The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: phil turnbull <p.turnbull@xtra.co.nz>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 00:14:45 +1200
Subject: subscribe

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 08:30:43 -0400
Subject: Re: check in & new brake drums?

st93wxta@drexel.edu wrote:
> Hey list,
> I haven't been reading the list much for a while.  Things at work have
> been pretty busy, the tape-out deadline on our chip is approaching.
> A while back I asked for advice on getting  my starter to work.
> Eventually I did get it starting (after a month of hand-cranking).
> All it took was some experimenting to find the best combination of ground
> straps.  One from battery to head, head to frame (not from dizzy mount)
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 22 lines)]
> something is it?
> Casey M

Absolutely right. That stuff is a corrosion inhibitor and has to go or
you 
won't stop.
John and Muddy

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 08:35:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Noisy gearlever

Michael Fuchs wrote:
> Hy, I'm having a problem with a VERY noisy gearlever in my 109 (diesel).
> The gearbox seems to be o.k., no problems with broken gears or worn out
> bearings (only one gearwheel in the transmission gearbox misses the
> corner a tooth(?)). The vibrations of the gearlever are causing a noise
> which is even louder the noise of the motor or the tires and more
> annoying. Anybody out there with the same problem and a solution to it?
> Greetings Mich

If your 109 is a series 11 or 11a there is a rubber O ring on the ball
at the bottom of the gear lever, replace it.
If  it is a series 111 then it will have a plastic ball and the lever
will
need to be replaced
John and Muddy

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From: "S.Deivard" <sdeivard@delta.telenordia.se>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 15:26:53 +0200
Subject: LR jokes

Hi
I have recently made a website about my zebrastriped Land Rover and I want to 
ad some Land Rover and Lucas jokes on it. I know that owning a Land Rover isn´t a 
joke but it sure is fun :-)   If anyone knows a good joke (or bad) please send 
it to me directly or post it on the list.
Thanks for the help.

Samuel H. Deivard
member #1147 in the Swedish Land Rover Club
e-mail  sdeivard@delta.telenordia.se
site   http://user.tninet.se/~frt112y

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From: Dan & Sally Cantwell <dcantwel@cgo.wave.ca>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 09:46:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Crank Pulley Removal (2.5 Turbo Diesel)

 I found that the only way I could get my crank pulley off was the use of my 
impact
gun (pneumatic). The constant pressure of using a wrench will only serve to 
rotate
the engine. This was a thread a while ago and I seem to remember someone using a
wrench against the frame and then the starter motor to do the work; I never 
tried
that one though.
Good luck.
Dan.
'61 SII 88 HT. Warthog.

"Christopher H. Dow" wrote:

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 07:35:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Crank Pulley Removal (2.5 Turbo Diesel)

You might try putting a bunch of rope in a sparkplug hole, kind of like
for doing valve seals. Probably need to make sure the piston is going
up on the compression stroke also so both valves will be closed.

Christopher H. Dow wrote:

>  The alternative in the book is to 'secure the pulley' while turning
> the nut, but it makes no suggestion of how to do this.  Does anyone have a
> suggestion?

-- 
Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab
http://www.users.uswest.net/~jimfoo/

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From: "John Baker" <daddyo@loxinfo.co.th>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 22:02:26 +0700
Subject: Noisy Gearlever

Hy, I'm having a problem with a VERY noisy gearlever in my 109 (diesel).
The gearbox seems to be o.k., no problems with broken gears or worn out
bearings (only one gearwheel in the transmission gearbox ....

Funny you should mention that. When I get up about 50 mph I get a noise
from the lever that is apparently from the bottom of the lever vibrating
against the the gizmos (name escapes me) that slide back and forth to
change gear. It is not very noisy but kind of bugs me as it is not really
necessary. Both shafts have been balanced, engine runs very smoothly, and
gearbox seems smooth too. If I grab the lever it stops, so I wound some
lead solder around it. That seemed to make it better, but still some noise.
My next step is perhaps to have a bit heavier metal sleeve machined to fit
on the top below the ball, which I hope will imitate the action of my hand.
Of course, this might be a bass-ackward solution, or perhaps there is a
better fix, if anyone has any ideas would be pleased to hear them. This is
the last noise now, all others have been eliminated.

