrote:
> I'd also point out that the individual wiper motors and bar handle across the
> back of the front seat on the 109 SWs are serious head bangers for those with
lap
> belts only. I removed the bar handle on mine since I installed dormobile
seats
^^^^^^^^^^^^
Also known as "the knee-capper" for those not fortunate enough to break
their forward motion using their heads.
Regards
Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za
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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:23:45 +0200
Subject: Re: Death Trap
Andy Grafton wrote:
> In both cases the belts were non-retractable i.e. adjustable fixed
> length 3 point harnesses.
Except in the Series IIIs's where they were fitted with retractable's.
Regards
Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za
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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 12:40:36 -0400
Subject: Re: How resistant is a 2.25L to overheating?
NADdMD@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/25/99 10:22:01 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> twakeman@cruzers.com writes:
> > But it would not hurt to carry tools and
> > a spare fan belt in the future.
> Got one, but no place to change it for a few miles. Once stopped to check out
> why the charge light came on, I had an irritable 15 year old who'll barely get
> in the Rover as it is. I figured 5 more minutes to his school was not going
[ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
> Update later..
> Nate
If this happens again grasp the broken belt, swinging it menacingly and
approach 15 year old and dare him to irritated. Any child that gets
driven
to school has no right to be irritated.
Why, when I were a lad I had to walk 100 miles in 10 feet of
snow.........
John and Muddy
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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 99 08:44:39 -0800
Subject: Re: siia ignition switches...
>lulu (my 61 siia 88) suddenly died as i backed out
>of a parking lot.
For future reference, to hot wire your car all you need to do is run a
jumper wire between the top and lower fuses on the fuse block. One of
those fuses is always hot and the other is for switched power. So did
you check the fuses? Make sure that the metal spring contacts are clean.
Before you run out and spend slightly over US$ 100 for a new switch,
check to make sure that your problem is indeed the switch and not a
corroded, loose or broken connection.
My manual is in my LR, it is raining outside & I'm still in my nightgown
so I will try this from memory.
Power goes from your battery through the big cable to the back of your
bulkhead mounted starter switch. There is a slide on connector held to
the hot side of the starter switch by the nut that holds the big cable
in place. That nut should be tight. If you can turn your starter motor
everything is probably OK to that point. There should be a big solid
brown wire that connects to the terminal at the hot side starter switch
connection. Make sure that the connection is good & clean. The brown
wire goes up to the voltage regulator and the fuse box. Check all large
dia solid brown wire connections there to make sure that connections are
tight and clean.
Open the centre instrument panel and lay it out flat. You will see a
large brown wire going to the ignition switch. I think you will find it
on the 'A' terminal on the outside ring of connectors. You probably have
the switch with the screw terminals. Make sure that the brown wire
connection is tight and clean. With the battery reconnected connect
ether a volt meter or a 12V test light between the terminal with the
solid brown wire and a good ground. You should get a reading. If you
do not the probalem is most likely at one of the brown wire connections
(could be a wire to connector problem). If you do get a reading you know
that you have voltage getting to the switch.
There are actually two switches inside the housing. The brown wire
(terminal A?) provides feed to both the ignition switch and the headlamp
switch. If there is power going to the brown wire terminal (measured on
the switch side of the connection and not the connector attached to the
wire), when you turn the headlamp switch onto the on position there
should be 12V at the terminal with the solid blue wire (goes to the
headlight dimmer switch on the floor). If there is no voltage then the
switch is broken at the 'A' terminal. Check that connection real well.
The second switch is the ignition switch. There should be a brown/white
stripe(?) wire that comes out of the terminal marked ign at the centre of
the switch assembly. That wire goes to the amp meter and if memory
serves through the amp meter and to the other fuse on the fuse block.
Turn the ignition switch to the on position. If you can measure power at
the ign terminal at the centre rear of the switch (brown/white(?)) then
your ignition switch is OK.
Next check for power on both sides of your amp meter by measuring between
the terminal to ground with the ignition switch turned on.
Varify the colour of the wire coming away from the amp meter. I think it
will still be brown with a white stripe. Go back to the fuse block and
check the connection at the fuse block. It should be clean and tight.
With the ignition switch turned on it should have 12V at the terminal.
You should also have 12V on the other side of the fuse. The other side
of the fuse is where all the switched electrical accessories connect. I
think the coil connects there as well.