John
Bangkok

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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 17:29:49 +0200
Subject: Re: Noisy Gearlever

John Baker wrote:
> My next step is perhaps to have a bit heavier metal sleeve machined to fit
> on the top below the ball, which I hope will imitate the action of my hand.
> Of course, this might be a bass-ackward solution, or perhaps there is a
> better fix, if anyone has any ideas would be pleased to hear them. This is
> the last noise now, all others have been eliminated.

How 'bout pulling the lever and examining the ball on the bottom tip
that goes into the selectors (gizmos). It should have a
nylon/fibre/whatever cup on the end which helps it slide and eliminates
vibration. It's probably worn. Have a new slightly oversized one turned
out of good quality tough plastic and your problem should go away.

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za

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From: Kibbutzim@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 10:38:41 EST
Subject: '95 Discovery

Hi,

I'm looking to buy a 5 spd. manual '95 Discovery and was intersted to know of
any potential problems or any 'heroic' stories about the vehicle.
Any comments will be greatly appriciated. Thanks, Guy Pearlman. 

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 99 08:37:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Noisy gearlever

>Hy, I'm having a problem with a VERY noisy gearlever in my 109 (diesel).
;
You most likely have one or more worn out parts at the base of your 
gearlever.  There is a spring that keeps pressure on the ball to keep it 
tight against the housing.  There is also an 'O' ring on the bottom ball 
where it contacts the metal sliders.  Make sure that all this is in good 
order and well greased.  There is no reason a well condition properly 
lubercated gear lever saaembly should make noise.

Good Luck!

TeriAnn Wakeman                              Coming soon
Santa Cruz, California                    New hub web site for
twakeman@cruzers.com             everything Rover and expedition equipment
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman    Links-cars for sale-special equip.
                                     equip. reviews-Books-expeditions
                                             & much more!!

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From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 13:34:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Crank Pulley Removal (2.5 Turbo Diesel)

When I did a timing belt change last year I bought the LR special tool to
hold the pulley. It makes things very easy, both removing and torquing back
up.
Allan

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From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 12:01:27 -0800
Subject: Re: Grease the SP housings

From: Karl Kurz <kkurz@acad.umm.maine.edu>
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 1999 10:12:43 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Grease the SP housings, forget the paint codes !

>Obviously, the PO had put grease in the housings, with hubs locked in
permanently, Christian fashion. And I have never (32 years with Rovers)
seen a starboard hand axle assembly as wiped out as this....AND STILL
WORKING !!  You could throw a cat through any one of those axle splines,
and most of the needles for the UVJ came out in the jelly that was
supposed to be lubricating ! ...Now, I'm firmer in my belief that the only
thing to have in those housings is good old 90wt...

And I'll betcha a 12" bronze cleat off one of your lobster boats (I happen
to need one) this is why the down-home folks over in Solihull wrote in
their owner and shop books to use 90wt oil in the swivel ball housings.  If
they'da wanted people to use grease, they'da said so, dontcha think?

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

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From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 12:33:57 -0800
Subject: Separate lists (was Paint & clubs)

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 99 12:30:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Paint & clubs et al...

> I just got tired of the LRO mail list getting filled with hundreds of
>e-mails about warrantee problems, questions about how to update a CD
>changer or cures for leaky power sun roofs and questions about
>nonfunctional power seat lumbar supports. ...So when Bill created the RRO
>list for coiler specific issues & talk, I went on a crusade to herd them
>off the LRO list onto their own RRO e-mail list where they could deal with
>their important CD changer & power seat issues in peace without having to
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>where we just sat about & chatted about important things like seized
>pistons in a long stationary 109 station wagon.

I have only been receiving the LRO list for a couple of years, so I was not
present when it was also being used to deal with new-model Land Rover
issues.  But I think the action taken to create separate lists for the
Series, Range Rover, and Coil Spring owners was the right thing to do.
It's been my (limited) experience that most owners of Land Rovers imported
to the US since 1987 have completely different concerns and priorities.
The vehicles themselves are significantly different from the old Series
machines, but most current buyers are more interested in having a status
SUV for hauling kids, groceries, going on vacation, etc. than in having a
true utility machine.

Because all the vehicles carry the Land Rover name, it can be easy to
overlook the huge gulf that, in my opinion, separates the Series Land
Rovers from the company's later offerings.  A Series Land Rover is a true
utility machine.  That's what it was designed to do, and it does it very
well.  In the '40s, '50s, and '60s no one cared about noise, comfort, or
speed when designing vehicles of this type.  If it did the job- hauled the
hay, served as a platform for medicating and docking sheep, carried the
fire-fighting equipment, got you across the desert in one piece, etc.-
that's all that mattered.

Keeping these vehicles running is purely a mechanical process.  You adjust
parts or replace parts.  On today's vehicles, keeping them running is just
as much an electronic process as it is a mechanical process.  Of the
relatively few problems we've had so far with our '91 Range Rover, most
have involved relays, switches, motors, and (electronic) filters.  The only
Series-type problems we've had so far have been a leaking hub seal, a
weeping brake piston seal, and a radiator that needs replacing because it's
not circulating coolant like it used to.  Putting all Land Rover owners on
the same list would be the equivelant of combining the owners of Ford Model
A's with the owners of the latest Ford Mustangs.  There is little of
practical value one group could learn from the other.

While I have no idea what sort of user lists exist for Jeeps, I would
imagine they have the same situation.  The Jeeps made during WWII and
through the 1970s are vastly different from the Jeeps made today,
particularly the Cherokee family, and the owners have widely differning
concerns and interests.  So if TerriAnn was instrumental in separating the
Land Rover owners into specific mailing lists, I, for one, am glad she made
the effort.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

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From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 12:45:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Bleeding dual master?

From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 1999 21:09:04 EST
Subject: Bleeding dual master?

>Quick question.  Just put a dual circuit master in my 109 SW today and get
awesome braking on pedal push number two, but zip on push number one.  Bled
and bled and bled everything--convinced air's out of the lines, though I
didn't bench-bleed the master prior to starting b/c the dual circuit master
sits horizontal on the pedal tower anyway.

This probably has nothing to do with the problem you're experiencing, but
just as general information, I've found it wise not to assume the bleed
valves are all working right on the wheel cylinders.   A year or so ago I
had the front calipers on our Range Rover rebuilt by a shop that
specializes in these things.  When I got them back and installed them, I
had a hell of a time bleeding one of the pistons in the left caliper.  No
matter how much we tried, there always seemed to be just a tiny bit of air
in that particular line.  Figuring it was my bleeding technique that was at
fault, we tightened everything down and called it a done deal.  A few days
later, the vehicle started pulling ever so slightly to the right on
stopping.  I pulled the left front wheel and re-bled the left caliper.
There was a fair amount of air in the line that had been giving us problems
before.  As the brake shop had installed all new bleed valves (but had
returned the old ones to me), I replaced the new valve with one of the old
ones.  The line bled properly, there was no more air, and the vehicle has
behaved correctly when braking ever since.

So if you experience a tough time getting all the air out of brake (or
clutch) line, the problem may be the bleed valve, particularly if you've
replaced it or if the cylinder and valves are new.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 23:11:56 +0200
Subject: Re: Dual M/C rebuild

wrap the plunger in a rag and hold it with a light but firm grip in a
vice.

Mount the valve plunger parts and rod through the spring.

Prepare the locking tube by lightly pressing the locking tab inwards
with a screwdriver, so that it will clip behind the flange groove on the
rear of the plunger when pressed into position.

Place the locking tube onto the rear of the plunger.

Fit the valve plunger and spring around the locking tube (it just
clears) and push this towards the plunger until the rod lines up with
the keyhole in the locking tube end. Do not push the locking tube yet,
as once this has clicked into place, the end of the plunger prevents the
rod from entering the keyhole. There is a hole in the middle of the
plunger end to allow place for the rod, but the rod cannot slip sideways
and come in/out of the keyhole.