Your problem is in the area I described. Don't assume a bad ignition
switch without testing it. New ones have spade type connectors and you
would need to fit all your connecting wires with new connectors. It most
likely will be a lose of corroded connection. Next likely would be a
broken or corroded connection between the wire and it's connector.
Best of luck!!!
TeriAnn Wakeman If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California start the subject line with TW -
twakeman@cruzers.com I will be sure to read the message
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman
"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937
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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 12:45:36 -0400
Subject: Re: siia ignition switches...
Ray Harder wrote:
> lulu (my 61 siia 88) suddenly died as i backed out
> of a parking lot. wouldn't start. i noted that the
> lites and gauges weren't working when i flipped
> the switch on and off. hmmmmm. very frustrating as
> i had a big list of toodoo items. i feel the
> contacts on the ignition switch are toast, but not
> sure. as i was outside of a hardware store, i went
[ truncated by list-digester (was 48 lines)]
> Sincerely,
> Ray Harder
Ah Ray thanks for the
memories.
This is just the method we used in College
to steal the Farm Managers Land Rover that was safely stored in the bike
shed. It lightened many a slow weekend and speeded the journey to the
Pub.
John and Muddy
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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 15:32:28 +0200
Subject: Re: How resistant is a 2.25L to overheating?
NADdMD@aol.com wrote:
> How resistant is the 2.25 to overheating? I ran about 15 minutes at ambient
> temp of 45 F before I could shut off the engine. The temp gauge normally runs
> at the junction of C (white square) and N (Black area), it got up to covering
> the N today.
The theory goes something along the lines that if the vehicle's moving,
the air's moving through the radiator and rotating the fan/waterpump,
and everything's hunky-dory. Problem is when you stop moving...
Regards
Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za
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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 13:15:38 EST
Subject: Re: How resistant is a 2.25L to overheating?
In a message dated 3/25/99 1:04:37 PM Eastern Standard Time,
paul@adventures.co.za writes:
> Problem is when you stop moving...
When I stopped, the key went off. Hard to unload a kid at 20 mph, but for the
sake of the rover...
Nate
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From: Kerry Scott <KERRYSCOTT@usa.net>
Date: 25 Mar 99 11:37:49 MST
Subject: Speed Differentials
Until the subject came up on our list, I hadn't given much thought to the
speed differentials between our Land Rovers and other traffic. It is
something to think about. I can't help but remember what happened on the
Austrian Autobahns in the first couple of years after the Iron Curtain came
down. They were suddenly flooded with Trabants, Ladas, etc. that topped out
at 60-70 kph trying to share the same piece of road with Bimmers, Mercedes',
etc. doing 2-3 times that. The worst was some of the tour busses from the
east and the chaos they created when they pulled over into the passing lane.
Most of that problem is history now, though I think it was ultimately
environmental concerns over the pollution coming out of their exhausts rather
that safety concerns which ultimately got most of them off the road.
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From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 12:38:42 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: siia ignition switches...
On Thu, 25 Mar 1999, TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> Before you run out and spend slightly over US$ 100 for a new switch,
> check to make sure that your problem is indeed the switch and not a
> corroded, loose or broken connection.
terriann -- thanks for the encouragement. i have a voltmeter
and the siia factory manual. i will spend some time this
weekend (assuming it is warm -- it is supposed to be) going thru
the feed systematically as you suggest. i am disappointed that
the new switch a) is $100, and b) doesn't have the proper connectors.
i still think it is close to the switch (did i say earlier that
my headlights worked; starter turned over normally).
i am pleased that i could get back on the road so quickly and
i am currently driving it with minimum concern of getting
stranded. try that with a modern vehicle with
electronic/computer controlled ignition.
Sincerely,
Ray Harder
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From: "Tom Hodgkiss" <tomlandrover@hotmail.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 12:39:33 PST
Subject: DAKOTA or nearby--Brit. wanting L/R & any off-roading!
I am living inbetween North & South Dakota (West side), and i am staying
hear till June, when i will drive down the USA.
I am British and love L/R's, and i would like to goto or take part in
any off-roading, wether trails or competitions. I would take some
photographs and do a write up, which would most likely go in to Land
Rover Magazine (LRM).
I'm also keen to BUY a land rover for the period i am here.
THANKS
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From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 12:57:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Paint
At 12:00 PM 3/25/99 -0800, Daniel Oppenheim <daniel5@best.com> wrote:
>I finally was able to relocate the URL for paint info. I think it's great:
> http://www.fourfold.org/LR_FAQ/Series/FAQ.S.paint.top.html
A nice piece of PLAGARISM!