Once the rod is inside the keyhole, use a pair of long nose pliers
through the side of the spring to hold the rod in the centre (locking)
position in the keyhole, then use a little side pressure on the pliers
at the same time to puch the locking tube in place. With your third hand
(!) use a screwdriver to ensure that the locking tab of the locking tube
engages in the groove on the stud at the rear of the plunger.

If you did this right, the assembly will stay assembles when you let go.
If you did it wrong, the locking tube is not locked and it will be
pulled of by the spring and all the bits will fall onto the floor which
you have cleaned first so that you can find the bits.... eh?

It does work, but it is fiddly. Three pairs of hands is a great help.

Good luck

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
      Visit the "Native Experience" website at 
          http://www.channel6.dk/native
Contact the "Native Experience" film unit in Alaska
          telephone   +1 (907) 230 0359
          e-mail      channel6@alaska.net
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 23:14:04 +0200
Subject: Re: Noisy gearlever

All my Series III gear levers have a metal ball with a groove for an
O-ring at the bottom. They can't all be SII donors?

Check the bolts which hold the lo/hi gear together as well - they can
cause terrible rattle/noise

Adrian Redmond

          http://www.channel6.dk/native

	[Attachment  removed, was 1 lines.]	

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 23:27:00 +0200
Subject: Up and running!

After three months rebuild I finally finished assembling the 109" this
weekend. I spent yesterday night filling all the holes with oil, grease,
water, fuel, clutch fluid, and left it to stand overnight on a clean
floor.

This morning - not a drop of fluid on the floor. Could not believe my
eyes.

Then I spent a few minutes bleeding the fuel system (diesel). I don't
bother with bleeding the filters one at a time, I just open the bleed
valves on the dist.pump, then turn the engine over for 10 seconds to
bring fuel into the lines, then work the lift pump manually until fluid
starts spraying out of the dist pump. Then jump in and turn her over.

After three months of total strip down and rebuild, the engine started
first time, and apart from two fuel lines to injectors 1 & 2 which were
a little loose, it ran fine. Whilst it was ticking over, I opened the
bleed valves again to let the last bubbles out.

The timing seems a tad advanced, but she's off to the workshop tomorrow
for a check-up and timing set ready for MOT & emissions test.

But after running for a couple of hours, I can see that there is no air
left in the system, all fluids seem to be holding tight, and I have
given her a run around the field to check the moving parts.

While the chassis and motor are at the garage, I'll paint the 17 body
parts, then next weekend assemble the rest and the job is done. I'll
take some pics and post them next week.

Cheers!

Adrian Redmond

          http://www.channel6.dk/native

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[spamkill: \.da\.uu\.net input: %s]	 Received: from marvin 
(1Cust225.tnt3.everett.wa.da.uu.net [208.251.201.225])

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From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 17:26:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Crank Pulley Removal (2.5 Turbo Dies

Dan,

<< I seem to remember someone using a
wrench against the frame and then the starter motor to do the work >>

This was the method I used for removing the crank pulley on Rover SD1 3500
V8. Scary, but quick & effortless!

Paul

Ex- H.M. Coastguard SIII SWB
"Dougal Mc Landie"
B895 OJT (1984)
(Navy Blue with a Yellow Roof)

 

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[spamkill:  unrecognized home address input: %s]	 Received: from 
mail.rdc1.ab.home.com (ha1.rdc1.ab.wave.home.com [24.64.2.50])
[spamkill:  unrecognized home address input: %s]	 Received: from 
home.com ([24.65.151.191]) by mail.rdc1.ab.home.com
From: Kirk Hillman <kdhillman@home.com>

Subject: Re: Lockright locking diiferentials

Peter,
    Your links were good, I just thought I should mention that KAM DOES,
as far as I know, sell an air actuated version of their locker.  Am I
wrong?  I was just on their sight not too long ago investigating lockers
for myself.  Unfortunately for them, they haven't yet replied to my
price inquires.  I can't very well order the darn things if they don't
tell me how much they cost!