Originally from www.landrover.net/paint
-Michael
Michael Carradine ___,_\__ www.landrover.net
Architect [_______] 50-80, 72-88, 89-RR Land Rovers
925-988-0900 _______.._(o)_.(o)__..o^^ POBox 430, Walnut Creek, CA 94597
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From: Russ Wilson <gambrinus66@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 13:18:38 -0800
Subject: Paint etc..
I didn't reply to the original because I didn't want this to be eaten by
the major and cut in half. In regards to anyone plagarising anything to do
with paint information or paint codes I think that the folks at Dupont who
originally put the code information out there for public use might have
something to say. We have enough lawyers crawling around on this list I'm
sure one will pop his head up long enough to give everyone a quick lesson
on Plagarism.
Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner
"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
Dennis Miller
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From: John Karlsson <karlsson@edgenet.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 16:07:12 -0500
Subject: Re: siia ignition switches...
At 08:37 AM 3/25/99 -0600, Ray Harder wrote:
=>-- how many months can i run with the patched/switched
> temporary solution. how many years. is this a SPOT...
The ignition switch on my '66 IIA 88 died in the early 70s. I bypassed it
and installed three switches in series. Two of these were in the dash
panel (one neatly labeled "WIPER") and one hidden under the dash. I took
this precaution because I worked with some jokers who were definitely not
above stealing my Rover and hiding it.
When I did the rebuild a couple of years ago, I noticed that my parts car
had a switch in the panel labeled "ING" (sic), so I didn't even bother to
check the ignition switch to see if it worked. But now I have reduced to a
single switch on the dash, unlabeled, of course. I may still have a
"stealth" switch under the dash for those paranoid moments, but I'm not
sure. Maybe I should go out and look...
John Karlsson
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From: IBEdwardp@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 16:46:32 EST
Subject: Re: Leaks
My 88 has had about all the seals replaced, but still leaks a bit. I am
concerned that while the transmission seems to always be full or slightly over
full, the transfer case needs topped up every couple if weeks. Am I correct in
assuming that there is a seal between the two which is leaking from the
transfer case into the transmission? How big a deal is this to correct? Do I
need to bleed of the transmission when topping up the transfer case? This
isn't a bad leak, but I worry about problems from running the transmission
overfilled. Any comments will be appreciated.
Ed Bailey
66 S2A SWB
"Millennium Falcon"
(Somewhere in East Tennessee)
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From: Russ Wilson <gambrinus66@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 14:16:57 -0800
Subject: In the begining there was paint...
I'm not sure who was the first to invent paint or who came up with the idea
to put paint on Land Rovers. I don't even know who was the first to write
all of this vital information down. Though he may claim it, I'm pretty
sure it wasn't Al Gore . Here's a little tidbit from the dark ages of
roverdom on the internet...
"This list is provided as a service to the Land_Rover community by Mid
America Rover. Please send comments, corrections, and particularily
additions of paints codes and suppliers to be added to the list to Mike
Hoskins, Mid America Rover, 10708 College Ave., Kansas City, MO 64137 USA
phone/Fax 816-763-3797, or e-mail paint@landrover.net
Special thanks for information provided to this list by Bill Grouell, Alan
Richer, Sandy Grice, Steve Bradke, and the Rovers North newsletter, Spring
'91"
Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner
"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
Dennis Miller
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From: andy Smith <andy@bobstar.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 20:56:36 +0000
Subject: Re: Intake/Exhaust Manifold Bolts
>David C. Stevens wrote:
>NO MAIL LOOPS: DELETE THIS and following lines to forward.
For more information please visit http://www.bobstar.demon.co.uk/index.html
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From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 18:06:28 -0500
Subject: Re: In the begining there was paint...
Russ Wilson wrote:
> I'm not sure who was the first to invent paint or who came up with the idea
> to put paint on Land Rovers. I don't even know who was the first to write
> all of this vital information down. Though he may claim it, I'm pretty
> sure it wasn't Al Gore . Here's a little tidbit from the dark ages of
> roverdom on the internet...
> "This list is provided as a service to the Land_Rover community by Mid
> America Rover. Please send comments, corrections, and particularily
[ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
> Leslie Bittner
>Seeing that makes me feel like an old-timer..