List,
    On a similar thread... has anyone used KAM differentials etc.?  I
only considered them because they are supposed to make units for Rover
axles as opposed to replacing them with Sallys.  My current obsession is
to improve the suspension and traction, thus springs and lockers.  So
what experienced people are there out there that would like to divulge a
little information about their lockers?
    My understanding is that only two companies produce lockers for the
Rover style axle; KAM and some little Australian company (not ARB).  The
second company is only hearsay.  I haven't ever seen an ad or name, just
heard rumors.  I would like to continue to use the rover axles for three
reasons 1) they are cheap, 2) I already have them, 3 )in case of failure
I could put the stock diffs back in very quickly.  I haven't broken a
half shaft yet, but as soon as I put a locker in I am sure to change
that fact.  The thing is, I don't mind replacing them every once in a
while.  As I said, they are cheap, and for me they would be the easiest
solution.
    So, if there is anyone that would like to start up a dialog with me
personally or give me their testimonial about either their suspension or
traction aiding devices, PLEASE email me any time.  I am getting serious
about doing something soon so any thoughts or input would be very
valuable to me.

Cheers,
Kirk Hillman
and "The Banshee Hillman"

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From: IBEdwardp@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 17:48:26 EST
Subject: Re: Bleeding dual master?

In a message dated 99-03-28 15:45:41 EST, you write:

<< Just put a dual circuit master in my 109 SW today and get
 awesome braking on pedal push number two, but zip on push number one.  Bled
 and bled and bled everything--convinced air's out of the lines, though I
 didn't bench-bleed the master prior to starting b/c the dual circuit master
 sits horizontal on the pedal tower anyway. >>

I've had the same experience.  Replaced (or PO replaced) just about everything
in the system and, still, you get some brake on the first pump and solid on
the second. First thought:  If there were air in the system wouldn't you
expect to see little bubbles when you bled into the fruit jar? I get nothing
but brake fluid. Second thought: My drums mike out about 3/1000 oversize and
the cams adjust all the way out. 

There is a pedal adjustment screw on the front of the brake master cyl which
helps some but I still have to double tap for solid braking. I'm about
convinced that new drums will fix my problem, maybe yours too? Wonder what
others think?

And by the way, a few months ago someone mentioned a novel one-person brake
bleeding idea involving a bicycle tube tied off at one end and hose clamped to
the top of the master cyl.  The idea was to partly fill the tube with fluid
and then add enough air to create a couple pounds of positive pressure on top.
Elevate the tube over the master cyl and bleed as usual.  I've bought the tube
but haven't tried it yet. Has anyone else?

Ed Bailey
66 S2A SWB (Millennium Falcon)

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 12:58:43 -1000
Subject: Re: Lockright locking diiferentials

>     Your links were good, I just thought I should mention that KAM DOES,
> as far as I know, sell an air actuated version of their locker.  Am I
> wrong?
No you are right.  I was mentioning the cable locker because it allows a
selectable full lock diff that is cheeper then the air locker and does not
require the added expense of a compressor.
Pete

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 00:09:23 +0100
Subject: Re: Up and running!

wots a clean floor?
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+            
     I !__|  [_]|_\___   
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV 
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 18:22:59 EST
Subject: Re: DAKOTA or nearby--Brit. wanting L/R & any off-roading!

In a message dated 99-03-27 15:27:13 EST, you write:

 I am living inbetween North & South Dakota (West side), and i am staying 
 hear till June, when i will drive down the USA.
 I am British and love L/R's, and i would like to goto or take part in 
 any off-roading, wether trails or competitions.  I would take some 
 photographs and do a write up, which would most likely go in to Land 
 Rover Magazine (LRM).
 I'm also keen to BUY a land rover for the period i am here.
 THANKS >>

I'm no longer living in that area although I wish I were. Don't know of any
organizations or individuals owning and or driving Landies in the area. You
might try Motor Service Company in Rapid City. The owner is an older gentleman
by the name of John Morrison. He has been in business in one location for over
forty years, When Studebaker went under in the early 60s he picked up the
dealership for BMC and he sold their products throught the BL and JRT fiascos.
I think he still sells LRs and Jags on a special order basis and if anyone
knows of a good Landie for sale around there it would be him.

Good luck in your quest.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 18:45:01 -0500
Subject: Wind up.

Nate writes : Does this mean the times I've left 4H engaged only to
disengage it a day or so
later and the Yellow knob pops right up, that there's been enough play in the
tires/road to prevent significant wind up?
 Yes, , it probably also  means that you live in an area like mine, where
our local council resurfaces the roads very other century so that the
natural pot holes provide plenty of opportunity for the release of
transmission stress. Alternatively it could also mean that your tryes are
exactly the same diameter, pressure and load so that there is no wind up
occuring.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 01:43:13 +0200
Subject: Re: Wind up.

Or it could mean that your steering lock is locked, so that you never
find out if you have any wind up...

Adrian Redmond

          http://www.channel6.dk/native

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 18:53:58 -0500
Subject: noisy gear lever

michael, check the bottom end of the gear lever, for  a few years Rover made
some levers with a plastic ball to quieten the noise. Fine, until the
plastic wore, then there is lots of clearance for it to rattle more.
 One easy way to stop the rattle is to change the resonant frequency of the
lever by changing it's weight. Simply remove the gear knob and slide a short
length of rubber hose over the shaft, then replace the knob. This is also a
useful place to carry a spare length of heater hose and it also  keeps the
lever warm in the winter !
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: Dan & Sally Cantwell <dcantwel@cgo.wave.ca>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 18:59:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Dual M/C rebuild

Adrian,
  Thanks for the advice; with what you told me I was able to figure out what
I was doing wrong and correct it.
Much appreciated
Dan.
'61 SII 88 HT Warthog

Adrian Redmond wrote:

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 14:08:34
Subject: Re:  Locking differentials

	The rovers north series sight had a response to a similar question.
Someone posted the web sites of 3 makers of lockers and the address I
believe for JacMac(sp)from Australia.  It may still be up on that site.
>From my memory, which ain't what it used to be, there are four
manufacturers.  Some make a complete new center section with ability to use
20+ splines axles.  The weakness in the stock axle is in the 10 splines
design.  Lockers, however, are supposed to actually increase the
reliability of the stock axle.
	I just found the message on the RN site and the URL's are listed below.

	ARB http://www.arb.com.au/

     	KAM http://www.netcomuk.co.uk/~kamdiffs/difflock.html

     	Maxidrive (no web site) see brochure on my site
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Dunes/7501/Disco.html
     
	McNamara http://home.mira.net/~mcnamara/

	I think you can get a locker from the Detroit boys.  Its not a 
switchable
on demand design and can make an 88 a bit skittish when the axles decide to
their thing on the road.  Supposedly okay off road.  This information is
here say so you might want to check into its reality.

	A couple of months ago LROI did an article on lockers and LSD's.  They
primarily talk about the Kam Diff.  One negative that I saw the actuating
rod going through the case.  A possible source of leakage in wading and dust.

Aloha Peter

     There are also auto lockers and LSDs like Quaiffe. There may be more.

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 19:11:41 EST
Subject: Re: toast

In a message dated 99-03-26 20:37:14 EST, you write:

<< 	It may be because of what you Brits consider toast.  My Mother was an 
army
 nurse stationed in Britain during the big one.  Her most vivid memory of
 the food was the sorry excuse for toast.  It seems the brits, at that time,
 felt toast had to be aged more than a fortnight at room temperature before
 it could be served or eaten.  Very bad form to eat toast warm, and heaven
 forbid if it was hot.  
 	Now onto Marmalade, something only a Brit could love.
 	
 Aloha Peter >>

Personally I like toast, made from fresh bread, its the marmalade I can't
handle. It just seems to reach out for the gag reflex. I think the term
"toast" is used because toast is narmally crisp as in "burned to a ..." in
other words destroyed. Besides what term would you substitute? I don't think
"It's bagel man!" has quite the same cachet.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: "Greg Pavlov" <Greg_Pavlov@racv.com.au>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 11:17:37 +1000
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 18:22:18 -0600
Subject: Bummer! Wheels and Canvas in one day.

Went into town today to have my new shoes mounted on the rover.  Thanks to
all your input, I went with the BFG MT 235/85/16.

My local tire shop (Tires Plus, (chain))  told me that none of my wheels
could be balanced and so they did not.