I have the paint codes but the Rover still isn't finished
Rgds
Steve Bradke '68 S lla 88
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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 18:22:47 EST
Subject: Re: Death Trap
Howdy folks,
I used stock LR seatbelt mounts to put some Saab 900 3-point retractable belts
($10 for the set at the local scrapyard) in my 109SW. Used the rooftop mounts
from a SIII 88", which are identical to the stock 109SW seatbelt mounts
whenever they added those to the 109SWs.
For the inertia reels, they mounted just behind the door pillars and are
bolted right through the floor to the outrigger w/ grade 8 7/16" bolts. The
only partially flaky mount is the buckle receivers bolted to the seatbox--I
need to get some chunkier pieces of steel under there. All other mounts are
either stock or are bolted to the crossmember.
Eventually I'll put a rollbar in (I'm worried about those top mounts once I
take the roof off as I plan to before too long.) and bolt as much as I can to
the rollbar--probably run a cross piece right behind/below the front seat
bottoms and bolt those receiver buckles to that.
Bill Rice
SIIA109SW
Columbus GA/ Ft. Leavenworth, KS
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From: Spenny@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 19:04:22 EST
Subject: Re: Paint
>>I finally was able to relocate the URL for paint info. I think it's great:
>> http://www.fourfold.org/LR_FAQ/Series/FAQ.S.paint.top.html
> A nice piece of PLAGARISM!
> Originally from www.landrover.net/paint
>-Michael
mike,
i've been saying for a while that you are the biggest asshole on this list,
thanks for finally proving it.
rgds,
spenny
Arlington, VA
1969 SWB, The Wayback Machine
1965 Ex-MOD LWB, Gromit <- Just add bolts :-0
Land Rover - 4WD of choice for the Information Superhighway
Q. Why do they call it a kilt?
A. Because a lot of people got kilt when they called it a skirt.
The road to hell is paved with unbought stuffed dogs.
-Bill Gorton
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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 16:32:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Corrosion problems
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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 19:32:05 EST
Subject: Hella valotta condensation
Howdy folks,
Anyone else got Hella headlamps? Best $75 I never spent (I won 'em at a
rally). I love 'em.
But today I am poking around near them because, of course, one of my grounds
is loose again causing one to be dim, and I note tons of condensation in both!
Because I'm lazy I've not pulled them out to verify that these are one piece,
sealed jobbers (positive they are though). So why would both be fairly full
of water--had her in pretty deep t'other day, but lights were off-didn't
crack, and besides this water is clean. Just a lot of beads on the faces of
both lamps.
Any similar experiences? I'll bet Hella will replace 'em free, eh?
Thanks,
Bill Rice
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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 19:53:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Death Trap
Re: Inertia-reel seatbelts with a rollbar:
When I did mine I duplicated the mounts that were inside my pickup roof on the
rollbar - perfect for when the roof is off and the canvas is on.
Essentially I machined some grade-8 nuts to press fit into reamed holes in the
rollbar, then welded them in place. The inertia reel bolts in on the bottom and
the pivot is at the bottom of the curve - works great and keeps the proper
geometry.
ajr
Re: Paint Plagiarism: Considering my name is on that little love note I should
be annoyed at mr. Carradine, but I am not. Cool your jets, clown, before you
make more of an idiot of yourself than usual.
Bill Grouell's the one who originally gathered that info.
ajr
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From: daveb <davebobeck@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 19:56:09 -0500
Subject: re:paint
******************
From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 12:57:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Paint
> http://www.fourfold.org/LR_FAQ/Series/FAQ.S.paint.top.html
> A nice piece of PLAGARISM!
**************
Still ticked off about LROA not getting control of the Rover Web?
Get over it man, ancient history. All of the info on your LR.net page
was taken from this list anyway.
You sound more like a lawyer than an architect.
Do you even have a running Land Rover?
All the best,
Dave
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From: "James G.Wolf" <elvenwood@whro.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 20:05:47 -0500
Subject: RE: mud look
>Probably pretty good. Think about it. You can take a very expensive
>car, give it a quick gonzo off road look without any of the effort of
>actually going out on a mud run and without the worry of breaking any
>parts or risking the paint to possible damage. You couldn't find an
>easier way to get the just back from a major mud run look in just a few
>minutes on the way to work.
>Instant offroad gonzo look, just add muddy urban/suburban lot and stir.
I have even given some thought to just painting the muddy look on.
Shouldn't be to difficult.
Jim Wolf
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From: "James G.Wolf" <elvenwood@whro.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 20:09:55 -0500
Subject: RE: strange noise
OK,OK let the mother-in-law out of the BOOT!!! That should eliminate the
strange noise in the rear 8^).