I find this a little unusual as I had a nice smooth ride with my old tires
and now I am like a quarter fed bed in a cheap hotel.  I had bad rims years
ago and I knew that I replaced two of them oh say 8 -9 years ago.

So are these 16 inch rims repairable?  

You would think the the tire joe would have may a effort to balance them
somewhat so they would be even close.

On the way home, big wind and then I hear the flapping...Big tear in my 3/4
canvas for the 109.  Aaacck.  Tore across the top, transvere, about 6 inches
in front of the rear hoop.  Tore full width across the top(not the side
though).  Fortunately I live in Duluth, home of the legendary Duluth Pack.
They do great canvas work (make the best canoe packs and Baker's tents in
the world)  I am suppose to leave on a camping trip on Wednesday thus I hope
they can do a patch job tomorrow.  My canvas is no stranger to patches and
canvas workers but the price for replacements likens a patch on the canvas
to a scar on a Harley biker.

cwolfe

"I like the taste of beer"  Dylan Thomas (at his best)

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[spamkill:  hostnames start w/letter input: %s]	 Received: from 
nathan.enteract.com (dscheidt@207.229.143.6)
From: David Scheidt <dscheidt@enteract.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 18:38:49 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Bummer! Wheels and Canvas in one day.:

On Sun, 28 Mar 1999, Wolfe, Charles wrote:

:My local tire shop (Tires Plus, (chain))  told me that none of my wheels
:could be balanced and so they did not.

Very likely, they have equipment that doesn't deal with the huge center 
that Rover wheels have.  I had the shop that put the tires on my Land-Rover
tell me the same thing.  I got a truck garage to do them.  Worth a shot.
:
:On the way home, big wind and then I hear the flapping...Big tear in my 3/4
:canvas for the 109.  Aaacck.  Tore across the top, transvere, about 6 inches
:in front of the rear hoop.  Tore full width across the top(not the side
:though).  Fortunately I live in Duluth, home of the legendary Duluth Pack.

that is exactly where my canvas failed.  I just used duct tape...

:canvas workers but the price for replacements likens a patch on the canvas
:to a scar on a Harley biker.

See what your favorite supplier in England wants for one.  I got one, plus
door tops, plus some other random small things, shipped, for almost a $100
bucks less than any us supplier wanted for just the canvas.

David

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From: "david hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 20:59:05 -0600
Subject: Items for Sale

Just in case any of you might have missed it... the Rovers North "Wanted
Ads" include:

1. a "loaded" Series vehicle for $25,000 - no further description is given.

2. a brand new Superwinch overdrive for $1,995.

Good luck at those prices.

David Hope
64 llA  Arthur Daley special

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 17:25:12 -1000
Subject: dual batteries and fuel tanks

Aloha everyone.
I am researching installing dual batteries and dual fuel tanks into my SWB
neg ground IIa.
As I am thinking of placing the second fuel tank under the left seat with a
similar setup as the stock rh tank I need to find a place for the second
bat.  Anyone designed a way to place it under the hood?
As for the tanks, I have seen in some of the parts catalogs a dual line
valve but am wondering if anyone has found another method of plumbing the
tanks.
Also, I want to use the standard fill tube set up placed on the left side
for the new tank, anyone's parts vehicle have these items and willing to
sell?

Mahalo
Pete

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From: "Pietila, Rod L [IBM GSA]" <RPietila@qitgbsd2.telstra.com.au>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 12:23:12 +1000
Subject: SIII Brake Problem

> Hi
> The brakes on my SIII 109 are non-existant after driving for a while. At
> startup they a fine with a nice firm pedal and stay that way for a while.
> After driving for 45 minutes or more, they are non-existant and require a
> double pump.

The next day the brakes are fine again until I drive for awhile, then they
problem re-appears.

> Any Ideas ?
> Rod
> startup they a fine with a nice firm pedal and stay that way for a while.
> After driving for 45 minutes or more, they are non-existant and require a

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 07:33:18 +0200
Subject: Re: Wind up.

Bill wrote;

> transmission stress. Alternatively it could also mean that your tryes are
> exactly the same diameter, pressure and load so that there is no wind up
> occuring.

It'd also mean some _very_ interesting running gear geometry (so 
the rear would follow exactly the same path as the front during 
cornering), or that Nat drives around exactly the same amount of 
RH and LH corners!