Jim Wolf
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From: "James G.Wolf" <elvenwood@whro.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 20:23:50 -0500
Subject: RE: death trap
>Oh... I'm not so convinced a series is a 'death trap.'
>But I've never been in an accident.
>Think about how many little tin cans are on the roads...
>My concerns are the lack of head support, and side impact protection,
>my tanks being under my passenger and I.
My wife can attest to the strenght of our 109 sw in a crash. She had a Ford
Maverick pull out from a side street without stopping, she hit him solidly
in post between the doors and knocked him 60 or 70 feet into a side yard.
She was fine thanks to our 3 point seat belts and that wonderful Landy
front bumper. The Ford was total loss, our 109 had a bent bumper, destroyed
left fender and broken main leaf spring. This was at about 35-40 mph. She
drove it home as it was. This also happened about 20 years ago, we still
have the same 109 sw.
Jim Wolf
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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 20:16:19 +0100
Subject: Re: How resistant is a 2.25L to overheating?
My experience is that the 2.25 will run for a long while without much
oil or water (but not both) without any due damage.
Usual symptoms to look for - change in engine performance, smoke, oil
puddles (or new oil puddles) change in normal oil pressure reading,
change in normal temperature reading. If after repair and refill these
vital functions behave (or misbehave) just as they did before, then I
would give your engine a clean bill of health.
The first item to go south when the engine overheats excessivly is the
temperature sender!
Of course I could be wrong - you might want a second opinion?
Good luck!
--
Adrian Redmond
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark
telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit the "Native Experience" website at
http://www.channel6.dk/native
Contact the "Native Experience" film unit in Alaska
telephone +1 (907) 230 0359
e-mail channel6@alaska.net
Visit our homepages! www.channel6.dk
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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 20:25:54 +0100
Subject: Why, when I were a lad I had to walk 100 miles in 10 feet of snow.....
You were lucky!
Adrian Redmond
http://www.channel6.dk/native
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From: urbncby@sgi.net (Scott C. Wickham Jr.)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 21:21:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Death Trap
> also how safe is it for side impact?
Well...lets see. Go outside, smash a can of your favorite cheap beer,
hold it against your leg and have a friend run into you. Did you get hurt?
Now you've learned something!
Scott C. Wickham Jr.
Pittsburgh, Pa.
1972 Ser III
Zebra truck
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From: urbncby@sgi.net (Scott C. Wickham Jr.)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 21:27:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Paint
>i've been saying for a while that you are the biggest asshole on this list,
>thanks for finally proving it.
Sssshhhhhhoooo...(one flaming spear from spenny)! Good shot...
Scott C. Wickham Jr.
Pittsburgh, Pa.
1972 Ser III
Zebra truck
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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 03:30:48 +0100
Subject: Corrosion problems?
LAND ROVERS DO NOT HAVE A CORROSION PROBLEM!
Land Rovers have a surviving problem. By the time most SUV's have
depreciated to their third and final owner, and have long since swapped
theirpristine interior with smoked glass and stereo for
chickens-on-the-back-seat, Land Rovers are just getting worn in.
And that's the problem - the vital organs of a Land Rover - engine,
gearbox, axles and suspension last a long while. If kept well the
chassis and body lasts well too. Well enough to make it pay to keep
repairing or replacing parts long after any jap-crap would have been
sent into push-up-daisy-mode.
And if a car gets that old - 15 - 30 years, yes it will get corrosion
problems.
What the original poster may be referring to is shoddy finish problems -
new defenders which loose their lustre, and begin to rust in places
which Series III's didn't.
I have little experience of that problem - though I might....
:-)
--
Adrian Redmond
http://www.channel6.dk/native
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From: "Dario Eduardo Marcoppido" <marcoppido@intramed.net.ar>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 12:40:30 -0300
Subject: Corrosion Problems: I have a doubt ! ! !
charset="iso-8859-1"
As for Landys and corrosion the aluminium body may corrode (see =
previous
threads; lots of!) and the chassis may rust, unless you have a =
galvanised
one then it takes a bit longer to rust.
Sorry, but Defender 90 - 110 - 130 can get corrosion too?
I've read in a magazine that they are made of steel THAT RESIST =
CORROSION
Is this true ???????