All the best,

Andy

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 07:38:48 +0200
Subject: Re: Noisy gearlever

John wrote re: gearlevers...

> If  it is a series 111 then it will have a plastic ball and the lever
> will need to be replaced

2 out of 3 Series III's I've had the gearlever off had the O ring fitted 
in a groove at the base of the lever as per SII and IIa so don't give 
up hope.

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 08:09:27 +0200
Subject: Re: Problem with disengaging 4wd

With reference to the whine from the transfer case...

Cheaper than changing gears may be changing to a fully synthetic 
oil.  It slightly reduced the whine from my LT95 transfer 'box when 
cold and now the whine does not get worse as the oil gets hot.

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

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From: Charles Irvin <cirvin1258@juno.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 22:41:20 -0800
Subject: Re: dual batteries and fuel tanks

My 109 appears to have had twin batteries at one time, but after finding
the VW steering box, who knows what was used as a battery box!

I have a couple of steel L-brackets in the engine bay, on the L.H. inner
fender panel. Can't imagine what else they could be used for, except
either A. an ARB compressor, or B. a second battery tray. Early 109
diesels had twin 6-volt batteries - one in the usual spot, the other
under the center seat. I have no battery box there, so perhaps it was
removed (its a '62, so I'd guess it was considered an early truck), or,
it had a second box in the engine bay? Who knows...

Dual fuel tanks: I'm also installing a second tank: the plumbing is
there, the mountings are there, and I have a new tank - perhaps while I'm
putting more patches on the chassis...speaking of which - I put the new
R.H. bumper iron on this afternoon! Don't know how well I welded
everything, but I tried kicking it loose, and nearly knocked the truck
off the jackstands!

Charles
(maybe I should rename my truck Patches!)

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From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Mon, 29 Mar 1999 10:07:09 +0200
Subject: Re: Wind up.

At 18:45 1999-03-28 -0500, you wrote:
>Nate writes : Does this mean the times I've left 4H engaged only to
>disengage it a day or so
>later and the Yellow knob pops right up, that there's been enough play in the
>tires/road to prevent significant wind up?

My yellow knob also jumps up directly but 4wd is still engaged for a few
tenths of meters before it releases with a clonk (from the front axle). Is
this still the normal behaviour due to wind up?

Peter

Peter Thoren 
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Member #1379 Swedish Land Rover Club
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
Sweden
phone/fax +46 18 39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

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From: Marc Rengers <mr@b4m.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 10:14:29 +0200
Subject: Re: Noisy gearlever

>If your 109 is a series 11 or 11a there is a rubber O ring on the ball
>at the bottom of the gear lever, replace it.
>If  it is a series 111 then it will have a plastic ball and the lever
>will
>need to be replaced

According to the parts manual of the series 3 there's a rubber 'O'-ring 
at the bottom. I think the later (or the last ones) had the plastic 
ball.....

Marc Rengers                                                LRCH-member
Westeremden, Holland
mr@b4m.com (marc@fileserver.minerva.fk.hanze.nl)
Systemsmanager Academie Minerva Groningen

0596-551334 (home)
050-3666761 (work)
06-51185046 (GSM)

http://www.minerva.fk.hanze.nl/landrover/index.html

      +------_                                --_         
      |____|__\___                    ________|__\___     
      | _  |   |_ |}                  |  _    |   |_ |}   
      "(_)"""""(_)"                   ""(_)"""""""(_)"
 1978 SIII 88" 2.25 diesel       1968  109"  SIIa 2.25 petrol
     reg. 47-DB-13                     reg. unknown    
      marine blue                 green (15 layers of paint)
    The running one                  The not running one

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 09:15:21 +0000
Subject: Re: toast

>        Now onto Marmalade, something only a Brit could love.

Because only Brits can make it.Properly.

Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 10:58:18 +0200
Subject: Re: Wind up.

> tenths of meters before it releases with a clonk (from the front axle). Is
> this still the normal behaviour due to wind up?

Yes.

Well...  Normally it is worse.  Sounds like yours is working well!

All the best,
^O
Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

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