Dario Eduardo Marcoppido
marcoppido@intramed.net.ar
ICQ # 19368859
------=_NextPart_000_004A_01BE76BC.AB296AA0
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From: "Dario Eduardo Marcoppido" <marcoppido@intramed.net.ar>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 12:41:39 -0300
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Pucar=E1_name?=
charset="iso-8859-1"
Out of interest, which one of those applies to the Argentine =
military
aircraft of the same name?!
The attack airplane that is named Pucara is the IA-58, a twin prop with =
simmilar perfomance to the OA-?? Bronco of the USAF (not longer in use). =
It was designed to Counterinsurgence (COIN) missions, cheap airplane =
with good firepower: four 7.62 mm machineguns and two 20 mm cannons and =
can carry up 1.5 ton of free fall bombs, rockets or missiles
You can find photos of the IA-58 Pucar=E1 in www.faa.mil.ar
Greets
Dario Eduardo Marcoppido
marcoppido@intramed.net.ar
ICQ # 19368859
------=_NextPart_000_0069_01BE76BC.D426E2C0
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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 22:56:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Corrosion Problems: I have a doubt ! ! !
>Sorry, but Defender 90 - 110 - 130 can get corrosion too?
>I've read in a magazine that they are made of steel THAT RESIST =
>CORROSION
>Is this true ???????
No, not true, what are you reading?! Peter
Peter M. Kaskan Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382 Dept. Of Psychology
Lab / 607-255-6396 Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
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From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@fourfold.org>
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 00:12:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Paint
On Thu, 25 Mar 1999, Michael Carradine wrote:
> >I finally was able to relocate the URL for paint info. I think it's great:
> > http://www.fourfold.org/LR_FAQ/Series/FAQ.S.paint.top.html
> A nice piece of PLAGARISM!
> Originally from www.landrover.net/paint
That url links three pages. How is a page of links plagerism?
If this is plagerism on my part, how do you explain that Mike
Rooth's article on how to paint a Land Rover with a brush first appeared
in September 1994 in the OVLR newsletter? That Alan Richer's on using a
spray gun appeared in the September 1995 OVLR newsletter. Paint codes?
Let's go talk to Dupont, ICL et al... Oh, format? That's from RN and
other sources on the LR list from days before you reared your head. That
list was in a number of publications years ago. Plagerism of paint code
numbers? Now, if you have Mike and Alan's articles on your site too, then
I think we gotta talk...
Your happy site "Landrover.net" (let's talk about infringement
here... <ahem>) looks to be registered on September 1997 according to
internic. Well after all of these particular pages were created.
Grow up...
Rgds,
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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 19:00:24
Subject: Re: another seat belt arrangement
The seat belts on my 1970 88 are anchored on the bulkhead behind the
left
shoulder. They are adjustable but not retracting. They look stock and
came with a shackle and bolt for fitting to the bottom right side and the
bulkhead. Kind of nautical looking attachments. They use stock hardware
on the left side. Have no reason to believe this was not a stock set up.
Big advantage is that they work with the top off the truck. Supposedly
some people are concerned that the slight downward angle of the belt might
give you a broken collar bone in a serious head on but I think you'd have
to have a long torso for it to be a problem.
I have removed my middle seat and its attendant lap belt. In an
accident
the occupant is going to eat the gear shift with unamusing results.
Aloha Peter
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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 00:24:01 +1000
Subject: Looking for a French Canadian
Someone on the lists was looking for a French Canadian who had moved to
Australia and worked in LR sales.
Please contact me off list
Ron
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From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 00:08:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Paint
At 12:12 AM 3/26/99 -0500, Dixon Kenner <dkenner@fourfold.org> wrote:
:>On Thu, 25 Mar 1999, Michael Carradine wrote:
:>
:>> >I finally was able to relocate the URL for paint info. I think it's great:
:>> > http://www.fourfold.org/LR_FAQ/Series/FAQ.S.paint.top.html
:> [ truncated by lro-lite (was 7 lines)]
:>> A nice piece of PLAGARISM!
:>> Originally from www.landrover.net/paint
:>
:> That url links three pages. How is a page of links plagerism?
You're right! I meant to refer to only the "Paint codes" page
http://www.fourfold.org/LR_FAQ/Series/FAQ.S.paint.3.html
:> If this is plagerism on my part, how do you explain that Mike
:>Rooth's article on how to paint a Land Rover with a brush first appeared
:>in September 1994 in the OVLR newsletter? That Alan Richer's on using a
:>spray gun appeared in the September 1995 OVLR newsletter.
These artcles are not part of my intended comments, see above.
I meant to refer to only the "FAQ Paint codes" page.
:>Paint codes?
:>Let's go talk to Dupont, ICL et al... Oh, format? That's from RN and
:>other sources on the LR list from days before you reared your head. That
:>list was in a number of publications years ago. Plagerism of paint code
:>numbers?
The basic list was published by RN and others. The landrover.net/paint
page gives proper credit for it's origination. Your page does not refer
to RN or gives credit to anyone except yourself, and you claim full
copyright (except Mike Rooth and Alan Richer's linked articles). The
expanded landrover.net/paint code list acknowledges the contributions of
others and was not previously published.
The landrover.net/paint page credits Bill Grouell...
"Automotive paints are quite sensitive to temperatures: use the following
thinners/retarders. If you must paint at higher temps, add an anti-wrinkle
agent:
DuLux Thinner Temp Range Centari Thinner Temp Range
#8508 below 65 F #8034 below 70 F
#3812 65-75 F #8022 70-85 F
#3864 70-80 F #8093 above 85 F
#8522 above 80 F
"The DuLux cannot be clear-coated, though the Centari can be protected in
this fashion. DuLux can be mixed for brush application (like for roofs)
rather than spray application, though. DuPont "Corlar" two-part epoxy is
another primer alternative. As it is intended for aircraft, it is only
available in gallon cans, and in grey. Better living through chemistry..."
Land Rover FAQ Copyright Dixon Kenner 1994, 1995, 1996 claims as original...
"Automotive paints are quite sensitive to temperatures: use the following
thinners/retarders. If you must paint at higher temps, add an anti-wrinkle
agent:
DuLux Thinner Temp Range Centari Thinner Temp Range
#8508 below 65 F #8034 below 70 F
#3812 65-75 F #8022 70-85 F
#3864 70-80 F #8093 above 85 F
#8522 above 80 F "
Then Dixon inserts the following revelation...
"Note: While spray painting is the norm in North America, it is possible to
go the traditional Brit route and brush paint your Land Rover. (See Mike
Rooth's article in a past OVLR Newsletter) or you can paint a more modern
way (ie using a spray gun ) as Alan Richer did. The requirement is that the
paint be mixed differently for such application."
And then Dixon reverts to copying the original...
"The DuLux cannot be clear-coated, though the Centari can be protected in
this fashion. DuLux can be mixed for brush application (like for roofs)
rather than spray applicatio, though. DuPont "Corlar" two-part epoxy is
another primer alternative. As it is intended for aircraft, it is only
available in gallon cans, and in grey. Better living through chemistry."
Do these quotes look familar? Do I need to examine the codes list too?
The entire landrover.net/paint page evidently was not only plagarized but
was copied to form the basis of your page. No permission was asked, no
credit was given to sources or authors. You pretend it is all your
original work.
Do you understand the difference? Surely you must, because as editor of
the OVLR newsletter you cite copyright law and the Geneva convention in
near every issue. I recall you weeding your garden more than once as
other web sites used OVLR graphics on their commercial pages.
:> Your happy site "Landrover.net" (let's talk about infringement
:>here... <ahem>) looks to be registered on September 1997 according to
:>internic. Well after all of these particular pages were created.
The landrover.net pages were previously on another server, just as some
of the FAQ pages were promulgated from earlier sites. Notice the
copyright dates of 1992-1999 and revision date of 1/26/96, long before
there even was a Paint code page on the "FAQ".
:> Grow up...
Whatever!!
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From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 09:19:46 +0100
Subject: Problem with disengaging 4wd
Dear list,
I have a problem which I hope the collected wisdom of this list could
solve. Recently I have experienced a problem with my 1975 109" when
disengaging 4wd. When doing so 4wd is not immediately disengaged but stays
engaged for a few tenths of meters before it disengages with a clonk. This
has happened 3 or 4 times now. At two of these occasions I could feel a
strong pull to the right before the clonk after which everything was
normal. This does not happen everytime and the gearbox works well except
for this phenomenon. The only gearbox problems I have currently is a wine
which occurs at speeds over 60-70 km/h which I believe is a faulty bearing.
I have actually pulled the gearbox twice to change bearings but I haven´t
found the right one yet... I know, next time they will all be changed but
at least I now know how to pull the gearbox...
Thanks,
Peter
Peter Thoren
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Member #1379 Swedish Land Rover Club
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
Sweden
phone/fax +46 18 39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se
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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 11:06:01 +0200
Subject: Re: Problem with disengaging 4wd
Peter wrote;
> disengaging 4wd. When doing so 4wd is not immediately disengaged but stays
> engaged for a few tenths of meters before it disengages with a clonk. This
Peter if the transmission is even slightly 'wound up' then the dog
clutch in the transfer case used for engaging the front output shaft
will not slide freely and may take a short distance to disengage...
Had a 109 that required bouncing up and down kerbs (or similar
size objects) to get it to disengage. Sometimes jiggling in reverse
and first is also required. Don't know what exactly the clutch gets
sticky but it isn't a problem, just 'character'.
One way to minimise the problem is to change back to 2WD when
the wheels are still free to slip (nearly back on a good road or
whatever) as there will be minimal transmission wind up.
> for this phenomenon. The only gearbox problems I have currently
is a wine
> which occurs at speeds over 60-70 km/h which I believe is a faulty bearing.
Thus far in my experience the whine from a transfer 'box has been
caused by worn gears, not worn bearings. If you want to cure it
you may have to replace the gear on the transfer 'box end of the
mainshaft, the intermediate gear and the high range output shaft
gear. Just replacing one gear will probably just make the whine
worse and thus it can cost $$$. If the bearings get bad enough to
cause a whine there are usually grating/ticking/whirring noises as
well; when you replace the bearings the grating ceases but the
whine tends to remain.
All the best,
Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR & '82SIII c/w whiny transfer 'boxes
despite all new good quality bearings and careful clearance setting.
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From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@FS1-KFIH.AZR.NL>
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 11:10:22 +0100
Subject: Re: Corrosion Problems: I have a doubt ! ! !
> >Sorry, but Defender 90 - 110 - 130 can get corrosion too?
> >I've read in a magazine that they are made of steel THAT RESIST =
> >CORROSION
> >Is this true ???????
Yeah, as Man resists Women, yes, a fruitful combination indeed.
Regards,
Huub Pennings
(private e-mail to jpennings@worldonline.nl
e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl
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From: "Andy Woodward" <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 10:42:08 -0000
Subject: Exhaust paint
What's the best exhaust paint for a rusty but wirebrushed exhaust?
How does Aluminium paint do - I ask cos Al in contact with steel corrodes
away, so maybe hte paint would act as a sarificial anode, protecting teh
steel?
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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@offroading.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 11:13:45 -0000
Subject: Re: Re:Utter madness
Mike,
I agree - I used Britannia Rescue, just as bad. I warped the head on my old
J reg Granada on the motorway. Took 2 hours to come and get me, then they
spent an hour trying to fault it - declared NO FAULT FOUND and sent me
packing...2 miles later the temp. gauge was off the scale. I discovered that
she would run100% at any speed under 50...so I took her slowly to a friends
garage...where he swore lots at what damage had been done due to their
mis-diagnosis!
Sods - the lot of them. The AA don;t like it if you tell them what is wrong
and the guy I had deliberately checked EVERYTHING else on our old Pony
before checking what I'd said the fault was. And then he got it ******
wrong! The timing was out - anyone could tell! Ah well, and to top it all,
you all know my Exploder is smashed, well when I rang the RAC, they told me
my cover had expired - very embarassing, as I was in the cop car, and when
that was sorted they levied an extra charge for the vehicles size and the
fact it was 'offroad'! About 3 bloody feet offroad. They had to use
'Special' Equipment - I they winched it off the hedge - nothing the standard
recovery vehicle is'nt fitted with was used?!
Ah well, see you later, I suspect Ford are going to insult me and give me a
Ka to drive, or at best a Focus...I'll never live it down, of course I could
put the Ka in the back of the 109" as a spare!
Neil
SIII 109"
Kit Form Ford Exploder.
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From: Charles Irvin <cirvin1258@juno.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 03:16:15 -0800
Subject: Re: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Pucar=E1_name?=
On Thu, 25 Mar 1999 12:41:39 -0300 [multipart mime alternative 11 lines
deleted.] "Dario Eduardo Marcoppido" <marcoppido@intramed.net.ar> writes:
>The attack airplane that is named Pucara is the IA-58, a twin prop
>with =
>simmilar perfomance to the OA-?? Bronco of the USAF (not longer in
>use). =
>It was designed to Counterinsurgence (COIN) missions, cheap airplane
...that would be the OV-10 Bronco.
As for it no longer being in service - 'ya can't believe everything 'ya
read in an official publication...
Charles
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